Manicuring

Introduction

• Long polished nails were a mark of

distinction between aristocrats and
laborers
• Luxury for very few
• The biggest/fastest growing services in
salon
Manicure

• Latin
• Manus = hand
• Cura = care
• Artful treatment and care of the hands
and nails
Purpose of Manicures

• Improve the appearance of the hands and

their nails
Why Study Manicuring?
– (Highlight the bullet points)
• Knowledge of the structure of the nail
• Knowledge of the composition of the
cosmetics used
• Ability to give a manicure/pedicure
efficiently and effectively
• Ability to care for the client’s manicuring
problems or concerns
• Knowledge to be able to distinguish
between disorders that may be treated in
the salon and those diseases that must be
treated by a physician
• A thorough awareness of the procedures
involved in sanitation and disinfection
Adhere to State and
Government Regulations
• Scope of Practice (SOP)
– List of services legally allowed to perform in
your state
• May lose license if illegal services are
performed
• Legally liable if client is injured
Occupational Safety and Health
Administration
• Provides guidelines for protecting
cosmetologists from chemicals that can
affect your health
• Hypersensitivity reactions
• OSHA Hazard Communication Standard
requires ventilation for chemical services
• Personal protective equipment (PPE)
Work with Nail Technology
Tools
• Equipment:
– Permanent tools used
– Do not need to be replaced unless not in good
repair
– “Did You Know” Boxes
– Highlight name of each piece of equipment
Disinfection Container

• Large enough to hold enough liquid to

cover several service sets
– (sets of tools to be used in a service)
• After removed from container must be
rinsed dried and stored properly
• Disinfectants must NEVER touch skin!
• Use tongs or tweezers to remove
• Wear gloves!!!!
• Can be irritating to skin
Paraffin

• Petroleum byproduct
• Sealing properties
• Added for extra charge
Ventilation System
• Chemicals can affect a worker’s health
• Dust, odors and vapors can affect
breathing and respiratory health
• Symptoms are not seem right away
– Months/years to see/feel affects
• Fans/windows not a ventilation system
• Breathing zone – 2 foot sphere around
head/face
• Figure 25 – 11a
– Inside a source-capture ventilation system
• Figure 25 – 11b
– Portable 2 stage carbon filter ventilation
system
Implements
• Must be disinfected, sanitized or disposed
of after use
• Small enough to fit into a disinfectant
container
• PP 857 – 859
• “Did You Know” Boxes – PP 856, 858
• State Regulatory Alert – PP 856
Sanitation for Implements

A. Wash with soap and warm water, rinse

B. Metal implements must be completely
immersed in container filled with an
approved disinfectant. (Follow
manufacturers’ instructions for required time).
C. Rinse and dry thoroughly with clean
towels
D. Store Properly - Follow state regulations
for storage
• Highlight name of each piece of equipment
• Multiuse – reusable – can be properly
cleansed and disinfected after use
• Single-use – disposable – cannot be
cleaned and disinfected – must be thrown
out
Multiuse Implements
• Metal pusher – used to gently scrape
cuticle tissue from natural nail plate
• Improper/careless use can cause
microscopic trauma or injury
• Microtrauma – tiny, often unseen
openings in the skin – leads to infection
• Nail nippers – used to carefully trim away
DEAD skin around the nail
Single-use Implements

• Wooden pusher
– Used to remove cuticle tissue from nail plate
– To clean under free edge
– -to apply products
Materials

• Highlight name of each material

• Supplies used that must be replaced for
each client
• PP 859 – 861
• Caution Box – PP 861
• Gloves
– PPE – personal protection equipment
– Protect from exposure to microbes
– OSHA recommends nitrile gloves for better
protection from chemicals
Abrasive Files

• Grit – the roughness or smoothness of the

file
• Lower the number the rougher the grit
and the more aggressive its action
• The higher the number the more smooth
• Lower grit abrasives
– Less than 180 grit
– Aggressive - quickly reduce thickness of any
surface
– Produce deeper & more visible scratches
– Use with caution
• File prepping – rub another file across the
edge to remove sharp edge
• Medium grit files
– 150 – 180 grit
– 180 grit used to shorten and shape natural
nails
• Fine grit
– 240 grit and higher
– designed for buffing, polishing
– Removing very fine scratches
• 2 way or 3 way buffer
– Creates shine
Professional Nail Products

• Know how to properly use

• Know what ingredients
• What it does
• Proper storage
• Remove from containers correctly
• Highlight name of each product
• Soap
– Used to clean cosmetologist’s & client’s hands
– Infection control tool during pre-service hand
washing procedure
• Acetone – colorless, inflammable liquid,
miscible with water
• OSHA – DO NOT pour used chemicals
– down drain
– Throw on ground
• Nail Creams
– Barrier products
– Designed to seal & hold subdermal moisture
• Nail Oils
– Designed to absorb into nail plate
– Increase flexibility
– Soften and moisturize
• Cuticle removers
– Deigned to loosen and dissolve dead tissue on
the nail plate
– High pH value – caustic
– irritating to the skin
– 2 - 5% sodium or potassium hydroxide
– Added glycerin
– Used according to manufacture's directions!!!
• Nail bleach
– Designed to apply to nail plate/under free
edge
– Remove yellow surface discolorations or stains
– Contain hydrogen peroxide
– Wear gloves while bleaching nails
• Gel polish
– Lasts 10 – 21 days
– Natural nails
• Base Coat
– Creates colorless layer
– Helps prevent polish from yellowing or
discoloring nails
• Nail hardeners
– Improve surface hardness or durability of
weak/thin nails
• Protein hardener
– Clear polish and hardener
– Large molecules that cannot absorb into nail
plate
• Other nail hardeners
– Contain reinforcing fibers (nylon)
• Hardener ingredients
– methlylene glycol creates bridges or crosslinks
between keratin strands
– Makes nail plate stiffer
– More resistant to bending & breaking
– Non-irritating to skin
– Useful for thin weak nail plates
– If signs of excessive brittleness or splitting,
discolorations, of nail bed or adverse (bad)
reactions stop using
Learn the Necessary
Components to Perform the
Basic Manicure
• Basic manicure is the foundation of all nail
technology services
• Procedure should take 30 – 40 minutes
• 3 part procedure
– Pre-service
– Service
– Post-service
Hand Washing

• Prevent the spread of communicable

disease
• Before and after each client
• Clients wash too
• “Did You Know” Box – PP 867
The Manicure Table

• Messy table creates a bad impression

• Neat table will help client feel confident
about your abilities
• Follow all rules of sanitation and
disinfection
• Do not ask client to sit at dirty table
• PP 881 - 882
Client Consultation
• Talk to the client
• Complete a client health record and
service and product card
• Discuss client’s general health, lifestyle,
needs, and services to be offered
• Use your knowledge to select the most
appropriate service
• “Focus on” – PP 868
• Analysis:
– Information-gathering
– Ask questions
– Touch the skin, nails – educate the client
• Recommendations:
– Explain benefits and results of the recommended
service (s)
– Home care products and how to use
Portray yourself in a professional
manner
• Focus on client
• Look directly at client while speaking in a
tone that demonstrates integrity and
confidence
• Support your recommendations with facts
and information
• Be friendly and helpful
Discussing client’s general health

• Diabetic
– Carefully file and push Pterygium
– NEVER nip cuticles
– Heal slowly easily get infections
– Damage can be deadly if skin is cut or scrapped
• Arthritis - Hands held gently
• Circulatory disease – massage very carefully
if at all
• (Write in on PP 868)
• Contraindicated – avoiding a procedure or
condition that may produce undesirable
side effects
• Contraindication – condition that requires
avoiding certain treatments, procedures to
prevent undesirable effects
Choosing a nail shape

• Shape of client’s hands

• Length of fingers
• Shape of cuticles
– Nails should be shaped to mirror the shape of
the cuticle
• Type of work client does
– People who work with their hands require
shorter nail length
• Square nail
– Straight across the free edge
– No rounding at edges
• Round nail
– Slightly tapered
– Extend just a bit past the tip of the finger
– Common choice for men
• Oval nail
– Ideal shape
• Pointed nail
– Thin delicate nail
– Tapered somewhat longer than usual to enhance the
slender appearance of the hand
• Squoval nail
– Extend only slightly past fingertip
– Nail tip rounded off
– Square nail with ends rounded
Handling Blood During a
Manicure (write in on PP 889)
1. Put on gloves
2. Apply Pressure
3. Stanch Bleeding
4. Complete service
5. Discard used materials
6. Clean table and disinfect implements
7. Remove gloves and wash hands
Finishing the nails

• Nail strengthener
• Base coat
• Colored polish
• Top coat
Basic Manicure Procedure

• Pre-service sanitation –
– PP 880 - 883
• Basic Manicure Procedure –
– PP 886 - 889
• Post-service procedures –
– PP 884 - 885
Men’s Manicure

• Conservative
• Square or round shape
• Clear matte or dull finish
Hand and Arm Massage

• Keeps the hands flexible

• Well-groomed
• Smooth
• PP 890 - 892
General Movements

• Effleurage
– Strokes in which hands glide over an area of
the body
• Petrissage
– Kneading is lifting, squeezing and pressing the
tissue
• Tapotement
– Rapid tapping or striking motions
• Vibration
– Continuous shaking movement
• Friction
– Various strokes that press 1 layer of tissue
over another (deep rubbing)
• Purpose of massage is inducement of
relaxation
• Firm but gentle and slow rhythmic
movement
Spa Manicure (PP 873 – 874)

• Relaxing massage
• Exfoliation
• Check for allergies
• Distinctive names that describe the
treatment
• “Did You Know” PP 873
• Theme Manicures
• Waterless manicures
Aromatherapy

• 1870’s
• Essential oils
• Requires study and training
Paraffin Wax Manicure (PP 875-877)

• Traps moisture
• Heat opens pores
• Exfoliates dead skin cells
• Increases blood circulation
• Petroleum by product
– Sealing properties
– Holds moisture
• 125 ° - 130 °
• Use only approved heaters
• Will not harm artificial or natural nails
• Plastic bag application
• Cheesecloth application
• Single-use commercial gloves
Nail Art

• PP 877 – 878
• French Manicure
• Smile Line
• Color fading
• Color blocking
• Marbleizing
French Manicure

• Free edge is polished, tipped or sculpted

in an opaque color
– Tropical – more bold colors on free edge
Hot Oil/ Conditioning Oil
Manicure (write on PP 879)
– Heated creams/oils
– Beneficial for ridged or brittle nails
– Nail biters –keeps cuticles soft
Nail Problems (write on PP 883)

• Hangnails – loose fringe of skin left

around nail
• Callus – thickened skin – softened with
creams and lotions
• Stains – may be bleached or using slightly
dampening pumice powder to buff
(write PP 877)

• Booth Manicure
– Given while another service is given
• Electric Manicure
– Portable device operated by a small motor
– Read directions and receive training before
using!