RECENT ADVANCES IN

LIPSTICKS
 Formula for Red Lipstick:
• Carnauba wax 3
• Ozekerite 5
• Ceresin 3
• Beeswax 11
• Cetyl alcohol 4
• Petrolatum 2
• Lanolin 3
• Castor oil 45
• Oleyl alcohol 7
• Mineral oil 1
• Dimethicone 0.2
• Titanium dioxide 1
• Aluminum lake D & C Red #28 4
• Cosmetic Red Iron 2
• Dibromofluorescein 3.5
• D&C Red No. 27
• Bismuth oxychloride 3
• Propyl gallate 0.1
• Flavor & perfume
 But… Is your favorite lipstick safe for
you???
• A recent study by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) & US consumer
group Campaign For Safe Cosmetics found that over 400 shades of popular
lipstick on the market contain trace amounts of LEAD.

• Five lipsticks made by L’Oreal and Maybelline ranked among the top 10
worst offenders.

• The levels of lead varied from 0.03 to 0.65 ppm.

One third of the lipsticks containing lead exceeded the
0.1ppm limit set by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration
for lead in lipsticks.

• The higher the lead content, the greater the chance of

causing cancer.
Which lipsticks contain lead most?
Long lasting and High staining lipsticks which are supposed to stay longer. If
your lipstick stays longer, it is because of the higher content of lead.

Here is the test you can do yourself:

1. Put some lipstick on your hand.
2. Use a Gold ring to scratch on the lipstick.
3. If the lipstick color changes to black the
you know the lipstick contains lead.
 Breath Refreshing Lipstick
Patent No.: US 683475 B1
• A lipstick is provided for freshening the breath & reducing oral malodor.
• Additional ingredients
1.Free menthol
2.Bound menthol
3.Anethol
4.Water
5.Antibacterial agent.[e.g. zinc salts, quaternary
ammonium salts, chlorinated hydrocarbons etc.]
• Free menthol combined with bound menthol substances serve as the
actives.
• Subsequent to application of lipstick the free menthol is released to the oral
cavity. As free menthol concentration within the lipstick decreases bound
menthol begins to release its menthol component, therefore extending the
activity period.
• Free menthol :
Uncomplexed, unbound, non-encapsulated Menthol.
Conc. Range : 0.01% to 2%
• Bound menthol :
Combination of free menthol complexed or encapsulated by binding agent.
Conc. Range: 0.2% to 2%

• Suitable complexing agents include: Starch (cyclodextrin, zeolites, clays),

modified starch, synthetic polymers, copolymers, polyvinyl alcohol, acrylates
or vegetable gums, gelatin, carrageenan gum.

• Small amounts of water used in formulation are useful as solubilizing

systems for the menthol so that it may be delivered more readily to the oral
cavity.
Also useful for releasing menthol from bound menthol as
complexing agent cyclodextrin & polyvinyl alcohol are soluble in water.

• Brands : L'Oreal Paris.

 Nonsweating Lipstick
Patent No.: US 583 407
• What is sweating of lipstick?

Oils on the surface of the lipstick.

• It occurs due to inferior

binding capacity of wax
network or high oil content
causing super saturation.
Increase in temperature
causes disturbances in
wax-oil network.
• What makes a lipstick sweat free?

• It has been discovered that adding gelling agent to the lipstick gels the
emollient oils making lipstick sweat free or sweat resistant for significant
period of time at high temperature & relative humidity.

• Concentration Range: 2 to 8%

• Suitable gelling agents: hydrophobic silicates, hydrophobic clays,

propylene carbonate, ethyl cellulose etc.

• High amount of emollient oils moisturizes lips &conditioned them as well.

Emollient conc. up to 40 to 60% is used.
 Sunscreen Lipstick
Patent No. : US 0085994 A1
• Critical UVA-protecting active ingredients are added to shield lips while providing
beautiful color.

• Active ingredients that provide reliable UVA protection include:

1.Avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane)
2.Titanium dioxide
3.Zinc Oxide
4.Aminobenzoic acid
5.Octocrylene
6.Oxybenzone
7.Trolamine salicylate

• Sunscreen Lipstick Brands:

Stila: spf25 , L'Oreal Paris: spf 15,
Covergirl: spf 15, Revlon: spf 15,
Nivea: spf 25 , Paula’s Choice:spf15
 Paula’s Choice Invisible Shade
• Lightweight creamy texture imparts sheer color
and broad-spectrum sun protection.

• Includes stabilized avobenzone for reliable 

UVA protection with SPF 15.

• Keeps your lips soft and protected from the

sun's aging rays.

• The Invisible shade is colorless and may be

worn under any lipstick.

• 100% fragrance- and flavor-free.

 Liquid lipstick
Patent No. : US2230063

• Copolymer having an acrylate /methacrylate component, an N-substituted

acrylamide component, & an unsaturated carboxylic acid component.
• Cellulose material
• Alcohol
• Additional additives such as fragrance & botanical extracts may also be
added.
Composition for red liquid lipstick color:

Formula Percentage
1.Isostearyl alcohol 3.20
2.Silica 1.50
3.Ethanol 81.37
4.Ethyl cellulose 0.50
5.Acrylate/ octylacrylamide copolymer 4.50
6.PPG 20 methyl glucose ether 4.10
7.Phyto desensitizer 1.00
(botanical extract mixture)
8.Fragrance (naturalizer #6633) 1.20
9.Permashade WP10s 0.60
10.Iron oxide CG 140 0.82
11.DC Red #28 Aluminium Lake C14-6623 0.30
12.DC Red #33 Aluminium Lake C17-7744 0.07
13.DC yellow #5 Aluminium Lake C69-7724 0.21
14.DC Red #7 C19-031 0.63
DIFFERENT TYPES OF APPLICATORS USED FOR LIQUID
LIPSTICKS
LUSH EMOTIONAL BRILLIANCE !!!
[ Liquid Lipstick Swatches ]
 Vitamin Lipstick
Patent No.: US 6517818
Ingredients:
1.Alpha – Tocopherol Ester: (tocopherol succinate/ oleate/ linolate/
propionate)
2.Cellulose derivatives
3.Phospholipid
4.Polymers or copolymers
5.Oil soluble UVB filters: (benzoic acid ester; cinnamic acid esters,
3-butyl methoxybenzophenone, 3-benzylidene camphor)
6.Mineral salts: (Na, K, Ca, P, Fe, I, Cu, Co, Mo and Zn)
7.Other additives: Vitamin A, dried fat soluble carrot extract,
beta carotene, paprika LS extract, lithospermum extract.
8.Fragrance & Flavor.
• The lipstick contains an outer complex comprised of a cellulose derivative,
a phospholipid and an alpha- tocopherol ester.

• The addition complexes of tocopherol with phospholipid and cellulose

derivatives are dissolved by humidity and, together with the settled
tocopherols, are taken in by the body of the user wherein the body can
process the tocopherol as a vitamin.

• Alpha-tocopherol acetate has a excellent stability at the lipstick

processing temperature which, due to the melting of the waxes,
ranges between 70 and 80 degree C.
Formula:

Ingredients Percentage
Isopropyl palmitate 15.0
Candellia wax 7
Riz wax 3
Carnauba wax 4.5
Beeswax 9
Lanoline 10
Castor oil 38
Jojoba oil 4
Alpha.-tocopherol/cellulose
complex with phosphatidylcholine
Glycerol 5
Food flavoring 0.5
Fragrances 0.5
 Wax Free Transparent lipstick
Patent No.: US6468510
Ingredients
1.Tackiness agent(lipophilic ) 30 to 50 %
2.Oil or ester 30 to 50 %
3.Firming or bulking agent 0.01 to 5 %
4.Transparent oil- gelatinizing agent 0.5 to 10 %
5.Color pigments (minimum)
6.Fragrance & flavor

Dibenzyl monosorbitol acetate (DBMSA) (tackiness agent) is

blended with an alkylbenzoate-containing composition & a
glycerol trioctanoate composition to form a transparent base, and then a red
pigment is added & the resulting reduced transparency
product is poured into a lipstick mold. The purpose of this
composition is to utilize DBMSA as a cosmetic base.
NEW REVLON JUST STAIN

• It’s a pampering balm fused with a lightweight lipstain

in a crayon.

• Just Balm Stain gives softer, smoother lips with a color

that lasts hour after hour.

• Gives instant moisturizing of lips with a mild stain &

color.

• Easy to use, no sharpener required .

 WATER BASED LIPSTICK
PATENT NO.US 4795631
Original Assignee: Chesebrough-Pond's, Inc.
• Flexible, long-wearing, water-resistant lip-films are formed from water-
based compositions comprising
1. Water
2. an alkali-dispersible or alkali soluble, water-insoluble thermoplastic film
forming resin;
3. a volatile base;
4. and a water-insoluble plasticizer.
• Additionally comprise of one or more cosmetically acceptable colorants.
• The film-forming resin is a copolymer comprising two or more monomers
selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid,
acrylamide, and esters of acrylic and methacrylic acid.
• The volatile base is ammonium hydroxide.
• The water insoluble plasticizer comprises one or more materials selected
from the group consisting of simple esters of C.
 LIP TINT PENS
• Colour obtained without the sticky
opaqueness of traditional lipsticks.

• The formula is water based and permeates

the upper layers of the lips to create non-
transferable layers of colour.
 COSMETIC APPLICATOR
US PATENT NO. 4,611,611
• A lipstick applicator constructed of a piece of paper folded
over on itself to form two flaps wherein an upper and lower
lip print of lip cosmetic is deposited on the facing surfaces of
the flaps for applying the lip cosmetic by reverse-folding the
flaps, inserting them into the mouth, fold first, and
compressing the lips against them.
• A proprietary technology, displays
the lip color through a transparent
layer of film preserving the sample.

• Patented amorphous rendition

does not chemically alter the
lipstick formula or color.

• Resistant to high pressure and

temperatures.
 US PATENT NO. 5776441
Original Assignee: Avon Products, Inc.
• A lip treatment containing a bioyeast ingredient, such as a live
yeast cell derivative, and a suitable carrier.
• The live yeast cell derivative is produced by lysing and
concentrating the cell contents of yeast cells subjected to an
extended period of non-lethal stress.
• The lip treatment rapidly moisturizes, smoothes, and heals
the lips, and provides for rapid exfoliation of chapped cells.
• It may further comprise of about 75% of moisturizer or about
0.60% of a healing agent or 15.0% of an occlusive wax.
• The base is about 76% by weight and yeast cell protoplasm is
about 0.5% by weight.
 MEDICATED LIPSTICK
Medicated lipstick that is
gentle on sensitive lips. It is
a flavor-free, fragrance-free
"natural" type.
Active ingredients: Tocopheryl
acetate (Vitamin E Acetic ester) ,
aloe extract, Purified lanolin,
Dibutylhydroxytoluene
• Suitable drug candidates for
medicated lipsticks are local
acting agents including
soothing, anti-irritant agent,
skin protectant, keratolytic
agent, steroids, antibiotics,
and anti-inflammatory
agents.
 TRIPLE CORE LIPSTICK

• An caring core makes the lips soft,

hydrated and protected.

• A colour core delivers high impact

lustrous colour.

• High gloss ingredients and light-

reflective microcrystal’s .
GUESS???
NEON LIPSTICK

Vibrant colour by day

transforms to neon glow
under UV light for the
ultimate club look! 
MOOD
Lipsticks
• The lipstick is made with weak acid pigments that have a
conjugate base form with a strikingly different color.

• When the pigment undergoes an neutralization reaction on

the surface of the skin, there's a sharp change in the
structure of the electron cloud.

• This sharply changes the wavelengths of light that the

pigment absorbs, and the color of the lipstick changes.
 ANTI-AGING LIPSTICK
• There’s a small teardrop of
“Anti-Aging Serum” that runs
through the middle of the
lipstick.
• Improve the look of lips by
acting as a lip plumping lipstick
thereby minimizing any lines.
• Promote cell turnover and
collagen production.
• The serum core has ingredients
like ProXalyne, Collagen,
Hyaluronic spheres and
Glycerin, all designed to smooth
out lines and plump up lips.
 Ingredient List: LIP LACQUER
• POLYBUTENE,
• OLEYL ALCOHOL,
• RICINUS COMMUNIS OIL,
• POLYETHYLENE
• VITIS VINIFERA
• HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL,
• SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE,
• MICA,
• TOCOPHERYL ACETATE,
• GLYCERYL LINOLEATE,
• PROPYLPARABEN,
• RETINYL PALMITATE,
• GLYCERYL LINOLENATE,
• BHT,
• SILICA,
• TIN OXIDE,
• TALC,
• TOCOPHEROL
 VEGAN LIPSTICKS
• Contains no harsh chemicals or animal derivatives.
• FD&C dye free, petroleum-free.
• Their colors are made from iron oxides, leaving out the FD&C dyes.
• FORMULA:
1. Castor Seed Oil*
2. Capric Triglyceride
3. Shea Butter
4. (Cocoa) Seed Butter*
5. Ozokerite Wax
6. Candelilla Wax
7. Carnauba Wax*
8. Orange Peel Oil*
9. Tocopherol
May also contain mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, pigment violet, tin oxide.
(*) denotes ingredient is certified organic.
 HERBAL LIPSTICKS

FORMULA:
• Castor oil
• Paraffin wax
• Beeswax
• Ripe fruit powder of
shikakai
• Beet root juice
• Orange essence
• Lemon juice
• Vanilla essence
• Symphytum Officinale (Comfrey) – The herb contains
allantoin.

• Plantago Ovata Seed – Has astringent properties.

• Sambucus Nigra Seed – Gives protection from free radicals,

soothing, anti-inflammatory activity as well as extra cellular
matrix reinforcement.
LIPSTICK REMIX- MAKEOVER
FOR YOUR LIPSTICK

MIX

MELT

MOULD
THANK YOU