Professional Documents
Culture Documents
CHAPTER 8
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS AND SAUCES
• French word for stock is fond, meaning “foundation” or
“base.”
– This “foundation” indicates the importance of stocks.
– The ability to prepare good stocks is the most basic of
all culinary skills.
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
• Stock: A clear, thin unthickened liquid flavored by
soluble substances extracted from:
– Meat, poultry, or fish
– Meat, poultry, or fish bones
– Vegetables
– Seasonings
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
INGREDIENTS
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)
Bones
The kinds of bones used determine the kind of stock:
• Chicken stock: made from
chicken bones.
• White stock: made from beef
or veal bones.
• Fish stock: made from fish
bones and trimmings left over
after filleting.
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)
Bones (cont’d)
•Connective tissues (called collagen) break down and form
gelatin. This gives body to a stock.
•A well-made stock thickens or even solidifies when chilled.
•Cartilage is the best source of gelatin in bones.
•Younger animals have more cartilage than mature animals
•Bones with lots of cartilage, used in stock-making:
– Knuckle bones
– Neck bones
– Shank bones
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)
Meat
• Rarely used in stock-making because of its cost.
• Chicken hearts and gizzards are often used in chicken
stock.
• Broth is a flavorable liquid produced as a result of
simmering meat or poultry.
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)
Mirepoix
• Mirepoix : A combination of onions, carrots, and
celery:
– White mirepoix: parsnips are
sometimes substituted for carrots.
– Used when it is necessary to keep
the stock as colorless as possible.
– Usually for white beef or veal stock
and fish stock.
– Celery root may be substituted for
celery.
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)
Acid Products
• Acids help dissolve connective tissues.
• Tomato products contribute flavor and some acid to
brown stocks.
– Too much tomato can make the stock cloudy.
• Wine is occasionally used, especially for fish stocks. Its
flavor contribution is probably more important than its
acidity.
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)
Seasonings and Spices
•Salt is usually not added as stocks are
reduced, concentrated, and combined
with other ingredients.
•Herbs and spices are usually tied in a
cheesecloth bag called a sachet
d’épices (French for “spice bag”).
•The sachet is tied by a string to the
handle of the stockpot so it can be
removed easily at any time.
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)
Seasonings and Spices (cont’d)
– The following seasonings, in varying quantities, are
commonly used for stocks:
• Thyme
• Parsley stems
• Bay leaves
• Cloves, whole
• Peppercorns
• Garlic (optional)
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)
Ingredient Proportions
– Cooks use ratios to help them remember the basic
proportions, as follows:
• Bones: 80 percent
• Mirepoix: 10 percent
• Water: 100 percent
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)
Ingredients for Vegetable
Stocks
• The basic ingredients for
vegetable stocks are:
– Vegetables
– Herbs and spices
– Water
– Wine (sometimes)
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
PROCEDURES
Blanching Bones
• The purpose of blanching bones is to rid them of the
impurities that cause cloudiness.
• The bones of young animals, especially veal and
chicken, are highest in impurities that cloud and discolor
stocks.
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
PROCEDURE
PREPARING WHITE STOCK
Place the
bones in a
Step stockpot and
1 cover with cold
water.
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
PROCEDURE
PREPARING WHITE STOCK (CONT’D)
Add white
mirepoix to the
Step pot.
3
Add a sachet
d’épices. Tie the
Step sachet to the
pot handle so it
4 may be
retrieved easily.
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
PROCEDURE
PREPARING BROWN STOCK
Roast the bones
in a moderately
Step hot oven until
well browned.
1
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
PROCEDURE
PREPARING BROWN STOCK (CONT’D)
Brown the
mirepoix. Add
Step the browned
3 mirepoix to the
stockpot.
Deglaze the
roasting pan
Step with water.
4 Add the liquid
to the
stockpot.
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
PROCEDURE
PREPARING BROWN STOCK (CONT’D)
Simmer slowly
for 8 hours.
Step
5
Strain the
stock through
Step a china cap
6 lined with
cheesecloth.
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
PROCEDURE
PREPARING FISH STOCK
Sweat the
mirepoix and
Step fish bones in
1 butter.
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
PROCEDURE
PREPARING FISH STOCK (CON’T)
Skim as
necessary to
Step remove scum.
3
Strain through
a china cap
Step lined with
4 cheesecloth
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
PROCEDURES (CONT’D)
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
REDUCTIONS AND GLAZES
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS
CONVENIENCE BASES
• Judging Quality
– Bases vary greatly in quality. The best ones are
composed mainly of meat extracts.
– Many bases are made primarily from salt.
– Read the list of ingredients.
• Using Bases
– Using bases requires taste and judgment.
• Always taste and evaluate as you cook.
– There is no substitute for a well-made stock.
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
SAUCES
UNDERSTANDING SAUCES
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
SAUCES
UNDERSTANDING SAUCES (CONT’D)
The Structure of Sauces
• The major sauces are
made of three kinds of
ingredients:
– A liquid, the body of
the sauce
– A thickening agent
– Additional seasoning
and flavoring
ingredients
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
SAUCES
UNDERSTANDING SAUCES (CONT’D)
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS AND SAUCES
UNDERSTANDING SAUCES (CONT’D)
Thickeners
– Roux : A cooked mixture of equal parts by weight of fat and
flour.
– Beurre manié : A mixture of equal parts soft, raw butter and
flour worked together to form a smooth paste.
– Liaison : A mixture of egg yolks and cream, used to enrich
and lightly thicken a sauce or other liquid.
Roux Liaison
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOCKS AND SAUCES
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
• Reduction concentrates flavor, adjusts textures, and adds
new flavors.
• Straining removes lumps.
• Deglazing is swirling liquid in pan to dissolve cooked
particles.
• Heavy cream used to give flavor and richness to sauce.
• Monter au beurre is to “finish with butter.”
– Add a few pieces of softened butter to the hot sauce.
– Swirl them in until melted.
– The sauce should then be served immediately.
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
SAUCES
SAUCE FAMILIES
Leading Sauces
•Liquid + Thickening agent = Leading sauce
•Leading sauce + Additional flavorings = Small sauce
•Standards of quality for sauces:
– Consistency and body
– Flavor
– Appearance
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
SAUCES
PRODUCTION
• Béchamel:
– Small sauces:
• Cream Sauce
• Mornay Sauce
• Cheddar Cheese
Sauce
• Mustard Sauce
• Soubise Sauce
• Nantua Sauce
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
SAUCES
PRODUCTION (CONT’D)
• Velouté:
– Suprême sauce
– Allemande sauce
– White Wine sauce
– Small Sauces:
• Poulette, Aurora,
Hungarian, Curry,
Mushroom, Albufera/Ivory,
Bercy, Herb, Normandy,
Anchovy, Shrimp,
Venetian, Horseradish
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
SAUCES
PRODUCTION (CONT’D)
Espagnole or Brown Sauce
•Hearty, flavorful sauce
•Fond lié or jus lié
•Demi-glace
•Small Sauces:
• Bordelaise • Madeira • Bercy
• Marchand de • Périgueux • Piquant
Vin • Poîvrade
• Robert • Port Wine • Lyonnaise
• Charcutière • Italian Sauce • Bigarade
• Chasseur
• Diable (Deviled) • Mushroom
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
SAUCES
PRODUCTION (CONT’D)
Tomato Sauce
– Small Sauces:
• Portugaise (Portuguese)
• Spanish
• Creole
Butter Sauces
• Melted butter • Meunière butter
• Clarified butter • Compound
• Beurre noisette butter
• Beurre noir • Beurre blanc
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
SAUCES
PRODUCTION (CONT’D)
Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.