Apparel Internship

2021

Silver Spark Apparel Limited

Doddaballapura, Bengaluru
About SSAL
 It is a wholly owned subsidiary of the Textile and Apparel major Raymond Limited.

 This unit manufactures suits and formal trousers catering largely to the export markets.

 The major market for the firm is USA, and other markets are Japan, Canada and Europe.
The major clients include:
Konaka (Japanese Buyer)
Charles Tyrwhitt
Peerless
Levis
ST Lonia
J C Penny
Calvin Klein
SSAL In Numbers
 AREA: 200,000 SQUARE FEET
 TOTAL MAN POWER: 2240 OPERATORS AND SUPERVISOR
300 EMPLOYEES

 Total Jacket Line: 5  Total Trouser Lines: 5 (one line

 4 Engineered Jacket Lines (one line
dedicated for Konaka)
 1 Hand Made Premium Suit Line
(produces 30 jackets daily)
 Monthly Capacity:
 Jackets: 50,000
dedicated for Konaka)
 Monthly Capacity:
 Trousers: 100,000
 One waistcoat line with daily
capacity of 200 waistcoats
Departments Planning
Department
Marketing and
Purchase Pre-Production
Merchandising
Department Department
Department

Cutting Sewing Finishing

Warehouse
Department Department Department

Industrial Accounts and

Quality Maintenance
Engineering Finance
Assurance Department
Department Department

Information MTM (Made

Technology to Measure)
Department Department
ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE
Role of Different Departments:
Process Flow of the Company
Marketing dept. Buyer sends soft Paper pattern is Sample garment is Buyer sends
Sample is sent for
contacts buyers & copy or a sketch of developed as per made as per the comment and the
approval
generates order the garment sketch and digitized pattern size ratio

CAD technician Sampling dept.

Purchase/
does grading as per develops size set & Buyer sends a Procure Fabric, Pre-production
Merchandising
size ratio and spec sends to the buyer purchase order trim & accessories Sample Approval
Dept.
sheet for approval

Bundling &
Issue of cut ticket
Fabric is spread as Lay shifted to the Cutting as per Fusing of the cut ticketing issue to
and mini marker to
per the lay report cutting table marker plan part sewing section as
the spreading dept.
per plan

Sewing Finishing Packing Dispatch

Merchandising/
Marketing
Organization Structure
The major buyers are:

.
Express

Banana Republic
Pellestrom

WE The basic documentation involves:

 Generation of orders depending on production
Suit Supply Konaka (Japanese Buyer) capacity
TM Lewin Peerless  Sample approvals
 Purchase co-ordination
ST Lonia Levis
 Generation of BOM
Cortefiel JC Penny
 Delivery of shipment
Charles Tyrwhitt Calvin Klein  Time and Action calendar
Jeager
.
Human Resource Dept.
TASK OF HR DEPARTMENT

Looks after the payment, salaries and wages of employees and operators
Part of recruitment team
Training of operators – according to the skill matrix
Medical facilities
Extra - activities
IT Department
 The ERP used is STAGE, on which end to end documents are
synchronized. From purchase order till shipment confirmation.

 The software is updated as soon as the latest version is available. It

has been upgraded 4 times since adopted. It accommodates 50 users.

 Other than the ERP, other software usage is in CAD/CAM department.

Gerber 6.0 was adopted in 2004 during the establishment of the
facility.

 The department follows a proper set Standard Operating Procedures.

Functions
 Managing and updating software such ERP system,
 R&D related to it,
 Card reader for attendance and pay roll system
 Hardware related maintenance and installations.

Major software being used include:

 Proman
 Stage
 V -stitch
 Driver Software in cutting room equipments
 Payroll System integrated with card readers
Purchase Department
 Purchase manager is head of the department. There are total 6 staff
members in the department who handle all the purchase requisitions from
fabric, trims and other raw materials to machinery, computers,
appliances, stationary, etc.

They are responsible for registrations of vendors and Supplier approval

according to buyers’ quality and cost norms. They synchronize with the
merchandising department for negotiation in prices after placing the
orders according to the Purchase Order.
EXIM Department
The EXIM or the Export Import department handles all the shipping documents and customs. There
are 8 staff members in the department headed by the head of department. They are responsible for all
necessary documentations in the company.
MAIN SHIPPING
DOCUMENTS
Commercial invoice
Bill of lading
Certificate of origin
Inspection certification
Dock receipt and warehouse receipt
Insurance certificate
Export license
Export packing list.
Process
flow chart
Fabric Store
Function includes:
 Issue fabric to spreading department as per plan
 Receive the end bits from the cutting department FUNCTIO
NS
 4-point system followed
 10 % random inspection for trouser fabric.
 100% inspection for jacket fabric.
 Sponging and 24 hr. relaxation is done for
 Preventing fabric shrinkage.
PROCESS
FLOW
 Shell / main fabric
 Lining
 Pocketing
 Felt
 Canvas MATERIALS
 Fusing
STORED AND
 No. of racks – 198
 Fabric storing capacity – 14,51,250m
CAPACITY
 MTM store racks – 9
 Capacity – 67,500m
 FABRIC TYPE COLOUR
Shell Blue

Lining Pink

Canvas Purple
BIN CARD Pocketing Red

Fusing White

Felt Yellow

Sampling Green

Non-moving Orange
8 Parameters
Shade Width
CSV
Report Report

Fusing Shrinkage Face Side

Report Report Approval

Color 4 Point
Fastness Inspection
4 point system
Inspection parameters
Colour Shade Variations:
Roll to roll variation
Centre to Selvedge Variation

Shrinkage:
Fusing (Heat) Shrinkage
Pressing (Steam) Shrinkage
Warp way shrinkage
Weft way shrinkage
Color Fastness:

Perchloroethylene /White Petrol of Perking (Stain Removal) Machine

Steam & Heat of Pressing Machine

Machines :

Inspection machines – 4 - Ramsons

Sponging machine – 1 - Weishi
Bias roll cutting – 1 - Loiva
Approval
All the 8 parameter reports are to be signed by the following departments:

Fabric.
Merchandising
Quality Control
Cutting
Sewing
Finishing
Trim store
Functions
 Maintain records of incoming and outgoing materials
 To check material for attribute & variables
 To arrange an incoming material in an allocated racks
 To issue trims as per production planning & other material as per requirement
 To mention a record of incoming & outgoing material
 To do audit to check physical inventory.
 To inspect quantity and quality of material
 Auditing of inventory
Process flow
Check of received material records

Quality & quantity check as per invoice

Assigning material to respective orders

Issuing of material to store with updated bin cards

Retrieval of orders from departments and issue slip

made accordingly

Records updated
Trim details
Sewing threads
Suppliers - Gutermann, Amann, Coats, Vardhman
Ticket No.- 30, 70, 75, 80, 100, 120, 150, 160, 180

Buttons
Types – 4 holes button, metal buttons(shank), plastic buttons
Sizes – 24 L - 32 L
Suppliers - Emsig, Tiger
•Finishing department trims
–Poly bag
–Carton box
–Hangers
–Staple pins
–Cello tape
–Hang tags
–Pin tags
Shoulder pads
Suppliers - Hailu, Helsa, Orion
Zipper and slider
Supplier – YKK
Hook and bar
Label
Size
Wash care
Brand
AQL in trim store
Quantity Received Sample Size Pass Fail

0-280 13 0 1

281-500 20 1 2

501-1200 32 2 3

1201-3200 50 3 4

3201-10000 80 5 6

10001-35000 125 7 8

35001 and above 300 14 15

Planning
 This department does all the planning related to the production and the delivery.

 They take care of loading plans for the lines, fabric details plans and the shipment plans.

 The department plans the entire production process from the receipt of the fabric, the
cutting plan, the quantity, time of loading, finishing and dispatch.

 The hourly output the WIP (work in progress) in line etc.

 Order execution plan is prepared 120 days in advance

Controlling
3-4 girls in each line update on ―Proman on daily basis. Reports generated include:

 Daily production performance and order tracking report

 Monthly production report

 Daily absenteeism report

 Efficiency report
Cutting dept.
Headed by – Mr. Praveen Khot
No. of Supervisors – 3 (2 for Jacket, 1 for Trouser)
Also heads CAD dept.
No. of Supervisors – 1
The capacity of the cutting department is approximately 5000 – 6000
pieces per day.
 Dept. details and Process Flow
Machine details : Receiving Order Checking Ticketing
Automatic Spreaders: 4
Pin tables : 7
Cut Order Planning
CNC cutters : 4 (Accumark
Fusing Defect checking
Software)
Fusing machines : 4

Manpower: 144 Marker

planning(CAD)
Cutting (Bundle
Stickers)
Counting

Lay reports and

Spreading Bundling Issue
fabric issuing
CAD PROCESSES:
 Marker efficiency:
• Jacket:– 88 – 90%
• Trouser:– 85 – 87%

 Software used : Gerber Accumark

SPREADING PROCESS:
 Types of laying methods:
• Manual spreading
• Automatic spreading
 CUTTING PROCESS: Bulk Cutting on CAD/CAM

 Cutting Capacity : 2000 jackets, 3500 trousers

• Presently achieved = 85%

 The pre production manager sends the cutting

schedule of a particular style about a week before. Sorting and Numbering

 Marker is prepared 3 days before cutting. And
finally cutting is done 1 or 2 days before feeding
date and stored.

Issue of Cut Pieces to the Sewing Lines

STICKERING / NUMBERING:
 The numbering of each part in a particular lay is to be done
in order to avoid the problem of shade variation in any
garment during Sewing and also to assure that different parts
for a single garment are from the same layer of the fabric.

 In addition it helps the operators to have a perfect count of

the parts and thus, helps in avoiding the misplacement of
parts.
 FUSING, PANEL INSPECTION:
 The fusing parameters (temperature, pressure and
speed) are set as per the fabric and interlining
quality. Both woven and non-woven fusing are
used as per the Buyer’s requirement.

 The operators have to perform 100 % panel inspection for

the following defects: -
 Yarn defects,
 Weaving defects,
 Finishing defects,
 Cutting defects, and
 Spreading defects.
BUNDLING, ISSUING
 The operators need to cross check recut parts being put into respective bundles
and make sure that everything is updated before issue.

 The operators are to arrange all required pieces in a serial number in trolley.

 The operators have to maintain the alignment of the pieces so that cut pieces are
not disturbed.

 The Issuing operator is to note down pieces to be issued as per cut summary
details in issue slip.

 The operators are to cross check-recutting pieces has been put into bundle
before issuing to sewing section.
Industrial Engineering
dept.
Work Flow
Calculate SAM of
To advice production
garment freshly ordered Work measurement of a
department on garment Day to day activity
to calculate different new confirmed order
SAM and line layout
consumptions

Grade change of To calculate operators To calculate line

Time and method study
operators efficiency efficiency

Check for work aid and Preparation of incentive

Line balancing
compliances scheme
Working
• Industrial engineering department is the brain of the industry.

• The industrial engineering department is responsible for all the factory operations. Once
the customers place the order the merchandise department forwards the order to the
industrial engineering department for the processing.

• They then prepare the CM cost (cut make cost). This includes:
 SAM (standard allocated minute) for each individual operation
 Cost per machine hour is calculated
 Standard achievable efficiency, etc. are calculated and forwarded back to the
merchandise department.
Sewing Department
(Jacket)
Introduction
Installed Average Daily
• Jacket production is forte of SSAL. Line No.
Capacity Prod.
• Known for its world class jacket
manufacturing. Line 1 500 450

• Price range of jacket – Rs 8000 – Rs 9,00,000

Line 2 500 450
Major buyers –
• Calvin klein, Line 3 500 350
• DKNY,
• Charles tyrwhitt Line 4 500 350

• Peerless
• Konaka (japan) HMS 30 30
Sections
Each jacket line is composed of 7 sections except line-2 and HMS:
• Front
• Lining
• Sleeve
• Assembly - 1
• Assembly - 2
• Small parts
• Pocket bag
• Flap chest
• Canvas
• Welt pocket
• Facing
• Collar
The SAM for a basic jacket is approx. 70-85 min and that for japanese (konaka)
jacket is approx. 90-105 min.

The jacket line follows the ups system of production. The material moves on
pneumatically controlled overhead hangers, which uses the principle of gravity
beautifully.

Types of fusing used –

• body fusing
• Part fusing
• Reinforcement fusing
Types of jacket made in SSAL
• Half canvas
• Full canvas
• Floating canvas
• No vent
• Single center vent
• Double vent (one on each side)
• Full lining
• Half lining
No. of operations (Style - CT):
• Front - 30 It varies from – 100-150 operations.
• Sleeve- 13
• Lining- 23
• Small parts:
Flap Pocket - 3
Chest Canvas - 3
Pocket - 2
Sleeve Head - 1
• Collar- 8
• Assembly - 21
Operation breakdown of jacket
JACKET OB
Threads used
100% Polyester, Guetermann (1000m spool)
• Shell - 120 TKT
• Lining - 150 TKT
• Shell & Lining - 120 TKT
• Button hole - 70 TKT
• Button Attach - 120 TKT
• Welt Pocketing - 120 TKT
Finishing Department
(Jacket)
Objective of finishing
• Improve the appearance of the garments
• Improve the drape by pressing
• Improve the durability of the garments
• Packing for dispatch

The finishing department at SSAL has the exclusive license to use the “SI-RO-SET
chemical” for permanent crease setting.
Operations of finishing department
JACKET FINISHING
Trouser section
Trouser Types

Double Single
Flat front
pleated pleated
Trouser Line
 There were 5 lines for Trouser manufacturing.
 Trouser line1,2,3,5 : Export
 Trouser line 4: Konaka
 The material handling and movement in the preparatory and front & back sections is on waterfall
trolleys and
 The assembly lines are based on UPS system.
 The material flow is on manually controlled overhead hangers.
 The SAM of the trouser is approx 30 - 35 min.
 Installed Average Daily
Line No.
Capacity Prod.

Line 1 1000 800

Line 2 500 450

Trouser Line
Line 3 500 450 Capacity
Line 4 750 650

Line 5 750 600

Trouser Line
The operation of Trousers line is categorized into four sections:
 Small Part preparatory section
 Front and Back and
 Assembly
 Waist Band Preparation
Trouser finishi
ng
Sampling
 Proto Sample

Sampling Fit Sample

Sampling Is Done For- Photo shoot sample

 Procurement of orders
 Order confirmation Size Set

 Final look of the garment

 For knowing the critical areas Pilot-Production Sample

 For knowing cost of production

Top of Production
 Operations required Sample

 Number of workers required

Shipment Sample
 Accessories required etc.
Various Stages of Sampling
MTM (Made to Measure)
Introduction
• Made to measure typically refers to the clothing that is sewn from a standard size base pattern.
The base pattern is altered according to the measurement & fit required by the particular customer.

• The concept behind made-to-measure is to provide the customer a tailored fit garment with high
quality like readymade garments, with the fabric, trims, style & design according to the need of
the customer.

• SSAL is the only manufacturing facility of MTM Raymond.

• The delivery time of MTM garment is 7 days.

About MTM
Softwares used –
V Stitch
Proman

Capacity of MTM – 200 jackets per day

Drops available:
Drop 2: (11 sizes)
Drop 4: (11 sizes)
Drop 6: (11 sizes)
Drop 8: (12 sizes)
Drop 0: (14 sizes)
Order placement in MTM
• Taking measurements of the customer.
• Getting the closest try on garment and trying that on the garment.
• Pinning the trial garment according to the need and fit of the customer
• Taking the pictures to help the pattern master to understand the fit requirement and to
work on intuition.
• Selection of the fabric, style by the customer
• Conveying all the collected data to the manufacturing unit
• Selecting the base size and doing the alteration according to the need of the customer
• Developing the customized garment
Process flow of MTM
Order received
• Client form: original form or scan copy
• Client photo with the form.
• Days correct information regarding the order booked.
• Responsible person to receive order, down load photo & scan print outs.
Order analysis:
• Requirement:
• Correct information to be filled.
• Measurement
• Style
• Fabric details
• Generate track sheet (Color coding)
• Alterations of pattern by CAD
• Fabric swatch crosscheck
• Track sheet print
• Barcode print
• Order track sheet dispatch to Store and CAD for ready cutting patterns
Production floor
• Laying of fabric
• Cutting
• Numbering
• Fusing
• Ready cutting
• Sewing
• Finishing
• Packaging
• Dispatched
Advancement
They are planning to replace masters from MTM stores because there has been lots
of problem faced due to measurement mistake.

Camera based measurement device – 10 lacs Rs

Not so accurate
Laser device for measurement – 60 lacs
Customer has to stand naked to get the measurements right
Problem faced in MTM
• Wrong measurements by store master

• Fabric procurement (Unavailability of fabric)

• Unavailability of Trims and accessories

QUALITY
QUALITY HIRERCHY
OF SILVER SPARK
TASK OF QUALITY DEPARTMENT
Quality parameters discussion in PP meeting
Quality Check before sending the samples to the buyer
Training the quality inspectors
Maintaining all inspection reports from store to warehouse.
Final audit before shipment
MAINTENANCE
TASK OF MAINTENENCE DEPARTMENT

Carries out preventive and corrective maintenance

Line setup during style change
Bibliography
 www.raymondindia.com
THANK YOU