Scalp Care, Shampooing, and Conditioning

Chapter 15
Scalp Care, Shampooing,

and Conditioning
© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned,
copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
“Ability is what you’re capable of doing.
Motivation determines what you do.
Attitude determines how well you do it.”
– Lou Holtz
Objectives
• Explain the two most important requirements for

scalp care.
• Describe the benefits of scalp massage.
• Know how to treat scalp and hair that are dry, oily, or
dandruff ridden.
• Explain the role of hair brushing to a healthy scalp.
Objectives (continued)
• Discuss the uses and benefits of the various types of

shampoo.
• Discuss the uses and benefits of the various types of
conditioner.
• Demonstrate the appropriate draping for a basic
shampoo and draping for a chemical service.
• Demonstrate the Three-Part Procedure and explain
why it is useful.
Scalp Care and Massage
• The two basic requirements for a healthy scalp are

cleanliness and stimulation.
• Treatments should be given with a continuous, even

motion that stimulates scalp and relaxes client.
Scalp Treatments
• Given before shampoo
• Given during shampoo
• Relaxation or treatment: only difference is which

products used
• Contraindications: medical conditions that may prohibit

the service
Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment
• Purpose: to maintain scalp and hair in a clean and

healthy condition
• Perform treatment only after full hair and scalp

examination.
Dry Hair and Scalp Treatment
• Used if natural oil is deficient
• Treatment products: contain moisturizing and emollient

ingredients
• Avoid strong soaps, greasy preparations, lotions with

high alcohol content. Use a scalp steamer.
Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment
• Cause: overactive sebaceous glands
• Purpose: to flush out excess sebum through gentle

pressing or squeezing
Antidandruff Treatment
• Cause: a fungus called malassezia
• Purpose: to suppress the growth of malassezia and

loosen scalp scales
Brushing the Hair
• Correct brushing stimulates the blood circulation of the

scalp; helps remove dust, dirt, and hair-spray buildup;
and gives added shine.
Hair-Brushing Exceptions
• Avoid before chemical service
• Avoid if scalp is irritated
• Avoid before haircolor procedures
Hairbrushes
• Natural bristles: most highly recommended to clean

and add luster to the hair
• Nylon bristles: shiny, smooth, and more suitable for

hairstyling
Scalp Analysis
• Dry, dehydrated hair • Abnormal flaking on scalp
• Thinning of the hair • Open wounds or scalp

irritations
• Excessive hair in sink
• Scalp disorders or
• Dry, tight scalp disease
• Oily scalp • Tick or lice infestation
Shampoo Selection
• As a professional, you must become skilled at selecting

shampoos that support the health of the hair, whether
the hair is natural, color-treated, fine and limp, or coarse
and wiry.
• Product knowledge is critical (read labels).
Selection Considerations
• Hair type: dry, oily, normal, chemically treated
• Hair condition: overprocessed, chemically treated,

damaged by harsh products or improper care, exposure
to elements
• Home maintenance
• pH-balanced shampoos
Potential Hydrogen (pH)
• The small p represents a quantity.
• The capital H represents the hydrogen ion.
• The amount of hydrogen in a solution is measured on

a logarithmic scale ranging from 1 to 14.
Potential Hydrogen (pH) (continued)
• Acid: 0 to 6.9 pH
• Neutral: 7.0 pH
• Alkaline: 7.1 to 14 pH
• pH-balanced shampoos: 4.5 to 5.5 pH
The Chemistry of Water
• Purification
– Sedimentation
– Filtration
– Chlorine added
– Boiling
– Distillation
• Soft water
• Hard water
The Chemistry of Shampoos (continued)
• Water
• Surfactant Molecule (surface active agent)
– Hydrophilic end
The Chemistry of Shampoos (continued)
– Lipophilic end
Types of Shampoos
• pH-balanced • Balancing
• Conditioning • Dry or powder
• Medicated • Color-enhancing
• Clarifying • For hairpieces and wigs
A Great Shampoo Experience
• Massage for client preference.

• Adjust water temperature for client choice.
• Don’t wet client’s face.
• Double-check nape area.
• Do not drench towel around neck.
• Blot hair, not face.
• Give relaxation massage.
Shampooing and Retailing
• Use the shampoo time to better establish your

professional relationship with the client and promote
quality products for at-home use.
• During the shampoo give clients information about what

you are doing and why.
Understanding Conditioners
• Deposit protein and moisturizer
• Restore strength and give body
• Protect against breakage
• Types
– Rinse-out
– Treatment or repair
– Leave-in
Formulation
• Silicone and moisture-binding humectants

• Emollients
• Synthetic polymers
• Proteins
Other Conditioning Agents
• Spray-on thermal protectors
• Scalp conditioners
• Medicated scalp lotions
• Scalp astringent lotions
Deep-Conditioning Treatments
• Also known as masks or conditioning packs
• Mixtures of concentrated protein in a heavy cream base

of a moisturizer
• Penetrate the cuticle layer
• Used when an equal degree of moisturizing and protein

is required
Draping
• Client must be properly draped for each service.
• Shampoo (wet) draping: two terry towels used, one

under cape and one over; replaced with neck strip and
cape
• Chemical-service draping: two terry towels used, one

under cape and one over, which remain during service
Three-Part Procedure
• Pre-service: preparation
• Service: practical service on client
• Post-service: caring for client after service and clean-up
Practical Class
• Pre-Service Procedure
• Post-Service Procedure
• Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment
• Dry Hair and Scalp Treatment
• Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment
• Antidandruff Treatment
Practical Class (continued)
• Brushing the Hair

• Draping for a Shampoo
• Draping for a Chemical Service
• Basic Shampoo and Conditioning
• Scalp Massage
Summary and Review
• What are the two most important requirements for scalp

care?
• How should scalp and hair that are dry, oily, or with
dandruff be treated?
• What are the benefits of scalp massage?
Summary and Review (continued)
• Why is hair brushing important for maintaining a healthy

scalp and hair?
• What shampoo is appropriate for use on dandruff? On

product buildup? On damaged hair?
• What is the action of conditioner on hair?
Congratulations!
You have completed one unit of study

toward course completion.

Scalp Care, Shampooing, and Conditioning

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Chapter 15

Scalp Care, Shampooing,

• Explain the two most important requirements for

• Describe the benefits of scalp massage.

• Explain the role of hair brushing to a healthy scalp.

• Discuss the uses and benefits of the various types of

• The two basic requirements for a healthy scalp are

• Treatments should be given with a continuous, even

• Given before shampoo

• Given during shampoo

• Relaxation or treatment: only difference is which

• Contraindications: medical conditions that may prohibit

• Purpose: to maintain scalp and hair in a clean and

• Perform treatment only after full hair and scalp

• Used if natural oil is deficient

• Treatment products: contain moisturizing and emollient

• Avoid strong soaps, greasy preparations, lotions with

• Cause: overactive sebaceous glands

• Purpose: to flush out excess sebum through gentle

• Cause: a fungus called malassezia

• Purpose: to suppress the growth of malassezia and

• Correct brushing stimulates the blood circulation of the

• Avoid before chemical service

• Avoid if scalp is irritated

• Avoid before haircolor procedures

• Natural bristles: most highly recommended to clean

• Nylon bristles: shiny, smooth, and more suitable for

• Dry, dehydrated hair • Abnormal flaking on scalp

• Thinning of the hair • Open wounds or scalp

• As a professional, you must become skilled at selecting

• Product knowledge is critical (read labels).

• Hair type: dry, oily, normal, chemically treated

• Hair condition: overprocessed, chemically treated,

• The small p represents a quantity.

• The capital H represents the hydrogen ion.

• The amount of hydrogen in a solution is measured on

• Conditioning • Dry or powder

• Clarifying • For hairpieces and wigs

• Massage for client preference.

• Use the shampoo time to better establish your

• During the shampoo give clients information about what

• Deposit protein and moisturizer

• Restore strength and give body

• Protect against breakage

• Silicone and moisture-binding humectants

• Spray-on thermal protectors

• Medicated scalp lotions

• Scalp astringent lotions

• Also known as masks or conditioning packs

• Mixtures of concentrated protein in a heavy cream base

• Penetrate the cuticle layer

• Used when an equal degree of moisturizing and protein

• Client must be properly draped for each service.

• Shampoo (wet) draping: two terry towels used, one

• Chemical-service draping: two terry towels used, one

• Service: practical service on client

• Post-service: caring for client after service and clean-up

• Brushing the Hair

• What are the two most important requirements for scalp

• What are the benefits of scalp massage?

• Why is hair brushing important for maintaining a healthy

• What shampoo is appropriate for use on dandruff? On

• What is the action of conditioner on hair?