Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Requirements
to injuries or fatalities.
•LOAD:
OSHA standards require that scaffolds must be able to support four times their
recommended maximum weight. OSHA require that any wire or fiber rope which is
used in making scaffold suspension must be able to bear at least six times its intended
load. Scaffold must be maintained and kept in safe working condition at all times and
any scaffold which has been damaged, weakened or otherwise structurally impaired or
compromised must not be used until all necessary repairs have been carried out.
•WORKER SAFETY:
OSHA scaffold safety standards require that an access ladder must be provided for
from overhead hazards in the form of falling debris. OSHA rules state that employees
must not work on a scaffold in the event of bad weather, such as high winds or
storms. Employees are not required to work on a scaffold which is covered with snow
or ice. They can only work on such a scaffold if the snow and ice have been removed
and the scaffold planking has been sanded to prevent any slips from occurring.
•OTHER SCAFFOLD SAFETY RULES:
Tools and other materials or debris should not be allowed to accumulate on a scaffold to
the point that they will constitute a hazard. A tag line must be attached to any material
which is being hoisted onto a scaffold. Only wire rope-supported scaffolds should be
used when acid solutions are used in the cleaning of buildings which are more than 50
feet in height, and only treated fiber rope or fiber rope which has been protected should
be used around or for any work in which the use of corrosive chemicals or substances
are involved. The legs, poles or uprights of scaffolds must be secured and braced rigidly
tools and material. The stability of the scaffold begins with properly installing
the scaffold's first section. Placement on solid ground and properly leveling the
first section of scaffold will ensure that the work platform is safe for use under
load. When erecting the scaffold, additional safety components ensure the
•1. Check the stability of the ground where the scaffolding will be located. Remove
debris from the area as you check for soft spots in the ground.
•3. Push the safety catch up on the bottom pin attached to the scaffold frame. Align
the hole in one leg of the cross-brace with the pin. Slide the hole onto the pin. Release
the safety catch. Perform the same procedure to affix the top leg of the cross-brace onto
•6. Move the scaffold with a helper to its final position. Pick one end of the
scaffolding up and place a 2 by 12 under each leg. Repeat the procedure on the
•7. Adjust each screw jack to its lowest position. Insert a screw jack into each
opposite scaffold frame. Tie the line off, making sure that the line rests in the same
position on both scaffold frames. Place the line level onto the taught line.
•9. Adjust the screw jacks until the line level shows that the frames are level. Place the
4-foot carpenter's level on the top leg of one of the scaffold frames. Adjust the screw jack
not on the side of the line level to make the scaffold frame level across the end. Level the
other scaffold frame in the same manner. Remove the string line from the scaffolding.
•10. Span the distance between the scaffold frames with the approved floor planks.
•11. Slide a scaffold frame connector into the top of each vertical support of the
scaffold frames. Twist the connector until the spring-loaded pin snaps into the
•12. Climb onto the scaffold. Have a helper hand you a scaffold frame. Place
the scaffold frame onto the frame connectors you installed in Step 11. Place the
•13. Connect the scaffold frames with the cross-braces as described in Step
3.
•14. Place a 2 by 4 standing on the 2-inch side on the floor planks, parallel to the cross-
brace. Push the 2 by 4 tightly to the vertical legs of the two scaffold frames you installed in
Step 12. Wrap the #18-tie wire around the 2 by 4 and one of the vertical supports. Cut the
tie wire with the lineman's pliers. Wrap the two loose ends of the tie wire over each other.
Twist the wire tightly with the lineman's pliers. Repeat the procedure on the other scaffold
frame. Secure the toe board to the other scaffold frame in the same manner.
•15. Attach another toe board to the other side of the scaffold as described in Step 14.
•16. Secure 2-by-4 handrails, 19 inches and 42 inches from the floor
planks. Wrap tie wire around each end of the 2 by 4 and the vertical supports
of each scaffold frame. Wrap the #18-tie wire around the 2 by 4, where it
•17. Test the handrails to ensure that they are stable before working from the
scaffold.
HOW TO REMOVE
CONCRETE FORMWORK
•Step 1
•Allow the concrete to dry before removing the forms. You'll want the concrete to
be hard and strong so that removing the forms does not result in a sagging
•Step 2
•Remove forms starting at the top of sloping slabs. Use a hammer to remove nails
•Remove the stakes from the ground that support the forms with a stake puller to avoid
•Step 4
•Pull the forms away from the sides of the concrete slab using as little force as necessary.
If a form sticks to the slab or is difficult to remove, use the pry bar to pry the form upward
from the ground, loosening the form from the concrete in the process. Pull the loosened
form from the concrete. Be careful not to gouge the slab with the pry bar in the process.
•Step 5
balance. For example, with a square slab start at the upper left corner, then
remove the form from the lower right corner, then the upper right followed by
the lower left. Remove all forms in this manner. If the forms are reusable, clean
them and store them in a dry place. Otherwise dispose of the forms.
SHORES AND SCAFFOLDS ARE REMOVED
•Shoring
• is the process of temporarily supporting a building, vessel, structure, or trench with shores (props)
when in danger of collapse or during repairs or alterations? Shoring comes from shore, a timber or
•Scaffold
•in building construction, temporary platform used to elevate and support workers and materials
during the construction, repair, or cleaning of a structure or machine; it consists of one or more
planks of convenient size and length, with various methods of support, depending on the form and
use.
SAFE REMOVAL OF RESHORES
•The operation that makes our foremen most nervous is removing reshores. We go along with them in the idea
that it is better to leave reshores in place a little longer than to take a chance on a collapse. But we don't think
we're using our forms and shores efficiently, and we can't find any tables that make it clear how soon it is safe to
remove reshores under all conditions. Can you provide any guidance?
•There is no really firm answer because of the many uncertainties regarding concrete strength development as
well as load distribution and reshores capacity. One contracting firm decided to check the loads for itself by
inserting small load test cells under the primary form shores of the floor to be cast. By monitoring the loads, they
were able to observe how rapidly the load was being transferred to the concrete. They also measured loads
under the reshores. When loads on the bottom set of reshores were low enough the reshores were removed.
SAFETY AND EFFICIENCY TIPS FOR TAKING DOWN SCAFFOLDS
•Safety for erecting and working on scaffolds gets a good deal of attention, but
tips for taking down scaffolds are an often-overlooked aspect. But the truth of the
matter is, dismantling scaffolding safely and efficiently requires just as much care
•It’s pretty common on construction sites for anyone on the crew to be told to
take down scaffolds, even though it should be the job of people specifically
trained to do it properly. Also, as it’s part of cleanup, workers often rush the
2. All crew dismantling the scaffold must wear appropriate personal safety gear, including
hard hats, protective gloves, protective boots, and any other gear necessitated by site
conditions
5. Examine the full area around the base of the scaffold for potential hazards like
debris, tools or materials, exposed rebar, stub piping, etc.; remove or otherwise
6. Inspect the scaffold structure, including ties, planks, plank ends and whether
and posts
10. Lower components down carefully by hand, rope, or hoist,
making sure nobody is standing where objects can fall on them;
never toss or drop components
11. Don’t stack components anywhere on the scaffold as they’re detached; get
them directly to the ground and neatly stacked in the cleared area
12. Partially remove the top platform and install it on the lift below; remove the
13. Continue taking down the scaffold in the reverse order it was built
14. For pinned scaffolding, only remove pins at the frame base
15. Keep coupling pins fastened to the top of the frame below to avoid
17. Inspect all scaffold components after removal and separate and damaged
18. Avoid leaving up a partially disassembled scaffold; if you must, post clear
19. Refrain from taking down a scaffold in high wind, rain, snow, or other
14 days
Removal of props to beams and arches · Span<=6m · Span >6m
14 days
21 days
HOW TO PROPERLY REMOVE THE
FORMWORK
site. If not properly done it not only affects the structure but also
can result in high risk for the labors working at site. Thus, the
concrete developed.
The props of soffits are not removed until it is ensured to bear its own self
The crowbars are not to be inserted in the sides to remove the formworks as
be removed.
higher elevations.
MATERIALS FOR FORMWORK CONSTRUCTION)
1. Timber:
PLYWOOD:
STEEL:
ALUMINIUM:
PLASTICS:
FABRIC
TYPES OF FORMWORK AND REUSABILITY
• Steel and aluminum formwork is use mainly due to its capability to carry
heavy concrete, provide longer spans, and having good potential for reuse.
plastic formwork is useful for structural concrete elements that have complex
shapes and unique features. It is easy to disassemble and has a capability for
•1. Strip forms carefully. Metal bars or pry bars should not be used on plywood because
they will damage the panel surface and edge. Instead, use wood wedges, tapping
•2. Clean and apply release agents. Soon after removal, plywood forms should be
inspected for wear, cleaned, and repaired, spot-primed, refinished, and lightly treated with
a form-release agent before reusing. Use a hardwood wedge and a stiff fiber brush for
cleaning. Avoid using a metal brush because it may cause wood fibers to “wool.”
•3. Apply sealants and release agents as directed. Protective sealant
coatings and release agents for plywood increase form life and aid in stripping.
Some panels may require only a light coating between uses. Applying a form
release agent a few days before the plywood is used, then wiped so a thin film
remains, will prolong the plywood’s life, increase release characteristics, and
minimize staining.
•4. Know the difference between release agents and coatings. Release
agents and coatings can affect forms and concrete differently, so select a
release agent keeping mind its influence on the finished concrete surface. For
sometimes are used to form a hard, dry, water-resistant film on plywood forms.
•6. Handle and store forms properly. Be careful to prevent panel chipping, denting,
and corner damage during handling. Panels should never be dropped. Forms should
be carefully piled flat, face to face and back to back. Forms should be cleaned
•Hairline cracks or splits may occur in the face ply. These “checks” may be more
pronounced after repeated use of the form. Checks do not mean the plywood is
delaminating. Form maintenance, including careful storage to assure slow drying, will
wood and phenolic overlays resist alkaline solutions and abrasion, some
panel.
SALAMAT