Apparel Production

Apparel Production
Overview
Introduction
Introduction to Garment Manufacturing
 Garment manufacturing is an assembly- oriented activity with a great range of raw
materials, product types, production volumes, supply chains, retail markets and associated
technologies.
 Companies range from small family business to multinationals.
 The clothing industry is labour intensive industry.

Departments in garment manufacturing unit
Trims and
Merchandising Sampling Fabric store
accessories store
department department department
department
Spreading & Quality

Sewing Washing
Cutting Assurance
department department
department department
Finishing & Finance and

Maintenance HR/Admin
Packaging Accounts
Department Department
department Department
Process flow in garment manufacturing unit
Buyer- BOM
Production
Supplier Sampling generation for
order placed
Meeting po
Pre production Raw material Raw material

sample Fabric washing inspection procurement
Shipment
Production sample Finishing Packing
Shipment
Merchandising department
Process flow in merchandising department
Receipt of the BOM draft for Raw material Raw material
Pattern making
techpack sampling procurement inspection
Getting the fit Getting

BOM draft for Fit sample Proto sample
sample approval on
production making development
approved proto sample
Getting
Approval Order
approvals on Raw material R aw material
sample approved for
size set procurement inspection
development production
samples
Order file
Send shipment Follow up with Approval on GPT/FPT to
transferred to
samples to the the production pre production conform to
the production
buyer department sample standards
department
Follow up with
the production
department till
delivery
Responsibilities of a merchandiser
Internal & external communication
Sampling
Preparing internal order sheets
Accessories & trims
Preparing purchase orders
Merchandiser Getting approvals on lab dips and bit looms

Advising and assisting production and quality department
Mediating production and quality departments
Helping documentation
Taking responsibility for inspections
Giving shipping instructions and following shipment
Source: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/36/3516/merchandising-in-an-apparel-industry1.a
Sampling department
Responsibilities of sampling department
 Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser.
 Checking pattern’s workability.
 Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s approval.
 Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing samples, to QC.
 Minimizing operations and consumption.

Types of sample prepared
• This is the first sample which is made for any style by most of the buyer.
Design development • Design development is either done by buyer or factory
• The main purpose is to take the decision to proceed with the same line or not.
• Proto sample is developed at very initial stage and normally order is confirmed to the factory
based on proto sample .
• Proto sample is the rough interpretation of the enquiry done to acquaint the tailors with the style.
Proto sample • It is usually done on the substitute fabrics, and using accessories, what is available and then
checked on the dress form.
• The buyer may make the necessary changes pertaining to the fit, the drape, the style details etc.
• Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on live models or on dummy and
for approval of construction details.
Fit sample • The fabric used for fit sample production is the actual fabric which is going to be used for bulk
production or sample yardage fabric is used.
• In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks for photo shoot sample.
Photo shoot sample • Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various media like, print, TV
or websites to see the response of the consumer.
• The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the order from the retailers.
Sales man / Marketing • In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is used or sample yardage need to be used.
/Showroom sample • This sample also very important stage of sampling as the sales of buyer depends upon this sample
presentation, look, feel of fabric is important.
Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609
Types of sample prepared
• The main purpose of size set sample is to check the factory's capability to make the
Size set sample sample in all sizes
• 1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each size need to send to buyer.
• The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on garment to
ensure the performance of the garment.
GPT sample (Garment • GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results are sent to both factory as well as
Performance Test) buyer.
• The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Seam performance etc.
• PP sample is considered to be a contract between the buyer and the factory.

• It has to be made in original fabric and trims
• Washing, embroidery and printing should match to actual.
Pre- production sample • PP Sample is the standard for production and bulk production garments should be
identical to PP sample.
• The factory can start the production of bulk garment only after the approval of
preproduction sample.
• Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel and handle of fabric
Wash sample after washing.
• The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial pieces are come out of sewing
TOP sample (Top of line.
Production) • In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of the style.
• Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or not.
• Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs to pull form the actual
Shipment sample shipment and sent to buyer.
• The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer about the actual shipment dispatch.
Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609
Fabric store department
Functions of the fabric store department
 Receive the fabric as per BOM
 Fabric inspection (four point system)
 Conduct fabric test (e.g. Shrinkage, colour fastness etc.)
 Issue to the production department as per the requirement

Fabric audit procedure
 10% random inspection for sampling or lining or net
fabric.
 Inspection for production order fabric as per buyer’s
requirement.
 Perform GSM cutting.
 Perform shrinkage test.
 Check the fabric for the bowing or skewing.
 Check fabric roll for the defects. for:

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Trims and accessories
Store department
Functions of the trims and accessories department
 To receive incoming material.
 To check material for attribute & variables.
 To arrange the incoming material in allocated racks.
 To issue trims as per BOM for sampling and production & other material
as per requirement.
 To maintain a record of incoming & outgoing material.
Spreading and
cutting department
Spreading and cutting flow process
Preparation for
Planning Spreading Cutting
sewing
Spreading and cutting flow process
Spreads
Markers
Planning
Production
Manual
Spreading
Machine
Manual
Cutting
Machine
Ticketing
Preparation
for sewing
Bundles
Planning
Spreads Markers Production

Cut order planning
It translates customer orders into cutting orders

 minimize total production costs
 meet deadlines
 seek most effective use of labor, equipment, fabric and space

Responsibilities of Cut Order Planning
 Examining incoming orders and piece goods width and availability
 Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning procedures for marker making
 Determining whether file markers are available or new ones are needed
 Developing specifications for optimum marker making and fabric utilization
 Determine most effective use of spreading and cutting equipment and personnel
 Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and cutting

Cutting orders
leads to
Marker planning Lay planning

Marker planning
 The results of cut order planning are cutting orders that direct marker planning and cut
planning.
 The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sizes and
shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment utilization.
 One cutting order may require several markers to achieve optimum efficiency.
 A lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting.
 Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labor and table space.
 Spreading and cutting schedules are affected by:

 table length,
 type of equipment,
 spread length,
 spreading time and
 cutting time.
Marker
 is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific style and the sizes
to be cut from a single spread.
Marker making
 is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified
style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time, skill and concentration)
Marker making
 Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process.
 By retaining strict control over this critical step, they keep the fabric consumption as low
as possible.
 It also ensures that the issues that affect quality will be given proper attention. These
include placing patterns on grain, keeping patterns paired, and attending to details such
as drill holes and notches.
 Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, the company may save or
waste thousands of dollars a year.
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
Marker making
Markers types:
 Blocks or Sections
 Blocked or sectioned markers contain all of the
pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes.
Block or section marker

 Continuous
 Continuous markers contain all the pattern
pieces for all sizes included in a single cutting.
Continuous marker
Marker making
Markers types:
 Open marker
 Marker made with full pattern pieces.
 Closed marker
 Marker made with half garment parts pieces for laying along the folds of the tube (tubular knit).
Closed marker
Marker making
Computerized marker
Manually produced
making (CAD)
Marker making
Manual marker
 Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply
 Tracing by pencil or tailor’s chalk.
 Time consuming.
 Subject to errors. (pattern overlap, grain line, poor line definition, omission of pcs.)
 Accuracy depends on individual’s skill.

Marker making
Computerised marker
 Accurate
 Shortest response time.
 Direct or digitized.
 Manipulate images to determine best utilization. No overlapping/no omissions
 Parameters (style #,size, etc.) for markers are entered into the computer.
 Can be printed/recalled/modified.
 Criteria can be set by technician. Can be used to determine fabric requirement.

Marker making
Marker mode : Nap/ One/ Way
 The Nap/ One/ Way marker (abbreviated N/O/W) is
made with every pattern placed with the “down”
direction of the pattern in the same direction.
 This mode is necessary for fabrics that are
asymmetric.
 All patterns are placed on-grain, and in the “down”
direction, which is usually toward the left edge
(starting point where the legend is written).
 The Nap/One/ Way marker is the highest quality but
least efficient of the three nap directions for a marker.
Marker making
Marker mode : Nap/ Either/ Way
 The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated N/E/W) is
made where there is no restriction of which way the
pattern are oriented.
 The patterns may be oriented either “down” or “up”,
placed wherever they fit best, only making sure that
the patterns are on-grain.
 The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually the most
efficient mode yielding the highest fabric utilization.
Marker making
Marker mode : Nap/ Up/& Down
 The Nap/ Up/& Down marker (abbreviated N/U/D)
is more efficient than the Nap/ One/ Way marker,
but not as efficient as the Nap/ Either/ Way
marker.
 In order to get a better fit between the patterns,
alternating sizes of patterns are oriented in
opposite directions.
 This method is yields moderately good fabric
utilization, and good quality.
Marker making
Marker Efficiency
Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%
Total area of the marker plan
 It is determined for fabric utilization
 Minimum waste
Factors affecting marker efficiency

 Fabric characteristics (fabric width, length of design repeat etc.)
 Shape of Pattern pieces (large pieces – less flexibility)
 Grain requirements
Spreading
 Spreading is the processes of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table cutting
table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process
 Spread or lay is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker
Requirement of spreading Spreading equipment

 Shade sorting of cloth pieces
 Spreading surfaces ( table, pin
 Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability table, vacuum table)
 Alignment of plies  Spreading machines
 Correct ply tension
 Elimination of fabric faults
 Avoidance of distortion in the spread

Spreading
Spreading equipment
 Spreading surfaces ( table, pin table, vacuum table)
 Spreading machines
Spreading
Manual Machine
Manual spreading
 In manual spreading, fabric is drawn from
its package which, if it is a roll, may be
supported by a frame and carried along the
table where the end is secured by weights
or by clamps.
 The operators work back from the end,
aligning the edges and ensuring that there
is no tension and that there are no wrinkles.
Machine spreading
 Spreading machines carry the piece of fabric from end to
end of the spread, dispensing one ply at a time on the
spread.
 Spreading machines may include:
 A motor to drive
 A platform on which the operator rides
 A ply cutting device with automatic catcher to hold the ends of

ply in place
 A ply counter
 An alignment shifter actuated by photo electric edge guides

 A turntable
 A direct drive on the fabric support, synchronized with the speed

of travel, to reduce or eliminate tension in the fabric being
spread.
Nap one way & face
one way spreading
Nap either way &

face to face
spreading
Spreading Mode
Nap one-way face to
face spreading
Nap either way &

face one way
spreading
Spreading
Spreading Mode: Nap one way & face one way spreading
 Most common spreading method that can also be done manually.
 Fabric roll is kept on a roller stand and fabric end is being pulled by two spreading operators
(thus unwinding fabric from freely rotating roll) walking along both sides of cutting table.
 While using machine, the lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the
rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
 Every layer has to start from same end thus spreading machine has to come back to starting
position without spreading the fabric. This return movement of spreading machine is called
as “dead heading”
Face one way Nap one

way
Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005

Spreading
Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face to face spreading
 The quickest spreading method while using spreading machine.
 Difficult to achieve manually.
 The machine carry the fabric roll while the end is being held in place by catcher, at
layer end fabric is not cut just folded and held by another catcher while the fabric
is being laid by the machine during it’s return movement also.
Face to Nap either

face way

Spreading
Spreading Mode: Nap one-way face to face spreading
 Most time consuming method of spreading.
 The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table
thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
 At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and
return back to starting position without.
 Now from the starting end the second layer is being laid face to face.
Face to Nap one

face way

Spreading
Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face one way spreading
 The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table
thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
 At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and start
spreading the second layer from the opposite end face one way. There is no dead heading
by the machine in this spreading mode.
Face one way Nap either

way

Spreading
Spreading costs
 Labour cost
 Fabric waste
 Splicing loss
 End loss
 Width loss
Cuttin
g
room
Cutting
Cutting
Manual Machine
Portable cutting Stationary Position

Scissors
knives cutters markers
Straight Band
knife
Notchers
knife
Die Drills and
Round cutting
knife
thread
Servo
markers
cutting
Plasma
cutting
Water jet
cutting
Laser
cutting
Cutting
Scissors
Manual cutting
Cutting
Portable cutting knives
Power system
Handle
Sharpening
Cutting blade
Blade guard
Up and down movement
One way thrust as the circular

blade makes contact with the
fabric
Straight knife
Round knife Base plate
Cutting
Portable cutting knives
Straight knife Round knife
 Vertical blade  Popular, light and fast.

 Reciprocates up and down  Suitable only for cutting in straight lines
 Corners and curves can be cut accurately or very gradual curves, in depths of
 Most versatile and commonly used about 15cm
 Blades length - 6 to 14 inches  Larger blade cuts up to 2" of soft or
 Spread depth depends on blade length & bulky material, or lower lays of harder
adjustable height of the blade guard material such as shirts
 All of the pieces cut from a lay are  Small blade cuts single layer
identical  A round blade contacts the spread at
an angle; thus, the top ply is cut before
the bottom ply
Cutting
Stationary cutters: Band knife
 Contains a narrow, sharpened, endless steel band
 Fabric layers are guided by hand against the blade
 Air cushion is provided below the fabric layers
 Plies are stapled together to prevent slippage
 Used for precision cutting to a depth of up to 300mm
 Corners, tight curves and pointed incisions are cut
precisely
 Band knives are more accurate for small blocks or for
shaving small amounts off pre-cut blocks
Cutting
Stationary cutters: Servo cutting
 Overhead servo motor
 Adjustable speed
 Suspension system that
supports the knife perpendicular
to the cutting table
 Knife is mounted on a swivel arm
 It combines vertical cutting and
band knife cutting into one
machine
Cutting
Stationary cutters: Die cutting
 Dies are pre – shaped metal outlines
 Most accurate
 Die cutting operation involves
 Placement of fabric
 Positioning the die on the fabric
 Engaging the machine to press the die
into the fabric
 Used mainly for leather, coated and laminated
materials
 Areas where the same patterns are used over
a long period, e.g. collar, pocket flaps
Cutting
Stationary cutters: Plasma cutting
 Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature ionized gas (argon)
 Faster cutter of single plies
 High engineering and cost issues
 Problems – same as for laser cutting
 Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature ionized gas (argon)
 Faster cutter of single plies
 High engineering and cost issues
Cutting
Stationary cutters: Water jet cutting
 Very high velocity, fine stream of water
 High pressure jet acts as a solid tool, tears the fibers on impact
 As the jet penetrates successive plies in a spread, the momentum decreases and cutting
ability is reduced frayed edges
 Wet edges, water spots, inconsistent cutting quality
 Leather, plastic, vinyl
 High equipment costs
Cutting
Position markers: Notchers
 Notches can be cut by straight knife too but
accuracy is required
 Specialized notching equipment provides
greater accuracy because a guide lines up the
notcher with the cut edge
 Hot notcher consists of a heating element
(blade) that slightly scorches the fibers adjacent
to the notch (thermoplastic fibers)
 Two types of notches:
 Straight notch and V-notch
Cutting
Position markers: Drills and thread markers
 Drill mount consists of motor, base plate with a hole and spirit
level
 Used for reference markers needed away from the edge of a
garment part, e.g. position of pockets, darts, etc.
 A hole is drilled through the lay
 Normally, drill is used cold, hole remains visible until the sewing
operator comes to use it

 Loose weave – hot drill is used which slightly scorches or fuse
 the edges of the
Hypodermic holespot) drill – leaves small deposit of paint on each ply of fabric
(or dye
 ALL drill holes must eventually be concealed by the construction of the garment
Preparation
for sewing
Ticketing Bundles
Preparation for sewing
Ticketing
 Tickets carry details : style no, size,
ply no, bundle no., date issued
 Operations may be incorporated for
payment purposes, control of work
and facilitating quality control
Preparation for sewing
Bundling
 Small batches of garments move from one work station to another in a
controlled way
 Tens, dozens, 2 dozens, etc.
 If ticketing is not done, a top ply labeling system is done
Bundle ticket consists of :

 Order no. 6015
 Bundle no. 1430
 Quantity 12
 Style no. 3145
 Size 12
 Section collar
Sewing department
Sewing process flow
Cut parts Bulk
received from production In line
the cutting inspection Production
begins
room continues
Rough Button-button End line

Ironing
checking hole/ bartack checking
Measurement
Final checking Tagging Packing
checking
QA audit by
Ex - factory the buying
house
Sewing department
Sewing department
Production system Seams and stitches

Make through system
Conventional bundle
system
Clump system
Progressive bundle system
Production system Flexible flow system
Straight line system
Synchro flow system
Unit production system
Modular manufacturing
system
Sewing department
Production system: Make through system
 It is the traditional method of manufacture in which an operator makes
right through one garment at a time.
Source: ApparelKey.com
Sewing department
Production system: Conventional bundle system
 Sewing machines are arranged in lines.
 The work flows from the central (store) area to the

first machine, from the first machine back to the
store, and then on to the next machine, and so forth.
 A distributor stationed at the store is responsible for

receiving and dispatching the work.
 The work in progress is in the form of bundles.
 These bundles may be put on to a tray, a box, or a

bag, or the garment parts may be wrapped and tied.
Sewing department
Production system: Clump system
 A worker collects a clump of materials from the
worktable and carries out the first operation.
 After he has completed his part of the work, he
returns it to the table.
 A worker for the second operation then continues the
work and so on.
 The process is 'collection - work -return' continues
until the whole garment has been assembled.
Sewing department
Production system: Progressive bundle system
 Sewing operations are laid out in sequence.
 Each operator receives a bundle, does his work, reties

the bundle and passes it to the next operator.
 There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or table for
storing the inter-process work between each
operation.
 The work is routed by means of tickets.
 This system is the most widely used system in the

garment industry today. It is used in shirt factories,
jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.
Sewing department
Production system: Flexible flow system
 A section of sewing operators, each with a supply of work in
a rack at the side, work at an engineered work place.
 The machines are laid out in such a way that a flow of work
can be planned using the correct number of operators in
sequence.
 For style A garments, the work distributed after operation 1
can be distributed to the two operators performing operation
2. On completion, the work from both workers is then sent to
operator 3. After operation 3, the work is continued by the
two operators performing operation 4 and so on.
 When a new style is to be loaded on to the system, the
number of operators needed for each operation must be
planned in detail to ensure a balanced output.
Sewing department
Production system: Straight line system
 The manufacturing process is broken down into several
operations, which take the same time to complete.
 Groups of operators are required to handle only
individual garments.
 The garment parts pass from one operator to the next,
until the garment has been completely made up by one
group of operators.
 The central distribution unit may be a fixed table or a a
conveyor belt (its speed will be set to suit the cycle
time).
Sewing department
Production system: Synchro flow system
 Garment parts of the same size and color are
processed separately.
 Different garment parts can be processed
simultaneously for assembling.
 At the same time, collars, sleeves, cuffs, pockets, etc.,
from other lines also go down a central line.
 The different garment parts are then processed
together to form completed garments.
Sewing department
Production system: Unit production system
 A unit production system (UPS) is a computer-controlled production line.
 It is a type of line layout that uses an overhead transport system to move individual
units from work-station to work station for assembly.
 All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production line together by
means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead conveyor.
 Production operations are completed without removing the parts from the carrier.
 Automated materials handling replaces the traditional system of bundling, tying and
untying, and manually moving garment parts.
 Electronic data can be collected from workstations, which provides payroll and inventory
data, immediate tracking of styles, and costing and performance data for prompt
decision.
Sewing department
Production system: Modular manufacturing
system
 Modular manufacturing groups operators into teams,
or modules.
 The team works on one/a few garment at a time
instead of a bundle of garments.
 The operators stand /sit at their stations and rotate to
different machines as they work, becoming familiar
with multiple steps in producing the garment.
Seams and stitches
Sewing Machine
Thread-guides
Thumb-nut screw
Stitch
Take-up lever regulator
Tension discs/check-
spring
Needle bar
Needle Reversing lever
Throat plate
Needle guard Machine bed
Presser foot
Sewing Machine
Needle Bar
Needle Throat plate
Needle Eye
Presser Foot
Feed Dog
Sewing Machine
Stitch forming devices

Stitch Device used
Lock stitch Bobbin hook
Chain stitch Looper
Over lock Looper and spreader
Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)

Sewing Machine
The bobbin of a lock stitch machine

Sewing Machine
Machine beds
Raised bed
Flat bed

Sewing Machine
Machine beds
Cylinder bed Feed of arm

Sewing Machine
Machine beds
Post bed

Seams & Stitches
 Garments are shaped and formed in three ways:
 materials molded to a form,
 fabric pieces cut to shape and assembled by bonding, and
 pieces cut to shape and sewn.
 For the purpose of standardization of stitch and seam formations, the U.S government
developed a guide that defines stitches and seams in current use. The United States Federal
Stitch and Seam Specifications (Federal Standard 751a) were adopted in 1965.
 The British Standard BS 3870: Schedule of Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings was also
developed about the same time.
 The Federal Standard 751a have been replaced by ASTM D 6193, Standards Related to
Stitches and Seams.

Seams & Stitches
ASTM D 6193 gives the following definitions:
 A stitch is the configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit.
 A seam is a line where two or more fabrics are joined.
 A stitching consists of a series of stitches embodied in a material for ornamental purposes or

finishing an edge or both.

Seams & Stitches
Seams
 The basic function of a seam is to hold pieces of fabric together.
 To perform its function correctly, the seam should have properties or characteristics closely
allied to those of the fabrics being sewn.
 The careful selection of the most appropriate seam, a suitable stitch type together with the
correct thread and machine settings for the fabric and end-product is of paramount
importance.

Seams & Stitches
Physical properties of seam
 Strength: a seam must be strong. Strength is usually measured in two directions: across the
seam (lateral or transverse strength) and along the seam (longitudinal strength).
 Extensibility
 Durability: A seam must be durable, long-lasting and not abrade or wear easily during
everyday use of the garment
 Security: a seam needs to be secure and not unravel during everyday use of the garment
 Appearance properties: the ideal seam should join pieces of fabric in an unobtrusive and
efficient manner with no discontinuity in physical properties or appearance.
 Balance

Seams & Stitches
Classification of seams
 Superimposed seam
 Lap seam
 Bound seam
 Flat seam Superimposed seam

 Edge finishing
Bound seam
Lap seam
Edge finishing
Flat seam

Seams & Stitches
Stitches
Stitch properties
 Stitch size has three dimensions: length, width, and depth.
 Stitch length is specified as the number of stitches per inch (spi) and can be an indicator of
quality. High spi means short stitches; low spi means long stitches. Generally, the greater
the spi, the more the holding power and seam strength.
 Stitch width refers to the horizontal span (bight) covered in the formation of one stitch or
single line of stitching. Stitches that have width dimensions require multiple needles or
lateral movement of thread carriers such as the needle bars, loopers or spreaders.
 Stitch depth is the distance between the upper and lower surface of the stitch. It is a
factor for blind stitches.
Seams & Stitches
Stitch classification
 Stitch classification is based on structure of the stitch and method of interlacing.

Seams & Stitches
100 Class stitch: Single thread chain stitch
 Using one needle thread and one blind looper
Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
101 Class One thread Basting, or light construction
103 Class One thread Blind stitch for hemming
104 Class One thread Blind stitch for hemming
Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/100cl.htm
Seams & Stitches
200 Class stitch: Single thread hand sewn stitch
 Using one needle thread
202 Class One Thread Basting, tacking or repairs
205 Class One Thread Pick stitch - topstitching
Seams & Stitches

300 Class stitch: Two or more thread lock stitch
 Using Needle Thread(s) and One Bobbin Hook Thread
301 Class Two threads Seaming multiple plies
304 Class Two thread Zig-zag stitch; a stretch lockstitch
306 Class Two thread Blind stitch
315 Class Two threads Three step zig-zag
Seams & Stitches

400 Class stitch: Multi-thread chain stitch
 Using one or more needle threads and one or more looper threads
Seaming multiple
401 Class Two threads plies with moderate
stretch
Topstitching or
404 Class Two threads
seaming with stretch
"Bottom cover stitch;

406 Class Three threads a (greater) stretch
chain stitch
Seams & Stitches

500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread over edge chain stitch
 Using needle thread(s) and looper thread(s)
One needle over edge stitch for

501 Class One thread serging / “blanket stitch"
One needle over edge stitch for

502 Class Two thread serging
503 Class Two thread Over edge stitch for serging with
crossover on edge of fabric
Over edge stitch for serging and

504 Class Three thread
light seaming
Seams & Stitches
500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread over edge chain stitch
 Using needle thread(s) and looper thread(s)
512 Class Four Thread Mock safety stitch for seaming with
wide bite and greater stretch for knits
514 Class Four Thread Over edge stitch for seaming with wide
bite and greater stretch for knits
True safety stitch for seaming with

515 Class Four Thread
good stretch for wovens and knits
True safety stitch for seaming with

516 Class Five Thread
good stretch for wovens and knits
Stitch Seams & Stitches

classification

600 Class Stitch: Multi-thread cover stitches
Cover stitch or
602 Class Four thread
seaming knits
605 Class Five thread Cover stitch
607 Class Six thread Wide cover stitch
Quality department
Quality department
Responsibilities of quality department
To impart quality in the product.
To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers.
To restrict the defects entering into the final product.
Main function of quality department is to carry out inspection.
Inspection can be defined as the visual examination or review of raw materials, partially
finished components of the garments and completely finished garments in relation to some
standards, specifications, or requirements, as well as measuring the garments to check if they
meet the required measurements.
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

Quality department
Principle of inspection (inspection loop)
Inspection
Correction of Detection of
defects defects
Feedback of
Determination
these defects
of causes of
to appropriate
defects
personnel

Quality department
How much to inspect ?
 No inspection
 100% inspection
 Spot checking- inspecting random shipments
 Arbitrary sampling-10% sampling
 Statistical sampling or acceptance sampling-flexibility with regard to the amount of

inspection to be performed

Quality department
Inspection terms
 Sample: A sample consists of one or more units of a product drawn from a lot or batch, the
units of the sample being selected at random without regards to their quality. The number
of units of a product in the sample is the sample size.
 Lot or batch: Means ‘Inspection lot’ or ‘Inspection Batch’, that is a collection of units of a
product from which a sample is to be drawn and inspected.
 Lot or batch size: The lot or batch size is the number of units of a product in a lot or batch
 Percent defective = Number of defectives × 100
Number of units inspected

Quality department
Identification of defects
 Major Defect: A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would cause the item
to be second.
 Minor Defect: A defect that would not cause the product to be termed as a second either
because of severity or location.
 Second: A ‘Second’ is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects the saleability or
serviceability of the item.

Quality department
Spreading defects
Possible Pattern Defects:
 Pattern parts missing  Skimpy marking
 Mixed parts  Generous marking
 Patterns not facing in the correct direction  Marker too wide
on napped fabrics  Not enough knife clearance
 Patterns not all facing in the same freedom
direction on a one-way fabric  Mismatched checks and stripes
 Patterns not aligned with respect to the  Notches and drill marks omitted,
fabric grain indistinct, or misplaced
 Line definition poor

Quality department
Cutting defects
 Frayed edges
 Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges
 Ply-to-ply fusion
 Single-edge fusion
 Pattern precision- Under-cut, Over-cut
 Notches
 Drills

Quality department
Sewing defects
 Needle Damage  Pleated seams
 Feed Damage  Wrong stitch density
 Skipped stitches  Uneven stitch density
 Thread breaks  Staggered stitch
 Broken stitches  Improperly formed stitches
 Seam grin  Oil spots or stains
 Seam pucker

Quality department
Seaming defects
 Incorrect or uneven width of inlay
 Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line
 Insecure back stitching
 Twisted seam
 Mismatched checks or stripes
 Mismatched seam
 Extraneous part caught in a seam, an unrelated piece showing through the seam
 Reversed garment part
 Blind stitching showing on the face side
 Wrong seam or stitch type used
 Wrong shade of thread used

Quality department
Assembly defects
 Finished components nor correct to size or shape or not symmetrical.
 Finished garment not to size
 Parts, components, closures or features omitted
 Components or features wrongly positioned or misaligned
 Interlining incorrectly positioned
 Lining too full, too tight, showing below the bottom of the garment, twisted,
 Garment parts cockling, pleated, twisted, showing bubbles and fullness
 Garment parts shaded
 Parts in one-way fabrics in wrong direction
 Mismatched trimming

Quality department
Checks for final inspection
 Open seams  Snaps, fasteners, buttons
 Skipped stitches  Labels
 Cracked stitches  Elastic
 Stitches/inch  Measurements
 Uneven seams  Mends or repairs
 Crooked, puckered, curled, pleated seams  Stripe
 Needle and feed cuts  Hems
 Unclipped threads and Long ends  Trim
 Raw edge  Broken needle
 Distortion

Quality department
AQL: Accepted quality level
 The AQL is the maximum percent defective that, for the purpose of sampling inspection
can be considered satisfactory as a process average.
 The AQL is a designated value of percent defective that the customer indicates will be
accepted most of the time by the acceptance sampling procedures to be used.

Quality department
Sample size code letters
Lot or Batch Size Sample size code letter

2 to 8 A
9 to 15 B
16 to 25 C
26 to 50 D
51 to 90 E
91 to 150 F
151 to 280 G
281 to 500 H
501 to 1200 J
1201 to 3200 K
3201 to 10000 L
10001 to 35000 M
Quality department
Sampling Plans
Sample Size Code Sample
Letter Size Acceptable Quality Level
2.5 4 6.5 10
Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re
A 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2
B 3 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2
C 5 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2
D 8 0 1 1 2 1 2 2 3
E 13 1 2 1 2 2 3 3 4
F 20 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6
G 32 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8
H 50 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11
J 80 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15
K 125 7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22
L 200 10 11 14 15 21 22 21 22
M 315 14 15 21 22 21 22 21 22
Finishing and
packaging department
Finishing and packaging department
 Finishing is the last stage of garment production where garment gets its final look.
 In this department each garment undergoes different finishing processes.
 It undergoes for quality check for several number of time which sets the garment free
from defects.
 Buyer specifications and instructions are strictly maintained.

Operations performed at finishing stage
 Thread cutting: Uncut threads affect the presentation of finished and packed garments.
Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the loose and uncut threads.
 Stain removal: Removal of the following type of stains:
Oil, yellow, black and paint spots, stains due to color bleeding, ink, rust, tracing marks,
yellow stains, and hard stains
 Seam ironing: Ironing of garments using steam ironing tables with vacuum boards.
 Final finishing: The entire garment is finished using various finishing equipments.

 Tagging and packing: The pass pieces are brought to the tagging and packing section. It
is the responsibility of the packing supervisors to provide the tagging operators with
the appropriate price and brand tags. He also instructs the tagging operator as to where
and how the tag has to be placed. The most important thing to be kept in mind while
placing the tag is to match the size mentioned on the main label and the size on tag.
The step after the tagging is to pack the garments as per the specification of the buyer.

Presentation checking and cartoon packing
It is very important to check the packed garments for presentation. Checkers check the
packed garments for the following things:
 Poly bags are as per specification.
 Tags and price stickers are as per specification.
 Packing is secured or not if specified.
 Poly bags should not be soiled and torn.
 Hangers are there or not if specified.
 Garment has been folded as per specification etc.

Presentation checking and cartoon packing
Once, checking is done they send the garments for the carton packing. The following things
are kept in mind during carton packing:
 Number of garments to be packed in one carton.
 Ratio asked for example S:M:L=2:1:1
 Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified.
 Closing the cartons with cello tape.
 Sealing the cartons with plastic cord.
 Writing on carton information like: Store or buyer name, buyer's address, ratio, net
weight of the carton etc.

Thank you

Apparel Production

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Apparel Production

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Apparel Production

 The clothing industry is labour intensive industry.

Spreading & Quality

Finishing & Finance and

Pre production Raw material Raw material

Getting the fit Getting

Preparing internal order sheets

Accessories & trims

Preparing purchase orders

Merchandiser Getting approvals on lab dips and bit looms

Mediating production and quality departments

Taking responsibility for inspections

Giving shipping instructions and following shipment

 Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser.

 Checking pattern’s workability.

 Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s approval.

 Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing samples, to QC.

 Minimizing operations and consumption.

• PP sample is considered to be a contract between the buyer and the factory.

 Fabric inspection (four point system)

 Conduct fabric test (e.g. Shrinkage, colour fastness etc.)

 Issue to the production department as per the requirement

 Perform shrinkage test.

 Check the fabric for the bowing or skewing.

 Check fabric roll for the defects. for:

 To check material for attribute & variables.

 To arrange the incoming material in allocated racks.

Spreads Markers Production

It translates customer orders into cutting orders

 seek most effective use of labor, equipment, fabric and space

 Developing specifications for optimum marker making and fabric utilization

 Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and cutting

Marker planning Lay planning

 Spreading and cutting schedules are affected by:

 spreading time and

Block or section marker

 Tracing by pencil or tailor’s chalk.

 Accuracy depends on individual’s skill.

 Shortest response time.

 Manipulate images to determine best utilization. No overlapping/no omissions

 Criteria can be set by technician. Can be used to determine fabric requirement.

Factors affecting marker efficiency

 Shape of Pattern pieces (large pieces – less flexibility)

Requirement of spreading Spreading equipment

 Elimination of fabric faults

 Avoidance of distortion in the spread

 A ply cutting device with automatic catcher to hold the ends of

 An alignment shifter actuated by photo electric edge guides

 A direct drive on the fabric support, synchronized with the speed

Nap either way &

Nap either way &

Face one way Nap one

Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005

 Difficult to achieve manually.

Face to Nap either

Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005

Face to Nap one

Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005

Face one way Nap either

Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005

Portable cutting Stationary Position

One way thrust as the circular

Straight knife Round knife