AATCC TM179-2019

Skew Change in Fabrics After

Home Laundering

AATCC TM207-2019
Seam Twist in Garments Before
and After Home Laundering
 Purpose and Scope (TM179)
• Determine the change in skew of woven
and knitted fabrics as a result of home
laundering

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 Purpose & Scope (TM207)
• Determines the seam twist of garments
before, as well as after, home laundering
• Intended for garments with vertical seams

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 ASTM D3882
Bow and Skew in Woven & Knitted Fabrics

• Determination of bow and skew of filling

yarns in woven fabrics and the courses in
knitted fabrics.
• Can also be used to measure the bow and
skew of printed geometric designs.
• Original state
AATCC TM179 & TM207
 Terminology
Skew (n)
• A fabric condition resulting when filling
yarns or knitted courses are angularly
displaced from a line perpendicular to the
edge or side of the fabric.

←Selvage→
Fill Yar
n
Skew

Perpendicular Line

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 Skew

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 Terminology
Seam twist (n)
• a rotation, usually lateral,
between different panels of
a garment connected by a
seam.
NOTE: Seam twist may also be
referred to as twist, torque or
spirality.

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 Terminology
Bow (n)
• a fabric condition resulting when filling
yarns or knitting courses are displaced
from a line perpendicular to the selvages
and form one or more arcs across the
width of fabric.

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 How Skew Happens
• Uneven distribution of tension
 Weaving/knitting
 Dyeing
 Tentering
 Finishing
 Other operations
• Uneven release of tension in laundering

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 Why Skew Matters
• Aesthetic problems
 Particularly plaids and stripes
 Matching patterns
• Sewing problems
• Draping problems

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 Intentional Skew
• Prevents twisting in denim & twill
pant legs

• 1976 Levi Strauss & Co. patent:

Method of skewing twill fabric to avoid
leg twist (US 3959826 A)

• ~8% counterclockwise skew for

14-oz right hand twill
AATCC TM179 & TM207
 Materials
• Conditioning facilities and racks
• Indelible marking pens
• Ruler with 0.1-in. or 1-mm markings
• Right triangle or L-square (for TM179)
• Digital imaging system (optional, for
TM179)

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 Materials
• Standard washer
 or facilities for hand wash
• Standard tumble dryer
 or facilities for drip/screen/line dry
• Standard detergent
• Ballast

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 Fabric Specimens (TM179)
• Three fabric specimens
• Marking Method 1: 380 × 380 mm (15 × 15 in)
• Marking Method 2: 380 × 660 mm (15 × 26 in)
• Test in tubular state if not intended to be cut
• Different warp and fill yarns
• Identify location (left, center, right), if applicable
• Identify face & warp direction
• May also be used for TM124, TM135
AATCC TM179
Fabric Specimens (TM179)
Different fill yarns Different warp yarns

Mark
lower right

AATCC TM179
 Fabric Specimens (TM179)
• To determine if change in skew is different
from one side of the fabric to the other

AATCC TM179
 Garment Specimens (TM179)
• Three garment specimens, if available
OR
• Three areas of two garments
• Use largest panel
• May also be used for TM143, TM150,
TM207

AATCC TM179
Garment Specimens (TM179)

AATCC TM179
 Garment Specimens (TM207)
• Three garment specimens, if available
• May also be used for TM143, TM150,
TM179
• Determine seam(s) to evaluate for twist
 Side seams
 Inseams
 Other vertical seams

AATCC TM207
 Conditioning
• ASTM D1776
• Single layer
• No tension
• Air circulation through
and around
• 21°C ±2°C (70°F ±4°F)
• 65% ±5% relative humidity (RH)
• Conditioned = moisture equilibrium
AATCC TM179 & TM207
Fabric Marking Method 1 (TM179)
B C

Warp
A D

AATCC TM179
Garment Marking Method 1 (TM179)
• Bottom edge as reference
• If not straight, draw
reference line 250 mm
B C
perpendicular to the
vertical axis of symmetry

250 mm
• All marks ≥ 75 mm (3 in)
from lower edge.
A 75 mm D

AATCC TM179
Marking Method 2 (TM179)
380 mm

660 mm

Y Z

75 mm
AATCC TM179
Marking Method 2 (TM179)
B
20

500 mm (20 in)

480 mm (19 in)
15

10

Y Z

AATCC TM179
Method 2, Simplified (TM179)
B
20

15

10
20

5
15

10

Y Z

AATCC TM179
 Marking (TM207)
• Lay specimen in “natural configuration”
• First seam visible
• Smooth all panels (do not stretch)
• Mark A at lower edge of seam
• Mark B 25 mm below intersection with
cross seam
• Measure AB

AATCC TM207
Twist Before Laundering (TM207)
• If seam falls along natural fold,
original twist distance is 0.
• If seam is NOT along fold, mark A' at
lower edge of fold.
• Measure AA'

• Measure AB and AA' (if applicable)

for all desired seams.
AATCC TM207
 Wash: Traditional Top-Loading Washer

• 1.8-kg or 3.6-kg (4 lb or 8 lb) load

• 66 g AATCC 1993 Standard Reference
Detergent (for either load size)

• Fill drum with water

• Add detergent
• Agitate to dissolve detergent
• Add load, distributing around agitator
AATCC TM179 & TM207
 Wash: High Efficiency (HE) Washer
• 1.8-kg (4 lb) load
• 50 mL AATCC HE Standard Reference
Detergent

• Add detergent
• Add load
• Run cycle

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 Wash: Hand Wash
• Refer to Monograph 5, Standardization of
Hand Laundering for Fabrics and Apparel
• Add detergent to water
• Add sample (no ballast)
• Soak
• Squeeze
• Rinse
• Repeat
AATCC TM179 & TM207
 Dry
• Tumble dry
• Line dry
• Drip dry
• Screen (flat) dry

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 Launder
• Complete 3 full wash/dry cycles
• Dry after every wash

A S H
W

DRY

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 Re-Condition
• Spread or hang specimens
• Precondition (if needed)
• Condition

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 Measurement Option 1 (TM179)
Diagonal Lines
C
Measure & record:
• AC
• BD B

ALL
measurements
to nearest 1 mm
or 0.1 in
D

A
For use with Marking Method 1
AATCC TM179
 Measurement Option 2 (TM179)
Offset Marks
• Extend Line AD
• Mark A' & D' C
• Measure & record:
AA', DD'
AB, CD B

D'
D

A'
A For use with Marking Method 1
Measurement Option 3 (TM179)
Single Offset Mark
B For use with Marking
Method 2

• Mark A'
• Measure & record:
AA'
AB

Z
Y A' ALL measurements to
A nearest 1 mm or 0.1 in

AATCC TM179
 Measurement After Laundering
(TM207)
• Lay specimen in “natural configuration”
• First seam visible
• Smooth all panels (do not stretch)
• Mark A' at lower edge of natural side fold
• Measure AA'

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 Skew Direction
• Skew direction is based on the apparent
shift of the bottom edge.
• Indicate left or right skew in report.

w Rig
s k e ht ske
ef t w
L

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 Calculation Option 1 (TM179)
C

D
A
• X = |100% × [2(AC - BD)/(AC + BD)]|
• X = % change in skew
• (Report whether bottom edge skewed
right or left)
AATCC TM179
 Calculation Option 2 (TM179)
C

D'
D
A'
A

• X = 100% × [(AA' + DD')/(AB + CD)]

• X = % change in skew
• (Report whether Point A shifted right or left)
AATCC TM179
Calculation Option 3 (TM179)

B
• X = 100 ×
(AA'/AB)
• X = % change in
skew
• (Report whether
Point A shifted right
Z or left)
Y A'
A

AATCC TM179
Calculation Summary (TM179)
All measurements to nearest 1 mm or 0.1 in
Calculate change in skew to nearest 0.1%

• Option 1
X = |100 × [2(AC-BD)/(AC+BD)]|
• Option 2
X = 100 × [(AA'+DD')/(AB+CD)]
• Option 3
X = 100 × (AA'/AB)

AATCC TM179
Calculation Summary (TM179)
• Average results for all specimens of a
specific fabric or garment.

• For comparisons across fabric width,

average each area (left, middle, right)
separately.
_
X = (X1 +X2 + X3) / 3

AATCC TM179
 Calculation (TM207)
Twist Before Laundering
• X0 = 100% × (AA'/AB)
 X0 = seam twist before laundering (%)
 AB = seam length before laundering (mm or
in.)
 AA' = twist distance before
laundering (mm or in.)

AATCC TM207
 Calculation (TM207)
Twist After Laundering
• Xn = 100% × (AA''/AB)
 Xn = seam twist after n laundering cycles (%)
 AB = seam length before laundering (mm or
in.)
 AA'' = twist distance after
n laundering cycles (mm
or in.)

AATCC TM207
 Calculation (TM207)
Change in Twist
• Xc = X n – X 0
 Xc = change in seam twist after laundering (%)

AATCC TM207
 Notes
• Determine acceptable skew change or
twist limits before testing.

• For measurements at multiple endpoints

(e.g., 1 & 3 washes), use separate marks
for each (e.g., A' & A'').

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 Notes (TM179)
• Compare data ONLY if the same marking
method and calculation option was used

• If change in skew is within limits at first

endpoint, continue testing.
• If change in skew exceeds limits at first
endpoint, terminate the test.

AATCC TM179
 Notes (TM207)
• Compare data ONLY if the same
seam was measured

• Xn (total twist after laundering) is

usually most relevant for pass/fail
evaluation
• Xc (change in twist) is more
important for seams not initially
along garment sides
AATCC TM207
 Report
• Sample description/identification
• AATCC TM179-2017 or TM207-2017
• Number of specimens
• Number of laundering cycles
• Marking method (TM179)
• Calculation option (TM179)
• Modifications of standard method

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 Report
• Laundering conditions
 Ballast type
 Load size
 Washing machine (if applicable)
 Dryer (if applicable)
 Procedures, settings & temperatures
 Detergent

AATCC TM179 & TM207

 Report (TM179)
• For each sample:
 Average % change in skew for sample
 Average % change per area (if applicable)
 Direction of skew

AATCC TM179
 Report (TM207)
• For each seam type:
 Seam description and/or location
 Number of seams averaged
 Average % twist before laundering (X0)
 Average % twist after laundering (Xn)
 % change in twist after laundering (Xc)

AATCC TM207