Construction Work process

• Site investigation
• Site preparation- site clearance & setting out by 3-4-5 method
• Earth work- Excavation, fill & disposal
• Structural work- sub str.(foundation) & super str.(beams,
column & slab ) & roofing structure.
• Wall & installation- wall(internal & external) installation
(sanitary & electric line)
• Roofing works- roof covers, ceiling & water proofing
• Door & window works- metal, wooden, aluminum & glass works
• Finishing works- wall, floor & other finishing
• Electrical & Sanitary works- fixture & appliances work
• External site works
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 Steps in Construction
• Start building a concrete masonry wall by locating the corners of the
structure.
• In locating the corners, also make sure the footing or slab formation is
level so that each Builder starts each section wall on a common plane.
• This also helps ensure that the bed joints are straight when the
sections are connected.
• If the foundation is badly out of level, the entire first course should be
laid before Builders begin working on other courses.

2
Cont’d

3
Cont’d

4
Cont’d

5
 Cont’d

• For the vertical joints, apply mortar only to the block ends by placing
several blocks on end and buttering them all in one operation, as
shown in Figure 8-16. Make the joints 3/8 inch thick.
• Then, place each block in its final position, and push the block down
vertically in to the mortar bed and against the previously laid block.
This ensures a well filled vertical mortar joint.

6
Cont’d

7
Cont’d

8
Cont’d

9
Cont’d

10
Cont’d

11
Cont’d

12
Cont’d

13
Cont’d

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 Cont’d

• Make all position adjustments while the mortar is soft and plastic.
• Any adjustments after the mortar stiffens will break the mortar bond
and allow water to penetrate.
• Level each block and align it to the mason’s line by tapping it lightly
with a trowel handle.
• Before installing the closure block, butter both edges of the opening
and all four vertical edges of the closure block with mortar.

15
 Cont’d

• Then lower the closure block carefully in to place as shown in Figure

8-26. If any mortar falls out, leaving an open joint, remove the block
and repeat the procedure.

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 Cont’d

• Weather tight joints and the neat appearance of concrete masonry

walls depend on proper striking, or tooling.
• After laying a section of the wall, tool the mortar joint when the
mortar becomes thumb print hard.
• Tooling compacts the mortar and forces it tightly against the masonry
on each side of the joint.
• Use either concave or V-shaped tooling on all joints, as shown in
Figure 8-28.

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 Cont’d
• Tool horizontal joints as
shown in Figure 8-29 with a
long jointer first, followed
by tooling the vertical
joints as shown in Figure 8-
30.
• Trim off mortar burrs from
the tooling flush with the
wall face using a trowel or
a soft bristle brush or by
rubbing with a burlap bag.
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Cont’d

19
 Cont’d
•A procedure known as pointing may be required after
jointing.
•Pointing is the process of inserting mortar in to
horizontal and vertical joints after the unit has been laid.
•Pointing is done to restore or replace deteriorated
surface mortar in old work; this is called tuck pointing.
•Pointing may be necessary in freshly laid masonry to fill
holes or correct defective joints.
•When you complete the top course, insert the bolts in to
the cores of the top two courses and fill the cores with
concrete or mortar.
•The metal lath underneath holds the concrete or mortar
filling in place. 20
Cont’d

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Patching and Cleaning Block Walls
• Always fill holes made by nails or line pins with fresh mortar and
patch mortar joints.
• When laying concrete masonry walls, be careful not to smear mortar
on the block surfaces.
• Once they harden, these smears can not be removed, even with an
acid wash, nor will paint cover them.
• Dry and hardened droppings can be chipped off with a small piece of
broken concrete block, as shown in Figure 8-49, or with a trowel, as
shown in Figure 8-50. A final brushing of the spot removes practically
all the mortar, as shown in Figure 8-51.
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Cont’d

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Pointing, Plastering and Topping

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 Introduction
• The first function of a plaster finish is to improve the
appearance of a building.
• If using a plaster is to be avoided, the building must
therefore be carefully constructed and where necessary
pointing work made.
• External plaster finishes have an additional function
which is to protect the body of the wall from
weathering.
• Pointing, plastering and topping are important
works for the correct finishing of many
construction details for a water supply system.
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 Pointing
• The reasons for pointing the surface of masonry work are to increase
its weather resistance and to give a neat looking finish to the work.

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 Cont’d
• Finishing the joints as the construction of the block
work proceeds, using ordinary mortar in which the
blocks are bedded is called struck jointing and is
much cheaper than the pointing methods.
• Another method is to finish the masonry work first
and then to make the pointing work with a 1:2
cement mortar later.
• The joints must be racked out to a depth of about 1
to 1.5 cm, brushed, washed and filled with a 1 part
cement and 2 part sand mortar.

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 Cont’d
• Pointing will help to avoid that rain water
penetrates in to the structure through the
horizontal or vertical mortar bed layers.
• For masonry in general the following mortar
pointing finishing is suitable.
A. Flush-pointing
• For un-exposed parts of buildings.
• It can be used below ground level and as
well if the wall will be plastered.

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 Cont’d
B. Curved-pointing
• Used for exposed un-plastered walls built in
burned bricks or cement-blocks.
• Especially for exposed stone masonry walls.
• 2 cm of the set mortar is scratched out of
the joints and later filled with pointing
mortar of a ratio1:3 to 1:2 as shown in the
drawing.
• This pointing is work intensive and
expensive, but has a big influence on the
quality of the structure.
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 Plastering
• Plastering is the process of covering walls with a substance which is
applied while still plastic and which hardens later.
• Plastering may be carried out in one, two, three or more coats,
depending upon the quality requirement.
• Plaster consists of the same materials as mortar
• For ordinary internal plastering it is advisable to use fine sand to
obtain after floating a smooth surface on which the application of
lime is not necessary.

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 Cont’d
• The addition of lime is appropriate for inside wall plastering, but must
be avoided for plastering exposed to water or rain because of swelling
and shrinking.
• Plastering in general is applied to protect and strengthen the
masonry, to give straightness and cleanliness to the wall surface.
• At water supply structures the use of plastering is very important for
the water proof structures.

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 Cont’d
A. Water proof plastering
Water containing structures are plastered in order to make them
completely water proof, and to achieve a smooth surface which
allows proper cleaning.
But when cement aggressive water is present additional chemical
applications are recommended to protect the cement plaster from
disintegration.

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 Cont’d
B. The Wall
Surface must be rough, clean, free from dust, and wet.
I. Spatter-dash(1:2)
The thickness is 4mm, and this coat ensures a proper
connection of the plaster to the wall.
It makes the plastering water proof.
It has to be mixed slurry with rough sand, and should
be applied with force.
If necessary (with not completely covered spots) apply
this coat twice, then allow it to set for at least 10 days,
to avoid cracks in the following coats.
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 Cont’d
II. Rendering coat (1:4)
The thickness is 15–20 mm and gives the necessary
straightness to the plastering (screeds).
Never should be floated if a setting coat is to be applied
too.
III. Setting coat (1:2)
The thickness is 2–3 mm.
This coat smooths the surface.
It can be applied immediately after the rendering coat
has set.
This coat has to be properly floated. 34
 Cont’d
IV. Cement paste (1:1)
This coat is applied
immediately after the setting
coat is floated.
It must be applied slurry
and not thicker than 1mm.
This coat ensures easy
cleaning.

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 Topping
• Topping is a cement mortar in a stiff consistency. It is
applied mostly as a coat on floors, slabs, walls etc. to
protect, give level, and cleanliness to the surface.
• The best connection to concrete slabs is achieved if
stiff topping is floated on concrete which has just
started to set.
• This is the so-called “wet into wet method” and
should be used when ever possible.
• The application of topping on old concrete requires
more work steps: chiseling and cleaning of surface,
and watering and curing before and after topping.
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 Cont’d
• When additional cement paste is required, apply the cement paste
immediately after screeching and floating the topping.

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THANK YOU!!!

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