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Clothing Artefacts - Methods of Analysis and Attribution

ECTS: 4

Katarina Nina Simončič

Associate professor, PhD


nina.simoncic@ttf.unizg.hr
INGRID MIDA, ALEXANDRA KIM (2018), The Dress Detective: A
Practical Guide to Object-Based Research in Fashion.

THE BOOK IS ONLINE

A BRIEF HISTORY OF OBJECT – BASED RESEARCH WITH DRESS


ARTIFACTS
....CLOTHING THAT IT KEPT
BEYOND ITS FASHIONABLE
LIFE OFTEN HAS
“SYMBOLIC QUALITIES”
AND HOLD “PERSONAL
MEMORIES” FOR THE
OWNER.
(Amy de la Haye)

Dior’s classic bar suit from his first


collection in 1947. Photograph: Laziz
Hamani/Victoria and Albert Museum,
London
Jacket and portrait of Margaret Layton, about 1610 V&A Museum no. T.228-1994
VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON
- opened in 1852, and established its first collection od dress

Empire style dress in Gold embroidered muslin Muslin dress, 1810, Talbot
embroidered muslin, 1800, dress, Talbot Hughes Hughes Collection
Talbot Hughes Collection Collection
METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART IN NEW YORK
- opened in 1866, but the Costume Institute was nost established until 1946

The redesigned Costume Institute space reopened in May 2014, after a two-year renovation, as the
Anna Wintour Costume Center with the exhibition Charles James: Beyond Fashion
“DRESS” AND “FASHION”

To all clothing and “the cultural construction


accessories of emboided identity”
OBJECT – BASED RESEARCH

Igor Kopytoff (1986), “The Cultural Biography of Things: Commoditization


as Process”. In A Appadurai (ed.), The Social Life of Things, Cambridge:
Cambrideg University Press: 64-91.

Daniel Miller (2014), “Material Culture”, Berg Fashion Library, online


resource. Available at: www.bergfashionlibrary.com
DORIS LANGLEY MOORE (1902-1989)

Doris Langley Moore Collection Record Card

Doris Langley Moore (around 1935)


FASHION MUSEUM IN BATH, ENGLAND
ANNE BUCK (1910-2005)

Buck, Anne: Victorian Costume and Costume Accessories (1961).


Buck, Anne, Cunnington, Phyllis: Children’s Costume in England 1300–1900 (1965)
Buck, Anne: Dress in Eighteenth Century England (1979)
Buck, Anne: Thomas Lester, His Lace and the East Midlands Industry 1820–1905 (1981)
Buck, Anne: Victorian Costume and Costume Accessories (2nd edition, 1984)
Buck, Anne: In the Cause of English Lace: the Life and Work of Catherine C. Channer 1874–
1949 (1991)
Buck, Anne: Clothes and the Child: A Handbook of Children’s Dress in England 1500–1900
(1996)
JANET ARNOLD (1932-1998)
JULES DAVID PROWN

1980 “STYLE AS EVIDENCE”, Winterthur Porfolio, 15 (3): 197-210.

....style defined as “the way something is done, produced


or expressed”

1982 “MIND IN MATTER: AN INTRODUCTION TO MATERIAL


CULTURE THEORY AND METHOD”, Winterthur Porfolio, 17 (31): 1-
19.
VALERIE STEELE

Prown methodology
...provide unique insight into the historic and aesthetic development

of fashion.
ALEXANDRA PALMER

.....assumed that we already have the necessary critical skills


to evaluate fashion, when in fact it is a reserch skill that is
learned like any other of scholarship.

The Handbook od Fashion Studies (2013)


LOU TAYLOR

Artifact based
+
Theoretical approaches

2002
Chanel outfit worn by Diana Vreeland
Judit Clark and Amy de la Haye (2014), Exhibiting Fashion: Before and After
1971

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