Professional Documents
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HIGHWAY 111
Wtiftlake. • .
FOLLOWING THE PUBLICATION of the May issue we felt we had
been hit on the head by The Balanced Rock in Arches National Monu-
CONTENTS ment near Moab, Utah. Many sharp-eyed readers informed us the
spectacular two-page color photograph in the center of the May issue
was The Balanced Rock and not Monument Valley as the caption
Volume 28 Number 6 stated. We realized the mistake as soon as we saw the first copy. We
do have a photograph of Monument Valley and somehow the printers
June, 1965 used the wrong picture. So if you want to see The Balanced Rock be
sure to go to Moab, Utah. We will print the Monument Valley photo-
graph later.
This Month's Cover
Oak Creek, Arizona
By DON VALENTINE
34 DESERT Cookery
By LUCILLE I. CARLESON Sign Gift Card: "From . "
mtmm
locking root system and many topple
over from moderate desert zephyrs. poured, spur lines laid and townsites
Though the tree is considered a nor- cut uj) into lots. As a final touch, a
mal desert flora, its distribution is little judicious trimming and prun-
erratic and found only where there ing was applied to the Joshua trees
and on each spine and spike a cull The White Mountain Apache Indians welcome you.
is usually 10 to 15 inches of moisture Come and enjoy the wonderful mountain climate,
available to supply its thirsty roots. orange impaled. "These beautiful
the beautiful primitive scenery, clear, cold streams
Thriving in areas where it is often trees, so prolific of oranges, are a and the best trout fishing in the Southwest.
the only tree, the Joshua is frequently natural growth," the spieler said.
the center of desert life. Flickers and "Their fruit will grow as big as pump- FOR INFORMATION AND MAPS, WRITE
kins!"
woodpeckers drill its trunk for nests
Joshua trees are many things to WHITE MOUNTAIN
and when they are abandoned, owls,
wrens and fly-catchers take over. The many people, but that was the only RECREATION ENTERPRISE
Scott oriole suspends its nest from time they evfir produced pumpkin- P.O. BOX 218
branches and wood rats gnaw its sized citrus fruit! /// WHITERIVER, ARIZONA
TAG-A-LONG TOURS
156 North First West
Moctb, Utah
Phone: Area Code 801, 253-4346
Send Tag-A-Long Trips Information to:
Name
Address
City _
OEARCHLIGHT, Nevada is my tains to the east; or maybe it's the or Searchlight's lusty reputation. It's
town. undulating terrain punctuated with something more intangible than that.
Such reasoning defies all natural Joshuas and mining scaffolds; or it And I'd never, until a recent week-
laws of the dust-ridden, sand-blasted, might be the rare turquoise and gold end, spent more than a few hours in
wind-driven desert and is more than ore spilling from mine tailings in the the town.
I can explain, but it's so. Maybe it's center of town. Whatever it is, it isn't Searchlight today has a permanent
the snaggle-tooth New York Moun- Willie Martello's new gambling joint population of less than 200, but it's
ESSEX
Map shows old government road to Piute Spring. Fred Carleson uses detector at his father's old mine.
(' —SOUTHERN-NEVADA- I
METAL DETECTORS
FROM $75.00 TO $165.00
RAYSCOPES
and
DETECTRONS
Write for
free brochures
BOOKS ON LOST MINES
AND BURIED TREASURE
Arizona Treasure Hunters Ghost
Town Guide, Fox $1.50
Buried Treasures and Lost Mines,
Fort Piute ruins still stand with gun Fish $1.50
ports intact. Lost Mines of Old Arizona, Weight....$1.50
Lost Mines of Death Valley, Weight $1.50
Ghost Town Directory of the West....$l .00
roads. We rounded a curve of a hill Lost Desert Bonanzas, Conrotto $6.75
Nevada Treasure Hunters Ghost
and found ourselves surrounded by Town Guide, Fox $1.50
Boy Scouts from Las Vegas. With Lost Mines and Buried Treasures
of California, Pierce $2.50
fishing in the stream, exploring the Superstition Treasures, Marlowe $2.50
old fort and following Indian trails Please add posctage.
California residents add 4 % sales tax.
through a gallery of petroglyphs, Also Lapidary Equipment, Gems and
these boys had a heavy agenda. Huge Minerals, Books, Jewelry, Tools.
bisnaga marched up the hill, each For Information Write
fat barrel ready to explode into COMPTON ROCK SHOP
bloom and groves of cottonwood 1405 S. Long Beach Blvd., Compton, Calif.
trees spread shade along the banks Telephone. 632-9096
by a Las Vegan who has sunk other
shafts in the area and the tailings of the bubbling stream. From the
looked mighty rich. Appraising the hard rock floor of this borderland
between Nevada and California des-
results ol the hard work that had
gone into hand-digging his old 100-
foot shaft, Fred commented that he
ert land it was a refreshing and un-
expected retreat.
SCENIC TOURS
The sturdy fort still stands in ruin, HISTORIC MINING AND
was glad someone was able to make
use of it. They had taken out only its gun ports framing the twists of GHOST TOWNS OF
enough ore to encourage them to Old Government Road as it winds OWENS VALLEY
keep digging, but the new owners toward Dead Mountain. Established
must have dug deeper because the in the early 1860s, there is little pub-
lished about this interesting redoubt
LONE PINE, CALIF.
Carlesons didn't hit water there.
in spite of its important proportions.
In fact, they had to go to Piute Most references refer to it as Fort TRIP ONE 11 Hours
Springs for their water, some eight Piute, but we found one that called Monday, Wednesday, Friday
miles west. It used to be Fred's job it Fort Beal. The most logical reason $22.50 person, minimum 3 fares
to drive the buckboard over to the for its existence was to provide
spring and fill the water barrel. A TRIP TWO 5 Hours
asylum for soldiers constructing the
tribe of Indians lived there and, al- Old Government Road, a route in- Tuesday, Thursday,
though they weren't particularly stituted to protect Western migrants Saturday, Sunday
friendly, they didn't ever give the and to maintain open supply lines $12.50 person, minimum 3 fares.
Carlesons any trouble. Fred said they between Camp Cady to the east and
just sort of looked at him and grunt- TRIP THREE 5 Hours
Fort Mojave on the Colorado River.
ed the first time he came, but after Apparently Indian troubles ceased Tuesday, Thursday,
they grew accustomed to his visits soon after its construction and, as its Saturday, Sunday
they ignored him completely. role was short-lived, history forgot it $8.50 person, minimum 3 fares.
Fred hadn't explored the area of fast. Special Rates to groups of 15 or
the spring while the Indians were in As we turned to leave, fearing we'd more on all trips.
residence, so we followed the Old have to navigate the winding dirt Charter Service Available
Government Road leading from the roads back to the highway in dark-
mine to abandoned Irwin Ranch and ness, the sun faded behind the moun- Write for detailed information on
on to Piute Springs to see if there tains. With ruins to explore, petro- these and other trips
was anything left of an old fort des- glyphs to photograph and a lazy, CHUCK AND EVA WHITNEY
cribed in an article that appeared in shady stream enticing us to relax, Owners
DESERT Magazine in October, 1962. it wasn't easy to step on the throttle. Phone: TRipoly 6-34S1 or TRipoly 6-2281
The road was in fairly good condi- But one thing for sure, we'll be back. P. O. Box 327
tion, if you don't object to rough Ill
LONE PINE, CALIFORNIA
IFTY YEARS ago anyone ventur- chicken or Mexican food (we do) and
ing south of the border took his life because it's owned by our friend Tijuana and on the left hand side of
in his hands. This is still true today Ricardo Castillo and his brothers the highway are the adobe ruins of
it you're looking for trouble. But if Ricardo is known to DESERT readers La Mision. This was not the original
your interests are legitimate and as the amateur archeologist who ac- site of mission San Miguel de la
you re looking for nothing more vio- companies many of the Erie Stanley Frontera founded in 1787 by Domini-
lent than the strum of a guitar or Gardner adventures recounted in his can friar Luis Sales. That was seven
healthful relaxation, you have about books and on these pages. miles inland, but probablv didn't
asmuch chance of getting bumped consist ol much in the way of con-
off by a bandit in Baja as you would Polio de Castillo restaurant is on struction as the mission was moved
by the mafia in Las Vegas. the far end of the main thoroughfare to this location only a year later.
of Tijuana at a turn of the main high-
Our most recent expedition to Baia way to Ensenada. It's on the right- In a letter written to a friend in
was with Henrietta and Slim Barnard hand side of the street and you have Spain, Fr. Sales mentioned that after
the Happy Wanderers" of television to look hard to see it because it's a Heavy rains he often walked beside a
renown, who invited us to join them tiny place. Usually a pair of Senor- stream bed and picked up nuggets of
as guests on their weekly travelogue itas are patting tortillas in the win- gold. Whether he referred to this
Slim planned the trip-* triangle tour dow and inside there are counters location or the former is unknown
lrom Tijuana to Ensenada and back where barbecued chicken may be pur- but the fact that we never seem to
to the border town of Tecate where chased to take with you, or eaten have time to explore this area with
we had reservations at the European- lamily style at one of the long tables a metal detector is one of our bi&e
type spa, Rancho La Puerta. It isn't a fancy place, but it's clean I lustrations.
To avoid congestion at the border and the Mexican food is superb. Father Sales was an interesting let-
P e i i m ^ t h ^ B a r n a r d s for lunch at There's a lot to do in this lively- ter writer and his epistles sent to
Polio de Castillo in Tijuana. We border town, but our interests run Spain provide the only information
chose this restaurant because it's a more toward exploring old missions relative to early days in this area. Al-
good place for lunch if you like and watching fishermen drag in lob- though he seems to have nourished
ster traps, so we sped toward En- a rather low opinion of the natives
senada. About 37 miles south of he was impressed with their adapta-
Left: Senonta pats tortillas in win-
dow of Polio de Castillo restaurant
Center: Old Hotel Iturbide was lively
spa for the British. Right: Only its
foundation remain today.
Cartographer Howard Durke's map shows Happy Wanderer's triangle trip from Tijuana to Ensenada and to Tecate.
lion to the arid land and commented that the Spanish gave the Russians the gold placers. Nevertheless, Brit-
in one letter that by holding the much competition in rendering the ish made history here. The first golf
pulpy leaf of an agave in their otter extinct, which had just about course on the whole American conti-
mouths they were able to travel for been accomplished by 1911. Today, nent was established to keep them ac-
many days without tasting water. happily, sea otters thrive in protected tive during the 14 years their wives
The sea, he wrote, compensated waters further south along the coast. sipped tea on the broad verandas of
for the sterile land and yielded an the luxurious Hotel Iturbide, now an
Ensenada, about 27 miles south of empty
abundant supply of otter, the skins La Mision and on the north shore foundation overlooking the
of which were in demand by the Chi- of Bahia de Todos Santas (Bay of bay.
nese and Japanese. Russia had de- All Saints) , was once the jumping off Today Ensenada enjoys another
veloped a lucrative trade in this mar- place for Baja's most nefarious spe- boom. Cantinas, vendors, shops,
ket by the 18th century, until Spain, culators. Far enough from the U.S. hotels, motels and trailer parks line
eager to obtain Chinese quicksilver border to evade exposure by honor- the streets and highways in lively pro-
necessary to their mining industry, able businessmen and distant enough fusion. Modern port facilities are
urged its missionaries to go into com- to glamorize potential investors, it equipped to handle 4000 bales of cot-
petition by trading Indian fishermen experienced an early boom unequal- ton trucked in annually from Mexi-
useful goods for the precious skins. led by any other Baja community. cali as well as other export cargo, and
For a celibate priest, Father Sales Shipping at this time actually rivaled private yachts and fishing boats
possessed a jolly imagination. "The that of San Francisco. bobble in the harbor. But tourism
otter skins are used to create long In 1882 the International Company ber is the big business. There are a num-
gowns for the Chinese and Japanese of Mexico launched a grand coloniz- cansofneedn't
good places to stay and Ameri-
worry about the food
and short capes for their ladies," he ing scheme. Streets were laid out
wrote to his friend in Spain. "They for a "city of the future," rich with in first rate restaurants. After all,
make a lovely sight, are warm, soft extravagant promises. Then money our Mexican friends want us to
and serve to make generation more ran short and the whole hysterical come back.
active!" project was sold to a British syndicate Hussong's Cantina is one of the
It later letters he lamented that which was developing a mining in- few remaining landmarks of the great
a mining industry here could never dustry at El Alamo. By 1889 Ensen- "British Concession." Like celebrated
be successful due to lack of funds, ada had become little more than a Harry's Bar in Paris or Sloppy Joe's
supplies and water so it's doubtful way station for miners en route to in old Havana, it's a stop visiting
CAUFOBNJA_ . ..<£
BAJACAUFORNIA
Tuscpn
SanXaviardeiBcJ
'^%-^. Tube
iTubutama
known Yuma Desert directly to the Colorado in search of new tribes—and the Colorado. He
River, but was persuaded by some Pimas to go traveled parallel to the Cocopah Mountains to a
first to the Gila River. Swinging north, he paid point west of the Cajuenche village of San Jacome,
a short visit to the Pima people, then continued then returned to the Yumas at San Pablo. Having
downstream along the Gila looking for its junction been "entertained" through a sleepless night by a
with the Colorado. However, because the Gila pow wow, Garces again set out to the west. Trav-
was greatly swollen and did not show its usual eling alone across the August desert he passed a
increase where the two rivers met, Garces passed black hill, which he appropriately called Cerro
this point without recognizing it and for 13 days Prieto, and continued to the foot of the Santa
continued down what he believed to be the Gila. Rosa mountains. Here he discovered the San
Enroute, he met some Yuma Indians and asked Felipe Creek Pass which later contributed to the
their chief, later known as Salvador Palma, to take success of the Anza expedition and established the
him to the Colorado. Twice Palma took him down land route from Sonora to the California coast.
the river as far as Cerro de San Pablo (now Pilot On his journey back to Sonoita, Garces again cross-
Knob), but Garces still refused to believe he was ed the Yuma Desert, apparently unalterably con-
on the Colorado River and Palma would go no vinced that he had failed to find the Colorado
further into enemy territory. River!
Traveling under great difficulties, Garces con- By the time Garces returned from his exploits,
tinued down the Colorado alone and reached tide- he had traveled over 780 miles, crossed the desolate
water, but was forced to return north because of Yuma Desert in two places, opened a new trail from
lagoons and swamps. With the aid of some Caju- the Gulf of California to Alta California and in
enche Indians, he finally crossed the Colorado, still so doing became the first white man to cross the
believing it to be the Gila, and headed northwest dreaded Colorado Desert. ///
Poo/ Palm Desert Country Club. Background shows carefree homes along the fairway.
N O MORE girl-watching around a mellow ogre in retirement. If he Dublin, the average life of prehis-
the water-cooler. No more clock- has been withdrawn and anti-social toric man was only 18 years. About
watching and half-hour coffee breaks all of his life, he is free to crawl into 2000 years ago in Rome it was 22
on company time. After many years his shell when he bows out of the years, and during George Washing-
of service a faithful employee is about job. ton's time it was only about 35 years.
to hear the boss's final command, There are predictions now of a 150
"At Ease!" There are now some 23 million year life span for our grandchildren.
employees covered by private pens-
Every indispensable man in in- ions in the United States, with an With the coming population ex-
dustry becomes an ex-indispensable estimated one million added each plosion of the "clover crowd" (which
man someday. When an eager bea- year. These employee benefit plans promises to be a block-buster), there
ver's job develops a "lived-in" quality, have one fault in common—they are will be a continuing need for senior
it's time for him to turn in his wash- all set up in terms of dollars. There's citizen centers offering an active ex-
room key, shake hands with his fel- nothing wrong with money, we all istence at reasonable prices. Many
low employees and walk out into a like to have it around; but "Man outstanding retirement communities,
new world of happiness and satisfy- does not live by bread alone." His adult condominiums, cooperative
ing experiences. At this point he has urgent need is for guidance and pre- apartments, mobile home parks, etc.,
the opportunity to change the popu- paration for a full measure of worth- are available in Southern California.
lar expression of a prominent labor while living during his latter years. These popular villages tempt mem-
leader from, "Too old to work and In fact, there are so many important bers of the geriatric set with every
too young to die," to "Too old for things that money can't buy, it's a type of recreational facility. The
the job, but young enough to have wonder the commodity is so popular! physical menu consists of all kinds of
a ball!" games, with the possible exception
From the National Council On The of leapfrog. A newcomer is over-
The initiate into the unregimented Aging (New York) we learn that the whelmed for a while, like a kid in a
regime should realize that retirement ranks of the relaxed in the U. S. are room full of toys. Eventually he picks
does not really change anyone—but it bursting at the seams—with over 18 up his favorite "toys" and settles
does have a mellowing effect on the million in the "sunset group" at pre- down to a satisfying routine of play
individual. This is a gradual process sent and an increase of more than ;md social activity.
rather than an abrupt modification one thousand each day. A contribut-
of the person. For example; if one ing factor is the longer life span medi- When one is let out to pasture he
has been an ogre throughout his years cal science has achieved for us. Ac- is free to choose his own "grazing
of employment, he will slowly become cording to statistician Dr. Louis I. field." Those who select the desert
22 / Desert Magazine / June, 1965
When your career comes to rest there are many places on or near the desert to enjoy retirement—mobile
home parks, homesteads or planned retirement communities, to name a few. From time to time DESERT
will endeavor to cover the pros and cons of each type of retirement residence.
for their golden age grazing will find and a motel provides the opportun- The author noted a slight indica-
a relaxed, health-giving atmosphere ity for retirees to "try before they tion of class distinction between the
that is unequalled elsewhere. The fol- buy." two levels while chatting with some
lowing information on some of the Although the accepted retirement of the residents. A woman pointed
attractive senior citizen "pastures" on age in industry is 65, the citizens of out that, "The old folks live over
or within a short driving distance of Sun City average only 62. According here in these beautiful homes, but
the Southern California desert, may to the management, the only prob- up in that section anyone can live."
be helpful to active retirees who are lems they've had are the natural ones However, the policy of allowing fam-
searching for just the right spot. of adjustment. It takes time for some ily groups to enjoy carefree living in
people to fit into a new way of this beautiful setting is a good one.
PALM DESERT COUNTRY CLUB, in
Coachella Valley at Palm Desert, en- life after many years of strict routine. ROSSMORE LEISURE WORLD (Lagu-
joys an ideal warm climate conducive Because of the age restriction the na Hills) is about seven miles from
to year-round use of its recreational residents are all senior citizens, but Laguna Beach. Although it is less
facilities. The population is about visiting friends and relatives add a than a year old the population is
1600 and there are now no age re- touch of youthfulness to the scene, 2500, with a prediction of 30,000
strictions. Originally named Palm which is refreshing. for the future. The age requirement
City, with a 50 year age requirement, RANCHO BERNADO, located in the
is over 52 years. Prices for apart-
it was California's first large-scale ac- rolling hills on the outskirts of San ments are $11,095 to $13,795 and
tive retirement community. Prices Diego, has beauty and charm. The up. Monthly payments, around $175,
for homes and apartments range architecture, in most cases, subtly include the membership fee and
from $13,500 to $21,000. Membership compliments the setting while echo- many other items. There is a stock
in P.D.C.C. Association is mandatory ing the Rancho's Spanish heritage. purchase arrangement in connection
and costs $2.00 per month per per- The present population is 2500, with with the occupancy of an apartment.
son. Motel accommodations are a projection to 37,000 at some future This community is one of three
available for guests and temporary date. A unique feaure is the age "Leisure Worlds" in California.
residents. limit of 50 years or over for one sec- Others are planned for New Jersey,
tion, with no age requirement in the Maryland, Chicago, and even Swit-
Richard R. Oliphant, Vice President zerland.
and Project Manager of P.D.C.C, re- other sections. Homes range in price
ports that since the 50-year age re- from SI6,600 to $23,600. Apartments The first impression one has upon
quirement was dropped (in 1964) a and motel units are also available. entering is that this is a World's
change has occurred in the type of Both the prestige area for the "old Fair! At the entrance is a mammoth
residents. As before, they are afflu- folks" and the family section have globe, slowly rotating on an axis of
ent and most of them are over 50 their own recreational facilities. cascading water fountains, with the
years of age, but, instead of sitting
around playing cards and counting
their money, they are enjoying the
fine recreational facilities of the
"Club." Numerous activity groups
have been formed by the residents on
their own initiative.
The only problem experienced by
newcomers, according to Mr. Oli-
phant, is the acceptance of a de-em-
phasis of the living quarters. The
new retiree, who formerly enjoyed
luxury items in a high-priced home,
must now adapt himself to a new
way of life wherein the home itself
represents a small portion of the to-
tal living regime.
DEL WEBB'S SUN CITY is a haven
located 22 miles south of Riverside
on Highway 395. It is less than 60
miles from Palm Springs. It has
5000 residents at present and is think-
ing in terms of 100,000 people some
day. The age requirement is over 50
years. Prices for homes range from
$10,950 to $22,500. Membership fees
of $20 per year per person cover
use of all of the recreational facili- Active retirees have fun at Del Web's well-planned Sun City, near Riverside,
ties. Apartments are also available, California.
June, 1965 / Desert Magazine / 23
for a loaf of bread, it's necessary for
him to drive to the market; and, in
returning to his apartment, line up
for clearance by the guard at the
gate. By the time he arrives with the
bread, his dinner is cold.
The one threat to the peace and
tranquility of any of these self-con-
tained communities is progress. As
they grow it is natural for traffic to
increase, bringing noise and confu-
sion. The original concept of a re-
laxed spot for 2000 retirees turns into
a tremendous complex with 50,000
people milling around wondering why
they ran away from a busy city in the
first place. Fortunately, one can en-
joy many happy years before the
growth reaches this stage. On the
desert it is still possible to thrill to
the matchless glory of the sunrise and
the fiery magnificence of the sunset
without having to peek between
high buildings and neon signs!
The newly retired, planning to re-
Living is easy at Rossmore Leisure locate in a golden age village, should
Worlds near Laguna Beach. be reminded of the possible need for
(please excuse the expression) money.
The recipe for a happy retirement
water shooting half way up South buildings, and a shopping plaza. The includes a dash of it. One of the
America. A short distance from this latter is unique in that the decor of early highlights in this new way of
spectacular emblem is a tremendous, all of the shops, even that the U. S. life is the grand opening of the piggy
beautiful building, resembling the Post Office, is of the Gay '90s era. bank, and an audit of its contents.
Los Angel* Music Center. This is The individual who failed to put
the international headquarters for Alter years of building homes and away his spare nickels and dimes
all of the "Leisure Worlds." The liv- retirement cities, the developer de- through the years soon learns that
ing area of apartments is walled, cided to build worlds for the retirees. happiness won't buy money!
with uniformed guards at each gate It is hoped that his worlds will be Fortunately, it is possible for an
24 hours a day. Surrounding the better than the old one we're all alert retiree to supplement his in-
"inner sanctum" is the business and stuck with! The only complaint,
come by accepting some form of
professional section, with an im- gleaned from a resident, is that when work, preferably on a free lance or
pressive medical center, many office dinner is ready and he has to run out part time basis. Light sales work
will provide interesting contacts and
a few dollars, advisory, or other ser-
vices related to his former occupa-
tion is a natural; or just "minding
the store" a day or two a week can
be a pleasant experience.
Someone once said, "If you're go-
ing out for a canter you've gotta have
a horse." In planning to break the
harness of employment for a happy
life on the desert, or anywhere else,
you've gotta have several "horses."
Among these are: a moderate income,
reasonably good health, an enthusi-
astic attitude toward the future and
a determination to season your re-
laxed existence with service to
others. According to Nehru, the late
prime minister of India, "Life is not
merely a question of years, but of
what is put into it." (Oops! There
goes the women's bicycling club put-
ting everything into their ride toward
Rancho Bernardo near San Diego is spread over rolling hills rich in history. the desert sunset!) ///
true story . . .
guaranteed to
prospector in any
red-blooded man!
Shorty's Sorrow
by Kenneth Marquiss
BEFORE STARTING, I think it the opening of lunch boxes when I He said, "Okay, next go-home
would be wise to make two things heard Shorty holding forth. He weekend, you drive over to my place
clear. First, it is no fun to be remind- probably never in his life had given and see for yourself, but I'm telling
ed of something painful—particularly a whoop about the Einstein theory, you, it's too remote to mine." Be-
in print—and I have no desire to step but he was chopping on the same log cause we were working on a big pre-
on toes, as I have some corns of my with a home made axe. He was tell- war California desert job, we got
own. I lost track of him years ago, ing a man beside him he didn't care home only every other weekend.
but he is of the rawhide breed who how rich gold ore was, there were
could very easily still be alive. So times when it couldn't be mined; and As soon as I drove into his yard
let's just call him "Shorty." he could prove what he was talking and parked, Shorty handed me a
about—he knew where such ore was! piece of milk white quartz about the
Second, I had nothing to do with Lunch hour was almost over before size of my palm and approximately
the naming of those mountains that I had a chance to side-track him to two inches thick. One side was slick
fringe the area where I saw Shorty arrange a coffee pow-wow after work. faced, the other rough. It was bro-
"lose" his vein of shining rock. Those I wasn't about to let him drift away ken in two places, but the pieces just
ranges were named by early "moun- without including me in on his wobbled—they were held together by
tain men"—basic gents who used apt "proof." In the cafe, as soon as the a mesh of gold wires running through
tags. Map makers who came to Ari- noise of stirring subsided (he liked • the rock. We shook hands on the deal
zona later could hardly change es- sugar) , I put it flat "and blunt. Just right then because I had an angle.
tablished place names and they how rich, and why co^dn't it be The year before, on a Nevada
couldn't use the impolite words, so mined? He said it "was way up on prospecting trip, I had met a north-
they substituted initials. These desig- a mountain in Arizona, in^anyon ern mining executive. He had the
nations are on today's maps and any country, and 20 miles from a ^ road. personal charm of a rogue elephant
friendly forest ranger will explain The pay streak was about six inches and a ruthless, obstacle-smashing
what they mean! wide (half of the one foot vein width) drive I admired. He also had plenty
and it was 'hang-together' ore." I of cash, hard hands, and equipment
The raucous clamor of a big con- just looked at him.
struction job had been silenced by to back it up. If anybody could jerk
Woodstack might pose a mystery to strangers, but it makes sense to miners of Copper Globe.
H A T HAS the desert to do the most thrilling problems that in- toric ethnography, he was able to de-
with the rise of civilization on our terests Man: How and why did civili- termine and establish one of the most
continent? T o begin with, such in- zation and high culture come to be? remarkable sequences of man's cul-
terrelation sounds odd. Was the des- Especially interesting, and complete- tural evolution, daily life and settle-
ert the place where civilization made ment in a desertic area during a con-
its first steps in its development in ly unknown, is the question of how, tinuous lapse of some 9000 years.
the New World? Surely not all of where and when civilization in Am- States R. S. MacNeish, "It became
them, if at all. Nevertheless, were erica started. apparent that the desert valley of
it not for the desert we would not Tehuacan was the region in which
Among scholars of all nationalities
be able to know, as we do now, a evidence could most likely be uncov-
who have been interested in this
number of facts related to the history ered about the beginnings of the do-
problem, Mr. R. D. MacNeish, an
of man in this part of the world. To- mestication of corn."
American, must be especially men-
day it is possible to say—with suffi-
tioned. For years he worked in the MacNeish's reasons for selecting
cient elements to prove and substan-
U. S., Mexico and Central America the Tehuacan Valley area derived,
tiate it—that the fundamental and
systematically going from one area first, from excavations and findings
basic step in the beginning and rise
to the next in search of a solution he and others had made in Northern
of civilization on our continent most
to this issue. From many possibili- and Southern Mexico and in caves in
certainly took place in a desert.
ties, he at last selected a few areas in New Mexico, as well as one discovery
Yes, it is now known beyond doubt Mexico which he considered most in the deep sub-soil of Mexico City
that about 5000 B.C., people living likely to yield- data relevant to the that revealed fossil pollen of maize
in a small valley 150 miles southeast questions. Of these carefully select- belonging to the "last interglacial
of Mexico City discovered that by ed regions, all had one thing in com- period, estimated by geologists to
dropping a seed into the ground (in mon: they were deserts! Why would have occured about 80,000 years ago"
this particular case, corn or maize) MacNeish select deserts in general —that is, long before the populating
a plant containing edible seeds would oppostion to most of his colleagues? and first arrival of Man in the New
grow. They had discovered the basic World. The pollen was thought to
The answer is simple. Complete, or
principle of agriculture. nearly so, lack of rain in desertic be that of wild maize which once
Were it not for the desert, we areas permits the preservation of or- grew in the valley of Mexico and has
would not know, either, that about ganic material in an incredible man- since become extinct. This settled
9000 years ago a group of people ner. Findings of man-made products an important question in that it
occupying a region now called Mex- of perishable materials hundreds and proved corn, or maize, was undoubt-
ico had already acquired the custom thousands of years old remain in a edly a plant of exclusive and typical
of eating hot chili peppers. Ever remarkable state. That was why Mac- American origin.
since then those hot peppers have Neish selected desert areas. What he After other surveys in Central Am-
constituted one of the basic elements was able to find in the course of erica and Mexico, MacNeish narrow-
in the food habits of the population three continuous seasons of work is ed to a reduced area the once vast
of that area. This 9000 years of truly fantastic. With the help of spe- territory of regions where he could
planting and eating chili hot peppers cialists in botany, zoology, physical find the beginning of cultivation of
explains the fact that today, when anthropology, geology, and pre-his- corn in the New World. This prob-
anyone of the 40-million Mexicans lem, about the when, where and how
who eat chili says "Esta salsa no es corn was first domesticated, is one
pica," (this sauce is not hot) you had that has puzzled people interested in
better be careful. A tongue and plants ever since the discovery of
throat with less long tradition is America 500 years ago.
liable to find the concentrated fire
of 9000 devils burning within! On the other hand, one has to con-
sider that the problem is intimately
Were it not for the desert, we would related to the beginning and rise of
not be able to try to disclose, as is civilization on our continent. Corn
being done now by a number of spe- was totally unknown outside the New
cialists, the different steps man fol- World before its discovery, and yet
lowed to become a highly-cultured it was the basic and most important
sedentarist with an intensive agri- food among all highly developed Am-
culture, after he had covered our con- erican civilizations before Columbus.
tinent for thousands and thousands In fact, it still is the basic staple food
of years as a low-cultured hunter and in many Latin American countries,
food-gathering nomad. particularly those where pre-Colum-
bian civilizations developed.
It has been precisely the desert, or
more specifically, characteristics typi- So, every investigator and, of course,
cal and peculiar to the desert, which MacNeish with them, believes that
has revealed that the ancient and when we locate the origins, the place
highly developed civilizations of Am- and the first steps in the domestica-
erica had an independent beginning tion of corn we will be well on our
from those of the old world. These View from bottom of cave excavated way toward finding out where and
few known facts allow us of the 20th by MacNeish shows great quantity of how civilization evolved in America.
Century to speculate about one of refuse left by man in 10,000 years.
Broken Hills,
Nevada
BY LAMBERT FLORIN
HEN JOSEPH Arthur saw the agreed to give up. On their final admirer caught her alone in the kit-
chunk of float glinting with streaks of day's search, Jim took the high ridge chen and unsuccessfully attempted to
pure metallic silver, he could hardly while Joe followed the gully. It was force his attentions upon the girl.
believe his eyes. It was exactly what then he picked up the piece of glit- Repelled, he raged from the build-
he was looking for, but the search tering rock. ing, sweeping a kerosene lamp off of
had proven fruitless for so many As soon as Joe stopped trembling, a table and spilling oil. In moments
years he could hardly believe the he located the outcropping from the entire building burst into flame.
evidence now. He picked it up. It which his chunk of silver had rolled Ross, not far away, rushed into the
was real. Bonanza awaited under the and staked three claims—the Bel- building to save his daughter.
sagebrush covering of the Broken mont, Grand Prize and Butler. Then "Scotty" McLeod, now in his 80s
Hills. he took the chunk, went back to and living in Yerrington, related the
The Arthur family came to this camp, made a big pot of coffee and story to me. "The girl was dead,
raw Nevada country when Joe was a awaited his partner. When Jim walk- likely from suffocation," he said,
small boy. Mrs. Arthur pined for her ed into camp, discouraged and ready "and Ross was so badly burned you'd
native England, but her husband ad- to give up, Joe handed him the rock hardly know him. My wife and I
justed immediately and took a job in without saying a word. attended the double funeral in Yer-
I he mines in Nevada's Ruby Moun- On the strength of the sample, the rington. It was the saddest thing
tains. Often he took his son with two men raised enough capital to we ever knew."
him and little Joe grew up in an at- begin operations. They worked hard Rice's speculative purchase of
mosphere of metallurgy, rocks, ores, at their mines for five years, taking Stratford and Arthur's mines didn't
silver and gold. Determined to be a out some S60,000, then George Gra- pay off, partly because of disinterested
prospector, the boy headed for the ham Rice, notorious promoter from and inefficient operators, partly be-
rock hills with a burro and a few Rawhide, came along and bought cause the best ore already had been
supplies while still in his teens. them out for $75,000.' removed. Smaller outfits moved in
Broken Hills enjoyed a moderate and also failed. During the depression
Success was elusive, though, and a number of unemployed men work-
young Arthur had come close to giv- period of prosperity during the years
the mines produced, roughly from ed the dumps and shafts, taking out
ing up the search when he met an- a respectable §197,195 in five years.
other Englishman prospecting alone. 1910 to 1940. About 1918 Messrs.
Daniels and Ross of Yerrington, Nev- Since then the town has steadily
This was James M. Stratford who had laded away. Maury Stromer stayed
ada, built a substantial hotel which
previously made a small strike, work- furnished a social center for the town. for years all by himself, but fell ill
ed it out, and was now again becom- Ross had a young, attractive daughter and went to live with his daughter in
ing discouraged. The two bucked each who helped in the kitchen and was Paso Robles where he died in 1956.
other up by joining forces and work- much admired by single men in His cabin and many others stand
ing all winter and into spring, with camp. Most of them kept their dis- bleached and lonely in the shadows
nothing to show for it. At last they tance but one evening a persistent of Broken Hills. ///
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JUNE
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CONTEST
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First Prize
I i.
DESERT DESIGNS
William W. Simpson Torrance, Calif.
This interesting study of sand and shadows was
taken at the Joshua Tree National Monument
and captures a certain feeling of the desert.
DATA: Homemade camera, 170 mm. Kodak
Anastigmat, Verichrome Pan.
Second Prize
SPIDER WED Sam Hicks Temecula, Calif.
A dewy morning and early sunlight created this
fantasy near Temecula, California. DATA: Not
available.
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