T. Umapathy Sivam 14.07.

2011

The first literary information about textiles is available in RIG VEDA which refers to

weaving

"Textile" has traditionally meant, "a woven fabric" The term comes from the Latin word texere, meaning to weave.

Stages in Textiles

Hindu epics, depicts a variety of garments worn by aristocrats, commoners, ascetics Indus valley civilization used homespun for weaving their garments around 13th century Textiles were evacuated from Indian soil around 13th century, Roman Empire made a good part for development of textiles

The First Industrial Revolution between 1750 and 1850 The second phase or Second Industrial Revolution between 1860 and 1900 The three key drivers in these changes were textile manufacturing, iron founding and steam power

Before 17th century, people manufacture goods in their home They are transported throughout the country through river or by horses Need for more goods led to the industrial revolution in early 18th century

The only surviving example of a Spinning Mule built by the inventor Samuel Crompton Textiles Cotton spinning using Richard Arkwright's water frame, James Hargreaves's Spinning Jenny and Samuel Crompton's Spinning Mule This was patented in 1769 and so came out of patent in 1783

The end of the patent was rapidly followed by the erection of many cotton mills Similar technology was subsequently applied to spinning worsted yarn for various textiles and flax for linen

Ring spinning technology had successfully replaced the spinning mule, with mills having been converted mules to rings In the 1970s, the depleted industry was challenged by a new technology open-end or break spinning 1978 Carrington Viyella opened a factory to do open-end spinning in Atherton

This was the first new textile production facility in Lancashire since 1929

Top 5 cotton bale producers Country China India United States Pakistan Brazil No of bales (in Millions/yr) 25.3 20.8 19.2 11.7 7.2

Worlds Major Cotton Producers

China US India 4% 8% 21% Pakistan Uzbeikistan Turkey Others

25%

24%

6%

12%

Asian countries are major producers of fiber, yarn, fabrics and garments EU, USA and other countries depend mainly on south Asian nations especially China and India

"It is difficult to find such a large-scale

industry in the country that is so disorganized as the Indian textile industry"

Arvind Singhal, Chairman, KSA Technopak, in 2004 "We have acted, but very late. The industry is

back loaded with the technological obsolescence and sub-scale of operations"

S P Oswal, Chairman, Vardhman Group, in 2005

It is revealed that the spinning and weaving of cotton was known to the Harrappans, nearly five thousand years ago The foundations of the Indian textile trade with other countries began as early as the 2nd century BC

The block printed and resist-dyed fabrics mainly of Guajarati origin was exported to Egypt This is the proof of large scale Indian export of cotton textiles to the Egypt in medieval times In the 13th century, Indian silk was used as barter for spices from the western countries

Before the introduction of mechanized means of spinning in the early 19th century, Indian cotton and silk were hand spun and hand woven, a highly popular fabric, called the khadi Fabrics that use mill- spun yarn but which are hand-woven are known as handloom

Largest industry in the country 14% of the total industry production from textiles The Indian Textile Industry is growing at 20% and accounts for 4% of Indias GDP 60% of yarn and fabrics produced from Tamilnadu Contributes about 30% to total exports 2nd largest employment generator after agriculture

Employs about 38 million people Expected to generate 12 million new jobs by 2011 18% employment of industrial sector is in textiles It accounts for 30 % of Indias Gross Export Earning In the production of fabrics the decentralized sector accounts for roughly 94 percent while the mill sector has a share of only 6 percent

India contributes 20% to world spindlage capacity the second highest spindlage in the world after China It contributes 6% to the world rotor and 62% to the world loomage 12% of the world production of textile fibres and yarns is from India

India is the largest producer of Jute, second largest producer of silk and cellulose fibre / yarn 2nd largest producer of cotton 5th largest producer of synthetic fibres / yarns Many worlds' leading brands like Wal-Mart, Marks & Spencer, Carrefour, Banana Republic, Tommy Hilfiger, Gap, Liz Claibome, Polo etc, are sourcing products from India

The industry is highly localized in Ahmadabad and Mumbai in the western part of the country

Though other centers exist including Kanpur, Kolkata, Indore, Coimbatore, and Sholapur

India has engaged in the production of 23 varieties cotton yarn and 15 varieties of synthetic yarn Around 7 varieties of silk fabrics are exported

India produces a wide range of home furnishings, household linen, curtain tapestry and yardage made with different textures and varying thickness The Handloom industry mainly exports fabrics, bed linen, table linen, toilet and kitchen linen, towels, curtains, cushions and pads, tapestries and upholstery's, carpets and floor coverings, etc

Indian textile exporters are facing stiffer competition in the US market from countries like:
China Indonesia Vietnam Bangladesh Turkey and Pakistan

Indian Textile Industry is highly fragmented Industry that is lead by several small-scale industries. Because of this, there is lack of Industry Leadership. These small companies do not have fiscal resources to invest in technological upgradation and they are not able to generate economies of scale. This leads to inability to establish a worldclass competitive player.

Despite many policies Industry is bound with historical regulations that are reason for Complex Industry Structure. Though Industry has cheap and skilled manpower but they are less productive. There is lack of technological up-gradation in various steps that affect the quality, cost and distribution. There are high Costs like, High Indirect Taxes, Power and Interest Rates. Inadequate Research & Development. There is less FDI in this industry that is hurdle to make industry more competitive on global basis.

Industry has unfavorable labor Laws. India has disadvantage in terms of Geographic Locations. Because of this there is Global Logistic Disadvantage as shipping cost is higher. India lacks in various trade memberships, which restrict to tap potential market. Inappropriate energy supplies to rural and sub-urban areas. Industry needs to compete on the basis of Price, Quality and Delivery for the different segments.

SWOT analysis on Indian Textiles

Abundant raw material availability

Low cost skilled labor

Presence across value chain

Growing domestic markets

Fragmented industry

Effect of government policies

Low production and cost

Technological obsolesce

Post 2005 challenges R&D and Product development

Competition in domestic markets

Ecological and social awareness

Regional alliances

How will be our future?

The textile industry in India is one of the flourishing sectors of Indian economy In the year 2010 the industry is estimated to produce 12 million jobs with an investment of US$ 6 billion in the fields of textiles equipments and structure, and garment manufacturing by the end of 2015

The Synthetic and Rayon Textile Export Promotion Council has taken all the required steps to meet the target of doubling the synthetic textile exports in India to US$ 6.2 billion by seizing 4% of market share by FY 2011-12

Our duties

Presently Indian textile products are sourced by larger international chains and being sold in different brand names This trend should be changed and India has to build a range of products that carry the zeal of Indian companies, feel many experts from the industry and the Government

Indian textiles is one of the most valuable asset to the economy It is the oldest industry in the country Latest technologies modern infrastructural machineries coming up We have to equip ourselves in technology and handling pressure situations to make industry to world class level

Thank You