Technical information Checking your equipment

Quickdraws
Each pitch that is climbed and "cleaned" involves an average of 75openings and closings of carabiners. The quickdraw webbing is submitted to repeated shock loads, rubbing against the rock and to the suns UV rays. Getting sand or small particles inside the fabric also accelerates quickdraw wear. Before and after each outing, inspect the carabiners and the webbing of your quickdraws.

Webbing:
On the EXPRESS sling, remove the STRING and inspect the stitching and the areas of contact with the carabiner. Check for cuts, tears, looping or swelling of the webbing. Discoloration or swelling of the webbing often indicates excessive wear. Retire your quickdraw: - if the results of your inspection are not satisfactory - after a significant shock load or impact - if you have any doubt about their reliability www.petzl.com/ppe

Carabiners (frame, gate, hinge...):

Look for: - cracks, deformities, corrosion, excessive wear (no more than 1mm of material worn away), sharp edges from rubbing on anchor points (frame, gate, hinge) - good opening and automatic closing of the gate; it must close cleanly and completely. The return spring should be quick and sharp (add a drop of oil if necessary). Clean the Keylock evacuation hole.

Information is non-exhaustive; consult the details of the inspection procedure to be carried out for each item of PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) on its technical notice or at www.petzl.com/ppe

Technical information Basics

Choose a site according to the physical capabilities and degree of independence of the youngest members.
Pay attention to the length of the approach walk, which may not be suitable for children. Carefully choose the place where you will set up Base camp:flat, protected from falling rock or equipment. Look for shade or sun, depending on the season. Inspect the area before setting up (check for reptiles, insects, dangerous plants, broken glass,...).

Bring appropriate equipment

For the youngest children, use a full body harness designed and properly adjusted to their size; for older children, check that the waistbelt of the harness fits snugly. In both cases, before each route, check that there is no risk of coming out of the harness in case of inversion... (verify the adjustment between each play session, climb, and change of equipment). Require the children to always wear their helmets. Parents of course set the example:the helmet is not only protection from rockfall, but also from falling equipment (quickdraws, descenders, cell phones,etc.), and of course from somersaults in the gravel.

Put yourself at the childrens pace and plan for rest time
Make the climbing fun; plan some games with the equipment, do rappelling to teach independence, and plan other activities to add some variety. Plan for enough food and water to keep the family refreshed before, during and after any activity.

Be alert

With children, you must be extremely vigilant in all phases of belaying, gearing up, tying in, setting belays, descending, rappelling,etc. Be very familiar with all the basic techniques. Decide with the children on an area where they can play on their own when they are not climbing. This area should be away from the climbing area and the belayers. The parent should be positioned so as to always keep an eye on young children while belaying them and to be ready to intervene at any given moment.

Adapt your belaying technique to the childs weight

When belaying a child climbing on lead, be careful to not short-rope him during a fall; giving a dynamic belay to a 25-kg child requires training; with very light weights (less than 20kg), a self-braking device may not be activated... Lower more slowly. Do not let a child belay you if the weight difference is more than 30 to 40kg.

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Technical information Tips

A. Tying in
Figure-8 knot. Tying in to a harness.

D. New GRIGRI technique Main position for belaying, giving slack

Get into the habit of keeping your hands in this position; its the main position for belaying. To help make it easier to slide the rope through the device, its better to push the rope through it, rather than pulling it.

Short transitional position for giving slack quickly

Do not grip the device with your entire hand

Stopping a fall
The belayer holds the rope firmly downwards. Perform a dynamic belay to absorb the fall.

Taking up slack

B. Connection between the belay device and its attachment carabiner

Be careful to properly position the attachment carabiner.

Jonathan on-sights Kalle Anka, 6b+ (5.10d), at Tjrnbroklippan.

E. Tying off a belay device

Useful technique to free the hands, for example to untie a knot in the rope. Climber is stopped. Always hold the brake side of the rope when tying or untying the tie-off.

C. Basic belaying techniques

The same technique is used for all Petzl belay devices. 1 2 3

Giving slack.
The brake hand pushes the rope in the device.

Stopping a fall.
The belayer holds the rope firmly downwards.

Taking up slack.

Unblocking 4

Sport climbing

Information is non-exhaustive. Refer to the other pages as well as to the user instructions and technical manuals. Technical training is essential.

POA photography

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F. Positioning and behavior

Spot the leader before the first bolt is clipped. Clip the second bolt at waist level; this reduces the amount of rope out and thus helps prevent the climber hitting the ground in case of a fall before making the clip.

Choose the length of the quickdraw according to the situation.

Extending an anchor with a sling to avoid incorrect carabiner loading.

Stay directly underneath the first piece of protection.

H. Rope path
Running the rope correctly through the carabiner reduces the risk of accidental unclipping.

Backing-up the belayer: - weight difference - belaying under a roof

G. Clipping a quickdraw
Clipping methods.

Sport climbing

Information is non-exhaustive. Refer to the other pages as well as to the user instructions and technical manuals. Technical training is essential.
POA photography

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Maja Hallgren top-ropes Till Ulrica 5c (5.9) at Hllsunga.

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Direction of the quickdraw

K. Lowering with a GRIGRI and communicating with your partner

Lower slowly and always keep a hand on the brake end of the rope.

OK?

Do not clip a carabiner with a STRING into the anchor. The carabiner could become incorrectly loaded.

OK, GOT YOU!

I. The fall
Warning:Do not let the rope run behind your leg.

J. Setting up to be lowered without untying

1 2

Sport climbing

Information is non-exhaustive. Refer to the other pages as well as to the user instructions and technical manuals. Technical training is essential.

Warning:Tie in directly to the harness if you want to repeat a section of the pitch.

POA photography

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