Features

30 top scorer GAA star Bernard Brogan

comes from a dynasty of footballing
legends; Ger Gilroy gets under the skin of
the enigmatic forward
36 WrIte DIrectIoN As a new generation
of Irish writers makes waves internationally,
Bridget Hourican fnds out what makes
them tick
48 WIcKLoWrocKs Author and journalist
Peter Murtagh takes us along as he
traverses one of Irelands most spectacular
walking trails
60 sHoppING& tHe cItY Shopping list in
hand, Lizzie Gore-Grimes discovers the
hidden gems on the streets and avenues
of New York City
70 sUrFs Up ... Surfng newbie and journalist
Pl Conghaile and family discover an
island paradise in Fuerteventura
82 GreAt DANe Intrepid city seeker
Roger Norum shares the smarts on
Denmarks capital city
Contents September
News
06 ArrivAls We meet Aer Linguss
fresh new arrivals at Dublins T2
09 News DiAry Things we must
see and do this September
10 News hotels Discover
Irelands wild side and the
elegance of New York
12 News restAurANts The
fnest dining with Eoin Higgins
14 News shoppiNg Gadgets
to go eco travel accessories from
Sive OBrien
16 News BusiNess Smart
Traveller Lunching in London?
Pete Murphy shares his secrets
18 News people Whats in
my Suitcase designer Sonya
Lennon packs with panache
20 News people On my Travels
Trent Johnson bowls us over
22 News BeAuty togo
Holiday hair care; Ellie Balfe
treats your tresses
24 News Books Shelf Life
Bridget Hourican reviews the
latest page-turners
26 News DiAry Fringe Benefts
Edel Cofey takes centre stage at
the Dublin Fringe Festival
28 News DiAry Taste of Success
Ben Webb reports on the British
food producers hoping to whet
your appetite
regulars
89 AN iNsiDers guiDe to
BorDeAuX Conor Maguire
salutes the good life in France
92 48 hours iN veNice
Wandering romance Frances
Power shares her love of this
unique city
95 Aer liNgus iNFlight Whats
on for September movies, music
and infight information
120trip oF AliFetiMe Writer and
adventurer Tim Severin shares his
memories of a very special journey
30
Fast forward
Bernard
Brogan
60
Big city of
dreams
New York
70
Island paradise
Fuerteventura
14
Eco
airwaves
Gadgets
to Go
www.doylecollection.com
DUB L I N C OR K L ONDON
Hoels
Welcome to
Where the action is . . .
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see the f ul l story unf ol d at London Heathrow
B R I S T OL WA S HI NGT ON B OS T ON
EDITORIAL
Editor Frances Power
Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins
Editorial Consultant Laura George
Editorial Assistant Carlynn McCarthy
Contributors Sive OBrien, Amanda Cochrane,
Ellie Balfe, Suzie Coen
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Acting Art Director Sandra Horan
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Contributors
PETER MuRTAGH is foreign editor of The
Irish Times and a Wicklow resident. Earlier
this summer, he rode a large motorbike along
The Wild Atlantic Way, Filte Irelands West
of Ireland project to be launched in 2013, and
wrote about it in The Irish Times. Two years
ago, he walked the Camino de Santiago in
Spain with his daughter, Natasha, and together
they wrote a book about their travels, Buen
Camino! Cara thought it was about time he
walked closer to home and sent him of on
The Wicklow Way, see page 48. It was more
taxing than I expected, he told us afterwards,
all those ups and downs the sides of glaciated
valleys. But it was wonderful remote, wild,
beautiful and right there on my doorstep.
Born in New York of Viking blood,
anthropologist and author ROGER NORuM
returned North for Caras Copenhagen
feature, see page 82. As co-author and
photographer of Rough Guides to both
Denmark and Copenhagen, he was the
obvious candidate. Its hardly a secret
that the Scandinavian capitals are real
cultural hotbeds now, Roger remarks. But
Copenhagen takes the prize for being the
coolest, hippest and most welcoming. If you
get to befriend some Copenhageners, accept
an invitation to their home it will give you
some real insight into this proud people.
Rogers latest book, The Rough Guide to
Norway, is out this month.
JOANNE MuRPHy is an award-winning
freelance photographer who specialises in
food, lifestyle and portrait photography.
She has worked on a wide range of Irish and
international publications. This month she
traveled to New York for Cara, see page 60.
Everything in New York is a photograph,
I wanted to glue my camera to my head so
I never had to put it down! On this trip, I
visited Brooklyn for the frst time and loved
it, but one day there just wasn t enough.
Defnitely a place to revisit. Despite the
oppressive summer heat (and being fve
months pregnant!) pounding the pavement
is still the best way to see the city, meet
wonderful New Yorkers and have your own
unique New York experience.
ON THE COVER
Dublin GAA player Bernard Brogan,
photographed by Richard Gilligan,
assisted by Andrew Nuding.
6 | SEPTEMBER 2012
Arrivals
Dublin Airports Terminal 2 is full of new recruits to
the Emerald Isle and Irish expats returning home.
Cara magazine meets some of them. Photographs
by Anthony Woods.
English language students, from left,
SUNGHYE-KIM, YONGMOKWON,
JUNGEUNLEE and KWANSIKKOare
in Dublin hoping to pick up the gift of
the gab!
Londoners JOHN
ALEXANDER, left, and
JAMIE DAVIS have own
in for Jamies wedding in
Kilkenny Castle.
JANICE DALZELL-
PIPER, left, and her
daughter, DAISY,
are based in San
Francisco but are back
in Dublin for Janices
parents 50th wedding
anniversary.
PIERRE ALQUIER is in Dublin to
house hunt. The Paris native starts a
new job as a maths lecturer in UCD and
needs to nd a place to call his own.
GABRIELAGARCA
MONDRAGN, left, and CAROLINA
RAMOS CHVEZ are back in Dublin
after a trip to Amsterdam. The
Mexican chicas are studying English
in Dublin and love the friendly
charisma of the Irish. W
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The CAPT FAMILYwho live in Geneva are heading
home to Donaghmede for their holidays. They cant
wait to see family and friends. They arent too homesick
though they make this trip six times a year.
Fresh from his Frankfurt ight, BRIAN
SHEA cant wait to hear some Irish music
and have a pint of Guinness. The Michigan
man is on a six-week backpacking trip
around Europe.
AISLING
OKENNEDY is back
in Ireland for her
brothers wedding
in Wicklow. The
Dubliner has been
living in Faro for the
past two years.
Every great city has an iconic store.
A store which celebrates luxury, creativity, service and the
very best Irish and international brands since 1849.
GRAFTONSTREET DUBLIN, PATRICK STREET CORK, OCONNELL STREET LIMERICK, EGLINGTONBUILDINGS GALWAY
WWW.BROWNTHOMAS.COM
WELCOME
TO
BROWN THOMAS
Blarney Castle & Gardens
Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence
See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Irelands greatest chieftains.
Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.
Open all year round

5 miles from Cork

Open Monday- Sunday 9-6
www.blarneycastle.ie

info@blarneycastle.ie
september 2012 | 9
news Diary
28
newyork FilmFestival, newyork
This year marks The New York FilmFestivals 50th
anniversary. The ficks fest will host the world
premiers of two of the most hotly anticipated
flms in recent months: Oscar-winner Ang Lees
(left) take on the novel Life of Pi and Robert
Zemeckis Flight, starring Denzel Washington. Runs
September 28 to October 14. flmlinc.com
aer LinGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO new yOrK DAILY AND
SHANNON TO new yOrK MON, WED AND FRI.
Music week, Berlin
Food for the mind and
the soul ... During Berlin
Music Week curious
creatives unite, host talks
on commerce, politics and
technology, hold workshops
on how best to create music
and fnish up with a three-
day music event featuring
Totally Enormous Extinct
Dinosaurs, pictured, The
Killers and Kate Nash. Runs
September 5-9. Tickets from
49. berlin-music-week.de
aer LinGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN
TO BerLin DAILY.
5
September
Summer may have ended, but the fun has just begun.
1
The nomad Pop-up Cinema, London
The Nomads expertly executed
viewings have developed something
of a cult following in London, such
is their dedication to enhancing the
experience of flm through location.
This month sees Stanley Kubricks
The Shining projected in Brompton
cemetery, while Baz Luhrmanns
Romeo & Juliet is screened in
Fulham Palace. All profts earned
go to the Sustainability Institute in
South Africa. Runs all month. Tickets
from 8.50; whereisthenomad.com
aer LinGUs FLIES FROM BELFAST, CORK,
DUBLIN AND SHANNON TO LOnDOn HeaTHrOw
DAILY.
14
Valentia isle Festival, Kerry
This inaugural boutique music and
mingling festival will see FRED,
This Club, and comic delinquents
The Rubber Bandits, share the
same bill. Mingling comes in
the form of matchmaking, with
workshops on firting and singles
events throughout the weekend,
including the Single Mingle in the
local half marathon where you are
paired up with an unknown suitor/
running partner. Runs September
14-16. Tickets from 39.50.
valentiaislefestival.com
22
Great Gorilla run, London
London goes ape! Witness the
slightly unedifying sight of 700
otherwise normal people running
through the English capital
dressed as Gorillas in an attempt
to raise funds for the conservation
organisation, The Gorilla
Association, this month. Charitable
participants have each vowed to
raise 400 in sponsorship before
they don their simian suits and run
the 7km distance. Registration
is 80. For more details visit
greatgorillarun.org.
aer LinGUs FLIES FROM BELFAST, CORK,
DUBLIN AND SHANNON TO LOnDOn HeaTHrOw
DAILY.
10 | september 2012
news hotels
Escape
Experience Irelands wild side and quirky New York elegance at its best.
the RItZ-CARlton, VIennA
The latest feather in the Ritz-Carlton's cap is its elegant
Viennese hotel, comprised of four 19th century palaces
on the city's historic Ringstrasse. Not only is it central,
but it is just a short walk fromthe Hofburg Palace, the
former Hapsburg imperial residence. All of which makes it
a good spot for sightseers and business folk. Schedule in
a visit to the nearby Viennese State Opera, check out the
Imperial apartments or just order a hot chocolate in the
lobby lounge. But pack your swimming togs the pool is an
impressive 18mlong and comes complete with underwater
music! Rooms from550. Schubertring 5-7, Vienna, +43 1
311 88 110; ritzcarlton.com
AeRlIngus FLIES FROMDUBLINTOVIennADAILY.
gRAMeRCYPARK hotel, newYoRK
This art-house hotel has exuded the refned whif of
old world glamour for decades. Humphrey Bogart
got married here, Babe Ruth drank here and John F
Kennedy played with his kids on the rooftop terrace.
And, folks, the place has still got it. The Gramercy is, of
course, one of Ian Schragers stable of cool-as-ice spots.
And now, in keeping with the trend for elevated bars,
the rooftop terrace has had a facelift. The walls are
heaving with pieces by Andy Warhol, Damien Hirst and
Richard Prince. To accompany the change of scenery,
head chef Jef Seizer has devised a newmenu of
American classics expect to see the bohemian set at
play here. Rooms from$425. 2 Lexington Avenue, +1 212
920 3300; gramercyparkhotel.com
AeRlIngus FLIES FROMDUBLINTOnewYoRK DAILY ANDFROM
SHANNONTOnewYoRKMON, WED, FRI ANDSUN.
FotA IslAndResoRt, CoRK
Dont expect country-house style at Fota
Island Resort, this is a purpose-built,
unashamedly modern resort. The plus is
that it has all the facilities you could hope
for froma fve-star a state-of-the-art spa
and swimming pool, three championship
golf courses (it has hosted the Irish
Open), a swanky clubhouse, above, and
a fne restaurant, all set in 500 acres or
so of parkland. It's a popular location for
weddings but especially loved by families.
Not only do parents have the kid-friendly
pool and midterm-break camps, but the
resort shares the island with Fota Wildlife
Park, which is carrying out a successful
breeding programme for threatened
species. Fota Island Resort family package
from229 B&B per night. Fota Island
Resort, Cork, 021 488 3700; fotaisland.ie
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southPlACe hotel, london

This brand-newhotel is the frst to be opened
by renowned London restaurateurs D&D(of
Quaglinos and many others) and its just as
much about meeting and eating as about
sleeping. It boasts two restaurants, the highpoint
(literally) is the Angler Restaurant, which serves
top-class seafood and ofers a birds eye viewof
the London skyline fromits seventh foor eyrie.
Set in the fnancial heart of the City, it looks set
to become the hot spot for broking that deal,
with three bars (named after spies), private
dining rooms and all sorts of high-end fourishes.
Rooms from185. 3 South Place, London, +44 20
3503 0000; southplacehotel.com
AeRlIngus FLIES FROMDUBLIN, BELFAST, CORK AND
SHANNONTOlondonheAthRowDAILY.
Latest frill fromthe mega-star Regency mansion, Ballyfn in Co Laois? An inhouse costume department that
decks guests out in period fnery (courtesy of the Lyric Opera Company in Chicago), to have their photo taken
and attend, suitably attired, a lavish banquet. Book now, ballyfn.com
This iconic building on Dublins Henry Street is Irelands largest and
longest established department store. Arnotts is home to the worlds best
in beauty, fashion for men and women, homewares, all the latest in technology
and Irelands largest and loveliest shoe department, The Shoe Garden.
There are several places to eat, including Clodaghs Kitchen, in which
everything is homemade by celebrity chef Clodagh McKenna. In other words,
Arnotts is more than just shopping. It is an experience.
Whatevers next,
since 1843.
Arnotts, 12 Henry Street, Dublin 1 / 01 805 0400
Follow us on Twitter!
@arnottsdublin
Like us on Facebook!
Arnotts Department Store
Shop online www.arnotts.ie
12 | September 2012
BAGOTS HUTTON, DUBLIN
Located in one of Dublins oldest wine cellars, the Bagots Hutton brand
has been resurrected by a couple of cheeky chappies who have been
stalwarts of the hip hospitality scene on South WilliamStreet for a
number of years so, nonchalant customers and hairstyles that have
been tousled just-so? of course, but you will also fnd friendly staf and
some interesting social types hanging out in this cavernous, subterranean
den. Food is served la Danny DeVito: its a short ofering with Italian
roots think quality antipasti plates and some well-considered bruschetta.
The real star of the show, however, is vinous; there are 30 well-chosen
Old World tipples available by the glass or, if youre feeling particularly
felicitous, the bottle. 28 South WilliamStreet, Dublin 2, 01 534 3956
Food File
From an old world cellar in Dublin to a creative
eating space in Paris, Eoin Higgins takes a bite.
Salud! To mark its 150-year anniversary, Bacardi has teamed up with chef Stephen Gibson fromDublin restaurant
Pichet to develop a gastronomically-complementary cocktail offering. The mouth-watering tipples served
exclusively at Pichet are a meal-enhancing 10 a pop; pichetrestaurant.ie
WANDERLUST, PARIS
The studiously contrived (as well as the
traditionally styled) Parisian hipster has claimed a
substantial stake in the crowd at Wanderlust. From
the Daniel Clowes-illustrated accessories, see
above, to the Jakob+MacFarlane architecture, this
place screams Le Cool! But dont let that put you
of your brunch. This new ofering from the snazzy
Savoir Faire Group in the 13th arrondissement
should please most, if not all, open-minded
diners. Not exclusively a restaurant, Wanderlust
is also billed as a creative space where open-air
cinema, a chill-out zone, table tennis, and yoga
classes are la mode in the kitchen, ambitious
young chef, Benjamin Darnaud, carries on the
Le Fooding guides anarchic approach to French
culinary traditions. Open Wednesday to Sunday,
12pm to 6am. 32 Quai dAusterlitz, 75013 Paris;
wanderlustparis.com
AERLINGUS FLIeS FrOMDuBLINANDCOrk TOPARIS DAILY.
THE LEDBURY, LONDON
A Michelin two-star in fashionable Notting
Hill, the Ledburys dining room is elegant,
aloof and, if were being honest, a touch
clinical; thankfully though, the food is warm,
rich and comforting. Its a juxtaposition that
works very well. For those on a budget, the
30 set lunch menu comprising two courses
(35 for three) is wonderful value. If, on the
other hand, youve had a splendid day on
the markets, you will not be disappointed
by giving the la carte an airing. The output
from Aussie chef Brett Graham, right who
cut his teeth in Sydney under the infamously
short-fused Irish chef, Liam Tomlin is
thought-provoking without messing about
too much with the modern French canon.
127 Ledbury road, Notting Hill, London, +44
207 792 9090; theledbury.com
AERLINGUS FLIeS FrOMDuBLIN, SHANNON, COrk
ANDBeLFAST TOLONDONHEATHROWDAILY.
NEWS RESTAURANT
POK POK NY, NEWYORK
representing Portland, Oregon, in the Big Apple, Thai food maverick Andy
rickers Pok Pok has recently set out its mouth-watering stall on the gritty
streets of Brooklyn. The most gush-inducing items on the menu are the
fsh sauce chicken wings and a creative take on Som Tam, the popular Thai
green papaya salad. That said, the menu is so full of exotic delights from
the sweet and sour drinking vinegars to the Chiang Mai sausage its hard
to fnd something that doesnt stimulate the taste buds, or the imagination.
Pok Pok does not take reservations and, due to the buzz surrounding its
recent opening, you can expect to wait up to two hours for a table during
busiest times. But if Southeast Asian is your thing, its worth the wait. 127
Columbia Street, Brooklyn, New York, +1 718 923 9322; pokpokny.com
AER LINGUS FLIeS FrOM DuBLIN TONEWYORK DAILY AND FrOM SHANNON TONEWYORK,
MON, WeD AND FrI.
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BLARNEY WOOLLEN MI LLS
Bl a r ne y Wo o l l e n Mi l l s , Bl a r ne y , Co . Co r k , I r e l a nd
Bl a r ne y Wo o l l e n Mi l l s , Bunr a t t y , Co . Cl a r e , I r e l a nd
Bl a r ne y Wo o l l e n Mi l l s , Do v e Hi l l , Ca r r i c k o n S ui r , Co . Ti ppe r a r y , I r e l a nd
s ho p o nl i ne a t www. b l a r ne y . c o m
THE LARGEST IRISH SHOP IN THE WORLD
TOGO
NEWS SHOPPING
Go a little green and reduce your carbon footprint with
Sive OBriens pick of eco-friendly travel accessories.
14 | SEPTEMBER 2012
Gadgets
3
5
9
10
6
7
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1 COLLAPSABLEWATERBOTTLES Aquatina, 6.50(for two) at
nigelsecostore.com2H2O-POWEREDRADIO44 at mossenvy.
com3THEETHICALTRAVELGUIDETourismConcern, 16.99 at
amazon.co.uk 4SOLARCHARGERPowermonkey Extreme, 129 at
doyourbit.ie 5WATERPOWEREDLCDATOMICCLOCK30.99 at
smartenergystore.ie 6SUSTAINABLEORGANICBAGMillican, 128,
homeofmillican.com7HYBRIDCHARGERSolio, 84.95 at siopaeile.
com8SOLARKINDLECOVER83 at amazon.co.uk 9SOLAR
DABRADIORoberts, 120at littlewoodsireland.ie 10ECOMEDIA
PLAYER128 at clairesecostore.co.uk.
e: dublin.hourpassion@ir.swatchgroup.com t: +353 (0)1 9446463
www.hourpassiondublin.com
Tax savings for all passengers
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16 | SEPTEMBER 2012
NEWS BUSINESS TRAVEL
Looking for business hotspots in London or lunch in Stockholm? LisaHughes is clued in.
Smart TRAVELLER
1
LISAELMQVIST One of Stockholms
best-loved seafood restaurants, Lisa
Elmqvist is known for fresh dishes using
hand-picked ingredients from the sea.
Seventy-ve years in business, this thriving
restaurant is a very Stockholm experience,
particularly as it is housed in stermalm
Hall so its great for people-watching.
(stermalms Saluhall, +46 855 340 400;
lisaelmqvist.se)
2
KURACAFIf a laid-back caf for
an informal chat is what youre after,
here it is. Kura brings a touch of
New Zealand to Sweden, with friendly
baristas, excellent coee and attentive
service to boot. As for food, its all about
the sourdough sandwiches and superfood
salads. (Torsgatan 31, +46 832 8823; kura.se)
3
SEABAR&RESTAURANT At the
Nordic Sea Hotels Sea Bar &
Restaurant, the seasonal avours of
Sweden take centre stage. Try Stockholms
biggest prawn sandwich or the special
business lunch menu for SEK 185 (about
22) for a main, a salad ... and a surprise!
(Nordic Sea Hotel, Vasaplan 4, +46 850 563
508; nordicseahotel.se)
4
KOL&KOXThis classic Italian
restaurant manages to be both
pared back and atmospheric, with
stained-glass ceilings and candlelight. With
a dedicated business lunch menu, you
can nab a avoursome main course from
SEK 180 (about 21). A reliable favourite.
(Olofsgatan 7 A, +46 824 5860; kolkox.se)
5
AMARENTENCherry pick from the
tasty la carte menu and treat your
clients or colleagues to a cocktail
from the funky bar. This airy restaurant is
an intimate setting for lunch, with tables
of four dotting the room and artwork by
illustrator Pelle Mattsson bringing the walls
to life. (Kungsholmsgatan 31, +46 869 399 60;
amaranten.se)
5BESTBUSINESS
LUNCHESINSTOCKHOLM
As head of media and artist relations
for EMI, music bu Pete Murphy
travels around Ireland regularly on
business but also internationally.
His favourite city for business is one
famed for its music biz and popular
with business travellers London.
London is great
for business travel
because The transport
links are excellent.
Everywhere is very
accessible. Trac can be a
bit punishing at times but,
being a Dubliner, Im well
used to that!
A good place for
business meetings
The Covent Garden
Hotel (rmdalehotels.
com) is in a great location
or the Mandarin Oriental
(mandarinoriental.com)
in Knightsbridge is also
really good.
Business lunch For a
relaxed lunch, my favourite
eatery in London is Busaba
Eathai (busaba.com) on
Wardour Street, in Soho. Its
a Thai restaurant and the sh
curry is heavenly. E&O in
Notting Hill/Ladbroke Grove
(rickerrestaurants.com) is
another great Thai spot.
Business drinks Steer away
from the chain/brewery pubs,
in favour of free houses.
The Stag on Fleet
Road in Belsize Park is
particularly ne. Im a
fan of the Porterhouse
Pubs, so the Covent
Garden one generally
gets a visit, and The
Clifton on Clifton Hill
in St Johns Wood is
recommended too.
Best business hotel I
usually stay in the K West
(k-west.co.uk) in Shepherds
Bush. I also really like The
Arch on Great Cumberland
Place, near Marble Arch
(thearchlondon.com).
Tipping? I stick to the 10
per cent rule.
Budget business travel
tip Pre-book things such
as the Heathrow Express
(heathrowexpress.com) and
getting an Oyster Card will
never let you down.
Doing business in London
for the rst time The
number one rule is plan
ahead as much as possible.
Dont leave anything to
chance. If youre going
to be in a long meeting,
stay hydrated. Also, leave
yourself some leisure time
to enjoy what London has
to oer. Its a great city
and we sometimes take it
for granted, given its close
proximity.
On your downtime There
are so many museums,
galleries and places of
interest that you could visit
for years and never exhaust
them. Im an avid music
collector, so I can usually be
found in Revival Records
or Sister Ray Records on
Berwick Street in Soho, or
Music and Video Exchange
in Notting Hill, when I have a
spare hour or two.
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NEWS PEOPLE
18 | SEPTEMBER 2012
Whats in my suitcase
As a stylist, designer, RTEs O the Rails front woman and founder of
global not-for-prot initiative Dress for Success Dublin, Sonya Lennons
fashion credentials are impeccable. She tells Suzie Coen about the
sartorial favourites that feature in her travel wardrobe.
CASHMERE SCARF
Sian Jacobs, 249 at
Liberties, The Quay,
Westport, Co Mayo;
sianjacobs.com
SUNGLASSES Thierry Lasry,
342 at matchesfashion.com
FRINGEDKNIT
JACKET Tim
Ryan, 1,670 at
avenue32.com
LEATHER CLUTCH Pauric
Sweeney, 730 at Brown Thomas,
Grafton Street, Dublin 2
DRAPEDJERSEY
DRESS Roland
Mouret, 670 from
Costume, 10 Castle
Market, Dublin 2;
costumedublin.ie
TOMFORD
APHRODISIAC
LIPSTICK 46 at
Brown Thomas,
Grafton Street,
Dublin 2
CAMERA Canon PowerShot SX240 HS,
349 at Conns Cameras, 54 Clarendon
Street, Dublin 2; connscameras.ie
LEATHER SKINNY
TROUSERS Alexander
McQueen, 1,995 at
net-a-porter.com
CHANEL UV ESSENTIEL
SPF 50 45.70 at Harvey
Nichols, Dundrum Town
Centre, Sandyford Road,
Dublin 16; harveynichols.com
BOWERBIRD
NECKLACE limited
edition, Melissa
Curry, 440 at
Havana, 2 Anglesea
House, Dublin 4;
havanaboutique.ie
DARK CHERRYSHOES
Stella McCartney,
540 at Brown
Thomas, Grafton
Street, Dublin 2
Book online at www.guinness-storehouse.com
and get 10% off adult tickets.
Guinness Storehouse

, St Jamess Gate,
Dublin 8. Tel. 00353 1 408 4800
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20 | september 2012
International cricketer Trent Johnston talks to Suzie Coen about
assertive driving in Bangladesh; herding sheep in Australia; hitting
winning runs in Jamaica and also divulges a hidden talent.
GROWINGUP IN AUSTRALIA, MY
FAVOURITE HOLIDAYS Were spent at my
great aunt and uncles farm in Junee, which is
around 400 kilometres west of my home town
of Wollongong, New South Wales. Carefree
days revolved around riding our bikes, driving
old Holden Utes and herding sheep and cattle.
ITS HARD TOPICK JUST ONE BEAUTIFUL
SPOT IN AUSTRALIA Id recommend any
place in NSW I call it Gods country. My top
fve must-sees are: the Sydney Harbour Bridge,
the Opera House, the Great Barrier Reef, Uluru
(Ayers Rock) and the Great Ocean Road. When
I retire, Ive promised to buy the camper van
and tour the country properly.
I FELL IN LOVE WITH CRICKET From the
moment I was born. Cricket is a religion in Oz,
something similar to the GAA in Ireland. All my
spare time in the summer was spent playing
cricket, with friends, family and neighbours. I
remember playing in the road with two rubbish
bins as stumps and a taped-up tennis ball
great times.
MY CHILDHOOD HEROES WERE Malcolm
Marshall and Desmond Haynes, two West
Indian legends. They played hard and fast and
were unstoppable in their era.
ITS ALWAYS EXCITINGTOPLAY CRICKET
IN THE CARIBBEAN Every island has its
own unique vibe and Ive been incredibly
Australian-born Trent Johnstons fast bowling career began in New South Wales, before he
chose to play for Ireland on the international stage. After his debut against Surrey in 2004,
the right-arm speedster soon made a name for himself in Irelands setup. Johnston went on to
captain Ireland for 60 games and played a pivotal role in the sides success at the 2007 ICC
Cricket World Cup, culminating in a famous victory over Pakistan.
3TopSporTingEvEnTS...
1
THE ROAD CYCLING WORLD
CHAMPIONSHIPS is held in the
Dutch province of Limburg this
year, an area considered by many
to be the cycling El Dorado of the
Netherlands, full not only of elite
cyclists but recreational ones too.
Routes of varying degrees of difculty
are mapped and signposted for your
convenience. Runs September
15-23. uci.ch
2
THE LISTOWEL RACES
take place in the hometown of
playwright John B Keane. The
154th race meeting promises serious
racing and serious fun. Besides the
thrill of the races and a futter
expect music, the best dressed man
competition, Ladies Day and childrens
amusements. Runs September
16-22. Tickets 20, under 16s free;
listowelraces.ie
3
THE GREAT RIVER RACE
in London sees over 300
crews from around the world
competing. However, organisers dont
forget the fun rowers. Handicaps are
awarded on a slowest frst, fastest last
basis making sure everyone starts of
on an equal footing. The course races
up the Thames, passing landmarks
like Tower Bridge along the way.
September 15. greatriverrace.co.uk
On my Travels
NEWS PEOPLE
lucky to visit a few of them. Great
people, great weather and they love
their cricket. India is another gem to
visit. Theres such energy about the
country the people are so friendly
and so appreciative of life. Of course,
it helps that I like Indian food, unlike
some of my team mates who sufer
when were on tour there!
MY PROUDEST CRICKET
MOMENT WAS Captaining
Ireland in the 2007 ICC World Cup
when we beat Pakistan. It still gives
me goosebumps when I remember
the moment; being able to share it
with family and friends in Kingston,
Jamaica, was extra special.
WHEN ON TOUR, I ALWAYS BRING
My hair clippers. Im generally the
barber for the team. Hair Today
Gone Tomorrow is what the boys call
my styling enterprise. I keep it simple
and specialise in full head shaves and
mohawks.
GOINGON SAFARI IN SOUTH
AFRICA Was exhilarating but
nothing compared to the heart-racing
experience of navigating a tour bus
around Bangladesh. The roads are
sheer chaos and driving aggressively
is, apparently, the only way to survive.
THE NICEST TRIP IS Always the
one home to Dublin. After a long tour
away, just to see my wife Vee and the
kids is great. They all manage to bring
me down to earth straight away. And,
funnily enough, theres always a long
DIY list.
WHEN THE SUN SHINES, THERES
NOWHERE BETTER TOBE THAN
The west of Ireland. I was on holidays
there recently with my family and
we got great weather, which made
our trip to Kylemore Abbey, the
Clifs of Moher and the Aran Islands
such a joy.
Why travel far
for world class care?
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we offer, talk to your GP, visit www.orthopaedics.ie or Tel: 01 293 7575
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n Expert physicians n Prompt treatment n World class orthopaedic care
22 | SEPTEMBER 2012
MY BEAUTY MUSTS
International make-up artist,
Lisa Eldridge, works
with the worlds
top fashion
magazines and
celebrities for
red-carpet
events. She
reveals her
beauty tips for
travelling.
WHAT IS YOUR
BEAUTY REGIME WHEN
FLYING? I turn any plane journey into
a spa oppportunity. People who sit
beside me must think Im strange but
I don t care! First, I apply some Phyto
7 leave-in hair conditioner throughout
my hair and tie it back. Then I take o
my make-up using cleansing water. I pat
Eau de Beaut by Caudalie onto my skin
and then I begin to apply two masks:
Sisley Express Flower Gel is super
rming, and Dermalogica Skin Hydrating
Masque moisturises. I then apply
eye serum and Elizabeth
Arden Eight Hour Cream
to my lips and cuticles. A
layer of handcream is the
nal stage and then I either
sit back to watch a lm or
pop my sleep mask on and
try to get some sleep.
DO YOU DO THIS ON ALL
FLIGHTS? Yes, its not all
essential to do on a short ight
obviously, its a good excuse to
treat yourself and do treatments
that you might forget to do
normally. If Im ying long haul to
the other side of the world I will
do the regime twice.
AND BEFORE LANDING, WHAT DO
YOU DO? I nip to the loo and take
o the remnants of the masks and
clean my teeth. Then, when back in my
seat, I apply moisturiser all over and
liquid concealer under my eyes and to
any spots to even out my skin. Some
coloured lip balm is the nal touch and
I feel brighter and my skin looks supple
and glowy. I really believe in this regime.
Its a bit of a rigmarole but its a nice
ritual and the protective shield provided
by all these products is a moisture
magnet to stop skin de-hydrating.
TOP TRAVEL TIP? Drink plenty
of water!
NEWS BEAUTY
5
The Oribe
Aprs Beach
Wave and Shine
Spray, 37, is designed
to add texture as well
as shine but what
really makes this a
stand-out product is
the use of exotic oils
to ensure continuous
moisture levels as
well as styling to
perfection.
6
Sometimes the
best protection
against strong sun
is a physical one, so nd
a great hat or turban or
sip some cocktails in
the shade!
But when
venturing
out again,
the Wella
Professionals
Sun
Protection
Spray, 13.75,
is another high
performance
product that
oers many
treatment benets
for your hair as well as
providing a shield to
damaging UV rays. Don t
forget your scalp either
massage it in as you apply.
7
Whether youre
dipping into the pool
or swimming in the
sea, your hairs condition
is constantly being
challenged and in dire
need of a revitalising,
waterproof shield.
Krastase Aqua-
Seal, 24.30, does
exactly that.
Protecting
against UV rays
as well as water
aggressors
salt, chlorine
it improves the
texture, smoothes,
and adds shine.
BeautyONTHE GO
1
Krastase Huile
Cleste, 24.30,
is shimmering, light
hair oil containing
both UVA and UVB
lters, as well as
reective micro
particles to add a
touch of glamour
to your poolside
pose. It is also
great for slicking
back your hair
at night.
2
Chlorine and salt are
the enemies of hair
colour but Avedas
Sun Care hair and body
cleanser, 20.50, is a
willing warrior to your
colour preservation
cause. It removes
minerals found
in chlorinated
pool water
that can cause
discoloration
and the 100 per
cent organic
ingredients help to
remove salt and
product build up.
3
Sometimes
sun-
parched hair
just needs TLC.
Stressed, dry, dull
hair is made lustrous
again after a few
applications of the
Moroccanoil Intense
Hydrating Mask,
38. Five
minutes is
all that is
required
of this
argan-oil-rich
formula to bring back
condition, shine and
manageability. Its
exactly the welcome
home your post-
holiday hair needs.
4
Spritz the
cult product,
Bumble and
Bumble Surf Spray,
24.90, liberally
through damp hair and
let it dry naturally for
a sexy, beachy, matte
look. Its also great
for spraying hair
pre-plait so that, on
release, it turns into
perfectly tousled,
surfer girl waves.
The combination of sea and sun can be hard on your hair.
Ellie Balfe looks at top products to treat your tresses.
WHATSTHEBUZZ? Monart, thefve-star destinationresort inEnniscorthy,
CoWexford, has addedChineseacupuncturetoits stellar line-upof treatments.
Not onlydoes it helprebalanceenergybut it works wonders for thestressed; monart.ie
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24 | SEPTEMBER 2012
NW by Zadie
Smith (Hamish
Hamilton,
18.99) out
September 6.
Smiths fourth
novel, and her
frst in seven
years, is set
in London.
Te NW of the title is north-
west London, where Smith was
born and raised. It features four
thirtysomething characters two
male, two female who are former
friends from one of the areas housing
estates and now inhabiting very
diferent worlds. Expect sharp views
on class and race, and contemporary
prose classically framed. Smiths last
book, On Beauty, was framed by EM
Forster; this one is framed by Virginia
Woolf apparently.
Te Mystery of
Mercy Close by
Marian Keyes,
(Michael
Joseph, 18.99),
out September
13. Marian
Keyes returns
with one of
her funny,
soul-searching books that keep
being marketed as chick-lit
but are much darker and
edgier than is usual for
that genre: Helen Walsh
is a private investigator
at a crossroads in her life.
Teres a police investigation
the disappearance of a top
Irish boy band member but,
as ever with Keyes, the bigger
mystery is whats going on inside the
unravelling minds of the characters.
Te Cond
Nast Traveler
Book of
Unforgettable
Journeys:
Volume 2:
Great Writers
on Great Places
(Penguin,
10.23).
Fantastic collection of essays
matching great writers to
surprising places Edna
OBrien doesnt write about
Ireland but about Bath;
Robert Hughes looks at
Italy rather than Australia;
Edmund White goes
to Jordan. Tere are also
accounts of beautiful gardens
in Japan and the best free
things to do in Provence. Edited
by Klara Glowczewska.
Shelf LIFE
Fromtravel essays to novels by Zadie Smith and Marian Keyes:
Bridget Hourican previews the latest titles.
NEWS BOOKS
Whos reading what?
Thriller writer John Connolly thinks big books are best on trips.
WHAT ARE YOU READING?
Im working through a couple
of books, among them The
Daughter of Time by Josephine
Tey, which was recommended
by so many female authors
for the anthology Ive just
edited that I felt I had to try
it. Its very good and short.
As I become more aware
of my mortality, I become
increasingly grateful for short
books. Once thats done,
its on to Black Skies by
Arnaldur Indridason.
WHERE ARE YOU READING
IT? I still read in bed most
evenings, but I nd that
increasingly Im falling asleep
after a couple of pages. Now
I try to take a little time out
during the day in a coee shop
to read, often Simons Place
on Dublins South Great
Georges Street.
FAVOURITE PLACE TO
VISIT? Im still in love with
Portland, Maine. Its got
bookstores, galleries, decent
bars and restaurants, and a
Museum of Cryptozoology.
What more could you want?
BEST BOOK TO TAKE ON
HOLIDAY? I think big books
are best for holidays, so Ive
used long ights to get into
George R.R. Martin, who I don t
think Id have read otherwise.
Oh, and Dickens. You need
to set aside some time for
Dickens just to get into him, so
long ights and holidays are
ideal for a bit of Bleak House.
Not Hard Times, though. Lifes
too short for Hard Times.
THE BOOK YOU WISHED
YOU HADNT TAKEN ON
HOLIDAY? I have to be
careful here, but on a long
ight back from Australia I
once found myself reading a
thriller that a bookseller had
pressed on me, a thriller that
actually used the words one
thousand of your earth years
within the rst ten pages. It was
the only book I had with me.
I wanted to throw the book,
or myself, out of the plane
somewhere over Asia ...
The Wrath of Angels is published by
Hodder & Stoughton in hardcover at
17.99. Books to Die For, edited by
John and Declan Burke, is published
by Hodder & Stoughton at 25.
TRAVEL
BUG
Travel writing fans should
check out the Dolman Travel
Book Award (September 5). The
shortlist includes books on Tibet,
Italy, Sussex and South America
by some of the best up-and-
coming travel writers.
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Previews for multi award-winning author, Emma Donoghues newplay, The Talkof the Town, beginonSeptember 27at
Project Arts Centre, inDublins Temple Bar. The play is inspiredby the life andworkof pioneering writer Maeve Brennan
who left 1950s Dublinfor the glitz andglamour of NewYorkliterary circles; dublintheatrefestival.com

FICTION

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4 course Lunch
only 25incl wine
Quality traditional Irish food served daily
Open 7 days for Lunch and Dinner
Group bookings welcome
www.gogartys.ie
rLate Bar 7 nights a week till 2.30 amr
rLive Traditional Music sessions daily r
oliver st John
gogarty
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Temple Bar, DuBlin
58 -59 Fleet Street, Temple Bar,
Dublin 2
Tel: +353 (0)1 6711 822
email: info@gogartys.ie
Gogartys Temple Bar Hostel
from just 12B&B
Gogartys Self Catering
Apartments
from 99
Traditional Irish Bar, Restaurant
& Accommodation
September opening hours
09.00am - 7.00pm
26 | september 2012
T
hey call it the dream
factory and anyone who has
ever had even the slightest
contact with Dublins Absolut
Fringe festival will know why. Te
Fringe turns Dublin into a kind of
wonderland, a skewed sort of place
flled with top hats and fshnet tights,
an alternative universe that vanishes
as quickly as it appears, like a puf of
magicians smoke.
Tis year marks the festivals
18th birthday but, thankfully, it
doesnt show any signs of growing
up. Rise Goan is festival director
and describes the Fringe as uniquely
Irish. It has an urban attitude and
is all about celebrating with people
from diverse backgrounds. Were
always looking for something new
and stories that strike a chord.
While the Fringe is always
carnivalesque fun, it can be of-
putting to the uninitiated, with its
interactive and more avant-garde
pieces. People shouldnt be afraid,
says Goan. Tey might think
its going to be crazy, wacky and
that theyll be held hostage in a
theatre for two hours, but its hugely
accessible and in a language people
will understand.
One such work is Fltpck, an
opera based on the era-defning
experience known as Ikea. If the
word opera makes you itchy,
composer Tom Lanes latest work
is not opera as you know it. Te
structure is like a trip to Ikea (only
much more pleasurable), in that
you are guided along with a set of
instructions. Te opera takes place
throughout fve furnished rooms,
and the audience moves through the
FringeBenefts
One to watch from
the folks behind
the electro-musical
Alice in Funderland,
comes their latest
play Elevator,
starring Conor
Madden.
diferent rooms, with some scenes
taking place simultaneously. Te
libretto is made up entirely of the
names of Ikea products. While it
sounds like no opera Ive ever heard
of, director Conor Hanratty says
it does respect the traditions of the
form. Toms piece plays with the
rules rather than breaks them. And
the inspiration for the music? Aptly
enough, it came from a hand mixer ...
Fltpck is just one of about
525 events taking place in more
than 40 venues over the 16 days of
the Fringe so what should the
Fringe novice see? Goan advises
seeing more than one thing. Te
shows arent longer than an hour
and the tickets are cheap. I would
recommend an Australian cabaret
show called Briefs in Meeting House
Square and THISISPOPBABYs
Elevator, their follow up to Alice
in Funderland. For the more
urbane traveller, Singlehood by Una
McKevitt is a documentary theatre
piece featuring real people and real
lives on stage, looking at being single
in Dublin in 2012 and Farm, a piece
in a warehouse in the Docklands,
which is about looking at the
tensions between urban and rural
life and how three generations ago
everyone in Dublin was ... growing
our own food and being sustainable.
Whatever you choose to see at the
Fringe, it will defnitely be something
diferent. And when the festival
packs up and leaves town, you might
wonder if it was all a dream.
Absolut Fringe 2012 runs from September
8-23; fringefest.com
1
WILLIAM BUTLER YEATS,
SON OEUVRE, SA FAMILLE
The Centre Culturel Irlandais in
Paris is running a WB Yeats festival
throughout September and October.
One event not to miss is The Poetry
Hour on September 18 when a host
of luminaries, including Charlotte
Rampling, left, will read Yeats work as
a tribute to the late writer Josephine
Hart. centreculturelirlandais.com
2
ELECTRIC PICNIC The laid-back
music festival in Stradbally, Co
Laois, on August 31 -September
2, reaches the grand old age of eight
this year and features performances
by The Cure, The Killers and Elbow,
among others. Aside from great music,
there is fun to be had loafng around
the smaller stages, watching comedians
and authors, poets and politicians in the
spoken word tents. electricpicnic.ie
3
WARSAW FILM FESTIVAL,
WARSAW, POLAND The
Warsaw Film Festival in Poland
takes place October 1221 and is widely
considered to be one of the most
signifcant flm festivals in Europe after
Cannes. Its initial aim was to expose
its inhabitants to international cinema
towards the end of Communism in
Poland. Today it is considered a good
barometer for Oscar winners. wf.pl
Dublins Absolut Fringe festival promises uplifting contemporary theatre.
Edel Cofey reports on the highlights.
3ofthebestculturefests...
NEWS DIARY
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ENJOY THE BEST VIEWS OF DUBLIN
FROMTHE ROOF OF THE ICONIC CROKE
PARK STADIUM
ON THE EXCITING
NEW
ETIHAD SKYLINE TOUR.
IN
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28 | september 2012
T
he British and the Irish may
have a healthy rivalry on the
Six Nations rugby pitch or
any sport, for that matter
but when it comes to the business of
trading between the countries, there
is no doubt they are frmly on the
same side. To help boost each others
economy, they simply want to do
more business together.
Tats why A Taste of Britain,
a two-day trade development
event organised by UK Trade &
Investment, is to be held in Dublin
on September 26-27. Some 600
Irish buyers the powerful men
and women who choose what ends
up on supermarket shelves and
distributors have been invited
to enjoy an impressive spread
of British fare. Its part of a new
export drive designed to help
smaller companies overcome some
of the logistical hurdles they face
when trading internationally.
Mind you, its already something
of a success story. Te UK exports
more food and drink to Ireland
each year than to any other country
more, believe it or not, than it
exports to Brazil, Russia, India
and China combined. And its very
much a two-way street, with trade
between the two countries topping
1 billion a week, according to UK
Trade & Investment.
But theres more to be done.
In a joint statement issued by
the Taoiseach and British Prime
Minister last March, the agrifood
business was identifed as a key
area for cooperation between the
two countries. Both countries are
blessed with an amazing array of
food producers and manufacturers
and are keen to expand their export
business. John Reid, managing
partner at ORourke Reid, one of
the sponsors alongside Aer Lingus,
says, Britain is our largest trading
partner and ORourke Reid Law
Firm is proud to sponsor this
important initiative to enhance the
existing strong trade relationship
between us in this key sector.
So red carpets are being rolled
out in welcome. Te British
ambassador, Dominick Chilcott,
will kick of the event at the
embassy in Dublin and there will
be keynote speeches from the likes
of Tesco and Bord Bia. One of the
companies for whom Ireland is the
land of opportunity is Hawkshead
Relish, makers of award-winning
artisan preserves, who are looking
for a distributor as transportation
costs are high for a small
company. Ireland ofers great
potential for British companies as
culinary tastes are of a similar ilk,
explained marketing manager Kate
Nicholson.
Speciality cuisine is very much
relished within our joint cultures
in which regional provenance
is admired. Te UKs regional
produce ofers further provincial
identity and variety to what our
two great nations collectively
have to ofer in the very best of
speciality food.
TheTasteof Success
UK artisan food
producers will meet
Irish buyers at this
months A Taste of
Britain event.
Te best of Irish food will be on
show during store visits to Fallon
& Byrne, Avoca, Donnybrook Fair
and Superquinn in Ranelagh. But
this is Dublin and so delegates
must expect a classic Irish welcome,
with dinner to be enjoyed at an
array of wonderful restaurants
Pichet, Rolys, Ely and Rustic
Stone. It promises to be a win-
win occasion for the British and
Irish food industries. Te UK
and Ireland are very important
markets to each other, declares
Ambassador Chilcott. Te links
between our two countries have
never been stronger.
Visit britishembassyinireland.fco.gov.uk
for further information on A Taste
of Britain and event details.
1
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An army of foodies from both sides of the Irish
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30 | september 2012
IntervIew
SEPTEMBER 2012 | 31
Playing Gaelic football for Dublin was all Bernard Brogan ever wanted to
do. The teams chief scorer tells Ger Gilroy what winning an All Ireland
nal means and how he values bonding with his teammates more than
any personal glory. Photographs by Richard Gilligan.
C
hatting with Bernard
Brogan for a while
leaves you with three
striking images. One
is the footballer as
a starry-eyed kid
following his da, Bernard Senior a
brilliant footballer himself in the
golden era of the Dubs around the
city as hed meet former teammates,
the young mind collapsing into
daydreams of winning All Ireland
gaelic football championships. Te
next one is Bernard Brogan, trainee
accountant studying for exams,
the day after last years All Ireland
semi-fnal, when the Dublin team
reached their frst fnal since 1995.
Hes unable to concentrate thinking
of the fantasy-becoming-reality of
matching his das achievements. Te
fnal image is the one everyone sees
in Croker, and its a curious mixture
of the frst two. Its Bernard Brogan
the cold-eyed striker, footballer of the
year in 2010, where hes perplexing
defences, injecting pace and loving it
all living out his dreams.
I met him two days after the All
Ireland quarter-fnal against Laois
in this years championship, when
things hadnt gone that well for him
as an individual but, as part of the
collective, it had been a successful
outing. Teyd won a game theyd
been expected to win, but only just.
So do you still love football? He
laughs: Yeah, I do and I have said
it before, I play football because I
love it. Ive played it since I was fve
years of age and to play for Dublin
is a huge honour. When it starts to
TOP
Scorer
IntervIew
32 | september 2012
IntervIew
become a chore to go out to training
or to the gym on a Tuesday night
thats when Ill give it up. It doesnt
always go your way on the pitch
but you cant beat it, its everything
Ive always wanted to do. For the
uninitiated, Dublin are one of the
most scrutinised Gaelic football
teams in the country, amateur in
name but professional in all other
respects, apart from pay and time to
rest between games. At 28 years old,
their scorer-in-chief, Bernard Brogan,
is one of their most high-profle
players. His older brother Alan
wrestled the Player of the Year title
from Bernard last year and their little
brother Paul is a sub on the team. Its
a GAA dynasty.
What about when real life
impinges though? For all the
professional backroom teams,
endless preparation, media hype and
the endorsement deals, its still not
actually a job the bank wont accept
Gaelic footballer in the occupation
slot on a mortgage application. Im
just fnishing of my accountancy
exams theyre not easy ones, so Im
trying to get a bit of study done. Te
exams are coming up in September
the week after the All Ireland semi-
fnal [against Mayo]. Itll be very
difcult to try and study. He had
exams last year too, a few days after
playing the All Ireland semi-fnal
against Donegal.
I went home to try and do a bit
of study, knackered after the game,
with the euphoria of getting into our
frst All Ireland fnal. But I couldnt
study. I said Ill go to bed early and
be grand tomorrow and do a bit.
Got up on the Monday and all day
[was] just sitting at my desk thinking
about the game. So I hadnt studied
for fve days heading into the start
of the exams not the most ideal
preparation.
It would be easy to call a halt to
the exams and concentrate on the
fripperies of being a celebrity, to reap
the bounty of being an All Ireland
winner and make a featherbed of
those laurels. His face is on billboards
across the city and during the ad
breaks at the Olympics hes been
there on TV with Henry Shefin,
possibly our greatest-ever hurler, and
Olympic champion Katie Taylor, a
freshly minted global phenomenon.
It could easily go to your head but
Brogan is pretty sure it wont. In my
house, growing up, following my dad
around, everywhere we went he was
recognised for similar reasons he
had three All Irelands, an All Star
and was on Superstars and he is well-
recognised still. Wed grown up with
that and wed seen it and it kinda
inspired us when we saw the respect
he got of people and the craic he
used to have with people. Ten there
was the relationship he had with the
lads he played football with, the Pat
ONeills and Paddy Cullens of this
world. You see it when they meet up,
the glint in the eye when you meet a
man like that, that you won an All
Ireland with. You might never have
to say it but you just know, the two
of you. Its a very special thing.
Its a value system. Perhaps these
very values are what allowed Brogan
and his teammates to win Dublins
frst All Ireland in 16 seasons last
year in a county where expectation
outstrips reality. Te perception of
the Dublin team over the years of
failure from 1995 until last year,
rightly or wrongly, was that they
were the embodiment of some of
the excesses of celebrity culture
famous for being famous, prone
to believing their own hype but
incapable of standing up to the truly
great sides. Last year Brogan and
his teammates heaved that gorilla
from their shoulders. Tey no longer
have to watch Kerry and Tyrone, the
teams of the last decade, party each
September with the Sam Maguire
Cup and wonder how that feels.
Brogan has the same glint in his eye
that his dad has. And he deserves it.
All Ireland winning seasons
usually distil in the public mind to
a single incident or a few minutes.
Last years win for Dublin is down
to Stephen Cluxtons last minute
pointed free kick against Kerry
that secured a one-point win or,
depending on who is speaking, the
Bernard Brogan,
part of a GAA
dynasty, his father
won three All
Irelands, his older
brother Alan was
last years Player
of the Year, and
younger brother
Paul is a sub.
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IntervIew
34 | september 2012
IntervIew
Bernard on his
favourite
Book
Back from the
Brink by Paul
McGrath. I had
the chance
to meet and
chat to him
when the
Olympic fame
was over and
hes just such
a gentleman an unbelievably
talented person who has gone
through so much.
restaurant Wagamama
noodle bars healthy but nice, a
bit of goodness.
Bar Brogans Bar on Dame
Street, Dublin.
CluB Copper Face Jacks in
Harcourt Street, Dublin.
CIty Sydney its a million
miles away from home but its
like being out in Dublin city and
theres the beach and the sun,
and a good feel about it.
HolIday BeaCH or CIty?
I like the beach; I like Marbella as
well, always had good times over
there. I bounced around Thailand
with Eamo [fellow Dub player,
Eamon Fennell] going from island
to island and I lived the dream it
was something I always wanted
to do. One of my biggest regrets
was never going away to do the
J1 in the US. Once I got a bit
older I was involved in the Dubs
and could never get away but, if I
could say anything to young lads
or young footballers, Id say try
and get away if you can, even over
to Thailand or Australia, these
places are unbelievable the
people you meet and the stories
you have, things youll never
forget for the rest of your life.
MusIC David Guetta, dance
music, techno, dance stuf that
gets me going I listen to it
until I see manager Pat Gilroys
mouth moving at the start of his
team talk, and then I take of my
earphones. So Im listening very
close to running out on the pitch.
game and title were won because
of the hard running of super-sub
Kevin McManamon. In truth the All
Ireland win in 2011 was the result of
a couple of years of near misses, hard
work and endless hours training. Te
unglamorous stuf Brogan calls
it morning sessions twice a week,
up at half six and running laps in the
frost and cold, or in the gym, puking
at the side of the pitch. But it sounds
like you enjoy that? Yeah, hes
smiling, I like when you go through
that kind of torture with people and
you become so close to the lads that
youre training with and playing
with, lads you hang around with now
of the team, theyre like family at
this stage. We spend 20 hours a week
with them, the bond you get theres
no better feeling than when you
are really empty yourself and a day
when its lashing rain and its cold or
icy and youre mucky, youre in bits,
and everyone comes of the training
feld having run 50 laps of the pitch.
Teres such a sense of satisfaction
around the group when everyone
has put an honest days work in.
You cant beat that feeling, the
endorphins it releases after a training
session is second to none and thats
what I love about it.
Hes not just a glutton for
punishment though. Its all for a
reason. Its so that if hes standing
over the fnal ball knowing he has the
chance to win the game, hes got the
certainty that he has done the work
required. If the chance arises again
and someone has to be there to take
it, Ill take it Ive had some great
days with it and Ive had some poor
days with it and Ill keep going.
Were you always like that, even
as a kid? I always liked being
involved in the big plays, the pressure
situation, but its a team game and
you want to win as a team. Ive had a
year where I had a great year Player
of the Year but no-one to enjoy it
with. Its a team game and you want
to win as a team so you can enjoy it
as a team. Having personal glories
and great days is all well and good
but youre only enjoying it on your
own. Id prefer to be a bit part player
and do my bit than kicking eight or
nine points a game and not winning
the games.
And has life changed much? Te
best thing about being an All Ireland
winner is the people you do it with
and when you can look back in years
to come and enjoy the memory of it.
You dont realise it now but its such a
hard thing and such a hard road but
all that hard work is worthwhile in
the end. And hes got that glint in
his eye again ...
The All Ireland semi-fnal, Dublin v Mayo, is
held on September 2 at Croke Park. The All
Ireland fnal is on September 23. For more
information, visit gaa.ie. Aer Lingus is the
ofcial travel partner to Dublin GAA.
Having personal glories and great days is all well and
good but its a team game and you want to win as a
team so you can enjoy it as a team.
Bernard Brogan
in action during
the GAA Football
All Ireland Senior
Championship
quarter-fnal,
Dublin v Laois on
August 4 2012.
why mac?
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36 | SEPTEMBER 2012
PEOPLE
A
ccording to the 20th century
poet Patrick Kavanagh, the
standing army of Irish poets
never falls below ten thousand.
Contemporary writer Declan
Burke puts it another way: Ive
spotted twelve debut Irish crime writers this year
alone. Tere are probably more unpublished
novels in Irish drawers than anywhere else in the
world. Tis may be down to the strength of the
literary tradition; it may be down to a propensity
for economic recession during the boom years
Michael McLoughlin of Penguin Ireland worried
that all the money was inimical to good writing,
which thrives in the garret it may be down to the
weather, which John Banville swears is the best in
the world for writers. (Another way of saying that
boredom is the mother of creativity.)
Te generation of Irish writers Colm Tibn,
Anne Enright, Sebastian Barry, Pat McCabe,
Colum McCann who for years looked like
the Young Turks snapping at the heels of John
McGahern and William Trevor, is suddenly,
now, the old guard established writers who have
earned the worlds top literary prizes (Booker,
IMPAC, Costa, etc). In their place are the new
guard, writers in their late thirties and early forties,
whose work is beginning to get serious attention.
One of the great changes in Irish (and indeed
world) writing in recent decades is the movement
out of literary fction towards genres such as sport,
chick lit, crime, fantasy, horror and childrens
DIRECTION
A new guard of Irish writers is attracting serious
attention in a rapidly changing literary world. Six
of them tell Bridget Hourican about their chosen
genres and what inspires their work.
Photographs by Richard Gilligan.
Write
SEPTEMBER 2012 | 37
Kathleen MacMahon
As a debut novelist whos been
garnering much more media attention
than most debuts Kathleen MacMahon
thanks her lucky stars for the media
experience fromher former job as an
RT reporter. Of course it was on
the other side of the camera, but just
knowing studios and howit all works has
been incredibly useful. Otherwise I can
imagine it could be terrifying. Her rst
novel, This is Howit Ends (Sphere), made
headlines for the size of the advance
(600,000 in a two-book deal). Luckily
it also got great sales and reviews and,
despite a heavy summer of festivals and
promotions, she has almost nished her
second book.
The working title is Learning
Backwards. Its set in Ireland but about
people whove spent a lot of time living
abroad. Its about a marriage and that
moment of wondering is it a success so
its not as romantic as the last one.
This is Howit Ends was set against
the backdrop of the collapse of Lehman
Brothers and the Obama election. The
newbook has the backdrop of the rescue
of the Chilean miners and the Arab
Spring. For me, news roots a story and
gives me a framework.
She lives in Sandymount in Dublin
and, after dropping her twin daughters
at school and walking the dogs on the
strand, writes at the kitchen table. What
she loves about writing is the quiet,
being in my own space and being free to
just make it all up.
38 | SEPTEMBER 2012
people
fction. John Connolly, Marian Keyes,
Eoin Colfer these names are now as
recognisable, and their sales are larger,
than the old literary guard, and, of
course, writers like John Banville/
Benjamin Black are having it both
ways. Tis change is refected in our
chosen panel of writers, which runs the
gamut from crime to short stories to
ghost-writing.
Te Berlin-based Irish writer, Julian
Gough, complained recently that Irish
writing is all funeral in the rain dirges
set in the past, but he must be talking
about a very narrow terrain. Te writers
on our list have written dystopias, satire,
romance, supernatural, fnancial fction;
the setting isnt always Ireland and the
main impetus is to entertain, not to
be compared with Joyce. Tese writers
are very diferent, but similar in their
humour, playfulness and fexibility. All
express impatience about the idea of
false divides, hierarchies and barriers
between literary forms. Kevin Barry
talks of rotating crops as he goes
back and forth between short stories,
novels, screenplays, graphic stories.
Of course, these writers are operating
in a new and diferent climate.
Anonymous online reader reviews
have taken the place of peer reviews
from the Irish Times, TLS and the
Guardian. Fans are blogging, tweeting
and Facebooking their preferences. In
an age of diminishing advances from
publishers, literary festivals have become
as important to writers as concerts
are to musicians. Writers who work
their readings like actors have a huge
advantage. TV is no longer hackwork
everyone recognises its where some of
the best writing is. Te rise of eReaders
may be of concern to publishers, but
writers are taking the development in
their stride. Have they considered the
devastation pirated downloads could
wreak on the industry? Declan Burke
says calmly, theres always been, and
always will be narrative, no matter how
its delivered.
Advances, blurbs, paperbacks,
literary prizes if they go up in smoke,
the standing army will fnd new
artillery, as long as there are readers.
And readers there certainly are check
out the festivals or the blogosphere
and in greater numbers than ever
Declan Burke had two books out last
month: Slaughters Hound (Liberties
Press), his fourth novel and set in his
native Sligo, is what he calls straight,
hard-boiled crime, a flthy, grimy slice
of noir, and Books to Die For (Hodder
& Stoughton), which he co-edited with
John Connolly a collection of essays
by the worlds greatest living crime
and mystery writers on their favourite
crime novels.
The two projects showcase Burkes
gifts as writer and as editor/
evangelist for crime writing. His blog,
Crime Always Pays, is the frst port of
call for those seeking info on Irish
crime writing. Last year he again had
two books out as novelist and editor
Down these Green Streets is a
collection of essays by Irish crime
writers; Absolute Zero Cool is a
hilarious, prize-winning, tongue-in-
cheek take on the crime genre, which
has more in common with Flann
OBriens The Third Policeman than
with The Silence of the Lambs.
Burke, who now lives in Wicklow
and has a small daughter, has a day job
as a freelance journalist, and, yes, he
fnds it demanding juggling the jobs of
novelist, journalist, editor and
unofcial spokesman for Irish crime
writing: I wrote Slaughters Hound
between 5am and 7am but that was
taxing. For the next book Ill try 9pm
to midnight. His great strengths are
his humour, freshness of approach
and his understanding of the
constraints of his chosen genre
which means he can play around
with them when he wants.
Declan Burke
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40 | SEPTEMBER 2012
PEOPLE
Claire Kilroys fourth novel, The
Devil I Know, just released from
Faber & Faber, deals head-on with
the collapse of the Celtic Tiger.
The setting is futuristic: a tribunal
or truth commission in 2016, asking
questions about what went wrong
eight years earlier its set out Q&A
like The Trial. Kilroy started writing
it in 2008 when the word recession
was rst being bandied. I was writing
as events unfolded. When the IMF
came in, thats when the novel
descended into the supernatural.
Its a new kind of novel for Kilroy
the readings Ive done so far have
turned into heated debates about
bankers and property developers.
Her previous novels deal with the
art and literary worlds and are set in
Europe and in Dublin in the 1980s.
She wanted to write about Dublin
in the here and now but during the
boom years couldnt nd a way in.
I found we were getting obnoxious
and pretentious. There was nothing
funny about it.
Generally, she starts writing at
1pm and goes on until she makes
some progress, but this may change.
Im having a baby in November so
thats something quite new. I dont
know how it will change but it will all
change. Im not working on another
novel right now. Im pretty sure that
when I do, Ill be returning to the
female world my last two books
are very male.
Claire Kilroy
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people
Going to a Kevin Barry reading is as
near as the literary circuit gets to a
rock concert there are the devoted
fans who turn up time and time again,
and theres his trademark delivery,
roguish, theatrical and perfectly
suited to the aural quality of his
writing, which he describes as writing
fromvoices. So its not that surprising
to hear that, although he spent his
twenties only thinking of fction for
the page, hes nowincreasingly
thinking of writing for actors. He
has just fnished the frst draft of
the screenplay for his novel, City of
Bohane, and would love to collaborate
with other writers on TV dramas.
Hes also working on a graphic
book with Spanish artist Ali Mercado,
and admires the way visual artists
are much more open to trying new
ways of doing things writers can get
stuck in fxed habits. He is constantly
trying out newtechniques writing
at diferent times of the day and night
to keep things fresh. After years of
wandering, he nowlives in a converted
barracks in Sligo, but still travels for
sun in February and for readings and
is good at writing on the hoof.
His work can go in unexpected
directions and be quite disparate
City of Bohane is high-octane,
dystopic, noir-ish ; his short story,
Beer Trip to Llandudno, which
won the Sunday Times short story
award, is naturalistic and low-key; the
connecting thread is the twisted
comedy.
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44 | SEPTEMBER 2012
people
It takes childrens author Niamh
Sharkey about a year to produce a
picture book theyre hand-drawn
and oil painted, which takes the
longest but the time is worth it.
Her frst book, The Gigantic Turnip,
won the Bisto and the Mother
Goose awards in 1999 and has been
translated into 20 languages. Shes
currently working with Disney on
animating her Hugglemonsters book,
about a family of monsters, into a
52-episode, pre-school series, which
will be broadcast on Disney Junior in
150 countries next year. She has also
just been made Laureate na ng, or
childrens laureate, which involves
raising the profle of childrens books
here and abroad through readings,
school events, workshops.
Sharkey who has three children
aged between six and ten, on whom
she tests her books comes from an
illustrators background. She studied
art and design in Dublin Institute of
Technology and ideas for books come
visually at frst. Generally I get an
image of a character and do a rough
drawing. My biggest infuences are
Maurice Sendak (Where the Wild
Things Are), Dr Seuss and the Muppet
Show, so I like strong characters and
monsters.
One of her aims as Laureate
na ng is to give a picture book to
every child born in Ireland during her
tenure (which continues until 2014).
According to a recent survey, 20 per
cent of parents never read with their
kids. I want to change that.
Niamh Sharkey
SEPTEMBER 2012 | 45
46 | SEPTEMBER 2012
PEOPLE
The best place to see four of our six writers is
the Dn Laoghaire Mountains to Sea festival,
September 4-9, mountainstosea.ie. Kevin Barry,
Claire Kilroy, Niamh Sharkey and Declan Burke are
all reading or giving workshops there.
Kathleen MacMahon will be reading at the
Electric Picnic in Co Laois, September 1-2;
Aspects Festival, Bangor, Co Down, September 26
and the Manchester Literature Festival in the UK,
October 15. Check out kathleenmacmahon.com.
Gerard Cromwell
When Gerard Cromwell took on the
task of ghost-writing cyclist Nicolas
Roches memoirs, he said he wasnt
going to do it if it didnt win Sports
Book of the Year which may have
sounded kind of arrogant for
someone who had never had a book
published but he knew he could do it
because he wasnt afraid to ask the
right questions. In the event, Inside
the Peloton won the 2011 Irish Sports
Book Award.
Cromwell worked for Irish Rail
for 20 years, after growing up
in Balbriggan, Co Dublin, where
nobody ever told me you could be
a writer. However, as a competitive
sportsman (GAA, soccer, and
cycling), he started contributing
articles to websites and blogs and
soon got work as a freelance sports
journalist. He ghost-wrote Roches
cycling diaries for the Irish Daily Star
and Irish Independent and built up
trust over a number of years before
tackling the memoir.
Building trust is crucial to ghost-
writing. It also helps that Cromwell
likes getting inside someones
head and knows what the ordinary
person wants to know and its not
necessarily the sporting aspect.
Hes not committed to telling a
sports story it could be a celebrity,
politician or an ordinary Joe with an
extraordinary story. Lots of people
have great stories but no clue how
to transform theminto a book.
Thats my job.
WHERE TO SEE THEM
S
H
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.C
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;
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.C
O
M
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wicklowway
48 | september 2012
SEPTEMBER 2012 | 49
From sunlit woods to mountain views, the beauty of the Wicklow
Way on Dublins doorstep takes Peter Murtaghs breath away. He
charts the ups and downs of the 129km trail in a six-day odyssey.
Photographs by Peter Matthews.
ROCKS
WICKLOW
WICKLOWWAY
50 | SEPTEMBER 2012
A Sunday in July; 10am, Marlay
Park in the Dublin suburb of
Rathfarnham the start of the
Wicklow Way, the 129-kilometre
trek south through the Dublin and
Wicklow mountains, all the way
down to Clonegal in Co Carlow.
Te frst thing I notice as I set of,
saying goodbye to Moira, my wife,
and our beloved dogs, is the number
of people running around the park,
mainly women in Lycra-type ftness
gear. Most of them are wearing
headphones, voices yammering
away between their ears as they
trot through the pastoral parkland.
Why would anyone want to be out
in the countryside while denying
their senses the pleasure of hearing
the wind whooshing through the
shrubbery and the tree tops? Odd.
Its a fne, clear day in an
otherwise miserable (so far) summer.
Te sun is shining and the sky is a
mix of blue and billowing clouds.
Te trail, well marked with the
distinctive Wicklow Way black posts
(made of recycled plastic) and their
yellow directional arrow, wends
its way through a copse lining the
banks of a stream.
Te bed is glistening bright sand,
golden brown through the peaty
mahogany water. Fragments of mica
twinkle in the sun evidence of
granite, the wonderful rock that
built the mountains, and much of
Dublin besides.
Te hum of trafc is never far
of; Ive yet to leave the city behind
Te Way exits the park and licks
alongside the M50 for a while. And
DAY 1
then, having dipped underneath
the motorway and past the entrance
to St Columbas College, it soon
enters Kilmashogue Woods.
Purple foxgloves line the trail and
the air is sweet with the smell of
pine. Dublin, its sprawl all too
obvious as one gains height,
gradually recedes into
the distance. But for
a while, there are
great views of the
Bay and Howth
and Lambay
Island and
beyond them all,
the Mournes in
Northern Ireland.
In what seems
like no time at
all, I am crossing an
TRAVEL
LIGHT
Many B&Bs operate a
baggage transfer service from
one stop to the next, or you could
try Wicklow Way Baggage, which
oers door-to-door transfers for
15 minimum, 086 269 8659;
wicklowwaybaggage.com
Above, the
magnicent
waterfall at
Powerscourt,
right, Peter
sets o on the
Wicklow Way.
J
ohnnie Foxs has it all, a living museum of Irish tradi-
tion in the heart of the mountains serving a superb
a la carte menu daily from 12.30 until late - 7 days and
nights a week.
For the extra treat one should experience the world
famous HOOLEY nights of traditional music, song and
dance with a full 4 course meal at only 48pp.
Johnnie Foxs is situated on top of the Dublin moun-
tains borderingWicklow, it is 40 mins from the city
centre and 10 mins from Dundrum or Enniskerry.
Getting up the mountain is so easy now, the shuttle
bus service operated by ExpressBus.ie (01 8221122)
is only 10 per person return, so make a booking as
soon as you can - you wont regret it......
Want a full nights entertainment?
The longest running all year round
traditional music and dance show
The HOOLEY
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.. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
wicklowway
52 | september 2012
upland shoulder between Tibradden
(467m*) and Two Rock (536m)
mountains; small hills for sure, but
the sense of remoteness is huge. Te
land is boggy, theres lots of heather
and other moorland plants, and the
wind is strong.
I can think of no other capital
city that has such enriching treasure
on its doorstep.
Te Way descends into the
Glencullen River valley and uses
the road for a kilometre or two
before rising again along the fank
of Prince Williams Seat (555m),
the boundary mountain separating
Dublin and Wicklow.
Careful on that road, advises
a fellow walker heading in the
opposite direction to me. Listen
with your ears ...
Im walking through Curtlestown
Wood, eyes on the trail about
three metres ahead of me, when
Im delivered a treat: a pine marten
long, slinky, dark brown and
unmistakable ambles across the
path, not paying me a blind bit
of notice, and disappears into the
woods again. I do wish he had
lingered
Te An ige hostel (anoige.ie) on
the south side of Knockree (342m)
will be grand for the night. Twenty-
two kilometres in a little over fve
hours. Tatll do for starters.
Day 2
In the morning, I wake to fnd
Ive shared a bedroom with Jack
and Ellen, from Blanchardstown
and Clondalkin respectively. Tey
are very young and in love and
share the pleasures of the outdoors.
Jack has walked great distances
for Gaisce, the presidential award
system that challenges young people
to be adventurous and test their
physical limits. Ellen is bristling
with confdence, energy and chatter.
Tey cycled some 50km to get to the
hostel yesterday evening and will be
of home today.
Im of down through a lush feld
of grass and bracken to the Glencree
River. Te Way hugs its banks;
peaty water laps around moss-clad
boulders; beech, ash and rowan
trees create dappled sunlight along
the trail. Up through Crone Wood
and, after a while, I enter a beautiful
deciduous forest of beech trees
along a wide, stone-lined avenue. It
leads to Ride Rock, a perch from
which I can gaze in wonderment at
Powerscourt Waterfall, Irelands
highest, where the Dargle River
waters tumble 121 metres down an
escarpment of sheer mica-schist.
Below is the wooded deer-park
amphitheatre into which the river
plunges. Day trippers down there
appear ant-sized to me as I peer over
the edge. A really powerful wind
whips across the valley from the
south-west, swooping down and
then up again, up over Ride Rock,
bending the pine trees and making
the heather and fraughan bushes
quiver.
Fantastic, isnt it? says the man
standing behind me, making me
start at his unexpected appearance.
Yes, I agree, absolutely fantastic
breath-taking, epic, wonderful.
Clockwise, from
top left, the Way
passes through the
woods at Djouce;
a lone sheep
above Lough Tay;
the tree-lined
Upper Lake at
Glendalough; the
Red Fly Agaric
(amantia muscaria)
mushroom.
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Italian experiences, brought to you by
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Traditional Italian trattoria restaurant.
26 Lower Ormond Quay, D1. Tel: +353 (1) 8741000
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wicklowway
54 | september 2012
Te man is Dave Harris and hes
from Tallaght. He began walking
the Way from Clonegal on Saturday.
Its Monday today and Clonegal is
a shade under 100km away. So that
would be running, Dave, yes? Yes,
Dave agrees, running for much of
the way. Forty kilometres for his
Day 1; the same again for his Day 2.
Today is to be his fnal day which
means hell be doing over 50km
before he hits staggers into?
Marlay Park.
Eh, why? I ask, why? Daves
story is that he counsels survivors
of institutional abuse, a horror story
of modern Ireland about which he
personally knows more than anyone
deserves to know. Dave climbed
his personal mountain by studying
and qualifying as a psychotherapist,
for which he recently completed
his thesis.
To be honest, its been heavy
enough and I said when I was
fnished, Id do this get out
and walk, get back to a bit of
nature. And of he goes, a quietly
inspirational man. A few feet away,
theres a bench with a memorial
plate to a Grace Dawson and the
inscription: When you only see
one set of footprints, thats when I
carried you.
Te valley of Glensoulan is a
lush delight of bracken and grass
before the more severe, east-facing
shoulder of Djouce Mountain, the
highest part of the Way at around
600m (725m if you detour to
the summit), but a graceful, non-
taxing walk along the boardwalk
over White Hill to the majestic
panorama across Luggala and
Lough Tay. Te view is huge epic
in scale and wonderful to behold.
WEATHERPROOFING... As weather conditions canchange at the dropof a hat in
Ireland, it is advisable topackpractically for any expedition. At a minimum...
a waterproof jacket, comfortable hikingboots andsocks, a warmhat, gloves
anda feece jacket are all essentials - as are lighter under-layers of clothing.
Sitting there just looking at it as
time passes restores and rejuvenates
something deep inside.
Te night is spent at Marlyn
Kinlans B&B, the Wicklow Way
Lodge, at Oldbridge by Lough
Dan. Eighteen kilometres over
six hours.
Day 3
Today I am joined by Patrick, my
22-year-old son, which is great. Two
years ago, with my then 18-year-
old daughter Natasha, I walked
the Camino de Santiago in Spain
and we wrote a book about our
journey (Buen Camino! A Father-
Daughter Journey from Croagh
Patrick to Santiago de Compostela;
Gill and Macmillan). Patrick
is into the walk immediately, soon
commenting on the natural beauty
all around us.
I always knew Wicklow was
lovely, he says as we head around
Scarr Mountain (641m), then up
Paddock Hill (360m) and down
to a delightful footbridge over the
Glenmacnass River, but theres
just so much of it; everywhere you
turn, its beautiful.
Above, ruins in the
rock-strewn valley
of Glendalough.
M.J. ONeill
Suffolk Street, Dublin 2
Tel. 01 679 3656
www.oneillsbar.com
Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm
Fri: 8.00am-12.30am
Sat: 8.00am-12.30am
Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm
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surround the world-renowned ONeills.
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uninterrupted for over 300 years. ONeills
is conveniently set in the heart of Dublin.
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wicklowway
56 | september 2012
piety and learning that included
seven churches, one a cathedral,
and round tower, the Way proceeds
to the Spink. Te word is derived
from the Irish for sharp rock, or clif,
which is appropriate: the Way scales
the short Poulanass valley, whose
waterfall over centuries dumped
sufcient debris in Glendalough to
slice the valley foor in half, thus
creating the Upper and Lower lakes,
hence the Glen of the Two Lakes.
At the top of Poulanass, the
Way goes straight through
the forest but dont go
there turn right instead.
Dont be put of by
the several hundred
railway sleeper steps
rising steeply through
the trees; the reward is
worth it. Some 380m up,
you will be standing on
top of the Spink enjoying
breathtaking, panoramic
views of the entire valley of
Tats what happens when you
walk, as opposed to drive or even
cycle, through a place; you notice
things that otherwise slip by.
For anyone interested like me in
geomorphology or geology, Wicklow
is a sweet shop. Te rocks over
which Patrick and I are walking
began life some 600 million years
ago, when mud and sand from
rivers accumulated a little south
of the Equator. Te sheer weight
of the mud and sand transformed
it into shale, slate and schist, that
rock so beloved of schoolboys (Sir,
sir, Murtaghs after stepping on a
large piece of schist, sir ). And
then, around 400 million years
ago, from deep inside the Earths
crust, volcanic granite pushed up
like a fst, never bursting through
the rocks above but distorting and
metamorphosing them into
mica-schist.
All of this happened when
what we now call Ireland was but
a tiny part of Pangaea, the name
geologists gave to the enormous
single landmass of continents,
joined together before they began
to drift apart about 200 million
years ago. Wicklow today was
sculpted thereafter by water and
wind and, most of all, by ice. Sheet
ice covered the mountain tops and
glaciers turned the four great river
valleys Glenmacnass, Glendasan,
Glendalough and Glenmalure
into U-shaped valleys.
Day 4
We spent the night in
the An ige hostel in
Glendalough (just 10km
from Oldbridge; I wanted
to go easy on Patrick I
neednt have bothered!).
After walking through
the extraordinary monastic
settlement of St Kevin, the 6th
to 12th century seat of Christian
green
caf
In the Glendalough neck of
the woods, when weary walkers
seek comforting sustenance,
Clodagh Dufs well-stocked Green
Caf and Deli, in Laragh Village, is
a must-stop. Open daily 8.30am-
5pm (6pm on Sunday),
0404 451 51.
Left, into the
forest, Peter, left,
and Patrick leaving
Shillelagh, and
right, a foxglove
brings summer
colour along
the Way.
SEPTEMBER 2012 | 57
PLACES TOSTAY...
KNOCKREE AND
GLENDALOUGH HOSTELS
Both clean, very well run, oering
breakfast and other meals. 21 a
night for a bunk bed and access
to communal kitchen. (anoige.ie)
WICKLOWWAY LODGE B&B
(01 281 8489; wicklowwaylodge.
com) A little pricey but very high
spec and a warm welcome from
proprietor. 60 single occupancy
of twin bedroom with ensuite.
CAMPINGOcially not
allowed within the Wicklow
Mountains National Park.
Outside, seek permission from
landowner or camp, as we did,
discretely on public property
and leave no trace. Upside total
independence. Downside weight
of tent.
MUCKLAGH MOUNTAIN
MEITHEAL HUT (pathsavers.
org) Three-sided, wooden
oor, volunteer-assembled,
mountainside shelter with some
communal equipment, including
rainwater butt, campre and
maybe a pot or pan, and
picnic table. Basic but close to
nature! Free.
OTHER OPTIONS There are
several B&Bs on the Way or
close to it, in places such as
Roundwood, Enniskerry and
Laragh. There are hotels as well,
including The Glendalough
Hotel (B&B from 50, 0404 451
35; glendaloughhotel.com), The
Glenmalure Lodge (B&B from
35, 0404 461 88) and Brook
Lodge in Macreddin Village near
Aughrim (B&B from 60 pps,
0402 364 44; brooklodge.com).
All will assist with taxis to and
from the Way itself.
Glendalough. Teres a big wow!
factor here: the sheer drop beneath
ones feet; the glaciated U-shape
more obvious than ever and, on
the side of the valley, the boundary
between the mica-schist and the
granite is visibly obvious.
And it is at that precise join,
where the volcanic granite of quartz,
feldspar and mica, meets the schist,
in a seam running up the sides of the
valley, that rare minerals are found
galena, the base mineral of lead,
garnet gem stones and pyrite, the
aptly nicknamed fools gold.
Te abandoned 19th century
mines at the head of the valley and
cone of mine tailings tipping down
the side of the valley are evidence
of what used to happen here. I love
this place; I love the story it has to
tell. I love reading the landscape, the
epic journey that started 600 million
years ago and continues today before
my eyes. You dont get that on the
internet or sitting watching TV.
Te walk along the top of the
Spink licks around the edge of the
forest and up the side of Mullacor
Mountain (657m), rejoining
the Way before descending to
Glenmalure. And then, suddenly
about 100 metres in front of us on
the trail, without warning or fuss,
stands a young stag, a prince of
the forest; erect and frm in poise,
staring straight at us, sizing us up.
We freeze; he stays looking long
enough for me to get the picture,
before walking calmly back into the
forest. We see two more before our
Way is over, two females we think.
A celebratory pint is called for in the
Glenmalure Lodge (0404 461 88)
the only pub actually on the Way.
Te night is spent in the
Mucklagh Mountain Meitheal
hut on the side of Carrickashane
Mountain (508m) after a bottle
of Chilean Merlot, beans cooked in
their tin on the open fre and toasted
cheese sandwiches. Some early Bob
Dylan Maggies Farm; Its Alright
Ma (Im only bleeding) on Patricks
iPod never sounded better. Its life
and life only.
About 26km in nine hours,
breaks included. Not bad for a
59-year-old trying to keep pace with
a 22-year-old!
Top, Glendaloughs
Round Tower
at St Kevins
6th-century
monastic ruins;
encountering a
prince of the
forest. Mucklagh Mountain Meitheal Hut
WICKLOWWAY
58 | SEPTEMBER 2012
THE HIGHS AND LOWS
HIGHS Quality time with my
son and showing him landscape
that will live within him forever;
seeing the pine marten and young
stag; the wild remoteness of the
mountains; the wayside owers;
best weather of the month; not
being in the oce
LOWS The awful humidity; the
weight of the tent (my bad choice)
not a lot else, really!
GET EQUIPPED
IRISHTRAILS.IE the National
Trails Oces comprehensive
nationwide information resource.
WICKLOWWAY.COM good
description of route and range of
accommodation available.
OSI.IE Irelands national mapping
agency; use Discovery Series
numbers 56 and 62 and bring a
compass must-have tools of the
Way; 8.25 each.
RUCSACS.COM The Wicklow
Way (Rucksack Readers, 10.99)
by Jacquetta Megarry and Sandra
Bardwell; excellent spiral-bound
guide with handy, laminated,
fold-down map, breaking the route
into measured stages. A good
companion to the OSI maps.
Below, father and
son enjoying their
journey.
DAY 5
Tere is a big, big sky during the
night in the Mucklagh hut, one side
open to the elements and a very hard
wooden foor on which to sleep. Te
sky is ablaze with stars and with
dawn comes a stillness to the start
of the day. On the lower slope of
the forest, just above Iron Bridge,
machines like things from Te War
of the Worlds are stomping their way
through the trees, thinning them out
material for fence posts.
From the west side of Shielstown
Hill (536m), the fatter and richer
lands of Kildare and Carlow stretch
before us, forests giving way to
a patchwork of felds, equestrian
and arable farming. Sadly now,
roads also begin to take over from
forest tracks and mountain trails;
theres a long stretch of tarmac from
Shielstown, through Moyne and
beyond. Te Way goes of-road again
at Coolafunshoge Hill (431m),
through beautiful grass and bracken
sheep pasture where we hear the call
of birds of prey, before dropping
down to Tinahely for a late lunch in
Murphys hotel and bar (0402 381
09) earned after 25km.
DAY 6
A lift to Shillelagh, where we camp
the night beside the towns Derry
River, cuts out maybe 13km of
unwanted road walking between
there and Tinahely. We take up
the Way again at Raheenakit and
the forest covering Aghowle Hill
(420m) where the enormously tall
pines lining the entrance give the
appearance of a cathedral. More road
leads to the fnal forest at Moylisha.
At Osbornes (053 937 7359)
in Clonegal, a must stop for all
Wicklow Way walkers, Essie
Osborne maintains a delightfully
old fashioned, almost daft, pub that
she and her husband restored from
a hardware and grocery store some
40 years ago. Entering Osbornes is
stepping back in time. Te counter is
rough old pine and behind the bar,
box drawers that used to contain
horseshoe nails and Woodbine
cigarettes are on show.
But theres nothing dusty about
the cheery welcome Essie bestows
on all comers unofcial Wicklow
Way certifcate included! or the
welcome, the very welcome, liquid
refreshment on ofer for thirsty
walkers.
* Heights indicated are for mountain tops;
in almost all instances, the Way passes
some metres below the summits.
I
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B
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In Ireland
rsa.ie
newyork
60 | september 2012
Shopping &
New Yorks a go-go when it comes to superb shopping options.
Lizzie Gore-Grimes gets to the covetable core of the Big Apple.
Photographs by Joanne Murphy.
The CiTy
september 2012 | 61
NEWYORK
62 | SEPTEMBER 2012
T
heres nothing
predictable
about New York
City; its the
kind of place
where youre
likely to fnd a
doggie gym next
to a Michelin-
star restaurant,
a disco in a former convent and
some of the tastiest Mexican food in
town being served out of a vintage
Combi van. And as for the style
architecturally, its one of the most
stunning cities in the world, with
Art Deco gems such as the Chrysler
building and the Empire State. Ten
there are the people New Yorkers
are masters of the perfect accessory.
From statement glasses, to a quirky
hat or cute dog, they get it just right.
All of this is precisely what
makes a shopping trip to New York
so exciting. Its a city free from
homogeny; every face, look and
personality is diferent. Much the
same can be said about the citys
bustling neighbourhoods from
elegant Midtown, to fashion
forward Soho, Indie Nolita and
the East Village, its all on tap. Te
only snag is where to start? A good
place is with the list of shopping
requests your nearest and dearest
have no doubt lumbered you with.
Whether its designer denim,
great value cosmetics, Hollister
gear for the cool kid in your life or
an American Girl doll for a little
madam, its good to tick them
of frst and Midtown
will sort you out on
all fronts. If you
like shopping
under one roof,
the old reliables
are Barneys
(660 Madison
Avenue;
barneys.com),
Bloomingdales
(1000 Tird
Avenue;
bloomingdales.com)
and Saks (Fifth Avenue;
saksffthavenue.com) in this neck
of the woods. While the rest of Fifth
Avenue will threaten to empty your
wallet fast. All the top designers are
here Prada, Louis Vuitton,
Gucci and more but also
plenty of mid-range
greats too with
Tommy Hilfger,
Abercrombie
& Fitch,
Anthropologie,
Michael
Kors, 7 for
all Mankind,
Kenneth Cole
and Kate Spade
among others
(visit5thavenue.com).
For the little girl in
your life, American Girl Place
(609 Fifth Avenue at 49th Street;
americangirl.com) is doll heaven
Above, a big Mack
pulls in by the
Manhattan Bridge
overpass, Brooklyn;
right, writer Lizzie
Gore-Grimes
seeks out the
perfect New York
accessories.
JETSET
As of March 2013 all Aer
Lingus ight operations from and
to Dublin, Shannon and JFK will
operate out of JetBlues Terminal 5 at
JFK airport, promising same-terminal
connecting times, plus access to
fantastic shopping and dining
facilities, voted some of the
best in the US.
SEPTEMBER 2012 | 63
Clockwise from top right, Pedro
Carta and Jacob Sadrak enjoying
fresh tacos at Tacombi; Franklin,
employee of the month, at
Magnolia Bakery on 6th Avenue;
artists agent Chris Taha hangs out
in the ber-funky V Bar & Caf
on Sullivan Street; Helen Luchars
and her pooch Marty chill out in
Washington Square Park.
NEW YORK
64 | SEPTEMBER 2012
SLEEP AT...
CONTEMPORARY COOL Start
your NYC odyssey in style at the
recently opened Yotel (570 Tenth
Avenue at West 42nd Street, New
York; yotel.com; +1 646 449 7700).
Pretty much everything is white,
with soft rounded corners; you
check in by touchscreen and left
luggage is manned by a robot.
Once up on the fourth oor at
reception, the musics hip and the
sta attractive. Theres an outdoor
terrace for drinking and dining and
a funky Asian restaurant. Rooms,
or cabins, as theyre called,
are small but cleverly designed
boasting super-speed Wi-Fi,
compact storage, recharge stations
and a good shower. Double rooms
from $150 in low season but
ratchet up pretty quickly to about
$350 in high season.
CLASSIC COMFORT If you like a
home from home when you travel,
then youll love The Fitzpatrick
Grand Central (141 East 44th
Street, New York; tzpatrickhotels.
com; 1800 367 7701). The hotel
provides warm Irish hospitality
in a classic hotel setting. The
guestrooms, corridors, and public
spaces were renovated last year
and all rooms boast trouser press,
in-room tea and coee making,
pay-per-view movies, 24-hr room
service and full laundry service.
The outdoor terrace of the
Wheeltapper bar is always buzzing
and is hugely popular with local
New Yorkers. Double rooms start
from $159 in low season.
BOUTIQUE FIND If youre looking
for something special for your New
York experience, try Lafayette
House (38 East 4th Street, New
York; lafayettenyc.com; +1 212 505
8100), a beautifully renovated
Victorian brownstone just o
the Bowery that has 15 rooms,
each furnished with hand-picked
antiques and original replaces
but also boasting modern creature
comforts such as air conditioning
and 400 thread-count linens.
Rooms are pricey (starting at $350)
but hotels dont get much more
boutique than this.
DONTMISS... The Bookof MormononBroadway, the brainchildof Trey Parker and
Matt Stone (Emmy-winningcreators of SouthPark). The productionhas been praisedas
surprisingly sweet andsmart as hell; see newyorkcitytheatre.comfor more details.
Above, the
fabulous Beacons
Closet vintage
store in Greenwich
Village; right, the
attractive window
at Anthropologie.
while little (and not so little) boys
will love everything in the giant
Lego store (620 Fifth Avenue at
50th Street) in the Rockefeller
Center. Once here, drop your bags
and refresh over lunch at the Rock
Center Caf (20 West 50th Street,
+1 212 332 7620), a true Deco gem
where the summer al fresco terrace
transforms into a picture-postcard
ice-skating rink in winter.
As night falls, stay in Great
Gatsby mode, and visit Te
Campbell Apartment in Grand
Central Station (15 Vanderbilt
Avenue, +1 212 953 0409;
hospitalityholdings.com) for one
LOUIS FITZGERALD HOSPITALITY
Temple Bar,
Ph: +353 1 670 8777
www.arlingtonhoteltemplebar.com
OConnell Bridge
Ph: +353 1 804 9100
www.arlington.ie
Awarded Irelands Best Value Hotel 2010
190 bedrooms
21 meetings rooms
Amazing Wedding packages available
Newlands Cross, Dublin 22. Tel: 01 403 3300
Email: stay@louisfitzgeraldhotel.com
www.louisfitzgeraldhotel.com
JOELS
RESTAURANT
Naas Rd, Dublin 22
Tel: 01 4592968
Modern and bright, Joels is one of Dublins livliest dining venues, with an
extensive menu catering for almost every taste.
AN POITIN
STIL
Rathcoole, Co. Dublin
Tel: 01 4589244
Award winning thatched Restaurant & Bar with its own Stil and quirky
museum. An Poitin Stil is one of Irelands Most Famous Pubs.
GRAND CENTRAL
10/11 OConnell St, Dublin 1
Tel: 01 8728658
KEHOES
9 South Anne, Dublin 2
Tel: 01 6778312
THE STAGS HEAD
1 Dame Court, Dublin 1
Tel: 01 6793687
THE QUAYS
11-12 Temple Bar, Dublin 1
Tel: 01 6713922
THE BAGGOT INN
Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2
Tel: 01 6618758
THE QUAYS
Quay Street, Galway
Tel: 091 568347
City Centre Heritage Pubs
Dublin & Galway
www.louisfitzgerald.com
A warm welcome awaits you from all the staff at the Louis Fitzgerald Group
Dating back to the 19th century, it was partly
destroyed in the 1916 rising. Today you can
still enjoy some of the original features, high
dome ceilings and hand crafted stone, but now
complimented with plush leather seats and
dramatic chandeliers. Superb food served daily.
Situated off Dublins premier shopping street,
Grafton Street. This is one of the finest, if not
the finest, Victorian pub in Dublin. Although it
is unchanged since 19th century, this is not a
museum, it is a buzzing vibrant pub with a
fantastic atmosphere and a special place in the
heart of Dubliners. This is a must see.
Established in the 1700s, it was last renovated
in 1895 and was the first pub in Dublin to
change from gas lighting to electricity. A
favourite haunt for those in the literary world
including Joyce and Kavanagh over the years.
Today it still has the authentic feel of a real
Dublin pub.
The Quays, Temple Bar situated in the heart of
Temple Bar is one of Dublins liveliest pubs with
a great mix of locals and tourists. Live Irish
Traditional Music everyday makes the pub a
magnet for those of us looking for a bit of craic
and with a restaurant on the first floor.
The Baggot Inn offer you the original and
unique Pour your own Pint experience.
Located in the hub of Dublins business centre,
we serve a wide variety of hot and tasty food.
First Failte Ireland Approved Dublin Pub check
out the Baggot inn FREE APP.
The Quays, situated in the heart of Galway city
and established in the 1600s, it has kept the
charm which gained it an international
reputation for its traditional Irish music sessions.
Traditional Irish fare, the best of music and the
'craic' are the order of the day.
THE LOUIS FITZGERALD
HOTEL

Traditional Irish hospitality awaits you in the

Arlington Hotels. Boasting 200 Bedrooms in the
Heart of the City. Experience the true Dublin
and stay with us in these Iconic Locations.
NEW YORK
66 | SEPTEMBER 2012
This page, Christian Stathis relaxes
outside New Yorks famous Balthazar
bistro, a lunchtime legend; opposite
page, left, catering for all occasions
at Katzs deli; right, taking in Liberty
on the East River Ferry.
SEPTEMBER 2012 | 67
THE INSIDERS GUIDE
Howth ex-pat Philip Fox-Mills, executive producer
with Ridley Scott Associates, shares his favourite
New York City haunts.
YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES TO EAT? Miss
Lilys/Melvins Juice Box (132 West Houston
Street at Sullivan Street; misslilysnyc.com) is
a newish Jamaican place, with great food and
vibe; Momofukus there a few of them in
the east village and now one in midtown, M
Pche (15 West 56th Street, +1 212 757 5878;
momofuku.com) is best.
YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES FOR A
DRINK? Little Branch a speakeasy on
7th Street near Barrow; any of the old Ivy
League Clubs in Midtown very Catcher
in the Rye with opulent tones, all you need
is to know a member. Harry Cipriani (781
Fifth Avenue at 59th Street; +1 212 753 5566;
cipriani.com) serves proper Martinis and has
very friendly bar sta just dont say you
know me ...
BEST PLACE FOR PRESENTS? Tianys
(Fifth Avenue and 57th Street; tiany.com),
of course! Or else Barneys (660 Madison
Avenue; barneys.com).
BEST PLACE FOR KIDS? Roosevelt bubble
car; the High Line (thehighline.org) and
the New York Hall of Science in Queens
(47-01 111th Street in Flushing Meadows). Or
Central Park is the backyard for kids in the
city any time of year.
SECRET ESCAPE IN THE CITY? Weirdly,
ChinaTown can be very quiet in parts once
you know it. Then Battery Park City on
the water or leave the city ... halfway across
Brooklyn Bridge on o-peak hours or
Coney Island o season.
NOT TO BE MISSED? The High Line,
Times Square and walking down or up 5th
Avenue are all quintessential NYC, and the
Staten Island Ferry and back.
BEST COFFEE? Colombe (270 Lafayette
Street; lacolombe.com), beside my oce in
Soho and then, further down, Saturdays Surf
NYC (31 Crosby Street; saturdaysnyc.com).
BEST HOTEL FOR ROMANCE?
Book a room high up in The Four
Seasons (fourseasons.com/newyork) or
downtown at The Greenwich in Tribeca
(thegreenwichhotel.com) they both
have stellar restaurants too. The St Regis
(stregisnewyork.com) is also good.
of its signature
cocktails from
a bygone era.
Formerly the
luxurious ofce of
1920s mogul John
W Campbell, its
interior is stunning.
Grand Central
Station, lit up at
night in all its Art
Deco splendour, is
also a must-see. And for the perfect
follow-through with food, head to
Maze by Gordon Ramsay at Te
London (151 West 54th Street;
+1 212 468 8889), where the menu
is every bit as elegant and classy as
the David Collins interior.
Having ticked of your list of
must-buys, the fun can really begin
downtown as you explore the warren
of streets around Soho and Nolita.
If its indie fashion labels youre after
this is your patch. Start at Greene
Street (West Houston Street) and let
your inner magpie loose in Kisan
(125 Greene Street; kisanstore.com)
where youll fnd a hand-picked
selection of beautiful things to
include fashion, jewellery,
homeware, stationery, books and
childrens wear. Down the road, pop
into Kirna Zabte (96 Greene
Street; kirnazabete.com) for a
high-fashion fx at Philip Lim,
Alexander Wang, Erdem, Takoon,
etc. For lunch, head over to
Balthazar (80 Spring Street, +1 212
965 1414; balthazarny.com) this
bustling bistro is a lunchtime-legend
for very good reason. Also in this
area youll fnd the MoMA Design
Store (81 Spring Street; momastore.
org) and Kiosk (95 Spring Street;
kioskkiosk.com) both brilliant for
imaginative homeware and gifts.
Heading a little further east
into Nolita, make a bee-line for
Elizabeth Street where youll fnd
it hard to resist the butter-soft bags
at Sample, the designer fnds at
Tory Burch and the bespoke scents
at Atelier Cologne, among others.
An essential pitstop here is Tacombi
(267 Elizabeth Street; tacombi.com)
for super-fresh, zingy Mexican fare
served out of a vintage Combi van
(try the crispy Ensenada fsh tacos
washed down with a watermelon
juice). Another must-visit in this
hood is Katzs deli (205 East Houston
Street; katzsdelicatessen.com), a Jewish
institution since 1888. Te secret dry
cure pickling formula they use on
their pastrami takes a full month to be
ready to serve. But make sure to leave
room for dinner at DBGB Kitchen
(299 Bowery, +1 212 933 5300) where
Michelin-star chef Daniel Boulud
blends French bistro and American
tavern to create a buzzy Bowery great.
It ofers 70 craft beers by the bottle
NEWYORK
68 | SEPTEMBER 2012
Aer Lingus ies from
Dublin to NewYork daily,
and from Shannon to New
York, Mon, Wed and Fri.
and 14 varieties of gourmet sausage
(paying homage to chef Bouluds
Lyonnaise roots) and a Piggie burger
(6oz beef burger, housemade BBQ
pulled pork and jalapeno mayo) that
is nothing short of the best burger
in town.
For something diferent,
head out of Manhattan
to the area everyones
currently talking
about
Brooklyn. Give
the subway a
skip and jump
on the East
River Ferry
from Midtown
instead. If you
get on at East
34th Street, the trip
takes about 20 minutes
and has breathtaking views
of the Manhattan cityscape. It is
also a reminder that this great city
remains a busy industrial port at
heart. Jump of at Brooklyn Bridge
Park and make sure to take your
time exploring this green space
overlooking the river and Manhattan
beyond. For lunch, head to Dekalb
Market (138 Willoughby Street
at Flatbush Avenue; dekalbmarket.
com) where youll fnd a collection
of salvaged shipping containers
housing a gourmet food market,
urban farm and esoteric
fashion emporium.
For shopping,
head to Atlantic
Avenue (cross
street: Smith
Street) where
youll fnd a
selection of
inspired stores
such as Dry
Goods (362
Atlantic Avenue;
drygoodsny.com)
for homeware, pets,
clothes and gifts; Kaight
(382 Atlantic Avenue; kaightshop.com)
for ethically sourced womenswear,
featuring lots of local designers and
divine dcor from Rico (384 Atlantic
Avenue; shoprico.com). Food-lovers
shouldnt miss Sahadis (187 Atlantic
WEBPREP
Whether youre heading
to NYC to shop, dine or catch
a show, visit nycgo.com to create
your own bespoke itinerary and nd
out about all best new places in town.
An essential bit of pre-trip prep
particularly if youre travelling with
kids or have any other special
requirements.
Top, the unique
Mexican eatery,
Tacombi, at
Fonda NoLita;
above, Dekalb
Market, Brooklyn,
for eclectic
nds housed in
a collection of
salvaged shipping
containers.
Avenue; sahadis.com), a Middle
Eastern emporium where an entire
room is dedicated to olives; Mr
Sahadi clearly is to the spice world
what Mr Wonka is to chocolate.
If youre still brimful of energy,
walk the High Line park the old
freight line that runs nine metres
above Manhattan catch Once on
Broadway, or see the new Freedom
Tower being built at the World
Trade Center. Or mark them down
for your next visit.
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fuerteventura
70 | september 2012
SurfS up...
Fuerteventura isnt just a sun holiday hotspot.
Its a surfers paradise, as Pl Conghaile discovers.
Photographs by Marcos de Rada.
FUERTEVENTURA
72 | SEPTEMBER 2012
T
his feels good. Tis is
clicking. Crouching
low on the board,
cutting through
white water, Im
heading straight
for the beach,
maintaining my
position. Creased clifs rise up over
the soft golden sands in front of me.
And there isnt a soul in sight.
Im surfng the northwest coast
of Fuerteventura. Seconds later, of
course, Im falling from my board,
tumbling head over heels into the
Great Atlantic Washing Machine.
But no matter. Ive caught a nifty
wave and thats what counts. When I
surface, Richie Moore is holding two
thumbs up.
Moore, the sun-bronzed owner
of Rip Curl Surf School, is my
instructor for a week. Im here
courtesy of Surfholidays.com,
an Irish company packaging
accommodation and surfng lessons
around Europe. For sometime
surfers like me, this is a no-brainer.
Not only are you getting good
lessons, but you can leave the
meteorology to a maverick and get
the inside track on the best breaks,
for one price. Simple until you
stand up on the surfboard, that is.
I few into Fuerteventura with
my wife and our two kids Rosa
(six) and Sam (two) on a Saturday.
After taking a day to settle into our
accommodation (Las Marismas
in Corralejo), we arrange my frst
lesson for Monday the idea being
for me to get a run at it on my own,
before the kids would join in for a
fun family lesson later in the week.
Richie picks me up in his trusty
VW van. Heading west with four
other surfers in tow, I cant get over
how spectacularly arid Fuerteventura
Above, acres of
empty, sandy
beaches on
Fuerteventura
make it the
perfect spot for
surfers, both
learners and pros.
Right, newbie
surfer Pl
Conghaile and
two-year-old
Sam.
33 EXCHEQUER STREET, DUBLIN 2
+3531 6707238
WWW.THEGREENHEN.COM
OPEN 7 DAYS
2 COURSE LUNCH 17.00
3 COURSE LUNCH 19.00
EARLY BIRD MENU
2 COURSES 19.50
3 COURSES 22.00
A LA CARTE MENU
EXTENSIVE WINE LIST
GREAT COCKTAILS
G H
1 minute walk from Grafton Street
Double award-winning Cocktail bar, with multiple award-winning Bartenders
Cocktail master classes available all week
Gourmet food served all day 11am - 8.30pm Mon- Sat, 10am - 7.30pm Sunday
Breakfast served from 10am 3pm Saturday and Sunday
Heated outside terrace with seating for 70 people
BBQ every Friday and Saturday evening
Available for private corporate parties and launches.
Bar serving until 3am Friday and Saturdays with great Djs every weekend
Now taking Christmas bookings
Birthdays, engagements, sport and social get togethers, corporate
All parties catered for, no party to big.
call us on 01 475 8504 for reservations or email: info@harrysonthegreen. ie
A bit of NYC escapism
in the heart of
Dublin City Centre.
South King Street, Dublin 2
fuerteventura
74 | september 2012
WHere tO eat In
COrraLeJO
Corralejo is no Costa del Sol,
but its old harbour serves up an
evocative reminder of what the
former fishing village must have
looked like before modern tourism.
La Marquesina (Calle El Muelle
Chico, +34 928 535 435) is a mid-
range seafood restaurant perched
on the harbour wall, with fresh
fish displayed on ice before being
whisked away to the grill. Snapper,
crab croquettes and Canarian
potatoes were our highlights, eaten
as the kids played on the sand and
a pink moon rose over the boats.
Theres no shortage of goats
on the island, so perhaps its not
surprising to find a restaurant
named after one, either. Pincha
Cabra (Milagrosa 17, Plaza
Calero, +34 928 866 449) is the
kind of place you stumble upon
rather than read about in a reps
brochure, and the air of discovery
continues with the lengthy list of
tapas including papas arrugadas
(wrinkled potatoes), calamari,
peppercorn beef and a fresh melon
and artichoke salad. No shortage of
goats cheese, either.
Youll get good steak at Gregorio
el Pescador (Calle de la Iglesia 11,
+34 928 866 227) near Corralejos
old harbour, but its not for his
beef that Gregorio is known
as El Pescador. Big portions
are the order of the day here,
with calamari, fish croquettes,
langoustines and sardines amongst
the highlights of a menu heavily
skewed towards seafood. Its not
cheap by Corralejo standards, but
kids are welcome, and afterwards,
you can walk off those garlic
prawns with a post-prandial by
the beach.
is. Its like Mordor meets the Med;
volcanic mountains punching up
out of the earth with the odd tuft
of cactus or aloe-vera as a garnish.
Its like a flm negative of Ireland:
a scorched, forbidding place to
everything but chipmunks and
goats. Im not at all surprised its just
100km from Punta de la Entallada
to Morocco.
But then we hit the beaches.
Steering of the sealed road near El
Cotillo, we rattle along a dirt track
towards the coast and bam! an
azure ocean sparkles like a galaxy.
Little fufy clouds hover above big
green waves, crashing down some
25 metres ofshore. Piling out of the
van, we grab our boards and make
our way down. Tere is nobody else
around.
Tis is the draw of Fuerteventura.
Less developed than other Canary
Islands, yet boasting more sandy
Above, a graphic
reminder of the
importance of
surfng to this
island paradise.
ROMERADELAPEA... Every year, a street festival celebratingthe islands patron,
Our Lady of the Rock, takes place onthe thirdSaturday of September (this years
falls onSeptember 20). The processionpays homage, while residents andvisitors
enjoy a lively celebrationinvolvingfood, music andtraditional dancing.
Pincha Cabra
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Sectors and services include
FUERTEVENTURA
76 | SEPTEMBER 2012
beaches and 3,000 hours of sunshine
a year, it feels like freedom. Que
forte aventure! , Frenchman Jean
de Bethencourt is said to have
exclaimed after invading in 1402.
After limbering up, we hit the
waves. Richie watches from the
shoreline, pulling us in now and
then to give us tips on technique.
Central to his approach is the
second of sanity that moment
when the wave catches you and
you push your shoulders forward,
locking your arms and owning
the board before popping-up
into a standing position. Its easy
in theory ... but not so much in
feisty conditions stirred up by
Fuerteventuras notorious winds.
Mother Nature hasnt done with
you yet, he shouts, as I emerge from
the froth, forgetting to secure my
board, and the next wave crashes
down.
All kinds of surfers come to
Fuerteventura, relishing the frontier-
like adventure of its undeveloped
coastline. Other Canary Islands may
1
BAKU WATERPARK ... You
cant miss it. Perched above
Corralejo, slides sprawling
around it like elongated Wine
Gums, sooner or later parents
have to give in. Id recommend
sooner. Lets do it again! is
the catchphrase of the day,
with Rosa hitting the shorter
slides, Sam pottering around
the toddlers play park, and
Dad escaping to shoot down
the Kamikaze Run. Sure, its
expensive (adult tickets cost
from 25), the food is terrible
and youll fry like an egg if
you forget the sunscreen, but
queues were short and we had
an absolute ball.
2
ISLA DE LOBOS ... In
summertime, boats leave
Corralejo hourly between
10am and 4pm, taking
passengers to the volcanic Isla
de Lobos 15 minutes oshore.
Take a glass-bottomed boat if
you fancy a leisurely cruise and
a look at the sh, or hop o to
explore the rocky lump at your
own pace. Unsurfaced paths
lead to hidden beaches and
lagoons (I just about managed
with the buggy) and the
snorkelling is amongst the best
on Fuerteventura. The seals
that gave the island its name
are in short supply but theres
a surprising variety of bird life.
3
LANZAROTE They
may be marketed as
completely dierent holiday
destinations but Lanzarote
and Fuerteventura lie just
twelve minutes apart by fast
ferry. Departing Corralejo
(check fredolsen.es for times
and prices on the Bocayna
Express to Playa Blanca), its
possible to spend a day on the
neighbouring island, exploring
white beaches, black volcanic
landscapes and even taking
a trip to the active volcano
Timanfaya, before catching
a boat back to Fuerteventura
that evening. Two Canaries for
the price of one, then.
4
EL COTILLO Curious
as to what Corralejo might
have looked like 30 years
ago? Then take the short
drive across Fuerteventura to
El Cotillo. The place seems
in a time warp, especially
around the old harbour
where a cluster of restaurants
overlooks a stony beach. After
an ice cream or cerveza, check
out the Clean Ocean Project
(cleanoceanproject.org). Its
a tiny shop selling jewellery,
T-shirts and other trinkets
made with otsam and jetsam
recovered by a group that
cleans beaches on the island.
Its aim? To preserve this
unique playground.
5
LA OLIVA TO
BETANCURIA ... Think of
holiday islands, and palm trees
and tropical vegetation often
spring to mind. By contrast,
Fuerteventuras interior is
strikingly harsh and barren. As
such, driving through historic
towns such as Pajar and the
old capital of Betancuria
makes for a fascinating daytrip,
not so much for the towns, but
the stunning landscape around
them. The volcanic landscape
is separated by just 100km
from the African coast at
Morocco. Awesome.
TAKE FIVE ... DAY TRIPS
El Cotillo
september 2012 | 77
ofer bigger waves or better breaks
(think of La Santa in Lanzarote)
but none matches the variety of
breaks, and the number of
sandy beaches youll fnd
here. As a result theres
something for everyone
from glorifed beginners
like myself to improvers
and advanced surfers too.
Youre looking for
the sweet spot, Richie
tells me. Where is it? I
dont know. Its diferent for
everybody. But when you fnd
it, youll know. Ten youll have it
forever.
Hes encouraging too. Tere are
good tips on paddling (go early,
watch the wave, use long, slow
strokes), and when I do manage to
pop-up, hold a decent posture and
crouch on the board, hes generous
with the whoops of encouragement.
He even uses the word ninja ...
After the lesson, we ride back
towards Corralejo, with Richies
mate showing pictures on his iPad.
Te thing I like about surfng
is that you dont really have a
sense of time, says one of my
fellow surfers, an English
woman in her twenties.
You dont say, lets wind
up in fve minutes. You
say, lets wind up after a
couple more waves. You
treat time very diferently.
Summer is the best
time to learn the basics in
the Canaries, Richie says. If
youre looking for bigger swells, hit
the winter sun. Its the same as in
Ireland. When the weather starts
getting nasty up there, the big swells
come in. Were surfng the same stuf
down here as you are on the west
coast except with sunshine, shorts
and T-shirts.
Over the next few lessons,
I gradually start to see an
improvement. Nothing dramatic,
green
desert
Fuerteventura was declared
an ofcial biosphere reserve,
by UNESCO in 2009. This means
that the island is recognised in its
eforts to promote sustainable
development based on local
community eforts and
sound science.
Opposite
page, Playa de
la Escalera.
Above, volcanic
mountains,
arid desert and
the occasional
palm tree the
landscape of
Fuerteventura is
hot, dry and very
beautiful.
no Eureka moment, and lots of
stif limbs and wipe-outs but
there is a pay-of. Te second of
sanity becomes a habit, freeing me
to concentrate on the pop-up, the
crouching position, the action on
the board. I learn to loosen the back
knee, look for the tension in my
front thigh. I start catching more
waves and riding them for longer.
Typical is our third lesson, on
an of-radar beach near Tindaya.
Scrambling through bushes and
black lumps of basalt with our
boards, we fop into the surf, and
spend the best part of an hour
battling really punishing wind and
white water. Its dispiriting and Im
knackered, but Richie keeps things
oiled, pumping out the enthusiasm
and encouragement.
Yes, you fell of. But your paddle
was great, you held for that second of
sanity, and you popped-up well. You
win some, you lose some. Next time,
keep the chin up.
fuerteventura
78 | september 2012
SEPTEMBER 2012 | 79
THREE BEST BEACHES
1
GRANDE PLAYA Youve
seen the travel magazine
covers. Now see one in real
life. Fuerteventura is famous
for Las Dunas National Park,
a 15km stretch of undulating
sand south of Corralejo and the
point where its dunes hit the sea
forms a gloriously uninterrupted
beach. Soft white sands, an
ocean that flits from aquamarine
to azure, and views over Isla de
Lobos and Lanzarote complete
the idyllic setting. You can
take kite-surfing lessons at the
school by Corralejo, too.
2
PLAYAEL MARRAJO
Sitting just behind
the stripy lighthouse
outside El Cotillo, this beach
is cut off from the ocean by
rocks and sandbars, creating
lovely lagoons for little people.
Picking through the rock pools,
spotting flickering fish and snails
or hiding out in the circular
shelters people have built from
the islands black basalt, is a
lovely way to while away the
afternoon.
3
LACONCHA You
want off-the-beaten-
track? Youll find it
on this tiny cove carved into
the rocky outcrop of Isla de
Lobos. In 1405, Lobos served
as supply base for Jean de
Bethencourts conquest of
Fuerteventura. Some 600 years
later, a 15-minute boat ride
from Corralejo delivers you
to a volcanic nature reserve
completely devoid of traffic.
La Concha is a sheltered option
for snorkelling and swimming.
Bring food, drink and plenty
of shade.
By lunchtime, things are looking
up. Te tide has come in. Te
waves have changed. Teres more
time between sets; the big ones are
breaking closer to shore and theres
enough time to gather thoughts
before getting up on the board. After
crashing out a gazillion times, its
amazing how one good wave can
stoke you all over again.
Wahoo! Tat was efortless! It
was like you were waiting for a bus!
I break on the beach for an
orange. Cutting it with my penknife,
zapping the salty taste of the sea with
its fresh juicy fesh, its the best bit of
fruit Ive ever tasted.
As the week goes on, the
expeditions become a morning
ritual. Richies dog, Patch, sits
between the front seats. Richie plays
tunes of his iPhone. We like this
one! Its our surf song! our English
friend cheers, as Manu Chao
sparks to life. I love the
sense of this happy
van, surfboards
piled high on the
roof, motoring
through a Martian
landscape in
search of surf.
By Friday, Im
ready to bring
the kids along.
Following behind
the VW in our rental
car, we wind through the
mountains to the west coast. At
another deserted beach, Rosa gets
LIFE
AQUATIC
As well as being a surfers
paradise, the island also attracts
marine wildlife enthusiasts and
game sherman. Sea fauna, such
as dolphins, marlin, whales and
turtles also make for a much-
loved destination for scuba
divers and sailors.
Opposite page,
Pl and young
wannabe surfer
Sam head to the
beach in search
of waves. Above,
Rosa is a natural
lesson one, and
shes up and at
em. Left, some
last-minute tips as
Richie and Pl hit
the surf.
Playa de la Concha
FUERTEVENTURA
80 | SEPTEMBER 2012
GETTING THERE
Aer Lingus ies from
Dublin direct to
Fuerteventura, Tues and
Sat; from Dublin to Lanzarote,
four times weekly, from Cork to
Lanzarote, three times weekly,
and from Belfast to Lanzarote,
four times weekly. For all other
Aer Lingus ights to the Canary
Islands, aerlingus.com.
Hertz car rental Cara would like
to thank Hertz for their
assistance. For best car rental
deals, visit aerlingus.com and click
on the Hertz icon. Or call
reservations from Ireland,
01 813 3844.
Surfholidays.com is an Irish-
owned company specialising in
European surf holidays in
Fuerteventura, Pl took surf
lessons with Rip Curl Surf School
and stayed at Las Marismas in
Corralejo. A seven-night stay in
Las Marismas for a family of four,
including three days of surf
lessons and return airport
transfers, starts from 267pp
from October to December
(lasmarismascorralejo.com).
For more on Fuerteventura,
including places to stay, see
visitfuerteventura.es.
her frst lesson, pulling on a
yellow rash vest and taking
a souvenir-sized board into
the shallows. She starts lying
down, with Richie holding
her until a wave comes, and
then releasing her to ride with
it. Shes a natural. Before we
know it, shes clambering to
her knees. Richie paints an X
on the middle of the board with
a stub of wax. She manages to
stand on it.
Kids are the easiest lesson,
he says. You just say stand up,
and they go: okay.
Determined not to be outdone
by my six-year-old, I spend our last
morning trying to focus on all Ive
learned. By avoiding the big waves
and sticking with the medium
ones (as Richie charitably calls
them), I can take the time to correct
my feet, play with my posture and
move my body around. It feels good,
like all the time in the Washing
Machine has paid of.
Fuerteventura is exactly what I
needed. As a working father living
on Irelands east coast, Ill never
realistically get to surf more than a
Top, the candy-
striped lighthouse
near El Cotillo.
Above, why
stop at surng?
Kitesurng lessons
are also on oer.
couple of times a year. But getting
out several times in the same week,
in the sunshine, on windswept
beaches, in the company of an
instructor who knows his technique
and his turf, has given me a big
boost. And all whilst hitting sandy
beaches in the afternoon with the
kids and eating seafood by the port
in the evening ...
By the time it comes to leave, Im
no longer bemused by the surf shops
in every sleepy, slow-motion village
on Fuerteventura. Im smiling like
someone let in on a secret.
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copenhagen
82 | september 2012
GREAT DANE
With accolades for the worlds best design, best metro, best
cycling and best restaurant, whats not to like in Copenhagen?
Writer and photographer Roger Norumexplores Denmarks
capital city and discovers why it has also been rated best
in the world for quality of life.
september 2012 | 83
F
irst it was the Danes
themselves, rated
several years ago by a
group of sociologists to
be the happiest people
on the planet. Ten in
2008, their capital city
was rated by Monocle
magazine as the best in the world for
quality of life, followed by accolades
for the worlds best design, best metro
and best cycling. Two years later,
local restaurant-in-the-stars Noma
was named best in the world by 800
chefs and consummate foodies a
feat it has repeated every year since.
I slip out of my hotel early one
morning and pick up a hired cycle to
join local residents in their city-wide,
two-wheeled commute. Cycling is
a national sport in Denmark, and
bikes are hands down the best way
to get around. Spread across a series
of canals and lakes, Copenhagen is
laid out in a series of easily navigable
neighbourhoods Vesterbro,
Nrrebro and sterport being
among the best known, with
well-laid tarmac cycle paths nearly
everywhere. Architecturally, the city
runs the gamut from Gothic to ultra-
modern, from leafy Frederiksberg
and the palatial royal quarter of
Frederiksstaden to the imposing
enclave of Christianshavn,
surrounded by canals. At the heart of
it all sits Indre By, a maze of lively,
pedestrianised streets and squares.
Te frst activity on my list:
retail therapy. I ride along the
cobbled streets of Kbmagergade
and Kompagnistrde in Indre
By, great spots for picking up sleek
Scandinavian housewares, modern
design objets and home furnishings
at small, independent design shops.
It was strikingly original pieces of
furniture such as Arne Jacobsens
cradle-like Egg Chair that frst
got Scandinavian design noticed,
and from the early 1950s onwards,
uncomplicated, understated works
from the regions designers became
synonymous with outstanding
craftsmanship, quality and
innovative style. North of Indre By,
the Norrebro district is a good bet
for clothing; try the chic shops on
Elmegade, where designers are often
COPENHAGEN
84 | SEPTEMBER 2012
SPLURGE One of the capitals
luxury hotel darlings is the
Axel Hotel Guldsmeden
(Helgolandsgade 11, +45 3331 3266;
hotelguldsmeden.com), which
features 129 primped, Balinese-style
rooms decked out with four-poster
beds, bathtubs and balconies. The
Guldsmeden is just two blocks from
the central train station, but youd
never know it once youre tucked up
inside. Rooms from DKK1195 (160).
MIDPRICE A bit further east is
Nyhavn 71 (Nyhavn 71, +45 3343
6200; 71nyhavnhotel.com), a sedate,
stylish hotel set within a grand,
19th-century brick warehouse and
overlooking Copenhagens picture-
postcard harbour, lined with buzzing
restaurants. The 100-plus smallish
rooms are charming, with plenty
of exposed wooden beams, and
the hotels recently refurbished
gourmet restaurant is gaining quite
a reputation these days. Rooms
from DKK1045 (140).
BUDGET In a leafy street just
beyond lively Vesterbrogade,
the Hotel Sct. Thomas
(Frederiksberg All 7, +45 3321
6464; hotelsctthomas.dk) is a
gem of aordable three-star
accommodation that is close to
hip Vrnedamsvej and a short
walk from glorious Frederiksberg
Gardens. Its a bit of a trek from
the city centre, but the friendly
owners and very reasonable rates
more than compensate. Rooms from
DKK745 (100).
on hand to tailor the clothing on
the racks to ft you perfectly (a tip:
pick up something from artist-of-all-
trades Henrik Vibskovs boutique
on Krystalgade and its likely to be
a one-of-a-kind). As the number of
bags hanging from my handlebars
grows, I spend the afternoon
coasting over bridges spanning quiet
canals, gazing up at hulking Gothic
churches and grazing at ultra-
modern design shops.
If the weathers warm, theres
nothing better than some time
spent at a local beach. You could
be forgiven for not intuitively
associating sunny beaches with
anything Nordic, but Denmarks
7,300km of white, sandy coastline
ofers some of the most unexpectedly
wonderful places to kick of your fip
fops and while away an afternoon.
During the summer months, locals
head to Copencabana, an artifcial
beach in the city harbour with two
outdoor pools and diving boards,
but I hop on the fast train for the
Zealand coast to take in the sandy
swathes of upscale Tisvildeleje.
Here, family-friendly sandbars and
shallows, hikeable forests and a
clutch of great restaurants and cafs
look out to the Baltics Kattegat Bay.
Working behind a jet-black,
exposed-beam dining room in
an 18th-century warehouse in
Christianshavn, the provocative
head chef at Noma (Strandgade 93,
+45 3296 3297; noma.dk), Ren
Redzepi, frst made waves a decade
ago with his strict
dogma of seemingly
simple Nordic
dishes exclusively
put together from
seasonal, locally-
sourced ingredients.
Te foodie world
entered something
of a state of shock
when Noma was
named Worlds Best
Restaurant, but it
meant the world
began to take notice
of Danish cuisine. Te
restaurants VIP status
now draws celebrities
and the beautiful people but,
STAY AT ...
Axel Hotel Guldsmeden
Above, wheel
pleasure bikes
are the best way
to get around
Copenhagen;
below, head chef
at Noma, Ren
Redzepi.
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SEPTEMBER 2012 | 85
1
CANAL TOUR The multilingual
DFDS Tours (+45 3296 3000;
canaltours.com) ferry visitors along
Copenhagens centuries-old canals,
oering a fascinating insight into
important events and sights tied to
Denmarks history. They depart up
to four times an hour and can pick
up and drop o passengers at 14
dierent points of interest.
2
HISTORY OF DESIGN This
Henning Larsen-designed, glass-
fronted Danish Design Centre
(HC Andersens Boulevard 27, +45
3369 3369; ddc.dk) has fascinating
temporary exhibitions and a
small permanent display that
focus on local design innovations
(think Zippo lighters, Wonderbras
and early computers). But the real
reason to come is the gift shop,
which stocks a brilliant selection of
design books, as well as drawers full
of designer gadgets.
3
COPENHAGEN CULTURAL
NIGHT Though it comes just
one night a year the second Friday
in October the capitals Cultural
Night (+45 3315 1010; kulturnatten.
dk) is when hundreds of venues
all over the capital churches,
galleries, libraries, schools and
exhibition halls open up their
doors for musical shows, poetry
readings, art exhibitions and
other events.
4
RETRO CHIC SHOPPING
Retro Villa (Badstuestrde 17,
+45 3315 4058; retrovilla.dk) holds
Scandinavias largest selection of
original vintage wallpaper, amazing
patchwork bedspreads and pillows,
most gleaned from ea markets
all around the country. It also
sells furniture items, clothing, and
ceramics from local designers such as
Casalinga, P Bjrg and Finnsdotir.
5
TIVOLI A true national
treasure, the fairytale theme
park of Tivoli (Vesterbrogade 3,
+45 3315 1001; tivoli.dk) features
beautifully landscaped gardens,
fairground stalls, bandstands,
theatres and plenty of amusement
park rides. A must-visit attraction.
Closes around midnight even later
on weekends.
5 THINGS TO DO ...
Tivoli
BIKEFORLIFE... Witha populationof just 5.5million, Denmarkis
home to4.2millionbicycles but only 1.2millioncars. Rent one at
Kbenhavns Cykelbrs (Gothesgade 157, +4533140717; cykelborsen.dk
Right, the
Copenhagen
Opera House
and, below,
contemporary
furniture design
store, HAY, on
Pilestrde.
thankfully, the Danish capital boasts
a total of 14 Michelin stars, making
great eating still within reach.
I stop in at rustic-urban eatery
Aamanns (ster Farimagsgade 12,
+45 3555 3310; aamanns.dk), a
restaurant that has reworked the
traditional smrrebrod (open rye
bread sandwich) by doing away with
thick, fatty meats and introducing
fresh herbs and vegetables.
Everything here is seasonal and
sourced locally from Danish
farmers, with exclusively free-range
meat, and herring a local favourite
ingredient that has been caught,
salted, dried and smoked here for
centuries. I wash mine down
with a shot of ice-cold
caraway schnapps.
Copenhagens
extensive green
spaces make it an
excellent place
for afternoon
picnics, too. I
pedal out one
afternoon to
Vrnedamsvej
near Vesterbro, one
of the citys coolest
STREET
LORE
Fires eectively destroyed
Copenhagen in the 18th century.
The city centre now consists of
wide streets of neoclassical brick
and stone buildings, with the
corners clipped so that re
trucks could careen
around them.
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copenhagen
86 | september 2012
aer Lingus fies from
Dublin to copenhagen
daily, from October 28.
eaT aT ...
SpLURge Executive chef
Lasse Askov serves a great
mix of innovative modern
European cooking at Kokkeriet
(Kronprinsessegade 64, +45
3315 2777; kokkeriet.dk), his
Michelin-starred treasure in
the cosy Nyboder district. The
menu includes some perennial
chefs specialties pikeperch
with caulifower and Brussels
sprouts, say, or lemon mousse with
meringue plus other goodies such
as scallops with squid, oatmeal
and trufe. For a restaurant
of this quality, its surprisingly
unpretentious, so prices tend to be
lower than in Copenhagens other
Michelin-starred restaurants.
MIDpRIce With a spacious and
bright interior and foor-to-ceiling
windows that look out to the water,
Toldboden (Nordre Toldbod 24 ,
+45 3393 0760; restaurantjulian.
com) is great for a casual indoor or
outdoor meal. You get all the usual
suspects here, plus vegetable pie,
spareribs, traditional Danish liver
pat, fsh cakes, freshly baked
bread and homemade jam.
BUDgeT One Vesterbro
institution that will never go
out of style is Bang & Jensen
(Istedgade 130, +45 3325 5318;
blog.bangogjensen.dk), a former
pharmacy-turned-hip-caf with
high stucco ceilings, a mahogany
counter and plenty of hipster
swagger. The casual bistro
fare, which includes chorizo
sandwiches, baba ganoush and
chilli con carne, draws local
musicians, artists and social
entrepreneurs throughout the day,
and tends to fll up before evening
concerts at the nearby club, Vega.
streets if youre a foodie. Here,
at specialty cheese shop Helges
Ost (Vrnedamsvej 9, +45 3324
4102; helgesost.dk), I fnd freshly-
baked Danish bread, along with
olives, sausages and cheese, and a
bottle of Saint-milion at Juuls
(Vrnedamsvej 15, +45 3331 1328;
juuls.dk) possibly the citys best wine
shop (it also sells some 350 diferent
whiskeys). I plonk myself down on
a patch of grass in the nearby lush,
open expanses of Frederiksberg
Gardens, right by the parks
atmospheric Chinese summerhouse.
Danish culture often centres
around family time, quiet nights
with friends, and enjoying the
Scandinavian great outdoors all
things that celebrate the typically
Danish tradition of hygge (cosiness).
But, given the opportunity, the
Danes can also let their hair down
when they want to. One great aspect
of this compact and sexy urban
retreat is that you can walk its streets
until very late and nearly always
fnd music lilting out of a bar or
caf. Come evening, I stop of at the
hole in the wall Bo-Bi Bar with its
refreshingly boho clientele of writers,
journalists, artists, students and
intellectuals. Just a few blocks away
is the newest, hippest spot to party
Vesterbros meatpacking district of
Kdbyen. I nestle into a seat at what
is still the standout place in this part
of town, Karriere Bar, a heralded,
experimental caf-restaurant-bar-
club-art space. Its packed to the
gills with Scandi hipsters and their
acolytes and the party goes on well
into the night.
In just a day or two of pedalling
my way around I was swiftly
reminded why Denmark ruled over
much of Scandinavia for several
centuries, and why its capital is still
the best place in Northern Europe
to let loose both during the day and
after hours. Whether its architecture,
food, cycling, nightlife or the great
outdoors, this invigorating, refned
and welcoming city comes alive like
no other. If there is something rotten
in the state of Denmark these days,
its defnitely not Copenhagen.
For more information on Copenhagen, see
visitcopenhagen.com or visitdenmark.com,
or pick up a copy of The Rough Guide to
Copenhagen; roughguides.com
Above, Denmark
is a nation of beer-
lovers, interesting
bars can be
found scattered
throughout
the city.
Kokkeriet
THIRSTY? ... Try one of Denmarks excellent microbrews. Brckhouse IPAis a strong
andhoppy pale ale; lfabrikenPorterhouse is a traditional stout witha light, very
moreishtaste andHancockDarkGambrinus is a heavy andinky lager.
p
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Follow in the footsteps of your heroes by taking a look behind the scenes at
Aviva Stadium... A tour of Aviva Stadium is a fantastic way to discover more
about the iconic home of Irish rugby and football.
This unmissable tour of Aviva Stadium will lead you into areas that are only accessible to
the players and ofcials on match days.
This privileged inside view of one of the worlds nest and most technologically advanced
stadiums is an experience you will never forget.
Book now, email tours@avivastadium.ie
or phone +353 (0)1 238 2300.
Stadium tours are open all year around, 7 days a week, excluding event day. Pre booking is advised.
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SEPTEMBER 2012 | 89
Enjoy the architectural elegance of a beautiful city and,
of course, sample its great wines. Conor Maguire shares
his insights into one of his favourite cities in France.
BORDEAUX
The BAR VINwine bar is
a great place to drop by. Light
atmosphere, with a wine list which
oers a selection of reds, dry and
sweet whites, ross, clarets and
sparkling wines. Suggestionof
the house? Chteau de Bonhoste
Prestige, 2010 2 per glass.
(baravin.bordeaux.com)
Bordeaux has a good network of
BICYCLE PATHS. The best way to
explore is with the help of an experienced
guide to show you the hidden corners
of the city, and maybe out as far as the
beautiful village of SAINT-MILION.
Tours from 25. (bordeaux-by-bike.com)
If you want to really treat
yourself, consider the excellent
Michelin-star restaurant, LE
PRESSOIR DARGENT, right
in the heart of Bordeaux, just
opposite the Opera House. The
Pressoir dArgent oers French art
de vivre to lovers of ne food and
those who are prepared to pay for
it! (pressoir-argent.com)
CHTEAUDE LALIGNE is just outside
Bordeaux (about 15km east). It was bought
by Belfast businessman Terry Cross in 2000
with the ambition to re-establish the Chteau
as a gem of the Bordeaux appellation. Great
location for weddings and conferences.
Also has self-catering gtes (cottages).
(chateaudelaligne.com)
For young folks, the one-hour CITY
TOUR in a little train with commentary
is fun and informative! Also, look for the
lovely CAROUSEL in front of the Opera
House. Further aeld, AQUALAND is 55
km from Bordeaux expect slides, dives
and energetic fun. (aqualand.fr)
If youd like to take your knowledge of wine a
little further, try the Connaisseur course at the
LCOLE DUVIN(Bordeaux Wine School) for 49
in which youll enjoy evaluating of wines from the
various Bordeaux vineyards. Maybe youll become
an Ambassadeur de lcole du Vin de Bordeaux?
(ecoleduvindebordeaux-campus.com)
An Insiders Guide to
BEINGTHERE
90 | SEPTEMBER 2012
OPHORUS WINE TOURS, of various
prices, oer a great introduction to
some of the best local wines. Private
tours include hotel pick up and drop o
contact them to arrange. Consider the
in-depth Mdoc Wine Tour half day,
260; (ophorus.com)
ADAREHOUSE, a bijouchambre dhte, close to the JardinPublic, is withineasy
walking distance of the centre. Owner Mary Pratt (fromLimerick) is a mine of
informationonthe city's attractions. Rooms from105. (en.bordeaux-bnb.com)
Bordeaux has many antique
and brocante/bric-a-brac dealers
and fairs. There is always the
possibility of nding something
special. Explore these locations
LE PASSAGE ST MICHEL
(aupassage.fr), also the RUE
BOUFFARD and the RUE NOTRE
DAME (shops open every day
except Sunday), see, for example,
VILLAGE NOTRE-DAME.
(antiquitesbordeaux.com)
The best free attraction in Bordeaux, by
night or by day, is its glorious architecture. Its
a UNESCOWORLDHERITAGE SITE with
347 listed buildings. Reecting the Flight of the
Earls, there are 14 chateaux, ten streets, two
wine communes and one public monument, with
Irish names! On hot days, take a refreshing stroll
through the ingenious MIROIR DEAU near the
Place de la Bource. (bordeaux-tourisme.com)
Like to win your own weight in a top Mdoc wine?
Then sign up for the crazy MDOCMARATHON
(marathondumedoc.com). The 2012 race is on
September 8.
RUE SAINTE-CATHERINE
is the main, and longest (1.2 km),
shopping street in Bordeaux,
with some very stylish shops
a haven for the truly committed
shopaholic. But remember,
shops open a very civilised
Monday to Saturday.
Owner of BORDEAUXSAVEURS
wine tours, Sylvie Cazes is also the
joint owner of Chteau Lynch-Bages,
general manager of Chteau Pichon
Longueville Comtesse de Lalande,
president of the Union des Grands
Crus de Bordeaux, and municipal
councillor for wine tourismand
development of the Bordeaux wine
sector so, youll be in very good
hands! (bordeauxsaveurs.com)
MORE ABOUT CONOR
Conor Maguire has lived or worked
in France for over 30 years, and loves
the quality of life there. He nds
that there is a real appreciation of
the long historical friendship and
collaboration between Ireland and
France. Conor recommends reading
The Irish Chateaux in Search of
the Descendents of the Wild Geese
by Renagh Holohan which recounts
the ight of Ireland's nobility and
their establishment in France. Their
chateaux are located throughout the
country, with a particular concentration
around Bordeaux. Conor lives near the
lovely town of Saumur on the banks of
the Loire River. (chateaudebeaulieu.fr)
Aer Lingus ies
from Dublin to
Bordeaux, Mon,
Wed, Thur, Fri
and Sun.
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John Farrington
Antiques
FINE ANTIQUE
AND CONTEMPORARY JEWELS
32 DRURY STREET, DUBLIN 2.
TEL: +353-1-6791899
Email: john@johnfarringtonantiques.com
www.johnfarringtonantiques.com
BEING THERE
92 | SEPTEMBER 2012
Venice
4
8
H
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IN
...
You will discover some of the best places in
this most beautiful and romantic city just by
wandering. Frances Power points you in the
right direction.
E
ven in high season, its easy to escape the press at St Marks
Square and wander the backstreets where washing is strung
like bunting, in search of old Venice. Do the Doges Palace, the
Basilica di San Marco and the Campanile (the view from the
top is spectacular) early morning, then ditch the map and your
itinerary and go walkabout. Youll fnd plenty to enjoy.
EAT AND DRINK AT
You dont need to spend
like a billionaire to nd good
food in Venice. Steer clear of
tourist traps near St Marks
Square and youll nd some
of the best seafood on oer
anywhere. Take an al fresco
table at family-owned
Osteria Oliva Nera
(Castello 3417, +39 041 522
2170; osteria-olivanera.com),
where the fresh take on
Venetian favourites is a
delight. Be sure to order
their stued zucchini owers
and if youre lucky enough
to be oered a snifter of
their homemade limoncello,
drink deeply. This little jewel
is at the pricier end of the
scale (about 60 for dinner,
with wine), but you wont
regret it.
Take a ve-minute
vaporetto trip to the
peaceful island of Giudecca.
Down a narrow alley, youll
nd Altanella (booking
recommended
Giudecca 268, +39
041 522 7780), a
family-run trattoria
where a garden
verandah overlooks a
canal with boats
moored alongside each
other like so many sardines
in a can. The menu is
simple, fresh and delicious
Grandma Irmas gnocchi
with cuttlesh ink,
homemade pasta with
anchovy sauce, just-landed
marinaded sardines ...
(meals, approx 40).
Afterwards, wander along
the quayside and soak up
the atmosphere.
Veg-lovers should make a
beeline (be sure to book
rst) for Osteria La Zucca
(Calle del Tintor, at Ponte
del Megio, Santa Croce
1762, +39 041 524 1570;
lazucca.it), near San
Giacomo Square, a small
but busy spot where the
vegetable is king, but meat
is also on the menu.
Try lunch or dinner in one
of the bustling bacari (wine
bars), above, where cicheti,
tasty snacks, eaten standing
or perched on a bar stool,
will give you a avour of
eating like a local. At the
tiny All Arco (San Polo 436,
Calle Arco, lunch only), near
Rialto, graze on roast
vegetables, langoustine,
calamari, cheeses on bread
(about 15)
CHEAPTHRILL... Make like a local andtake a traghetto(50 per crossing),
the local equivalent of a bus, tocross the GrandCanal. Venetians standup
(best not attemptedinhighheels) as the gondoliers rowacross. Osteria La Zucca
Venice is all about detail
SEPTEMBER 2012 | 93
SLEEP AT
Top of the scale, is the grand old
dame of Venetian hotels, the
Cipriani (Giudecca 10, Fondamenta
San Giovanni, +39 041 240 801;
hotelcipriani.com). Opt for one of
the elegant rooms in the main hotel
or, if you want to push the boat out,
book a suite at the Palazzo
Vendramin, the 15th-century
residence that comes complete with
butler. A big draw here besides the
stunning views is the Olympic-size
swimming pool where youll nd a
surprising number of families at play.
If nothing else, treat yourself to a
Bellini on the terrace as the sun goes
down or an excellent dinner at the
relaxed Cips Club restaurant by the
waterside. Denitely one for romantics.
Rooms from550 plus VAT.
If you prefer modern to Murano,
and want to hang with the glitterati,
PalazzinaG (Sestriere San Marco
3247, +39 041 528 4644; palazzinag.
com) is your best stop (Johnny
Depp was spotted here when The
Tourist was being shot). This 16th
century palazzo has been given the
Philippe Starck treatment and is
appropriately high design, all glass
and mirrors, leather and deep
warm shades. Rooms from 470.
For first-timers to Venice and
those who want to be near the
action at St Marks Square
Locanda Art Deco (with six rooms)
and its sister establishment,
Residenza Art Deco (San Marco
2966, Calle delle Botteghe, +39 041
277 0558; locandaartdeco.com)
offer both the usual hotel rooms
and self-catering apartments (a
good option for family visits).
Rooms from 149.
Near Rialto Bridge, where you
can browse among the souvenirs,
masks, bags and jewellery stalls,
youll find Ca Arco Antico (San
Polo 1451, +39 041 241 1227;
arcoanticovenice.com). If youre
planning to visit the Venice Film
Festival (runs to September 8;
labiennale.org/en/cinema/), this
low-key and friendly B&B is close to
Campo San Polo, which becomes
an open-air cinema for screenings.
Double rooms from 60.
DONT MISS
Take a punt on a
gondola it may be a
clich but its a great way
to discover the city. For
suggested itineraries,
check out the Istituzione
per la Conservazione
della Gondola e la Tutela
del Gondoliere
(gondolavenezia.it).
Daytime rates, 80 for 40
minutes, for up to six
passengers; theres a
supplement of 20 at
night-time (7pm-8am) and
a serenade costs extra.
Most of us have a
Bellini at Harrys Bar on
our Venice hit list, but
cheaper, less thronged
and with a nice outdoor
view, is little brother
Harrys Dolci
(Fondamenta Venieon,
Giudecca, +39 041 522
4884). Go outside meal
times and order a coffee
and la torta al cioccolato
(chocolate cake) and
settle in a for a spell of
people watching.
Art lovers are spoilt for
choice in this art-
drenched city. If modern
art is your thing, treat
yourself to an afternoon
at the exquisite Peggy
Guggenheim Museum in
her former home. With
works by Kandinsky,
Rothko, Dal, Picasso and
a sculpture garden where
Moore and Giacometti
feature and a caf to
wander around, its the
perfect size for a quick
dip into culture. (Palazzo
Venier dei Leoni,
Dorsoduro 704, +39 041
240 5411; guggenheim-
venice.it).
Come evening, take a
stroll down Le Zattere,
the promenade that runs
the length of the
southern shore of the
Dorsoduro district. Leave
plenty of time for gazing
at the fine palazzi and
churches such as Spirito
Santo and I Gesuati. This
is a popular spot for the
locals to enjoy a drink by
the Giudecca Canal. Its
as good an excuse as any
to sample some of the
worlds finest gelato at
Da Nico (Zattere 922, +39
041 522 5293) and claim
one of the many benches
to savour the view.
Aer Lingus ies fromDublin to Venice,
Tues, Thur, Sat and Sun.
Cips Club at
Hotel Cipriani
looks across
the lagoon to
St Marks Square.
Peggy Guggenheim Museum
IRISH LAW FIRM
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For more information please contact your usual A&L Goodbody Partner or Julian Yarr, Managing Partner.
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LAW FIRM 2011
For your guide to our new and exciting
On Demand movies and television
programmes, including The Avengers
(pictured), turn to page 100.
InFlight
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SEPTEMBER 2012 | 95
For your comfort and safety
Please pay attention while the
cabin crew demonstrate the
use of the safety equipment
before take-o. Also, make
sure to read the safety
instruction card, which is in
the seat pocket in front of you.
Seat belts must be fastened
during take-o and landing,
and whenever the Fasten
Seat Belts sign is switched on.
We recommend that you keep
your seat belt loosely fastened
throughout the ight.
Your seat must be in the
upright position during take-
o and landing, but can be
reclined by pressing the large
button in the armrest. Other
buttons (in the armrest or
above your head, depending
on the aircraft) may be used
to operate your reading light
and air vent, or to call a cabin
attendant.
Portableelectronic equipment
Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a
potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular
attention to the following:
Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched o and stowed
safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed. It is not permissible to use any electronic device to
transmit or receive data during the ight, however devices equipped with ight mode, or
the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is
switched o.

DEVICESPERMITTED
ATANYTIME: Devices
powered by micro battery cells
and/or by solar cells; hearing
aids (including digital devices);
pagers (receivers only); heart
pacemakers.

DEVICESPERMITTED
INFLIGHTBUTNOT
DURINGTAXI/TAKE-OFF/
INITIALCLIMB/APPROACH
LANDING: Laptops with CD
ROMor DVDdrive, palmtop
organisers, handheld calculators
without printers, portable
audio equipment (eg Walkman,
CD-player, Mini-disk player,
iPod and MP3-player). For the
comfort of other passengers,
audio devices should be used
with a headset. Computer games
(eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS).
Video cameras/recorders, digital
cameras, GPS handheld receivers,
electric shavers, electronic toys.
Bluetooth devices with mobile
phones in Flight mode, devices
with Blackberry technology
with Flight/Flight Safe mode
selected, laptops, PDAs with
built-in Wi-Fi with Wireless O
setting selected.

DEVICES PROHIBITED
AT ALL TIMES: Devices
transmitting radio frequency
intentionally such as walkie-
talkies, remote controlled toys;
wireless computer equipment (eg
mouse, keyboard); PCprinters,
DVD/CDwriters and Mini-disk
Recorders in the recording
mode; digital camcorders when
using CDwrite facility; portable
stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/
FM); TV receivers; telemetric
equipment; peripheral devices
for handheld computer games
(eg supplementary power packs
connected by cable); wireless
LAN(WLAN). Laptops with
built-in WLAN(eg Centrino) may
be used during ight, provided
the WLANoption is turned o
and subject to the restrictions
associated with the use of
laptops detailed above.
Ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le
do shbhilteacht ...
... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a
thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann
cbin ag ts na heililte
agus iad ag taispeint
conas an fearas slndla a
sid. Iarraimid ort an crta
threoraca slndla at i bpca
an tsuochin os do chomhair a
lamh chomh maith.
Caithfear criosanna sbhla
bheith ceangailte le linn ir
agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon
am a bhonn an comhartha
Fasten Seat Belts ar iasadh.
Molaimid duit an crios sbhla
bheith leathcheangailte agat i
rith an turais.
Le linn ir agus tuirlingthe, n
mr do shuochan bheith sa
suomh ingearach. Ag am ar
bith eile, is fidir an suochn
a chur siar ach br ar an
gcnaipe mr at ar an taca
uillinne. T cnaip eile ann
(ar an taca uillinne n os do
chionn, ag brath ar an eitlen)
chun sid a bhaint as an
solas litheoireachta n as an
ngaothaire, n chun glaoch ar
bhall den fhoireann cbin.
Aboard Welcome
96 | SEPTEMBER 2012
Fearas iniompartha leictreonach
Is fidir lefearas iniomparthaleictreonachcur isteachar threalamhaneitlein, rudadfhadfadhbheith
contirteach. Agus sbhilteacht mar phromhchramagAer Lingus, iarraimidort airdsabhreis athabhairt ar an
mr seoaleanas:
Caithfear gach guthn pca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a
luaithe agus a dhntar doirse an eitlein. N ceadmhach sid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonra
a tharchur n a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, fach, uirlis le cumas md eitilte, n a chomhionann
sin, a sid. Caithfear an lipad modh eitilte a roghn sula mchtar an uirlis.

GLASANNA A BHFUIL
CEADAITHE I GCNA:
Glasanna a bhaineann sid as
micreaceallair agus/n fotaichill;
cluaisn chnta (glasanna
digiteach san ireamh); glaoir
(gleacadin amhin); sadair.

GLASANNAAT
CEADAITHEI RITH
NAHEITILTE, ACHNACH
BHFUILCEADAITHELELINN
DONEITLENBHEITHAG
GLUAISEACHTARTALAMH/AG
IR DETHALAMH/ AGTABHAIRT
FAOINDREAPADHTOSAIGH/
AGDRIARTHUIRLINGT/
AGTUIRLINGT: Romhair gline
le tiomntn dlthdhiosca (CD
ROM) n diosca digiteach ilside
(DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise.
ireamhin limhe gan phrintiri.
Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms
Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir
Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar
mhaithe le compordna bpaisiniri
eile, nor choir na glasanna seo a
sidach amhin le cluaisn. Cluich
romhaire (ms Gameboy). Nl cead
gaireas forimeallach a sidle
cluich limhe romhaire amar bith
(ms paca forlontach cumhachta a
cheanglatear le cbla). Fscheamara
agus fstaifeadin, trealamh
digiteach san ireamh. Ceamara
digiteach. Glacadir limhe chras
suite domhanda (GPS). Rsir
leicreacha. Bragin leictreonacha
(seachas bragin chianrialaithe).
Glasanna Bluetooth i gcomhar
le guthin phca agus iadi modh
eitilte; uirlis a bhaineann feidhm
as teicneolaocht Blackberry agus
mdeitilte n slnmhdeitilte
roghnaithe orthu; romhair gline;
romhair boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite
agus an lipadraidi mchta
roghnaithe orthu.

GLASANNAABHFUIL
COSCIOMLNORTHU:
Glasanna a tharchuireann
minicocht raidi daon turas.
Silscalaithe. Bragan
chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhstaispena
le feadin ga-chatadideacha.
Trealamh romhaire gan sreang (ms
luch). Printir PC. Schrbhneoiri
DVD, CDagus taifeadin Mini-
disk at sa mhodh taifeadta.
Ceamthaifeadin digiteacha agus
iad ag athscrobh dlthdhiosca.
Steirnna iniompartha. Raidinna
pca (AM/ FM). Glacadiri teilifse.
Trealamh teilimadrach. N
cheadatear fearas LANgan sreang
(WLAN) a sid. Is fidir romhair
gline a bhfuil WLANionsuite iontu
(ms Centrino) a sd le linn na
heitilte ar choinnoll go bhfuil WLAN
curtha as agus faoi rir na srianta
a bhaineann le hsid romhhair
gline (thuas luaite).
Food and bar
service
A new range of food items
including sandwiches,
confectionery and a range of
snacks is available for sale
on all Aer Lingus scheduled
services to and from the UK
and Europe. A charge applies
for all drinks on UK and
European ights in Economy
class. On long haul ights,
there is a charge in Economy
class for alcoholic drinks, while
soft drinks are complimentary.
Details of all items available
for purchase are contained in
an information leaet, which is
in all seat pockets.
News, music
and movies
On long haul ights, we oer
you an extensive programme
of viewing and listening
options. For full details, turn
towards the back of this
magazine.
Seirbhs bia
agus beir
T raon nua bia ar fil anois
ar sheirbhs sceidealta Aer
Lingus a dhanann freastai
ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus
ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, t
ceapair, milseogra agus rogha
sneaiceanna agsla. N mr
oc as gach deoch sa ghrd
barainne ar na heitilt seo.
Ar eitilt Trasatlantacha, t
costas ar dheochanna neamh-
mheiscila go fill ar fil saor
in aisce. T sonra faoi gach
rud is fidir a cheannach ar
bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais
at i bpca an tsuochin os
do chomhair.
Nuacht, ceol
agus scannin
Ar eitilt Trasatlantacha t
clr leathan fachana agus
isteachta ar fil. Le hagaidh
tuilleadh eolais, fach
deireadh na hirise seo.
Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board
T thas ar Aer Lingus filte ar bord a chur romhat
SMOKING
In line with Irish government
regulations, Aer Lingus has a no-
smoking policy onboard its ights.
Smoking is not permitted in any
part of the cabin at any time.
TOBAC
De rir rialachin Rialtas na hireann,
t polasai i rimar eitilt Aer Lingus
nach gceadatear tobac a chaitheamh.
N cheadatear daon duine tobac a
chaitheamh in aon chuid
den eitlen ag aon am.
We hope you have a comfortable and pleasant fight. Thank you for choosing to fy with Aer Lingus.
T suil againn go mbonn turas compordach taitneamhach agat agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal le hAer Lingus.
SEPTEMBER 2012 | 97
News AerLingus
Aer Lingus recently announced its results for the
six month period ended 30 June 2012.
AERLINGUS CONTINUES STRONG
PERFORMANCE INFIRST HALF OF 2012

Long haul performance

was particularly strong, with
passenger volumes and yield
up 11% and 9%, respectively.
Total revenue for the
rst six months of the year
increased by 10.1% compared
to the same period in 2011.
3.4%

10.1%
AER LINGUS WELCOMES
TEAMIRELANDON
HOMECOMINGFLIGHT
Aer Lingus, proud sponsors of
Irelands Olympic Team, welcomed
Team Ireland on board its special
homecoming ight on August 13.
Flight number EI 159, an airbus
A321 named St Aidan, carrying
200 passengers, including
Team Ireland, departed London
Heathrow at 1pm and arrived
in Dublin at 1.50pm. A special
Olympic lunch menu was
oered to passengers, which
included healthy snack options.
As a memento of the ocial
homecoming ight, each passenger
received a gift of a retro sports
bag, designed in the vintage Aer
Lingus Irish Airlines colours.
The aircraft was met by Dublin
Airport re service and escorted
to its parking stand at T2. The
athletes including medal winners
Katie Taylor, John Joe Nevin,
Paddy Barnes, Michael Conlon
and Cian OConnor were greeted
by their families and friends at
Dublin Airport.
Speaking on the occasion, Aer
Lingus CEO Christoph Mueller
said, We are incredibly proud to
welcome the Irish Olympic Team
on board the special Aer Lingus
homecoming ight. On behalf of
all the sta at Aer Lingus, I would
like to take this opportunity to
oer our congratulations to Team
Ireland on their success in the
London Olympic Games.
We thankour passengers for their valuedcustom.
We will continue onour promise tooffer our customers,
Great Care andGreat Fares.
Top, Team Ireland
athletes upon their
arrival at Dublin airport
on board the special
Aer Lingus homecoming
ight, being welcomed
by Aer Lingus CEO
Christoph Mueller.
Below, Katie Taylor
waves the Irish ag.
Passenger
numbers
increased
Total
revenue
increased
January to
30 June
2012
98 | SEPTEMBER 2012
News AerLingus
The Iolar, own by Captain Pat
Murphy and accompanied by
Navigator Cliord Lebioda and
Engineer John Fields, touched down
at Cambridge Airport recently en
route to the Texel Airshow in the
Netherlands.
The De Havilland DH84 Dragon,
EAIBI named Iolar, the Gaelic word
for Eagle, was delivered to the newly
formed Aer Lingus in 1936 and operated
the very rst Aer Lingus ight on May 27
of that year, carrying ve passengers from
Baldonnel to Bristol.
This aircraft, which visited Cambridge,
is the sister aircraft of the original Iolar
and was lovingly restored by Aer Lingus
personnel last year in time for the airlines
75th Anniversary celebrations. The Texel
Aer Lingus has teamed up with
Leinster Hurling champions,
Galway, and the Galway Hurling
Supporters Club, to make the
event an even greater success.
Through the airlines strong link
with Galway GAA, they intend to
reach out to the Irish Diaspora
all over the world and encourage
players and fans of our national
game to visit their ancestral
home for this exciting event.
The competition will take
place in Galway in September
2013 and will involve 16 teams
fromaround the world and, of
course, fromthe four provinces
of Ireland. The tournament will
involve 15-a-side teams
competing in four separate
groups of four. Each teamwill
play a minimumof three games.
Aer Lingus is working closely
with TourismIreland to help
promote the Gathering initiative
and to encourage the global Irish
community to return to Ireland
for many of the planned events.
The airline will offer special
promotional fares to and from
Ireland for those travelling to the
series of events in 2013.
Roberta Zamulskyte, pictured here
with the Iolar, prepares for flight
in vintage Aer Lingus uniform,
designed by Irene Gilbert.
AER LINGUS ANNOUNCES
CODESHARE AGREEMENT
WITHETIHADAIRWAYS
Aer Lingus has reached a
commercial agreement with
Etihad Airways regarding interline
and code-share arrangements. It
is planned that Aer Lingus will co-
operate with Etihad Airways
on ights between Abu Dhabi
and Dublin and have full access to
ights across the network beyond
Abu Dhabi, to points including
Australia, Asia-Pacic, the Indian
Subcontinent and the Middle
East.
In addition, Etihad will
co-operate with Aer Lingus
on services to a total of 18
destinations, including Dublin
to New York, Boston, London
Heathrow, Amsterdam,
Manchester, Birmingham,
Edinburgh and Lisbon.
The interline and code-share
arrangements commenced in
August 2012 and will further
enhance the already wide
range of destinations and travel
opportunities available to
customers booking on
aerlingus.com.
Pictured at the launch of the Aer Lingus Homecoming
Hurling Tournament, in association with The Gathering,
were Aer Lingus CEO Christoph Mueller and Galway
hurlers Niall Burke and Johnny Coen.
AER LINGUS HOMECOMING HURLING TOURNAMENT
Aer Lingus, in support of The Gathering, will host The Aer Lingus Gathering Hurling
Tournament, which promises to be a signicant sporting event on the Irish calendar, in 2013.
THE IOLAR MAKES A FLYING
VISIT TOCAMBRIDGE ON
THE EVE OF THE OLYMPICS
Airshow was the rst stop of a German
tour, which will nish at the Berlin Airshow
from September 11-16. Other events which
the Iolar will take part in along the way
include:
September
1-3 Essen
4-6 Hannover
7-10 Hamburg
11-13 ILA Berlin Airshow
SEPTEMBER 2012 | 99
DRSEUSS THELORAX
Animation / Kids / Family (PG)
94 minutes
The world of Dr Seuss comes to life like
never before in this lively adventure from
the creators of Despicable Me!, Dr Seuss
The Lorax is an adaptation of Dr Seuss
classic tale of a forest creature who shares
the enduring power of hope. Twelve-year-
old Ted will do anything to fnd a real life
Trufala Tree in order to impress the girl of
his dreams. As he embarks on his journey,
Ted discovers the incredible story of the
Lorax, a grumpy but charming creature who
speaks for the trees. This animated feature
for all ages features catchy tunes and
hilarious gags borrowed fromother classic
family movies, fromToy Story to Babe.
STARS DannyDeVito, Zac Efron,
Taylor Swift
DiREcTOR Chris Renaud
More Movies On Demand
THE THREE STOOgES
Sean Hayes
AmERicAn REUniOn
Jason Biggs
THE LUcky OnE
Zac Efron
miRROR miRROR
Julia Roberts
THE RAvEn
Brendan Gleeson
THink LikE A mAn
Gabrielle Union
DARLingcOmpAniOn
Diane Keaton
SEEkingJUSTicE
January Jones
cOmmE Un cHEf
Jean Reno
fATHER Of invEnTiOn
Kevin Spacey
TOUcHbAck
Kurt Russell
gOOn
Seann William Scott
fLickA: cOUnTRy pRiDE
Lisa Hartman
kUngfU pAnDA 2
Jack Black
WALLAcE & gROmiT:
cURSE Of THE WERE
RAbbiT
Helena Bonham Carter
fRiEnDS WiTH kiDS
Drama / Comedy (R)
100 minutes
Friends with Kids is a daring and poignant
ensemble comedy about a close-knit
circle of friends at that moment in life
when children arrive and everything
changes. The last two singles in the group
observe the efect that kids have had on
their friends relationships and wonder if
theres a better way. They decide to have
a kid together and date other people.
There are big laughs and unexpected
emotional truths as this unconventional
experiment leads everyone in the group
to question the nature of friendship,
family and, fnally, true love. Stars Irish
actor Chris ODowd of Bridesmaids fame.
STARSKristen Wiig, Chris ODowd, Jon
Hamm, Adam Scott, Maya Rudolph,
Jennifer Westfeldt
DiREcTOR Jennifer Westfeldt
Marvels The Avengers
Dr Seuss The Lorax
Friends with Kids
FLIGHTS TOTHE US
From Dublin to Boston, Chicago,
New York and Orlando;
from Shannon to Boston and
New York; from Madrid to
Washington. Movies available
are listed below. All movie details
and ratings can be accessed
through your personal screen.
Movies
FLIGHTS TOTHE US
mARvELS THE
AvEngERS
Action / Sci-Fi / Fantasy (PG 13)
142 minutes
Marvels The Avengers is the Super Hero
teamup of a lifetime. When an unexpected
enemy emerges that threatens global safety
and security, Nick Fury, director of the
international peacekeeping agency, fnds
himself in need of a teamto pull the world
back fromthe brink of disaster. Spanning
the globe, a daring recruitment efort begins
and The Avengers Initiative is born. Iron
Man, The Hulk, Thor, Captain America,
and Hawkeye assemble, learning to work
together instead of independently. The
Avengers is the 3rd biggest grossing movie
of all time.
STARSRobert Downey Jr, Mark Rufalo,
Scarlett Johansson, Chris Evans, Chris
Hemsworth, Jeremy Renner
DiREcTOR Joss Whedon
100 | september 2012
infLigHT ENTERTAINMENT
THE HUNGER
GAMES
Fantasy / Sci-Fi / Drama (PG 13)
144 minutes
Every year in the ruins of what was once
North America, the evil Capitol of the
nation of Panem forces each of its twelve
districts to send a teenage boy and girl to
compete in the Hunger Games. The Hunger
Games are a nationally televised event
in which Tributes must fght with one
another until one survivor remains. Pitted
against highly-trained Tributes, Katniss is
forced to rely upon her sharp instincts as
well as the mentorship of a former victor
and make impossible choices in the arena
that weigh survival against humanity and life
against love.
STARSJennifer Lawrence, Josh
Hutcherson, Woody Harrelson,
Lenny Kravitz
DiREcToR Gary Ross
More Movies On Demand
WRATH of THE TiTANS
Liam Neeson
coRiolANUS
Ralph Fiennes
DETAcHMENT
Adrien Brody
WilD Bill
Charlie Creed-Miles
lA ViE DUNE AUTRE
Juliette Binoche
SAlMoN fiSHiNGiN THE
yEMEN
Ewan McGregor
A liTTlE BiT of HEAVEN
Kate Hudson
cABiN iN THE WooDS
Chris Hemsworth
WANDERlUST
Jennifer Aniston
THE BEST ExoTic
MARiGolD HoTEl
Judi Dench
fAST GiRlS
Lenora Crichlow
yoUR SiSTERS
SiSTER
Emily Blunt
AlABAMA MooN
John Goodman
MADAGAScAR 2: EScApE
ToAfRicA
Ben Stiller
SHREk foREVER AfTER
Cameron Diaz
THE fiVE-yEAR
ENGAGEMENT
Comedy (R)
124 minutes
The director and writer/star of
Forgetting Sarah Marshall team up
again for the irreverent comedy The
Five-Year Engagement. Beginning where
most romantic comedies end, the new
flm from director Nicholas Stoller,
producer Judd Apatow and Rodney
Rothman looks at what happens when an
engaged couple, Jason Segel and Emily
Blunt, keeps getting tripped up on the
long walk down the aisle. The Five-Year
Engagement is a truly modern romantic
comedy that benefts from the easy
chemistry of its leads; the funny and
romantic script adds surprising depth
and intelligence to the movie.
STARS Emily Blunt, Jason Segel
DiREcToR Nicholas Stoller
The Pirates!
Band of Misfts
The Hunger Games
FLIGHTS FROMTHE US
From Boston, Chicago, New
York and Orlando to Dublin;
from New York and Boston to
Shannon; from Washington to
Madrid. Movies available are
listed below. All movie details
and ratings can be accessed
through your personal screen.
Movies
The Five-Year Engagement
FLIGHTS FROMTHE US
THE piRATES!
BAND of MiSfiTS
Adventure / Kids / Family / Comedy
( PG ) 87 minutes
In The Pirates! Band of Misfts, Hugh
Grant stars in his frst animated role as
the luxuriantly bearded Pirate Captain a
boundlessly enthusiastic, if somewhat less-
than-successful, terror of the high seas. With
a rag-tag crewat his side the Captain has one
dream: to beat his bitter rivals Black Bellamy
and Cutlass Liz to the muchcoveted Pirate
Of The Year award. Its a quest that takes our
heroes fromthe shores of exotic Blood Island
to the foggy streets of Victorian London.
Along the way they battle a diabolical queen
and teamup with a haplessly smitten young
scientist, but never lose sight of what a pirate
loves best: adventure!
STARSVoicESof Hugh Grant, Brendan
Gleeson, Martin Freeman, Salma Hayek,
David Tennant
DiREcToR Peter Lord
september | 101
On Demand TV gives you the opportunity
to select and view your favourite TV
shows at your leisure. Look out for the
most anticipated new shows on TV in this
extensive choice of comedy and drama
as well as a variety of genres. COMEDY
HIGHLIGHTS encompasses fresh new
comedy from HBO in Veep, Girls and How
To Make It In America. Further comedy
highlights take in NewGirl, Nurse Jackie,
Modern Family, Futurama, Rev and
Absolutely Fabulous 20th Anniversary
Special. Classic comedy features Father
Ted, Sex and The City and Cheers.
As we witness a golden age in TV drama
Aer Lingus brings you an appealing selection
of DRAMA TV with the availability of both
one-of and multiple episodes. Keep an
eye out for two episodes of the compelling
and cleverly conceived In Treatment
starring Gabriel Byrne. In the stylish, smart
and black comic drama Dexter, the main
protagonist moonlights as a serial killer in
Miami in pursuit of the coldblooded Ice
Truck Killer. Also available is Bones which is
inspired by real-life forensic anthropologist
and best-selling novelist Kathy Reichs. BBC
investigative drama Scott and Bailey
explores the personal and professional lives
of two female detectives.
ON DEMAND
charged with political corruption. Julianna
Margulies has been widely recognised for
her portrayal of Alicia Florrick, winning
an Emmy in 2011, Screen Actors Guild
Awards in 2010 and 2011, a Golden Globe in
2009. Available On-Demand are six
episodes from Season 3.
TEENS onboard can view Glee, Shake It Up
and The Simpsons and kids will love Bob
The Builder, Barney and Friends, Pingu and
Thomas and Friends.
LIFESTYLE ANDMUSICHIGHLIGHTS
include Americas Next Top Model, Grand
Designs, Jamies 30 Minute Meals, Anthony
Bourdain: The Layover, Top Gear, Inside
the Actors Studio (George Clooney), Bear
Grylls Wild Weekend, Movie Talk, Other
Voices, Black Cab Sessions USA, With
Great Power: The Stan Lee Story, Planet
Rock Profles, Paul Simon (Live in New
York) and HSBCGolfng World.
DOCUMENTARYHIGHLIGHTS take
in Megastructures with an episode on
Londons Olympic Stadium. Enter a world
beyond imagination in BBCs Frozen Planet
narrated by Sir David Attenborough.
Titanic at 100 is a special History Channel
feature to coincide with the disasters 100th
anniversary. Test Your Brain from National
Geographic concludes your choice of TV.
Modern Family
Veep
In Treatment
Television
INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT
Available On-Demand is six episodes of
Season 2 from the HBO triumph Boardwalk
Empire. Steve Buscemi stars in this
award-winning drama series that charts
the continued rise of organised crime at
the dawn of Prohibition in Atlantic City,
New Jersey. In Season 2 all the promise
of last season looks to be realized with
impressively deft storytelling, beautiful
cinematography and impeccable acting.
(Hollywood Reporter)
Premium HBO drama continues in
Treme with the frst six episodes of Season
2. This Emmy-nominated drama series takes
place during the rebuilding of post-Katrina
New Orleans. It charts the interconnected
stories of several struggling musicians and
locals, as they attempt to rebuild their lives
through the music and traditions that make
them, and the city, unique.
The stylish Mad Men is set in a fctional
1960s advertising agency in New York City.
This complex and intelligent drama has
received much critical acclaim, particularly
for its historical authenticity and visual style
and has won multiple Emmy and Golden
Globe awards. Available On-Demand is six
episodes from Season 4.
Watch out for six episodes of Season
2 of Blue Bloods also set in New York, it
stars Tom Selleck. This
drama is a solid and
gritty character-driven,
multi-story series and
Sellecks character
serves as the anchor
for four generations of
police ofcers.
Award-winning
drama continues
with The Good Wife
a drama about a
politicians wife who
pursues her own career
as a defense attorney
after her husband is
102 | september 2012
Explore the magical miniature world of Taras Palace Museum of Child-
hood at Powerscourt House. Each room inTaras Palace is furnished
with miniature masterpieces, hand painted ceilings and hand crafted
wooden and marble floors. Perfect for all ages from 5 to 105.
THE MUSEUM IS HOMETO IRELANDS
LARGEST PERIOD DOLLS HOUSE
Powerscourt House, Enniskerry, Co.Wicklow, Ireland
CALL: +353 (0)1 2748090 EMAIL: info@taraspalace.ie
www.taraspalace.ie
All profits
are donated to
Irish Childrens
Charities
Specializing in advising on U.S. immigration law
and drafting U.S. visa applications for:
Excellent track record representing top Irish companies and individuals.
Personal service and fast turnaround assured.
www.obrienandassociates.com
OFFICES IN NEW YORK CITY AND KILKENNY, IRELAND
New York Kilkenny
T: 212 965-1148 T: 056-7767994
MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION
Professionals
Executives
Investors
Intra-company transferees
Multi-national managers
Family-based petitions
Interns and trainees
Artists
Outstanding individuals
in athletics, business,
entertainment and science
U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS
IRELAND' S GREAT HUNGER MUSEUM
Qui nni pi ac Uni ver si t y | 301 1 Whi t ney Avenue Hamden, CT | (203) 582 8655 www. i ghm. org
O
P
E
N
I
N
G
O
C
T
O
B
E
R
2
0
1
2 Irelands Great Hunger
Museum is home to the
worlds largest collection
of art, artifacts and
ephemera relating to
the Great Hunger that
devastated Ireland
from 1845 to 1852. This
exceptional museum
makes visible the
interconnections between
Irish and diasporic history,
culture and memory.
LILIAN LUCY DAVIDSON ARHA
(1879-1954)
Burying the Child
Oil on canvas
24 x 30 in
Radio
ON DEMAND
Chart Hits
Chart Hits lets you
discover the latest
chart hits as well
as keeping tabs
on your favourite
artists. This up-
to-the-minute Pop show unveils the
biggest smash hits from the worlds
biggest artists. Featuring newcomers
to the scene Nicki Minaj and Emeli
Sand as well as established artists
Katy Perry, Usher, Coldplay, Adele
and the queen of pop Madonna
do not miss the exciting sounds of
Chart Hits.
Music Generation
Music Generation Irelands National
Music Education Programme funded
by generous donations fromU2 and
The Ireland Funds helps young
people access music education in
their local area. In this documentary,
Doireann N Bhriain travels to Louth,
Sligo and Mayo to meet many of
those behind the programme who
tell the story of howit all began.
This documentary is funded by The
Broadcasting Authority of Ireland
in association with RT lyric fmand
Music Generation.
Fitzpatrick Hotels
This is a contemporary easy-listening
collection of songs from both sides
of the Atlantic, brought to you
compliments of The Fitzpatrick
Hotel Group USA. With two hotels
in downtown Manhattan, Grand
Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan,
Fitzpatricks is the place to stay in
NYC. Visit their website for more
information ftzpatrickhotels.com.
Fitzpatrick Hotels USA are also on
Twitter & Facebook.
Classical Daytime
Niall Carroll presents a selection
of great music from the heart
of the core classical repertoire.
Classical Daytime features some
of the worlds most loved relaxing
classics including Mozarts Clarinet
Concerto, Rodrigos Guitar
masterpiece Concierto de Aranjuez
and Saint-Saens Symphony No.3,
Organ. This show is the ideal
accompaniment to your fight and
Classical Daytime can also be
enjoyed on RT lyric fm Monday-
Friday from 10am-2pm.
My Tunes
In this edition of My Tunes Aedn
Gormley invites flm director John
Boorman to select, listen to and
discuss music from his flms. The
renowned flm director has made
Ireland his home and here he
discusses a lifetime of making flms
with a particular emphasis on the role
of music in his flms from the duelling
banjos of Deliverance to Richie
Buckleys snazzy saxophone tunes
in The General. My Tunes is on RT
lyric fm on Mondays from 7pm-8pm.
Twitter @RTlyricfm
Jazz Alley
Donald Helme devotes Jazz Alley to
the most popular instrument in the
western world, the guitar, in both
6- and 7-string form. Helme focuses
on the guitar which only came late to
jazz, once the amplifer was invented
in the 1930s. Featured artists include
Anthony Wilson, Chuck Wayne,
Howard Alden and the inventor
of the 7-string, George Van Eps.
Jazz Alley is on RT lyric fmon
Wednesday evenings from7pm-8pm.
Twitter @RTlyricfm
Documentary On One
Documentary On
One is the multi-
award winning radio
documentary strand
fromRT Radio 1
(88-90FM). Currently
the most successful documentary
unit in the world; the documentary
featured here is On a Cape Clear
Day and focuses on an American
couple who retired to Cape Clear
Island of the coast of Ireland. The
website rte.ie/doconone contains over
900 radio documentaries all freely
available to listen to/podcast. You can
also download the free Documentary
on One iPhone and/or Android app.
Twitter @RTEDocOnOne
Best of Moncrief
Best of Moncrief is a lively mix
of funny, engaging and irreverent
features. Its insightful format
gives listeners a unique listening
experience. Tune into Best of
Moncrief every weekday from
1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm
for a lively mix of phone-ins, text
messages and stories from around
the world and down your street.
Text 53106, email afternoon@
newstalk.ie or follow Sean on
Twitter @SeanMoncrief.
Easy Listening
Pop
Talk Radio
Documentary
Classical
Interview
Jazz
september 2012 | 105
Radio
ON DEMAND
Ceol na nGael
Ceol na nGael is a
traditional and folk
music programme
presented, in
Irish, by Sen
hanaigh. Sen
presents the weekly music programme
Sruth na Maoile on RT Raidi na
Gaeltachta. The station is the national
Irish language broadcaster in Ireland,
and celebrates 40 years on air in
2012. Ceol traidisinta agus ceol tre
den scoth, le Sen hanaigh. For
more visit: rte.ie/rnag. RT Raidi na
Gaeltachta is on Facebook and Twitter
@RTERnaG.
RT Jr
Join Colm Flynn
and all his friends
from The Club
on RTjr Radio for
a fun-packed show
to enjoy during
your fight! Theres music, a Disney
quiz, fun facts about fying, books,
and special guests Jedward! RTjr
Radio is Irelands only radio station
thats just for children. You can tune
in on your digital radio, online rte.
ie/digitalradio/rtejr Saorview and
on the RT Radio Player on your
mobile device to hear more.
Ronan Collins
RTE Radio 1
presenter Ronan
Collins easygoing
personality is a
welcome interlude
from the busy world
around us. Tune in to this eclectic
mix of songs where you will hear old
favourites, new hits and hidden gems.
Ronan enjoys the challenge of flling
his programme with the kind of music
that will make you smile, relax and
reminisce. Twitter @RTERadio1
Copeland Classic Hits
Welcome to the music of Copeland
Classic Hits brought to courtesy
of Louis Copeland & Sons, a name
synonymous with mens tailoring in
Dublin. Classic Hits is an exciting
selection of hits from the 1980s.
Louis Copeland is a world renowned
master tailor and provider of mens
suits for over 100 years. His stores
are located on in Dublin on Capel
St, Pembroke St and Wicklow St and
beside the IFSC, in Dublin Airport
and in Galway. From Armani, Hugo
Boss, Paul Smith and more- all
leading labels are available in all
stores. louiscopeland.com
Tubridy
Ryan Tubridys
unique
showmanship,
intelligence and
wit is broadcast
to the nation
every weekday morning on RT 2fm.
Tubridy is spontaneous, entertaining
and intelligent, and in this show he
plays his favourite songs featuring a
diverse mix of modern hits from pop,
rock to alternative and much more.
Tubridy is one of Irelands most prolifc
broadcasters. Twitter @Tubridy2fm
Phantom 105.2
Phantom 105.2
is quite simply
the home of
the very best
music played on
any Irish radio
station. Phantom is committed to
playing brand new music, Indie Rock
but really we will play all genres of
music if its a great track, we will
play it. Oh, we also like having a bit
of craic along the way so why not
try something diferent and tune
into Phantom 105.2 we promise
you wont be disappointed! We are
Phantom music that rocks!
Cleared for Take-Of
Youre
cleared for
take-of
every weekday morning from 6am
until 10am with Pat Courtenay on
Radio Nova. Also tune in to Nova
for Breakfast Reheated every
Saturday from 8am until 10am.
Courtenays show is a perfect
combination of entertainment
and of course the worlds greatest
guitar-based songs. You can call
Nova Breakfast on (01) 440 4 100.
Were online at nova.ie and you can
download our app to listen to us
wherever you are in the world.
The Big 10
The Big 10 on
98FM features
ten songs with
a connection.
Tune into the
countdown every Sunday morning at
10am as we countdown The Big 10,
each week a diferent set of songs
are featured each with a diferent
connection. Presented by Darragh
ODea of Dublins 98 FM, this special
edition of the show focuses on the
acts that will be playing concerts in
Ireland this year.
Kids
Alternative Countdown Rock 1980s
106 | september 2012
Modern Hits Eclectic Mix Traditional Irish
Great Care. Great Fare.
ITS SIMPLE.
WHEN YOUR BAG FITS, WELL LEAVE ON TIME.
At Aer Lingus, we take great care to make sure that every ight leaves on time. One way you can
help is by having the right sized baggage. So please make sure your carry-on luggage ts.
That way, well board easily and get you on your way in no time.
Maximum
weight
10kg
(22 lbs)
Maximum
weight
7kg
(15 lbs)
AER LINGUS AER LINGUS
REGIONAL
48cm
(19ins)
20cm
(8ins)
33cm
(13ins)
40cm
(16ins)
55cm
(22ins)
24cm
(9ins)
Safety brief
We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures:
Please pay attention to any
instructions given to you by the
cabin crew.
Any behaviour towards a fellow
passenger or cabin crew that
is deemed to be threatening or
abusive (including the use of
oensive language) is a serious
matter.
As our priority is the safety of
all passengers, it is important
not to interrupt the cabin
crew while they carry out their
duties, and not to interfere with
aircraft equipment.
As a service to passengers,
alcohol is served in the airport
lounges and on board. In the
interests of safety, Aer Lingus
may refuse to allow you board
if it is thought too much alcohol
has been consumed. While
the majority of passengers
are responsible, there have
occasionally been incidents
where intoxicated passengers
have caused serious safety
hazards. Passengers are
reminded also that during the
ight you may not consume
any alcohol brought onto the
aircraft by you or any other
passenger. The consumption
inight of Duty Free alcohol
purchased from the Sky
Shopping service is also
prohibited. This measure is,
again, necessary in the interests
of ight safety.
If incidents of this kind occur
during a ight, the cabin crew
is obliged to contact police on
arrival at your nal destination.
The Aircraft Captain may also
divert the ight enroute in
order to remove disruptive
passengers. Should this
happen, Aer Lingus will not
be responsible for getting
you home, your ticket money
will not be refunded, and in
addition to the authorities
awaiting you on landing you
could be heavily ned and/or
be liable to a prison sentence.
In many cases, other airlines
may subsequently refuse to
allow you to y with them.
We emphasise that while on
board the aircraft our priority
is your safety. As always, we
wish you a safe and enjoyable
ight, as well as a safe onward
journey.
Suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and well-being during your ight:
Wear loose-tting clothes on board to
allow your skin to breathe, and apply a
good moisturiser throughout.
Stretch your legs as much as possible
by taking a stroll through the cabin.
Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-
clockwise. Bend and straighten your
ankles in a brisk manner with the knee
straight.
Trace the letters of the alphabet with
your foot by moving your ankles.
Exercising your feet and legs
periodically helps to reduce any
possible eects of long-duration travel.
Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same
position for too long and gently stretch
muscles to improve your circulation.
And remember to move your neck
and shoulders during long ights to
prevent stiness.
We wish you an enjoyable experience.
Reducing the eects
of jet-lag
To help reduce the eects of travelling
and jet-lag before, during and after
your ight, we have introduced
an audio programme (available on
Channel 6), which will play every other
hour, oering 60 minutes of soothing
and relaxing audio environments. The
programme is designed to enhance
your physical and mental wellbeing
during the ight.
Apart from tuning in to the inflight
relaxation programme, here are
some other simple things that you
can do to prepare for your journey.
Ideally, avoid heavy food, alcohol,
tea or coee the day before you
travel.
When you arrive at your
destination, try to adjust your
activities gradually to the new
time zone.
Mild exercise on arrival will also
help to stimulate your circulation.
Carry-on baggage
Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted
to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and
measurements, illustrated below.
Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to
enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your ight:
In addition you may choose to carry on one of the
following, which must be placed under the seat in front:
Small ladies handbag/gents satchel
= 25cm (10) x 33cm (13) x 20cm (8)
Baby-changing/food bag
Medical/assistive devices
EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols
in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are
subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an
emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.
Wellbeing
Passengers with
wheelchair requirements
Our priority is to always ensure
the safety and comfort of all
passengers. We encourage
passengers who may need
assistance to contact us well in advance of
their date of travel to enable us to assess
their needs.
If you are a wheelchair user or require
wheelchair assistance when travelling on
Aer Lingus services, please advise us of
your requirements at least 48 hours in
advance, quoting your booking reference
number. Our contact details are as follows:
email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com
Telephone:
(Ireland) 0818 365 011
08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri &
09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun
(UK) 0871 718 20 21
(Europe) + 353 1 886 8333
(USA) 516 622 4222
108 | SEPTEMBER 2012
We offer you a relaxing, safe and secure environment where you can
expect the highest quality of care both non-surgical and surgical.
Unsure of the right destination
for your cosmetic treatment?
BEACON FACE AND DERMATOLOGY
Dublin 18; provide a number of Facial
Aesthetic treatments which are tailored
to suit your needs.
Our consultants bring their wealth of expertise
and experience together to ensure the
outcome you desire. Beacon Face and
Dermatology is a medical and cosmetic clinic
with specialist consultants and staff who are
highly trained and eminently qualied.
Take the rst step. Contact us.
For an initial meeting to discuss your needs, just get in touch.
We open Monday to Saturday.
Wrinkle Relaxer
Fillers (Plumping)
Pelleve (Skin Tightening)
Lasers (pigmentation,
sun damage, wrinkles, hair removal)
Rhinoplasty (Nose)
Blepharoplasty (eyelids)
Non Invasive( Body Contouring)
Facelift (Jowls)
TOP 8 FAVS
Suite 36, Beacon Face and Dermatology,
Beacon Hall Beacon Court,
Sandyford,
Dublin 18.
Phone: 00353 1 213 6220
Fax: 00353 1 297 30 21
Email: info@bfd.ie
www.beaconfaceanddermatology.ie
Mr. Kambiz Golchin,
Consultant ENT & Facial Plastic Surgeon on
the Specialist register of the Irish medical
council and general medical council of UK.
Located in the Irish midlands yet only about an hour from Dublin and
Cork the wonderfully restored 300 year old Castle Durrow, home to
the Lord Ashbrooks since 1716 and now to Peter & Shelly Stokes and
their many guests. Open all year round in the village of Durrow, you
will enjoy a visit to see the splendour and luxury of the Palladian
style architecture on the River Erkina, the formal gardens, the kitchen
walled garden and parkland estate, complete with many river and for-
rest walks. Enjoy the best of fresh Irish farm produce in our elegant
dining rooms overlooking the south lawns. Go for a pint and listen to
trad music in the village. Visit Kilkenny and the Rock of Cashel nearby.
Call in to Castle Durrow and see for yourself.
Website: www.castledurrow.com
Email: info@castledurrow.com
www.facebook.com/castledurrow
Tel 00353 57 8736555
Castle Durrow
IrELAnDS PrEmIum
ProvIDEr oF SErvIcED
oFFIcE SPAcE AnD
conFErEncE FAcILITIES
Prestigious Locations in
Dublin and Belfast
Business address, call answering
Flexible terms, no onerous leases
Adjustable oce layouts with
expansion capacity from
1 - 50+ persons
Extensive range of meeting rooms,
onsite restaurants and business
support services
Irish owned and family managed
oering unrivalled client service
DUBLIN
Fitzwilliam Hall, Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2
33 Fitzwilliam Square, Dublin 2
+353 1 669 4700
BELFAST
Arthur House, Arthur Street, Belfast BT1 4GB
+44 (0)28 9044 7100
www.glandore.ie

Open everyday
11 - 2 am
R. dos Remolares n8/10
1200-371 Lisboa
www.irishpub.com.pt
T: 213421899
Live Music

Sports on
Big Screen

Food all Day

Best
Guinness
in Town
The Oldest
Irish Pub in Lisbon
Un peu de France sur Leeson Street Bridge!
Locat ed i n t he hear t of cul t ural
Dubl i n, Brasser i e l e Pont combi nes
comf or t, styl e and mouth water i ng
cui si ne wi th a vi brant atmosphere
and war m and attentive ser vi ce.
Brasserie Le Pont, 25 Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2
Tel: 01 6694600 | Email: info@brasserielepont.ie
Web: www.brasserielepont.ie
A Beautiful
French Brasserie
with an Irish
welcome!
OFFERING
n wine bar
n outdoor heated terrace
n stunning Georgian private dining
rooms (Capacity 70 people)
n live jazz music
n ideal venue for intimate dinners,
corporate entertainment, product
launches, weddings or anniversaries
To & From Dublin
Austria
Vienna
Belgium
Brussels
Bulgaria
Bourgas
Canary Islands
Fuerteventura
Gran Canaria
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Croatia
Dubrovnik
Czech Republic
Prague
Denmark
Copenhagen
(commencing 28th
October)
Finland
Helsinki
France
Bordeaux
Lyon
Marseille
Nice
Paris
Perpignan
Toulouse
Rennes
Germany
Berlin
Dusseldorf
Frankfurt
Hamburg
Munich
Stuttgart
Greece
Athens
Hungary
Budapest
Ireland
Kerry
Italy
Bologna
Catania
Milan (Linate)
Milan (Malpensa)
Naples
Rome
Venice
Verona (new route)
Lithuania
Vilnius
The Netherlands
Amsterdam
Poland
Krakow
Warsaw
Portugal
Faro
Lisbon
Romania
Bucharest
Spain
Alicante
Barcelona
Bilbao
Ibiza
Madrid
Malaga
Palma
Santiago de
Compostela
Sweden
Stockholm (new route)
Switzerland
Geneva
Zurich
Turkey
Izmir
United Kingdom
Birmingham
Edinburgh
London (Gatwick)
London (Heathrow)
Jersey
Manchester
United Kingdom
Aberdeen
Blackpool
Bournemouth
Bristol
Cardi
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Isle of Man
Southend
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
RouteMaps
EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK
Santiago de Compostela
Athens
Ibiza
For more information on schedules, please visit www.aerlingus.com
Bologna
Venice
Verona
Paris
Geneva
Lyon
Zurich
Stuttgart Munich
Frankfurt
Dusseldorf
Brussels
Amsterdam
Hamburg
Berlin
Prague
Krakow
Warsaw
Vilnius
Vienna
Budapest
Nice
Rome
Milan
LINATE
Milan
MALPENSA
Bucharest
Madrid
Alicante
Malaga
Faro
Lisbon
Fuerteventura
Lanzarote
Gran
Canaria
Tenerife
Barcelona
Bordeaux
Perpignan
Helsinki
Naples
Catania
Bilbao
Palma
Izmir
Stockholm
Toulouse
Dubrovnik
DUBLIN
Aberdeen
Glasgow
Kerry
Edinburgh
Blackpool
Manchester
Isleof Man
Cardi
Bristol
London
HEATHROW
Birmingham
Bournemouth
London
GATWICK
Jersey
Southend
Bourgas
Rennes
Marseille
SEPTEMBER 2012 | 111
Copenhagen
To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon, Waterford & Gatwick
FROMBELFAST
Canary Islands
Lanzarote
Las Palmas
Tenerife
Portugal
Faro
Spain
Alicante
Barcelona
Malaga
United Kingdom
London Heathrow
FROMCORK
Belgium
Brussels (newroute)
Canary Islands
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Las Palmas
France
Nice
Paris
Rennes
Germany
Munich
Italy
Rome
Portugal
Faro
Lisbon
Spain
Alicante
Barcelona
Malaga
Palma
The Netherlands
Amsterdam
United Kingdom
London Gatwick
London Heathrow
United Kingdom
Birmingham
Bristol
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Jersey
Manchester
FROMGATWICK
Ireland
Cork
Dublin
Ireland West Airport
(Knock)
FROMSHANNON
France
Rennes
United Kingdom
London Heathrow
United Kingdom
Birmingham
Bristol
Edinburgh
Manchester
FROMWATERFORD
United Kingdom
Luton
Manchester
Southend
FROM KNOCK
United Kingdom
Birmingham
London Gatwick
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK
Jersey
Luton
Southend
Rennes
Nice
Las Palmas
SHANNON
CORK
WATERFORD
BELFAST
Knock
Dublin
Amsterdam
Munich
Barcelona
Alicante
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Rome
Malaga
Paris
LONDON
GATWICK
London
Heathrow
Glasgow
Edinburgh
Manchester
Birmingham
Bristol
Brussels
Faro
Lisbon
Palma
112 | SEPTEMBER 2012
INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS
To & FromDublin, Shannon & Madrid
FROM DUBLIN
USA
Boston
Chicago
New York
Orlando
FROM SHANNON
USA
Boston
New York
(Via NewYork/Boston
with JetBlue)
Chicago
Orlando
FROM MADRID
USA
Washington DC
Chicago
New York
Boston
Dublin
Shannon
Madrid
USA ROUTE NETWORK
Washington
Orlando
SEPTEMBER 2012 | 113
Vancouver
Edmonton
Calgary
Winnipeg
Long Beach
Salt Lake City
Burbank
San Jose
Minneapolis
CHICAGO
Kansas City
Saint Louis
Omaha
Dallas (Fort Worth)
Nashville
Atlanta
Orlando
SanJuan
Aguadilla
Ponce
WASHINGTON
DULLES
Fort Lauderdale
West PalmBeach
Fort Myers
NEWYORK
BOSTON
Toronto
Bualo
Detroit
Cleveland
Rochester
Columbus Indianapolis
Cincinnati
Lexington
Burlington
Syracuse
PortlandME
Nantucket
Seattle
PortlandOR
Denver
Sacramento
San Francisco
Oakland
Las Vegas
Los Angeles
San Diego
Phoenix
Austin
Houston
NewOrleans
Jacksonville
Tampa
Miami
Charlotte
Pittsburgh
Louisville
Richmond
Raleigh- Durham
Washington
NATIONAL
Baltimore
FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEWYORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO
New destinations with Aer
Lingus, in partnership with
JetBlue, United Airlines and
Aer Arann
Getting to the US from
destinations throughout
Europe has never been easier.
Now US, Irish and European
based customers can book
a single low fare reservation
between Ireland, Europe and
a wide range of continental US
destinations using JFK New
York, Boston and Chicago as
stopovers.
By choosing to y to the
United States via Dublin and
Shannon with Aer Lingus,
passengers can avail of United
States Customs and Immigration
Pre-clearance facilities at
Terminal 2, Dublin airport.
This facility allows passengers
travelling on the majority of
US bound ights to clear US
immigration and customs before
departing Dublin and Shannon.
Customers arrive in the US
without any further processing
requirement allowing for a
seamless transfer to their nal
destination.
NEW YORK
Connecting with JetBlue at
JFK:
When you arrive from Dublin or
Shannon, simply hop on the Air
Train to JetBlues Terminal 5 for
your domestic connection.
Passengers travelling from
the US to Ireland and Europe
will be able to check in bags at
the JetBlue domestic departure
point and then pick them up
again in Shannon or Dublin.
BOSTON
Connecting with JetBlue at
Boston Logan International
Airport:
When you arrive from Dublin
or Shannon, proceed directly
to Terminal C for your JetBlue
domestic departure.
Passengers travelling from
the US to Ireland and Europe
will be able to check in bags at
the JetBlue departure point
and then pick them up again in
Shannon or Dublin.
CHICAGO
Connecting with United
Airlines at OHare Chicago
International Airport:
On arrival at Terminal Five from
Dublin or Shannon, make your
way to the nearby ATS (Airport
Transit System), which runs
every four minutes to your UA
domestic departure point.
Passengers from the US to
Ireland and Europe can check in
bags at the UA departure point,
then exit security in Chicago
OHare to take the Airport
Transit System to Terminal
Five for the onward Aer Lingus
ight, and pick up their bags in
Shannon or Dublin.
DUBLIN
Connecting with Aer Lingus
Regional (operated by Aer
Arann) at Dublin Airport:
Aer Linguss interline agreement
with Aer Arann allows
passengers connect to Aer
Lingus transatlantic ights via
Dublin Airport, where they can
through check their luggage
directly to their nal US
destination.
All routes correct at time of going to press
CONNECTINGEUROPE, USA & CANADA
114 | SEPTEMBER 2012
INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS
Milan
LINATE
London
HEATHROW
London
GATWICK
Dublin
Shannon
Kerry
Lisbon
Faro
Malaga
Alicante
Barcelona
Palma
Madrid
Geneva
Krakow
Naples
Rome
Venice
Dubrovnik
Warsaw
Glasgow
Edinburgh
Bristol
Southend
Dusseldorf
Amsterdam
Brussels
Paris
Manchester
Isle of Man
Birmingham
Frankfurt
Berlin
Hamburg
Stockholm
Helsinki
Munich Vienna
Cardi
VIA DUBLIN
with Aer Lingus
Alicante
Amsterdam
Barcelona
Berlin
Birmingham
Brussels
Dubrovnik
Dusseldorf
Edinburgh
Faro
Frankfurt
Geneva
Hamburg
Helsinki
Krakow
Lisbon
London (Gatwick)
London (Heathrow)
Madrid
Malaga
Manchester
Munich
Palma
Paris
Rome
Stockholm
Venice
Vienna
Warsaw
VIA DUBLIN
with Aer Lingus Regional
Bristol
Cardi
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Isle of Man
London Southend
Kerry
VIA SHANNON
with Aer Lingus
London (Heathrow)
VIA SHANNON
with Aer Lingus Regional
Manchester
Birmingham
Bristol
Edinburgh
VIA NEWYORK
with JetBlue
Aguadilla
Austin
Baltimore
Bualo
Burbank
Burlington
Charlotte
Chicago
Denver
Fort Lauderdale
Fort Myers
Houston
Jacksonville
Las Vegas
Long Beach
Los Angeles
Nantucket
New Orleans
Oakland
Orlando
Phoenix
Pittsburg
Ponce
Portland ME
Portland OR
Raleigh-Durham
Rochester
Sacramento
Salt Lake City
San Diego
San Francisco
San Jose
San Juan
Seattle
Syracuse
Tampa
West Palm Beach
VIA BOSTON
with JetBlue
Baltimore
Bualo
Chicago
Dallas Fort Worth
Denver
Ford Lauderdale
Fort Myers
Jacksonville
Las Vegas
Long Beach
Los Angeles
Nantucket
New Orleans
Oakland
Orlando
Phoenix
Pittsburg
Portland OR
Raleigh-Durham
Richmond
Salt Lake City
San Diego
San Francisco
San Jose
San Juan
Seattle
Tampa
Washington (Dulles)
Washington
(National)
West Palm Beach
VIA CHICAGO
with United to USA
Atlanta
Austin
Charlotte
Cincinnati
Chicago
Cleveland
Columbus
Dallas (Fort Worth)
Denver
Detroit
Houston
Indianapolis
Jacksonville
Kansas City
Las Vegas
Lexington
Los Angeles
Louisville
Miami
Minneapolis
Nantucket
Nashville
New Orleans
Omaha
Phoenix
Pittsburgh
Portland OR
Raleigh-Durham
Sacramento
Salt Lake City
San Diego
San Francisco
San Jose
Seattle
St Louis
Tampa
VIA CHICAGO
with United to Canada
Calgary
Edmonton
Salt Lake City
Toronto
Vancouver
Winnipeg
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
SEPTEMBER 2012 | 115
116 | SEPTEMBER 2012
Connecting at Heathrow Airport
Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to
the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes.
PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE BACK OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:
You are an international connecting passenger and all your
luggage* is checked through to your final destination
*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected
from the back of the aircraft
PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE FRONT OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:
London is your final destination
Your onward connection is to a domestic UK airport
Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow
You would like to leave the airport between flights
You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance
CONNECTINGTOANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT
FLIGHTS ARRIVINGAT TERMINAL 2
If you already have a boarding card for your
connecting ight, and your baggage has been
tagged to your nal destination, simply follow the
sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which
you will see on your left hand side as you enter
the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you
will proceed to Immigration and Security Check.
After clearing these points, check the information
screens and proceed to your boarding gate.
If your baggage has not been tagged to your
final destination you must clear Immigration,
enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your
bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed
to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level.
Once you have reached the departures level,
check the information screens for your onward
flight information, and proceed as directed to
the appropriate check-in desk.
If you have any queries, or need further
assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight
Connections Desk, which is located in the
baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our
staff will be glad to help.
PLEASE NOTE: EU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin Airport
Aer Lingus
Flight
Connections
Desk
Immigration
Immigration
Security
Check
Escalator
to Gates
401 - 426
Lifts
to Gates
401 - 426
Terminal 2
Arrivals
To Gates 100s -
300s
Arrivals Route to
Baggage Reclaim
from Gates 400s
FLIGHT CONNECTIONS
Connecting ight departs
Gates 100s - 300s
FLIGHT CONNECTIONS
Connecting ight departs
Gates 401 - 426
FlightConnections
(Irish Rail)
in association with
RAI LTOURS
I RELAND
Fi rst Cl ass!
Book Today - Travel Tomorrow
Cliffs of Moher & Bunratty
Waterford & Kilkenny
Cork & Blarney Castle
The Giant's Causeway
The Ring of Kerry
The Aran Islands
Connemara & Galway Bay
Titanic Rail Trails
ONE DAY TOURS TO
NINE DAY TOURS FROM
DUBLIN
Car Free - Care Free
www.railtoursireland.com
TEL:DUBLIN + 353-1-856 0045
e-mail:
info@railtoursireland.com
Blarney Castle
and Gardens
Cliffs of Moher
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rroprietor: Micheai H Burke, chaneiie Group
American
Restaurant & Bar
BLANCHARDSTOWN CENTRE
Dublin 15. Tel: 01 822 5990
ST STEPHENS GREEN
Dublin 2. Tel: 01 478 1233
TEMPLE BAR
Fleet St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 672 8975
DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE
Tel: 01 298 7299
SWORDS
Airside, Swords, Co Dublin
Tel: 01 840 8525
BELFAST
Level 2, Victoria Square,
Tel: 028 9024 9050
www.fridays.ie
A FREE APPETISER
for one with a main
course purchased
on production of
your boarding pass
Terms and conditions apply
wagamama ireland
south king st | blanchardstown | dundrum | cork | belfast
delicious noodles
rice dishes
freshly squeezed juices
wine
sake
japanese beers
lunch menu 9.95
take out menu available
with over 135 cafes around the world, theres always
something happening at the hard rock.
12 Fleet Street Temple Bar Dublin 2 Tel: 671 7777 hardrock.com
tm
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Ji,, tle Story of lrisl Dance is
tle must see lrisl Dancin, Slow
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Tickets: N17.50 / N15 / N12
Tbeatre & Dinner
Packages: from N30
Sbows Jaiy 3pm anJ 6pm
Powerscourt Townbouse, just off
Crafton St.
Ca +353 1 6111060
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Michelin Bib Gourmand
Miss Dior Eau Frache
Eau de Toilette - 50ml
Enjoy the elegant chypre fragrance of Miss Dior in this new
fresh and luminous version with its blend of bergamot and
gardenia against base notes of patchouli.
Naked2 by Urban Decay
A taupe-centric palette of twelve neutral shadows (ve brand new)
in shades ranging from pale to deep, matt to sparkly. More beige
in overall tone than their rst Naked palette, this collection still
delivers subtle, neutral looks, smoky dramatic eyes and everything
in between.
Spicebombby Viktor & Rolf
Eau de Toilette - 50ml
Spicebomb is the new masculine fragrance
from Viktor & Rolf. Electrifying, captivating
and fearless. He doesnt just explode he
goes boom. Spicebomb oers a highly
addictive explosion of spices, tamed by an
invigorating freshness. This new fragrance
is the weapon of mass seduction!
hope in a jar
60ml by philosophy
A unique sou texture originally created for the
medical profession and recommended by plastic
surgeons and dermatologists. It will improve the
look of multiple skincare concerns including ne
lines, rough texture and dehydration. A drink of
water for your skin.
Aer Lingus Fun Plane
with FREE key-ring
Aer Lingus fun plane with realistic engine sounds and ashing
lights. It comes complete with batteries for hours of fun. Also
included is a FREE gift of a miniature plane key-ring.
118 | SEPTEMBER 2012
INFLIGHT SKY SHOPPING
Skagen Black Leather
Strap Mens Watch
Genuine style. This mens watch with a black
leather strap connects to a brushed stainless
steel case. The shiny black dial features twelve
chrome and white luminous numbered indicators,
a 24-hour dial and date function.
Scents of Ireland Luxury Candles
by Tipperary Crystal
These luxury scented candles are made in Ireland using luxury fragrances
that evoke memories of Ireland. This charming gift box contains two
wonderfully natural scented candles. The Mourne Memories candle
has a fresh, clean mountain air scent while the Sligo
Shores candle will bring back memories of the
wild Atlantic shore to your mind. Also
contains two picture postcards.
Skagen Silver Mesh
Strap Womens
Watch
Stainless steel appeal. Signature
Skagen silver mesh bands connect
to a slim stainless steel IP gold
case with gold border. The vertically
brushed chrome dial features twelve
indicators made with CRYSTALLIZED
Swarovski elements.
Shamballa Bracelet with Crystals
and Natural Stones byAeon
This high-quality Aeon unisex crystal and natural stone
beaded bracelet is part of a growing trend in jewellery that
incorporates the healing properties of natural stones into
fashion jewellery design. The crystals have always been a
renowned symbol of peace, tranquillity and happiness. The
fully adjustable 18cm to 23cm bracelet comes
presented in an Aeon organza pouch.
Pleasecheckyour
SkyShopping
brochurefor
all prices
Sky Shopping
Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing
quality items at reduced prices onboard during September.
Storm Husky Puppy
Stormis a super-soft Husky that will
always be ready for a cuddle! A
beautiful puppy that will bring a
smile to his newowner.
SEPTEMBER 2012 | 119
TRIP OF A LIFETIME
120 | SEPTEMBER 2012
more about horses than I did. On
her advice we purchased an extra
riding horse in Hungary Sarah
was already riding a tireless Irish
mare from a trekking stable in Kerry
and we converted Carty to pack-
carrying duties.
Carty plodded his troublesome
way as far as central Turkey. Due to
his thick Ardennes coat he began
to sufer in the heat. So, on Sarahs
advice, we sent him back to Europe
at the end of the frst seasons ride.
Te following spring we rode on,
replacing him with a local pack
pony, less than half his bulk. In the
footsteps of the First Crusaders we
traced the ancient Roman
road across the high
plateau of Anatolia.
It was a land of huge
horizons, grazing
focks and isolated
mud-walled villages.
Te people, devout
Muslims, refused
payment for providing
shelter and food. In their
eyes we were pilgrims
on our way to the Holy
City and deserving of
charitable hospitality.
It was high summer when we
entered Syria and turned south, often
going on foot in the blistering heat
to spare the tired horses.
Crossing the Jordan River was an
achievement in itself. Fortunately
the chief of the Israeli Police Service
was himself a horse enthusiast.
Tanks to his good ofces we were
permitted to ride across the Allenby
Bridge and the 43F of the Dead Sea
fatlands. Ten it was past Bedouin
encampments and army anti-tank
trenches to our fnal goal, Jerusalem
itself. We passed through Herods
Gate in the ancient city wall and
tethered our horses at the entrance
to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre,
Duke Godfreys prize.
Twenty-fve years later, writing a
novel set in the days of Charlemagne,
the memory of that journey is still
vivid. When the leading character of
my tale sets out on a long journey by
horseback, I know exactly how it feels.
Saxon: The Book of Dreams (Pan
Macmillan, 12.99) is out now.
R
iding a carthorse from
Belgium to Jerusalem requires
eight months in the saddle.
Before the 5,600-kilometre
trip, a West Cork neighbour
observed wryly that I would come
back so bow-legged that I would not
be able to stop a pig in a passage.
Te purpose of the ride was to
retrace the route of the First Crusade
that set out in 1096 to re-capture the
Holy Sepulchre from the Muslims.
Its leader was Duke Godfrey of
Bouillon, a direct descendant of
Charlemagne. So my own journey
began at his castle, Chateau Bouillon
in Belgium, deep in the Ardennes
Forest. For historical authenticity I
decided to ride a local and ancient
breed of horse, an Ardennes Heavy
Horse. Tese massive creatures are
still used in preference to tractors
for pulling logs out of the forest. In
Duke Godfreys day they provided
the battle chargers for his knights.
In my ignorance I imagined
Duke Godfreys entourage riding
out from Chateau Bouillon on
their heavyweight warhorses. I was
wrong. Tey would have travelled
on lighter, more comfortable horses
and switched to their ponderous
war chargers when ready to do
battle. Riding Carty, as my mount
was called, was a spine-shattering
experience. It was like sitting astride
a moving billiard table that slams its
eight-inch-diameter hooves into the
ground with every step.
Nor was Cartys gait his only
drawback. He was fendishly
obstreperous, cunning, obstinate
and so strong as to be impossible
to control. One night in Austria,
looking for a midnight feed, he
simply pushed his way out of a
stable, carrying away the iron door
surround draped like a picture frame
around his massive shoulders.
Fortunately Sarah, my travelling
companion and another West
Cork neighbour, knew a great deal
Top, a statue of
the leader of the
First Crusade,
Duke Godfrey
of Bouillon, at
his Chateau in
Belgium the
place that explorer
Tim Severin
chose to begin
his long journey
on horseback to
Jerusalem. Above,
Tim at work.
On a
crusade
Adventurer TimSeverin recalls the unruly carthorse that
made retracing the route of the First Crusade so memorable.
TRIP OF A LIFETIME