Session 2 : Classification of sewing machine and Important parts of SNLS

Lock Stitch

Description
The lockstitch uses two threads, an upper and a lower. The upper thread runs from a spool kept on a spindle on top of or next to the machine, through a tension mechanism , a take-up arm , and finally through the hole in the needle.

The lower thread is wound onto a bobbin, which is inserted into a case in the lower section of the machine. To make one stitch, the machine lowers the threaded needle through the cloth into the bobbin area, where a hook catches the upper thread at the point just after it goes through the needle. The hook mechanism carries the upper thread entirely around the bobbin case, so that it has made one wrap of the bobbin thread. Then the take-up arm pulls the excess upper thread ( from the bobbin area ) back to the top forming the lockstitch ideally in the center of the thickness of the material The tension mechanism prevents the thread from being pulled from the spool side, the needle is pulled out of the cloth, and the feed dogs pull the cloth back one stitch length, the cycle is repeated as the machine turns mechanically

Lockstitch is so named because the two threads, upper and lower, "lock" together in the hole in the fabric which they pass through. The term "single needle stitching", often found on dress shirt labels, refers to lockstitch.

Use of Lock stitch machine: Neck join purpose (T-shirt ), Top stitch, etc.

OVER LOCK MACHINE

Parts of sewing SNLS

Various Stitch-forming parts are : Thread Control Devices Needles Boobins, Bobbin Case , and Hooks Loopers Spreader Throat Plate Stitch tongue and chaining Device

 Thread control devices includes thread guides, tension devices, and take-ups , which are necessary to provide uniform thread flow. Thread guide control the positioning and movement of thread. Tension devices control the flow and tightness of stitch.

The throat plate has stitching guide lines on it and has a hole for the needle to pass through to the bobbin casing

The presser foot holds the fabric against the feed dogs; so the feed dogs can pull your fabric through the machine.

The presser foot lifter gently lifts the presser foot up and lowers it against the feed dogs.

Note: the presser foot must be lowered before you begin to sew; or fabric will not move through the machine!

The take-up-lever pulls the thread back after each stitch, so that the stitches will lay evenly into the fabric.

Back Tack Lever

The Back Tack Lever allows you to stitch in reverse. We use reverse to make our stitches secure at the beginning and end of seams.

Sewing Machine
General-Purpose machine. Special purpose machine

Automation
Manually operated. Semi-Automatic Automatic sewing machine. Robotized Machine.

Stitch-Forming Mechanism
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Thread control devices . Needles Bobbin, Bobbin case and Hook Loopers Spreader Throat plate , tongue and chaining plate. Threading Fingers and auxiliary hook.

Needle Lubricating system

Manual Automatic

Thread Control Devices

Thread guides Tensioning devices Thread take up control the supply of thread required to form each stitch. It give extra thread to the needle to form the stitch but it takes it away to set the stitch.

 A hook is a rotating device encompassing the bobbin case that picks up the needle thread loop to form a lock-stitch. Loopers may carry lower thread to interlock with needle thread or other looper thread. Spreader work in conjuction with looper to assist loop formation. They move the thread but do not carry thread.

 Stitching tongue or chaining plate are pointed metal extension that may be part of or attached to throat plate. Stitch tongues are essential for formation of three dimension stitches ( 400, 500 and 600 )

Drop feed Mechanism

Drop feed Mechanism

Throat plate is the most passive of the three parts and its function is to provide a smooth , flat surface over which the fabric passes as successive stitches are formed. It has one or more slots in it which the needle passes as it goes up and down. The slot should be only 30 percent larger than the size of the needle since otherwise flagging can happen.

Drop feed Mechanism

The purpose of the feed dog is to move the fabric along by a predetermined amount between successive stitches. The amount of fabric movement and thus the stitch length, is controlled by means of a stitch length regulator.

Drop feed Mechanism

Feed dog consists of a toothed surface which rises through the opening in the throat plate, engages the under surface of the fabric, moves that fabric along the toward the back of the machine, and drop again below the throat plate before commencing the next cycle.

Drop feed Mechanism

As the feed dog drop below the throat plate , this plate support the fabric so that it losses contact with the feed dog and is not carried back with it. The motion of the needle in up and down direction must be synchronized accurately with the elliptical movement of the feed dog so that movement of the fabric take place only when needle is out of the fabric.

Drop feed Mechanism

The teeth on the surface of the feed dog can be of different types and sizes but they are generally slanted slightly toward the direction of fabric feeding. Tooth pitch is measured from distance from peak to peak. For sewing light weight fabric a tooth pitch of 1.3-1.6 mm is normal with the peaks slightly rounded off if damage occur on fine fabrics.

 Very light weight fabric pitch of 1.2-1.25 mm is used. In heavy weight fabric feed dog of 2.5 mm is used .