Marlinespike - Introduction

Marlinespike is the art of seamanship that includes the tying of various knots, splicing, working with cable or wire rope, worming, parceling, serving and even making decorative ornaments from rope or line. The name marlinespike is derived from the tool that is used for splicing. It can be a tapered metal pin or carved of wood. Once a rope is onboard a boat and is given a specific purpose, such as dock line, halyard, etc. it is called a line, not a rope. Although you wont be asked to actually tie a knot for your USCG License exam, you should be familiar with several knots, know how to tie them, how to recognize them and be able to explain their use. Also, if you are going for a 100 ton Masters license you will need to know about wire rope, breaking strengths, block and tackle (pronounced taykle), etc.

Marlinespike - Types of Rope Construction

Types of Rope Construction Rope is constructed in two basic ways, laid and braided, although there are variations on the theme. The first is "3 strand" line. The direction of twist is called the lay of the rope. Three strand twisted line can be "laid" right or left, and should always be coiled with the lay of the line. This rope is described as S-laid (left-laid) or Z-laid (right-laid) according to whether the twist follows the line of the center part of the letter S or Z. Most three strand rope is Z-laid (right-laid) If you hold a length of 3 strand right-hand laid twisted line at arm's length and eyeball it, you will see the wrap of the line twisting to the right. The construction of stranded line, whether natural or synthetic, is much the same. Individual fibers are twisted into yarns, the yarns are twisted into strands and the stands are twisted into line. Right-laid is twisted clockwise and left-laid is twisted counterclockwise. The fibers are twisted in the same direction as the strands,

however the yarns are twisted in the opposite direction. This right, left, right for right-laid line helps give strength, keep the line from kinking and hold its shape. The other construction type is braided line. This type of line does not stretch to the degree that twisted line does, and is more difficult to splice. However, it goes through a pulley or block very well because of its rounded shape, and is stronger than its equivalent-sized twisted line. Braided line also tends to snag when used as docking line if the pilings are rough.

A variety of braided lines are available: Braid on Braid has a braided core inside a braided sheath - will stretch less, and has less flexibility, than a hollow braid. Multibraid is braided with 2 pairs of Z-laid and two pairs of S-laid strands it is flexible and does not kink. Parallel Core has a braided sheath over a core of straight or lightly twisted yarns it is very strong. Hollow Braid has no core is very flexible but can flatten during use. It is only found in small sized rope.

Marlinespike - Rope Materials

There are many materials used today to make rope; synthetic fiber, natural fiber and wire. The most popular is nylon, a synthetic. It is strong, holds up well to the weather and stress, and coils without kinking. Line is also made from natural fibers like cotton and hemp (manila), and other synthetic fibers such as dacron, kevlar, and polypropylene. Polypropylene line is the least expensive of the synthetic lines, however, it deteriorates quickly from ultra-violet rays and wear. It is not a good line for dock line because its hard surface tends to slip from cleats and can cause cuts if it runs free through your hands. It floats, so it is good for rescue lines. It is also appropriate for ski lines, dinghy painters, short mooring pendants or other applications where you want to be able to see the line on top of the water. Not for use as dock, anchor or towing lines. Nylon rope has a lot of stretch (up to 40%) and is very strong for its size, allowing it to absorb shock loads well. However, when it is wet it can loose up

to 25% of its strength. It wears well, resists mildew and rot, and does not float. Nylon three-strand is the preferred line for dock lines since it stretches sufficiently to dampen the shock of wave action and wind against your cleats. Just make sure it does not stretch too much for the situation in which you use it. Polyester rope wears better than polypropylene, is almost as strong as Nylon, and retains its strength when wet. It does not stretch as much as Nylon and does not float. Polyester (such as Dacron) is used for sailboat running rigging, anchor rode, towing lines and other applications where you don't want line stretch to interfere. It will, however, chafe easily so check it often and protect as necessary. When cutting synthetic rope, prevent the ends from fraying with a temporary binding or whipping. Synthetic rope ends can be sealed by melting, either with a special heat tool for the purpose of cutting and sealing (as shown in photo), or by melting over a flame to fuse the fibers. Adhesive tape wound around the ends can be a temporary binding. Small line ends can be dipped into acetate glue or a commercial "liquid whipping" material. Plastic heat-shrink tubing is also available. Synthetic lines are lighter and stronger and more rot-resistant, generally, than natural fiber ropes. Synthetic lines are slipperier than natural fiber ropes so be sure to check your knots to make sure they are secure. Synthetic lines should be cleaned with fresh water and detergent, kept out of sunlight, inspected frequently for chafe, and stored dry. Natural fibers such as manila, sisal, hemp and cotton will shrink when they get wet and also tend to rot or become brittle. Manila is still used today on large ships and is the best natural fiber for mooring lines, anchor lines and as running rigging. Manila has a minimum of stretch and is very strong. However, it has only about one-half the strength of a comparable-sized synthetic line. Natural fiber line should be uncoiled from the inside of a new coil in order to prevent kinks. Always whip or tape the ends of natural fibers to keep them from unraveling. When natural fiber lines have been in salt water you should rinse them in fresh water and allow to dry thoroughly. They should then be properly coiled and stored on grates above deck in a dry, well-ventilated place to help prevent mildew and rot.

Marlinespike - Rope Breaking Strength

Each type of line, natural fiber, synthetic and wire rope, have different breaking strengths and safe working loads. Natural breaking strength of manila line is the standard against which other lines are compared. Synthetic lines have been assigned "comparison factors" against which they are compared to manila line. The basic breaking strength factor for manila line is found by multiplying the square of the circumference of the line by 900 lbs. (900 lbs. X circumference2 = breaking strength) When you purchase line you will buy it by its diameter. However, for purposes of the USCG license exams, all lines must be measured by circumference. To convert use the following formula. Circumference = p PI (3.14) X diameter As an example, if you had a piece of " manila line and wanted to find the breaking strength, you would first calculate the circumference. (.5 X 3.14 = 1.57) Then using the formula above: 1.572 X 900 = 2,218 pounds of breaking strength To calculate the breaking strength of synthetic lines you need to add one more factor. As mentioned above, a comparison factor has been developed to compare the breaking strength of synthetics over manila. Since synthetics are stronger than manila an additional multiplication step is added to the formula above. (comparison factor X 900 lbs. X circumference2 = breaking strength) Following is a comparison factor chart for synthetic lines.

Line Material Nylon Dacron Polypropylene

Comparison Factor (greater than manila) 2.5 2.0 1.4

Using the example above, lets find the breaking strength of a piece of " nylon line. First convert the diameter to circumference as we did above and then write the formula including the extra comparison factor step. 2.5 X 1.572 X 900 = 5, 546 pounds of breaking strength Knots and splices will reduce the breaking strength of a line by as much as 50 to 60 percent. The weakest point in the line is the knot or

slice. However, a splice is stronger than a knot. Just being able to calculate breaking strength doesnt give one a safety margin. The breaking strength formula was developed on the average breaking strength of new line under laboratory conditions. Without straining the line until it parts, you dont know if that particular piece of line was above average or below average. Next we will discuss safe working load.

Marlinespike - Rope Safe Working Load

Knowing the maximum safe working load for line can help prevent accidents and tragedies. You should never stress a line anywhere near its breaking strength. As line is spliced, stretched, wears, is subjected to sustained loads, shock loads, loads of many times the recommended working load, subjected to great heat or ultraviolet light for long periods of time it will continually loose some of its strength. Each line should be inspected prior to using it in extreme load conditions and if chafe, excess dirt, cut or worn strands, stiffness or hardness are found the line should not be used. Important: Do not allow anyone to stand in line with, or within 45 degrees on either side, of a line under tension. Should the line part, the recoil force may cause serious injury. Safe working load is generally thought of as no more than 1/5th of a lines breaking strength. Said another way, the breaking strength should be five times the weight of the object the line is going to hold. You are not expected to memorize the tables below but you should remember this 5 to 1 safety rule. You should always choose a line with its intended safe working load in mind. The American Boat and Yacht Council has published charts of safe working loads for various types of line and are outlined below. American Boat and Yacht Council Safe Working Load (in pounds) 3 strand twisted line and single braid line

Diameter 1/4 5/16 3/8 1/2

Circumference 3/4 1 1 1/8 1 1/2

Manila 120 160 216 424

Nylon 182 281 407 704

Dacron 182 281 407 704

Polypropylene 213 232 459 714

5/8 3/4 7/8 1

2 2 1/4 2 3/4 3

704 864 1232 1440

1144 1562 2200 2750

1100 1375 1980 2420

1054 1445 1955 2380

American Boat and Yacht Council Safe Working Load (in pounds) Double braided line

Diameter 1/4 5/16 3/8 1/2 5/8 3/4 7/8 1

Circumference 3/4 1 1 1/8 1 1/2 2 2 1/4 2 3/4 3

Nylon 420 680 960 1630 2800 3600 5300 6260

Dacron 350 560 750 1400 2400 3000 4800 5600

Marlinespike - Terminology

the free end of a line Bitter end: the longer part of a line which is fixed during the tying of a knot Standing part: Bight: Turn: a circle of rope made by crossing the rope over itself Crossing Turn: Loop: Splice: wrapping twine or tape around line to lines end to prevent unraveling Whipping: Seizing: Worming: Parcelling: Serving: Flemish: Faking: Flaking: Short splice: Long splice: the strongest way to connect two lines. This splice has 6 strands in the cross section and is thick and may not run through a block the strand of one line replaces the strand of the other line. The size of line is kept the same however, and it is weaker than the short splice winding small line against the lay and over worming and parcelling to protect line from chafe and water damage to make a Flemish coil by taking the end of a line and laying it in a tight flat spiral on the deck. Used to "tidy" up and keep line neat laying a line on deck in a series figure eights so the line will run free without tangling laying out line on deck in parallel rows. Dont confuse with faking. wrapping twine or tape around two lines to bind two parts of line side by side laying smaller line in the spiral grooves (with the lay) between line strands winding strips of canvas over, and in the same direction as, worming a circle of rope made by bringing two parts of the rope together without crossing them over each other weaving strands of a line to itself or to a second piece of line The part of the rope between the end and the standing part. A loop formed by folding the rope back on itself a loop formed around a post, rail, or the line itself

stronger than any knot in forming a loop in a line Eye splice: a metal or plastic form inserted in the eye splice to prevent chafe Thimble: Back splice: splicing a line back on itself to prevent unraveling - it like the short splice has a cross section of 6 strands and may not be able to be pulled through a block A loop made in the end of a rope either by knotting, seizing or splicing. Rope made into a neat series of loops or circles, usually for storing. Coil:

Eye:

Worming, parcelling and serving are words left over from the old days when most line was made of manila. However, you may see these words used in the USCG exam. The purpose is to prevent chaffing of the line and keep water out to control rot.

Remember this rule: Worm and parcel with the lay; turn and serve the other way. Marlinespike - Line Handling and Stowing

Neatness counts, especially because its also safer. Dont throw lines in heaps about the boat. Theyll kink, tangle or jam when you need them and you and your passengers are likely to trip over them. Get into the habit of coiling your lines when they are not in use, and flemishing any lose ends on deck or dock. There is a good reason for this (besides looking good): stepping on a loose line can be like stepping on a marble, while stepping on a flemished line is like stepping on a mat. It also protects your lines from unnecessary (and unsafe) wear and tear and helps preserve the lay of twisted rope. Twisted rope should be put into round coils. Right-laid rope, as most twisted

rope is, should be wound clockwise, while left-laid rope should be wound counter-clockwise. Preserving the lay of the rope in this way will make for line that coils easily and plays out smoothly. Braided rope has no preferred direction and often loops into figure eights naturally. This will also run out smoothly.

Stowing the line Take three or four feet of line from the back of the coil and make three turns around the coil. Pass a loop of the free end through the top of the coil. Pass the free end through the newly created loop. Take the loop over the top of the coil and pull the free end to fasten. The free end should hang slightly longer than the coil so it can be located quickly.

Another method better suited for storing the line in a rope locker is to double the end of the completed coil to form a long loop. Pass the loop, in a clockwise turn, around the head of the coil, passing the end of the loop under its own midsection. Take another turn around the coil to the left of the first one and tuck the end of the loop under this second turn. Pull tight so that the end of the loop stands free and can be used as a hanger. Again, make sure the free end hangs down a bit so it can be located quickly.

Tips . . . Chafing (repeated rubbing of an area of the rope against an abrasive surface) will greatly weaken the line and make it unable to bear strain. Protect the line from chafing by sliding a snug plastic tube over the area that comes in contact with a dock or other surface. Alternatively, cover the surface with a smooth, sturdy material. Tying knots or hitches in the same place often will cause that part of the line to weaken. Occasionally switch the line ends (like rotating your tires) and try to tie knots and hitches in different areas of the line. Prolonged exposure to rust, dirt, sand or mud deteriorates rope. Any stiff or hard lines should be replaced. Whichever lines you choose to use make sure they are kept out of the sun when not in use, clean, unfrayed, dry and coiled neatly. Don't leave knots in a stowed line for long periods of time. To clean rope, scrub it with a solution of liquid soap and water. Dry completely before storing. A line under tension, especially nylon line, can be a lethal weapon if it, or what it is attached to, fails. The line will recoil with a force that can cause serious injury and/or damage. Keep your lines in good condition, replace them when worn and always monitor lines under stress. Do not allow anyone to stand in line, or within 45 degrees on either side, of a line under stress.

Marlinespike - Knots to Know

As mentioned earlier, if you are planning to take the USCG license exam you will not be expected to actually tie knots, however, you will find several questions concerning the names of knots and their intended use. Following is a graphic that you may see when taking the exam and you will be asked to identify the different knots pictured.

This illustration was taken directly from the U.S. Coast Guard exam prep materials. Knot W, as illustrated, is a thief knot, not a square knot as it is identified in the text. Thanks to Robert Kibitz for noticing this! E: Timber hitch and half hitch: used for hauling timbers. F: Round turn and two half hitches: use to permanently tie up to a piling. G: Fishermans bend AKA anchor bend: used to tie a rode to the anchor.

H: Becket or sheet bend: used to tie lines of different sizes together. I: Bowline on a bight: used for rescuing a person by putting a leg though each loop if conscious or if unconscious put both legs through one loop and the chest and arms through the other. J: Plain whipping: a quick way to whip the end of line. K: Sailmakers whip: requires a sailmakers needle. L.: Double blackwall hitch: for attaching a line to a cargo hook. M: Carrick bend: for connecting two large hawsers. N: Stopper: a length of line attached to running with a rolling hitch in order to relieve strain on the running rigging. O: Barrel hitch: for lifting barrels. P: Rolling hitch: used for fastening a line to a spar. Q: Bowline: the king of knots. Used to form a temporary loop in a line. Wont slip or jam under strain. R: Double sheet bend: used to secure two lines of different diameters. S: Blackwall hitch: used to attach a line to cargo hook. T: French bowline: used like a bowline on the bight for rescue. U: Half hitch: a turn of line around an object with the bitter end led back through the bight. V: Marline hitch: used to lash canvas to a spar. W: Square knot AKA reef knot: used to connect two lines of different diameters. X: Clove hitch: use to temporarily attach a line to a piling. Can come loose unless it is followed by a half hitch.

Marlinespike - Useful Knots and Hitches for Boaters

Bowline

Anchorbend

Sheepshank

Cleat Hitch

Clove Hitch

Round Turn & 2 Half Hitches

Bowline - "The Boater's King of Knots"

If you're only going to learn one knot this season, here it is. The bowline is a very versatile knot. It is used to form a temporary loop in a line which may then be put over a piling or cleat. It can also be used to attach a line to an eye. This knot wont slip or jam and can be untied easily.

Marlinespike - Hitches - Anchorbend (aka Fisherman's Bend)

For securing a line to an anchor or buoy.

Pass the working end of the line through a ring from front to back to form a round turn. Bring the working end down and behind the standing part. Bring it over the standing part and through the round turn to form a half-hitch around the standing part.

Bring the working end down and behind the standing part.

Then bring the working end over the front of the standing part and under itself to form another halfhitch.

Tighten the knot by pulling on the working end and the standing part.

To make it more secure, or to form a more permanent hitch, the short working end can be seized to the standing part. Seizing is a method of binding two pieces of rope side by side.

Marlinespike - Hitches - Sheepshank

A sheepshank can be used to shorten a length of rope or to take the strain off a worn area of rope. The worn area must be in the center turn of the knot so that the tightened outer turns bear the weight.

Start with three crossing turns that are all in the same direction. Pull the left center crossing (L) through the middle of the left crossing turn from the front, while pulling the right center crossing (R) through the middle of the right crossing turn from behind.

Pull on the loops you just formed and then on the standing parts so that the outer crossing turns tighten around the loops.

This knot will only hold when strain is applied to the standing ends. If the line becomes slack, the outer crossing turns will loosen and the knot will fall apart.

Sheepshank Man o' War

More secure, and certainly more decorative, than the sheepshank, this version starts with four overlapping crossing turns (all in the same direction).

Pull the right center strand (R) through the right outer turn from back to front and the left center strand through the left outer turn from front to back.

Marlinespike - Hitches - Cleat Hitch

Take the line to the ear of the cleat furthest from where the line comes from (the load). Take one wrap around the base of the cleat and then start a figure eight across the top of the opposite ear. Finish with a half hitch turned under so that the line is coming away from the cleat in the opposite direction from which it came in.

Marlinespike - Hitches - Clove Hitch

Used to temporarily tie to a piling, this knot can come loose. You may add a couple of half hitches to make it more permanent. This knot is simply two loops with an end tucked under.

If you can reach the top of the piling, an alternative way to tie a clove hitch is to follow the instructions below and then slip the loop over the piling and tighten.

Marlinespike - Round Turn & Two Half Hitches

Used to permanently tie to a piling, mooring or ring. Take a full turn around the object being tied to and take two half hitches around the line itself.