AN

IVORY

TRADER KENIA

IN

NORTH

THE

RECORD KIKUYU

OF TO

AN

EXPEDITION IN AFRICA

THROUGH
EAST

GALLA-LAND

EQUATORIAL

WITH

AN

ACCOUNT

OF

THE TRIBES

RENDIU

AND

BURKENEJI

BY

A.

ARKELI^HARDWICK,

F.R.G.S.

WITH

TWENTY'THRRB

ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP

PROM

PHOTOGRAPHS,

LONGMANS,
39 PATERNOSTER
NEW YORK

GREEN,
ROW,
AND BOMBAY

AND
LONDON

CO.

1903
AU

ri^iis nterved

THE

NEW

YORK

PUBLIC

LIBRARY

451579
A"T"",
LENOX
AND

FOl'"jr"ATIONi. 1908

"

"

*""

"

"

"""

"""

"

COLONEL

COLIN

HARDING,

CM.G.

OP

THE

BRITISH

SOUTH

AFRICAN

POLICE

TO

WHOSE

KIND

SNCOtTRAGEMENT

WHBN

IN

COMMAND

OP

PORT

CHICKWAKA,

MASHONALAND

THE

AUTHOR

OWB8

HIS

LATER

BPPORTS

TO

GAIN

COLONIAL

EXPERIENCE

THIS

WORK

IS

DEDICATED

PREFACE

Although of
me

there

may

be

no

for jastification

the

productioii
with

this nnd^

work,
the which

the

reader

will

perhaps
Act.** commit

deal

leniently
the of

"First

Offendecs
me

Among
the crime is the

vaiions

reasons

prosqstod
to

to

adding
that
;

eoiBtrilmtion
or

the

World's

literature certain

fact

little
to

nothing
the whose
to

is known and is

concerning BnrkenejL
as

peculiar tribes
are
a

wit,

Bendili

They
in

nomadic In

people
addition
to

origin
this^
an

yet
of

wrapped
the

mystery.
and

account

trials
to

difficulties that

be

encountered

in

the

endeayour will

obtain

rapidly
into

vanishing commodity,
whose accidents It has hands this flood
work

ivory,
may field."

perhaps please delight

in

those

fall who

''moving

by

and
to
me

been
of

source

of

lasting regret
were

that
some

great
way and
I
or

many other

my

photographic
lost such
as on

negatives
our

in

unfortunately
on

homeward
were

journey,
those

as

usually happens
most,
of the of inasmuch lower the

occasions, they
included Waso all

valued

they
of the

my
Biver

graphs photoand I

course

Kyiro

also

those

Sendili

and
to

Burkeneji
Hazeltine

peoples.

am,

however,

greatly

indebted

Mr.

Frost, M.RP.S.,

viii

PREFACE.

of Muswell he

Hill,K., for the

some

caie

and

skill with

which

has rendered

of

the

mutilated remainingbadly
of illustration.

suitable for the purposes negatives In the

I
name

course

of this narrative it will be observed that various countries Waprefixing This

or

the

people of the
we

districts the
name

throughwhich
of the Swahili
name

passedby

to

district they inhabit.

is in accordance
a

with

native as practice, theygenerally designate

by

the

of his country
a

prefixed by

an

M*, which in this

Wa-. being The

case

denotes of

man,
or

the

M' of plural

plural

M^Eamba,
an

inhabitant of

Ukamba,

is therefore Wa'-

Eamba, and
is

M'Unyamwezi, or
in the

inhabitant of Doubtless
to applies
a

Unyamwezi,

Wa'Kyamwezi
argue

plural. only

hyparcriti
the Swahili

would

that this rule

and language,
are

the consequently

names

of those tribes who

be outside

in

no

way He

connected with the Swahilis would would be I but right ;

am

the rule. all Wa-

them call to going

for the sake of convenience and to avoid confosion.

to

I have endeavoured

before place

the reader

an

account

of the
me

as incidents, amusing and tragic, they appearedto

at the tima

Should

the narrative prove

uninterestin
incidents the most
"

I think,be due to it will,

The faulty description. stimulate

related

were

to sufficiently exciting

and they have jadedimagination, the merit of

the rarest of all merits

beingtrue.
A. A..H.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER
PSEPABATI0N8 AND

I.
START.
PAOB

Engaging
and

porters"Characteristics of Swahili, Wa*Nyamwezi,

porters
" "

and
Arms

Wa*Eamba

Sdecting trade goods Mnnlpara

" "

"

^Provisions" of
some

ammunition

^The
servants

Sketch
of

principal
Disour register

porters" Personal

List of

trade

goods taken"
to

tribntmg the loads"

disaster"
Farm" Visitors" I Start of

Befnsal

the Gbvemment
natives"
"

of the porter"" Reported hostility

Finlay and Gibbons'

^We
near move

the
a

Somali

safaris
"

to

Eriger's
Farm
"

M The

into
start

game-pit

Camp

Kriger*s

"

CHAPTEB
FROM
KRIQEieS

11.
TO MARANGA.

Off

to

Doenyo

Sabnk"

Troables Eaten river" find bid I

of

safari" ticks"

George takes My
argnment
We

bath with

"

The

Nurobi

Falls" The
Athi

by
the
us

rhinoceros"

"k"od Athi

Lions" fishing-" in flood"

"

Camp
bnild
a

near

Doenyo
"

Sabnk-

We

raft
"

Eriger and
cross

Enapp
Athi
"

adien
a

Failnre of

of

onr

raft

We

the
"

open
"

box
We
"

cigars" Crossing the

reach the
"

Thika-Thika Tana
"

Bad
to

coontry
the

unexpectedly

^The

ddtaur

Maragna

Crossing the Maragna

InKikuynland

26

CHAPTER
FROM
THE

III.

TANA

TO

M'BU,

We

reach

and We

cross

the Tana"
a

Maranga
We

"

^The
the

abnndance

of food
to

thereof"

open

market"

treat

Maranga elders

CONTENTS.
PA"B

"

dgan with dittstrousreBoIta" Btd chaiacter of the Wa'M^bu We with the rofiome our joorney^-A misanderstanding We reach M^o A'kiknyn"

49

CHAPTER
FROM

IV.
KENIA,
TO
ZURA.

3PBU,

ACROSS

EAST

First sight of Renia"

by the Ml"a people" tions DemonstraWe unpress two goides ^Passage H'ba" through in foroe by the inhabitants ^Farewell to ITba"The by the goidesdeaert" Arrival m Znka" Friendly reoeption Wa'toka Moravi Znka ^Mnimbe ^Passage throagh ^Igam" Arrival at Zora" Welcome by Dirito, the chief of Zora
" "
"

Hostile demonstrations

"

"

"

...

65

CHAPTER
ZURA

V.
A VISIT

TO.

M'THARA,
reverse

AND

TO

EMBE,

The

Somalis suffer a

in

Bmbe"

We

leaoh MoDitfaii"

Karanjm" El Hakim's
war are

with the Tomori disagreement

people
"

Arrival at MHhara"NDommnki" "*Bhami"" We combine

to

Arrival of the Somalis" A the punish

Wa'embe, but
83

defeated" Death of Jamah

Mahomet^"
to camp

Murder of Nl)omi-

nuki*s nephewby Ismailr-Betnm

CHAPTER
OUR

VL
AND
"

MOVEMENTS

IN to
accuse

M'THARA

MUNITHU.

Attempt

of the Wa^M^ara

loot

He treacheiy" of vindicates himself" That wicked little boyl ^Ezf^anation the Embe Somalis lose heart" Attacked by ants reverse" El Hakim's viat to Munithn" Bobbery of his goodsby the ^I the stolen Wa'Gnahiu joinhim" We endeavour to recover

Ismail" The

Somalis

camp" N*Dominu]d of
"

our

Shanri

'*

with

"

"

from the Wa*Qnainn" property

The result

105

CHAPTER
RETURN An
*' *'

Vn.
TO WTHARA. Heri and his companions
"

^Death of Sadi ben ivory shauri El Hakim and I Purchasing ivory"

"

return

to M'thar^" A

night

CONTENTS.

xi

PAOB

in the q"en" QecngeiD" The Wa*M*thaia at their old trioks" Betom refbse to retom to of the ScnuJIs from Ghaiyu ^They
"

Embe"

I interaew

an

elephant

123

CHAPTER
THE 8TAMT FOR THE

Vm.
WA80

NYIRO.

Some

experi^ceswith elephantsI am made a from Mthara" some A toilblood-brother of Eoromo'fr" Departure

"

of El Haldm's
march

"

^A boffiJo-hmit" The
"

buffalo camp"

Accomit

of
141

Dr.

Kolb's death

^An nnsoccessfol lioo-hmit"

a

Apprehension

and

of pmiishment

deserter

CHAPTER
JOURNEY
DOWN THE

DL
WA80 NYIRO.

Arrival at the Waso

Nyiro" The
on
"

heap**"The
rhino
on

camp

Camp"^'nie "'dnder fire Scarcity of game" Huiting a

"'

Green

mole-back

159

CHAPTER
RETURN

X.
*"

TO
""

THE

GREEN

CAMPr

The

"Swamp
Failure
to

Camp
obtam

Beaxriafhldimate
salt at
"

of the Waso
Beset

Nyiro"
decide
"

N^gomba"

by

No midg^"

signsof the
to retrace
onr

Bendili

^Nor of the Wandorobbo" ^An

We

steps
"

in rhinoceros-shooting object-lesson
more

The

"Green

Camp

"once

174

CHAPTER
DOWN THE

XI.
NYIRO ONCE MORE. "Green

WASO

We

send

to

M'thara for of the with

men

Sport at the guides"

sent
"

Camp**"
"

Non-retom safe return

river"

to

guides Desertion of the gnides" We

^We

Our anxiety Their continue our march down the M*thara

"

push

on"

Bad

country-

CONTENTS.
FAQK

No

game"
"

We

meet
our

some

of the Somalia
"

men"

News
the

of the 190

Bend]]] land"

^Lobb of

camels

In

sight of

"promised

CHAPTER
IN

XIL
ENCAMPMENT.

THE

BENDILI

Narrow

a nd from Arriral the a Borkeneji python" escape among Bendili" No ivory" Baying "t-tai]ed sheepinstead" Massacre of the Somalis portersby the Wa'embe Consternation of
"

Ismail Bobli" His letter to Nairobi

206

CHAPTER
THE BENDILI AND

Xni.
BUBKENEJL

The

of the ^The incident BorkenejiTheir qaarrelsome disposition ^Their O rnaments The Bendili Clothing" spear" appearance ntensiW" Morals and manners ^Household "Weapons
"

"

"

"

"

221

CHAPTER
THE 8EABCH FOB

XIV.
LOBIAN.

Exchangingpresentswith the Bendili" El Hakim scorpion^We start for Lorian without goidee
" "

bitten
"

by
"

^Zebra ^Desolate

with rhinoceros character of the country"Difficulties We reach the limit of of our men to proceed" Unwillingness

Mr. Chanler*s journey ^No

"

of Lorian signs

244

CHAPTER
BETUBN An
FBOM THE

XV.
LOBIAN
JOUBNET,

under difficulties^We rest" Photography interrupted night^s Stillno signs Sad end of Lorian go further down stream ** of Spot the puppy" Our men refuse to go further" Preparations for the return journey ^Reasons for our Mure to reach Lorian Return to our RendiH camp Somalis think of going
" " "

"

"

"

"

north to Marsabit decline" -The

scare

"

^Ismail asks

me

to

accompany

him

"

I
.

in Ismail*scamp"

for IMPthara Departure

259

CONTENTS.

xiii

CHAPTER
RETURN from Depaitnre TO

XVI.
X

M'THARA.

the

BendOi

settlement

"

^Ismail's porten desert

" "

The

Bani and the Somalia" Iraiaflwomided a"ay between ^Ismail'svacillation ^Another giraffe hunt hmit A giraffid the Waso Nyiro" Hippopotamus-shooting Journeyup
" " . .

"

275
.

CHAPTER
ARRIVAL AT

XVn.
M'THARA.

In

nght of Kenia

once

more"

El Hakim

and the lion

"

llie

"'

Green

Camp^ again"The baby waterbuck" El Hakim shoots an The buried buffalo horns destroyed elephant" by hynnas
"

Bad

news

from

M'thara

"

Plot to attack and

"

massacre
"

us

hatched

NDommaki*s by Bd-Mmiithu fidelityBaked foot ^Bain ^Arrival at our old camp at M'thara elephants
"
"

"

290

CHAPTER
AN

XVIII.
AN

ELEPHANT
an

HUNT

AND

ATTACK

ON

MUNITHU

We

dioot

Gordon Gumming on elephants" We send elephant" to buy food Baked elephant's to Mmiithu Song of Einyalar" foot againa fiedlnre ^The true recipe" Bain ^More rain ^The with the mutilated nose" The sheepdie from expoeore" man ^Bei-Mmuthn^s insolent message ChiggerB ^The El'Eonono from the Wa'Chanjei (George A message and I march to
" "
" "

"

"

"

"

attack Munithu

503

CHAPTER
FIGHT
AT MUNITHU

XIX.
DEPARTURE
arrows

AND

FROM

M*9HARA,
^The
the
"

Attack

on

Bei-Munithu's
"

village^Poisoned
"
"

"

of the

^Determined village^The retom march Aldknyu Karanjui George*s fall ^Betom to

" "

baming of the parsnit

M^thara

"

camp frx)m

"

^Interview with Bei-Munithu" M*thara" Bain

A
"

His

remorse
"

^Departure
"

trees" Whistling

lioness Bad Hynnas country lion" Increasing altitude Zebra

"

^A

"

....

319

xiv

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER
ROUND
NORTH AND WEST

XX.
KENIA

TO

THE

TANA.
TAQE

The

forestsof North Eenia ^Difficult primeTal country ^Rayinee Bain Moosoor"Nannki Cedar forests Open Ngare ^Ngare country" No game" Upper waters of the Waso Nyiro" Death
"
" " " "

"

of

"

Sheilock

Hoknes

""Witchcraft"
"

Zebra"

Rhinoceros"
"

more Sheep dying ofif" More rain The Aldkuyn once marches Attempt of the A*kikayato steal sheep"Difficult Bain again"Maranga at last ^The Tana impassable
"

"

....

335

CHAPTER
CONCLUSION.
FROM THE RIVER

XXI.
TANA TO

NAIRORI.

Arrival at the Tana

"

the Tana Crossing I drowned Eati giveBamathani a fright Peculiar Smallpox method of transporting goodsacross the river practised by the M*biri of the sheep Marangar-The safariacross" Disposal ^The ThikaThe Maragna once more We resume the march Farm" Nairobi Thika" The swamps" Kriger's river
"

^A visitto M*biri
"
"

"

"

"

"

"

"

351

INDEX

365

LIST

OF

ILLUSTRATIONS

PA6B

The
Tbe

Authob

FroniUpiece
Biter
hbab

Athi

Doeztto

Sabuk
c

;
Cbossiho Camp
ak

36

Affluent

of

the

Saoana

The

at

Maeanoa

;
BuTiHO

52

Food

at

Masahga
,

Gboup

of

A'kieutu

60

Gbovp

of

A'kikutu

Women

76

Eldebs

of

M'thaea

;il4
DnaTO
AHD

ViSELi

Ain)

Two

Followebs

The

Axjthob

maeino

Blood-bbothebhood

with

Eabama 148

The

"'Gb"en

Camp"

View

ok

the

Wabo

Ntibo

neab

"Swamp

Ca3ip" 178

Cuttiko

itp

Bbinocebos Waso

fob

Food

Paxjis

ok

the

Ntibo

204

HoBKS

OF

Bbikdled

Gkv,
Wab

ETa

220

Masai

Elmobak

ih

Abbat

242

HoBHS

OF

Buffalo,
OF

etc

258

PoBTBAir

Mb.

G.

H.

West

}
"

294

Bhotocebos

Shot

bt

Geobqe

OSBAXENTS

WOBK

BT

A*EIKUTU

WOMEK

316

xvi

LIST

OF

ILLUSTRA

TIONS.
PAGE

A'KiKuru Mount Mount

Wbafons
from the

328 North

Kexia.

Eenia

fbom

the

South-west

y
.

;336

MAP
Pabt
or

British

East

Africa
.

To foldo^

at end

of hook

ERRATA
For
,,

IN

MAP
Nabtuki. Naeok.

NoARi GuASO

Namuki
Narok

read Noaxe
yy

Waso

ERRATA
/or ftTgomba P"ge 186,line 16, ITgombc.'' read "doe KAthaia** north of lines "north of the 18, 17, /or 185, "
Jombeni
" "
"

"*

"

read

""

Mountains."
" "

" Waso." read Goaso line 19, 186, /or " " " Wargassc." 186,line 28,/or Gwargaess read

"
" "

Kanuna." 147, 148,/or Koromo " " 178, Unes 9, 10, 18,/or ITgomba read " " sassi read sassa." 188, line ^^for
"

"

"

read

"

"

N'gombe."
"

"

218,lines 80, 82,/or " 264,line 80,/or M'Nyanwea

"

Van

Hohnel
"

"

read
"

von

Hohnel."

reod

M^Nyamweii."

THROUGH GALLA-LAND

KIKUYU

TO

INTRODUCTION.

My the

fiiend, Geoige Heniy

latter part of the year
to

West,

and

myself
the

left Cairo

in

1899, with
and

intention

of proceeding

Uganda
in the

vii Zanzibar service

Mombasa.

Gleorgewas
of

an

engineer

of the and had

on

IrrigationDepartment
gained
the
a

the

Egyptian (Jovemment,
on

large and
below

Taried

experience
then both

the

new

works
in

Barrage

Cairo,

being concluded, and

locomotives the
sea

building, running, and repairing

As
a

and

launches. years, African in

profession I
1896 in

had order in the

lowed folto

for three South

in it leaving

join the British

the duaion native

Police, then
Mashonaland.
over

engaged
At

duing subcon-

rebellion
I
to

of hostilities
my

wandered

South I met I
was

Africa, and

finallyfound
A year

way

Egypt,
by

where

George
on

West way

later, accompanied

George,

my

southwards When

again^en Greorge
as

ratUs

for British left Cairo, Victoria there

East
our

Africa.
was

and

idea
as

to

go

up-

country
it
to

far

as

the Lake that

Nyanza^
be

we

considered
for
us

extremely probable
do in the

would
in

something

engineering line,either
of small

building launches

or

in

the construction We reached

harbour in due

works.
course,

Mombasa

and

from
B

there

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LA

ND.

proceededto
and is an the

Nairobi

by

the

railway then

in

course

of

construction to

Uganda.

Nairobi is 327 miles from the coast, both

the

of centre,being the head-qnarters important Administration

our

Civil

of

the

Protectorate

and
an

Uganda
which which and
on

On railway.
to accepted,

received arrival, George

to out

offer,

he
was

go up

the lake with from

steamer,

then

on

the way

England in sections,
it to rebuild it. I

his arrival at the lake with in Nairobi of time

as
'^

remained
In

course

I met
^

the personage

referred to

in

these pages

El
was

Hakim," whom
said to be time
one one a

I had known of the most

previously daringand unassuming

a

by repute. He
and resolute,

at the same

of the most dead shot,and

Englishmen in the Protectorate ;

charming
and the

companion.
and

He

had been

in shooting

Somaliland

of neighbourhood Lake

four years, Budolph for the previous stories told of his prowess among

many

were

the

and other elephant

It
was was

biggame.
that therefore, pleasure, I found
we soon

with
to

sincere
him

able

do

and sundry small services,

In

became the

fast Mends. He in fact

"

appearance
no was means

he
a on

was

nothing out
"

of

common.

was

by
it

big man
closer

^rather the

reverse,

and

only

acquaintance
He

that his
He
was a

impressedone. personality striking

dark

had
man

hair and and

and eyes,

an

nose. aquiline

of many

varied attainments.

a Primarily

member other

of the medical
were
a

his opinions on profession,

A very

most

subjects

listened to with respect clear and

manner impartial never

precise impress

had he speaker, under anything his hearers.

of

reviewing

discussion which

failed to

"

"The Anglicey

Doctor."

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

Lake Land In Teleld

memorable his Baringo dmiiig in 1885. 1887-1888

yon a

Masai through journey

Samuel Ck)unt nobleman, Hungarian

yon

Czeck,! accompaniedby Lieutenant Ludwig

of

Hohnel,

the

ImperialAustrian
Count Stephanie.

Nayy,
the

undertook

the

stupendousjourney which
Lakes

resulted in

discoyery of

Budolph and

his journey on Teleki, North-West in point

yon

north,crossed the Waso

Kenia
two
or
near

Nyiro

at

its source, march days'

years

while Lieutenant

Hohnel

went

three few

stillfurther down-stream.

later,in

1892-1893, Professor J. W.

of the Natural D.Sc., Gregory,

History Museum,

South

remarkable a made, single-handed, Kensington, Lake and Baringo Mount

journey to
of almost

Eenia,and in the teeth

the western

ascended dif"culties, insuperable mountain At the Mr. WiUiam and climbed the
same

face of that

peak.
Teleki's

in the latterpartof 1892, an American, time, Aster

Chanler, accompaniedby Count

yon

Lieutenant companion and chronicler.

"rom
a

Hohnel, started
made

in point Formosa

Bay

on

the East Coast,and Biyer to North-East and Budolph,

his way

the along

course

of Tana
to Lake

Eenia,

later to intending He and

go

on

thence northward. the reports of

his

companion,deceiyed by
extensiye

which led them the natiyes, itself into emptied of the

an

to belieye that the Waso

Nyiro

and fired by the idea lake,

of possible discoyery

another great AMcan

lake,made
a

their way

down

to

the

Waso

Nyiro, and after

fearful

reached march, enduringthe greatesthardships, eyentually Lorian. To

more

their great than

a

it disappointment,
and

proyed
back
yon

to

be

nothing

swamp,

theyturned

without

A it. examining

few weeks

Lieutenant later.

Hohnel,
sent down

been haying

was seriously injured by a rhinoceros,

INTRODUCTION. to the

oC coast,his life beingdespaired

deserted him ia
a

afterwards Shortly returned to

Hr.

Cihanler^s men

body,and
to
a

the coast

his jonmey also, thus bringing

a

premature
a

condnsion;

much-to-be-r^retted ending
was

to

well-

expedition. plannedand well-eqmpped

As Mr. Chanlar A" H. Neumann
to returning

the coast Neumann

he met

Mr.

coming
in

up.

Mr.

the spent the

of 1893 greaterpart

in shooting elephants
to
a

Loroghi
He also

Mountains, after going north

crossed the Eenia. Waso

Lake

RudolpL

Nyiro
Mr.
was

at

north-east Mount of poiut

During the
to

time he

Neumann

was

in the shooting vidts periodical

to

Mountains Loroghi

to make obliged

M'thara,in North-East Eenia, in order

on

buy

food from

and l^e natives, German

Dr.

one
was

such excursion he met North exploring Eenia

An

Dr.

Eolb, a

who scientist, Eolb ascended

to

Eenia. the

Mount

from

north,and
of his

then
ascent
''

returned of the

Europe.
is

account interesting

mountain

publishedin

Dr.

Petermann's

(42 Band, 1896). Dr. Eolb Mitteilungen''

Eenia

then returned
was

to

in order to contiuue his observations, but he

l olled unfortunately north of M'thara.

by

rhinoceros

couple of marches
Ghanler's the
mencement coman

with the exception of Mr. Lorian, therefore, hurried

visit, was
of
our

practically unexplored. At
El trip. of Hakim

if that, proposed should

opportunityoccurred
information. As

Lorian, we visiting
to
an

take

and endeavour advantageof it, will be seen, result

a

Mr. supplement

Chanler's

did present opportunity this account of

our

itself with what

of perusal

will disclose. expedition

CHAPTER

PBEFABATI0N8

AND

START.

Engaging
and
"

porters

"

Characteristics
"

of

Swahili, goods
of
"

Wa'Nyamwezi,
Proyisions
"

and ^Arms

Wa'Eamba

porters

Selecting Monipara
List
of
"

trade
Sketch

ammunition"

The

some

principal porters
"

^Personal

servants"

trade
to

goods

taken

the ^Distribnting

loads"

Befosal the
"

of the natiyes

Qoyemment
"

registerour
Gibbons' Farm
" "

porters" Beported
"

of hostility Somali

^Finley and
to

disaster

Start
a

of

the

safiEiris We
near

moye

Eriger's

I fall into
start.

game-

pit" Camp
One of the

Kriger's Farm-^Visitors

^The

most

important
is
a

items

in

the

organization
of the

of
men.

"safiEtri''

(caravan)
ours was

the
task

judicious
that gave said
to

selection
us

Choosing
vexation the had better
a

much

trouble

and

of

spirit.

El
were

Hakim hard of the

that

for all-roimd

ness usefulthat
we

Wa'kamba form backbone

were

beat, and

thought
them^ and
as,

the

bulk

safari firom

stiflTen

it with

of Swahilis
very

and
men

Wa'Nyamwezi,
when the
an

though

the
the be

Wa'kamba

good

well
natives

handled, ia
it would
from
a

unlikely
advisable tribe" and time
men

event
to

of

hostilities them
we

with with

strengthen
To that that
very
a

addition
to

the

lustier Swahili
at
two

end number

proposed
of but
sent
men

engage

dozen

half
were

Wa'NyamwezL having
them secured the

Porters
one
or

that

scarce;
we

good
to

as

nucleus,
any

into

bazaar find

at

Nairobi wanted

bring

us

other

they

could

who

employment.
6

PREPARATIONS

AND

START.

The
coasts.

SwahiliB

are

natiyes of Zanzibar of mixed

"

and
"

the

adjacent

They
the

are

mixed ^very

descent,being

mainly
masters.

of various slaves native and their Arab ofTspiing

were a race originally

They

of

but since slaves,

more

the abolition of

they have slavery they

to
now

become

and
a

more

and independent,
race superior

consider

themselves

very

indeed.

They call themselves ''Wangwana"

all other natives
as

and allude (freemen),

"Washenzi"
at times very

(savages). They by
and

are

and conceited, incorrigibly But

and insolent vicious, disobedient, lazy,

a

once

you

have,

their respect, of fimmess, gained judicious display they,

course some

with of

exceptions, prove

to be

cheerfal, hardy,

of intelligent great hardships people, capable enduring

a so

without
even

too

ostentatious
as

of display puns
an

will and ill-feeling,

go

far

to fnake bad

in the vernacular upon

occurrence

their

empty

stomachs, the latter

away

not

at all

safari in work infrequent

from the main

are a

roads.

The
and

Wa'kamba,
of small
women

on

the whole,

cheerful tribe, very wonderful of powers calculated

though
of

physique, possess
with equally
the

endurance, the
that
some our

men.

We

men,

in addition to their 60-lb. load, carried

another
so

30 lbs. weightin

and ammunition; effects, rifle, personal

90
a

that
or

altogether they carried

sometimes
on

lbs. dead

weight
at
a

during one
atalL The

two

marches

day for

weeks
on

often stretch,

insufficientfood, and sometimes

no

food

Wa'Nyamwezi
the

are,

in

my
or

opinion, reallymore
Wa'kamba. and

reliable than either the Swahili from

They
east us,

come

U'Nyamwezi, Kyanza.
them

country south
had
six of them

of

Lake
we

Victoria

We

with

and

alwaysfound

and willing, and steady good porters,

men

less very

trouble than any other

in the safim.

They

were

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.
were

much filanniwh, keepingvery and and seldom orderly,

some

to

themselves,but

quiet they
a

time at and if any complained ;

cause

imaginedtheyhad
deputationand
a

for

formed they complaint,

on

and their stated case, quietly

"

receiving
to to

reply

as

fire their to r eturned quietly

fix)m different ^very

me

the

SwahilL noisy, argumentative virtues of both

They appear
and

the possess without

on

the Swahilis

Wa'kamba when

their vices. The

was a

Wa'kamba's

weakness great

the march

'ptfMikatUfor could

from stealing their hands noble

the native
on,

whatever villages

they

lay

being

thereto by encouraged while not

the brave and

our

who, Swahilis,

risk to wishing

displeasure by openlydoing
afterwards appropriating did not if we : that is, spoil

likewise, uiged on

the

simpleWa'kamba,

the lion's share of the hear of the We and had

occurrence

and confiscate the

our

ourselves. spoil
of

pitched

tent

justoutside the town

our

Nairobi,

to proceeded

get together
the number

loads of camp
on an

equipment,
to be

trade such

and provisions: no goods,

as

task easy

expedition

where ours,

of carriers was

strictly

limited.
In the firstplace, we

doth, brass wire,iron wire, required

Provisions also
a

to buy food for the and various beads,in sufficientquantities

safari for at troublesome deal upon s^g^"

was a

least six months.

were

item, as, althoughwe

to expected

live

great

native food,we

such things as tea,coffee, required

also medicines.
w"t to take.

'W^j condiments, and

to

The

question

not what

take,but what

However, after
several

great amount

of discussion, over lasting

more question our men or

settled the food

we days, less satisfetctorily. were

During
into camp service with

this time numbers

us as

officers recruiting

bringing
to take

of

who, they said,wanted

porters. Judging firom the specimens

PREPARATIONS

AND

START.

submitted the

fcnrour

seemed approval, they the blind.

to have

raked oat trouble

we

halt,the lame, and

we

After much

selected those whom

gave

to be thought likely

and suitable,

them

an

advance

of

few rupees

as

fee, retaining

with

which, after the

manner

of their kind, th^ last longoigie.

immediately
and

to the bazaar repaired

txx

There ammunition

was

also the
to be

importantquestionof
been
we

arms

considered, we as, although

have

did not expect

to

it would fighting, any

foolish in the extreme intended

have entered such districtsas

means adequate

without visiting

of self-defence. We

concluded the twen^*

on
a

five Snider would

rifles used

by El Hakim
we

previous trip
little

siifiKce.

Unfortunately,
as

could

get very

ammunition
was

for them,
scarce

at

that time
reason

Snider ammunition

vesry

in

Nairobi,one
a

being that
caravan

it had under

been Jamah

bought

very

largely by

big Somali

Mahomet
for the

and IsmaU
same

Bobli,which

set out

before just

bound us,

districts.
or

five We, however, eventually procured rounds:

a

six hundred

amount ridiculously inadequate

were

the considering
we

distance we
away. With

to travel and

the time

be to expected

r^ard

to

our

armament.
weapons
a

El Hakim

by possessed
an

far the best

battery.His
and

consisted of

8-bore

Paradox,a '577 Express, and

all
as

*460 Express, single-barrelled

The

by
the

Holland

Holland.

8-bore
was

we

never

used,

-577 Express did all that

would when
never

requiredperfectly
been
a

The 8-bore satisfeu^torily. weapon for camp defence camp

was

have

magnificent
slugs,but
The
as

loaded

with

our fortunately

and attacked, directly

never arose.

the necessity for using it consequently '557

was

the best all-round weapon

for

big game

such

lo

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.
never

and elephant, rhinoceros, work and cleanly

and buffido,

fedled to do its
was

Its perfectly.

only disadvantage

that

it burnt black
if I
one ever

and powder, another *450

or

I consequentlyshould be

inclined,

made
new

the to expedition, give *500

to preference

of the

smokeless burning Expresses handled

one

powder, though,as
I cannot
was

I have

not

of the latter, '450

to

speak with

El certainty. weapon, ^that of

Hakim's

Express
same

a really

wonderful
"

though open
black burning

the

as the *557 objection

was

powder.
I
ever a

It

one certainly

of the best all-round weapons soft-skinned game. It

was

saw

for

bringingdown
set very

singleThe
a

barreUed,top-lever, hammer-gun, with flat top rib.

were sights

low

down

on

the

rib,to my

mind

it seems as great advantage, of accidental canting.Its lead with

was bullets, a

to me

to minimize

the chances

hardened with penetrative power,

seen

I have surprising.

it dropa rhinoceros

and yet the same projectil throughthe brain, would kill small antelope like Grant's or Waller's gazelles and without mangling them or goingright tearing through bullet
a

is hole which in its the skin, great spoiling egress, thereby

the greatcause bullets I

are

of

t he complaint against *303 when

expanding

used.
-303 built
me

myself carried a
weapon.

cent magnifiby Bigby,a really

a

I took with

of quantity every

make

of *303

from copper-tubed to Jeffi^s expanding bullets, After repeated trials I found that the Dum-Dum splits. the most gave
no

results,since when satisfactory

''

I have

used

other."
I

also

carried

supply of

"303

solid bullets,both

for

defensive operations. For possible I carried an ordinary Martinior giraffe, rhinoceros, buf"lo,
which rifle, Henry military answered the purpose

and elephants

for

admirably.

12

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

to peculiarities, except a disposition

back

up

Sadi in any Abdullah ben

mischief. Asmani

The

same

to applies description

and Asmani Sowah

a

ben Selim.
was a

ben C!oja
to be almost

thick-set short,
was so a one

man,

so

short

as

dwarf.
men,
so

He
much
"

of the most

and cheery

of willing order him

more

onr

that it was

to quitea pleasure

to do

anything
On
a
"

I we pleasure,fear,

appreciated
rwn

than he did. it with

receivingan

order he would
"

*to

execute master

")"that

bwana cheery Ay wallah, did one good to hear.

was
on

("Please God,
t.e.

Besarse ben Shokar who porter,

sets the

our

''

Kiongori,"
and
on

the

leading flag
order

step

the march

carries the

of the safari
"

He, also,always ran

fact ; then,when than him
a

an receiving

^ran

out of
a

in sight,
man

beyond our
was

pelled ken, com-

weaker
never

himself to do what

wanted.

I could

cure

of the habit of

on sleeping

sentry

duty, thoughmany
or strap, a

time I have chased him

with

stirruphim

while or anything when, camp-stool, making handy

had found of the I sentries, surprise inspections

fistst

asleep.He
after for
a

was

valuable, however, in that he

was a

was

the wit of

the safistrL He

and perfect gas-bag,

often
we

duringand
blessed him

long and
at our

march waterless probably

men

causingthe
Sulieman
was

to

laugh by

some

harmless

waggish
gave
us

remark

expense.
a

who brute, big,hulking, sulky

near

of deal great

and finally deserted trouble, his rifle, and also

Lorian,

to forgetting

return

ting cutabsent-mindedly

open my

a few bag and abstracting

small but necessary also of

a

articles. Docere sullen

us.

ben Ali, his chum,

was

was

slow and

disposition, thoughhe

careful not
him

to exhibit it to

When

disturbed anything

he went

forthwith and

took it out of the unfortunate Wa'kamba.

PREPARATIONS

AND

START.

13

Of the WaluuDaba of two

memory.
was a or

I do not remember

the namee,

except
on

three who
The

themselves partdcularly impressed ITkamba

was

my

head

known like

as
a

Malwa.

He

idiot who worked cheerful, stnpid seemed

to

horse, thon^^
Mlcamba,

he

never

get any
when

"*

forwarder." Another

named

Macow, afterwards succeeded him

of the Wa'kamba

in the headman-

ship
he

Malwa Macow

was

deposedfor

some

cdbnce. seemed

We
to

nick-named

''Sherlock

as Holmes,**

spend

most

of his leisnre hours

comers

prowling
the
true

round

the

camp,

round peering

with

melodrama-detective-Hawkshaw browed thickly

to mysteriously
some

in his expression

deep-set,

eyes.
our

He

would
in

often creep
a

and silently
municate whispercomon

tent, and

subdued had

which incident trifling

a

occuned

the

march

for then, without waiting

reply,steal as silently
mention

and

mysteriously away.
I must
not

conclude

this

without chapter

some was

of
our some

our

servants. personal

Eirst and foremost Bamathani service

man as

Bamathani,
been already and

head

cook and months

a

factotum. in my

had cook

three

personal
him.

servant, and

most

capable

I had

found

My
sent

with him began one acquaintance

my

morning when
he did not

I had

to the sohmi cook, before breakfast, eta bread,vegetables,

(nativebazaar)to
return

buy

As
some

I went I

outside to the cook-house in should

anxietyas
native
cook
was

to whether servants
were

get any

breakfast.
me

Several
my

there, and

they informed
most

still in the be back tUl

bazaar,very drunk, and

noon.

would likely and

not

Of course, I
a

was

angry,

proceeded to show
very
was

it,

when upon

voice, speakingin soothing

ear.

fair

fell English,

my

I Turning sharply,

confronted

by

dressed in khaki. a good-looking native, neatly stranger,

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

"Shall

cook

breakfast

for

master?''

he

inquired

softly.
"

Are you able ?

"

said I.

"

Yes, master."
do so,"I
as

"Then

said;and

went
as

back to my

quartersand
under the

waited with

much

patience
an

I could command

circumstances.
In
a

quarter
he
"

of

hour
a

or

so

Bamathani

"

^forit

was

indeed

in brought
as

well-cooked temptingly
a

fast, breaksame
as so

such

was

almost

strangerto,and

at

the
me

time hinted that he

had
cook

attached permanently
turned up
an was

his

employer. My
drunk very and

own

hour

or

later,

and he abusive, very

fired incontinently

out, Bamathani
Ramathani Juma
was an

beingestablished in
had two M'kamba.
His upper

his stead.

Juma boys as assistants, teeth of

were

and Bilali

filedto
we

sharp
wards after-

most forming points,

useful weapons

as offence,

had

occasion to notice.
was an

Bilali
was

and M'SIikuyu,
nervous

a our

very

willing boy.

He

alwaysvery

when

in

and used to presence, table for meals.

or

tremble

when excessively

the laying

When
on

for gently reproved he would table,

to

puttingdirtyknives
quite ludicrous
of his would

cups

the

grow

in his hurried efforts

clean the articles mentioned, and with the hem

spit on
a

them

and rub them

to eagerness

robe with dirty

pathetic
turned

that disarmed please

and indignation

away

wrath.
our

secured Having finally and up

men,

it onlyremained

to

pack
trade
as

distribute the loads of We

trade equipment,provisions,
a

etc. goods,

did not take such done

of large quantity

goods
Hakim

as

we

should have
a

in the

ordinary course,
a

"1

had already

in charge of quantity large

chief in

PREPARATIONS

AND

START.

15

North Kenia. of what

we

The

is a list, from following compiled

us
:
"

memoiy,

took with

Ukouo
2 loads Merikan! 2 2 1

(Cloth),

(Americansheeting). kisnto (red and blue check clothfl). ,y blanket! (blankets, coloured). " load varions, including gomti(a coarse white doth). laissoes (coloured cloths worn by women). kekois (coloured cloth worn by men).
"

Uzi Wa

Madini

(Wisb).

/ seninge No. (iron wire, 2

or

3 loads of

\masango
\ masango
UsHANOA / sem 8em

6). No. 6). wire, (copper No. 6). n^eupe(brass wire,

(Beads).

or

3 loads of

red Masai beads). (small Masai (white beads). |sembaj white opaque beads). \ ukuta (large Venetian beads.
were

2 loads of mixed

When line on the

all the loads

and ground;
we

packed, they the men in,we falling

to him.

were

in placed

told off each

to the load

best suited thought

men

To the Swahilis,
to
on straggle

being good marching

road,we
and

and

not

apt

the

our tents,blankets, equipment, personal apportioned table utensils. To the Wa'Nyamwezi we entrusted the

ammunition

and

Walsamba and the to provisions,

we

the gave
our

etc. loads of wire,beads, cloth,

own

Haying

settled this to

and ordered considered the matter settled, we satisfaction,

man

each

to take up his load.

Then
us

the trouble

b^an.

First

one

man
**

would

come

to

and ask if his load might be

man

changedfor

that other one," been

while the would

to whom

''that other one"' had excited

given
to

with much object

and forcible gesticulation

come

alteration to language any

and would made, being

i6
OS

THROUGH
to decide the case.

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

We

would
not

then arbitrate, thoughnine

times out of ten men's loads

or

they did

abide

by
or

our

decision. Other had

thing some-

were

or awkward, bulky,

or heavy,

other the matter

a

with time

them
we

which had

they wanted
with We

that in so rectified,

short

fortymen

for clamouring forty grievances matters

an

acyustment

simplifie

by referring every

one

to

Jumbi, and havingbeaten

less amicably

to retreat in^orious

our

tents, solaced ourselves with

more or

till eatable was everything something settled.

is Nothing
races more

characteristic of the difference in the in which

than the way

they carry
their

their loads.
to the open

The
main
some

Swahilis and

Wa'Kyamwezi, being used

The

roads,carry their loads boldlyon

cases,
on

heads,or,
on

in

their shoulders.

Wa'kamba^
own

the other hand,

in the

narrow

junglepathsof their
reason

possib district find it im-

to carry vegetation, overhanging a load that way. They tie it up instead with a long broad of hide,leaving which is passedround the a large strip loop,

by

of the

forehead from behind,thus

in the small becomes

the load,which supporting When the strain

on

rests

of the back.

the neck

lean which forward, tiring they

affords considerable
upon

load t he relief, by allowing

There
were were

to rest stillmore

the back.

also six loaded

these
a

the propertyof El Hakim, and donkeys, A welL will 120 as lbs., donkey up carry men's loads.
to
no

equalto weight
we Finally,

two

had

our register portersat the Sub-Corn-

missioner^s office, as that

safaris are has

allowed to proceed until

important ceremony
has

been

concluded,and
In
our

the
case,

Government

pouched the attendant fees.

a

to be however,there appeared

certain amount

of

difficult
an

On

delivering my

I was application

told to wait for

PREPARATIONS

AND

START.

17

answer^

which

I should

receive in the
a

course

of the

day.

I waited.

In the afternoon
was

most

official important-looking
Nubian

docmnent and

to brought

me

by

fear In orderly. breathed

a

I trembling

opened the
our

and envelope,

felt hearthad

sighof relief when

tefiised to

I found

that the Gk"vemment

as

roister

giving porters, visiting

therefore mind
we
were

their

reason

that

the districts we

intended

unsettled and, in should

their opinion, unsafe,and

at
our own

proceedonly
we

nsk.

We

did not

that,and

saved the

fee registration rdiised to

anyhow.

The

Gbvemment

had

already

Somali's and the porters, roister

they intimated,
difference in

t hat rightly, veiy

our

they could

not

make

any

case.

Jamah

Mahomet, who
off that

was

in command had

of the Somali Ismail Bobli Noor

started safari,
as

day.
week
same

He
A

with him

second

in

command.
a

smaller

under safoii,

Adam, had started

intended

Both previously.

these safaris We
were

the visiting
a

districtsas ourselves.
more

fated to hear
our

deal great

of them

before the end

of

trip.
In the I evening received
a

note private

from
were

one

of the

Government have
a

me officers, informing

that

we

to likely

certain amount without

of trouble in

across getting

the river

Thika-Thika
were

the as fighting,

natives of that district

us

very

and turbulent, dted the

advising

to

go

another

way.

My

informant
of
a

case

of Messrs.

Finlayand

Gibbons

by way

cheerful moral.
two

Emlay and Gibbons were the s omewhere to trading had forty and men or so,
when A'kikuyu,

Englishmenwho
for trading

had

been

north of the Tana

were

Biver.

They
the

ivorywith

they

were

suddenly and
''

treacherously

attacked and driven into their

boma

"

and (thornstockade),
0

/Gpogle

i8

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

CALLA-LAND.

there
saw no

six quite b y besieged

I later^
can

thousand

natives.

From

what
were

quite believe that their numbers

and
in again the

by

means

During a nightattack, Finlaywas exaggerated.

back, the wound
.

hand the through speared in the

to

back,however, not proving They managed dangerous.

a

get

message

through to

and Nairobi,

some

Nubian

troops

were

sent to their

which task they successfull relief,

It with the greatestdifSculty. thoughonly accomplished,

was

not

till six weeks

was

after he received the woimd

that

Finlay

able to obtain medical

and by that assistance,

time the tendons of his hand

was

had united
was

wrongly,
a

so

that it

rendered

useless. This permanently

men

nice

enlivening

to calculated story, encourage

who

were

out for setting

the

same

districts.

The

following day I received

from telegram
at the
so worn

George to by
rail

arrived that he had from say

at the foot of the to meet

Uganda

Kedong Camp,
up after his
same

Eikuyu Escarpment,
looked very thin and We

I went

him.

He

severe

attack of fever. and

we

returned to Nairobi the

camp.
an

evening,
away when

to our proceeded

"1

Hakim, who
about
two

was

turned arrived,

up

hour

and completed our later,

seven

party.
out.

He

had

been

to

Farm Eiiger's

miles

Messrs. who

Erigerand

"napp
a

were

American

missionaries of

had established

mission

station that distance out

towards Doenyo Sabuk, or Nairobi,

Chianjaw,as it is called
from the

by

the Wa'kamba. El

Hakim,
to

anxious to get being

our

men

away

that he influence native of the bazaar, arranged pernicious would that go

on on Eriger's early

the

and morning, following

in the and should later I follow George

day

with

the

and camp for the night near safari,

ingly AccordKriger's place.

on

he started early in the forenoon

the

following day.

20

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

box of matches. commenced nnaccustomed

to

After the firsthour I noticed that the and stagger and burdens,

men

lag
I had

behind
to be

with

their

lately
the

on continually

alert to prevent desertions. I numbered make

hour
sure

them
me

at

to intervals^

that
a

none

of them

had

given

the
men

but slip,

an

and

I missed three half after starting

with their

in spite of all my precautions. I shouted back into the loads, and the darkness, after a
men we me accompanying were men.

did the same,

an

and,

interval slight

relieved to hear After

a waiting

answering answering
fednt till it at
were
us

shout firom the

we

missing

few moments,

shouted
was

and again,

were

amazed

to find that the

shout

much
answers

fednter than before. We

grew

continued and
more

shouting,

but the

fainter gradually

they
on was an

died

away

I altogether.

could not
upon

understand
me.

but the solution gradually dawned first,

a
a

We

and large plain,

few

hundred

of the left to yards

our

huge belt
to

of forest, which
men

echoed
were

shouts to such
us

extent
as a

that the
our

who

for looking

were were

deceived

real
at

and position,
our

in their search
own. was a

following path
a light

rightanglesto
as

I could not and long very bush the fire,

fire to

guide them,
.

the grass

and dry,

I should

probablyhave
would
was

started been

consequences

of which
a

have

fore terrible. I there-

fired

gun,

and
over

answered the to plain

on

by
the

another

shot^

far away seemingly

men

the

the right Telling

I ordered path,

to sit down

and rest themselves

Jumbi

to follow me,

taking my and, after carefully

walk

bearings plain to

by compass,
It those my

started to

quickly

across

the

them. intercept
was

by no

means

across trotting pleasant experience,

in plains

the

pitchy blackness,with
boulders scattered

the grass up about

to

waist,and

huge

ready and

PREPARATIONS

AND

START.

21

willingto tripme up. I got very heated and quitennto Jombi reaaonaUjangry, and expiessedmy feelings very freely.I
natives
must
was

in the midst

of

violent diatribe

all against
I

and generally,

Swahili portersin commendable

me,

whioh particular, when patience,

admit

he bore with beneath

the

earth gave way

some

down precipitated in a heap at the apparently frightful abyss, landing

was

and

bottom, with all the breath knocked

there
for
a

out of my

body. I laid
to

little while, and

endeavoured

collect my
a

scattered fiumlties. Soon

I stood up, and

an a

struck

match,

and discovered that I had fallen into

8

old
cone,

about game-pit, with

a

feet

deep. It
at the

was

shaped like

small

opening at
I looked
a narrow were

the top, similar to the old-fitshioned (^MiMt. and shuddered floor, when
on

I realized what

squeak I might have had

the remains mouldering

for ; of
a

the centre

of the

floor

which stake, pointed the

had

been

in fixed upright originally I had fallen.

the earth floor on

where place ^Is

from

Bwana

(master)hurt?"
I

said the voice of Jumbi

somewhere I

in the black darkness above.

was

that replied

not

hurt, but that I could not get

lowered of his rifle,

out

without

Jumbi assistance; whereupon

a

and, to the accompanimentof

and hauled kicking, We
we me

vast

amount

scrambling
for whom

bodilyout.
near

were

by

this time very

as we

to the

men

were

searching,
the

could hear their voices raised in We and stopped

we

argument about
and

path.

called to them,
t o together

and presently joined they us, main We party.

our

all set off

joinmy
It

reached it without further

mishap,
hand of the

and resumed
was

march. interrupted dark indeed. I could

not
see

very
a

my

when

I held it

from feet of couple my

fiace. One

22

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.
over

men some

happeningto

remark

that he had been

the
van

path
as

I him before, immediately placed years

in the

him guide, threatening if he did not land

us

with all sorts of

at
our

painsand penalties
some

destination

time before

midnight.
I
was

anxious particularly and blankets,

to

I had as rejoinGeorge, would have

a

the tents,

food, and he
me.

very

time uninteresting with he It renewed

one

without
as our

We

marched, therefore,
that do the business.

vigour,
more

impromptu guide stated

would
we

thought didn't, though.

hour's march For

two

solid hours

groped blindly

belts of forest, across through wooded

we

and and down open spaces, up about eleven p.m., when

ravines,until somewhere
a

reached

very

laigeand terribly steep ravine,thickly

dense
a

clothed with could hear

water

trees, creepers, and

undergrowth. We
of

the

rushingnoise of

considerable volume

at the

bottom, and in the darkness it sounded

veiy,

down. fiar very

I halted at the top to consider whether

to

go

on

or

not, but the

appearance

of thought

for Geoige waitingpatiently

my

with supper

and

blankets made
on

me me

so

fortable uncom-

that I decided to We
down

push

if it took

all

night.

commenced thereupon my doubts

as

the difficult but descent,

halfway
in

to the

of the proceeding were advisability

one

set at rest completely

some

by

of the

men

down falling others

were

kind of
I

fitfrom

The over-fatigue.
to wait

little

so better,

decided reluctantly

for

before daylight
eat among
a

further. proceeding the multifarious

I tried to find

to something

and fortunately discovered loads, in with the

of piece

bread that had been thrown dry

at the last moment.

utensils cooking

devoured it, and, wrapping greedily

to

myselfin

my

endeavoured blankets,

sleepas

well

as

PREPARATIONS
was

AND

START.

23

A slopeof forty-five thought degrees. oonceming Geoige starack me justbefore I droppedoff to

on
a

able

which sleep,
to
men

comforted it

me

greatly.

**

knows Geoige

enough

go

in ^en

I thought "He rains," go

over

will leave the

with
a

the cattle, and and

I
a

to

and place Eiiger^s

have

hot supper

soft drew

bed, and all kinds of good

my blankets
more

and thingslike that," round when At the

I
me

closely

and

and felt quiteannoyed with him shivered,

of it. thought
we daylight

were

up

and

off

and, descending again, bottom, and continued

crossed the river ravine, On the way

at the
a

the marclt Swahilis

I shot

called guinea-fowl, and

a

by the

and "kanga,''
came

after

an

hour

half of

quick

I walking

with up

Geoige.
without food, blankets, night,
it had drizzled all
worse,

He
or

had

a passed

miserable
matters

fire, and, to make

on men a

night,
the tired

while he sat cattle. The that He

stone and who

kept watch
boma We
to

and ward
were

over
so

had

him accompanied
a

refused had to build they

very fire

cattle in. the keep

seemed
a

glad to

see

me.

at once

got

the tent made

put up,

made, and

the boma
In

and built,

soon

thingsmuch
and festive on

more

comfortable.

we fietct, got quitegay

the bread and

our

marmalade,washed

down

with

formed which tea, El We

as

breakfast. a bout Eriger's place, three he till days

was a

Hakim

was

at
or

mile distant.

had he had

to wait two
a

readyto
We

start,

lot of

business to transact. private

left all

the cattle except nine behind, under

sent the
more

charge;we Kriger^s
we

nine

back

as subsequently,

found

they were

trouble than theywere

In the

worth.
out to shoot at least, guinea-fowl ;
saw

eveningI
to

went

I intended

shoot

I but unfortunately guinea-fowl,

34

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

none.

I lost mjrself in the darkness,and could not find my

way

back to camp.

After

for about wandering

some

time, I
a

at last
a

spiedthe

flare of the camp that

on

fires, halfwayup
which I stood.

slope

mile away,

to opposite

I made

towards them,

fiowed small river the that entirely forgetting

at the foot of the to

slope. It
I

was

most

recalled unpleasantly and

my

memory
a

as

bank off the suddenlystepped

with plunged, I scrambled

waist splash, the up

deep into the

icywater.

Ugh
and
veiy

bank, and opposite

reached the camp

Hakim for El safely, myself. thoughfeeling very sorry Oeoige thoughtit a good joke. I thoughttheyhad a low
sense

of humour.
and following morningGreorge I sallied forth
on

On

the

intent. sport We
saw no

George carried the

'303. a nd the I shot-gun, all

on birds;but after an arduous stalk, creeping

fours

wet throughlong,
name

I secured grass,

is the local
meat
us was

for the hartebeeste

congonL Gongoni The C ohet). {Bvhalis

a

and much excellent,

El Hakim appreciated.

joined
and

in the

and Mr. Mr. afternoon, by Kriger accompanied

Mrs.

Knapp, who

wished

to

inspect

our

camp.

We

did the

honours with the greatest zest,knowing it would time for many

race.

be the last of
our

months

that

we

should

see

any

own

The

day

afterwards El Hakim
some

and and
our

I rode into Nairobi,

accompanied by

of the men,

broughtback
as we safiari,

twelve

for days'rations of m'chele (rice)

intended
to

decided the following and starting Eriger Enapp day.

come

with
a

us

on

little pleasure trip as

far
some over

as

Doenyo
800 feet 6000 feet

Sabuk,

bold, rounded

rising prominence,

above the level of the above

the summit plain,

being

the north. to about four days' sea-level, lying journey

CHAPTER

11.

FBOM

KBIQER8

TO

MAEANGA.

Off to

Doenyo

Sabnk"
"

Troubles
^Eaten

of tioks"

safiuri"

Oooige

takes with
a

bath"

The
"

Nairoln The We
08

Falb

by

My
Lions

argament
"

rtiSnooeroe Sabnk

Athi

Birer" Athi

Good
in

fiahing"
flood"
our

Camp
a

near

Doenyo
and open We

"

find the adien"

We
We

build
cross

raft" the

Kriger
Athi^I

Knapp
a

bid of

Failiire

(tf the The

raft"

box

c^girs" Grossing
retch
"

Thika-Thika"
diUmr
to

Bad the

country"

nnexpectedlty
the

the Tana"

Maragoa"

Oroesing

Maragna

In

Eikaynland.

KsiGSB and nther

at

and
2
a

Knapp
we

joined
set
oat
on

us

on

the

morning

of

June
It

7th,
was

p.m.

onr

eventful
as so

journey.

rash

at

the
was

last moment,

many foresee

things required everything. days,

as

acd'nstment.
8t(^yped behind

It

impossible whipper-in
of for the

to

as

the
sort

first few
at

the

porters required something

of
a

the

commencement

in order safeuri, fell out first

to

prevent

desertions, and

also

to

assist

those who
On the
me

from

fatigue.
had
;
a

day

lot
were

of

trouble.
not

The
to

donkeys
loads,
the

annoyed
and

considerably

they

used

their
not

consequently

they kept
constant
were

slipping (the loads,

donkeys),requiring
The in the

attention. very soft after

one or

porters

also

their

long

carouse

bazaar, and
his

every

few

yards by
25

another saints in

sat

down
own

beside

load, and

swore,

all

the

his

26

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

would and could he that calendar, not, particnlar It farther. step otherwise.
was

not, go

my

duty unpleasant
that was,
an on

to

them persuade

The consequence
a

the

eveningoi the
others, quite
and ready all

firstday I got into tired out. It

was

camp

hour

after the

dinner find to delightful

I waiting.To misquote Kipling, very

''didn't

keep it waiting

long."
next

The

morning
It

we

crossed

one

of the tributaries of from bank

to

the Athi

Biver.

was

thickly overgrown
we were

bank with papyrus

to cut
a

and reeds, The

obliged consequently
and unloaded, in
wet

passage.

donkeys had also to be

We

their loads carried

across.

got

up
our

to the knees

the cold, slimywater, which did not add to

comfort.

We

passed a rhinoceros
him
as we were

on

the

road,but did
of meat.
an

not

to shoot stop

not in want

another river Crossing passage

to
our

hour

or

so

we later,

made

the
up
our

easily by

the

of wading across simpleexpedient

or

to undress middles,without troubling

take

boots

who ofT;all except Greorge,

was

mule. the riding wet!" get

we

He

declared that he "wasn't cuckoos" "silly He

if
we

going

to
was

could be

liked! he

"going
the mule
recover

to ride across."

attempted it; halfway across George

and the
mule

into slipped

to deep water, plunged furiously

broke the itself,

a

and girth,

made

dive glorious

into ten feet of water. together in

I succeeded in, Jumping

of hold head while the mule's getting In

scrambled George time

and Eriger

with cold. ashore, gasping

the

mean

Knapp with

El Hakim

had got some

see

distance

ahead, leaving
across.
a

George and myself to

we

the safari
we

safely
a

When swamp,

reached the other side

we

found

ourselves in

throughwhich
firm

had to wade

for over

ing mile before reacha

ground. Then

struck in the porters

body,saying

28

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

we

left

Nairobi,the result of his recent

When the tents
were we stnick,
was now was

severe

illness in

Uganda.
to
more

wards headed due northshow to b^^inning about twenty miles

Doenyo Sabuk, which

on clearly
we

up

the horizon.

It

and distant, would take

calculated that two round it

we

further days'

marching

us

Soon used
a

after

started

Enapp

shot

He guinea-fowL

horrible Winchester repeating a shot-gun, perfectly he

was

of which contrivance,
were

very

proud.

When
a

the cartridges collection

it clanked ejected

and rattled like sack.

a

of scrap iron

beingshaken
we

in

During

that march

had

with time maddening

the
were

infested. They with which the Athi plains are ticks, red ticks, similar flat, large,
to those I have seen to
our

in Shodesia

(Ixodes ?). They dung plvmJbeus

like dozen
us

and clothing persons

not

limpetsto
or

rock.

We
so

should

have

minded

two, at least not

much, but they swarmed

halted every few
soon
a as

on

in thousands. literally brushed

us

We

moments
we

while Bamathani

down, but,so
we

were

of cleared them, comparatively

from

pickedup
and badly,

fresh batch them taking

the

longgrass. They
a

bite very

as by and large,

sailor would
as

were they say,

very

powerful

and

vermin; almost vigorous

them. hour after
we

we as the language vigorous

wasted upon About

an

started

we

sighted
a

rhinoceros

fSast asleep in the grass, about

three hundred him

"

yardsdown
"

wind. the

and (George
were
a

I examined mile ahead

with the binoculars

as we were on. a

others

and

not

out

lookingfor rhinoceros proceededbarely

from shouting
a

just then, we
a us

passed
mile
to

We

had

of quarter
rear

when look

confused The

the

caused

round.

rhinoceros sleeping

had

to impress wakened, and proceeded

FROM

KRIGERS

TO

MARANGA.

29

tiie "eu^ upon

the safiari

Having
and when

winded

the
I

men

he

diaiged them, incontinently

back
we saw

Geoigeand
had the

glanced
and

the
our

backwards nngainlybrute trotting

forwards

among

loads, which

the

men

hurriedly landscape.
as

dropped while
It
was

for scattered dear lifeover they

as

certainly very awkward,

loth to do,
all my

it looked very much

if I shonld have to go back and I

was

which,I slayit,
was

will confess, distance

very

as

Bamathani

some

ahead with

ammunition. spare
a

The

of my mftgftgi"ft

'303 contained bullets. felt

I

only half

dozen

with cartridges,
a

soft-nosed

waited diplomatically
move; but it

while to

see

if the brute

to disposed

was

apparently perfectly
stood
over

satisfied with the deserted

its immediate loads

and surroundings,

snortingand donkeys,which

stamping and looking

were came
rear

ugly. exceedingly
The

cattle and
w^re

under
as near

Jumbi's
as

charge,

also

coming

up.

Jumbi

he

and dared,

then halted,and
Bwana

waited in the
to

tiU it should ''kifaru"

please the
away. The
a

(meaning me)

drive the

rest of the

portershavingscuttled

to what

they
a

considered

sat down safe distance,

to await events

with

stolid composure
I upon
so

bom the

of utter

irresponsibility.
was

under felt,
me

that it circumstances,

incumbent

to do

it being so evidently something, expected; towards

as

I advanced

the

not rhinoceros,

without

some

inward
to

I trepidation,

distrusted greatly

the *303.

ing Walk-

within

of fifty yards the

where it was spot

as

stamping
that

defiance, I shouted at it,and said shoo t

will drive tiiem away.
80,

sometimes

It did not

move

this beast, however,

mentallydonning the
a

black cap, I took careful aim, and If it was undecided before

planked
the

buUet
soon

in his shoulder !

beast

made

its mind up

then,and,jumping round

30

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO at

GALLA-LAND.

like
and

cat^came

for me straight
a

head down, gallop,

ears

tail erect, and

about look bnsiness-like vicious nasty

me

the

tip of

his horn that gave

to

cold chills down

the and

spine.
ran
"

I don't wish almost

a

deny that

turned involuntarily

if I first would, obeyed they anybody impulses. but yards,

reason

ran

few

returned,and
run

I remembered

El
was

Hakim's almost

that to warning fatal invariably

in the

under such circumstances off

to sharply

I turned

the

right,

like the hunters

that books, story hoping my pursuer of the porters he wouldn't but ; ;

vrss

would
he had

and try one pass me,

only one

desire in the wide, wide world,and that

to interview me. not to be

I, on

the other hand, was

must

anxious equally

but I interviewed,

admit that at the moment He

was

I did not closer and

quitesee

how

was

to avoid it

getting

closer at each stride, so there and faced him. stopped and worked
my

no beinglogically

other way, I

I therefore knelt down I

was

for all magasdne

not

worth, fervently hoping that it would

ten

jam. In

less than animal

saw

seconds

put four bullets into the enraged

All four took
as effect,

at short range.

distinctl they
sixtJi within

the dust spurt from At

his hide in little pu"b where when aside,

my

struck.

the fourth shot he swerved and

as

fifteen yards of me, and

very

he turned I gave him

last

in cartridge

the flank to hasten his

to
see

departure ; and
had six bullets

glad indeed I

was

him go.
but

He
I

in various

of his parts anatomy; than break the He

littlemore

did they expect skin,thoughthe shock probably

a

him. surprised
a

over disappeared

rise in the
I assumed

ground
a

mile away, and

stillgoing strong; while

chalant non-

ordered bored air,and languidly slightly

resume

the

men

to take up their scattered loads and

the march.

An

hour

or

so

after

we

reached

and

crossed the Athi

FROM

KRIGERS

TO

MARANGA.

31

Siver.

It

was

hot

and
a

dusty tramp.

Erigerbeingsome guideus,
he fired the

miles ahead, had, with grass

The
on

laudable desire to

his way.

The result was

what hardly
us our

anticipated.
a

immense

clouds of smoke
our a

gave

direction perfectly

well, but
times and
never
we

the fire barred had to rush

progress.
in the gap

Quite half

dozen

through
or

half choked flames,

singed. Once slightly

get
other the mules
or

twice

thoughtwe
burnt walk
on on.

should
we
on

donkeys through at all,but

The
to
''

chivied them
the

past the firesomehow.

was

ground
I
"

side

simply horrible
of the

folly
of

realized what
the

the sensations

cat

hot bricks

proverb were.

Kiiger meant
at times
our own

well,but, strangeto say,

a

neither
our fact,

I nor Greorge languagewas

so

felt at all thankfiil. As

as

matter

of

hot

as as

the
on

foot, ground underour

not

much
men.
was a

on

account

that of

poor

barefooted The

Athi

not

very

wide

at

the

pointwhere
it becomes
a

we

but crossed,

littledistance lower down round flowing

broad

and noble Sabuk

stream

the north side of

Doenyo

till it

joinsthe T'savo Biver about

two
to combining at Milindi.

120 miles southeast

of that which and

we

the mountain,
sea

form the Sabaki,

flows into the

saw

The Athi is full of fish,

near

we

"resh
at

tracks hippopotamus'

the spot where

camped
After

mid-day. lunch Georgeand

result about turtle.
were

I went

with Eriger and fishing

a fish, largeeel,

Knapp:
and
a

net

40 lbs. of fine

mud

Afterwards very
we

and Kriger Out

on

went

out

We shooting. towards

unlucky.
saw

the

plains

Doenyo

Sabuk

vast herds of game,

including
most

but and the zebra, waterbuck, thompsonei, impala, oongoni,

country

was

flat perfectly

and

open what

and
we

the wind

do so that, variable, vexatiously

would, we

could

32

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND. to

not

within get range.

managed

bag

hare with

the
called mis-

before-mentioned
a

of piece

mechaniBm afterwards

which
we
were

Enapp

shot-gun. Soon
wild

traversing

some

broken

rocky ground when

are a

exclaimed, Erigersuddenly
'*

''Look,there
and
the

some

pig!

We

started after them,

we

within got

hundred

before 3rards
a

discovered that
lion
as we

supposedwild

pigwere

black-maned magnificent
almost
as

and
had
a

four lionesses.
seen

They spottedus
we a

soon

them, and when

into would

tried to get

near

enough

for

shot

they walked
nor

and reeds of tall patch

remained

there

growling,
think
we

show they

themselves

again. We

did not
so reeds,

it good

enough

to tackle five lions in thick

withdrew. reluctantly shot

a

Erigerhad
attacked and
the

lion

some

months

and previously,

was

mauled badly

by the lioness while examining

left his quarry,
arm

prostratebody of his

being bitten
her for
some

in several through

with places.He struggled

arm

his minutes,forcing her preventing

was

between

her open
or

jaws,and thereby
throat.
over

firom

h is shoulder seizing
a

His
a

life

only saved by
was

sudden

fall backwards

bank
was

which
so

concealed

by the undergrowth. The lioness

pearanc disapsurprised by Jiis completeand utterly unexpected

a bewildered that, casting

look around, she turned

and fled. We wounded continued

a our

hunt
It

for game,

and

presently Eriger
we

congoni

appeared very

and hit, badly

followed it for several miles in the but it seemed

our

hope that

it would

drop;
and

to

and with get stronger every step,

to finally,

and great disgust while

our we

joined a disappointment,
sat

herd

galloped away,
and
weary

down

on

the hard cold back to camp

"

ground
and
a

bemoaned

luck.
"

On

the way

walk it was

we

shot another

at congoni solitary

three

FROM

KRIGER'S

TO

MARANGA.

33

hundred

and him hit yards' fortunately range,

but ;

we

put

three bullets each into the beast before it dropped, ably so remarktenacious of life camp
at
are

these animals.

We

returned

to

tired out dusk, thoroughly

I retired to rest immediately

thus after dinner,

uneventful a not entirely concludiog

day.
We
examine

did

not

march

the next

day,as

El Hakim

wished

to

the

and surrounding coxmtry fix)m a farming He

and

stockon

of view. point raising

Eriger rode chap"

ofT

the
I
on

mules
went

after breakfast with while fishing,

that intention. sensible

Knapp and
laid himself

Geoige
"

the grass in the shade and watched

very fine fish weighing over 9

us.

Knapp caughtone
I returned to camp

while I caughtonly two lbs., of fever. In I

an

small

fish and

sharpattack
to

and climbed

into my
rose

blankets.

hour and

half my indeed
a

temperature
but towards El Hakim

105^ and

felt very

queer

recovered I evening

to eat sufficiently

little.

and

6 returned at Kriger p.m.,

to
a

the havingexplored their return

meat

adjacentcountry
shot they journey

and on their satisfietction,

zebra and

congoni. Zebra

is
or

excellent
four

if has it been hung for three eating, especially

days. When

cooked it is firm and white,in appearance

somewhat
of flesh on

resemblingveal. We
each side of the

always secured
"

the

strip

called by the Swahilis backbone, salala n'dani"

"salala"

also the imder-cut, and or (saddle),

our

for (inside saddle),

are

very

as big as large,

private consumption.The kidneys one's fist; and they, also the as are
fined in

when excellent eating are brains, We started at 7

am. on

hippofat.

a nd Eriger, and

"1 following morning, Hakim, Knapp goinga long way ahead,leaving Greoige

the

myself
was

with

the

big mule,

to

look could

after the

safari the

George

still so

that he queer

hardlysit on
D

34

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND. at

mule. paroxysm
but
a

He

was

and constantly vomiting,

every

fresh

the mole

that poor George had anything so shied,

I did not know

cheerful time.

the way, and

of

depended
had

on whollyfor guidance

the spoor

the others who

started. early. Soon after

starting,
a

rhinoceros of pair wide

over

charged us,
a

the scattering of men,

safari far and

the

plainin
back

medley
the

loads, donkeys,and cattle.

I had

I went

with

which 8-bore,
two

kept

close to

me

since my them

experience they made

He
a

I but could get near before before, days

ofiTagain, foul of Jumbi nearly getting

in their retreat

had

hidden

himself in the grass, and without

theypassedwithin
aware

dozen

yardsof him

becoming
was

of his presence.
on guidance

I have

mentioned

that I

for depending
caravan was

the spoor of that

me,
come
so

of the portion

which

had

preceded

it can
upon
a

be

I that imagined
men

to surprised exceedingly

of the party

who
come

had left camp

up. On

before me,

down sitting

f or waiting me

to

beingquestioned
were

they stated that the

and show the
so

"m'sungu" (whitemen)
as me

"huko

m'beli"' (somewhere ahead), but

they had laggedbehind,

to
a no come

lost them, theyhad waited for

the way. I
was

up

and

them

in

somethingof
stony,

quandary^as,
tracks
were

ground being very rough and

a

visible. After

moment's

consideration I decided to make

was

for the north end of I knew

Doenyo Sabuk, which

somewhere going shot
a

quitenear,

as

the others intended

in that direction.

On

the road

I stalked and

but my Swahili congoni,

as

aristocratsrefused to touch the meat,

cut its

I,and
"

not

had they,

it was throat, consequently

"

haran

forbidden .". sinful, (f

ate

They
with

were

much

less fastidious later on, and than

fax less avidity

food palatable

killed freshly

congoni

36 ford

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

deepwater.
gave

On the way
ns no a

back

El

Hakim

shot

con-

goni,which
As

much-needed other way

found
out

supply of
of the

fresh meat

there seemed
a

we difficulty,

decided to build

raft. We

it a very

there task, tough

was

beingno
mimosa

material at hand, as the wood

growingnear
green

all

thorn,so hard and heavy when

water.

that it will

hardlyfloat in
deep
hide
in the
cut

We

all the waistafternoon, spent

raw was

w ith of river, strips logs together lashing the

from

congoni

skins.

When

the raft

finished, just before sundown, it looked very clumsy and

and unserviceable, the volume pressure
enormous on we

had very grave

in the river
was

doubts of its utUity, as

very
was ours

of water such ^much

was an more a

and great, bound would

to

the be

unwieldy structure
than any rope of that the question
an

"

stand.

However,that
so we

morrow a

would decide ; from the yards

moored
went
on as

the raft to

island

few

bank, and
We
was as

back to camp the

a crane

for dinner.
shot two

dined

I had

days before.

It

laige

small

and splendid though turkey, eating, it. El Hakim and I sat up late

my

'303 had rather

damaged

into the which

we en

and final night, making arrangements

to take back with him
a

letters, writing
when morning,
cross

Erigerwas

next

intended to make
rotUe for Mount

determined
''

effort to

the river

Eenia and the returned

beyond."
Nairobi
our

Eriger and

Enapp
14th.
them

to

earlyon

tiie

morning of
back,as
we

June found

They took
too

remainingcattle
we

much

and El Hakim trouble, could bade

use

had others at
if
we

Munithu, in North Eenia, which

for trade purposes.

requiredthem
of luck.

We

them
all

adieu, and
kinds

returned the they

compliment, wishingus

They

then

departedon

their homeward

journey.

THE

ATHl

RIVER

NEAR

DOENYO

SABUK.

CROSSING

AN

AFFLUENT

OF

THE

SAGANA.

(See page 60.)

FROM

KRIGER'S

TO

MARANGA.

yj
less, useentirely

We

found
we

our

and raft waterlogged

to

almoBt
we

bnt
We

determined

try

what

conld do with
men

it.

had great

in persuading the difficulty

to go into the
across

and got a rope water, bnt managed it at last, with

the river
on

which

to haul

the raft over.

were or

We

put

two

loads

it,

and

though they
once

got safelyacross
twice very the rope
so

they were
When the
we

soaked

and through,
to

lost. nearly and parted,

tried

haul

our
we

raft back had

trivance unholy con-

spent

much
was

time and labour upon lost to

drifted

down-stream, rapidly
We there up abandoned
was

and

sight.
"

the idea of
no

by raft crossing
"

as especially we

then

raft to
for
some

play with

and

so

prospected

the river-bank
a

and littledistance,
a

eventually
any

discovered
we

placethat

promised
There

better
were

than crossing
or

had

previously
near

seen.

two

three small
narrowed
we

islands it to had
we nor

the hither bank

of the

which river,

more

and by lunch-time manageable proportions,

across

the rigged rope

all
were

the main
an

channel.

After lunch
;

and stripped,
we

for prepared The

afternoon's hard work

was breast-deep,

disappointed
a

stream,
bed
was

running
slabs of
constant water-worn

like

mill-race.

Its

composed
of there

of

flat

to granite polished

the smoothness here and

glassby the
were

water-Mction. boulders with

Strewn

smooth

deep

holes between, which

made

the

both difficultand dangerous. By crossing half

dint of half

wading and
we

swimming,holding

on

to the rope for

safety,
across

all the loads labour to with incredible get managed

without accident. the Oetting difficult task. and had best to

to

mules

and

donkeys
Once mtdes

across

was

still more

They

face refused to the water, absolutely

be forced in.
across.

in, though, they did their

and four of the

get

The

donkeys

38

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

succeeded after a
were

severe

but straggle, We

the other two

were

donkeys
lose

swept away
so

down-stream. down

to unwilling

them,
them them
stream

swam

the river with them,

tryingto head
lower down

towards

the

bank. opposite
a

I succeeded at last in
a

forcings

imder the bank but at that ;

we

of quarter

mile

or

so

it was place

and perfectly perpendicular,

there

the stood,
on us a

two

and donkeys

myself, up
two

to

our

necks
one

in water side of
to face

about submerged ledge

feet
none

wide, on
of
us

the

which river, swiftly rushing

on

wished

and again,

the other side

bank, toppedwith dense jungle. I

there were, and are,
went
a

unclimbable perfectly of as thought crocodiles^

a

great many
wished
for

in the Athi
most

Biver,and
I
was

cold all over, and else.

I

that heartily
men,

somewhere

shouted

the

and

presently they

heard their voices from the

bank the of top the

overhead ;
so

could not interlaced

down
to

reach me, however, as

as

junglewas

thickly
a

to be

tried They impenetrable.

it up
as

to cut

way

me,

but gave

besides, impossible they ;

could not have got the

I grew I
was more

that out donkeys way, littleanxious

anyhow.
donkeys,as
drown.

than

about the

a"aid
are

they would
the

lose heart and let themselves

Donkeys
I

like that sometimes

ears

when

they
held

are

in difficulties.

clung

to

of my I

and two,

their heads above

water

by

main

force.

w hile and cold chilled, got into my head.

Once
a

thoughts

of crocodiles \D(yuldcome

submerged

log drifted past beneath

my
went

and in the surface,

grazed passing
it

thigh.
on

I turned

with sick actually

but apprehension,

with the current,and left me

some

as with shivering

ague.

I ordered down

of the

men

to

get

into the river and I

swim

to me,

and

arrived. presently they

I reflected that my

felt immediately

much
were

as better, now

chances of

being seized

lessened. considerably

FROM

KRIGER'S

TO

MARANGA.

39

When

I had

half got
ears

dozen

men

down^

we

took

the

donkeys by

the

and

and half towed, half pushed tails, landed snccessfully

them np-stream against the cmrent, and

them,thoughcertainly they were

I found that El Hakim and and

more

dead than alive.

tents up,

George had got the

that dinner

was

the inde"tigable by being prepared

on and, putting myself, some

Bamathani.
went

I dried

clothing,
of meat.

out in search of
no

in the edible way something

a

I
an

saw

but I made antelope,

good

shot with the '303 at

tail stork {LeptoptUus The feathers, adjutant mantbou). feathers of commerce,

consorts
were

the Marabout

This magnificent.
so the vultures,

bird is a carrion-eater, and

was

with

it

therefore not suitable for the pot. I cut

to the

oflf the

large

bagattached
of

in order throat,

to make

tobacco-pouch
us

devoured it. but the dog sneaked it and, I believe, it, We

sat down to dinner in the

of three a ll moonlight,

tired out, but thoroughly

pleasedat
I had in my

the conquered having

formidable Athi

Now,

possession
a

box

of

atrocious particularly
on

which cigars,
as a

I had

in bought

hurry
and

day we George. Th6y

the others

the

left Nairobi
were

El f or surprise
"

Hakim

somebody's Morning
the concerned,
I also, though
was surprise was

whiflfs.'*As fer
but complete,
thing someexpecting

were

me theysurprised

half

out

of the

common.

I remember

the first one

I smoked

that

night.

member re-

I it distinctly, though would

much

rather

it. forget

We

had

finished just It
was

dinner,and
a

were

in table the at sitting

stars shone

semi-darkness.

beautiful

The evening.

in the brilliantly and softly played

were

unclouded

firmament, and the cool breeze

the

whisperedamong

palms.
and into my

The

men

happy

and contented, and all was

peace

harmony.
tent and

Suddenly rememberingthose

I cigars,went

40

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND. two

took three out of the box. for the

put

of them
own

in my before

pocket

and others,

to proceeded

light my
me

going

outside
strove

again.

The firstpuffknocked my

backwards, but I

to recover gallantly

ing scattered faculties, and, dash-

the tears from hard

my

made eyes,

another attempt. It
I

was

I admit work, but I persevered, though

a or

perspired
a

freely. After
cautious
draw

I found little practice

that if I took

two, sandwiching deep long draughts

of fresh air between Then

Hakim I went

each, I could manage

at

to

get along.
EI

outside and sat down

were

the

table where

and

George

a nd quietly
"

conversing. happily
"

it ? isn't smell, said, Funny Presently Geoige

"Yes," El Hakim
last two
or

"I replied. I

have

noticed it for the

men

three minutes.

hope those

have not set

fire to the
"

grass."
it ? noticed you
"

Have

said

George to
be

me.

"No,
"

I can't say I

have,"I answered.
nose

"What
out

is it like?"

Great

Scott ! your
me

must
a

of

order," said
what

George.
it
can
"

"It reminds
"

of

brickfield. I wonder

be ?

Oh, you fellows

must

be

L s aid dreaming,"

"I

can't

smell

anythingextraordinary."

"Can't look added. "A

at
me.

you?"

said "1

Hakim, turningin his chair

what
are

to

"Hullo!

you

smoking?"

he

of cigar,

course,

and
as

a a

jollygood
proof
"

one

too,"said

I, pufi^g away
which El very

vigorously slowlyto
walked

of my

enjoyment,
one

proved my undoing. nearly

rose

Have

"

Hakim

his feet,and

gazed sorrowfully
or

and

at me reproachfully

then ;

giving one
the

two

distinctly
a

audible sni"b,he and

slowlyto
the

edge

of the camp
moment

over gazed silently

followed plains,

42

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

Sabuk,

we

struck

the river much

lower

down

than

the

hostile districts. presumably

It
was a a a

rather

narrow

but

full of water, stream, deep

with
find

very

swift and
so

powerfulcurrent.
we

We

could

not
at

crossing-place,
which
we

tried to

bridgethe stream
down,

the cataracts

discovered
to

lower

at which

the channel narrowed place There

down
a was a

like twenty something

on

yards.
cut

largetree

standing

the bank, and

we

it

in the

hope that it would

tiresome task, and
so we

fall across somehow would

the river. the tree

not

It

was

long and
way;

fell the
a

wrong

thought we
which logs,
we

built

bridge,
at
one

after all. We

then went dead

higherup
we

the

river,and

placefound two
a

lashed

form t o together
a

raft. The

raft

completed,
As
liim

called for
ben

volunteer to
was a

take the line

across.

Asmani
to

SeUm
He

good

swimmer,
raft

we

ordered
across

volunteer.

did

and so,

got the line

across

without

accident.

He

then hauled the

we were

with another line attached, by which

enabled to haul it back demonstrated

for lunch.

and then, having satisfactoril again,

the

of practicabilityour

idea, we

adjourned
and again,

After the meal amused

firoacross

we

went

down

to the river

ourselves all the afternoon the river with

two

by

and the to raft pulling

at
a

loads

on

time.

We

had

all the loads and

means.

safely

across

by
had

five o'clock in the afternoon,

men sense

then

proceededto get the

of them
not

across

by the
to sit to

same

Some
on

enough
hauled

still,

and

three separateoccasions

they managed
were

the upset

imstable craft in midstream, and

to the

across

clinging

overturned
was

which miserable indeed* raft, feeling very way alleviated

feeling

in

no

by

the

their of more gibes without accident.

fortunate

who companions

had got

across

FROM

KRIGER'S

TO

MA

RANG

A.

43

It

was

dark
were

by

the time the last the wrong

man

and had crossed, We

the animals

stillon
on

side of the river.

a

camped accordingly
men

the bank, and sent

three of guard

back At

againto look after them morning simple

we

the during

night.
the get
one

daylight next
across

to proceeded

animals

by

the

of expedient
a

tying
of
a

end
men

of the rope
on

round

their necks, when

of the river soon I admit that but ;

team

dozen

the

bank opposite
across.

hauled made they

them, Irin.lri
the passage
was no

and

struggling,
and the

for the most way,

part under water

there still,

other

of the animals themselves,though objections

not count

did strenuous, very That business

our

for much.
we

concluded,
followed
no

struck

camp

and

continued
a

march.

We

road, and, being without

in
a

guide,we

travelled
we

by compass
to

direction. north-easterly
waters

By
Tana
on

so

doing
Biver at

hoped
there

strike the upper

saw

of the

Maranga.
gnu

We

numbers great
numerous

of

antelope
in

the road, and brindled

of
a

were

also

herds of zebra
were

and
want

We (Cb?m(?"Jiac^tt" taurinus). the game

was

meat,

but

very

and shy,

while

stalking
200

herd of zebra I had

ofifat

the ill luck

a

to startle them
a

somehow, and theywent

"

took I gallop.

shot long

yards"

at the leader of the

herd,and,

as

luck would

In'tn have it, dowa brought

We
and

went

on

till 10 a.m., when

on

we

halted for breakfast,

did
a

ourselves very well

We liver. zebra grilled march resumed after

made
a

"Telekesa"

march

{i.t.a

short halt for

water
socm

localities in refreshment), usually necessary and water-holes

were on

where
so

is scarce

longdistances apart
"

by

after mid-daywe

the

move

again.
could
be
to promised

The
see

country
ranges

was

now

We gettingvery nasty. that

low

of

hills ahead steep

44

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

yerj

inconyenient.

At

dusk

we

ascended
soon

the
we

ontlyiii camped

hard it spniB, finding very for the shot I night. in fireshmeat

a

work, and

after

daring the congoni

a

which afternoon,
That

kept xks
we was

for

day or

two.

the estimate

had formed of the natural difficulties to be encountered

a

correct next

one, two

we

had

many It
was a

of opportunities verifying
a

the during
of

days.

horrible piece perfectly

country.
down

It

seemed

to be

collection of the

rocky

hills

thrown order.

just anyhow, without

coarse

for regard slightest

Long

grass
our

and

rank We

did their vegetation

were

best to very
half mile
or

impede
so

progress.

retarded every which

we

down descents, by steep find the

a

toiled

and painfully, slowly onlyto

at

rushingtorrent roaring
careful
much

the

bottom, that needed

most

n^otiation.
constant

Our

poor

donkeys
cross

suffered very

by the

of and unloading loading in order to

some

their burdens,rendered necessary while ravine,

obnoxious particularly
tried. severely it
was

the men's In the

was patience

earlymorning
on us

still worse,

as

the dense

was undergrowth

then soaked
in

with through
as we

the

heavy dew,
our was

which

descended

icyshowers

forced There

way
no

thus addingto through,

game
to

our one

other miseries.

I shot of. speak

congoni at solitary
on

our same

first

camp
we

in this iminhabited
on

and wilderness,
to
a

the

day

walked inadvertently

which rhinoceros, sleeping

livened El

things up
Hakim
on
a was

little.
at riding
was

the head

of the

sabri, and
I
was saw

George,
El

the

other mule,

close behind

him.

walking
Hakim

few

yards

behind

George.
second
while

I Suddenly

stiffen in his seat and kick his feet free of the

a

stirrup-irons;
the saddle and

fraction of
a

later he

was

out

of his

behind

bush,

George

emulated

FROM

KRIGER'S

TO

MARANGA.

45

example with
rendered
as being,

promptitade that could

most

only have

been

possible by the
a

tugent necessity, Geoige

as

rule, extremelydeliberate in his movements,

man.

befits a
a

heavy
a an

At

the

same

with instant,

rush and
as.

snort,

at large black rhinoceros gallopedblindly

took up
as

unobtrusive

behind position

an

adjacent tree,with
my and dignity,

little delay as

consistent with possible

the

rhinoceros rushed past and

at

It appearedannoyed disappeared.

being disturbed.
On
the

afternoon of
we

the
some

third

day

after

leavingthe

Thika-Thika

got
The

into

dense very
was

scrub, and fairly

lost ourselves.

bush

except
which tunnels
warren,

for the low tunnels made

absolutely impenetrable, by wanderinghippopotamus,

not
a

indicated the presence

gave

of water

far off. These

the scrub
we

the appearance of
to

rabbitgigantic

in which any

had
at

walk It
was

bent double in order to hot exceedingly

maze bewildering nearer

make

headway
we were

alL
about

and
of
to
were

dusty,and
the

plunged

in the

tunnels till we

tired out, while

no seemingly

the tunnel in which side. Presently opposite

moment
on we

we

burrowingat the
few of
a

dippeddownwards, abruptly
on emerged unexpectedly

and

yards further
broad

the

edge

which and noble river,

flowed

and serenely swiftly

past our
We
not

delighted eyes.
had
no

doubt

that this was

the Tana which

we

had

another for reach to expected

day

at

least;a surmise
or Sagana, a

which
more

proved to be correct.

It is called here the

rarelythe

Eilaluma

It is firewater). (i.".

very

with very beautiful river,

in the most

banks perpendicular high Tall

clothed

verdure. lovely

water-palms (Baffia sp. ?)

luxuriant surrounding
many of

heads fax above the reared their stately while vegetation;

trees tropical

formed species

46
a

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

pkygroimd

for troops of

monkeys.
of picture

Birds

of

brilliant

and diminutive darted hither like thither plumage

rainbows,

and

completed
The

as

charming

tropical beauty as

cotdd be found in Africa. river itself was

a

about

eightyyardsbroad,and
We

very

with deep,
at
a

four-miles-an*hour current.
two

had

struck it

pointabout
at

march days'

above

the Carl Alexander

and Sweinfurth Falls.

shot
one

It is full of

in the

water, but

it

hippopotamus.(3eorge sank immediatelyand

discovered
of

view. firom disappeared Our

men

skirmished
we

round, and

small

in which clearing,

camped. Some
farther up

the

Wakamba
was

informed porters
a

us

that

the river there

and beyond that the ''shambas" bridge,

of (plantations)

the
as

A'kikujni.We
used they

were
"

rather

about the bridge, sceptical

is the Swahili word

the word

which dirage,"
a

used
a

by

the Wakamba

either for

a bridge,

boat

or

or raft,

ford,though the Swahilis themselves

for each.
one

have

separateand
the

distinct words We

ascertained

fact

A
two

laige river,called
hours' march
of
a

the joined Sagana Maragua, and

we

up-stream^
successful

should have

much

better chance

if we crossing the

crossed before the

Maragua joinedforces with

a

swollen Sagana, already thoughsuch rivers instead of

one.

course

necessitated

two crossing

Early
direction. of and
a row we

next

day

we was

set

oflfup-stream in
an

westerly
the roofs

Travelling

like

excursion

over

of houses.
were

The

was jungle

dense very

everywhere,
numerous

also in constant

danger from
set

the

which had been hippopotamus-traps sometimes of

a

who by the natives,

hunt this side of the river. These trapsconsisted

18 inches

about heavy logof wood, probably thorn,

long

FROM

KRIGER'S

TO

MARANGA.

47

and

9 inches
set

in

with diameter, end.

This

an was

iron blade

8 inches

long
cord

firmly

in

one

wards downblade suspended

a

over

the centre of the

across

and connected with path,

stretched When kicked the the

the

path

an

inch

or

so

above the

ground.
it

that hippopotamus passed way nnsospecting

and down the cord,therebyreleasing a catch, with itskeen

dropped
keep
of

armed heavy log,

into the unfortunate blade,

victim's back,
a

the spine. severing usually

We

had to

for look-out these men sending sharp traps, very

ahead

the safari to search for them before We

as we

and release the

log suspended
hour

passed.
lost
of the Saganaaltogether in sight
a an or

so,

here

it makes

big curve
that
a

to

the north before reached the

flowing

down

againto

the Mumoni

hills. We
our

Maragua
was

in due

course, and found

was

men's information

and that there correct, later that it was ITbu. channel

It
was

I genuine bridge. discovered

on some

built by Gibbons well bmlt, very

as

his ill-fatedjourneyto small which

was

islands in the
were

being utilized
of the

piers, upon

laid the hand

stems strai^t

which water-palm

growingat

in greatprofusion, and answered

was,
caie we

the purpose

It excellently.

and requiredgreat however, partly destroyedby fire,

in

crossing.We
on

could not
our

trust

the animals
across

on a

so it,

had to fallback
the

them and haul rope,

little the

higher up less violent. current consequently

Just below the

river,where

the

water

was

deeperand

bridge were
a

series of

magnificent
round with another The

which filledthe air for cascades, theb march

max

long distance
intended
a

stupendous
that

roar.

As
on

we

making

day,we
no

went

againafter

short halt.

had

had

food for three

of meat quantity insignificant

days, exceptthe remains of the I shot a few days before. We

48
were

THROUGH

KIKUYU to

TO

GALLA-LAND.

therefore anxious

reach

the cultivated country in

order to

for them. buy "esh supplies

a

After
four among

weary

walk

from
were

eleven

in the

morning

to

in the afternoon, we the shambas

relieved to find ourselves We

of the natives.
a

camped beside

a a

small stream

close to

and immediately opened village,

market, and when

the natives and

sweet

appearedwe

bought
were

small
once

supply of

maize
our

which potatoes,

at

served out to

hungrymen.

50
an

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

a"9uent of the

We Sagana.

crossed without much

trouble

aid of the ragged-looking by the timely A'kikuyn noblemen in attendance when followed,
on

their
we

chiefl

Another the

two-hour

tramp
is

at

last reached

Sagana^which

really
a

noble

river,abounding in hippo here, as

saw no

indeed
we

it does

everywhere. We
informed
or

crocodiles, though

most inquired

them. a fter anxiously

us a

Einuthia

that month

the

Somalis'
One

safari had of Jamah

crossed three weeks Mahomefs

a

before.

while cows,

had been seized t he river, fording

out. right

by

crocodile and the poor beast'sshoulder torn comfortable

on

We

did not feel more

of receipt

this intelligenoe

but iwe

were

assured

by the natives that they had sincd

a

all poisoned
so a

the crocodiles for

distance of half

mile

or

each side of the

or stray reptile

that ford, though theythoughtit likely

two
no

might

have

escaped the general

;
so we

We poisoning.

had

however choice,

and stripped

to the opposite waded, chin-deep, side,about eighty yards

distant The
current
was

a nd immensely powerful,
we

the bottom

and pebbly very Einuthia's Our

men

but slippery ;

were

assisted passage

by

some

of

and aristocracy,
were

made

the

in

safety.
so

tired and rather

nervous

of the current,
cloth each,

for three ''makono'' induced

(about \\ yards)of
aforesaid for them himself
"

we

fifteen of the
across

A'kikuyu noblemen
a

to

their loads carry

task

they successfdlly

Einuthia accomplished, his

not
earn

to discard difldaiuing

robes (agoatskin) and royal We breakfasted

as on

his

pieceof clotL
then made
an

the bank, and

us

another hour's
tJie of

move,

Einuthia
on

impressedupon
was

the fact that of village

an

journeyfurther
chief of the

situate the

Manga,

Maranga, whose

peoplehad

abundance

FROM

THE

TANA

TO

ATBU.

$1

food for sale,and

we supplies

where

we

should be able to He

buy

all the

needed without any trouble.

us

said he would
Teiy

accompany

and

introduce us; which

we

was thought

good of him.
Our way
out

bore which fully dense plantations, lay through Einuthia's assertions

an as

Mend

to
we

the richness of the reached grass,

on
a

district in

food-stuffo. In

hour

gently
we

hill,covered sloping

with short green We

sent

which

pitched our

camp.

for the chief,who He seemed We

a

shortly requirebring
was

afterwards made

his appearance.

decent very
our

old fellow, and anxious to assist us.

stated his

moits, and he
us

commanded immediately

to people
"

food for

and did everything in his power sale, himself" -to show

us

short of

givinganything away

that he

and well-disposed towards us. firiendly His son, Eoranja,a rather good-looking young for
a

feUow

had been down native,

to Mombasa

with
very

and safari,

well spoke Kiswahili fairly Some of the old

men

He

seemed

intelligent.
Arab passing returned

of the

tribe also

spoke Kiswahili,

which, we
or

presumed, theyhad

from picked up

Swahili safaris. Einuthia his

own

bade

us

adieu and the

to

of t he other side village

us a

received from

suitable present of

having Sagana, to gladden beads, etc.,

and arrive,
we

his heart, or rather the hearts of his wives.

Large
least ten

of food then quantities

we were

began to
day
or

decided to stop where

for a

two, and

buy

at

days' rations
northwards.
our

for the men, retired that

before

resumingour
a we

journey
easier in for
some

We

night

deal great had been

minds about the commissariat than

days. morning the

camp
was

Next

with fairly buzzing of them had

natives

of all ages and both

sexes.

Moat

food brought

52
to

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

but many sell,

we were

of them

come

merely to look at us.

Not
we

that

much
run a

to look at ; in any civilized community

should have
and

risk of great

beingarrested
and

as

vagrants
wore

characters. El Hakim suspicious

our

George both
was

and embryo beards,

appearance

generally
had
a a

rather that

of tramps than otherwise.

for
a

El Hakim
and

affection great both jacket,

known
wear

pairof moleskin
had
seen

trousers

leather

of

which better

much it
was

service. His
an

hat, too, had

but days;
on

of his to idiosyncrasy

his

clothes farther

safari work
and

till

they

were one

absolutely beyond
occasion he
was ported re-

mending

patching.On

to have

for months, tramped about the Lykipia plateau

a

clad with

only in
a

coloured cloth and

(^ brown pair

boots,

towel twisted round

he his head turban-wise, vouch

as

having
a

lost his dress in

as

only hat.
a

can

for the comfort of such

on

good climate such

had

obtains

the Waso

Nyiro,
the

I tried the As
soon

experiment myself.
as we we breakfasted,

went
as

about
is

business of important is generally,

marketing.Maranga,

Eakuyu
of

and rich extraordinarily

fertile. All kinds those

grain
us

are

exceedingly plentiM. Among

were

to brought

for sale

millet

called by the {PanicfumlUdicum), Penni8etum

natives

''metama;"
a

spiccUnm, known
grows
on

as a

''mwele,"
close
as
''

seed
a

resemblinglinseed,which
bulrush
''

like spike
"

flower;Meusine
"

earocana,

known

uimbe

and

muhindi," or

dhurra

''

(maize).A laige
common

t he o f is also most edible roots cultivated, variety

being was ''mahogo" (manioc).Sugar-cane

and is known which
on

"viazi"

"vikwer" (sweet potatoes),

very

(yams), and

largely grown,
The stalks of

to the
are

natives

as

''mewa.''

metama,
natives

called ^'kota," are of the sweetish

also chewed sap. The

by

the

account

half-grown

THE

CAMP

AT

MAKA^"GA.

BUYI^'G

FOOD

AT

ilAKANGA.

(See page

54.)

i:

tL

NEW

\C}.V.

A'^TOR.ltNCX

ANO

FROM

THE

TANA

TO

M'BU.
''

53

stalks of the ''N'dizi"

never

same

plant
are

are

known

as

metama

m'tindi"
we

(bananas)
any,
as

also
are

but caltivated, extensively

never
are

ate

they
while When

allowed

to

The ripen.

natives

pluckthem

they

and roast and hard, green have the they appearance

a

Uiem

in hot ashes.
a

cooked

and taste of

flonry thoughwith potato,

astringent slightly

flavour. Wild It is called for the

*"

honey was
"

in moderate quantities procurable

"

word Arabic derived from the assala," evidently

same

substance, assal.'' The Masai

used in generally

name

for honey
At certain
''

is naischu,"the word
seasons

Eikuyu.
*'

of the year the

of d iet is the natives staple

saw a a

kundu

"

of (beans),
small white

which bean

we

two

viz. maragua^" a varieties,

like

and ''baazi," a black bean haricot, small tree like of

a

which grows in also grow

pods on

laburnum.

They
in size
''

several which
''

kinds

gourds,named
a

respectivel

"mumunye,"
a

resembles

vegetable

marrow

and appearance,

round kind, and a kitoma,'' small,

It will be observed

tikiti,"

small water-melon.

that

we

did not

lack variety. We
at

of m'wele, which quantities boughtlarge

:

our

Swahilis

firstrefused to eat knew

they said it
We

was

"

chickens' food."

They

better afterwards.

also

procuredsome
was

''mazewa"

(freshmilk) for ourselves. Food

A

tively compara-

cheap. bought
equalsabout
a

"makono"

of doth

or

handful of beads beans.

A

several '^kibabas'' of
a

grain or
makono
"

kibaba

pint. The

term

''

(meaning, literally
from the

to the hand) is applied

measure

of the forearm

tip of
about

the elbow

to the end

of the second

generally finger,
one
so

inches. eighteen
and yards),
"

Four

makono

equal
or

''doti''
make
a

(about two
"

twenty-five yards

jora

'*

or

piece

"

of cloth. in demand
were

The

beads most

the small

red Masai

54

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA^LAND.

beads known

as

"sem-sem."

We

did not

with part

any

wire,

as

we

wanted

fiarther north. it for the districts

out

George and I went hippo in the

the bank

in the forenoon
was an

to

and shoot try

from

Sagana,which
George

camp.

On

only I a pool, reaching likely

had
a

hour's walk
sat

down

on on

the the

to watch.

turned very sick

again
men

and way,

laid down

under

shady

tree.

I shot two

hippo
down

in the water, but the river to watch them. There

camp
went
were
a

they sank, and

sent I though
never saw

I the shallows,

any

more

of

lot of

I so about, guinea-fowl
was

sent

back to

for my

shot-gun.Geoige
my

feeUng

so

that he queer
a

back also. When the

a

had I arrived, gun

an

good time
or so.

among

in eight guinea-fowl, securing

hour in
a
"

I
"

also got

which partridge,

turned

up

^for it

moment. inopportune

When
been

back to camp, got

I foimd

that "1 Hakim

had
a

successful in his highly

had and marketing,

obtained
some

and of muhindi, food, mwele, laigequantity mostly

viad. muhindi
was

For

our

own

consumption
beans,and

we

had

laid in

stock of

cobs,maragua

some

butter.

The butter
was

snow-white, but, being made

from

curdled milk,

acid and very The

impalatable.
always drink their milk
make
sour

natives
our

they do

not

understand that tends

milk. fresh for preference

Another

thing
They ashes,

to

their milk

with unpopular

European

travellers is the
are

of the vessels it is keptin. state dirty

made

from

gourds which
of

have

had

the inside cleaned

out with

out

by the simpleprocess givesthe milk

vessel is called
a a
"

it burning

hot

which milk

charred flavour. nasty

I kibuyu.''

The

finished told that

have
a

been

drawn they stir the freshly

milk with

charred stick from

56
over

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.
never apparently seen
a

in his

grimy paws.
seeingme
to

He

had

but before, cigar

at last ventured

smoking a

similar
to

he specimen,
on

It it. seemed light

grate

him

a a

bnt little,
moment
or were

he said

and nothing,

pn"fedstolidly away
see

for

two,

though
scored
on

I could

his powers After and

of selfa

control

being exerted

to the utmost.
a

game

the struggle

dgar

distinct success, the elder

on

Manga,

it passing deliberately

to

his

rose right,

w ith and, stalking slowly,

out dignity great

of camp,

appeare dis-

behind
The after between

clump of bushes.
he

old him

man

to whom
a

handed

it

gazed wonderingly

for

moment,

then, placingthe fatal weed

took
a

his
A
a

he aged lips,

long pull and inhaled the

smoke.
he threw

startled look

appeared in his dim old eyes, and

my direction ; but I
was

in quickglance
at

calmly

puffing away

mine,
a

so

he said

took and either, nothing

another whifiT. In

few short moments

he in his turn his next

was

to and, handing the cigar vanquished,

neighbour,

retired with

and old with

an

he where the of to bushes, clump dignity great Manga offered up sacrificesto the goddessN icotina

that unanimity
was

was

as

as it was surprising

novel
we

It

with only
to control
our

the very

that greatestdifficulty
were

managed

risiblefaculties. We

inwardly
The

convulsed with

at laughter

the facial expressions of the old

the fearsome weed. gentlemen before and after tasting

looks of

the startled delighted, thoughtimorous, anticipation, the

on

and realization,
were

which agonized retrospection, the

in

turn

portrayed
of

usuallyblank
of

and

uninteresting
a

countenances

Manga's Ministers
to the

was State, one

in study

that expression

was

One by simplykilling.

theytasted
of bushes

it; one

by

one

they retired

clump friendly

that concealed their exaltation from

pryingeyes;

and

one

FROM

THE

TANA

TO

M'BU.

S7

by

one

they retmned

red-eyedand

shaky, and resumed

same

their
We

unmoTed. places, inwardly thoughoutwardly quaking, also had to get up and go away, but not for the
If
a we

purpose.

had not burst

gone
a

away

and

have
too

had

fit or We

blood-vessel.

laughed, It was altogethe

we

should

rich.

returned

red-eyedand
as

weary
we

and also,

believe

that the old

that gentlemen thought

had been up
not

to tiiesame

could themselves, they performance though how

I resumed my

understand
and

cigar

on

my

reappearance,
a

continued

smoking with
smoke that '^shaurie"

unru"3ed
to

made I serenity.

point of
that I
not

finiahiug my
the

and the last half-inch,

all

through the
was

succeeded
covert

became

aware

of recipient with envy,

Ranees of admiration,
the various the members
cause

unmixed

from

of

that little band

of heroic

sufferers in

of

etiquette.
When lot of who who the '"shauiie"
was

at

a resumed,we gained length

information. We found interesting had attacked Finlayand Gibbons were north of the to days' journey Kenia.

that the

people
on

the Wa'lTbu,

live two

Maranga,
had
a

the
bad

south-east

of slopes Mount

They
''

very

reputation.The Maranga people spoke of them with bated

and remarked breathy
that if
we

that

they

were

bad, very bad,"and

should

went

through their countrywe

certainly

be killed.
Jamah

Mahomet's

100 safari, nearly numbering guns,

had refused to go
west

the to off turned and had M'bu, through Kenia

from

to go round the west side of Mount Maranga, to

and

thence northward is called

are

limeru, as the districtnorth-east of

Kenia

by the Swahilis.
different peoplesbetween

There

many
most

Maranga

and

M'thara,the

inhabited country,though they northerly

58
are

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

all

A'kikayn

in

blood.

Beyond

M'thara and

the

desert

stretches away Lake

to southern

Somaliland

with Abyssinia, march days'

in the Budolph

a bout twelve foreground

north-west of M'thara. The

Maranga
we

elders entreated

us

very
as

to urgently

go

round west

of Eenia

by

the
see

same

route

Jamah
same

Mahomet alL at light

;

and Co.,but We
were

did not

the in things

three white

men we

with
were

twenty-five guns
to be

and, as
our

El Hakim

observed,
our

"not

turned

from

path and
however

by a packof howling savages, plauBdisarranged

a our

bad

reputation they might

have"

"

decision

we

conveyed to
with much

Maranga
persons

Mends

forthwith.

They

heard it

of hands and raising

as

and o f rolling eyes,

clearly

regardedus
to be

of unsound

mind, who

reallyought
we were

in kept confinement ; but

to court
a

if said, still, they

in
us
"

determined would

premature end
to

M'bu, why, they

an we ambiguity

do all in their power

help

excused indulgently
of their wish

in consideration of the evident

us

sincerity

to advise

for

our

good.
northward people
use were we

We
"

were

informed

that all the

kali Sana"

and (veryfierce),

should do well to

the
"

utmost
a

districts in passing the various precaution through

we

piece of advice

did not
meant

intend to
a

To disregard.
on was

go

rotmd
road

the other way

to

more quite fortnight

the
very

in addition M'thara,
see
as

to which

El

Hakim

anxious to
were

Mount
no

Kenia white
men

from

the east side, as, indeed,

we

we

all,
the

that

knew

of had

been

round funked

that way

before.
route

Perhaps
had

the fact that the Somalia

to

M'bu

something

do

with

our

decision also. We

gatheredwhat
of M'bu
and

information

we

could of the topography

the

afterwards which countries, adjacent

FROM

THE

TANA

TO

M'BU.

59
our on

proved
One and of
we

useful exceedingly
our

We

packed
a

up

and goods the

morrow.

and made chattels,

our

for preparations
a

start

had HaTnisi, men,

severe

attack of

dysentery,
months.

made with

with arrangements

the old

Manga
for

to leave him

behind

Manga's son

enough Koranja and

for two

doth

for his
some

keep

some
men

of the old
us

signified
It

their intention of

accompanying

the of part way. should

!
as

appearedthat
We

days'journey we

be among

the Wa'M'bu Mendly tribes. After that, started the

morning following
in produces,

soon

as

Koranja

appeared. The country was

The soil is bright red,and
constant

fertile. and rich extraordinarily with the conjunction

The unlimited food-supply. a practically moisture,

ground was
for
our

and weU hilly very There

were
no

watered

"

too

well watered

comfort
was

growth underthe but largetrees,

We
saw

rank very

and dense.

large quantities
the seeds and

of the The
smear

castor-oil

wild. {Bidwrn communis) growing plant

natives press the dark-coloured oil from their bodies with it. Several times
on

that

march morning's
one

we

saw

Eoranja,

who

was

dart leading,
the

to hurriedly

the side, and, leaving

a

path,plungeinto
round

making undergrowth,
course,

devious d6tour safari

the

of followed, something, the than

reason

by

the

We

asked
more

of his strange conduct, and

It
was

answer

satisfied us.

the
a

word single
dozen

''ndui"

We (small-pox).
were

half passedquite

which villages
Now

entirely depopulated by
saw a

the scourge.

and

again

emaciated Ifigure, covered with small-pox soUtary with the side of the path, us on pustules, crouching watching
we
an

uninterested and vacant

a

stare.

On

shout from

Koranja
slink

and

threateningmotion
into the

of

his

would it spear, of the

mournfully away

deeperrecesses

jungle.

6o

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

We We
were

reached unable

small
to

about midday,and camped. clearing build a boma round the camp, owing to
so

the absence
we

of thorn trees, or any reliable substitute ;

a measure

that

were

in

defenceless
natives
soon

against
a

sudden

attack.

Large numbers
We

of armed

put

in appearance, and
even

swaggeredin and out with

cleared them
out

and freedom, great

insolence.

but politely,

and firmly,

they

then

outside congregated

and discussed
more

us.

They talked

fully peacea

it but was enough, kettle before it boils

our over.

like the We
ate to
our our

of peaceM singing

lunch, and retired to

own

tents.
our men

George
seemed

and

I went
on our

tent,and, taking
a

off Our

laid down boots,

blankets for

quietsmoke.

much very

upset by

the stories they had of qualities the

heard in

Maranga concerningthe
and
To

warlike

Wa'M'bu,

their condition could

only be
in
a

described

as

"jumpy."
of

put

it

they plainly,
careful

were

state pitiable
were

and fright,

needed

if handling, we their

to avoid

trouble with trouble would without that. To resume,

the natives
come

through

as indiscretion; own

quite soon

enough

of its

accord

George and

I had lain

half down, perhaps,

an a

hour, and

were

when quite comfortable and half asleep,

us

terrificaltercation caused
We
were our

to

jump

up

and in

rush outside.

El in time assist Hakim to just

men.

ing disarmforcibly the

of

Some

of them
a

were

in cartridges placing
a

breeches of their rifles ; natives and

were

few

yardsaway
a

vast

crowd

and t heir frantically brandishing spears

If
a

dubs

like demons. yelling

shot had

been

we fired,

should

have

been
was

in rather

for,as tightplace,

have

said,the camp
If the

and quiteopen,

defenceless. practically
are

Aldkuyu had rushed

would fatality

then the chances us, added

that

another

have been

to Africa's

already

O a* o o

62

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

remained
to

and quiet,
at

"1

Hakim

did not

think it neoessaiy

call

Oeorge

the the of rest midnight,

nightproving
proud.
before the
as
more on

uneventful,with
birth to six At
sun was

the

exceptionthat

our

fox-terrier gave
very

she o f which seemed puppies, struck camp, and

were

we daylight

away

the

much The the was same country fairly up. if the junglewas before, though, anything, day
The

dense. muhindi

shambas

were

filledto

with unripe overflowing and beans potatoes

were

and

sweet while pumpkins,

on

in growing

great profusion

side. every
as

the in Travelling

morning was early

on

the dew collected decidedly unpleasant,

was

the

shrubbery

shaken

down

upon

us

in

showers,
or a

wettingus

throughto
at

the skin.

We

crossed two

three

and small rivers,

midday
in put
an

reached and

camped
we

at

place

called Materu. The

a

chief

soon

and appeai^nce,

purchased
further

further

of in the food, supply

a

beans, shape of potatoes,

also obtained notorious M'bu
to

muhindi, and

little honey. We

information of the road

throughthe
not
seem

country
better

which, I

must

did confess,
nearer
we

have

any

the reputation

it. approached under

Our

Maranga Mends,

Eoranja, appeared very

the dreaded

dose their at frightened

to proximity

Wa'M^bu,
We

and intimated their intention of answered

that

to Maranga. returning
we

they mightgo when

we

them gave

permission,

but for the

answer

present

their services; with which required

content.

to be theyhad perforce next

The
same

morning we

travelled again cultivated

to

much through

the that

and denselypopulated

country

as

hitherto We
had

seemed it passed, though

not
as

get

more

mountainous.

yet got

view of Mount
a

Eenia^ as the sky

had been for days covered with

thick curtain of grey clouds.

FROM

THE

TANA

TO

M'BU.
we starting
was

63 should

Koranja
reach
a

infonned

us

that two
''

hours after

river called We

which Shelangow/'
sooner

the

boundarj

of M'bu. At
to

said the

the better.

midday,after some
as

be

"Br from

the

"

march, we appeared steady Shelangow as ever, thoughwe had

"

hours'

been informed that it was

for front)
over

''huko mbeli As the

justin (only kidogo"

men

three hours.

were

very tired.

El Hatdm

decided to camp, in

of Eoranja's spite energetic ''karibu kabissa'' with the constant

proteststhat the Shelangow was

(very

near). The country was

and

wet very

drizzle

mist, which made

between

the steep

clayeypaths exceedingly
the way led

while slippery,

the shambas

through
the
a

thickets of brambles

and

which nettles, stinging On

we halting,

caused

porters endless discomfort.

of shrubs ; not
case

built

boma
use

that

we

thoughtit
to

would
men

be of any

in We

of

an

attack,but
gave

give
to

the

confidence.

wrote

letters and

them

Eoranja, on
to

the remote thence

chance that
to
were

they would

get

down

Nairobi,and

England. (They did get down

delivered in

four months after

and later,

England

five months

they were

written*)
In
an

the

evening Koranja and his friends then bade

relieved farewell.
never see a

us

affectionate and

that they would parenthesis Wa'M'bu would

They remarked as us again,

to

in the

kill us certainly

all ;

belief that
all

probably
small

explained why they helped themselves

privatestock of lapsethat
"

our

sweet

potatoes before they left;a moral

"

for them ^luckily

^we

did not discover

us

till next

morning.
and

Our

men

sent

deputationto

during the

the o ut evening, pointing

o f perils the passage

a

Ifbu, through
most

that saying

we

should of

be killed, and certainty

we

likely eaten.

This

statement

received

with

polite

64

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

and incredulity,
not to do it

dismiBsed the

w ith deputation

warning

again.
was

Next formed
East

I morning in my

very

queer,
a

laigelump having
in complaint
to

This groin.

is

very

common

A"ica

and

due Uganda, supposedly

over-"atiga
thing someon ones

and

I think walking, though

to do with

climate and
two

diet have

it.

had Greoige
It
was

bad very second

his

way

down

from

Uganda.

my

of experience

them, and the oftener I suffered from them,

to be
as

them, the less I liked

The

painfuL theyare exceedingly

onlycure

seems

and rest, complete

hot fomentations

to applied

the

swelling.
We did not travel that
a

in day consequence, but

occupied
further
were

ourselves in information
not

buying
we or

littlefood and

what getting

could about the road ahead. about villages

"

There

many the
were

natives

fact

explained easily
where place
''no

by
we

of the M'bu contiguity

border.
of neutral

The

camped
day,
was soon

was

sort

or territory,

man's land." Next

set out for the Shelanafter daylight^ we

which gow, very

readied after a
It

march hours' of couple be

over

steep country.
we

proved to

merely

mountain
rose a

which torrent,

crossed. easily

On
we

the other side

of which the to hUl, top very steep

climbed,and found

ourselves at last in the country of the dreaded Wa'lfbu.

CHAPTER

IV.

FBOM

ITBU,

AOB038

EAST

KENIA,

TO

ZUBA.

First

a^

of

Eenia"

Hostfle
"

demonstrations

by the

M'bn

people"

We

imiffees by the
in

two

guides
"

^Passage tkrongh Mlra^-Demonstrations

Farewell
to

in force
"

inhabitants
"

M'bn

"

^The
"

guides desert

^Arriyal

Zuka

^Friendlyreception by the Wa^suka Igani

of Zura.
"

^Passagethrough Zuka
Welcome

"

^Muimbe" chief

Moravi

"

^Arriyal

at

Znra"

by Dirito,

the

In

order

that

there

should
as

be
our

no

misunderstanding
Hakim

on

the

part
to

of the
an

Wa'M'bu

to

calibre. El

determined

pursue
overt

aggressive policy,without, however, committing

act

any

We of their

accordingly
shambas,
in

pitched helped
of that be

our

camp

in

the

middle
to

of

one

and way be
must

ourselves
etc.

freely
Their had

anything
line

we

fancied

the

muhindi,
a

natural
the

of
to

reasoning
act

would
way

safari

which

efi"ontery

in

that

very

powerful, and

ahould The
what
we

therefore result

be

approached

with
our

caution. action which ;

was

entirely justified
as

only
always

expected,

with

bullying natives, might

is

right.
Ko
we

natives
many
morose

came

into

our

camp
in
so

"

bad

sign, though
They
no

saw

skulking
and

round but
on a

the far

bush. showed

seemed

very active and

sulky,
We
in
our

signs
the

of

hostility.
to

put

double but ;
we

guard
were

for
not

night,

went

sleep

clothes

disturbed.
F

65

66

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

We without

did not

travel the
as on

morning,as following
no

we

were we

and guides;

natives

came

into camp

resolved to Capture one At

sunrise
we

the firstavailable

opportunity.
Kenia, and
"

got

our

of Mount first glimpse Kenia

"

wonderful view it was.

and Swahilis,
" "

is called

''

Eilimaro

by the

Donyo Mountain) and Donyo Ebor (Black Egere (Spotted Mountain)by the Masai ; so called because
"

of

the

largeblack
too

patches

on

the main
snow

where peak,

the

sides are

for the precipitous describes

to

lodge.

Thompson^
thus:
"

his first

impressionsof Eenia
strained of setting the
sun,

''As

pious

Moslems
new

watch
moon we or now

with the

eyes the

appearance
to

of the

so begin their orisons,

waited for the

uplifting

of the

veil,to fleecy
The
were

render
sun

due

homage
western

to

the heaven-

Kenia. piercing
we sorrowfully

set in the

heavens, and
when

about

to turn

away,

suddenly

there

was

break in the clouds feurup in the

a

sky,and the

next moment

of the sun, and

white pinnacle dazzling caughtthe last rays and shone with a beauty, marvellous, spirit-lik it apparently immeasurable as off, by was, with the gross eartL
a

divine ; cut from

distance

all connection

The

sun's rays

went

off,and

then, with

softness like the that gloaming, with spirit

atmosphere of dreams, which

white

befitted the
some

peak
and

remained chastened

as

though
the

fair

subdued

at her evening expression lingered

devotions.

as Presently,

garishlightof day
a

melted

into the soft hues

and

mild

of effulgence became

moon-lit

night,
;

the and

mountain 'heaven-kissing'
then in its
severe

disrobed gradually

outlines and chaste

beauty it
"

stood

forth from
1
"

top

to

bottom, entrancing, meet awe-inspiring

222.

by JosephThompson, ThroughMasai Land,*' F.R.G.S., p.

FROM

M'BU,
for

ACROSS

EAST

KENT

A,

TO

ZURA.

67

reward

days

of

maddening wony
the sacred
stone

and

of nights

sleepleM
the
suror

anxiety. At
was

that moment what have

I could almost

feel that Eenia is to

to

me

of Mecca distant

who Faithful,

wandered

from

lands,

that theymight but moontingperilsand hardships,

see

kiss

the hallowed While I

am

and then,if it were object, unable

to

die." Gk"d's will,

of dizzy heights

rise to

the

rhetorical

or description,

revel in

the boundless

fields of

metaphor so successfully exploited by Mr. Thompson, I fully

endorse his remarks.
a

The first

of Eenia sight

does

produce
off with

remarkable does

on impression

the

traveller;an
find
"

impression exhibiting
One
can

which time.

not

"

one a

is

to surprised

wear

Eenia, like
charms

clever woman,
too often to the

is

of chary

her manifold

vulgargaze.
weeks, or
even

live at the base of the mountain

and
never

for

months,

get

of glimpse its magnificent peak.

not

We, however, could

were even now

stop

to romance,
our

as

the enemy
we were

clamouringwithout
turn
our

and gates;

to reluctantly compelled
a more

wandering attention
"die"

to

serious business. of that possibility

we

It

appeared quite within

should without

the
even

bounds

"hallowed the "kissing"

object" so ablyeulogized by Mr.

were

Thompson ;

as

the irreverent Wa'M^u in the thick bush

making

hostile camp"

demonstrations of regardless
our

our surrounding were

aestheticyearnings. They
means

apparently
in

trying
and

our

temper by

of

demonstration
I
never

force,

such awful

bowlingsas theymade
and

previously

heard. Our with

men

became

very

nervous,

fidgeted constantly
usual, quite undisturbed,
in

their guns, the and

with looking El
Hakim

strained gaze into the bush

was,
as

without

camp.

Oeorge and

I succeeded

keepingup

an

68

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND. to

appearance make way

of

condescended and calm, impassive

the
an noise, our

even
a

jokes about
towards

attitude which went who

on

long
have and

reassuring
nervousness or

men,

watched
our

us

constantly

Any signof
been
run as

fatal,
for the

the

men

anxiety scattered would have instantly

a

would part

with border,

foreseen. result easily

The

morning passedin this manner,

their while howling,
as we

the Wa'M'bu

tinuing con-

went

throughour
as

ordinary
we

camp

routine with

much

nonchalance

could

command. We
had

lived lately
to

largely upon
a

and vegetables,
we on

now

determined

giveourselves
an

so treat,

cooked ham

our

only
boiled the

ham, and
muhindi Wa'M'bu much very
as

made cobs.

excellent lunch the meal

and

During

the war-cries of
our men were

increased in volume, and disturbed.

plainly
direction

They
we
was

in kept looking
as

our

if for orders ; while untoward anything

came a

appeared

if

unaware utterly

that

happening.
the rifle at with his shoulder, up
or

Jumbi Presently and stood saluting,

was or
"

yard

so

away

from

the

table.

El Hakim
for
a
"

and busily eating,

two.

him studiously ignored

moment

looked he Presently up.

Yes ?

he said

inquiringly.
'' '

Jumbi

saluted again. The

"

Bwana Washenzi,*

"

said he.

''Well ?

El Hakim interrogated

again.
Bwana,
on a

"They
on arm

are

comingto attack us,

rear

this side and sweep

of his

that

with said Jumbi, indicating side,'"

of the camp. "I

the front and

"All lunch ; I And

men
were

said El Hakim, right,"

am

will

see

about it after

eating

now.

You

can

go."
went

Jumbi, saluting once

more,

off to where
of the

the

nervously waiting.His account

interview,

70

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA^LAND.

He
to his

much appeared

returned while and after a impressed,

our

and evidentlj delivered people,

message,

as

shortly

afterwards the We their

howlingceased.
the
men

mustered
arms

in the
we

and inspected afternoon,

were

and

ammunition,as
We trebled the

not at all trustful of

the Wa'M'bu.

but the night, guards during

contraryto

remained expectation, everything the

quiet.
old
them

Early on

following morning the

we

two

gentlemen

returned to camp, and them ioforming

as

made immediately
now

prisoners

that

they were
told
as

in

our

service, pro Um.,

be

if a nd false theywould us theyplayed guides,

instantly
it

shot.

Our
as

we object,

them, was

to

their get through

country

and safely

and as possible, expeditiously

our was object

rested with themselves whether

accomplished
Mends

without inconvenience to the inhabitants. that theywere earnestly They both protested
so our

at 9 a.m.,

havingstruck

camp,

we

commenced
prove

what, by

the

bade fair to generalindications,

the crucial march

of the safari. The

country
M'bu

was

very

and rugged,

most

vated. densely cultiWe

seemed of

to be

in rich food. prodigiously

saw
as

thousands far
as

acres

plantedwith muhindi, stretching

There
were no

the eye

could reach.

boundaries the perhaps the

between

the shambas.

It occurred to

us

that

Wa'M'bu, unlike the other tribes of A'kikuyu, owned

ground

in common,

but

we

had

no

of opportunity
to
us

deciding
had
us en

this point, as the Wa'M'bu

of degree any

did not appear

to encourage
we

intimacy.

Indeed, soon
to make

after the start

proofsthat they meant

route.

matters

for lively

When head

we

left camp.

El Hakim

with
I

one

guidetook
the

the
rear

of the

column, and Geoige and

broughtup

FROM

M'Bir,

ACROSS

EAST

KENIA,

TO

ZURA.

71

with the other.

At every
oiur

of crowds warriors, cross-path great ominous in passage

on onr rear

follyarmed,
soon as a we

watched

silence. As
and

closed in they passed of two

or

followed

at

distance

three hundred

their numbers yards,

augmented by being continnally them on the road. The path lay throughnarrow
and who
manner on

other bodies who

joined

valleys,
insulting

the

heights
at

on

each side

were

more
us

bodies of natives
a

shouted that

and us,

informed

in
us.

most

theywere
a

coming

to kill

did They really looked things

our

seem

inclined to try conclusions with us, and

very
us

nasty

for

time,whilst
sort of

we

needed

all

wits about
men.

to preserve

some

discipline among
a

our

George
rear, when

and

had especially

task in difficult the very

the small crossing

many in the road.

which of or rivers, spruits, It

was

there

were

no

to task easy

keep

off the armed

bands

of natives
we

w ithout moral force, by simply the

a shot,whilst filing

unloaded

donkeys, refractory
a on

and

half

pushed half draggedthem

loaded

across unwillingly

rocky little staream,and

safari would alone with have the six
over

again
left
as

the other

side.

In the mean-time, in consequence

moved
on

of the

main the delay,

and and

and George
men,

myself
with

donkeys
or

many

and

something
within two attack At
us.

three

four hundred

Wa'M'bu aggressive minds their up

to

hundred

to make yards trying

such times

George and

I, leavingJumbi
our

to

the get

would across, donkeys and direct

our

face round with

to guide
a

at the rifles

ready,

reluctant

inform the

his

bloodthirsty

Mends

that if

they came

step nearer

Wa'sungu would

them slay

with their guns.

an

Our determined
we

no attitude, doubt, an

prevented

actual

but collision,

had

exceedingly
a

anxious time, beingwithin measurable

distance of

violent

72

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

death
If
we

on

several occasions relaxed

our

memorable that during

one

marcL
we

had

for vigilance

instant single
a

should

a nd at have been attacked, undoubtedly could

tremendous

It disadvantage.

only

have

had

one

ending
"

an

endingwhich would have beingpenned. why

very The
we

this eflfectually prevented still undecided without

as
a

tion descripreason

am

to the fracas.

that march accomplished

numerous

The

Wa'M'bu, beinga
weak

and imUed

are, therefore, people,

dangerousto

tackle in

their mountain

fastnesses.

in most spot

of the other tribes of that ruled

r^on

is the fact that and have

no

they are
no

cohesion and had

to

petty chiefs, by numerous real no strengtL consequently

van

El Hakim

inconsiderable task in the the other

an

of the

as he had safari,

keep his eye upon

order in guide

to to

him prevent

firom leading us into

ambush, and had also

his verify This

course

by compass.
lasted tillsundown, when
on

march nerve-wearying
a

we

reached

cleared shamba partially camp. There

the crest of
no

rounded
a

and pitched hill, our

were

materials for

boma,
the and

so

.that

we

were

to depend for safety obliged during

on night

constant
our

watchfulness.

We

trebled the sentries, weapons within easy

in slept
we

clothes, keepingour
not disturbed.

reach ; but

were

I do not
a played

think the Wa'M'bu of pure

quiteunderstood

us.

We

game

to blufif and, throughout, strange say,

no

it answered

I perfectly, thoughpersonally have

"

wish to

not without repeat the experienceat least,

much

larger
were

of quantity

ammunition
to

than

we

then carried.
us,

They

strong enough
doubt

have

annihilated utterly

though no
three

theywould

have suffered in the process ; and it speaks

man

well for the

of the white prestige

that
most

we

were

able to pass unharmed

throughthe

difficultpart of

FROM

M*BUy

ACROSS

EAST

KENIA,

TO

ZURA.

73

their country, literally suironnded

men. fighting

by

thousands

of their in the

Our

men forty as

did not coont for much them

eyes

of the

Wa'M'bu,

theyknew

to be natives like

and themselves, their guns. After

and

o f in easily disposed comparatively

of spite

our pitching

camp

we

the two interrogated would take

us

guides,
out of

found

that another hour's march

M'bu

with called and into another Zuka, altogether, country

were

the inhabitants of which the Wa'M'bu As

we

at

enmity.
of the
on

were
we

not
were

piningfor the further company

up

Wa'lTbu,
do not
we early

and

moving

before

daylight
that

the

In these cold following morning.

turn
were
over

natives t he mistyhighlands
so

out

till the

sun

is well up,

by starting
attentions,
we

safe firom their unwelcome perfectly the border before

and

were

they realized that

of the two but
we

had

hence. departed To
our

disgust,
we

found that

one

had guides

managed
of the

to escape

the during
was

night ;

hold tight kept another of his After

a

other,who
we

presently joinedby
two
on seen

so that fiiends^

still felt safe about

the road.

difficult over tramp,lasting

we one

thick jungle, hours,through the

unexpectedly emerged
of the have
a

edge of
feet

vast

ravine,
It

I largest have been

across.
so

round

Mount

Kenia.

must

several hundred The sides

deep, and

perhaps
at
an

half

mile

down sharply sloped

was

of angle

120^

that descent

One impossible. quite that it had been cut clean

could

fancy from

its appearance

into the lower the bottom

was

of Eenia slope the

by

Titanic sword-stroke. which served

as

At the

foaming torrent
and Zuka. the

boundary between Having

river there

M'bu

learned from
was
a

down that further guides

we

the
we

where place

should be able to cross,

74

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

resumed

our

march

in that

our direction, and,forcing

way
we

skirted throughthe jungle, found the

the crest of the ravine until the sides of the ravine down

crossing. Though
rude

were

still terribly we steep, bottom

was

scrambled

somehow, and

at ihe

found

bridgethrown
with
a

across

the stream.

It

but simply a tree-trunk,

littlecare animals
a

the whole
we

to the other side. The party got safely across, firsttakingthe

swam

to tie precaution
over

their round rope

necks. landed
most

We them

then

pulledthem

to the other

bank, and
alive and

but safely, unappredative perhaps,

certainly kicking.
As it
was

then

about

ten

we o'clock,

sat
a

down

and

breakfasted, passingthe time

of Wa'M'bu, who had

of

day

with

small crowd the

on slope

bj
we we

this time collected on

the side of the ravine At eleven o'clock

was

had

justquitted.
the marcL
was

resumed

If the

jungle

in HiTbu

bad,this side of the ravine

and terrific,
on were

ten times worse,

being
bottom Palms

one

wall of impenetrable
was
we

T he vegetation.

heat at the

all felt its effects severely.

grew

with side, intermingled every in their turn

giantforest

which trees,

covered with exotic creepers*

with interlaced and climbing orchids, rattans, thickly plants,

which formed
of the

solid wall

right extending up
strike.

to the summit

ridge.
two
now guides

Our

went

on

They

demanded be killed

to
on

be released, as

they declared
We

that

they would
us

sightby
such
an

the Wa'zuka.

offered to protect them

from

untimelyfate if theyled
we

to the top of the safely to

and ridge ; M'bu.

promisedto send
seemed
a

an

escort back with them

were

They

and satisfied, A moment

to permitted
was a

in go

front to find
a

path.

later there

rush and

and then dead silence. George and I hurried up. scuffle,

FROM

M'BU,
found
El

ACROSS

EAST

KEN

I A,

TO

ZURA.

75

and

their himself t o over swearing softly sudden disappearance. It seemed that they had suddenly ronnd a slipped tree-tnmk, and vanished before anybody knew We
earth
we

Hakim

what had looked

were

happened.
at blankly

each other, and wondered

how

on

goingto

reach the top.

so there, we

However, wondering
called up two
to cut
a an or

would
men a

not

us transport

three

with few

axes

and knives,and set them

moments
was

they discovered
overgrown
as

the remains of be almost

path. In old path,

which

so

to

obliterated. In

it places and

had been

blocked deliberately

tree-trunks with up
a

logs, evidently by the Wa'zuka, as raids by their warlike neighbours, which

tiona

defence

against

defensive prepara*

certainly gave
we

us

vast amount

of trouble.

Upwards

toiled in the

and heat,streaming broiling

two

half blinded with

we

After perspiration. about

a a

hours' hard work reached and up,

a

had climbed

third of the way

little open down for and

a

space

few feet square, where, tired out, we

some

sat

to

rest,while

of the

men

were

sent

on

to search

path.
trees.

All egress,

however,was
a

barred

by heavy logs
fires kindled

We

then formed
a a

and with axes, workingparty

we

set them and

to cut

way

w hile through,

had

of partook In
an

little food.
or so

hour

we

heard

shouts glad

from

our

men,

mingledwith
to

the

blows of their axes vigorous

the and then ;

We
went

voices of natives
see

them. to shouting encouragingly

what
aware

was

Wa'zuka a nd the found that happening,

of
our

had

become the

with also at enmity and, being presence, for that

reason

Wa'M'bu,
came

were

welcoming us warmly.
men

They
We

down

to us, and assisted our

to demolish

the

the path, bairioades, by their aid, beingsoon

cleared. half-hour's

restmied the march, and

after another

76

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

upward
we

toil reached

the top. Several times

a

on

the way

up

of passedmoulderingcorpses
an we

party

of
some

Wa'lTbu, who
before. days

had made When

ill-advised attempt at arrived at the top

before
sun. our a

raiding

scene

of wonderful

beauty
rays

lay

spread out

in the red eyes, glowing

of the

setting of smiling plantations

the
of figures
women as

with covered uplands, Gently rolling muhindi and and sugar-cane, dotted with their completing
see.

children
the

daily

task, stretched
between
were

far

as

could eye

The

valleys

with the thin

and slowly filling alreadyin twilight, up at these mist that highlands envelopes grey

sunset, there
morrow.

remainingtill the advent

seemed
so

of the

sun

on

the

The

scene

and peaceful

stillthat I became
as we

absorbed in

of beauties its contemplation I

strode

along.

I kicked something as Presently

lessly carewalked, and,looking as a

down,
head

started and
of my

shuddered A
a

mutilated human
an

rolled out

path.
me

and roimd, glance

mistakable un-

odour,showed
devoured tially the
comer

little pileof corpses, par^ which hyssnas,

were

by

the vultures and

in lay

of the little we plantation

of relics crossing, from

the aforesaid Wa'M'bu

raiders. A few

putrefying heap a
their bent assisted gardens,
ones

of women, group
were

yardsaway to with babies strapped

and

the

backs,

beans planting

their weeding

by

the elder children ; while the younger

played and
a

prattled among
or

the
It

of unconscious dirt,
was a

the

tragedy yard

two

away.

objectstriking

lesson of the native's callous death. At sunset and

of the o f disregard presence

the

Mendly

Wa'zuka

conducted

us us

to

ing-place camp-

some

of the elders

brought

of presents
were

which and bunches of bananas, sugar-cane green

divided

FROM

M'BU,
our

ACROSS

EAST

KENIA,
was

TO

ZURA.

77

among

men.

The

sugar-cane
a

and George excellent,

and I consumed
to promised

quite
us a

Before large quantity.

they leaving

send

guide by the

first thing in the

so

morning.

fancythe Wa*zuka, though they were

us

Mendly, were
as quickly

anxious to pass
and possible,
us,
so

along to
us.

the next

district as

be rid of

did They evidently

not
a

not

trust

with and, in fact, us regarded without

littlefear, as, having

HiTbu through passed concluded

was

being hurt, they naturally

that it

that

we

must
us

be very strong indeed,and with due

for
a

advisable to treat

which, after all, respect,

The
we

is the proper frame of mind

our

native.

knowledgeof
had

security gave
some

us

better night's rest than

enjoyed
at

for

tima

As the
seven course

promisedguidehad
we morning,

not

made

his appearance

o'clock next

set out without

him, and of
followed

lost ourselves in consequence. in and out of extensive

to

The

path we

wound

of plantations sugar-cane, and

eventually broughtus
It
was

the

edge of

another

of the vast Eenia.

ravines that radiate from their common much

our

Mount centre.
we
were

too

steep

to

descend,and
now

forced to
our

retrace

steps. We
led We
us

were

overtaken
a

by

dilatory
of the As the

who guide, direction.

by

good

in path

more

north-westerly
m'wele.

spent the

in morningdodging and out

and of muhindi, plantations sugar-cane, sugar-cane

was

and just ripe,

of

good

size and

splendid

I and and the Geoige quality,

men

enjoyedourselves. quite
to the cultivation

Large

areas

of the country were

as

given up

of bananas, but the fruit was Late in the afternoon

now
our

yet green and hard.

us

guideinformed
were
"

that

we

were

out of Zuka

and

on

the border of the Imbe

country. He

further remarked and would be

that the Wa'Imbe

to

bad very

people,"
for
us.

sure

make

thingsimcomfortable

78 The

THROUGH

KIKUYU not

TO

GALLA-LAND.

prospect did

alann

us,

however, as, after equal to

our

in HiTbu, we experience

considered onrselves
we

any
a

littletribe

so thereabouts;

dismissed

our

guidewith

present.
We when had
I shot

been
a

for vegetarians

so coupleof days, were

that

while partridge,
our

the tents

beingpitched,
does
not

the addition to
one

larder

was

greatly thou^ appreciated, hungry

men

small

bird between

three

go

far. very
On

the
our

morning we following

packed
a

up,

and, having

consulted
was soon

for about cast compass,

found

path. A faint track in direction the we approximately leading

For
some

wished to travel

hours

we

followed it here

ov^

very tiiere

rough

and gravelly

rocky
we

with country,

and

white of outcrops
Late

quartz.
came

in the afternoon

to

between rushingtumultuously and smooth

was as

grey

swift stream, deep, walls, as granite pendicu pera

dock-walL

This

narrow

gorge

spannedby
"

rude

of bridge, consisting El Hakim

three

rough
"

was and ahead, rough very his mule. walked across leading Halfway dismounting, in and and mule the fell, to slipped across endeavouring again,and finally herself, slipped recover plungedwith a the stream into 20 feet below. She turned terrific splash over
as

^hewn

planks.

she felland struck her back

on

knob projecting

on

wall the cliff

the Fortunately, saddle saved her back

from

saddle itself the was broken, though being She

for

badly ripped.
under

beneath disappeared
some
rose

the

and remained surface,

was

time.
to the

We

feared she

drowned,but presently
a

she

her head in surface, shaking

very

dii^roste
current.

manner,

and started
two

the against swimming bravely

One

or

of the

men

and joinedher. jumped off the bridge

FROM

M*BU,
in

ACROSS

EAST

KENIA,

TO

ZURA.

79

and succeeded half

an

tnmmg

her head down-stream with up her

and ;

about

hour
swum

later

they turned
ashore.
were a on

unharmed quite
a

They had theyhad

sent down

down-stream

till theyfound The

where ford,
were

scrambled
to the
a

rest of the animals

across

ford,and

got

without
a

difficulty

There

was

hill with large

we

flat summit

few hundred

yardsaway, and
The

camped

the top. and dry,

bom
we

day

had

been

hot and exceedingly

were

found

that all the

were

that except one, pnppies, The

man

in

Maranga
sun

dead.

who
over

carried the bucket the top to

containing
firom

them had put his blanket

keep the

them,and they had

did not We
seem saw
a

been

suffocated. concerned.

Their mother however

to be much

lot of natives did not the

hanging about
them
our

on

the
any

adjacent
nearer,
were

but heights, in bearing

now

encourage

to

come

mind

warning of
were on

Zuka

guida

We

Imbe i n the fairly

and country, inclined to be

the next

would day

decidewhether
The next

they

or otherwise. friendly

morning

the march resuming The

the character

of the coimtry

againchanged.

quartz boulders and

scenery.

s tretches gravelly gave stretches of Lovely with

trees. stately

placeto pretty woodland

at

occurred greensward

dotted intervals, tall sycamores

are

baobabs Magnificent
numerous.

and

were fig) (Egyptian

The sycamores

called
not

by
in

the Swahilis fruit It

was

*'

Mikuyu.'' Unfortunately, they were

the smooth
stems gigantic
some

to see refreshing quite

green grass
gave

dotted with the

OS

of the

baobabs,which

the idea of

beingin
we

beautiful
some

park.
headed
us

Presently

encountered
our

of the Wa'Imbe

to their chief, who, by

welcomed astonishment,
our helping men

most

insisted on They ostentatiously. their loads, and

on

to cany

that learning

we

wished

to camp,

the

8o

THROUGH out pointed

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

chief

an

open tents

that space

appearedto
and
we

be

the

Our market-place. the shade grateful

as

were accordingly

beneath pitched made

of

of sycamores, group
as

ourselves what

comfortable

inwardlywondering possible, usually Mendly

held
a

this more prompted

we

than
we

attitude. the three

After

had

eaten

and ''shaurie/'
some

mystery
months

was

explained. It appeared that

are

before,the Wa'Igani,who
on

the

neighboursof
smote

the Wa'Imbe

the north,arose

in their

might and

the Wa'Imbe Wa'Imbe

to make
were

of tiiem spoiling sorely, many

not

sheep.

The

strong enough or
our

not

courageous

enough
should their

hailed and reprisals,

anrival with great joy aa

we

possible avengers.
accompany
lost
our

They calmlyproposedthat incidentally anythiogelse

was

them, attack the Wa'Igani,and

recover
we

and property, hands

a on

could

lay

that

worth
answer

We annexing.
to

dismissed them
we

with

diplomatic

the

effect that

would

consider the matter.

That I night felt very queer I

and feverish, and

we

turned

in

early.
in that I

got

no

a nd when sleep,
was

started off
I had
were

earlythe
affected
same

I following morning

ill indeed. very

culty great diffiso

sitting
on as on

the

mule, while my
to see.

eyes

was

hardlyable
the

We

traversed much

the

country

but being day before, onlyhalf conscious, interest in the scenery.

in consequence
we

I did not take much

a

El HaMm

had
a paratively com-

touch of fever

and also,

made
at

short march, and

I went
to bed
as

halted and

camped

mid-day.
a

and immediately,
I
was

the rest of the The

day was

blank
I
was

far

as

concerned. and
so

too

ill to move,

the

following morning in day was passed quietly

went

camp. and

I grew
a

better towards
on

and evening,
a

outside

lay in

blanket

the grass under

baobab tree.

FROM

M'BU,

ACROSS

EAST

KENT

A,

TO

ZURA.

8i

The Wa'Imbe
was

chief made

us

of present

which sheep,

very

acceptable, as, with the

we

o f exception that

solitary days.
so

in Zuka, partridge The next better that

we we on

had had

no

fresh meat

for six
was

I day, thonghvery sick and dizzy,

mnch

resumed

our

march, and travelled for three

breakfiBtsted.After
an

hours,when
rest
we

halted and

hour's
we

went

in At the afternoon four o'clock again.

we were

discovered that hither and

were

in

IganL
no

We

saw

natives

hurrying hostility. ready to

thither among

their shambas, but of signs

thoughthey

rather
we

showed noisy, they

open

When Once

camped theycame
our

and visited us in rather

numbers. large
more so

in

camp

they appeared
a use

and quarrel,
were

made

deal of

noise; so much
the

that
our

we

compelledto
a

force to dear

camp,

men

them belabouring which had

more

soundly with

the butts of their rifles,

once

very

as they at effect, salutary

much grew
away,

and respectful later with

well behaved.
some

They
of green

went

and
a

returned

bunches
as a

bananas
came

and

jar of very fair honey

present.

They

back
to make

eady the
"

muma

"

and desired morning with a sheep, with us ; an honour we (blood-brotherhood)

next

declined

for the present, their t o apparently great disappointment. We dust of

our

then

and departed,
our

shook travelling rapidly,

next

the
on

Iganifrom
was

feet. The
we

littlekingdom
an

route

Moravi, which

crossed in El Hakim

hour

or

two,

and We

entered finally
were now

Zura, where

was

well known. the comprises small

in the limeru

which district, contains

whole

of North-East

Eenia, and
over

numerous

each ruled districts,

by
are

diate its petty chief. In the imme-

of Zura vicinity

O'nainu, N'dakura, Munithu,

the north-east

Eatheri, and
beni

Karanjui

To
are

lay the Jom-

mountains, which

inhabited

by the Wa'Emba
o

82

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

Between

the Jombeni

mountainfl and
'*

Earanjuiwas
"

small

of hills called range between The named He his

had

yarionsly Chanjai

or

''

and Janjai,''

Chanjaiand Embe
destinies of Zora
who ''Diiito/'
even
was

resided the Wa'Mthara.

were a

presided
Mend great

over

by

Masai

of "1

Hakim's.
in

then

some

cattle belonging to El Hakim

met presently
a

charge. We

were

by Dirito himself,a
as a

man fine-looking

with

good reputation
see

who fighter,
us

appearedvery pleasedto
We

welcomed and ns, which village,

soon was

warmly.

camped just outside

a
a

his

surrounded

by
us

and very strong stockade,

of quantity

afterwards he

brought

honey and

some

milk for our

refreshment

84 food

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.
on

and then went theyrequired,

to Embe.

They
even

were,

by

all accounts,welcomed

by

the Wa'Embe, The

next

who

made

blood-brotherhood with

them.

warning their
force of the

camp

was some

night without rushed by a large treacherously

of their cattle and
men

Wa'Embe,

trade

goods
of

and beinglooted,

nine of their

killed

They outright.
and his Jamah

managed

to make

good

their retreat with the remainder

met

their caravan, and at Munithu

Jamah

Mahomet

party coming up.

advised them
would be
at

They

and asked their assistance, received and few

news

Mahomet, having somehow

that El Hakim Munithu
in
a

of

our

approach, Wasungn
El

the other two and days,

so

that suggested waited.

theyshould wait and consult them,

Hakim heard their account
to consider the

had they

and after promising of the afbir,

matter, he and

G^rge

returned to Zura.
we

After breakfast the

morning following
we
were

moved

bag and by

baggageover
tiie old chief,

to

Munithu, where

well received
an

Bei-Munithu, grey-headed
The
we

old firiendand
same

allyof El
just
with

Hakim's.

Somalis did not

had
see

started the them. We

morning for M'thara,so

lunched

outside Bei-Munithu's the old rascal. He

It had
a

meanwhile conversing village,

brought

us

some

thorn splendid

honey.
much

very

acid pleasant is about

taste, which

we

Munithu appreciated.

5000 feet above

warm,

sea-

moist and the climate being level, very

thoughcold
over

at

night. Bei-Munithu
El Hakim t o belonging in

had

of trade quantity large

goods

stored at his

village,

loads forty
some

besides fact,

two

or

three dozen head

of cattle and

donkeys.
After lunch
we

started for
In

which Earanjui,
an

is

sort

of

halfwaycamp

to M'thara.
one

hour

or

so

we

reached the

forest that stretches in

unbroken

belt

round Eenia. right

Z(/RA

TO

M'THARA,

AND

VISIT

TO

EMBE.

8$
on now
a

It

was

almost

El Hakim, but fortunately impenetrable,

cut
a

former

had expedition, It
was a

which it, path through and

we

followed.
trees

weird and

the f orest, gloomy-looking direction with

being

twisted

in tangled every

out-spreading branches which, growing low down, made ridingimpossible. One would look in vain for a straight
tree-trank
or

branch.

Nature

had
sorts

amused apparently of curious and

self her-

by twistingthem into all

fantastic

shapes.

The

men a

with dlent through crept rifle or

and footsteps,
a

of the rattle only

the feeble twitter of

solitary
the

bird broke
way
we

the intense stiUness of the

some

On semi-twilight. hombills.

I noticed

black-and-white
an

Presently
the

reached

Earanjui,
In the

oval

i n depression

ground,

perhaps700 yards long and

dear of trees. time of
our

500

yardswide, and perfectly

it is swampy,
a

rainyseason

but at the

visit it was covered with

quite dry except for

coarse

pool at camped

one

end,
the

and

grass.

All
we

round

it and

beyond
Near El Hakim before.
to tell us

stretched the

silent forest.

Here

for

night

Earanjui
had After had
our

live the
a

Tomori

with people,

whom
months

difference of
we as

opinion
follows
:

some

meal evening it was Briefly Munithu

to

El persuaded
"

Hakim

the yam.

from Travelling

he IkCthara,
at

was

passing
On

t o forest the belt, intending camp through

Earanjui
and

his arrival there he foimd

that two

of his

porters were
some

missing.
hour

He

thereuponsent

his headman

other

for them. forest look to the back into porters

an or

They returned

two
were

later with the mutilated bodies of the

all perforated
over

missing

men,

which

with

and spear-woimds with "simes"

hacked also horribly

and

chopped

about

swords). (native

Their loads had

altogether. disappeared

S6

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

El Hakim

directions for the safari to gave go

men,

on

with their

four and, selecting camping arrangements,

set out

immediately

for the

o f village the Tomori

chief. Arrived there, That

he stood

outside and

summoned

him.

worthy

soon
as a

wairiors or fifty sixty swaggeredout, accompaniedby

and bodyguard, El his

demanded insolently

ness. |the M'sungu's busi-

Hakim,

through his
asked should be

stated interpreter, quietly

men

a nd grievance,

that the young

who for

had

murdered

his servants

givenup

to him

ment punish-

also that his ; The chief

missingtrade goods should be restored.

and his face,

laughedin by

his to turning

admiring

the M'sungu's followers, demand, which derisively repeated

was

received

shout El
a

of

accompanied by laughter,
direction. The chief insolent manner,

in threatening gestures

Hakim's
most

againturned

to

him, and in
him

shaking
with

his spear, bade

his words begone,accompanying

never

El Hakim contemptuous gestures.

moved

but hair,

repeatedhis quietly
were

demand,
he

if the murderers that adding

not

given

up

would him

hold

the

chief

personally
this himself

and responsible

deal with

When accordingly. the chief worked

warning was
into
a

to him, interpreted

and rage

to violently proceeded haranguehis warriorB.

Suddenlyhe
at

turned

made and, with uplifted spear, forthwith

a

rush
men

El

Hakim, who

shot him.

His

four

simultaneously poured
from which his escort

into the excited crowd volley

to the shelter of the

of

who immediately fled warriors,

village,
and
to

point of vantage theypeppered El Hakim

with

poisoned arrows.
Hakim

Walking

round

the

back of the

El village.
a

discovered his

missingloads
and possession
a

at the foot of
on

thrown where they had been hurriedly tree,

He

his appearanca

promptlyrecovered

started for camp,

but had

of a barely quarter gone

mile

ZURA

TO

M'THARA,

AND

VISIT

TO

EMBE.

87

when

the

waniors,reinforced by others from

an

neighbouring
his little
to camp

made village^ force.

ngly
now on

rush from

the

rear

npon go
on

his Telling

men frightened an

to

with all speed, he sat

at shooting

ant-hill and
was

in pat

some

Ceuicy
his

short range, which

a

by interpreted rightly
and
not

assailants as

hint to

keep away
and

crowd

him, a hint

acted npon with considerable promptitude.He they wisely then camp. his men, rejoined Several times
on theyproceeded

their way

to

the during

next

hour the natives tried

to rush the littleparty,but whenever

near

they got unpleasantly

tactics with continued

El Hakim

former his repeated

success,
were

until the

crestfallen warriors realized that kicks than

out halfpence

they

more getting

of the game, killed and in

a

and

withdrew sullenly Hakim El ;

with the loss of twelve

to camp, returning

wounded the
very

serene perfectly
a

knowledgethat
We

he had

come

out

of

bad business in

manner. satisfactory

left Karanjuiearly next second

an

morning and
we

re-entered the
were

forest belt,the of three-quarters

part of which

not

quite
and
open

hour in

The crossing.

character of the

country
coarse,

now

the dense changed considerably,

bush
to

rank

v^tation of

east

Kenia

giving way

with small plains

rockyhillsscattered here and there.

now

The

level of the country situated

than

descends

M'thara slightly,
200 sea-level,

being

about

4500 To
our

feet above

feet less

Munithu.

right

rose

the succession of rounded

are

known prominences

as

which Chanjai,

inhabited
many

by

tribe who, Masai

In

though reallyA'kikuyu,show
They
rose

marked

characteristics.

are

war-like and the

treacherous. the
we

some front,

miles away,

of frowningheights

Jombeni
were

inhabited range,

by

the

Wa'Embe, with whom acquainted. On

destined shortly

to become

better

the

SS

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

at slopes,

the foot of the Jombeni

Mountains, and

ward to west-

of Mr.

them, reside the Wa'Mthara

so

who people,
he

gave
in

Ghanler^
to

much
we

trouble when
were

visited Eenia

1893,and
We
more

whom
now

making our

way.

were

about 4600

feet above

and sea-level,
The heat

not

than ten miles north of the

Equator.

during night, |

the
a

day

was

but 100** 110"* from to Fahr., varying very great,

cold north wind

blew in the

and evening

the during
a

and made
was

the temperature droppedto about

an

60^

variation which
The

overcoat
a

comfortable after sundown. cultivated

ground
patches.

of had

nature, and gravelly

said

in only

We

good-byeat
or

the all to Earanjui

were

forest shady

trees, eta, which coniferon,

by replaced

the

inhospitable
our

thorny acacia
Doum

umbrella
two
men

thorn,and farther north, the

henceforth to be
constant

which palm,

were

companions. The
umbrella inches

all turned to and made

themselves the

it being impossible to walk sandals, thorn flourishea The thorns

barefoot where
are

white,several
out

long,and
wind

sharp. They stick wonderfully

a

from

the branch in all directions, that when so off the

twig is

broken

j
j

by the

or

fallen the other cause, any

a

twiglying on
as /rise, some

ground resembles spines

are

miniature

chevava de

of the

for in wait lying upwards, alwayspointing

|
i

the bare foot of the unwary. The chief of ITthara In his

was

is

an

old

man

named
as a

N'Dominuki.
and warrior,

youth

he had

great reputation

commonly
he

credited with the with his

own on

various times a t slaughter spear. It is uncertain

I
I

of

men thirty-five

whether
at any
'

in the attack joined

no

Mr. Chanler's of him

expedition ;
in that

rate,

mention

is made

by

name

Astor AM, William Chanler, Through Jungleand Desert," by (Hanr.), FJLG.S.,pp. 168-177.
1
"

ZURA

TO

M*THARA,

AND

VISIT

TO

EMBE.

89

book; explorer's
Neumann's

his first appearance

in

in being print of Neumann's, Neumann reckoned

book/ he being a great Mend

of experience very laige

in fact, made having, had had

a

blood-brotherhood with him. and natives,

soon

Mr. N'Dominukl up he very

and

At the outset
to that
man

of their

acquaintance,

plainlyintimated
with dealing the other hand,

worthy that Mendship

would

fair

the white

certainly pay,

and, on

not. certainly

would as and hostility treachery N'Dominuki, being no longerin the first old
and wise enough
was we

flush of

youth, was
as

take to enough

the

and hint,

will be seen, he

by
ever

far the most

honest and He

old trustworthy
had
a

that savage

had

with. dealings

Neumann. admiration blood-brother for his very great

On

one

occasion he told he
men

us

that Neumann

was

''

very
me me

good
that well

white man, other white if I

were

and the truth, alwaysspoke

he told
treat

who

might

come

here would

Mendly
even as

to them

and gave them I have

food and

guides ;

and it is

he said.

and alwaysspoken truly

I
am a

the helped

white men, had had

now and, behold,

rich man."
on

El Hakim

N'Dominuki w ith dealings

was

several the old

in his

occasions who chie^

and previously,

very

Mendly
cattle and

with

had

number

of cattle

him to belonging trade

charge.El Hakim
scattered all He had also wire buried Hakim's doth
or

seemed North
or so

to have

goods
iron

over
a on

Eenia

in

natives. various of charge

score

and of loads of brass, copper,

the Waso
to Aladdin's

Nyiro.

I
If

likened mentally
we

El

head

wire,El Hakim

or lamp. speaking, would, metaphorically a

wanted

cattle

rub his head, and lo ! after

announce

moment's such

would he cogitation,
a

that buried in such and

in East

spot

few

days'
H.

"Elei^iantHnnting

Africa," by Equatorial

Arthur

Neumann, pp. 42,43.

90

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

march

away,

or

in

chargeof

such and

such

chief not

far

were distant,

the identical articleswe

an

required.
a.m"

We half
a

reached mile

acacia forest at 10 the

about Inside,

from

border, was
which
we

somewhat clearing
camp. An

in Karanjui, resembliog hour

our or so

our pitched

afterwards old N'Dominuki

down

himself, hearing of
us

came arrival,

and

welcomed

warmly.
the

The

Somalis had not yet arrived, they apparently havingdiverged

at

EaraDJui to Ghanjai N'Dominuki

confirmed
was

news

of the
know

mishap to
what

Noor
we

Adam's

and safari,

curious to

steps

intended

taking. We
an

did not

satisfy
had

Ids

not curiosity,

to express wishing

until we opinion

heard all the available evidenca

us

The old chief

to his

stayedwith

until the
on man

withdrew t hen evening, the

was morrow

pronusing village, bring us food.

to return

with his
one

and people

The

old

at

time

the paramount chief of the

turbulent had

his Wa'Mthara, but with increasing power age

so

weakened, gradually
control

that he
own

now

exercised the

plete com-

only

over

his

and village

people

around. livingimmediately still

and appreciable,

His

influence, however, was

of

his

knowledge

passingevents
A

absolute. Our camp

we

found

most

windy. inconveniently
made
to

and blew and day, gale night strong uncomfortable. The

tents

thingsvery
very

had

be fastened down

and additional guy-ropes rigged, then they and even firmly thrashed and shook in a most alarming mcumer, threatening every
moment to to blow

bodilyaway.
and

It

was

when

we

sat

down

meals, however, that the real fun

began.

The

aluminium the table grass many

plates
by
a

were

now

again
were

whirled

off right

sudden

fierce gust,and
The cups

in disappeared
down kept

the the

yards away.

by

92

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

and sometimes others,

of

even

among
an

civilizedpeoples, a policy
of ness. weakacknowledgment
a

is "masterlyinactivity" These savages

are

civil to

safari of

only

in

direct it

to their idea of proportion enters

its power
are

reprisal Once

their heads that

of danger

they

the stronger, that 8a"aii is in need

a

imminent

and would attack,

a

resolute very
to

backed with defence,

its prevent

of laigequantity

ammunition,

extirpation.
were

If that

the worst go,

we as we

had

to

we fear,

could have gone

near

afforded to let matters

need

not

have

Embe;

but all the If

tribes had neighbouring

we

been
some

closely
way
our

watchingevents.
were

failed to restore

in

lost prestige, should have all the natives, we even

at
we

those who in that

is

present

our

Mends,
a

down

on

us

also,and

case

should be in

very

awkward
a

predicament.It
a plunder caravan

not often that these natives

get

chance to

which,to them, seems

When
I say
our

to

be laden with incalculable riches.

I what mean, precisely

lost

I say prestige,

do as I have previously for, remarked, these ignorant savages

not

discriminate between

one

safari and

whether another,

it
to.

is

European,Arab, or Swahili
The
on

and do neither ;

they wish
at

combined the

Somali

safaris reached M'thara arrival.

day mid-

our day following us

"

They proceededto
amusing
each
to see

camp
"

near

with

much

noise of

shoutingand blowingof
was

barghums (kudu-horntrumpets). It
between greetings
our

the enthusiastic Friends

amid

respective porters.
other

embraced long separated vehemently

cries of "Yambo"
to

with loudly shouted (greeting),

For

as inquiries

each other's health.

instance,Jumbi

recognized
a

distant relative among

at

the crowd of the Somali

who, porters,
rushed

the

same

him. instant,recognized then shook vigorously

They
hands.

into each other's arms,

ZURA

TO

M'THARA,

AND

VISIT

TO

EMBE.

93

"Tambo," said Jumbi, and

shook they again
and
"

the other
more

"Yambo!" answering Jumbi said

"

hands.
"

Once

Yambo/'

was

againanswered
once more.

Yambo."
''

They embraced again ;

Yambo

Yambo

sana""continaed Jumbi

sana/'answered
''

the other
Sana

They embraced
so

yet again.
''Yambo
sana

Yambo

sana," again said Jumbi.

the

sana,"

answered

other;and

they continued only one

had
a

for

quitefive

intervals of minutes^ interrupted by only embracing and

handshaking.As theywere
Uie noise may As
soon as

of out couple many,

be

faintly imagined.
built their boma message and

the Somalis

put

their camp

in order, we

received visit us.

to the effect that

they
over

were

coming

to

Soon

afterwards

they came

in

state. great

white turbans and

of snowdignity coloured vests robes, flowing beautifully with of amber, gold,praying-beads decorated with
numerous

in all the Arrayed

richlyembroidered
sandalwood
or

ebonyin hand, and

and Jamah
was

watch-chains

jewelledcharms, they presenteda

Mahomet serge alone with He He
a

most
wore

picturesque appearance.
European
to

clothes.
wore

in khaki

puttees
been

match, and

double

''Terai" hat.

had

in the service of the Mr.

Grovemment, and had also accompanied

to

Cavendish

on

his late expedition throughSomaliland

was a man tall, sinewy, well-set-up

Lake

Budolph. He

with

features, clean-cut, regular extremely intelligent, thoroughly

and a honourable, polite, hospitable trustworthy,
"

man

whom

it was

really
a

meet. t o pleasure

He

was

about

thirty years
a

of age. Ismail BobU and he

was a

short stout

man

with

shifty eye,
a

and, when jaws,very plausible, decidedly prognathous

had
an

but he hid objectin view, very hospitable;

a

craven

u nder spirit

show

of bluster and

bullying.Noor

94

THROUGH
was

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

Adam

littleslim man,
was

with

narrow

and eyes
shot
some

ferretof his

like features. He

reportedto have
across

porters on
desertion.
and dislike,

his He
we

journey
somehow
never

West
an

Kenia, for attempted

instinctive
His
two

provoked
on

of feeling

got

with

him.

partners,
the
same

Bhotan

and

Abdallah
were

Araballi^were

much

of

kidney.
not

All three

who tribe a Somalis, Ogaden

were

have

the best of
are

T here reputations.
not

lesser other sundry deserve

who lights notice.

When

of

suficient

to importance

they came

into camp
to be
manner. as

we

received them

with due

and ceremony,

asking them

seated, interchanged greetings

For
a

in the Mohammedan

moment

the air

resounded

with

such remarks

''Sabal Kheir"
on

(God bless
the Swahili

''Salaam Aliekoum" you),

(Peacebe

and ''Aliekoum you),

Salaam" ''XJhali
news

(And

on

you Habari

peace), mingled with ghani?" (How

satisfied. We
are

ghani? tilletiquette was ?),

you?

What

then got to busmess,

and

discussed the Embe

El Hakim afTaurin all its bearings.

Noor cross-questioned but severely,

accounts.

Adam find
no

and

some

of his

men

very

could

i n discrepancy

their various

We

discussed the matter suficient reasons

to

very

and finally, fuUy,

for the
we

good and
We

I have

enumerated, already
in

determined

punish the Wa'Embe

instructed them
we

with co-operation

the Somalis.

to

men provide thirty-five

Snider rifles, while carrying five

men

undertook to

supplytwentyup
a

made armed, which, with ourselves, similarly

force of strong

sixty-three men,

number

we

considered

amply
a

sufficientfor the purpose of N'Dominuki's

in hand.
as a

We

despatched
a

nephew
same

to Embe

find to out spy,

and road the good

of the villages, and etc., position

he started

the

evening.

ZURA

TO

M'THARAy

AND

VISIT

TO

EMBE.

95

On

the

following day

we

held another ''shanrie" with of operandi had

our

the Somalia

to discuss the moivs

projected
decided
to

expedition. N'Dominuki's
return start
on

nephew
two

been instructed to
we

from

Embe

within

days, and day

" "

the afternoon

of the next

by which time,bar

he would accidents,
on

have

returned We

and march

immediately
just before
over

his report. receiving

intended

to start

dusk, pass throughITthara in the darkness,and be

Embe dash It
was one on a

the
a

border

at midnight unperceiyed at dawn

short rest and

the Wa'Embe

would

the operation. complete but admirably ''the best-hud

and would good plan,

of

have answered

for

those littleaccidents that make

men

schemes

o' mice and

will aft As be agley." seen, gang

it suited the enemy Embe

on

admirably.
of consists west) (the
a

this side

of steep range It has,

where mountains,

it rains

all the nearly

round. year

and its steep moist climate and fertilesoil, a very therefore,

deep valleys with banana making plantations, interspersed

are

and slopes

covered

with

dense
it
a

jungle
very

nasty country
know We

to

natives who in, against especially fight of the and turn ground every of
our our

of the inch every did not

paths.

tell N'Dominuki
cost nearly
us

plans
"

very grave

that oversight

lives and those of the whole

expedition.
On the
as following morning, we our

could really camp

not stand

the wind

any

longer,
we

we

shifted
were

to the inside of

and while the forest,

as
more was we

about it we

fortified it as well We
were

were

able

thorn trees,etc. by felling

new

much

sheltered in this rather and

be to position, though, sure, it had the

a

damp.
had

This wind
was

cold nasty of

with it nip

n^^t

morning,which
we

reverse

agreeable.
made

When

our

camp

we settled, satisfactorily

96
our

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

for simplepreparations
one

the
we a

to expedition
were

Embe. than
a

We

took
or were

tent with

us

in

case

away

more

day

two.

loaf of bread and

hind

of boiled mutton quarter

a

also

included;and^ of
The
was men

course,

of plentiful supply

ammunition.

had

rounds thirty The

of Snider Somalia'
a

cartridges
men

each,which

all we

could spare.

had

had in addition, rounds each,and they, fifty

reserve

chest

of six hundred At
5 p.m.

rounds for
we

emergencies.
natives in
our

started. The their usual and

immediate

had, with vicinity

matters, smelt
armed
a

in instinct such unerring of them fifty

row,

about

turned

up

with spears and shields. We

did not want

them, but
scouts,and
force had

could not very well turn them

it occurred to
we us

last the and at moment away,

as our

that

useful theymight prove

to remain.

therefore allowed them

When

assembled,it made
men we

quite an
of

imposingarray
a

with the

sixty

with rifles and the commanded but that

others fifty

with spears.
men,

Altogether,
and
a

upwards
we

hundred

had

no

doubt

should

teach

the Wa'Embe

severe

lesson. N'Dominuki's that he

nephew
had
been

had

not

returned, and

we

cluded conwere

discovered and

and killed, of
a

r ather consequently At the last moment

to to

nonplussedfor the lack

a us.

guide.
and

Masai On

warrior

came

forward

volunteered
was we

guide
them,

the Somalis

he that saying

known

we

Soon services. his accepted

after

started,N'Dominuki's

nephew
fallen
as

returned unexpectedly

and

joinedus, and
Darkness

he and had

the Masai

took the head of the

we

column.

marched

M'thara, the road continually ascending.The

and difficult, extremely grew
on

through path at last

several occasions "1 Hakim

we were

expresseddoubt

as

to

whether

going right.

ZURA

TO

M'THARA,
were ns now

AND

VISIT to

TO

EMBE.

97

However,
Onward and thick
torrent

we

committed

whatever

the Fates

had in store for

we anon

it was ;

to withdraw. impossible

stumbled down

in the

darkness,now

sides, hillup steep

clothed in deep and gloomy valleys

jungle where
below.

the

deep booming
the

note

of

mountain

firom growled hoarsely Soon

somewhere

out
so

of the

pitchy
we us

blackness

path became

narrow

that

could advance
as some

only in
our

Indian

which weakened file,

was

siderably, con-

line fighting

therebystretched
of

out

for
mediate im-

two

hundred

out beingconsequently yards,

our

blotted while the jungle, control, overhead, meeting

out what
on

the stars littlelight

of the denseness

provided. It

was

impossible, countingon
not

account
on our

of the

to placemen vegetation,
we so were

out

flanks,and

in addition

taking the Wa'Embe

make Embe
too

and by surprise, At 10 p.m.

we

did

wish

to

much

noise.
we

were
a

well within the

rest awhile find
a

border,and
our

then looked for

rush
at

placeto

and prepare for

dawn.

We

could not
to

suitable spot, however, and the

decided eventually
came

halt

on

path.
and

rain drizzling of
our men

which on,
a

did not

improve

matters.

One

found

placea
we

little distance
an

from
acute
as

below
as

the

did not that path, and landscape,

El
we

slope at such
as

angle

the rest of the

noiselessly
I

possible pitchedthe tent.

a

Hakim,
were

George,and
would

of partook

meal, but frugal

felt
ever
so

without

water, and
we

naturally doing the Wasungu

for from

we

much

thirstier than

otherwise have done.

same

We

Jamah placedsentries,
on

Mahomet We three

where he had halted

off dropped to

the

path.

then

sleep.
we

Somewhere
our

about rifles as

midnight
the sound

awoke

with

ing reachstart,
to
us

of

shot floated down

where

Jamah

Mahomet's

sentries were

posted. It was
H

98
followed

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

by

second,and then
subdued

third. hum
of
we

Then

all was

silent

the for again, except

men.

wakened suddenly found stumbled

All
we

On

for sending

explanations,
the had path,

that

some

Wa'Embe, coming down

to the

righton
hope of
a

and sentries,

were

fired instantly upon.

on so a

was surprise

but thus abolished,

consultation

decided
a.nL,

that if
we

we

started

an

hour

or

3 earlier, possibly

might take
we

the enemy
once
as more

at

Accordingly, disadvantage.
formed noiselessly

at that time

set out.

It

was

dark

Erebus.

As

we

up

on

the

a path,

sort of half sense

of

have fedlen on

the

men.

We

impendingdisaster seemed to did our best to dissipate and it, guideand

N'Dominuki's
as

succeeded. apparently

The
next

Masai
came

nephew led the way;

then advance-guard ;
coat waterproof
over

four of the Somalia

was

Jamah

Mahomet, who
costume ;

wearinga
found

his khaki few

Geoige,El finally
on

Hakim, and mysel" A

in the spear

farther yards
one

we

path, probably droppedby

fired at
as we

of the Wa'Embe

in their the

when flight, grew

worse

by the sentries. If possible,

we advanced,and presently a was

path
a

reached

deep

ravine

with It
a

swift torrent

roaringand
a

tumblingat
trunk, which

the bottom. served

as

spanned by

treesingle

bridge. Beyond
many

the ravine On

the each
a

upwards with path sloped

side the

twists and turns.

seen more

jungleprevented anything being

away.

than

yardor
We when
a

two

advanced shot

in the and cautiously slowly

out
a

order

described,

rang

almost

under

our

feet; anoth^

followed ; and then that

from the advance-guard showed volley

was

serious something

toward.

terrific howl and

the
ns

showed U-u-u-i (the A'kikuyu war-cry) long repeated that

we
were

very

the and realization ambushed, skilfully

loo

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

tall form, clad in

for George, and Europeanclothes"

as

Jamaii

passed he

thrust

upwards with
was

all his
a

Jamah strength. the

felL Greorge, who instantly

only yardbehind,saw
This
was

he shot the native throughl^e and, raismghis rifle, thrust,

stomach, but did

gave
us

not

drop

him.

the shot which

the firstalarm. made

a

El Hakim

examination hasty

of the stricken man,

over spear-blade,

and
two

pronouncedthe
feet in

wound

fatal. The broad

had entered the length,

side right

justbelow the
scious, semi-con-

the body, and, passing ribs, through emerged just under the left arm, s everal inches. protruding Jamah
was

and
on

in great pain. Grouped round apparently the four Somalis who Hakim concluded formed

him,

the

were alert,

the advance-

guard.
When of

As

El

his examination, Ismail

Bobli, Noor

Adam, and

others of the had up

Somalis, came Jamah, such

to hear
a

up. wail

theylearnt what
behaved like

happenedto
as

and dismay went grief

one

hope

never

again.
cried

Ismail upon As

demented.

He

and wept

''Allah" in the most

we were

frenzied accents.

crowded

i n together the

path

over

the

dying

Jamah, N'Dominuki's
with

nephew
and

crept out

of the bush, and,

shaking

limbs

horror-stricken
say The
was

countenance,

to approachedEl Hakim, attempting

somethingwhich
other had guide stand underto trying

his

refused to utter. trembling lips Hakim seized him, and

El disappeared. what of the he

was

when saying, His face

Ismail Bobli

caughtsight
an

wretch. palsied
of

f rom instantly changed

one

appearance

to pioussupplication
man

of demoniacal

fury,

"This and, crying

Jamah's caused is a fialse he has guide;

the other's death,"placed his rifle, a '577 express, against both side, and,before I coidd raise a hand to interfere, pulled

triggers, literally blowingthe

wretch to poor

pieces.

ZURA

TO

M'THARA,
a

AND

VISIT

TO

EMBE.

loi

It

waa

hideous

and
even

of exhibition revolting savage shonlder his to the rifle put

" "

Ismail ferocity.
we were me

did not

too crowded

for that

he

barrels the simplypushed

man

past
in
a

and firedfrom his

hip.

The murdered the

collapsed

writhing, moaning heap on

and reloaded his rifle.
was no

ground. Ismail turned

the report of
our a men

away It

time

for

as recrimination,

at

Ismail's

a fresh burst rifle, we

of

broke from firing

was

in

the rear, which

act
on

instantly quelled. It

dastardly
almost
reason

IsmaU's

part,even

frenzied with

griefat

though at|the time Jamah's injury, as we

had guide

he

was no us

had

to believe that

the unfortunate

played
was

false.

As

we

found

out

the real afterwards,

a

culprit

the Masai
had

was volunteer, who, it appeared,

native

of Embe, who At the

us,
same

been sent

for the purpose of

us. betraying warn

time,

NDominuki's that
to be
we

nephew

had
a

to neglected

or

pointout

were

goingby
his for

bad

road.

great

deal remained

but explained,

end put untimely

further

explanation path

out of his power

ever.
we were a

However, there

in the

dark, stuck
man

on no

with inches wide, eighteen

wounded

and

guides.

The We

questionnow
few
as we

was

how

to

get

out without

further loss.

called a council of war, firstposting the Somali advancea

guide
he

yards up
far gone

the

path.

We

decided to wait
was a

till

daylight,
was

could not

move

while Jamah carried. It

was

and living,

too

to be

wait. ghastly

After

the

a nd firing

be could almost silence t he shouting, We

a

felt;it seemed
to

deathlike. absolutely
at the

strained

our

ears

the utmost

rustle of slightest

for all we leaf, as,

knew, the bush

f or opportunity
A

might be
a

swarming

with natives

their waiting

rush.
we

curious

sight

should have

t o presented

spectator.

I02

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

The Somalia,led

by Ismail,were
was

r ound p raying, grouped,

the

dying Jamah,
intervals.
and

who

and fast sinking

at moaning softly

El Hakim, revolver in hand, stood bolt

on

upright,

intensely

his face the alert, Beside

"

showing

w hite faintly

throughthe
with his
an

gloom.
on
"

him
a

stood

George, drumming
"

fingers
the men,

his rifle

habit of his

softly humming
down
on

air fix)m

Cavalleria Eusticana." motionless

as

Crouched

the

path were
in low in the
or 80

bronze

statues, conversing

whispersnow
endeavour
to

and then, while

they strained their eyes

A

piercethe surroundingbush. body of ITDominuki's

where smouldering it had

yard
;

away

laythe dead
the

nephew

his

dirty cotton
fire from with

waist-cloth

caught
of

Ismail's o f rifle, nearlychoking us explosion of We and flesh singed

tried several it
was

the smell

the pungent odour

burningcloth.
but
we

times to put out the

in vain
we

cloth,

had

no

water, and

attemptedto

smother

it; so

it smouldered

all

and uncommonly night,

we unpleasant

found it.

We

were

parched with

had thirst, having Once

in
a

no

water

since the
a

afternoon. previous

while

the flash of

would rifle sentry's

momentarily light up

the

surrounding
I laid down

and the sharp reportstabbed the silence. jungle,

on

the
"

path

and

sometimes slept fighting

"

affects me died. We
race

that
were we

way

and

woke

at up
as

dawn, justas Jamah

was one

exceedingly sorry,
ever

he
At

of the best of his

had

to do with.
on

the first glimmer of

he and path,
was

we daylight

dug a

grave

the side of the

baried with
law that
were

all the ordinances

Mohammedan proclaimed by and Prayers

under the circumstances. possible

in Arabic resounded
on

lamentations

all sides from

the deceased's assembled

compatriots.
There

being

now

no

signs of

the

enemy.

El

HaJdm,

ZURA

TO

M^THARA. I
were

AND

VISIT

TO

EMBE.

103

and Greoige, the fat ont Somalia

were
now

for

the continuing

advance

and

pnlling

of the fire
not

somehow, bnt Ismail and

the other

wonld

hear of it.

They

said that the enemy

numerous

for fullyprepared

and the instanced us,

on

freshly dug pitsthat

when

had been found grave.

each side of the

path

diggingJamah's
was

Another

ployed argument theyemwere

that

our

respective camps
more

almost

entirely
absence,

and itwas unprotected,

or

than

Wa'M'thara the t hat likely in

a our

the

Wa'Chanjaiwould

attack and loot them

more

bad as (the especially they Somalis)

number large
a

of

which cattle,
were worse

are now

particularly temptingto
than
ever.

native. the

In

we addition,

while without guides, entirely

path

ahead seemed We
saw

the force of this reasoning, and

common

prudence
abandon
to
we was

directed that, for the present at any rate,we

the attack
;

must

wormwood which decision, and gall though

we were

Englishmen,
the wisest
up
our

reluctantly compelledto
the
we

admit We
under

under possible

circumstances. would
out return

made
more our

minds, however, that

a nd auspices,
it was,

favourable

wipe
and
so

the

of disgrace

for defeat defeat,

we

with

that

understanding

and in the retreat, acquiesced

the orders gave necessary

to retire.

It
over

was

with very

mixed

that feelings had trodden

out
a

we

travelled back hours before that

our

the difficultpath we

few

with

such confidence.
retreat

We

found

afterwards who
were

sudden
iQ

disconcerted the Wa'Embe,

massed

force further

along the path

of
our we

at

placewhere they had

they had kindlyplaced
the road

dug a
At
man

number large

i n which pits,

for spikes sharpened

reception.
were

o'clock eight named

met

on

by

an

M'thara
as a

Eoromo, who

handed

us

jar of honey

104

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

When present. numbers large towards of

our

we

within got

mile

or

two

of

our

camp

of

fullyarmed

natives slunk past us,

going

ChanjaL They were on Hurrying camp.

and to full of had been
was

coming from the direction with sinking hearts,we socm

our some

arrived at the camp,

found relief great

all safe,

though Jumbi
armed We night.
at

report

or

other abont

natives who said he

we

round
us was a

the camp about it then

one

during the
o'clock in the afte^

could tell
It

as afterwards,

present

wished to eat.
we

so afternoon,

set to and
our

made

meal, and hearty

wards retired to

blankets and

the sleep of the just slept

until dinner-time.

CHAPTER

VI.

OUB

MOVEMENTS

IN

M'THABA

AND

MUNITHU.

Attempt
The
"

of

the

Wa'Mthara
accuse

to

loot

our

**

camp

"

Shami
He the

''

with

Ismail

"

Somalia ^That

NDominnki

of treachery"
"

vindicates Embe visit to

himself
reverse
"

wicked
heart of his

little
"

boy!

Explamition by
ants
"

of

SomaHslose

Attacked the

^El Hakim's
"

Mnnithu endeavour
result

"

Robbery
to
recover

goods by
stolen

Wa'Ghiainti
the

join

him

"

^We The

the

property from

Wa'Gnainu"

Ismail's seemed left in

our

apprehensioiis for
to

the

safety of

our

respective camps
whom the
we

have

been
our

well

fomided.

Jumbi,
that
on

had
of

charge of
for

boma,
he

reported
had

evening
numbers

departure
armed

Embe
were

noticed
in

that

large

of

natives

conce"ded the
camp

the
in few
as

surrounding

bush.
state of

He

unostentatiously put
as

good

defence inside then

crowded

possible, and
boma
to

kept
an

his

men

moving
numbers.
was

about He also
several

the noticed

give
the

appearance grass
in
to

of

that

long

the the

clearing
number

with

concealed
some

warriors,
of them

of

hundred. shouted
to

Presently
them,

showed

themselves.

He

asking what
"

they
"

wanted.
in

They
camp.

answered

by

inquiring

if the

Wasungu
that other
one

were

He,
had
Did and he

with gone

ready wit, shouted

away

back but the

of

the

Wasungu
in camp.

somewhere,
to
more see

two

were

they
saw

wish
no

them?

They though

apparently they
105

did

not,

of

them,

still

remained

within

easy

io6

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

distance ; and Our

he consequently
return next

passed
They

anxious very

night.
the

unexpected
had

inoming disconcerted
were

who warriors,
we

retreated. hastily
on our

the

men fighting

passed
in

way

back.
a

Jumbi

said

they were
similar

Wa'M'thara,which,if true, was

The
men

matter. serious very

Somalis' of the charge camp doubt

our

made
was

report. Without
news

the natives'

plan

to

wait

till and
few

arrived of
and

defeat and
camps,

massacre

in

Embe,

then to rush defenders.

loot the

after

the spearing
a

These

seemed preparations
some

to indicate one,

deep-laid
was

plan
sure

on

the part of
success.

and one,

some

who also,

of

Ismail Bobli,with several of the other Somalis, came

our

into

camp

in the afternoon

which showing every signof terror,

to conceal. they endeavoured, unsuccessfully,

They asked
the part

for
came

"shaurie,"and
out

when

we

their granted request,they

with

ridiculous story of

treachery
was a

on

of N'Dominuki
the

They declared he
we

traitor, ignoring

which fact,

pointedout
our

to

them, that N'Dominuki

had been

of kept in ignorance
even now

further stated plans.They

attack
us

that he

was

to preparing

at the head

of

the Wa'M'thara, reinforced We refused them

a man as

by
of

strong body
word

of Wa'Embe.

to believe a point-blank to their

source

of it. On

ing questionto sell

information, they said that

into their camp

from

who Chanjei,

had
were

come

food,had told them.

and said
as

We

their with disgusted

credulity
known

much.

El Hakim
as

told them

that he had

N'Dominuki and
so

for years

the most

of natives, trustworthy he would

not

had

other

and before him, Englishmen

more

the believe that he had turned traitor, on

than doubtftd who

word
was

of of
no

casual native,whom
or

and knew, nobody

consequence

position.

io8

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

All

these

accoxmts confiictiiig

caused
in

us a

consideiabld
most

As anxiety.
state ; that
so

for the

Somalis, they were

have
been

pitiabl
been

is"it would

had pitiable

it not

thoroughly contemptible.They appeared panic-stricken

worked with feverish enei]gy in
trees

and

their strengthening

boma, felling huge

after sundown. and precautions, for especially whom We We

and

cuttingthorn bush till long

did not
boma

ourselves

neglect obvious
a more little,

strengthenedour
of

the purpose

the Somalis' storieshad then sent

a

our reassuring men, amongst created something like alarm.

peremptory message

to the

Somali

camp,

them warning false alarm

camp,
we or

that if their
any

sentries, frightened througha

fired in the direction of
our

such cause,

should not hesitate to return

the fire with interest

a

This message had the effectof

Next

calming their nerves

over

little. still

morning they again came

same

to

our

camp,

with the

old tale of N'Dominuki's

These treachery. caused

us

N'Dominuki repeated allegations against

some

to

suspect
sent
was

ulterior motive.

Still another

uigent message

was

to

N'Dominuki, and this time he

his after the message, and

sent back word

that he
an

with coming
or so

food. bringing people,

He

arrived

hour

for sending Ismail and the other

Somalis,we
First
answer we our

held

big shaurie."
"

asked N'Dominuki

why
the

he had not befora day

appearedin
He

to

frequent messages
had people the

replied

that he and
and

his

the hillswith all their cattle to fled

we were

tmder goods,

that impression

attack to going

them !

We
a

who inquired

gave

him had

that

idea,and he said that

so.

hoyfrom
Then
we

the Somali camp

told him

began to
N'Dominuki

see

We daylight.
as

where the inquired

he
was

boy

was.

that replied

far as he knew

OUR

MOVEMENTS

IN

'THAR

AND

MUNITHU.

109

still in the Somali Idm.

A In
a

camp,

so was

we

ordered Ismail to

produce
our

few minutes he

bound, at delivered,

feet.

GTOBs-examination had

of the Somalis elicitedthe fact that the

boy
their
that

deserted firom their camp, On

takingwith

him

one

of

sheep.
the

N'Dominuki questioned, again being

come

stated

had boy
would

to him

for shelter. He
him
to

had told the

boy that he
send

not

allow

would but there, stop

"

him done

I back to his masters, but the artfullittle said, boy it for y(ywr

have
yon

sake,N'Dominuki.
and

I wished
are

to

warn

that the

Wasungu

the Wa'Somali believed

about

to

attack

you."

N'Dominuki

him, and

fled forthwith.

In

littlewhile

the

boy, not

with life the liking

the

for the flesh-pots of the camp, returned and yearning natives,

to the

after havingconcocted Somalis, He made

satisfactory tion explana"

of his absence.

out to the Somalis that he had

was an

gone

as

spy old

on

N'Dominuki,who

el moruo
was

torono

"

(a wicked

man), as he had heard that he

risk and great

hostile to

his dear masters, and that at

venience inconpersonal

he had carried out Us warned solenmly attack them. He them

He then plan successfully.

was

that N'Dominuki
on

to preparing

counted

the

of gravity

his

ment announce-

avertii^any sheep"
Nofw
a

about unpleasant inquiries

was

the stolen

ruse
we

which

successful. completely Small white

will be boys
or

had got hold of the truth. whether over,

of

small

boys all the world

and armed fifty

black,and

this little untutored hundred intense

specimen
men,

his genus
camps,

had in
a a

kept

in two had

state of

for two anxiety

days,and

driven

tribe with

all its cattle and the

was

in mortal goods
cover
as

terror

into the hills for

same

in order to period,
same

his

impishescapade. He
other

treated in the

way

from time immemorial

1
no

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

small

have boys

been

"

^for escapades, reprehensible equally he thrashing

for
so

and forthwith receivedthe We

deserved. richly
*"

chided N'Dominoki gently asked him

little that believing

not
come was our

and vnlgarboy/' camp he

why

he had

into

and found out the truth for himself. He

at

afraid,
leisure!

that we should bind him and killhim said, that it was represented
was was

"1 Hakim of

that think to unkind very

him,who
!

such
''

an

old and

N'Dominuki's friend. proved so!'* That is a savage all

to

onlyreply
over

The

told boy

me

They believe the

firststory that comes

hand, even

judgment. In N'Dominuki's case, of his had always been although experience white men he had met them late in life, of the best and pleasantest, and had never of lost the innate distrust quite savage's
strangers.
We
to

their better against

dismissed the crestfallen and advised them Somalis,

in less credence casual to give reports future.

They

seemed very

and sulky,

were,

we

were

rather sorry that N'Dominuki himself.

had

b^inmng to believe, vindicated successfully

a great gathered which threw considerable lighton deal of information, shown beyond It was the recent events in Emba now was the shadow of a doubt that the Masai volunteer guide Embe native who, while spying round, had seized the an of to our disadvantage. offeredhim us serving opportunity blame for saying that they t o The Somalis were greatly knew him. So theydid,but in the huny of the moment that had tell to had him us seen merely they neglected they their for a bout two. a or knocking day camp When M'thara in the darkness we we through passed

From

that old savage

we

afterwards

were

observed

by

some

of the Wa'M'thara, who

were

friendly

OUR

MOVEMENTS

IN

M'THARA

AND

MUNITHU.

in

to

the

Wa'Embe,
news

and
our

who

sent immediatelj

off

numer

with the
to

of

the enemy advance, thus giving the nice little trap into which due
more we

time all

skilfolly prepare
Our

walked. than

was throughout escape

to

luck good
us

good management,
Mahomet
main

as
were

the

party who
an

ambushed

and

killed Jamah

only
of

advanced
mile

the of post

Wa'Embe, the
where

body beingposteda
numbers

further

on,

they had dug

in which pitsin the path,

with great forethought, had placed stakes. they, sharp-pointed It was their intention to attack us when we were floundering about in these pits. We enemy, had
and

sadlyunderrated
had altogether
K
we

the skill and

a

of the courage from escape their

same

had

very

narrow

irretrievabledisaster.

had

underestimated

however, they had capabilities,

first onslaughtmust daunted certainly

also

paid

us

the

firewhich instantly their compliment The terrific greeted have

them surprised

greatly. It
their bringing

them, and

disprobablyconsiderably

them airangedtheir plans, preventing

from

main

body

up

and

fresh any

plan we

Before they had formed us. surrounding had made good our retreat, which, in the be
a what wise,if some-

of subsequent light knowledge, provedto

humiliating step.
N'Dominuki He said
our we

should have told him of

our

plans.
had

of heard only

intention to attack Embe

then too late to

after we
warn us.

and it was passedhis village, if offered,

we

He

wished

to

renew a

the attack,to better

we

personally
open

guide

us

into Embe
on

by

much

path,with
followed His

country
the very

either
one

side; the road

we

had

being
with

worst
was

could have chosen.

we

proffered

assistance the

and accepted, gladly

communicated

would t hey Somalis, expecting

jump

at this opportunity

H3

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

of

avenging the
to
were

death

of

their leader.

To

our

intenBe

that they surprise, they did nothingof the kind, but replied

onlywished
We

and go buy food peaceably,

and astounded, simply

their way

ward. northat

could not
so

first

believe that Somalis, above

all

be could people,

cravennow

had successful a besides, spirited; punitive expedition

become
our

vital necessity if we

were

to preserve

the lives of

party,and

render the country safe for those travellers after us.

were

who

might come

Already there
could

ominous
our

mutterings among
reverse

the

rounding surwe

of tribes, begotten
not
we

in

Embe, but
same

to Ismail get

see

the matter

in the

light,

as argsie

would.

Jamah's We
over

death seemed to have

to b ut begged,

thoroughly
no

him. discouraged
I and went George
to make
a

we reasoned,

purpose.

to his camp
rouse
a

in the

in evening order

final effortto

in him. littlespirit

George

has with

wonderful
and vigour

knowledge of Arabic,and
fluency.
but
I also possess

he used it then
a

rudimentary

knowledgeof
and cajoled,
statement

in that vituperation in vain.

and employed language,

We

it to the utmost;

argued,threatened,
of peace, and wished
to him
a
*'

but could get no response, beyond the insulted,

was a man

from Ismail that he

to go his way

and trade.
not

pointedout
was

with

some
''

it that was emphasis

because he
our

man

of peace

that he did not fall in with demonstration

views,as I had had ocular

was

of the fact that he The

reason,

the very

reverse

when
not

he felt inclined.

I told

him, that he did

was

wish to avenge the blood of for vengeance,

who
were
was was even a

Jamah, which
a

cryingaloud
savages,

of fear cowardly

few naked

not
a

Mohammedans.

I called Allah to witness and religion, that

that he

traitorto his blood and his the "houris"

Jamah, from among

in Paradise would

look

OUR

MOVEMENTS

IN

M'THARA
"

AND

MUNITHU.

113
^

down

and

cnrse a a

him

for

an

unclean

without dog he
was

religion/'
a

He smiled
not trader,

and repeated that smile, sickly

man

peaceful

of

war.

I then

spat upon

the

to ground

show my The

titter

contempt for him, and lefthinL

we

day following
for march

bought

of food largequantity

firom N'DominuM's
our
man

and people,
to theWaso
us

in in loads it packed paration pre-

Nyiro.

In the afternoon
we were

Koromo, the
and

who met

with the into camp

when honey with

firom returning

Embe,

came

N'Dominuki
with "1

requested the
that

honour

of blood-brotherhood

Hakim, and
was
a

though disgusting ceremony interesting

That
I had and night George

performed. accordingly
tent for

We experience. Tery disagreeable

our a

and

the puppy

had

gone to

good

the and after sleep night's worry

was

troubleof the last three and

ran

days. The pup

a
'^

very

restless,

about whining

the tent in his only

worse

most

annoying manner.

At first we him

it thought was he

and scolded cussedness,"

well; but

got

and instead of better,

finally

rolled firantically the on

most yelping ground,

dismally.
voice,and
after his of part that

Suddenly George
a

said "D

nl"
was on

in

loud

firom his sprang up

bed, which

the

and ground,
some

from insect black Uttle searching a pulled He

at once

anatomy.
were they

examined

and found Ms blankets,

covered literally

with

in black which, ants, tiny I ferociously.also turned my

of their small spite

out

bit most size,

and
mass

found

the

ground under
with
an

bed

was

seething
attention have

black

of ants,which
person

the attacked instantly

earnestness

unprotected

of my portions
to business

and

which, under

would other circumstances,

to be someShould the reader be inclined to consider my langnage I was with whom it most niiat theatrical, dealing.I be remembered
^

knew my

man,

and

pdnted my

remarks

accordingly.
I

114

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

commanded
a standing

my

admiration. highest and ground, blankets.

foot off the

on

camp-bed there were consequently

was
a

Mine

few comparatiyely
to the
was

my

We

turned

our

attenti"m

agonizedpuppy, and found

with
on

that the poor little brute

black underneath

the like

who tinypests,

had

bitten him

into his flesh and held free and him put

limpets.We
way, swept
out
on our

brushed

out of harm's

the floor of feet and

we

the tent, gettinginnumerable and in the legs process, the sprinkled liberally circle round
nuisance.
sent

bites for
some

naked

ashes,with which
also

and ground,
to
so some

spread them

in

the tent,which
I did not
was

extent
as

the mitigated

suffer

much,

my

bed, as already
quently conse-

explained,
brunt
the

some

inches above

the

ground, and

who George, of the attack.

a

slepton
I
was

heap

of rushes,bore

the

aroused

several times from

during
on

nightby

muttered

exclamation

the darkness

his side of the tent,followed hurried exit of another of of

woe.

the by the slapwhich signalled

our

tinyenemies
we

fix)m this world

We

found in the

morning that

had not been the

a

sufferers. Bound only

all the men's

measures

tents

broad band been

of

ashes testified to the defensive

to

theyhad
in (ants)

pelled com-

adopt.

The cry of
instant

''

siafu

"

camp
are

is at all

times

for signal

action.

Bed-hot ashes

hastily

and gathered

in the path of the advancing horde, sprinkled is t ill foe the prevails
our

and

the greatestexcitement
was

finally beating
then
of

I vanquished.

to shift compelled
some a

tent

the during first

day
down

to another

spot

distance away. hard

By

the

earth into

concrete-like floor and

to
an

with i t strewing

ashes,we

hoped

prevent

recurrence
we

the attack of the

to
answer

previousnight,

arrangement

found

admirably.
same

The

w here for M'thara Somalia left the Chanjai, day

"

t.

.\

b'vV

YOHK

A5-TCK TilOLN

LENOX
f-OU'Jr

AND ATlONf.

OUR

MOVEMENTS to

IN

M'THARA

AND

MUNITHU.

115
on us

they desired
return

purchasefood. They promised that

their
on

in four

days' time they

would
a

accompany

another

expeditioninto Embe"
of the

result I should
we

have
not

attributed to my been
El

of the nightbefore had eloquence

aware perfectly

of their promises. unreliability

to wait
on a

Hakim, howeyer, decided

and returning, back
as

the off-chance of

their

resolved to fillin
to collect

day

or

two to

by

jonmey
get
news

to Munithn

and also food,

try to

to how
ns

far

our

Embe

reverse

had affected native

took

towards feeling
with

in those districts. He
I amused

eight men

rifleswith

him.

myself all honey

and

the

morning
The be
not

trying to make
induced
a

toffee from

native

batter.

could palatable c ompound, resulting though enough,

to

harden, so

we

were

devour to compelled

it with
of

spoon.

George gave in
a

at

midday

to

nasty touch

fever.

I administered

of couple

a nd tabloids, phenacetin

sweated him well,which

towards he

eveningreduced
was

his tem-

p^ature.

Next made

morning
a

and better, decidedly

together
we saw a

tour

of

roimd inspection

the camp.
we

We

in r at the striped peculiar

boma, which
with
secure

nicknamed

the zebra rat. but At

as we

It
not

was a

mouse-coloured

black
a

stripes,
I

had

trap
At

we

could not

specimen.
back

was midday Greoige once

down

again with the fever,and

men came

dosed him
El

more.
a

12.30 two
me.

from fresh

Hakim
a

with

note

for

He

asked for
more men a

some

bread and It seemed

bottle of milk, also for six

with rifles. districtwest had

come

that the Wa'O'nainu, the

on

of people

of Munithn,
down and

of hearing
some

our

Embe

reverse,

looted

of the trade

which goods

El Hakim
to

had

left in Bei-Munithu's
to recover

and charge, also asked

so

that he intended
for my queer

tiy

them. camp. As

He

company I did not

if I feel

could leave

George was

Ii6

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

in leaving him^ but justified

on

his

assurance
was

that he away,

was

quiteable
to go.

to look after himself while I

I decided

I took

no

baggage
were

or

blankets,and with six

to bring back required

men

and

four

which donkeys, Hakim's

one

the balanee

of El

goods still remainingwith Bei-Munithu,

to try o'clock, intending to

started at
the
same

reach Munithu

it evening, though had

taken the sa"ri two

on

days

to reach

Sfthara

firom Munithu
a

the outward

journey.
outside
our

At

sundown, after

toilsome and

interminable seemingly camp

march, my

I "1 Hakim's and arrived at party

Bei-Munithu's

where village,

El Hakim,

at pleased

rapid

forthwith ministered to my journey, of towels, and soap, supper.

material wants
our

in the way

After

meal he summoned
my

and bade him recapitulate for Bei-Munithu,

of the story

benefit the
to this:

it goods. Briefly pillaged Wa'G'nainu had

come

amounted
on a

A
to

partyof the large

Bei-Munithu.
to hand

visit friendly
him
a

with During their sojourn that the

report
out

came

Wasungu
one

had

been had
was

driven
been

of

Embe The

with
news

and loss, great

some

of them

killed.

caused

and, as excitement,

onlynatural,
the

the assembled natives discussed in what misfortunes supposed It

was

way

Wasungu's
one

could be turned to known

account. profitable

well already

that Bei-Munithu

had

of

his huts filledfrom

of the equipment

floor to roof with

the trade

goods and
require
to

chief

Wasungu,
that

and

it did not

much

to persuasion

induce
to his

venerable

humbug
so

exhibit the contents riches

guests. The

of sight

much

inflamed the abreadyexcited cupidity of naturally The

next

the Wa'G'nainu.

step

was

easy.

In

spiteof

Bei-Munithu's

lukewarm

selves remonstrances, they helpedthemtheir

and liberally

to departed, exulting,

villages.

OUR

MOVEMENTS next

IN

M'THARA

AND

MUNITHU.

117

The
unaware

Hakim El day
of what

amved, and, entirely unexpectedly

asked place, that his trade

had taken

goods
to

shonld take
excuses

be them

broughtout
over

for his

he as inspection,

wanted

to

M'thara.

Bei-Mnnithn, with

many

and

much

wringingof hands,
El Hakim
me was

detailed the events

of and
me

the

preceding day.

wroth, exceedingly

he there and then wrote

over.

the note which had

brought
talked
at the

After Bei-Munithu
matters turn
over.

had

retired to his
was me

we village

El Hakim

very

much

annoyed

of

and assured afiGEtirs, of

our

that this was

in Embe.

only

one

of the

results unpleasant
were

reverse

What

others decided
morrow

in store for us, time alone would

we

disclose. We

before

turned in that
and

we our

would

go

early

on

the
to

to G'nainu
on

demand

goods.
in modo
were

We

wished

proceed

the

of ^fwomUr principle
we

rather

in re, thajifortiter
to
an

but if the former failed

determined had taken

more

apply the
inventory

latter without hesitation. El Hakim of the had

not

and missinggoods,

found

that

than four loads in the affair was with quarrel

Bei-Munithu's disappeared. above but suspicion,

we

conduct

could not

afford to

him

justthen.
At

night

bed of banana
El Hakim's
me

leaves

was

made

for me up

on
a

the

ground in

tent,which, with the addition of

as

made coupleof blankets, the circumstances. disturbed and

comfortable

as

under possible
soon

My

well-earned rest, however, was

used
me as a

which by the field-rats,

playground,
discomfort.
a

and jumped over continually skipped

own

my

body and face, laige

under

to their

infiniteamusement the during

and my

extreme

Two

or

three times

I and found woke night up

in the hollow of my rat curled up fast asleep

neck

or

my

arm.

El

Hakim

awoke

at my

frequentand somewhat

ii8

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

profane exclamations,and
matter.

what gentlyinquired
on

was

the
id

When

I held forth

the drawbacks

of slumber

the savage wilds, he

''

and remarked, feigned polite incredulity, Most

"

I Shocking, shocking

imfortunate delusions ! and

Very

r^retable, Hardwick, very

he

turning

over

in his

blankets,

added insult to hour

injury by
a

intervals at chuckling audibly

manner. aggravating we

for an

in afterwards,

most

At four o'clock next

and
set out
men

morning

roused

our or

fourteen men,

for

G'nainu, some
us.

twenty
It
was

"eiof thirty rather

cut
a

Munithu's

accompanying
We

rou^
by up

and much tramp, the country beingvery hilly ravines and flows in
a

streams.

crossed the river Kazeta

an

(which
average
at
seven

Zura direction at south-easterly through

altitude of 5000

by feet)
waved

tree-trunk

and bridge,

o'clock reached the firstvillage of the Wa'O'nainu outside.

came

and halted that sign

was we

Our

men

branches green
answer,

as

in peace, but

got

no

the

which village,

veiy It
was was

d eserted. to be f ortified, seeming strongly entirely situated

on

the crest

of

forest-covered hill,and
outer

surrounded hewn

by

very

massive

stockade of

roughly
were

tree-trunks with

pointed tops. Inside there

from the other, the whole
an

two

additional stockades of
were

and the huts within pointedlogs,

also stockaded

one

forminga
to next

to almost impregnable position

enemy

without firearms.
answer our

We
our

waited for

while,but
held
a

were

unable to get any

on

and signals,

consultation to decide

move,
arrows

but in the middle of the discussion a shower of from

poisoned

the

bush winged their surrounding

destructive
men on

way

into

our

three of Bei-Munithu's midst, killing the

same

outright ; at
which showed

time the
from
were

now

familiar war-cry
a

rose

all sides, and resounded

us

in to hilltop hilltop

manner

that

we

expected. fully

OUR

MOVEMENTS

IN

M'THARA

AND

MUNITHU.

119

The

had found afterwards, we natives,

driven off most and

of

the stock,
out safely

which,

with
on

all their

women

was children,

of

the way

while their husbands the hills,

to
a

and

fathers contentedly settled down

with fighting littlemassacre the

comfortable day's
a a

Wasungu,
as

with
a

the prospect of

nice
most

afterwards

to conclusion fitting

enjoyable day.
We
of
were

to compelled

decide quickly upon

men were

our

course

action,as

the Munithu have meant

was

and wavering,

their

desertion would

alone disaster, they

knowing the
com-

paths.
Ubadon

Betreat with

not to be

in taken as, thoughtof,

the Embe

would it reverse,
our

have confirmed the

our

natives in their would be

of opinion

and helplessness,
men

prestige reply largemined deterat

lost hopelessly
a

Our

the settled summarily in bush surrounding

question by

into the firing volley

of
as
arrow" we

to fresh showers

We did not

were see

now

in for

sized quarrel, and

of

immediate any
we

prospect

recovering
to

our

means, pillaged goodsby pacific to opportunity

avail ourselves of the

recover

least and also to their value,

Wa'G'nainu treacherous the punish

for their unprovoked attack.

of

Accordingly
we

word the gave

at

command,

and

our

littleforce advanced

the double serious

aiid capturedthe

w ithout village
were a

encountering any

Inside opposition.

few goats and

had that sheep

occurred

been left behind

when
our

in the

which stampede general

arrival was

The enemy firstsignalled.

had drawn

offfor

and meanwhile reinforcements,

with fashion,

contented themselves,

after the native

with together
a

remarks, shoutinginsulting

list of the various

they operations surgical

our

later intended performing on upon

El Hakim mustered
our men

persons. divided and village, under placed my

in the

them into two parties, one

of which

he

I20

THROUGH

KIKUYU to

TO

GALLA-LAND.

command, with orders

while he, at the head
base. fortified

forageround for

more

live stock,
a

of the

as other,held the village

When

was our

about

to

select the

men

we required,

to discovered,

that there^were consternation,

nine only
as

instead of fourteen ! the whereabouts

Questionselicitedno
absentees.
or

information
that

to

of the

It

was

firebrand

Sadi ben Heri and three

were

four of his

who cronies particular

I missing.

had

seen

them after
we

only ten
trusted
our own

minutes

before,

but where could not

they

had gone

the captured

I village
turn

ascertain; however, we
men

they would
a

all I five took right. up

of the Wa'Munithu
to

of

and about
some more

dozen

try to

capture

stock in

order to balance

our

account
me

with the Wa'G'nainu. work for what

I little

They began
to

made certainly

captured.

They disputed every

run

a nd plantation

every

I till village
or

short of iimmunition.
were

Two

three of my

Munithu

contingent
intimidated

so when killed,

I reached the next

I village burnt
no

it, justto show the enemy

us

that

theyhad

in

way

by

their

a proceeding opposition; was

which work.
most

heartened

my

men
was

It wonderfally.

very

hard

Every village
cases

perched
or

on

an

eminence, and in
most

reached

by only one,

at the

two, almost

inaccessible paths. I that my and

men

all the time proceeded

at the

double,so

should not have time to think about the and down racing up several hills as and

danger,
as

after
a

steep

the

roof of

house,I

was

fairly pumped
the
a or

witii streaming

in spite of perspiration, I

low comparatively

temperature.
or

captureda few head of cattle and

in the goats
course

hundred

so

sheep

and

of

an

hour

two, and burnt four

in villages my

the process ; which

f acilitated proceeding greatly

safe retirement to the base held

by El Hakim, when

\
\
Digitized by

122

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

them however^generally persuaded better part of valour. After reached reckoned

a

that discretion

was

the

march, tiring
with

with intervals of
our

we skirmishing,

Munithu them
up,

intact. captures

When

we

covered the value however,they barely

of the trade

of the to stolen, nothing expenditure goods say and the

very

of ammunition

risk entailed personal tired and very

in the collection.

We
we

were

hungry, but
obtain to try
an

before
news

eating the missing men.

native dispatched

to spies
we

of
to

After lunch
our

retired for

hour

off of the effects sleep

unusual exertion.

CHAPTER

VIL

RETURN

TO

WTHARA.

An

ivoiy "shauri"

"

^Death
"

of

Sadi
and

ben
I

Heri

and
to

his

companions"
"

PnichasiDg ivory
the
of open
"

"1

Hakim

return at

M*thara old
retom

night
Betum

in

George
from

ill" The

Wa*M'thara
"

their
to

tricks"
to

the

SomaHs
an

Chanjai

^They

refose

Embe"

internew

elephant.

Ik

the
onr

afternoon version

Bei-Munithu of what
to
our

paid
had

us

visit
at

in

order

to

hear

happened
recital without he

G'nainn.

He
any

listened
comment.

attentively
When
sent
we

making
us

had
to

concluded

informed

that
to
our

he also had

spies back
of

G'nainu,
had

addition in as, them

five men,

eleven

his

own

who

accompanied

were

missing.
We learnt further distant that wished
at to

the
to

natives sell
us

of
a

village about
of

two

hours' inarch

tusk

ivory.

We
to

heartened
the hEing

considerably
owner

that, and
talk it
over.

asked
He very

Bei-Munithu

along

thereupon
and

drew, with-

presently returning
iium, who

with

aged
of
a

decrepit
he

tottered
to
us as

forward the

by
owner

the of
to

aid the
seat

staff, whom
We and

introduced

tusk.

politely
waited

heggedthe
tni it

venerable
to

gentleman
open

himself,
In
a

pleased him

negotiations.
to

few

moments
a

he had collected

enough

energy
123

speak, and

producing

reed

124

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

some

six feet long, indicated that that

was

the measnremoit

of the tusk.
"

Very well,"we
do you want
a

said. for it ?
'*

"

It

seems

good tnsk.
that

How

much

After three

littlethought he remarked
a

one

cow

and

sheep would be considered

will

return. fedr very

''All right/' said we;

to

''ifthe tusk is all it is

represented
save us see

be,we

give
a

even

the

order in to asked, price

But first let

the trouble of tusk." He

long

'shaurL*

the

assented to this, and in the tusk. bring

not

while little
over

rose

and retired,
we

to presumably

For

two
we an

hours

waited

but he did expectantly, of

and return, for

were

justthinkiTig
native latter
and

sendingover

to

Bei-Munithu

w hen explanation
a

that

gentleman himseK
ancient than

forward l eading appeared,

our

still more individual

former

visitor. This
our
a

of in front himself seated slowly

a

tent

solemnlychewed
similar mimched
ones

which twig

he drew

frt)m

bundle

of

carried in his belt.^ The for some

ancient

gentleman
to
a

away

minutes,and

condescended finally

speak.
of

He

announced, between
he wished Two

chews, that he owned

tusk

ivorywhich

to sell us.

We, metaphorically
afternoon!
But
us we

hugged ourselves.
received the old
a

tusks in the

one

rude shock when

was

informed interpreter
same

that

gentleman
we we

to referring the
owner

tusk.

"Why,"
upon
"

"the explained, have

has

alreadycalled
a man

and us,

the bargain." completed

"

Oh

no," said the old savage,

that

was

young

and is The sap of this wood possesses certain stimnlatiDg qnalities, it tried I Eenia. the of chewed North natiyes afterwards, extensiyely by peppery rather nauseating, and it afterwards gaye and found it of
a

somewhat

flayour. Its efifect upon

me a

me

was

headache. sli^t

RETURN sent
"

TO
''

M'THARA.

125

to
am
"

baigain with
the owner."

you

the market). (practically testing

Very well," said

we.
us

"

We

don't

care

whom

it belongs

to

so

long
"

as

it is sold to

the and ;

sooner

the better."
a

"But/*

said the old savage, "I

want

cow

and

fawr

sheep!
We

grew

heated, and told him

to go

to

or Heligoland,

words to that effect; but he refused to

"

thither. depart
men,
was

The

other man," he said, like all young

"

very
not
one

rash,and
think
cow,
a

exceeded such letting

his instructions. I
a

myself could

of

beautiful tusk

for less than go

good cow,
remained the

and four

sheep."
He p rice. original then

We
us

let and he to however, agreed firm, finally

at
our

have
we

tusk

the

retired,
a

while

wiped

and foreheads took perspiring

nice

drink long

of brackish water.
a

At that moment
a as

messenger

arrived from
to

M'thara with
as soon

note

to

me

from

askingme Gleoige,
the morrow, of
our

return

he possible,

ill with being very

fever.

El
were

Hakim

had

intended returning on
for news from G'nainu

since we

still waiting
we

missingmen,

though

had

lostall hope of their being alive. still Next

we therefore, morning, over rose

early,and

sent

messenger

to the

who people
over

had

the tusk, inquiring

as

why

not had they

sent it

the

day before

theyhad
they
were

promised. The
dose behind

messenger

returned

that saying

l^iTn

the bringing

We ivory. till

waited

with

what littlepatience we when

a

could

muster

nearlymidday,
be

turned elders o f deputation up

on

a withered, leading

which skeleton, tottering

"ai

closer

to proved inspection
more

native. ancient extremely

He

looked

like

fossil

than a human

but,as being,

we

in still he possessed, found,

126

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

native t he highdegree,

and keenness cunning

in

bargain.
us,

The

seated the fossil before deputationcarefully

and,
a

round it,relapsedinto groupingthemselves respectfully dead

as

of the silence, by onlyinterrupted clicking their jaws

they chewed

their
some

The fossil twigs. moved, everlasting

woke eyes,
turn

and for up,

time,gazed at

us

out

of its bleared
we

while at intervals, expectorating thoughtfully looked

at

in

it with

some we

interest.

After

we

had

satisfied our

mutual

the to fossil, spoke curiosity poUtely It

its inquiring errand.

gazed at

us

once

more,
owner

expectorated,
of the much-

and announced coughed,

that it was
come

the

had and t usk, disputed

"

to arrange

the

! price purchase

What have
it.

"

we

"is this tusk owned cried,

'

by a syndicate?
wasted
two

We
over

had two already

Who is the owner,

and shauries,'

days

anyhow

"

The that tlm We

a ssured deputation
was

with utmost the us,

;

simplicity
only friends. prepared to

the real

owner

the other two

were

ourselves resigned

to

the inevitable, and

another engineer bargain. yet

The

fossilagain condescended
not

to

and declared that speak, of his

the
in

tusk should precious

for exchange
one

out go cow,

possession except sheep

on siderable con-

very good

and three female

with lambs !
the

We

refused to entertain any such advance the matter

some was

a nd original price, animation

discussed with
an

and

heat for
our a

hour

or

more.

At

the end

of that

time, when

was patience

almost at We

we agreed on vanishing-point,

compromise.

that
not

we

had

not
was

yet

seen

the tusk, and

aigued did consequently

to represented to their

know We
on

if it

as really good as it was a man

be. and

would

therefore send with

a

over

village,
such

his return

favourable reportwould the contrary, if it

were

givethe
not

last price

demanded.

On

RETURN

TO

M'THARA.

127

good

tusk

as

we

had

been

led to believe, we
This
was

would

only

asked. give the original price

plan they eyentually

ordered
to

agreedto.
The

Besarse

ben

Shokar

accompany

them to their

and reporton the ivory. village

rose

deputationthen
them.
more

and

withdrew, taking the

our

fossilwith been seated

We

retired to
a

tent, but
when caused

had

not

than

few

moments

the sound
us,
ever
our

of
on

excited exclamations alert for We

our

from

the

men

news

of outside

our

missingmen,
saw an

to

springto

feet.
of

rushed
men

and

excited,heavinggroup

some volubly discussing an

object in their midst.

group

shouted
our

order, and
tent
a man

the

separated and
called Bamathani
we

led

towards

in apparently
we silence,

the last stage of

to
were

exhaustion. Commanding
The interpret.
man a a

himself, and straightened great gaping wound

in

horrifiedto

observe like

his

right

arm, that looked

which had been roughly sword-cut, He

annoimced of

stitched up

with
was

fibre.

amid
our

breathless

silencethat he
^d Our the
men

the sole survivor allies who had the

five Swahilis

eight native
groaned and

accompanied them.
news,

wept
bit

at

but

we

again

oommanded

and silence,

by bit, by dint of careful

story.

extracted we questioning, "Tour

four

the whole wretched

said the native,"Sadi, Hamiz, Zanzibaris,"

and
one

and Marazuki, Abdullah,

we we

M'kamba, with eightof

from

Munithu

slipped people, away

cattle.

Wa'sungu
went

so

that

might collect cattle and sheep. We

and far very

got many

Presentlywe

crossed Sadi

the ben

border

of

O'nainu into

Nimbere, and

there

Heri, who
the Wa'men

commanded, seized many

cattle and attacked us; We

from sheep but

your

Kimbere,who
lliemaway

at

once

drove

with their guns.

could not turn

back,as the

I
128

THROUGH
were

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

Wa'G'nainu go where
us on we

behind us, and Sadi ben Heri

so

said,Let
'

and this country, through shall be safe/ times attacked We

come

to

Munithu,

therefore crossed Nimbere, the 'Washenzi'

on (savages) by the way, but the Zanzibaris alwaysdrove them off with their guns; but afterwards they had not many cartndges

beingmany

left. "We then

got

into

N'dakura,where there
us

are

many
even

and people,
more

'Let there Sadi ben Heii said,

from sheep

take
we

cattle and cattle and

these

people.'So

took

then firom the who Wa'N'dakura, sheep many attacked us very fiercely; drove but your men again away the Washenzi with their guns. But their cartridges were and the while the narrow were finished, very nearly paths bush

thick. Wa'G'nainu The very

were

and Wa'Nimbere in front.

were

behind us, and the Wa'N'dakura

so
we

close that

we

had to leave all the that

we

They came cattleand sheep that

our

had taken, so
came

to mighttry save
us

lives. The

enemy

closer and closer to then your

men was

in the

and plantations

the bush, and Soon

fired their last

in the speared

cartridge.
stomach,
was

after that Abdullah

was a

then Sadi

killed with

killed with spears, while the M'kamba and Hamiz Marazuki and sword, There
on were arm

were

also killed with spears. 'WashenzL'

ran men

very

many

of the I

was

cut

my

with

sword, and
Munitha
were

away
were

and hid in the forest. The other killedwhile

to trying
run

seven

away.

Some
some

killed
arrows.

with spears and others with

it was I waited till

and swords,
came

with

I then and night,

here." and
a

Such

was

the storyof the

was.

business it

It

was

man, missing due entirely to the

ghastly

disobedience

of Sadi and his

a nd in their to also companions, stupidity

I30

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

Bnd

brass

wire,some

"bendera" also
some

and "kiiiiki'* (red cloth) camp

and (blue cloth), and medicines,

lodids of

equipment,
some

with ammunition; which, together

totalled up to some and gamekeepers' flares, signal-rockets odd loads. The donkeys gave some trouble at first, forty
as

they were

and fresh, very

to being strongly objected

loaded about

somewhere after twelve days' idleness. Finally, again ten o'clock we were return readyfor our long-delayed

to M'thara.

All this time there Half

an

were

no

Sesaise of signs

or was

the

ivoiy.

hour after

we

had finished packing he but

was

descried
there ;

the approaching
were
can no

camp,

still the driving Our and disgust

cow

signsof
and
run we

the

tusk.
we

annoyance

be

when imagined

heard that the fossilhad hidden Bei-Munithu

was

the tusk

away!

peremptorily
reason

summoned,

and

demanded angrily

the

of

this

our treatment,expressing

in displeasure

severe sufficiently

terms.

much Bei-Munithu, simmered

his account

to find out disturbed, departed two

We
From and cow,

for another it

hours

till his return.

were

there that appeared

two

tusks,

the owner,

Besarse seeing

w ith approaching

thoughtwe
were

intended to cheat him, and

now on

only one incontinentl

tiiat camp
to

fied. Bei-Munithu, however, had

we

him persuaded his way down and

honest, and
tusks.

he

was

now we

with with

the two
as

Again
as we

sat

waited,
the

much

patience
the

could command

under

circumstances. We unloaded
rake tried and to out donkeys,
was

thing some-

there but failed, as eatable,

two

cooked. nothing

At

o'clock in the afternoon

one

we

were came

still waiting.At that into camp had with

rvai

hour

of Bei-Munithu's

men

the

information that the fossil and

his Mends

wway

RETURN

TO

M'THARA.

131

the again, talcing

two

tuski with He the old

(hem.
sent

El Hakim

exploded
onoe

at this aggravating news.

for Bei-Monithu with

more, and

made fairly
as

shake reprobate
no

fear,

as "r though,

we

knew, it was

of his. fi"nlt ''and tell these

"Go at once/' cried El Hakim, duit I have waited two

no

people
honrs"

days on

their accotuit

I will wait

If longer.

do not they ,

that bring

within two ivory their destroy

I irin come

and bum

and their villages stalk."

tation plan-

to the last mnhindi

Bei-Mnnithabecame
Hakim to have
a

and agitated, greatly

El implored
to see

while he himself went littlepatience

the fossil and his

Mends,
error

in order that he
of their ways.

to try might

convince them of the

the He returned late in the afternoon, by accompanied

fossil and the other two

with i)"igained, bringing

ancients,with
them the two

whom tnsks.

we

had gave

We

tbeni a piece of

onr
a

minds

and

the
to

and agreedupon, price their three ewes, pick

aUowedthem
"

as

" vonr special

which pn)06eding

another of the greater part occupied

hour.
The tusks
thepair.We
were

only medium
had

lbs. 90 weighing specimens, for his efforts on

a

thanked

Bei-Munithu
more

our

I'cbalf, we although
"hat purpose
It was
we

than

shrewd firstto

t hat suspicion for last, thou^

he had caused the whole

from delay

could not be very certain.

the in late very

day when
to

we

started eventually it reaching

forMathara, and there seemed

of little hope very

tbatnight, though we
oar

detenmned
our

try, notwithstandin

many

loads and

miscellaneous collection of of which all donkeys,

cattle,
to

and sheepi goats,

loaded

seemed

havecontracted
as

inasmuch of type perverseness, malignant

would they

not

keep

to the

constant needing path,

care

132

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

and

watchfulness

and

halts firequent and and

one

in oid^

to recoyer

Diiito Fortunately, stragglers. volunteered

to

of his tribesmen

accompany
we

us

the ''chunga"(drive)

animals,an offerwhich
We made

gladly accepted.
we

fair progress until

of
our

reached the march first

of strip

forest described in the account

on
were

toEaraiyiii
We of

the borders of which

we

arrived

justbefore dusk.

there by Yiseli* one joined

one

of the head-men

Chanjai,

and

of his

who people, In this

to proceeded
manner
we

assist Dirito in

the driving

animals.

reached

Kanmjni,

and El Hakim
averse
so we

to such

that we should camp there. I was proposed note, a plan, however, rememberingGeorge's

pushedon.
crawled out into The
son

belt farther of the forest, we Traversing the open had which plain stretches away the wind

to Mathara.

set, and already

were

became

cold. bitterly
as

Hie th^:e

porters
was
no

tired and
nearer
our own

to beginning
a

but straggle,

water

than

stream
we

an no

hour's march choice but to

on

tihe

hither side of in

camp,

had
we

proceed
Viseli

the of darkness. spite

On

went^ Dirito and

with the tired animals

were

strung

out
a

in

an

dose to us, while the porteis keeping line in the rear. It grew irregular

and dark, pitch froze us. Hour

cold wind, increasing in

neadj violence,
in the

after hour

we

pursued
stream.

our

hopeless way
was

blackness of the
we

somewhere u ntil night, It

about 8 p.m., idiea useless

reached
so we

the small

going any

farther,
and

camped.

We

called for the tent to be

to
our

pitched
with
no

firewood We

but brought,

m et surprise

response. but

could not

xmderstand

it. We

caUed

again,
wiA
men

their two Viseli and and Dirito beyond

were

henchmea
or

the animals,there

not

more

than three

four

RETURN

TO

M'THARA.

133

irith us, and

were

they

were

doth. loads of carrying

in the darkness
were a

The

others

scattered somewhere had

come.

alongthe path by
onr predicament,

which we

We

in

nice

sniall being party perched on

to thefiill of the fury
a

bare,bleak hillside, exposed

a or tent,a blanket,

icy blast without

to eat, since our had thing our lips though nothing passed My meal at daylight that morning. However, there was to ""iMng

do but to make

the best of

so it,

we

ordered

fire l"ige to

be made, to try to the

was

in mitigate

some

the degree

horror of freezing
^^'wtedna; Our few
men or

icy gale.

Another
no

disappointment

there

absolutely
for diligently of
an

firewood to be had.

searched

hour, and brought

'^cktwo

three handfuls

brushwood, which

by
no

dint small

rf a wasteful expenditureof
aiMJimt of

with matches,coupled
into
a

profimity,

were

transformed

puny

apology
the

forafire.
to our Presently,

great joy,we
soon our we

heard had

shouts from

"^

sideof the stream, and

the satisfactionof

a small beholding

body

of

We portersapproaching.
of consisted, they
one ironyof fate,

examined eagerly

their loads,but alas ! iron wire,and, by the

^Xfme,of brass and

load of cooking and table utensils.

"1 Hakim and and ourselves to I resigned down of
our a over a

comfor disof night

crouched
name

the An

miserable
hour

spark we
a

dignified by the

fira

later

solitar

into porter straggled

midst,and, lo and
We

carried he behold, and found it, sacrificed Then the

the fly-sheet of the tent

uncorded hastQy
were

the tent-pegs rolled up inside ; these forfirewood, and

we soon

at once

had

moderate
raw

blaze

going.
among

Bamathani discovered

some

of pieces

meat
we

remains the utensils, cooking before. days We very

soon

of

sheep

had

killed two

had them

and out,

them cutting

134

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

into chunks^ toaBted them

a

in the

which firying-pan,

formed B

somewhat nourishing thongh then both the spread

canvas

indiarabber-likemeaL
out on fly-sheet

Hakim and
in
we

the

ground,

tried and to it under crept

forget

our

disoomfoit

sleep.
The with blew gale all violence great
at
our blowing night,

fly-sheet protecting up in most a our trouser-legs draughtup when thankful unf so were we eignedly that, altogether, in firstgrey streaks that heralded the dawn appeared
eastern heavens.

the comers,

sendingan icy manner; disagreeable

and the the

We

arose

and

stretched
men so

our

stifiT and

and fiN)zen limbs, of the

the few calling up resembled animals,

we cloths,

who, huddled
many
our

to the leeward

linen their under scanty corpses camp

at

started for

Mathara^ which, having

an

struck the

right path,
not

we

reached in

hour.

had G^eoige himself in

a

arrival, our wrapped but, hearing yet risen,

came

blanket and

out of his tent

was

veiy

at disagreeably surprised

his appearance.

He

was
a

quite
severe

yellow and

very

thin and

efiTect of the haggard,

attack of fever, which,

with coupled

anxiety
more

on

our

account

and differences with the Wa'Mathara

a a

in camp, had

givenhim ^ost
than
our

bad time indeed. very

He

looked

like

livingbeing,but

''all'swell that ends

no

and well,*'
to degree

arrival safe and

sound contributed in The

small

his

speedy recovery.
been armed
some

had Wa'Mathara, it appeared, the surrounding had they

on

again
witili

up

to

their old trick of

and
on

camp

men,

one

occasion

attacked actually
to the stream

of

our

camp

followers while

their way

for water.

In fact, Georgewas he

to get up compelled

from his

bed, where

lay racked

with fever,and, seizing his rifle,

four
or

forth accompanied sally by

five men

in order to drive

RETURN

TO

M'THARA.

13$

ofif the enemy,

who, however, fled

at his

without approach

farther hostilities. We
now

commenced

for preparations

onr

move

ward north-

to the Waso

what Biver, selecting Nyiro

trade

goods

and with into

cattle we

should

balance the leave to require, intending Food had also to be and bought
were no

ITDominuki.

packed
other

after there Mathara, loads, leaving as,

we

cultivated districts in the direction and

we

intended

to

travel,

should have to
we were

for sustenance depend

on

entirely upon
any game
of
we

the food

able to carry with us, and

An

might

be able to shoot.

o f inventory the contents

no
was reserve

our

food-boxes showed
an ounce or

that there was in use, there the

and beyond salt,

none

two

absolutely
to

in the

safari but he

I mentioned

fact disconcerting the

assurance
a

"1
we

Hakim,
should

consoled

me

with

that

be able to obtain salt at certainly

on

marked crater,

M'gomba
due also and

the map,

Uttle to the south Our

of the Waso

Nyiro and
was

north

of Mathara.
we

of supply

Englishflour

and finished, Metama.

were

then

Uving

on

the native ITwele

In the afternoon I took in

a

struck rifle, and,leaving camp, of game.

direction northerly
I forest,
came

in search
on

Crossingthe
trees.

thorn with

out

to

covered h ighland, gravelly

thorn scrub, and

a

here and

there isolated Morio

Underfoot of patches

few small aloes with red flowers grew

in the

earth between

the blocks of white quartz plenti*

fullybestrewn everjrwhere.
The
tree

Morio

is (AeoeantJiera Schimperi) about averaging

curious-looking height,
is
a

with

its bare stem,

six feet in

formed the

of several thin stems of

crown
a

twisted round each other after bare stem

manner

vine.

Surmounting the

spherical

of

leaves, givingit the appearance of those

"
1

3!:*s3vA(x.

j^^^^"

^rarrfcl

v.

_2r,

"

"

^^

uiyuizeu uy

VJlvJvjy

IV^

136

THROUGH

KIKUYU to supplied

TO

GALLA-LAND.

little toy trees has have

use a a

childien in Noah's

arks.

It

small leaf and

small

which flowers, pink-and-white

scent. delightful

The
of

A'kikuyu and Wa'Ndorobo

roots

the

distilled sap
It is also used

the

for

their poisoning for that purpose the the

same

arrows.

by

the Somalis

combined

with

the

sap

of another

of yariety grows
The in

species{Acocanthera Ouabaio)which
mountains
is

Arl

of northern

Somaliland. of the the

resultant No

poison
other

the

celebrated "Wabaio"
tree will grow
near

Somalia.

plantor
are

Morio, consequently they

or as

met

with

little in only groups miles from

summit I

isolated specimens.
a

About hill. On

two

camp

I reached
a

small

stony
structed con-

the

discovered

small

rudely

built of fiat stones, containing small huts of fort,

stone

roofed with brushwood. found when that it

was a

It faced to the north,and used

I
a

afterwards watch-tower

by

the

A'kikuyu as
From

expecting
a

Bendili raid. view of the

the top

of this fort I

obtained

good

surrounding
in
a

country.
incline to than
its
a

To

the north the Guaso

ground slopedaway
bed of which
at

long
more

the

Nyiro,the
than
at

lies

thousand due

feet lower north

ITthara

the

point in
Mounts

course

that

place. Beyond the Guaso

outlines of feet and
to

Nyiro

showed
and

dimly

the

shadowy

Lololokwe

Gwaiguess, 7750
away

10,830 feet in
and
east

Further heightrespectively. desolate the lay

To

the north
or

sandy wastes

of Samburu

GaUa-land.

the north-east
6200 ridge

beyond the
far

Doenyo

lol Deika

(a hog-

backed of and Lake

feet above
as

the great platean sea-level) the

Lykipia stretched Elgeyo.

end At

as

highlandsof Kamaaia
lies highlands and
the miles, twenty of

the foot of the Kamasia

a

Baringo,distant
of

hundred

southern

which

is inhabited

by the Wakwafi

RETURN

TO

M'THARA.

I37

Nyemps.
ton,

Fifteen milee south of

Lake is Baringo

HanningBishop Usoga being

The

discoTered who

by^
was

and

named

after, the

late

Hannington,
in

murdered

by

the natives of

1885.

The

water

of this lake is lukewarm, and, mineral

impregnated

with

salts, is
on

very

bitter.

Lyldpia

Plateau is terminated
on

the north

by the Loroghi

Mountains, and

its eastern

side

by the Elgeyo escarpment,

the continuation, wall extends of the from

with its southern which, together

Mau

escarpment, forms
in

of the part earth's crust 33"" north

eastern

"fault" great the the

sea

the

which of the

of

Oalilee,over

down Equator,

valleyof the Jordan, thence down

North-Eastem through and which is known line,

the Bed

Sea, and

southward

Africa to Lake
to

Tanganyika,

10^ south of the

as geographers

the Great Bift South-west

of

Valley.
of my
as

of point

vantage

rose

the

lofty peak
To

Eenia, veiled

usual

by

its curtain of cloud.

the

and south-east,
we

on

the eastern

side of Eenia, laythe route

had

extendingthroughM'thara,Munithu, justtraversed,
Zuka, and
The M'bu back
to
our

Zura, Moravi, Igani, Wuimbe,

Maianga journey was

Fate had

on

the

Tana

Biver.

first

of stage

safelyaccomplished.Who
us

could

tell what

in store for

in the

unknown

regionsto the

northward ? On
I
saw a

the way
two
or

out

I met

with

no

but game, which

on

my

return

three

at impala antelopes,

I could not

get
in

I m ade the noise to shot, chiefly unavoidably owing

over

them approaching

loose

and quartz blocks. pebbles

I returned to camp

unsuccessful in consequence. that during our Gtoorge absence

at

We Munithu When
El

learnt
one

from of the

donkeys had
the

fallen sick and

was,

died.

Hakim

asked where

carcase

Gtoorgetold

138
OS

THROUGH

KIKUYlf

TO

GALLA-LAND.

that ask

onr

Wakamba

porters had
do
so,

taJtm

it.

They
the
out

did

not

for the

to permissioii

because they possibly

same one

feared

ridicule of all
was

the

but "M'sungo,'' sneaked they

when night,

still in camp,

by
and
a

one,

it into the and, cutting brought camp carcase, up and devoured it

cooked

duringthe
with "Fisis" any

night.

It became

them standing joke against

at
once

the rest of the safari, the for (hyenas)

who

nicknamed

them When

remainder felt

of the

trip.

of the Swahili

porters

particularly they jocular,

punda?" (Who
be
ate the

would

sing out, ''Nani

earnest

amaknia

donkey?) which
by
of
a

inquirywould
Wakamba

immediately answered by
a

shout firom the rest of the Swahilis, "Wakamba

ringing fisi" (the

would

hyenas),followed
cheerful contented,

shout

laughter,

accompanied by
smile the
a

cat-calls. The Wakamba

themsdves think

smile,and
had

of lovingly

magnificent gorge they

The after our morning from their

I believe, and, enjoyed,

rather

the Swahilis for their fastidious prejudices. pitied arrival firom Munithu, the Somalia where Chanjai,

returned been

sojourn in

they had

food. purchasing
on

from the Waso intended to start They

as we

Nyiro
into

the

following day,and,
to

had

lutely absoexpected,

refused Embe.
I

entertain the idea of another concluded

a

expedition
Ismail
a

little "deal"

with

during the
littlecoarse Just

for cartridges exchanging twenty morning, salt.

noon

before

I went

out

alone with

the 20-bQre

with shot-gun, the pot. I strained

my
wore

the

intention of

f or guinea-fowl shooting in

rubber

shoes, and
The

jumping
was

stream,
but
I

badly. instep
it otL
I and

pain

severe,

tried to walk
our

between forest thick the into got

saw no

camp

M'thara, but

birds.

Noiselessly

RETURN

TO

M'THARA.

I39
on

thieading my
mass

way

along

narrow

while game-track^
a

the look-out for

I suddenlysaw partridges, the of openings and

brown large

looming thronghthe
patches of it were
now

Only foliage.
as

small
not

and, againvisible,
I

I had

the least idea what

a

it was, It

in closer crept cautiously and quitestationary, it

was

order to get
at first I

better view.
was a

was

thought it

what hut, though large

doingthere I could not

to within ten

I imagine.

halted then and yards,

a

approached cautiously and watched. Suddenly

was

the
an

mass

moved,

low

noise rumbling into my and

a

and then heard, flanked vision,

enormous

head

swung

field of of

b7

vast

outspread ears

pair

tusks. magnificent

There I stood boll

gon

the of face the i nto gazingstraight

ever

largest
seconds'

elephantI had
and No.
6

with seen,
me!

only
After

a a

20-bore shotfew

shot

with
use
me

suspense I

the regained

of my

and scattered faculties, of particular part

once

it immediately occurred to the forest was

not
a

that this

for good place

at and guinea-fowl,
am

decidedto look somewhere

and

else. I

modest
as

by nature,
as

I therefore made deprecate ostentation; my

a

noise little

possible on
ft

backward

journey
"

at least tillI was

quite
to

quarter of

mile firom the

elephant
Hakim

I did not wish

and place,

ftlann him.

I took the

the of bearings

limped

back to camp back with me, l^

for but

rifle. El could
me on

went immediately

we

not my

find the

He elephant. retreated'

winded evidently

and first visit,

intothe deeper recesses

On my
return to

of the thorn forest

Cairo, I
an

happened
American

to

mention

this

encounter with the

to elephant

Mend

of mine.
"

He listened with

twinkle in his eye, and remarked,

Do

Why, thing

H that isn't strangeI

to me happened

the 'most know, you

I
was

same

when last Fall,

huntin' in the Eockies

I40

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

with my
to

brother.

We
a

had gone out prettyearlyone few

ing morn-

and shoot try

by-ids. After

smart
were

tramp along

the with

river-banky througha lot of bushes,we

a

pulledup
old

jerk, as,

on

coming round
up
we on

tree,we

spottedan

b'ar reared grizzly

in the bushes.

his hind

1^,

feedin' on

something
drew

As

were

only loaded for by-ids, we

back
around

and

watched looked
be

him.
us

Prettysoon
in straight

'old

turned grizzly'

and

the face.
we

My

brother

thoughtit must
our

breakfast-tune, so nearly
!

started fi^

camp

on

the

run

As

we

dodged among
our

the bush

we

could hear the tell you

we

of the grizzly's feet in pit-pat

rear, and

ran

good

and

hard.

the P^resently

sound

of

fainter and and, takings fainter, footsteps pursuing grew dumed look round, quick
if 'old
!

wasn't grizzly'
?
"

runnin'

hard's he could the other way

What

CHAPTER

VIIL

THE

BTART

FOB

THE

WABO

HIIRO.

Some

of

El

Hakim's
of

experiences with
"

elephants

"

^I am
A

made toilsome Eolb's

blood"

brother
A An

Koromo^s The

^Departure from
bufBUo hunt
"

M'thara" Aoooont of and

march death" of

bnffiJo-hiint"
misaccessfiil

camp"

Dr.

lion

Apprehension

pmiishment

deserter.

Eably Soon

the after

next

day

the

Somalis
we were

left

for

the

Waso

Nyiro.
sound the
and

their in that
our

departure
camp.
of

aroused
to

by

of

altercation
we

On the of

sending
had

inquire
returned,

cause,
were

found

four the

Somalis
our

Inisilj searching
8""rL entered

tents

men

for deserters

from

their

Summoning
our

them,
and
were

we

asked it

by

what

right they
even

camp

searched
so

without that
up

asking
lost
my

permission.

They
abused of the

impertinent
and ended

temper, and
them
ftn

them camp. had

soundly,
The dared

by kicking
on

out

looks
to

they

bestowed foot

me,
a

Infidel, who

raise
my

his

against

follower of Mahomet, should

We
more
ever

boded

ill for

if safety, personal them. loads gave

came

it

chance
not

that

opportunity
to

favoured
as our

were

quite ready
we

march,

us

trouble
us

than

had

bargained

for.

N'Dominuki
a

to

see

in the

morning, accompanied
food. We

by

large
a

number

of

his

people bringing
we

purchased
to

about
more

fortnight's
a

rations, as

did

not

intend

be

away

than

month

141

142

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

in any case" and game. We

we

conld
a

eke out easily

Uie rations with tinned staff, soi^ behind widi

onlytook
a

month's

supplyof

two candles,etc.,for ourselves, leaving

cases
us

ITDominuki We

as

reserve

store to take

back to NaiiofaL

also left behind twenty loads of beads,large-bore nition, ammuand

odds and ends of

and equipment,
we

all the cafcde,

nine head which or except eight

us.

intended to take wifb camels

we

N'Dominuki
we

had

five young

belongingto

"1

Hakim, which

also took

along,as

thou^t they
Mend the the bull
in ground

useful for be firomthe Bendili buyingivory might

I wished to go out I but elephant,
was

againto

look for my foot

on

unable to put my

consequence which
we

of my had
I had

injuredinstep.After
taken
an

our

eveningmeal,
tent^
about

under

the trees

outside the

and Gtoorge

chat interesting which

with El Hakim
was
a

elephant-hunting, upon
mine of information. the He

subjecthe

veritable

had shot

for elephants persistently

in four previous years

Lake

and the Gkdla-land, Somaliland, killed

over

country round
on one one

Budolph, having

150,

occasion
"

in shooting twenty-one elephants twenty-

days

good record. fairly

mentioned that his

Commenting

on

the size

of the tusks obtainable in the districtsnorth of the Waso he Nyiro Biver,

over

just weighed largest pair

length. of his in when pursuit incidents, Naturally, exciting Once he sighted favourite quarry, were a solitary numerous.
218 in the open bull feeding

and measured lbs.,

9 feet in

plain
an

some

distance away from little

two
ot

his camp.

Snatching up

8-bore rifleand

three

he started in cartridges,
weapon,

On pursuit.

load his t o proceedLog he had

a

he found that in his

I They cartridges

hurry by

broughtaway
than
was
a

the wrong those

were

differentmaker there

used usually

in the

and rifle,

slight

144

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

of resnlt^

would course,

be

scream

of rage, and and

fdiious
at

chargeby
once

the insulted animal themselves than 100

scarce.

Horse The
so

rider would

make

would elephant away from

seldom

chargemore
that thus wild

yardsor

cover, but at

or under,would distance,

halt and then

return, slowly
With
a

another member giving shout

across come

of the

party

chance.

another horse and the the

rider would

at gallop

full

speed
would

out just elephant's path^

of reach.

Bound
an

in another attempt to put beast huge

a

end

to what

it

considered justly

nuisance

"

an

doomed foreattempt would

to failure. One

after another the horsemen

i nfuriated the to now beast, shooting thoroughly gallop up and at rushes first and firing one pistols, provoking ugly then another of them
"

for all the

world
one
or

like

lot of

touch. playing schoolboys had

a narrow

Sometimes

other of them

but escape,

would somebody

nip in

at

the

critical moment
or a

and divert the have

meant
a

attention. A elephant's

slip
as as

fall would

horrible death from the feet but the

were ponies

and tusks of the

enraged pachyderm;

agile
much. We
manner

as

their

and enjoyedthe fun every whit riders,

had

no

with elephants and playing in ponies,

not

that

would
on
a

have

been

sufficiently amusing when

a

mounted whenever Hakim mule's

mule,which had

habit of
a

violently shying
trot.

it

was

urged faster
a

than

moderate

El

once

had

this unpleasant experience through very

He was riding ahead of the aggravating peculiarity. when he noticed a herd of elephants safari, a mile or feeding so in front. he trotted after Takinghis riflefrom the bearer, them. The elephants moved slowlyon, and disappeared a ridge over distance ahead. El Hakim some urged the mule in spite of his efforts, faster, but, the top of on gaining

THE

START

FOR

THE

WASO

NYIRO.

US

the

he ridge^

had
an

the

mortification of

his seeing quarry he that Fearing

off at moying would

speed. eyer-increasing
after all,he

lose them

jammed

his spnrs into the

was

mule,and raced
It
was

away

down

the

for all he slope

worth.

the fjEurly steep,

ground being oovered with loose

after him, and the frightened Hakim's whole

some stones,

rolled mule's of which, displaced the hoofs, by downhill

so

and

clattered

animal that she

bolted. incontinently concentrated

on

El

energies

were

now

his his seat, keeping

as

and his presence of mind. rifle,

in gradually succeeding

Just

he felt that he

was

his getting

steed under agitated dean

she shied at control^

oat

him shot and of cactus, clump

over

of the

saddle,and
a

the cactus, into the

clinging
was

embrace of
on growing

which thorn wait-a-bit weU-developed the

men

the other side. When

had

cut finally

bim out, he had that

of the idea quitegivenup

elephants shootLog
his
numerous

day, taming

his attention instead to

afaradons.Besides, the elephants were

away. After the
of the

by

that time miles

when meal, evening

we

in firont sat generally

I

and smoking,George camp-fire the feet of El of

used,figurative
and
listen for
was

to sit at speaking,

Hakim

hours to his yams

seldom ^
we

It elephant-hunting.
to

very

could get him in the mood

to

speak about his experiences

were

when

talk,his tales

well worth

to. listening

We

had

some a

hazy
hundred

idea that

like something

elephants with a largepowerful yards' range

were

shot at

bore rifle, which

wounded mortally

them

at the first dis-

he what a t I El asked Once off-hand, Hakim, "^harge. range killed his elephants. generally from he Oh," anything replied,
" "

five to twenty

I yards
L

"

146
and went game
''

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

on

to

that explain

it was

muoh

safer to shoot

faig
get

at short range.

Always enough

stalk yonr

beast

said he^ carefully/'

''

and

dose

to be certain of your
are

shot ; then hit him haid

!
"

in the

there a nd right place^ you sounded certainly his puts but

a own

It Hakim

I must a nd simple, very

"1 that say

into precepts

with practice
so

conspicuous
Ibe

success;

does beginner

not find it
a

very easy.

fire at say to temptation irresistibla It nigh it is much

more seems

or eighty so a

hundred

is wellyards,

much

in safer, though reality

dangerous
"

of fact which is rather difficult

assimilation
''

by

the novice. would

an

El Hakim Besides/'
one

remark

with in conclusion,

the air of is more

propounding
of advantage

unanswerable

argument,

"

it

sportsmanlike."
the
is s hot short-range

Another

this:

Suppose a
of

herd

of

is located. elephants

If the conditions

wind, etc.,are

favourable, one

can, to

with

ordinary care,
the finest pair

to right get up

them, near

enough
owner

pickout
a

of tusks,and brain. If
a

drop their

with

bullet

through the
a

'303 is used there is no

smoke, while it makes

is most

small which comparatively report,

attributed likely
not
a

by

the rest of the herd to the fedL

A

and effect,
even

the cause, of

their comrade's
can

second and

third

elephant

often be obtained under

before the these circumstances,

herd realizeswhat is happening and

stampedes.
make to enough

This rule of careful stalking till near result of the shot certain holds

the

good

with

all

big game,
at

thoughthere
as

are

certain other factors to be which at sight One

can

such considered,

the

angleto

line of your also

the beast aimed into any go

is
or

and standing,

etc. light,

dub

hotel billiard-room in those parts of Africa

where

big

THE

START

FOR

THE

WASO

NYIRO.

147

game

is to be

found, and listen to conversation on, say, lionchances

a are

shooting.The
have
"

that nine out of

"

ten

men

present

had

shot at

lion ;

but

onlya

small age percentvery In

have

actually bagged

their beast.
man can

these days of
a

a small-bore, high-powerrifles,

shoot at

stray

Hon

at six hundred

and yards,

he may

be

luckyenough to

wound

it

or

even,

k ill it; but perhaps,

that is not surely

the ''playing On Waso

''

game."
day after the Somalis left for the
into camp
''

the afternoon of the

Nyiro,N'Dominuki
with
to which
a

came

with
or was

chief named

Eoromo," who
me,

wished to make

muma,"
It

hood, blood-brotherrather
was a

I consented.

long

affidr. They
and

brought
cut

with which them, sheep and toasted. Eoromo

killed,
I then
men on

the liver

out

and
our

on squatted

the

while each other, facing ground Eoromo's A spear and friends

a on

the
a

one

side,and
us.

the other,formed then crossed

over

circleround

riflewere

our

heads,and N'Dominuki, as
a

master of the

then ceremonies, the

"

took

knife and

it alternately on sharpened
''

spear-blade
meanwhile.

and the It was

an

the of oath reciting gun-barrel,

a

muma

kind rambling long,

of

to oath, amountingin fietct

offensive and defensive

with divers painsand alliance, into i n the event operation the oath. said breaking

which penalties attached, of either

or

came

both the blood-brothers

At the conclusion of ITDominuki's shouted spectators the words then

speechthe
in

assembled

''Orioi muma'' my
a

three times.

Three incisions

were

made
to

chest, just deep

similar

enough to allow the blood

was

and flow,

operation arrival,
to both

performedon Eoromo.
liver sheep's
into and
to

N'Dominuki

then ordered the

on

toasted
was

be

which, brought,
a

its

cut

small
me.

and pieces,

piece handed

Eoromo

farther recitation of the

of penalties

148

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

the breaking oath shouted spectators

our

was
^

by N'Dominnki, and againthe Orioi mnma." Eoromo and I then dipped

made
our own

of liver in pieces

blood,and amid
devoured them.

breathless This
was

silence

exchangedpieces and
to

repeated three times

then handed
was

the

accompanimentof
remainder
ate

renewed

shouts from the spectators.The round

to

of the liver was

who the witnesses,

it,and tibe
to make

ceremony my
new

for me it onlyremaining concluded,

a

blood-brother

present.
final preparations were
come over
over

The next

morning our
were a

compl^"d,
He bade
ns

and NDominuki animals

we

having behind leaving

we

early,
we

turned all tiie

to him.

adieu,with

wish that he

return might

safe and sound, and,

what is more, After the thorn

meant sincerely
our

what he said.
we

leaving

late camp
we

plungedonce
mentioned
was

into again

which forest,

soon

the into crossed, emerging before

as

sparsely vegetated highlandI have

to extending

the northward.

The
so

sun

and hot, very from the nature

men

not slow and laborious, travelling

much

of the

ground, perhaps,
as

from the soft condition of the

made n evertheless, ground,

after theirlong rest.

a

The

waUdng

wearisome
our

task,as

the loose
our

and pebbles shins.

bliSck quartz
on

turned

ankles and bruised

After two hours' of the tableland

toiling
we
a

found ourselves

the

edge
far as

down looking

the to sharpdeclivity
as

plain

which stretched out in desolate banoAness beneath, the eye could reach. with It
was a

scape, landkhaki-coloured dreary

hills in the extreme
were

shaped peculiarly

ground back-

In the middle distance

belts of

dusty-lookii
lava

thorn trees,while here and reared up their

there mounds
to

of broken

ugly masses

add

to the

d air general

desolation. Somewhere

ahead of us, about four

march, days'

THE

ACTHOK

MAKING

BLOOD-BROTHERIIOOD

WITH

KARAMA.

THE

"GREEN

CAMP."

(See page

162.)

TTW

vohkI

^^TOR.

LENOX

AND

T,L3eNrouNr*^-0NS.

ISO

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND. tent his of ground-sheet

in shirt, engaged busily

over

the placing He
was

the stacked loads.

I did not

ably. considersplashed getting

once

disturb him, but retired

more were

to

my

satisfied that the blankets, perfectly looked properly

In the

loads

being

after.

the morning
no

sky was

as

clear as

1^ while crystal,
shower

parchedearth showed
fallen duringthe

traces of the

heavy
over

that had kind

We night.

travelled

the

same

of country as that traversed the burnt and grass, loose stones

brown before, dry day

earth,

being the

most

noticeable

if I except the ubiquitous of whidi truly features, rhinoceros, there

were more

than ''a

In genteelsufficiency."
we

fact, tjiey

proveda
of

terriblenuisance, as

had sometimes

to make

long
safari

dStowrs in order to avoid them.

They
of

were

not

only capable
our

doingso, but seemed

men

onlytoo anxious to

upset

The

were

afraid mortally

them, and mudi

preferred
in the

their room After distance

a a

to their company.'

couple of hours

on

the road
we a

we

saw

large swamp,
for
a

which

had mile

not
or on on so

previously
by
tiiom-

surrounded noticed,

radius of

bush,which
the

grew

than thicker deal great

we saw

other parts of the road

was

plain. The
the

of game quantity

and of Vast herds incredible. grantei, zebra, simply oryx, roamed in

over

and ostriches landscape ; rhinoceros.

one or

giraffes
a

were

also

and, sight,
as

of course, with yet,

It is

sportsman's
halted to
saw

and paradise,

two

untouched. exceptions,
was

When allow the

we

reached the swamp

come

the safari While

a

to stragglers

up.

I waiting

out something sticking to

of the grass Hakim's

hundred
He

yards away,
observed it and then

which

I called El

attention.
a

attentively throughthe binoculars for

turned
to
me

moment,

with

an

exclamation

of satisfaction, sofQy

THE

START

FOR

THE

WASO

NYIRO.

151

down." Buffaloes, lying observing,

''

Takinghis *450
us

express,

and

the few motioning

men

with

to be

he started silent, the Martini rifle.

to stalk

them, followed

by

with myself

We, crawleddown
an

to very cautiously

half after and leeward,

we

lionr's careful

which during stalking,

a

advanced

only

fifty we yards,

ensconced ourselyes in We

favourable

position
men

in tibreeds Mnging the swamp.

were

the considering
our

of a further advance, when advisability ^0 had been in the

on

fools of
we

rear

reached the spot where

a

left the

and others,

that learning

whole

herd

of the dreaded

were "mbogo"(buffido)

in such close

promptly proximity,
safe and
on

climbedthe adjacenttrees,from
carried position they
of boffido meat
as an on an

which

elevated

animated

discourse As
a

the merits
we ears

article of diet.

consequence

his had the mortification of seeing the old bull prick up and then listen,
were rose

and rise slowly

sniff the air. The

tions indicaherd

the whole for unsatisfactory, apparently

after a their t o and, feet, slowly

over
a

m oved sniff, preliminary

out

off slowly

rise in the
our

and ground,

of range.

Words would not express

"1 Hakim and
I

! feelings
our

vehementlyconsigned
us.

indiscreet

known followers to the hottest possible place

to

theology,
to

but even

that did not comfort

go
on

We

decided not

give
was

but to lip,

and

follow the would they

a

herd, althoughit
allow
us

that unlikely extremely

to

get within

nmge,
(moe

as

the buffalo is

when keen beast, especially very

to
our

alarmed.
we

However,

a nd surprise

we delight,

when found,

that the herd had breasted the rise,

(about
We

hundred about had halted two thhrfy head) thra noticed

at once

yardsaway.

several very young

calves among
so
on

them, which

why they were explained

deliberate in their the

movements.

They

were,

however,

look-out,and

152

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

we directly

appeared they

saw

ns.

The

cows

with

their

calves took up their station in the centre of the herd, while the bulls faced outwards, soldiers

somethingafter the
Most noble
and and

mann^

of

forming square.

they majestic
immense air of savage my

with their huge, powerful bodies appeared,

frontal

of horns. development
and a bout ferocity

They
them

had
that

an

grandeur
There
we we no

commanded

admiration. highest
were a a

few

stunted thorn trees

one

and a bout^ standing

As
as

took up
were

behind position hundred

we some

of them.

I have

said,

about two

yardsaway, and
we

they showed
to walk

to run, disposition

thought

mightventure
nearer

to another tree boldly

was a we

distance

to them.
so

There

certain amount chanced

of risk of
were were

beingchargedin manifestly uneasy.

sun scorching

doing,
our

but

it,and
quarry

successftil in perfectly

design, though our

down,
we

Sitting
over

waited

in patiently the

for
so

an
we

hour, in order

to let them

settle down

again,

that

still nearer. might approach but feeding,

of the
not without much

They of the sniffing

resumed gradually air on

their

the part
our

bulls,coupledwith many

in suspicious glances

direction. El Hakim
me

that thought
a

the best

to thing

do would

be for

to go to another tree
we

hundred

yardsto the right.Once

there
act
as

would

both crawl

within range, and then gradually

circumstances

I direct. started ofT for the tree, might

and

arrived without

the old bull,the accident, although

guardianof the herd,snifTed severe

used evidently getting improbable theywould
it. observe they
to
our

disapproval. They
was

were

it but presence,
nearer

highly

tolerate our

should approach,

We

again waited, and then, watchingEl

on stealthily

Hakim,

saw

him

crawl

his stomach

towards

THE

START

FOR

THE

fVASO

NYIRO.

153
on

another tree
my

fifty yards

nearer

the herd.

I followed suit

in side, snfiermgconsiderably so doing.

The

vertical

sun

beat

flattened out and, down, fiercely which back, my

was

as

I was, I felt its fall e"fectson

protected
with

only by

flannel shirt and

down

The

ground

was

covered the

sharp pebbles
thorns,blown
while
I
was

and crystals; quartz

fix)m the

long sharp cruelly, fifty

age.
was an

trees, prickedme

tormented took
us

by

That thirst. raging it seemed my

yards' crawl
When
I

twenty minutes;
cuts and

arrived, pantingand
numerous

at gasping,

I tree,
on

bleeding freelyfrom
However,
and
we
were a

scratches

my

chest, elbows, and knees.

now

within easy range of the minutes

to

herd,
El

after

resting

few

we ourselves, steady

prepared for action.

Hakim

Looking over
followed drive,

to

my
at the

I left,

saw

aim raise his rifle, taking so,

a

I b ull largest
a

coiild pick out, I let

fraction of

second
a

later by El
paces, with

Hakim. the blood then

My

beast

jumped, staggered
dead, shot
a

few

in showers streaming
over toppled

from his mouth the through

and nostrils, and

Inngs.El
went of
was
us

Hakim's

beast also

staggered
at the moment

few paces and had

of

down,
behind

wounded. evidently mortally

We

neither h e firing
two

shot at the
some

big bull,as
down,
and

of the other animals. did not

We
want

had then
more,

beasts nuignificent

but the
carcases
an

herd would

not

a nd stamping

They away. but pawing the ground,

move cover.

smelt the two did not

budge

inch.
we

The big bull gazed round, seeking an

^ere

assailant; but

well under

his he turned, exposing Suddenly did not he but simultaneously, and together, Yet he again
was

shoulder. Two
go down.

riflesspoke
more
we

Once

fired

stmck,but

stillkept his

1^.

again

we

and had fired,

154

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

of seeing him settledown the satisbctdoii To

our

on

his hind qnartere. and off,

we

the herd then moved great delight^

were

able to walk

cautiously up
sat
a

to within
on

ten

feet of the

big

bull, as
defiance.

he

propped up
He

his fore

legs,beUowing
never

Such

of spectacle made

I had impotent rage

most

witnessed. previously but being unable rise, while foam of picture

herculean

to efiGinrtB

to do so, he rolled his blood-shot eyes,

fix"m his massive jaws. dripped

He

was

theveiy

helpless though majestic rage.

a planted

I took

pity

od

the noble beast,and

Martini

bullet in his neck, for aU. and good

smashingthe
We of vitality
an

him finishing spine, thereby

examined carefully

him, and, an instance of the splendid

all
our

old bull bufiiBdo, found

so shoulder,

six bull^

plantedin
could Three have
were

his left been mine

dose
an

that together

they
could

covered and three

with
were

plate. ordinary-siied
We rifles were of tlie and

El Hakim's.

them, as, though our easily distinguish

same

bore
were

those from ('450), dean-cut and

El

Hakim's

Holland

Holland

while my symmetrical, of charge We

heavier

half Martini bullets, the propelled by

used powder

by

El Hakim, made
won. were

more

hole. ragged

tossed for the

head, and I
Four
was men

into it to required carry camp,

when

it

severed from

the in

body.

The

horns

were

magnificentl
horns of my

and proportioned, first beast also As

were

perfectcondition.
it after long

The

quiteup
was

to the average.

by

this time

midday (our stalk

to

three lasted having the and

men

hours),we
We

determined dubbed

camp

near

edge of the swamp.

it "Buffido

Camp,"
that the

decided to stop there the next

day

in order

might

cut

up

the dead bufGdoes

and

dry

their meat

into

We biltong.

left their entrails where

the beasts had

THE

START

FOR to

THE

WASO

NYIRO.

155

been ^ot,^th

men

them protect

"om

the valtnres till

in the hope that during the nightthey might snndown,

attract lions.

Jmnbi

in that two the afternoon reported

of the porters
ing carry-

had deserted on
(me
a

the road,and, worst

of all, they were

a

load of
wrae

and the other food,

to

load of the Venetian the EendilL

to

beadswhich
sent

buy
men

ns

food from

We

Jnmbi with six

back

to endeavonr

apprehend
from

tli^n.
Onr camp was situated only about half Biegrave of Dr. Kolb, whom Mr. Neumann hi Neumann's reading book my
^ a a

mile
met

or

so

at M'thara.

the (in paragraph pathetic

thus
:
"

of afterevents) light met

it ran ; eye of

"Here I had

the honour esteemed

introducing my
not

companion
and to the made. yet

(Dr. Kolb)to
He bad shot

my

brother N'DominuM,

rhino, animal whose an

he had acquaintance

rather felt in but the Tana, hippos about

desponding
I

abont his chances

pronused him

bagging a
he

'faro.'

However,

and my that he should have that satisfaction,

went

pledge was

fulfilled the first time He

was,

out

with

me.

Afterthat he shot many.

a first-rate believe,

shot, somewhat though

Soon after those words

hampered

in

the

bush

by

the

of wearingspectacles." itecessity
were

written Dr. Kolb

was

killed

by

rhinoceros under
was

circumstances. affecting particularly with him at the

"1 Hakim

in travelling company he morning

was

time,
in

but on

the

"atal

some
see

half hour's march the end.

I
as

Ae rear, and from Btoiy he was

1

arrived

in time to only

the got far

as

EI

Hakim,

and

can

vouch

for its truth

concerned in it.
in East H. Arthur b y Africa," Equatorial

"EKephant Hunting
L(1898),p.l2e.

156
It

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

appeared that Dr. Eolb

when he
a

was

head the at walking

of

his men, He
was

saw

in the r hinoceros half-grown

path.

carrying

Mannlicher

the magazineloaded rifle,

with soft-nosed bullets. He rhinoceros dead in its tracks.

up

the f ired, d ropping immediately The mother been rhino then sprang until then lying
on

fix"m the grass, where and and

she had

unobserved Dr. Eolb and both

and charged down probablyasleep, his party.

two
or

to

She

caughthis gun-bearerfirst,
meanwhile

tossed

him

three times, her horn Eolb

was

transfixing

the man's

thighs.Dr.
He

pouring
charged
in

magazinefireinto her,but
him
a

fedled to stop her, and she and but fled,

was

in turn.

turned

overtaken

few very

and hoisted into the air, behind the yards, ftdling

who rhinoceros,

passed

on

and

Her disappeared.

long sharp
carried found
no

horn entered the lower part of his

body

from

behind, and
men

penetratedupwards
him him half

for
a

some

distance.

His

into the shade of

an

bush, and
was

there El Hakim

hour later. He him urged Eolb

a

in a nd conscious, quite
him permit him
to examine
was

pain.

"1 Hakim Dr.

to

his

but injuries,

assured

that he

fatally

wounded, and, like

for El Hakim's and asked El

true

detailed his symptoms scientist, He

was
a

benefit Hakim

calm quite

and collected,

for

stimulant, and

brandy was
more

Dr. Eolb immediately supplied.

then referred to his watch, had hour minutes twenty his of life,

and

calmly remarked
and in every
as

that he half
an

of consciousness
correct proving

prognosis

particular.
we were
a

The next

morning

in superintendin occupied simba!''

the manufacture
1 (lions

of the

''Simba! of shout biltong,

us

caused lions!)

to

e xamine eagerly
our

the
more

landscape.
than four

Trotting unconcernedly past

hundred

camp,

not

yards away,

were

superb Uon

and

lioness. El

158
way

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO at

GALLA-LAND.

went ahead,and finally

on

in far u s trot, leaving

the rear, returned hours. JumM he had

and extremely We qniteout-distanced, disgusted.

to camp

after

fruitless tramp of about

seron

returned in the been unable

man

with evening
secure

one

of the The

deserters; captured

to

the other.

culprit
he had
was

was

the

who

had carried the load of food,which It

was

bwmt. ddiberatdy hard to

w icked. really

Food which be
so

so

and which before long would obtain,

our

needed sorely and for

no

by

men,

had been

deliberately destroyed,

that we could ascertain, beyond sheer object, The delinquent ordered a floggingand got was perversity.
"

it.

The

who other deserter,

had

not

been

had recaptured,
were

which also burnt his load of Venetian beads,

particularl

valuable in view of
I had

our

proposed stay among

a we were

the Bendili

the three bufiGsdo heads buried in

large ant-hei^
them about have
or

against

our

return, as

unable to cany them

with us, and to have

hung

in the trees would

exposed them
"rom stragglers

to

theft "rom

wandering Wandorobbo
The of
ants
a

the Somali
an on

caravan.

were

very

beingquite large,
colour;they died
bit very

inch in

and length,

scarlet brigjit

exposure

to the air and

light.They

fiercely, drawingblood whenever

The the
men

their they fiEustened buried the horns

was

jaws. immenselypowerful about suffered considerably

the while in such of charge

who

I b ut legs,

consoled

by

would the that horns thought

be safe firom the

hysnas

little warriors. powerftd

CHAPTER

IX.

JOURNEY

DOWN

THE

WA80

NTIBO.

Aim"l The

at

the Waso camp

on

Nyiro"
fire
"

The

"^

Qreen
game"

Camp

''"The
a

'"

dnder-heap
on

*'"

Scaroifyof

HnntiDg

rhino

mole-back.

NsxT
stream

monuBg which

we

contdnned

to

follow

the

course

of the

little the

issued, greatly diminished

the
swamp.

in
grew

size, firom
more

opposite
as we

side of

The

country

barren brown
or

advanced.
now

Oreat and

gravelly areas again

an

alternated of the be the

with

earth, and
occuired. the

outcrop
tree
was

quartz

lava of any
a

The

universal that arid

thorn seemed

only
to

member draw
of

world vegetalj^le from small the aloes.

to

able

sustenance

soil,with

exception
were

few

cacti

and

Bhinoceros
on

there

in
were

plenty, and
also

several excited

loomed giraffe
to

the

horizon.
two

We
or

greatly

observe

elephant tracks,
towards the

three

days old,
In the and

trending north-eastward
distance due
we

Waso
of

Nyiro.

could
some

see

firowning

clifb

pink gneiss,
in

north,
an

peculiarly shaped hills, one

exact

particular
of

being
at

almost

replicaof
to

the

Great

Pyramid
of
a

Cheops

Ohizeh.

Another

the

left of it consisted

pyramidal
agency

base, surmounted
or

by

columnar

peak

that
two

by

some

other

had

been

into splitvertically

unequal portipns,
like
to
a

which

remained teeth.
was

sticking boldly upwards Standing

the massive
out

couple
the

of

gigantic
north-west

prominently
outline of Mount

north-

Lololokwe,

i$9

i6o

THRQUGH
above ^eet

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

3000

the level of the

more

w hile surrotindiDg plain,

bdbind it, one reared

To
were

point head its stately

to

Mount the.westward,

Gwaigoess
we some

2000 feet higher. and been

stream little the dismay,

our

great annoyance

which had following,

for in size dwindling

a

miles, now
passage.
It

into disappearedcompletely
was

subterranean
we

eleven o'clock in the forenoon, so

some

crept
in the

into the scantyshade afforded by

in for preparation
a

thorn trees, and rested

longmarch

to the Waso

Nyiro

afternoon. The heat and

was

and the atmosphere most intense, Small

ably remark-

dry
out

dear.

at long distances stood objects at the foot of hills, not

more

with remarkable
flowed

distinctness. The

which

the Waso distant.

Nyiro,seemed

than

an

hour's march About

more

two

o'clock, we once having rested sufficiently,

to the north-east tlian in

ahead, bearing more forged

brown crumbling

the direction we
same

had hitherto followed.

We

encountered the
stones
on

soft

with loose earth,

the

surface. Aloes, morio and vegetation, The

even

trees,and thorn

trees were

the

only

they
of

were

distributed. only sparsely

we

country
Each
a

was

formed

which long rolling ridges,

was a a

traversed at march.

It rightangles. time
we

weary

and looked

tiresome

climbed

ridgewe

eagerly

forward for and

we again

of sight the
were

Waso Nyiro. Again longed-for each ridge exactly disappointed, resemUing

we

the last.

At

four o'clock in the afternoon

entered

small belt of thorn trees and

were

dodged

of couple rhinos \dio

doubt and would have no inside, love-making just resented being disturbed. When more we once emerged from the thorn belt we gazed over a broad plain which sloped down to a range of dun-coloured hills some miles gently

JOURNEY
awaj.

DOWN

THE

WASO

NYIRO.

i6i

The Waso
once

Nyiro,
moie we our

we

knew, flowed

at the foot of these

and hills,
our

getting forforward, momentarily pressed

in fatigue

desired reach the to eagerness Martini

a over

goal

I I
was

was

walking with my
to

my

when shoulder, my which left,

It
was

startled considerably by
me

noise from

caused
a

hurriedly bringmy rifle to the ready.

long-drawngrowling grunt,and my
the cry of
were
a

first thoughtwas

of

lions. Closer
was

attention, however, solved the mystery. It zebra,one

of
a

herd of half
a

beautiful Grevy's mile away. The

zebra which

congregated
is very like
a

over

of the zebra ciy

whistle, growling long-drawn

the whistle,
were

and in the distance, when

too far off to hear the

a

growlvery much
herds of oryx
The
and
were we sun were

resembles that of and sight,

a

Hon.

There

large

in

few rhinoceros and water-buck.

in the western

sank

l ower gradually

heavens,

still no apparently

nearer

the range of hills we

distances in the so for, a re making deceptive apparent

the dear
were

atmosphere.But
the centre
of
an

just
a

as

dusk had fallen, our of Doum

a

eyes

of gladdenedby the sight

large dump
our

palms
on

in growing We made

open

green space weary

mile away. eyes the

towards

them, and feasted

earth

beautiful before out stretching green expanse

A

us.
same so

emergedfix"m the spring

we

the here, perhaps which

stream

had followed in the

and morning,

had

The us disappointed by suddenly disappearing.

water
so a

was

quite warm,
so as

and

with impregnated xmdrinkable.

20

mineral

salts;

much hole

to be almost

It welled up
12

into

in the rocks

about

feet

long and
The
so

feet wide

by
with

4 feetdeep,forming a

lovdy

natural bath,overgrown

varicoloured the through

a

mosses

and

ferns.

overflow meandered
in
a

for 100 grass

a

yards or

little stream dark green

foot

deep with

pebbly bottom fringed by

i62

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

rashes,and then spreadout into

tall papyrus three
acres

swamp

overgrown
There
were

with
two "k

reeds 10 of

or

12

feet

high.
one

good green
animals

grass

on

side of the swamp,

of
ate

to which

our

rushed

with whinnies and it,

ate

the delight
as

instant

of they caughtsight
never

and

if

they

would

We stop.
some

crossed this little stream, and

pitched

the tents under

largethorn trees.
It
was

We

christened the feet above

sea*

place

''

Qreen
over was a

Camp."
1000

about

3500

and level, There

feet lower than M'thara. the Doum

seen

specimenof splendid
can

palm on

the

other side of the camp, which of the Oreen

is called m'Ma camp.

be

in the

photograph

The

Doum

palm {HyT^ume ThUbaioii

It is a very the Waso banks

by the SwahiUs.
a

graceful palm,
was

and grows be found

stem

to

great height

on

and Nyiro,

to

everywherealong the
branches
a

of the river. The

divides into two

few feet "rom the

ground,

each branch

again and
a

and dividing again

being crowned
The

with its canopy

about

of broad,flat, leaves. fan-shaped

firuit,

the size of
a

is mostlyhard uneatable kernel, potato, about half fibre,

an

with

of moist layer

inch
one

tained thick,con-

in

reddish bitter rind. with fibre, and I ate

we were
a

It reminds

of

eating
also

chopped cocoanut
flavour.

sweetish, slightly astringent

as

G^rge
when
were

it of later quantities on,

did the men, While

from among
we

without other
a

vegetables.
emerged
caused for

the tents pitching

rhinoceros been shout

the papjrrus, where and trotted towards

he had
us.

in wallowing
soon

the swamp, him

to

change his

mind, and off he

went

full

gaUop

the Waso half

a

I should have remarked, was which, Nyiro,

about

mile distant.
was

The country outside the camp white large

of patches mineral

covered

in

with places

carbonate of salts, principally

JOURNEY
soda and
any
common
were

DOWN

THE

WASO

NYIRO.

163

of sulphate

but magnesia ;
was

we

searched in vain for

men

salt. There
in driving the

a nd the little soil, very

or

who

three strock rock tent-pegs

A violent
most

four
on

inches below the surface.

of wind gale

came

at

sundown, and it needed the

in the way

extraordinary precautions,
tents,to prevent them

of extra guy-ropes

to the

blown bodily being away. After supper

our we

held

consultation to decide what

form

plans should taka

and Burkeneji

Eirst and foremost, we in peoples,

wished to find

the

Bendili

order to trade for ivory.

at

These

people are
Southern the west

nomads, and

wander

will

over

the the

immense
north

tract of desert

on bounded, roughly, country

by on Nyiro,

Somaliland, on

the south
on or

by

the Waso

by

Lake

and Budolph,
one

the east
two

by

the

fortieth of longitude. degree They have

permanent

settlements, some Marsabit, notably

to the north
some

or eight

ten

journey days'
ated situNyiro,

of the Waso
two
or

and Nyiro,

at Mount

three marches

south

of Lake
a

Budolph.
and years),

There

was

every

signthat
no

there had been

(we longdrought
south to the
scarce

found afterwards that it

was
more

rain had fallen for three had

come was

than
was

that they likely their habit when

Waso

as Nyiro,

water

in the

arid countryto the north. After

a

littledeliberation, we therefore,
course

determined
"

to

follow the of being, the

of the Waso

Nyiro

down-stream

that

eastward" the to course,

we
were

in order to try to discover

whom Bendili, We started

soon

find. anxious to very

after

morning. daybreakthe following

and

The

weather
a

was

perfect, beingdry, warm,

be
no

dear;

we

felt it

to pleasure

alive. We

followed the The

course

as river,

there was,

of course,

other water.

of the

Waso

defined by Kyirois alwaysclearly

the belts of Doum

i64

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

palms that Mnge

the
in vegetation
we

the banks, and

its immediate

bythe

of greater greenness

first At we vicinity.

thought
it

that if

followed the should

never

of direction the river, viz. general

we eastward, was

be flEur firom the water, whether

or ns

in

sightat
of
on

the moment

not.
on

Two

or

three

days'

however, xmdeceived journey,

as a

that
in
a

point The river, extraordinary

were

matter

winds about fact,

most

manner,
near

and

several occasions when,

thinkingwe
of

the river,we
to
an

halted for the purpose

camping,we
was

found, owing
miles really

it that utterly unexpectedturn,

we Consequently

away.

adopted the
the

more

safer but course fatiguing Just such

''

of

it in following
on

all its windings.

an

befell us experience

morning we

left

Green

Camp.'' Away

to the eastward
a mass

of that

a nd place,
as

about ten miles distant, was Mount

of

known rock gneiss

500 feet above the plain, and 3500 Sheba, towering

feet above sea-leveL mile

or

We
on

knew which We

the river flowed within

to the north

a or

two

of it, but

whether side, therefore made

south,we
end
we we

were

uncertain.

for the north

to the

of the should

mountain, as, if the river flowed

meet necessarily

south,

while if it went it,

to the north

should still be

goingright.
was

The firsthour^s march of sand covered with

fairly easy.
no

Level stretches and dotted salts,

our

of patches mineral

with stunted thorn trees, offered progress. Several rhinoceros

our were

to greatimpediment

about,one browsing

brute

in being right shouted at

path. We
not

and cautiously approached

seem

him, but he did

we saw

to disposed
was

move.
a

On

nearer approaching

that he

wounded,
been

great

hole in his ribs brother

worst

showing that

he had

h is fighting

and rhinoceros,

the had, apparently, considerably Bhinoceros

are

of the argument.

inveterate

fighters

i66

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

the lava of
a

was

them the fluids giving

stracture and appeaianoe

dark

the brown, or black,petrified edges ragged sponge,

soon

of which
were

reduced

our

boots to ribbons.

The

men

who

wearingsandals suffered
hard work
to

severely,
as

did the animals.

It was, of course,

the to ride, impossible alone. along get

mules

fully havingpainacross
our a

even

Imagine newly

tiny ant

to endeavouring

clamber

and unrolled cinder-track, laid,

was,

you

will have

There position precisely.

as cinder-heap, we

however, no helpfor it ; the

to

dubbed

it, had

be
two

crossed.

We

advanced
our

slowlyand

for painftilly

over
no

hours,but, to

inexpressible disappointment,
saw

of signs

nearing
lava"

the other sida

The heat of the

sun

was

tenific. Its rays,

down, were beating vertically almost causing it seemingly

a"esh which, radiating

a bsorbed readily
to

by

the

glow
our

in the intense heat,

from

under in
an we

feet,gave
oven.

us

the

of being baked feeling slowly

immense

At the end of the second hour beat. than still in the Sitting
so walking, we sun we our

halted for a space, dead found

was

much

woise

resumed the

and wearily over slowly

a

march, climbing painful ing followinterminable lava-heaps,

Here and Use struggle pitiful
we

faint track made

a

by

wanderingrhinoceros.
a

there

few stunted thorn bushes made

how existence, though

they managed

to live

could not

closest t hat the imagine, seeing

traces

fedled show to scrutiny any

of

their roots soil, the blocks

me
a

down straight going seemingly As

we

between

of lava.

walked. El Hakim

suddenly jogged
my

in the ribs with his

elbow, thus calling

were

attention to

coupleof

which giraffe
us.

standing
say,

about

fifty yardsahead

watching

Strangeto
us

they
had

did not exhibit the least alarm, but watched when approachedto within twenty yards,

tillwe

they turned and

JOURNEY
shambled

DOWN

THE

U^ASO

NYJRO.

167

with their ungainly heads swaying to and firo off,

of
a

like the masthead

A few minutes
to
a

in ship

seaway.

later we He

walked

round
we

comer

on right

iMnoceros.

faced round,and
a

scattered. instantly loaded

I made my

for the lee side of

convenient

and lava-heap, The

'303 ; El Hakim

and

suit. Georgefollowing

slight
a

noise we

made

in

doingso

for he scared the brute, the loose lava

as a

suddenly

turned and trotted away

over

if it were sound.
our

his bulk,without lawn,and, notwithstanding We toiled onwards for another

of when hours, couple

heartswere It
was

gladdened by an

of smoothness appearance and

soon we

foot. underwere

only temporary, however,

with our againcontinuing unequal struggle

and
we mechanically our

nature.

Slowly
long along

El Hakim, toiled along.

Qeorge and I,
threes

and

s ervants personal

safari of the had the rest ; scattered in twos and

since tailed the path in The

sun

and off,
our rose
us

were

rear.

and higher

as higher as

the

morningadvanced,
a

and scorched

tillit seemed
our

if we

had not

single drop
I

of moisture leftin

bruised and wearied bodies. doomed

to be
a

feebly
edition
as

wondered if we
of the

were

sort

of modem

Dante's "Infemo" with Jew," "Wandering

I
at

the

When sphereof operations.

in companions
even
a a

idea to the suggested my

a

vain

attempt
were

it did joke,
our

not

provoke
sore

smile.

Our

boots

ruined,and
one

feet

and

from cramped from springing another. The lava rolled and

our

pieceof

loose rock to

"rom slipped

under us,

bruising

ankles ;

we

were

and with thirst, h ot, dog-tired, parched miserable

in a altogether

most

plight.
to
a

Suddenly George gave

reason

vent

feeble hurrah 1

El

Hakim and I gazedwonderingly at him, trying to grasp the

for such
a

demonstration. singular

He

indicated

by

i68

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

gesture that

we

should

look well
as

ahead.
our

We

did so, and

as immediately endeayoured,

swollen and parched

the example,though

tongues would attemptwas

more

permit,to
or

follow his

There less a fifidlure.

before

us

was

sharpdip; enough at heap

moment
"

at the foot stretched one

of the familiar, gravelly,

We

covered sandyplains them

with

thorn trees.

had

grumbled
''

but after that terrific dnderheretofore,

the thorn-covered if to make

plainseemed
for
our

veritable paradise.
at

As

amends

we sufferings,

that
our

caught sight of
on

Mount that

Sheba, which

was

objective leaving camp

some

morning.
water.

It was, alas ! still

miles

but it meant distant,

went at
a

Away
desire
"

we

animated walk, quick

There
were
no

by only one
of signs
our our

^the desire for water.

we

but safari,
so we

knew
on.

that

follow they could easily after hour

our

tracks,
now

hurried

Hour half

we

pushed on,
such
a

walkingand
the river.

anon

in running,

reach to eagerness
was our

We

met

but several rhinoceros,

to

hurry

we

did not

stop

speak. Suddenly
at appeared

group

of the
of
a

thrice-blessed Doum We valley.

palms
the

the bottom

raced down

and slope,

there at the bottom Ye

lay

water. cool,clear,sparkling pool of beautiful,

gods! what
of delight hours

pen
a

can

hope to

describe the adequately supreme after the

long,long draughtof cool,pure water,

a sun as we

of such

had down

been
on

exposedto
our

on

We "cinder-heap?'*
our plunging

lay

stomachs, and,
our

faces beneath

drank the surface,

we were

fill of the
our

fluid. When life-preserving

laved we satisfied, the

with the water, watched and, playing chests,

sparkling
a

crystal dropsdripfrom
after all, that
we

our

and fingers
was

fedl with
such
a

musical

splashinto the parent pool. It

had been

not

long tune,
sun

without water, but the

was

JOURNEY
fierce on terribly

DOWN

THE

WASO

NYIRO.

169

the

of heaps

the in addition, and, lava,

we

horrible whether to as uncertainty

were
oar

not

farther going
an qoite

and farther from increased water, away

thirst to

abnormaldegree. Afterwards we
us accompanied on

two t he despatched

or

three

men

who

had the

the backward

to communicate track,

joyfnl news

to the rest of the

on

and safari,

to relieve of their

burd^Qs those

whom

the

arduous and long

march had had

some

most effect. In the course to began

were

of

an

hour

or

so

of the

men

arrive in twos
we

and threes.
went

The

we others,

found,

not far behind, so

half-hour another in and on,

reachedthe river.

Whether it was
gone
or

the contrast to what

river
as

we

had

xmderjust
as near an

not, the

to appeared

us

to be

to Paradise approach

it is

to possible
over

world. this in get rocks in miniature

a

The swift water and cataracts, musicalmurmur As

oar

here rushingpast, there

over

smooth

forth beds,gave gravel

in the

slumber. to conducive highest degree

our

and, indeed,all tents,eatables,

somewhere

equippersonal
the river the

loent were

behind, halfwaybetween
we

and the

''

cinder-heap,"

slumbered

under accordingly

shade of the palms. giatefal A carious fact which I have often noticed march "tigaing
of one's men
are
on a

long and
the first
men

is

that,

as

when in this instance,

into get camp,

they

are

the invariably

who

of loads trade t he carrying

t he goods,

unkindest cloth, or,

cut of

the cooking utensils ! all,

of the rest safari staggered the in,some evening

Towards of the
men

havingbeen twelve hours havingbeen

on on on

the road.

One

man

had fiEdlen firom exhaustion and died his load heap,"

that awful ''cinder-

brought
a

by

Jumbi.

We
our

had last

made,I suppose,

about six miles in

bee line from

I/O

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

camp,
our

though how

much

groundwe
of

had

covered in actually

laborious march At

it is difficult to say.
our

the conclusion

we breakfiast-dinner-supper

turned

tired out in, thoroughly

to
a

but,as it happened, we

were

destined not thani

came

enjoy quiet night's repose,

tent; he held
an

first Bama"

into the

in hand his egg

guinea-fowrs egg.
''

The

men

found this, Bwana," said he.

an

Now, I fancied
'Til go

^g

very much,

so

I awakened I

George.
induced
I
was

halves with

you," said I, when

in

had what

sufficient wakefulness

him

to

understand

saying.
Bamathani lent him my
was

boil the to ordered accordingly egg.

three watch,so that he should boil it for exactly

more nor

minutes,neither
and spoons the

less. Meanwhile
we

I secured two

and pepper-box,

waited

till expectantly
to
a

cooked Bamathani reappeared the bearing precious Qgg

turn. I took it and

with it rapped my
a

spoon.

Hardly had

I touched it before it exploded with

to
a

and flew loud report,

pieces.It was

it least a t inside, ooipty; appeared empty

at Oeorge looked blankly
we were

second after it blew up

and me,

I returned the

and compliment,

still gazingat each

us.

other when
we choking,

the after-effect, to so made

a

speak,struck

Then,

dive for the open air. bade him

summoning Hastily

Bamathani, we

interior of the the to penetrate

wave
a

tent,open both ends,and then

gas,
or

blanket tillthe

sewer

whatever

it was, had time. We

some occupied

which a proceeding dispersed, and slept then turned in again,

about

somewhere till peacefully, thoughodorously ,

midnight.

Suddenly
we

cry

of ''Moto!
a

out, accompaniedby

(Krel fire!) rang Out terrible roaringand crackling.

moto!"
our

rushed,dad onlyin

shirts
"

the

night

was

warm

"

^to

JOURNEY
find one

DOWN

THE

WASO

NYIRO.

171

porticmof the camp

in

blaze. We

seized blankets,

we sacking; anything

and could get hold of,

attacked forionsly

the flames. The

diy grass and reeds bnmed

trees. If

like paper, bat the great

once

o nr fire, canght they palm be would in utterly tents, fact,everything, stores, and,

danger lay in the

We destroyed.

for therefore, fought, the most

our

very

existence.

we Fortunately managed,by

strenuous

to exertions,

keepthe flames

clear of the

after an and, palms,

hour's hard

work, to entirely subdue them.

Our bare feet and

legswere

8%htlyburnt,and
no

my
was

shirt done.

was

but beyond that scorched, turned in

we

serious damage

We

2 at a.m., again
more

and
our

undisturbed slept march.

till7 a.m., when

once

resumed

We
the men

intended
a

to go

only by

in order to short distance,

give

exertions of the rest after their fatiguing

was no means more

previous
here and
we

day. The country

thereshowed
loet with
saw
a a

and level,

to tendency

nothingthat
Our men,

produce impeded our seriously

but lava-blocks, progress. very

We

herd

but of zebra in the distance, with that reckless

** "

they were

shy

and wary.

which improvidence
sumed conalready

the Swahili ^fistinguishes the twelve

pagazi and of store grain days'

had
now

had (porter),

flour which

we

had

firom ITthara,and l^nnight

after leaving days (six

was

It left. that place) bufiiedo-meat of few a pieces oidy

that therefore, unperative,

we

should

shoot

some

meat

for

them.
with bare rock,now Smooth patches of sand, interspersed and the of hecame features the predominant landscape,
was

game

hard to very

in approach consequence.
we w as followed, sedulously

The river, which

distinguished
It flowed in

the banks. bythe line of palmswhich fidnged

172

THROUGH

KIKUYO

70

GALLA

LAND.

at places

the foot of

frowningclifi"of
countless

t heir gneiss" and baboons

rugged
which

inhabited scarps chattered the

by

monkeys

f rom to ledge, incessantly, apparently skipping ledge only animated creatures in the whole sun-baked,donI successfully stalked landscape.

coloured

and shot

grantei,
three

is the very best eating of allEast African which,in my opinion, Saddle of grantei, after beinghung gazelles. We days,13 a jointfit for a monarch. were
to shoot
reason a

two

or

very

anxioas

rhinoceros for the men,

we
saw

which

was

the probably

why
so

none,

that notwithstanding the during

they had
of

been

numerous indecently

few days. previous

on

We

camped

at ten o'clock in the forenoon

the bank

the river, which

here flows

over

of boulders gigantic
or

gneiss,

and sometimes white sandstone

we

granite.In
or so

the afternoon
camp,

saw

herds of game large

and zebra, oryx,

mile

from

pally princi-

grantei.They
yards to them.
we were

were

shy, strangely

it I found and, the country beingperfectly impossible open,

to

get nearer
The

than 800

day following
shot
a

off

againsoon

after sunrise. also

El Hakim
saw
a

small

soon grantei

We after starting. within get range,

as

herd of

but could buffalo,

not

they
We

took alarm,

plunged into
on giraffe was

the river, and, swimming across, the other side. this

out

retired to the also

saw some

of the coimtry on safety

the

bank, but opposite

El Hakim
went

portion
in the

of the river

unfordable.

aftemooon

to

meat shoot to try

for the men,

but

could not
saw.

two of within get range

the oidyanimals he rhinoceros,

a

Food for the

when
we

men

was

r ather getting the march

a on

and question, pressing

resumed
I took

the

morning, following
that of the
see
a

George
but

and

different path from

we

safari,

to parallel

in the hope that it,

mi^t
saw

gama

During the whole

march

we

never

head. single

CHAPTER

X.

BETUBN

TO

THE

""GBEEN

OAMP:*

The

""

Swamp
of the in

Gamp

'*"

Beautifiil
"

climate

of

the
"

Waso
^No

Nyiro"

Faflore
"

to

obtain
Nor lesson

salt at

N^gomba

^Beset
"

by midges
decide
to

signs of the Bendili

our once

Wandorobbo

^We
"

retrace

steps

"

^An

object-

rhinoceros-shooting

The

Ghreen

Gamp

more.

On
camp

account

of
be

the

animals,
on

El
a

Hakim

had of

directed

that

the

shotdd
a

pitched
This

tongue

grass-land
over
an

ing adjoinarea

large
two

swamp.

swamp

extended
more.

of

quite

square

miles,
mineral

probably
salts,was
A hundred
and

The brackish
from

water,
that
our

being
it
was

impregnated
absolutely

with

so

undrinkable.

yards
tumbled
of

campingthe bottom

place
of
a

the Waso

Nyiro foamed
which,
the
in

past

at

deep gorge,
cut
were

the

course

countless The
or

centuries,
sides three
over

it had

through

solid

rock

(gneiss).
Two

of

the

gorge streams,

perfectly perpendicular.
emanating
from
of

litde the

the spray

swamp, upon wild in the cliff ;

drained the
date rocks
a

summit,
feet

falling in clouds
There
were

hundred

below.
"

several I
saw

palms
of North

{Phcanix
Eenia

sp.)
"

the

only specimens
at

whole
were

growing

the

side
was

of

the

they
and
and

bearing fruit,
smalL fruit The ''tende."

which,
Swahilis We

however,
name

quite palm
of

green

very the

this side

''m'tende,"
gorge
174

found

the

the

extremely

precipitous,and

RETURN

TO

THE

"^

GREEN

CAMP"*

175

had to go

of a quite np-streamfor quarter

mile for a suitable

placeto descend.
The weatherwas heat of the shall
never

It was glorious.

so

dry that the intense

The I evenings the
sun our

almost unnoticed. passed day

they were forget;

;

As simply idyllic.

set,a cool breeze sprang up

cool, yet
our

not

cold.

After

firogal supper,
and
sat out

we

usually donned
the open
anon now air,

pyjamas, lit cigars,

a

in

on carrying

desultory

and conversation,
of the

silent, wrapt sitting

beauties of the
no

in

tion contemplaperfectly

manifold
so

tropical night The

atmosphere was
safe in that

dry that

dew

and it was fell,

beautiful climate to sit out in the open air when The clearness and
of the deep purity

clothed. onlypartially blue-black of

the heavens, studded

such
as

with

its

myriads of

bnlliant staxs, was Southern

Seas.

I have

seen

only in Egypt and the only sound which broke

roar

At

such times the

the stillness was

as,

the far-off musical its unknown the

murmur

of the Waso

Nyiro,
over

hurryingto
or men

it tumbled destination, of subdued

its

rocky bed;
where the labour of the down
one

conversation from

sat round

their fires, after the toil and resting advanced evening the animals

day.
one,

As the
an

lay

by
at

example soon

followed also would

by

the

men.

our Presently,

we cigarsfinished, once

reluctantly
and

not retire,

to

however, but instead, sleep, opening

both ends of the tents to the fullest extent,to lie down

gaze
out

into the calm the

and

silent
scene

the of majesty its

night,

in drinking

beauty of the
peace,
and

with

of atmosphere

restfulness and

for requiring,

the

moment,

further from nothing

In

the Author the order of

of all things.

the

morning

thingschanged somewhat.
heavens,
''

As the first signsof dawn Jumbi aroused the

in appeared the eastern

with porters sleeping

his cry of

Haya

176

THROUGH

KIKUYU
"

TO

GALLA-LAND. next

haya ! safari! safari!

into
a

Bamathani

arose,

and, blowing

blaze the embers of

onr

to boil fire, yesterday's proceeded

the kettle for

any.

matutinal

coffee
"

that

when is,
our

we

sessed pos-

rattle of buckets
into
our

outside

tent, as

the

boys pouredfresh water

we

roused wash-basins,

and us,

waited with half-closed eyes for the appearance

our on

of the

with Bilali boy Juma

boots. freshly greased

waited

El

Hakim, and sometimes

hear

he

was

littleslack in the

of his duties. performance

and George

would I, quietly dressing, El Hakim's El Hakim No

answer.

this like fitom something

tent

"

: {yn a muffled voice)

"

Juma

"

El Hakim Stillno

: (vnraised accents)

''

Juma-a

"

answer.

El Hakim

(vn a
"

hud very

Juma-a-a : voice)

"

"

(Sotto
are.

voce):

*'

Where

the devil is that

boy?
?)

Oh!

here you

Wapi
An

viatu ?

(Where

are

my

boots

interval of sUence. and (evidently getting aitemoHngEnglish angry, Have

you

El Hakim

with boots

the

''Ju-ma-a! vernacular)'.

got those

yet? Eh? ?) What

"

Wapi

viatu?

Eh?

Wewisedui?

(Ton

don't know

the dickens do you know

at once

? Tafuta sana^

maramoja !

well (Search

!)

{A

momenfs

broken by sou/nds of searching silence, among

an

kit-boxes, etc, followedby

indistinct

mwrmwr

from (he Now, I'll tell

Juma.) vmJiappy
El Hakim:
what you
a

"You

can't find

them, eh?
I'm

I'm

do to with you ! going Wewi

my

goingto giveyou
"

hiding!
m

sikia?

(Do

you

hear?) Wha
them last

at!

They'reunder
Hum"
"

bed, where
Euleta

I put

ni^t!

^m!

Nenda

macgi1 Oopace! (Go and get

RETURN
some

TO

THE

"^

GREEN

CAMP.''

177

I) water, quickly
shall carry
we a

If you

don't do better than this in

fntoie you After

were

load I

"

had washed

who and dressed, the tent-bearers,

a

in the and pulled already waiting, up pegs,

were

trice the

tents

flat on lying

the

the blankets and ground,leaving

kit

to be waiting exposed,

packed up

for the ready

march

by

Samathani's

defb

trotted Donkeys fingers. skittishly

with everything and everybody, round, colliding way wardly

to be saddled declining

and

loaded

Jumbi by the perspiring

at

and

his

and assistant,

skilfully evading all attempts

''

capture. The command,

! (Tieup Funga mzigo3rako

men

"

your

been the loads) having given,

selected their loads from

the

pile in

which

and they had been stacked overnight,

of rope proceededto bind their effectsto them with lengths of native manufacture,either of skin or fibre. El Hakim, and George,
I

havingfinished our
kits had been
our

tea

or

and coffee,

seen

that

the tents and Uie march, into side

properly packed and readyfor

Ammunition
was

in prepared

turn.

slipped
examined. raised

water-bottles filled, and pockets, t hat the reported

wote

weapons

When
my

Jumbi
"

donkeyswere
"

I ready,
men

voice, Watu

? tayire (Are all the

"

ready?)
be

"ITdeo ! tayire, Bwana

all ready, master (Yes,

see

I ) would

shouted in reply. A last look round to

if

had anything of the

been forgotten or a critical examination overlooked,

or donkeys' pack-saddles, a

disputebetween

two

porters

of by the judicious of a boot, summarily disposed application and Chikua mzigo yako I (Take up your loads) would after Jumbi,shouting Haya ! haya ! nng out. Immediately
" " ''

safari twende !
would
''

"

(Hurry up ! hurry up
"

! go

on

your

1) journey

chuQga

his

and donkeys,

El

Hakim, mounting his

porters,George
out

mule, would
and I

set

out, followed
to
see

by the
last
man

behind staying

the

of camp,
N

178 and

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

safely
We made

on

the

road;

thus

another

march day's

oom-

menced. up
our
as we

minds

to

st(^

day

or

two

at this

**

Swamp Camp/'
much-needed

in order to called it,

aoimals the give

rest ; there were

also

small matteis sundry

not

which well
on

which and could a ttention^ required the march. hour

or

be done TOiy

An

two after the camp

was

we pitched

other three Jumbi, accompanied by

to look for salt. Mount

men,

to

despafcde Mount ITgooba

on

ITgomba
or thirty some

was we

placed
had

my

loap

as

due north of Mount before.

Sheba,which

passedtwo days

It is really some
as our

of miles easi the to forty,

Sheba,
of

it
**

lies (N'gomba)

east south-southm iles thirty

was

Swamp Gamp/' which

It
was

itself some
on

twenty
as

miles due east of Sheba.

a

also marked

the map

salt crater, and in it

lay

our

only hope of

salt obtaining

the next during

four months, the small

supplyI obtainfi
down
to

firom Ismail Bobli,in M'thara,beingalready finished. In the afternoon and

and George
most

I went

the

nv^

indulgedin

the in of swim, delightful spite crocodiles. Towards

supposed presence
troubled mosquitos atall welL We
was

of
us

evening the sleepDg

somewhat, and preventedus

were
our

up very
own

early

on

the

it following \f^ morning,

we

not

fault. At

sunrise

were

assailally

^jf^ the mosquitosbeimjif a most venomous possessed sting, fact, quiteharmless by comparison.They settled doif|t
of myriads

midges ; they were

very, very

small, bat

clouds Our

on

man

and

and drove beast,

arms

us

all

nearly

"ces, necks, and

were

soon
a

covered

numerable

which itched with bitefl^ hitherto

malevolence

U|^
I

I anything had

experienced. George and

ssUed

VIEW

ON

THE

WASO

NYIRO.

NEAR

"SWAMP

CAMl'.

CUTTING

UP

RHINOCEROS

FOR

FOOD.

(See ptge

190.

:i:r.

E'vV

YORK

;3L1C LIBRARY

A*;'^rR.L"NOX

AN'O

i8o

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

movement

of the

ann

launches the

heavy spear, and

the keen

barb penetratesthe

hunter vitals. The elephant's

instantly

dives into the bush ; sometimes will

dents and killed. Accihe is caught that snch

an occurrence

I do but not know happen,

of his companions. The elephanton spoilsthe appetites the receiving and the thrust rashes away generally

throughthe bush,
head poisoned

leaves the o fiT, falling spear-shaft, work. to do its deadly

way,

in

the wound in the unless

same

They spear hippopotamuB

alone severely

but leave the rhinoceros

of him The to catch happen they origin the asleep. is stillsomewhat

of
a

Wandorobbo

mystery.

It is generally

of d^enerate Masai, supposed that they are the ofGspring with admixtures of other tribes. To
are a

certain extent

this

is the case, but there the

are

Wandorobbo pure-blooded

who, in

opinionof Professor Gregoryas recorded in his book,^

of very differentdescent be called the and He says,
**

I suggestthat

they by
on

should

Wa'doko, for they agree in habits,

the Doko the tribe thus named
were

appearance,

with position The

Harris
a

and Avanchers.'

said to

occur

in high,cold,misty plateau forests. Their home between El Boo

a er

of neighbourhood

dense fix)m called

bamboo

is about six weeks' march snow-covered Bari. The it mountain mountain

seems

Mombasa, and
Obada and Lake

must

be
clude con-

Kenia,and the lake Baiingo. Hence

that the Doko
or

safe to

Wa'berikimo

of Harris, Avanchers,

"

ProfesBor J. W.

D.Sc. Gregory,

Lond.,"The

Great Bift

VaDcy,"
and

322 and 325 (1896). pp. " " W. G. Gochol Biyer the Great Particulars Harris, conceming the Countries

the in collected Native Information from thereto adjacent

'

Kingdom 64. 63, pp.

s

of

Shoa.'"

Trans,

Bombay Oeog. Soc^

y6L

vL

(1844),
on

Leon

des Ayanchers," 8oc

GaUa.** Bull

des pays Oromo Geographiqne Eeqoisse and 164. 4 ser. (1859), Faris^ Geog. map p.

RETURN

TO

THE

"

GREEN

CAMP.""

i8i

and Krapfi^^ the

Bigby^ are

the

elephantrhimting N^pilloson
with El

of plateau

and Lyldpia

the districtto the north/' Wandoiobbo have

a

When learned

the discussing that

it

Hakim^

the Wandorobbo is

of language their own,

though

Mc^ogodo
Wa*doko"

only spoken among a few of the tribe on (a hog-backed ridgenorth-west of the Doenyo
some
a

lol Deika), where have

to let

of the

Wandorobbo" pure-blooded

or

settlement. permanent

They

were

very

unwilling
Prol
unlike of the

a fact also mentioned strangershear it,

by

Gregory.

El Hakim

had heard scraps of

ever

and it,
was

it was

had else he anything

known.

He

ignorant

language of the South AMcan

if there say had
seen now
no was

Bushmen, and therefore

could not As and had

we

resemblance. any
two

been

days

at the

''

Swamp Camp,"
no news

and consequently had natives,

it unlikely that theywere thought

of

the Bendili,we down-fitream

to retrace
our as

encamped

we

had

supposed. We
''

therefore, decided,
and from

steps to the

Green

Camp,"

thence

try up
and
over

the river in the direction of Lulolokwe

to Eoma
our

and

Wargasse,
once
''

thence onwards the

and Seran.

Having
and

been

ground between
we

present camp
extent

the

Green

Camp,"

were

to

some

familiar with We

the topographical

of the aspect
to be able therefore,

intervening country.
to

calculated,

make

several short cuts,

a

thereby

making
less than

the return
we

in journey
on our

day

or

perhapstwo days

had taken

journeyhither. early, beingencouraged

The next

morning
our

we

started very

thereto by
^

little foes, the midges. They implacable

"

and Labours, etc., R esearchea, Missionary Travels, Erapff; in Eastern Africa" (1860), 43-46. pp. ' P. the and of North-East the Ooast "Remarks on Africa, Bigby, Varioos Tribes by which it is Inhabited." Trwan, Bombay Oeog,/Sbc., vol ii (1844), 80. p. J. L.

i82

THROUGH matters
a

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

made

very

for unpleasant
our

whfle, and

we

were

quite half
them. made

mile

on

road
across

before

of rid getting finally

Taking a by

short cut

the month

of

a onr

big carve
camp

the river hereabonts^ we

one

travelled to

of tJie

July 31st,missing the

way

of

Angnst Ist,passing on

the remains

of

vast

Bendili

encampment several

old. years Soon afterwards rhinoceros

and
our our men

were

of the by sight gladdened

accompaniedby a

rrCtoto(young and El Hakim one),

to Suddenly,

of offin chase her. set (George immediately

heard we astonishment,
a

the sound

of

shot from the other

was

side of
once

in ridge front.
we

The chase of the rhinoceros raced up the

at

abandoned, and
not

slope, expecting we
our

knew

what

nothing! met Nothing! absolutely

our

the stretched at country eager gaze ; abomination gravelly, stony

were so

feet

was

the usual
we

studded with the thorn trees

course

accustomed
as a

to ; the

of the river

showing in
of
a

the distance Strain

met
our a our

darker green
as

line in the brown

landscape.
safEui
we sworn

gaze

we

in might,nothing the way

eyes.

It was
so

We iaexplicable. also could the

men

could have

heard the

and shot,

nevertheless but ;
I fired
a

deserted. appeared absolutely landscape

own no

shot

firom my there would

.

multitudinous the but, rifle, beyond response. We treated the

oocurrence once more

echoes,
as we

was

and it other and riddle, up, any gave

on our

ceeded pro-

way. and "1 Hakim sight, comfcnrtaUe

was danger, was

in hove rhinoceros another Presently started

for him.
of

He

had

almost got within

of its

range

the brute, which, unconscious the men,

when busily feeding, raised

to "1

what he discovering
of prospect
a

after,

of yells

at the delight

feed at

and last,

Hakim's

intense annoyance

startled his quarry, which

RETURN

TO

THE

''GREEN in
can a

CAMP.''

183
"

made
"

off at

gallop.He
be to going

letumed

passion towering
eat

Wewe
**

Knla
Tm
not

mejani sassi"
and for yon,''

(You
a

said now), grass

I
am

he.

made

fool of when

trying

to shoot

meat

mule his moonting

he resumed

his

place at
Towards

the head of the safari.

eveningwe
we

reached

our

old camp
men

of

July 31st,

and

on

arrival
if there

sent immediately

cover back to try to dis-

were

any

signsof
men

another safari in the

was

bourhoo neigh-

One his rifle and

a

of the

also

with missing, together We

he that thought

valuable load of cloth.

mi^t
hill

have

sat down
on,
so we

to rest and fallen

and asleep, of

let the
a

safari pass
near

sent Jumbi

summit the up

lofty
burnt
be

the camp,

with
a

flare which gamekeeper^s and light,

for five minutes

with

brilliant blue

would

visible in that clear atmosphere and at that miles. As he did

not turn

for several height

or

up

that

night

the

next

in morning of
men
we

of the most spite

sent

s earch diligent

by the parties
had
sent

out, we

concluded The
on

that he had deserted and

men

gone

back

to ITthara.

other

whom

we

to look

for and
in

report

the

possible presence
We

of another

sa"ri had
men seen
as

the
no

returned, statingthat they neighbourhood

a

signsof

safariwhatever. of them

the questioned

to whether

any

had fired the shot, but

they
to

each
come

and
from

all denied the front

the shot had seemed it; besides, It

was a

mystery

which

we

never

solved.
Next
I morning left camp
some

half
meat

an

hour before the before the caravan,

away.

safari,
with
or so

in order to try to shoot

itsvaried noises, the game frightened

out of camp

A mile

saw was

a no

in the heisa) feeding solitary oryx {Oryx

cover, and

open.

There

the need
a

was

urgent,
range,

so

sank my

about scruples

at shooting

long

and

184

THROUGH

KIKUYU two

TO

GALLA-LAND. it at drive I let yards

to justwithin crawling

handled

with the '303. knock

My

bullet struck it in the

A

failed to but libs,

the beast

over.

second

shot

dean

through

die

shoulder did the business, however.

came

I waited tillthe

saEaii

up with me, and

joinedthem.
stiff as and
a a

The flesh of the cnyx

is

and when tough and tasteless, and hard, At the end of

a as

ordinaril dried the hide is extra-

board.
we

two
we

half hours' march

such
a narrow

readied

the

camp

at

which

had

from escape
now

destruction by fire on
burnt

July 30th.

It

was

completely
our

out, having evidently caught fire again after

fire had

The departure.
over

for the much, palms spreadvery

two
mere

miles

alongthe bank
out of the
a

reduced to being

collection

of

blackened

i n poles, many

still smouldering. places

so we

Camping was
river which
out from
our ran

question,
As
we were a path,

went

on

for again

another hour and

hal"
our

a small sand crossing

across

herd of water-buck

dashed

among

the

across palms fortyyardsahead,racing

was a a

front in fine

style.It
*303

chance

not

to be

missed,

and down

raising my
with
a

I took

and broughtone snapshot shoulder. Two upon

a or a

bullet

the through
I

three

hundred herd of
not

yardsfurther on

came unexpectedly

small

and another luckyshot laid low grantei,

a

fine buck; devoid of

at all
as

bad

work morning's
we

in

districtso

game

that

which through

were

passing.
we

Soon after I shot the water-buck

deviated to the

rights
a

the belt of palms,selected a shady spot and, entering

few

yardsfrom the river

the afternoon the

and

halted for

meal which
At

we

called

breakfast, though it was

we

past midday.

three o'clock in

were

againon

the road,and

remembering
It
was

''dnder-heap," kept dose

we

to the river-bank.
our

no

as use, however,

discovered to

intense

the that disgust

RETURN

TO

THE

''GREEN

CAMPy

185

lava
as

came

down right
were
no

to the

and there ended abruptly, river,

on

there

traces

of it

the
to

bank. opposite
a

Its

difficulties, were,
the fsEu^tthat it was water^s half
a

however, modified

great

extent

by

at intervals to descend possible

to the
even

edge, and march

mile

for sometimes

quarter or

the smooth along than two

sand.

After the open

was we

more

hours' wearisome
to the
"

tramp,
Green

we

into got It

plains stretching away

Camp."

then

growingdusk,and

as

we a

had stillsome

nules to go,

harried forward.

rhinoceros Presently solitary

about three hundred feeding, quietly EL Hakim

yardsaway
as

to

appeared, our right.

was

inquiredif
anxious to

I would

but shoot it,

hot,

I declined, and perhaps a Little tired, hinting short-tempered, that I

was see

him
was

put
an

lus

on short-range precepts

into shooting Hakim remark. would

practice.It
have been

El a nd speech, ungraeious

As it was,

quite right to have ignored my and but dismounted, he merelysmffed,

Juma asked pointedly
an

takinghis *577 "om

would like to accompany El Hakim alacrity. then advanced

George if

he

him,

with offer Georgeaccepted

walked

and, down, followed by George,

within then the of twenty yards raised his

to cautiously

rhinoceros. UDsuspecting

He

and, rifle,
of puff

pausinga
a

moment

to

aim, pulled the

stricken with
a

A trigger.
an

dense white smoke

f ollowed appeared,

instant later

by

heavy

The report.
away,

rhinoceros bullet

jumped,

then

galloped madly
dead falling It
was
a

the through

lungs,

before it had gone

yards. fifty
it looked
so

and pretty exhibition,

on

absurdly
it

that when, simple

the reportof El Hakim's the grass between

a second rifle,

rhinoceros jumped up "om

where us,

had been lyingunobserved, I snatched the Martini

from
up

ran and slipping into the breech, Bamathani, a cartridge

i86 to within

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND. off at banged

a

and yardsof it^ sixty

I

down kneeling
was

its shoulder.

admit

that
but I

sixty jraids
was

long

and

unsportsmanlike range,
before El Hakim, who the dead
of

anxious

to

bag the beast

his return
my from

was

it on approaching

in a direction at right to rhinoceros, angles

line

could get within range. fire,

Of

course

my

rhino,when
It

hit,behaved
its head

to El Hakim's. quitedifferently

galloped

madly,it is true,but
me,

in my

direction. It tail up, and

came

lowered

and

I
see

for straight another slipped

into my rifle, to cartridge expecting fully

a

fireworks within but

few seconds. very

Nearer and

nearer

it came,

justas
fate,

I braced my

myself up for the shot

that should decide my

swerved aside and commenced antagonist

what Neumann
round backing

calls the rhino's death-waltz, which consistsof

and

until it succumbs. round with its head in the air, he

was

In

another moment I quarry

down, and

as

surveyedmy prostrate
the back for what
I

mentally pattedmyself
a

on

considered

good performance.
had behind silently
sort

however, were My self-congratulations,

rudelydispelled
me^

by El Hakim, who
in

come

remarking thing you

hit the

his

quiet voice,''H'm-m, just the

me do,'' thereby covering

of

would
to

with confusion ; I ventured

me

remonstrate, and he then asked

I showed

where

I had

beast

him:

the bullet had

missed the shoulder and the windpipe-" artery

not

and struck the neck, severing the main the beasfs cutting

throatyin fact. ^'Does

that

I emphasizewhat have told

you?"

he

"Ifyouhad inquired.
bullet in the
As

close certain of be to enough gone would shoulder, you it is

a

placing your

not have

run

the risk you did.

it is,

very
so

luckythingfor
you
see

you

that your bullet struck the

more

artery;
to

you

owe

accident freedom from your

good luck than good shooting."

i88

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

great sighof

and relief,

Hakim El to back walking aasnnied performance,

and
an

who George,

had been

watchingthe

air of great nonchalance, and

a

Hakim El asked casually

for

at me cigar. That gentleman gazedsteadily

a

for a momiOiti^

but said never

in silence.

word, and

we

resomed

our

march interrupted

Having
push
on

now
''

bagged
Green

two

we rhinoceros,

determined

to

to the

had darkness though Camp,''

still some

already
distance El

fallen and behind.

the bulk

of the safari were

in

mules the Leaving

I

charge of Bamathani,
on we

and Hakim, Greorge,

on

pushed forward
inclined to

foot. We
were

matched

and

but on,

no we

sign of the camp

were

looking for
that
we

appeared,and
mistaken
our

think
seven

had

way

in the darkness.
we

At

o'clock in tiie almost like

evening,however,

reached it.
my

It seemed

coming home.
the

I had beeii on
was

feet since
up.
a

five in half-past El Hakim and

walk

and morning,
were

done thoroughly

Greorge
becomes three
our

not

much

better,
some

as

riding
hours

mule

at

very

after tiring

in the saddle. fire to large

or

We

some gathered

dry wood

and

lit a

guide
time,

men,

who

in presently straggled two

three at

till all had

arrived,with

the As

of exception

Jumbi, his
at

and the animals. assistants,

ten o'clock in the
we evening,

turned not had they up

out
a

got
a

rocket, signal large

and after

some

found searching

suitable stick and set it off.

as

however,went Something,
the rocket described into the into
an a a

wrong,

instead of

ascending pitched

low

curve

in the air and then

in the of front dry grass camp,

it setting instantly
It took
us

blaze.

We

had

to bestir ourselves then.

hour of hard work

with coupled

some

small amount

of

to get the profanity

flames subdued. struck us, and

we

The

humour

of the situation then

RETURN

TO

THE

"

GREEN

CAMP.''

189
our

laughed till our

poor
at alL
as

sides ached^to the greatastonishment of who

was

perspiring men,
Another
to

could not

see

in anything funny it

rocket
a

then sent up with better results,

burst most

it ascended
a

and greatheight
a as

satisfactorily
It
.

with

loud

and report

shower

of multi-coloured stars. hour afterwards Jumbi

answered

its purpose,
came

half

an

and

his assistants been

over

in with the
on

all dead beat, animals, having

fourteen hours

the road.

CHAPTER

XI.

DOWN

THE

WA80

NTIBO

ONCS

MORE.

We

send
of

tolTthaiafor the
men

gnidee" Sport
to

at

die

Gheen

Camp

''"Non-retom
safe
return

sent

ITthaia"
oar

Oor

anxiety"
down
"

Their

witii

gnides" guides
the
of the
"

We

contmne

march

the ^No

riyer"
"

Desertion ^We
meet

of
some

the

^We

push
men"

on

"

^Bad

oomitiy

game of

of

Somalia'
""

News land."

of the Bendili"

Loss

our

camel""

In

s^ghi

promised
the

Eablt

on
"

morning

following
three him
we

our

arrival

at

the
a

Green

Camp
to

we

despatchod asking
Embe, and,
if at
went
as

men

to
us

Ifthara
a

with

message

N'Dominnki,
"om

to send

couple
go

of Wand("robbo

guides

wished
it

to

across

country
further

to

Lololokwe,
to rest

we

deemed south back

to

necessary, of
two

north The
to

Mount of
a

Nyiro,
the
men

the

end the

Lake dead
out

Sudolph.
rhinoceroe

obtain and
out

supply
three

of

meat.

(George went
In

during
Hakim
as

the

day

shot

grantei
He took

the afternoon *450 secured

"1

also went he intended back the

shooting.

the He

Express,
four.

shooting grantei only.

to

On

his way had he

camp

he
to
a

was

annoyed
him,
in
so

by

rhinoceros

which pursuer adistance

of
on a

temerity planted
ten

stalk

waiting for his

brain,
the
at

neatly
of about

bullet
I

the creature's read that the

yards.

have

skull

rhinoceros

is "1

invulnerable, especiallyfrom
Hakim's

front, but
been

examining
from

beast, I noted

that

it had

shot

the

front,

190

nOWN

THE

WASO

NYIRO

ONCE

MORE.

191

the
at
no

bullet

the entering

temple and

skull the penetrating

brain. There t he was precisel J the proper angle, reaching bloody the bullet-hole being so clean-cut that the skin
over

dosed difficult and

the wound
to

in such
it had I have

manner

as

to
was

make
as

it
neat

discover where
a

been
ever

hit. It
seen"

irorkman-like "W^e

job as

stayed at the ''Green Gamp'' for some days^ to the larder, occasionally shooting supply cleaning game
our

ipreapons,

mending
our

our

clothes and

wise boots, and otherA zebra which

our

occupying
I

time to with

good purpose.
we

shot

suppliedus

hide, and

repaired
a

travelraw

torn

boots
over

by

the

of simple process
a

of piece stitching

hide

them

with

needle and surgical

in the air.
a

and then thread,

on as

hanging
it

the boots out formed

was

The

hide shrank

dried, and

well-fitting though clumsy fedrly

covering;
and

but it

requiredconstant
wear

onlya temporary arrangement at b^st, as over rough, stony ground renewing,

three marches. in through
of the camp

the hide would On the

to the eastward plains

"

roamed

vast

herds of game
wore

Bhinos and zebra, water-buck, granteL oryx, Hakim

E l disgustingly frequent. had

shootingtwo
abroad
or

more

that

evinced when

an

his regarding impertinent curiosity

was

movements,
The

he

takinga
Wtmocffros

walk

one

noon. after-

rhinoceros the

were

aU of the black

prehensilewe

Upped varietyof
that
other We

bicamis,and
smaller

found
than

they had,
all

on

the average,
same

much

horns

specimensof the

south of Eenia. family

I

kept
we

in

and health, splendid (^eorge almost be black

content

in

particular being burnt

and
we
we were

by
to

the fierce sun; remain

was
more were

felt that for

an

should

where
than free
as

indefinite
was

period.Gkune
and glorious,
we

the climate plentiful,

192

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

the pure
in placed

air

we

breathed.

Only
did We

those who

have

been foil

similar

drcumstances
"

can

the appreciate

value of that word

free." We
own our

what precisely
rose

seemed
in

good
the

to

us

in

our

eyes.

early,bathed
went

warm

ate spring,

and then breakfast,

sat in
a

shooting

for if disinclined we that, or,

in folding-chair tjie
our ever clothes,

shade and

of the
anon

trees

and
our

read, or mended
eyes
to

raising

watch
on

the herds down

of game
to the

steadily past our walking

river to drink. and herd.
even

camp

their way know

In time

we

got

to

the various herds,

of

to

individual members recognize their

the

same

The different herds also had

never were

fbr times regular

a

which drinking, The water-buck

varied the

by

more

than

few minutes. down

earliest; they
the precisely

came

after sunrise. would

were
come

At ten

o'clock

jasl grantei gracefdl

bucks.

down

in herds, scouted

by the young

They

followed at

midday by
down

the oryx; and

at four in the

afternoon the zebra arrived in their turn.

on

The

rhinoceros,

the contrary, went

at

all times, whenever

they
left

at drink felt inclined, thoughtheyusually

night.
we

It

was

Arcadian perfectly the

our

which existence,

with very real regretwhen

us once more

of travel compelled exigences weary march

over

to

resume

the

sun-

scorched desert country down-river.

During
made
a

our

stay my
were

shot-gun was

not

idle. In

the

there evenings welcome

a

numerous
our

doves in the
menu

which vicinity,
now

change in
One

and

and

again

I secured

few grouse.

Hares,too,were
about night,

always obtainable
eleven
we o'clock,

with
were our

littletroubla

called out of bed

by

who the sentry,

put his head into

tent,and

in

an

awestruck

''Kiqa whisperejaculated,
see

kutasamo

m'bogo, Bwana"

(C!ome and

the

bufialo,

DOWN

THE

WASO

NYIRO

ONCE
we

MORE.

193

master). Hatdm, who

in the

We

went

where outside,

were
was a

El by joined brilliantmoonlight visible clearly

had also been called. the country was On the bank

It

night, and
as

almost

as

daytime.
camp,
a

of

our

little stream, just

opposite the

buffalo herd of was mighty of

our

marching they
the

utterly unconscious along,

up stalked

showed They proximity.

brilliant in the as d istinct moonlight, wondiorfally

past majestically

cloud passing
sense

covered
and

face of the moon,

was now

and the weird

of power

grandeur
as

farther dim and

by heightened

the temporary

obscurity,
We

the

moved past. procession ghost-Uke

a

gazed

at them awe,
as

with
we
so on

that feeling
us

was

half exultation and half been vouchsafed

so a

reflected that to

had alas !

sight
to

at once

and now, impressive

rare.^ the
men

As

the fifth day after the

were

of despatch

M'thara

there

stillno

of them, we signs
man

b^an

to grow

and anxious, with

sent Jumbi

and another
in

back to
at
we

investigate,
Our finished all Two

orders to return also

three

days

the utmost. had

were provisions

as growingshort,

our

sugar;

the mustard

also had
nor

given out
men

days
to

as later,

neither Jumbi
an

the three
we

first sent

ICthara had put in

to pay
a

appearance,
on we

made

arrangements
to find out

to v isit M'thara flying

the morrow,
were more

what

had

become

of

them, as

than

little

anxious about the absentees

two leaving
no or

their

The safety.
no

next

morning,therefore,
started for the camp.

havingmade
three
men

we sign,

M'thara,
We took
some

in

chargeof

but a blanket each and baggage"nothing food, with a good supply of ammunition. together
or

tents

After the
in

two
^

hours
The

on

the

road, to

our

relief great

we

met

has allbat rinderpest

exterminated the buffalo and the eUnd

on

British East Africa, as elsewhere

the African continent.

194

THROUGH

KIKUYU two

TO

GALLA-LAND.

with laggards retuming ITDoiuinuki t hat explained

in

Wandorobbo

guides. Th^

had

some experienced

difELculty
in

and they the guides, were procnring

were

detained. consequently

We
to at

too

thankful that

us they had rejoined we

safstj

examine critically
once

their story,so
a t arriving steps,

let it pass, and

retraced

our

the "Green

Canip"

at three o'clock in the afternoon*

The

guides
both

were

of Wandoiobbo the typical specimens

hunter, and

resembled greatly

each

other in appearanca
grey and
were

They
hair.

were

with elderly gentlemen,

grizzled
bowed,

Though

of medium

their height, the

backs

by partly
heads

and age

partly by

stooping, creepingposture
the road

when adopt they

thrust

as walking. They trod softly cats, their

forward, nothingon

their escaping
were

observant

gaze,

though seemingly they

carried
a a

lost

in

abstraction. Each with tipped tied

small bow,

bundle of arrows,

and poison,

A strip of goatwalking-staff. skin, "Euras

the

over

the lefb shoulder, as descending

an

and waist,a bead necklet,

armlet

or

two

completeda

ocmluggage of sisted of a small skin bag, a a knife, containing couple wood for making fire, and a few pieces of of string; pieces
no

by

means

costume. superabundant

Their

and in addition each carried four

or

five pounds of leaves into

Eikuyu

tobacco, wrapped up

with

banana

spherical
a we

parcela
From

them

we

learnt that the

"

Bendili

were

long
had
next

distance down been.

This
we

the river

^much

farther down
us on once

than

revived intelligence
set off
once more

somewhat, and
our

morning

journey down
more

the

river. The

was "cinder-heap"

crossed, but"
the
one

thanks to the

by guides,
had
made

much

better road than

by

which

we

our

toilsome march*

The

gomg

196

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

scattered

with m ingled everywhere, of quartz of pieces

a

flakes of

rock-Grystal
to

and smaller of presence and

a

due colour, greenish

the

epidote. Stunted and misshapen thornyacacias

almost the
I onlyvegetation.
was

few aloes formed

w hen climbinga gravelly laboriously slope,

was
a

tliere suddenly

rush

and

roar

as

of

mighty

whirlwind in
some

bearing
alarm, as

down directly it is very with

upon

me.

I looked round
one
on

in unpleasant beingcaught
to

of these dust-devils
to.

nothingsolid handy
see

hold

To Not

my
a

intsense leaf
or a

I surprise could

nothingwhatever.
a

branch

and stirred,

not

of dust particle

or

sand

rose.

The
nearer

in drew s ound increased and volume, rushing, tearing

and

nearer,

in full blast not finally seeming

more

than

twenty feet fix"m where I stood.

air
as

But

stirred nothing ; the

was

and everything else remainingstill clear, perfectly

It
a

deatL

was

most

uncanny

sensation.

I abandoned
a

the idea of blow-hole

whirlwind, thinking perhapsthere might be

for escaping volcanic gasee. vicinity that under carefully neighbourhood
sort.

in the

searched the but found

Two
or

impression,
same

of the nothing

the Finally,

sound died away.

three times after that,duringmy On

one

walk, the
to be

occurred. thing the very midst

occasion I seemed

in standing and roared

to

of the whirlwind. and I

It rushed

round about me,

involuntarily grippeda
I

tree-trunk But

shock. the expected against steady myself moved. nothing happened;

my
reason
am

nothing

not
was

nervous
a

and person,

convinced

me

that there

natural perfectly
a

the for explanation

I had but, nevertheless, phenomenon,

I the small back. in of was sensation irritated nasty my very the the noise. discover of to unable at cause also, being

The next

day
our

we

marched

over

the

now

fiamiliar desert the

country

to

old

''Swamp Camp.'' Bemembering

DOWN

THE

WASO

NYIRO

ONCE

MORE.

197

midges^
liver. of
over

we

did not stop

but there,
a

poshed gneiss

on

for another

mile^ and

damped
feet.

on

the top of

the cliff overlooking

rose

Oppositeus
300
of

the clifb of red The

to

height by
a

face of the cliffwas

inhabited

thousands
over
our

who monkeys and baboons, excitement

a

chattered
not

excitedly

an arrival,

which

was

by allayed
They
at
once

bullet I sent

through
wall

group with
a

of them, which flattened itself

against the diff

scattered from thence
went

sharp smack.
behind safety
in

to various

of places

the rocks,and

made

rude remarks

monkey language.
a

We
route

out after lunch to make

short survey of the

ahead.

The

result

was

most

a more discouraging;

barren and

I had d^solate landscape

we

never

seen.

Soft brown
strewn

into which earth, volcanic

sank

over

our

was ankles,
our

with

dSbrxB in the
was Vegetation

shape
a

of

old enemy

the lava

blocks. al"ence.
cross

and scarce, game

its by conspicuous

It seemed

rather

task to hopeless
we

attempt

to to

sudi
a

but country without guides, effort.

determined

make

supreme
were
now

We
I had
a

to suffer a Uttle for want beginning

a

of salt.

in my stomach,with nastysinking feeling

even alwaysfelt empty inside,

tendency
week

to vomiting, and I

immediately
a

after a very fuU meat

or

meal; but this wore

a

off after

two.

We

were

restricted to which
our

few

ounces

of native meal pensable the indiswith

(m'wele) per diem,

meat, which
For
some was

chefde
on

cmsme,

Bamathani,made
the

into Uttle flat cakes,Med

our menu.

item other only

over ploughed

days we
It
was

the rotten

brown the

earth

justdescribed.

as painful experience, our

sharp
sun

blocks of quartzand lava bruised

was

ill-shod feet. The

shimmered distant d anced and and hot, intensely objects

in the heat-haze.

198
On

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.
we were

the

of morning

August the 15th

we

had

camped

for

breakfast

on

when the river-bank,

excited greatly tiie

by

of two sight
men an

down further peacefully sheepgrazing in started immediately

and pursuit,

river. Our them after

captured
All that
we

chase. exciting
were

They

were
a

of the fat-tailed doubt

and variety, afternoon

saw was

Rendili
in

sheep beyond

spent

but the round, country searching

us

no

led that signs

El Hakim

to
a

believe that the country was rhinoceros while He

was we were

inhabited.
It
was

shot

out

in feeding

the open.

and the '577, carrying who George,

stalk to it,accompanied by proceeded the -450

El Hakim

carried

Express.
motioned

When
to

within

of the yards thirty

rhino,
he ; and

George

to remain where

he

was

himself crawled hunted formed

a

to the yards thirty

left,

so

that hunters

El Hakim triangle.

and the rhino, on fired, upon

down the shot, chargedstraight receiving

was

George.

It

then that I had

nerve

an

of opportunity

a wonderful observing

exhibition of

and true

on part, (Jeorge's sportsmanship we

begottenof the confidence

skill. wounded in firing beast's mad
order
not
was

both

El in placed

Hakim's the

rifle his the at Holding

ready, George awaited

a

rush without
to

from tremor, refraining

second

El spoil

Hakim's

barrel
"

confidence which

that the as result, fuUy justified by

individual's left barrel

was

spoke when

the

enraged rhinoceros
a

within

dozen

with dead it yardsof Geoige, dropping

bullet

the heart. through

George afterwards
We
were

declared that would

he could not have fired in

meat

have
a

stood the strain much seconds

more.

and longer, had

now

few

sufficient
to

for our

immediate

needs,and

still determined

push on, though the country seemed

of game, and be ourselves feeding and
our

almost
men

devoid entirely
was

to getting

quite

serious

problem. A rhinoceros only lasted the

DOWN two

THE

WASO

NYIRO

ONCE

MORE. cuts

199

men

of its huge bulk,it days,as, in spite

up

very

badly^there being a good

the men,
who
even

deal of waste
were

and, in addition,
meat-

at

times ordinary

tremendous

eaters, in the entire absence of cereals, a carnal developed

appetitethat

can

be described only

as

monimientaL resumed

Betuming
the march, When himself fided in
an

to the

where spot

we

had lunched,we

goinganother
the
tents

mile down
were

the river before camping. busied

Bamathani pitched, of

in
an

cookingour

meal unpalatable Soon

grantei-steak
we

of insufficiencyfat

afterwards

heard

excited shriek of "Afreet I afreet!" and

some

from devil) (Devil, him.

He ya

"Ramathaui
up
to
me

of the other
me

men

near
"

rushed

and
"

implored
"

to

bringmy
"
"

bunduki

n'dege

"

I and afreet." the (literally, bird-gun ") laughingly slay where the afreet was, and he pointed inquired upwards

into the

branches

of

largetree, whose
he
was

branches

spread

over laterally
see

the fire at which

was

I could not cooking. away,

and anything,
men

about
so

to turn

him ridiculing

but the

appeared
"

I that terror-stricken genuinely of my

pausedand looked up
discovered that the

again. Judge
afreet
"

when surprise than

a

was a

nothing
A

more

large
the had

water-lizard stretched out

on

on

branch.

dose of No. 6 shot

a

the side of the head Examination

or

it down brought showed that

with

thump

on

ground.
shock.

none

of my

shot

its skull penetrated None

body,it

stimned being merely

by the

of the

men

could be induced to touch it under

was

it that whatever, saying any pretext

poisonous, highly

and its bite meant

I carried it
over

instant
to
our

death ; so, table.

it seizing
up

by

the taU,
I
was

It woke

while

bite to and, it, upwards,attempted squirming carrying

me,

causing
me

to

drop

it

to the intense hurriedly,

amusement

of the

men.

I killed and

dissected it. Its heart beat for

200

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

quitehalf
The

an was

hour

after I had

removed

it from
over
a

the

body.

reptile
The
next sent

four feet in
we

and length,

foot in

girth.

morning
out

divided the search the

a

men

into small

parties
and

and

them

to

for country surrounding

near

while inhabitants,

climbed
the

hill

the

camp

minutelyexamined, with
round ; but in vain. the country and

the whole binoculars,

no

coimtiy
;

There

was

inhabitants of sign any

be deserted to seeming the

sun scorching

by

man

and beast alike,

of

lay

under

''the abominatbn

desolation."
I returned to camp
at the
same

at

midday,the
traces

search

ing returnparties
seen
no

time
nor

that they had reporting indeed

our

signs

of the

Sendili

of

anybody whatsoever.
the river at halfalmost

We

therefore resumed
two

march The

down

past

in

the

afternoon. the

vegetationhad
and

with disappeared,
a

that alongthe exception

trees

river-banks

few

rows

of thorn lines of

here

there indicated the

of position

in depression the earth's surface, probably

strewn

the beds of sand rivers ; the rest of the country was with dSbrii which stony converted
a

march

into

painful

and difficult pilgrimage. At sundown

we

found that it the but was tents, pitched into the the so rocky ground, boulders
our

to impossible

drive the pegs

to be made

guy and

had ropes

fast to To
as

huge
to
sun

collected

pUed
all

for the

purpose.
up

add

discomfort,a

cold wind strong

guns

sprang

the

set^and blew great

in thundering
a

the tents night,

and thrashing

way

that

moment threatened a nd sleep, precluded every

to blow
men

bodilyaway.
a

Firewood

also

was

scarce, and the

spent
Bendili

most

miserable
we

nightin consequence.
for keeping
we
our

The
own saw

two

which sheep,

had been

consumption,
them

escapedduring the

and night,

never

again.

DOWN

THE

WASO

NYIRO

ONCE

MORE.

201

We

did not

long linger
our

in that

at but spot, inhospitable

sunrise

againresumed
was

march weary

down-stream.
men,

Grame

the a nd non-existent, absolutely last of the rhinoceros, were it

was

having
of

finished the food. unless

were

in

need great

Where
we

to be
one

obtained
or a

we

could not
our

imagine,
we

were

to kill

two

of

which cattle,

loth to do, except as very After

a

last resource. very

we

solid four hours' march

a

camped on
determined

the riveron

bank
morrow

under

dump
one

of

palms,

and

the

to make

last effort to find the Bendili

by

means

of search

and parties,

then, if there
our

were

still no

of signs

them,to make

the best of

way

back to the game

country

by forced marches.
The animals
were

sadly out
were
we

of condition for want

we were

of

and proper
if we
went

sufBdent

nourishment,and

afraid that
our

further and

still unsuccessful in could back. get

''

search,

theywould

all die before

no

It is a

long

lane that has

four and o'clock about h owever, turning,"

one

in the afternoon look for game, had

seen

of the men,

whom

we

had sent out to

he

came

into camp,

exdtedly that shouting

Hakim
and

"many

people."El

G^rge
*'

at

once
"

saddled up the mules and turned

out to be

The investigated.

many

people
boimd for

Somalis' of the eighty

on

men,

Dhaicho (a trading settlement

in order to

the eastern

side of

Embe)
us

buy

food.
the

Most
main

of important

all, they told

among

that Ismail,with
who Bendili,
were

body,was

camped

the

fivedaytlmarch
us

dawn further

the river.
men

This

news

cheered

up

Resting our wonderfully.

for the remainder

on

of the

day, we

were

on

our

way

again

the

following morning long before

us men

l ed daylight,

by

a as

guide lent
fast as
our

by

the

Somalis.

We
we

pushed forward
had every
reason

could travel, and

for

202

THROUGH

KIKVYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

as haste,

thej were
the
men

without entirelj forenoon

food.

We
At
at

halted least

at
tM

ten

o'clock in

for breakfast

the breakfasted,
we

having
At
two

nothing to
o'clock
we

eat
were

all, while
the
men

had

little more.
at

again on night,the
of

road, and

four

o'clock

camped
in

for the

being exhausted. Wa'kamba,

did

Jumbi, and Malwa, the head-man

not
come

the

with

the

others.
or

Inquiries
Malwa's
and

elicited the fact that,owing to either Jumbi's the five carelessness,

were

camels
was

had
very

strayed
much

on

the road
as

lost. El Hakim
very

annoyed,

he

had

alwaysbeen
and

them tenderly, proud of his camels,nursing

ensure

taking greatpainsto
The
next
nor

their health and comfort.

neither turned had not camels the morning up, Malwa.

El

had Jumbi

Hakim, being eager

on

to reach the

Bendili encampment, and

a

pushed and little food,leaving George

and Malwa
very
were
me

with
me

but nothing

his tent

behind with the bulk

At

of the safari to send search eleven o'clock Jumbi the camels. El Hakim's

camels. the after o ut parties

camie

into camp

vnthatU

They
anger,

were

dreading rightly firightened,

relieved when considerably
in camp. At

and

they found
some

only Georgeand
whom
we

that

moment

of the men,

had

the earlier in despatched in and

morning
to

in search

of the
seen

missing animals, came

the tracks of the camels the hills, some be the extreme

that reported
away

they had

leading
days'
eastern northbUes

the south

t owards straight

journey

which distant, end

proved
I

to

of the Jombeni

inhabited range,

by

our

noires the Wa'embe.

J umbi immediatelydespatched
men

and

Malwa,
to

togetherwith

the

who

had

seen

the

tracks,
if

follow them

them up, instructing

to find the camelB

as

but possible,
on

if not, to return Hakim.

and follow me,

was

going
they

after El

After

they

had

rested awhile

204

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA^LAND.

unexplored "Lorian."
Marifli el
emotions joyful
at our

The It

I plateau
can

recognized

as

the what

Lugwazambo.
we

be
mass

with imagined of vivid green of brown

gazed on
so

the

spread
earth

after feet, bare

as

many

scorching days quite realize

the ''Promised

and

rock.

could
on

the sensations of Land''

from

Moses summit It desired

he

gazed

the

of Mount
was

Pisgah.
time, too, that
men

almost Our

we

reached

our

longsinoe

goal

had

not

enjoyeda

fiQl meal

"1 Hakim
were

shot the rhinoceros four We ourselves

two

and they days before,

were

almost famished.

littlebetter o"^
a

having tasted nothingfor

M'wele

days
a

but

few

miserable We

cakes, no

largerthan
the summit
as we a

five-shilling piece.
an

could not

stop

on

of the hill for

indefinite
our

however, much period,

were

admired

the view

"

needs

too
we

so imperative ;

with
cast

last longlook at the beautiful for

our a

scene,

turned

and

about
To

which by path
we

to

descend to the

plain below.

dismay,

discovered out feet withor

that the cliffdroppedsheer down foothold

for two

hundred

enough for
success,

After goat.
we were

tryingtwo
the i n lidge, It
was
a

three

without places force

our some

compelledto eventually hope

even

way

along the crest of the

sort of

of

finding

path

nearer

the river.

terrible

scramble, and
natives had
man ever ever

I should

think it very
to the

that unlikely
"

been The

on

before top

certainly
no

white
an

had.

wait-a-bit thorns grew

in together work

almost
our

constant wall, necessitating impenetrable to

with
our

knives

free ourselves.

Great

boulders barred
our

and progress, that

and gravel
we

under slipped pebbles covered

a

feet^so

by

the time

had

mile

we

were

tired out

Just before sunset

for the descent.

a possibly likely place spotted (George but by looked desperate It certainly enough,

X H

.J

-"1

DOWN

THE

WASO

NYIRO

ONCE

MORE.

205

this tdme

we

were

the beyondcounting

risks.
to

We

scrambled every

down,
few

from boulder therefore, leaping

boulder,and

moments
our

having

to

stop

in order to cut

ourselves free

with

knives from the

embrace clinging skin the

of the

ubiquitous
and

''wait-a-bit." Our
we were

clothes and
to

suffered bottom

but terribly,

determined and

reach

somehow,

plunged

scrambled

of minor downwards, regardless

personal injuries.Halfway
among El
to

down

we

heard
I

shot from

the greenery
'450. of

near

the river, which it with

as recognized

Hakim's

I answered
our

another shot in order continued the descent.

our bleeding,

him apprize
we

and presence,

Finally
clothes
us,

reached the bottom, breathless and

in literallyribbons. The

donkeysand
remarkable

cattle followed

scrambling down
I could not

in

some

manner,

though

how

stop to inquire. Most

of by the sight
to
never

like probablythey,
the green

were ourselves,

induced

vegetation
at any

and

the smell of water

attempt

descent which

other time Another

us

they would
where spot

have faced.
an

of three-quarters

hour
was

over

the flatbrought The

to the
we

El Hakim

already camped.
a was

report

had heard had been the death-knell of

at
a

Waller's divided

WaUeri), which (jAQhocTam,vm gazelle

among
to
one

once

the men,
on

so

that

they had

at least

taste of meat

go

with

"

we

ourselves
on

diningon

two

guinea-fowl having been

turned
were

of which

I had shot

the road,the other

were

secured in
not
now

by El Hakim.
we

We had

all tired out, and The eating.

so

immediately

finished

tents

needed, the climate onwards, till we

back to Kenia, we
were

being
once

mild.
at this
use

Indeed, from

more

point on
at

our

way

did not need to

the tents

aU,

the of for sake except

privacy.

CHAPTER

XII.

IN

THE

BENDILI

ENCAMPMENT.

Narrow
"

esci^
^No

from
"

pjrthon
"

^Arrival among

the

Barkeneji
Massacre

and

Bendfli
of the

ivory

Baying
the

fot-tailed Wa'embe
"

sheep

instead"

Somalia' His

porters by

Consternation

of Ismail

Bobli"

letters to Nairobi.

At of

sunrise

next

morning

we

were

awakened

by
raucous

the

twittering
screams

ionnmerable

song-birds,
and

and

by

the

of

the
was

guinea-fowl
a

firancolins the

calling
clear
a

to

their sunshine

mates.

It soft
in

perfect morning, atmosphere

bright,
one

and

balmy
the

reminding
Our of the

of

summer

morning instantly to quickly

Mediterranean. influence

spiritsresponded
soft
of

the pelled dis-

cheering

sunshine,
fanune and

which

the had
a

gloomy
us

spectres
so

desolation
our

which with been

haunted

for

long.

We
to

resumed which
we

journey
had

cheeriness

and

sprightUness

long

strangers.
On which the here road
were

I had

good

time

among

the

guinea-fowl, They
in
a

of

the
I

Vulturine

variety.
to

were

and exceedingly plentiful, few tails times

managed
very

bag

five

very

minutes,
and
most
run

aU

large

and

handsome

birds, with

long
are

beautiful difi"cult
over

light
birds sand

blue
to

breast
as

feathers.

They
very

at

shoot,
at
a

they

will

seldom
out

rise, but
of

the
In

great rate, keeping just

of
a

effective

range.

the

absence
206

dog,

the

only

way

IN

THE

RENDIU

ENCAMPMENT. at fall

207

to shoot them

is to
"

nm

after them
"

till, speed, by
rise.

gaining
The

on

them

^no

task easy
one

theyare
to

to compelled

moment

theyget up,
Even
then
or

has

and let stop instantly

rise always

drive at them. but in groups

if shooting
a

will not they

together,
accurate

of two

three, necessitating very

which obtained;
a

bag
one

is to be

is not

always

when possible and

is pufiTed by

two

hundred

yards' sprint,

heavily. consequently panting

Yellow-throated francolins
of the roots
were

fairly plentifoLThey
with shrubbery

in and dodged

out

of the

great

and agility, also

were

were

difficultto correspondingly

hit

Pigeons
a narrow

very

numerous.

While escape. which

I

the following
was

I had guinea-fowl

rather

a crossing dry, coarse patch of long, a

grass, way

grew

in

small

A s depression.

I forced my
a a

through, my eyes upon looked down, and, quickas I instantly feet

back
three
or

the birds,I heard

rustle at my

flash, jumped

four

A feet, shivering violently. large bright

ten feet in

yellow snake,mottled with gamboge,about

and
as

length
d;d

thick

as

my

arm,

glided away

into the
a

tangled grass

and
not

I disappeared.
see

supposed it was
was

I python, though

much

of it, nor

I anxious to

investigate. half-past
and

We twelve

halted for breakfast at ten

El
we

o'clock. At four
men

Hakim
were

went

on

ahead march

with from

his

tent, as
he
was

only one
men

the Bendili,and
were

anxious to meet with the

them.
and

I and Qeorge start

to

stay

behind
were

animals and We

as later, they

not

rested. sufficiently

waited tillhalf-past two,

and

then followed him. Soon after

we starting

lost his
course

but pushed on tracks, river. We

soon

the nevertheless, following reached the

of the

point where

the Waso

into the divided Nyiro

liPTE^
Zr SET iiZ?Z7iILr

jr^."JEMJ5Z

'i

j"iirr:aL

It

:jrmaasaLLjd

^czz^L-irs^

icr

r"-

:2a*

2o8

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

numerous

channels

we

had

observed
we

from

the the

t he hilltop

and previous evening, We had

there

first met

BurkenejL

to lost sight of the river, and, striving temporarily of belt dense Doum a we it, through struggled palms, regain

emerging to eventually
river.
one

find ourselves in the bed of

a

sand

We

followed its course, and in

few minutes
It
was

reached
not
a more

of the channels of the Waso

a

Nyiro.

than

foot

deep
We
a

at this place, over flowing smoothly

soft
were

bed of sand.

and to drink, stopped

while in the act

confronted bush
on

by

who few natives,

I

suddenly emeigedfrom
on

the

the other side.

put
a

my

most

amiable
a

smile,

and walked hesitation

one

into the river

or

littleway.
"

After

moment's indeed

two

of the
we

Burkeneji ^forit
in mid-stream.

was

they
"

did

and likewise, and

met

I held out be

my

hand

said

''

yambo,"on
hand

the chance that it would

understood.

My

vis-a-vis answered

^'serian" immediately
word the repeated This

(peace), shakingmy
after him in
a

I vigorously.

very

hearty manner,
across

not at all assumed.

appearedto
natives
men. now

be
came were

the precisely

rightthing to do, as

other
our

the river and fraternized with

They
much

fine,clean, wholesome-looking n^roes,

Masai
in appearance, A

veiy

the resembling

but,unlike
chorus

them, were
"

habited in cloth instead of skins. resounded

our on

of

serian

"

all sides.

"

One of

Wakamba

named
we or

Mumbo

could

speak
left our
"

little had
found new-

Masai, and

him through

learned that El Hakim

two

passed
well

near

there

an

hour

before.

We

and departed amid another chorus of friends,

at pleased
so our

serian,"
we

first

with meeting

the tribes

had

braved We

much
on

to find.

went

in the direction

Burkeneji as

the

path

taken

out pointed by El Hakim,

to

us

by the
saw no

but

IN

THE

RENDIU

ENCAMPMENT. to

309

traces

of him.

Keeping

the river

as

being the
or

best

possibleguide,we
Just before sundown
to camp,

travelled another
we

eight

nine

miles.

reached

an

where acacia thicket,

on

I decided

for El search Hakim t he continuing

the

morrow.

The

donkeys were
a preparing

and Ramathani off-loaded, strolled out (George

a

busied
camp,

himself in and while

meal.

of

discovered r ound "fossicking" three hundred

Burkeneji
I went

in village the acacia forest about

yardsaway.
as

Taking
oyer were or

Mumbo

with

us

as

and George interpreter,

to meet appeared us,

to the out

No village.

one

the

men

in bringing
women

the cattle and

stood

for sheep the

Two night.

three young

about with empty nulk- vessels,

to
come

for the herds evidently waiting

in.

They

were

quite

and approachedus, laughing at the curious fearless, merrily

figures Georgeand I must have cut in our tattered shirts and and clumsy boots covered with zebra-skin. They trousers well built, and were undeniably plump, very pretty, saucy,
and
were

clothed with

small,very small, piece of doth

numerous

about and and and

some

their brass

middles, and
armlets.

small stood
a

bead
or

necklaces
so

wire
our

They
then

yard

away,

discussed

personal appearance
and
our

with

great freedom
to
one

animation,now
new

out pointiog not

another

item in
a

make-up

and noticed, previously

came
a

into breaking
a

heartylaugh. George
He

in for

more

than

fair share of their attention. him do always pay girls

more

is

fine, big chap,and

the

attention than he deserves ; he justice, was

never

do him to both white and black, though, conceited in consequence. As

men,
we

stood there

for the return waiting

of the
as

Burkeneji

the

the of description

Anglo-Saxon
and

the ^'heir of

all the the

ages" occurred to me,

I chuckled

inwardly at

of two spectacle

of ''heirs all the ragged

ages"standing
p

2IO

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND. of the saucy have

no

outside

little negro
a

the village,

butts helpless
a

tongues of
ambitions

group

of little of negresses

tribe who
no

beyond their dailywants, them; and who, as far as supplying

classified definitely by ethnologists.

and

ideas
are

beyond
not

I know,

yet

followed strode native by tall, Presently dignified up,

a

several others. and height,

He

was

not certainly

less than six feet in At village.

proved
women

to be
ran

the chief of the

away
"

his

approach the
remarks.
in

^not very

far, however, but

in the remaining

frivolous continued their they background,

seem

The

chief did not

at all

either; respectful
otherwise. We

fact, he appearedrather bored

usual
"

than

exchanged the
medium
of the

serian," and

then, through die

location of the

I inquiredthe interpreter,

Somalia' camp. I

The

reply

was

that it

was

"quite near."
thither.

suggestedthat the chief should guide us

to the camp returning to
we

He the
our

and acquiesced,

loaded up followed

much donkeys again, new-found In half

and

their

and disgust,

guide.
an

when it was hour,

we was

quitedark,the guidehalted,
as

said that

had better camp, very annoyed

the Somalis' camp

of

was

"quitefar." I expressed my
not
was

at this turn

and afbirs^

intention of
once

goingon

whether
see

it was

dark

or

We

started

more,

but I could

that the

guide

and unwilling very

sulky.

I heard the Presently

bleating

of

a nd ascertained and the darkness to in the left, sheep goats the

from

guide that the sound

he finally

came

from

Bendili

village,

I resolved to camp and

camp

there ; but he

I objected.

ever, howinsisted,
I

the led reluctantly way.

the pitched
sure

just

outside the the

village,
so

that I

be might

of

in a guide obtaining
The

morning.
came

Eendili in the

then village

out to us, and ofiTered

IN

THE

RENDILI

ENCAMPMENT.

211

"resh
a

milk goat's

for sale. We

bought about

for gallon

few red

for five yardsof merikani I beads,and in exchange

were

also

which two sheep, procured

who

immediately slaughtered
the night gazelle

for the men,

raised

heartycheer thereat, as, with the

for four

the of exception

of tinyportion Waller's

before,it
milk
we

was

their first regular meal

days. The

and Gleorge and I partookfireely of it, too boiled,

our

the considering state of freely perhaps,

stomachs,as, after
Our effect

drinkingabout
heads
swam,

quart each,we
we

both felt very queer.

and

were

very

dizzyand weak, the

similar that to being

At

producedby alcohoL
secured
a

daybreak

we

of Bendili couple
on

youths as
our we

a nd guides,

bush belt of a through proceeded

near

way

to

the Somalis' camp, find El Hakim. This bush belt

which

I felt convinced

should

was

quite a

mile wide, and

owed

its

existence to the sand had not yet

of largeproportion

earth that the desert

the with close c overed, coupled thoroughly

the Waso of proximity

Nyiro.

The

bushes grew in between. with

clumps,
were a

with

smooth

patchesof ground
blue-black

They

beautiful vivid green, leaves and

ten

covered thickly and berries, berries

narrow longish

feet to averagedeight

feet in

height.These

resembled greatiy
a

black

currants

in appearance.

They
a

contained

with covered seed, spherical

was

of layer

smooth large, which pulp, glutinous

to nasturtiimi

hot to the

and something similar palate,

seeds
of

in flavour. The and berries,

guinea-fowl
were

were

fond particularly
to

these

in consequence

be found

in

largenumbers

in the bush.

Every few yards littleground

like the American darted across our squirrels, chipmunks, of duiker while the smallest the antelopes tiny path; of and again scurried hurriedly the shelter to now away
" "

312

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

more

distant bush. the

Little naked

sand-rats

were

very

numerous,

tinyconical heapsof

excavated sand outside

their burrows

being scattered everywhere. At

size afforded large
a a

intervals,

clumps of

acacias of

certain amount taken fact fully

such

of shade from the vertical rays of the sun,

of by advantage
a

the Bendili, as
were

we

noticed that where

clump existed we
After

certain to find a
an

village.

for about tramping

hour

this charming through

and

we refreshing scenery,

arrived at Ismail Bobli's bozna.

or

El Hakim's
away from

tent

was

two pitched

three hundred later El build

a

yards
Hakini

it

on

the left. A welcome under

us.

moment

himself but
two

to appeared

We

did not

boma,

pitchedour
hundred the During

camp

the shade of the

palms some
to bathe in

from yards

the river.
I went
our

morningGeorgeand
near

down

the river.

ourselves of Divesting the

into the shallow water

ventured we clothing, out bank, keepinga sharplookI had

not

for crocodiles meanwhile.

I before uttered steps
a

advanced

many

and jumped wildlyabout, to yell, about to was George. conduct,but when extraordinary he intended to say resolved
!
"

the intense astonishment the inquire he

reason

of

He

of my

his whatever mouth, opened

a

itselfinto

sudden
as

sharp

''

Ouch

and

he commenced

to

dance about

I as myself. Something(which wildly

wards after-

found to be and
our especially

had attempted to bite leeches)

but toes, causing anything
a

our

l^s,

pleasant

sensation.

was consequently, Bathing, were a

only indulgedin
diles, croco-

under

We difiEiculties.
to bathe in but

of fear f or compelled,
even

foot of water, and

then

our
tinuously con-

ablutions

were

only

rendered
so

possible by keeping
were we

in motion, fasten
on

that the leeches The instant

unable

to

to

our

persons.

discontinued

IN

THE

RENDIU

ENCAMPMENT.
a onr

3i3

jumping
places
on

and

half splashing,
of portions

dozen

nibbles in

as

manj

those

which anatomy
us

happened

to be under
we

water, would
a

remind

of their presence, and

or

would

either make The

dash for the bank

two

recommence

jumping.
to

of spectacle
a

white

men same

endeavouring
time doubtless have
own

bathe in water
a

foot

and at the deep,

ing performhad race, also

of Indian species

war-dance, would
of spectators
our

been
any
came

to extremely diverting

been present the and but Bendili ;

down
to

who Burkeneji,
us

bathe, merely eyed

observance

in

astonishment,
a

our probablyconsidering

be to efforts terpsichorean

part

of

some

ceremonial

to ourselves; or peculiar

they might have put it down to sunstroke. The Bendili and bathe with frequency and regularity, Burkeneji seemingto
derive very from great enjoyment

the

practice.This is another
them distinguishes the
men

marked

characteristic which had met with

"

from

the other tribes we

for instanca

and A'kikuyu would

Masai,
to

Parties of the yoimg

run

down go

the river and shallow water of

and about, splashing

an

in shouting

the

for

hour

or

two, with every manifestation

pleasure.
When
we

returned

to

camp

we

found

several of the
was an

Bendili elders old

most
man

"1 Hakim, visiting

chief of whom

named

Lubo, who
as

at present the is, probably,

influential

well
were

as

the most
also
two

wealthy man

among

the Bendili. Lemoro Lubo. and

There

other chiefs named

who Lokomogo,

held

second positions

only to

In his account

of C!ount Teleki's
a

Lieutenant expedition. which Bendili,

as

Van he

Hohnel

gives
correct.

short

of description the
as

compiledfrom

hearsay, which,
Van Hohnel

far
a

it goes, is
exact

remarkably

is

very

and

214

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

his trustworthy observer; accurate.

maps,
me

for
a

fully wonderinstance, being

map

I carried with

issued in 1898 which Office,

by
tained con-

the

Department of Intelligence
several inaccuracies and

the War

was

and therefore unreliable,

useless. consequently possess

one

I did not at that time Unfortunately,

of Yon
a

Hohnel's

maps,

or

we

should have

been

saved many

weary

tramp.
found
two

In 1893

Mr.

Chanler

the
or

BendiH

encamped
He

at

Eome, and stayedwith them

to

three

days.

appears

have

found of
an

them

overbearingand

intolerant of

the

presence He
made

and strangers,

inclined to be

hostile. actively
as

of their liberal estimate numbers, extremely

he says that

theycannot

amount

to less than

two

hundred
were

thousand,and that he httd heard that if the Bendili

camped
down go moreover,

in

one

it would line, long

one

take six hours' march He

a

to

the line from that

a

end to the other.

was

considered,

largeforce

if necessary
we

prolonged
that
our

visit was

to be made

to the Bendili ; but

our

found

small party was

for sufficient quite suffered

purpose.

Since his

visit the tribe had

may

which from small-pox, severely

have

curbed

their exuberant
a

somewhat, as spirits

we

found

them, apart from

amiable

few

hereafter littlepeculiarities treated

an described,

and

if people gentle
once

justlj;

but very suspicious,

was

perfectly friendly

their confidence

gained.
We
did most in nothing the way of the time in

of trade that

but morning,

spent

our appetites neglected satisfying

ourselves upon boiled mutton, washed down by by regaling tion draughtsof camel's milk. Afterwards we held a consultato decide
on

the best way

of

of disposing

our

goods.
out

To

our

we great disappointment as question, we

learnt that
a

ivorywas

of the

were

informed

Swahili

caravan.

3i6

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

commences immediately

its

litde its eyeningmeal, wagging The

woman

tailwith the utmost

enjoyment.

then goes to

the other side of the mother, and draws vessels as much The
of the milk
a as can

off into her milk-

be

spared.
six makono
the market
was

priceof
one

good
and
a

"soben" half

(ewe) was

of

or about cloth,

yards; but
a

not very

as there brisk,

was

such

amount great

of

haggling

could be considered throughbefore the bargain A old would round man an satisfactorily completed. bring
ram

to be gone

and demand
a required a

pieceof doth.
''

When

intimated gently and disgustedly

that I

soben,"he would
he would

scowl be back

retire. In

few minutes

goat,and demand by the lund leg9l female

once a

again, dragging the piece of doth

more.

An
a

animated discussion on the differencebetween would goat follow ; my

customer prospective
a

sheep and

for t hat all maintaining

practical purposes
while identical^ well

female

goat
that

and

female
was

sheep
case

were

I contended
a

if that under

the

he

might as

bringme
make
no

as sheep,

those circumstances

it would

difference to

him, and I myself had

for

doubtless unreasonable, preference a,

a

sheep. Finally
be
on.

very

sick

and
same

ewe weedy-looking

would

a nd brought, I would
my

againthe
not

discussion would
a

go

merrily beyond

give the fall price for

would

bad

and specimen,
a

customer

it that persist was,

was
"

doubt,the very best sheep that

"

ever

bred

"

^in

the flower of his flock. fact, would he sheep)

wave

Soben

kitock

(a very large
a

observe

with emphatically, I would

means a
'^

semidrcular

of his

arm

round the horizon.

it opinion was

point out that

soben kitock
it
was
"

in my

humble

by no

by shaking my
''mate

head

and observing that gravely,

soben

kitock."

Finallyhe would
then hand
over

bringa slightly
the full

better animal,and

I would

price,

IN

THE

RENDIU

ENCAMPMENT.

217

with together penny. about

a

pinch of
In

tobacco

or

few beads

as

luck-

I retained to camp

the next
this
manner

having bought morning,

we

dozen

sheep.
It
was

spent

some

days

buying sheep.
monotony
the

the I varied but w ork, very tiring

a by building largehut, heavilythatched with

leaves fan-shaped

of the Doum
as a

palm.

It

was

open

at

both market

ends, and
house.
was a

served

council chamber capital

and

There
and

demand great

for iron wire,and

El Hakim the

I discussed the

of my journeying advisability up

Waso

Nyiroto
where

two spot

days' march
had
some

beyond
twenty

the

"

Green of iron
worth

Camp,"

El

Hakim

loads
not

wire buried.

We

decided that it was eventually

whUe, and the

Some Bobli with
came

matter

dropped.
our

days after
into
our

arrival among camp, bowed

the Sendili, Ismail

to

almost

the

ground

grief.His
mentioned had met
us a

tale was

in truly pitiful

its awful
men

brevity.
whom

I have
we

the party of

eighty of his
the

five

days

up

the Waso
to

and Nyiro, Bendili

It

who

had

lent

guide to bringus

appeared
on

that after theyleft us

they lost their way

were

somewhere
or

the

northern borders of Embe, and

water.

three
some

four

out days withwhich

to

found Eventually they

at pools,

laid down and drank, exhausted, then, they completely

sleep. While
them from
the

the Wa'embe, who they slept,

had observed

hills, and, takingthem by surprise, descended,

them who and
cut literally

pouncedupon
sixteen men,
in sixty-four

them

to

pieces. Only
We

the had rifles, rest, numbering escaped ;

were pletely com-

massacred. aU, being ruthlessly

news

horrified at the

and ;

as

he seemed for Ismail,

prostrated.
As
a

residt of the massacre,

he

had

not

enough nearly

2i8

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

men

his t o remaining carry

to

and he loads,

was

therefore compelled
now

alter his considerably from the

plans. He

intended
up bis

to

buy
We

camels

Rendili,and

thus make

transport department.
were

the about really grieved

we

men, to

but

felt no

pity
first as!
to

for

Ismail,because,as

took Embe

care

pointto
us

him, if

he had
reverse,

only
we

gone

back

to
so

with

after

our

should

have

Wa'embe the punished

a was

have As

of such the possibility precluded

occurrence

teirible massacre. the very woarst

us,
as

it was, the unfortunate

thing that could

a

have

happened
a

for all of

such

signal
a

success

would without would

doubt

set all North

Kenia
on our

in

fermentywhich
in
an

probably culminate
by
all the tribes

return

attack organized The

as

dwellingin
too

the district

surmise

proved to
was on

be

only
to

well
most

founded,and,

will be
on our

seen, it

only by the

measures vigorous

part

the return

ITthara

that the

dangerwas
it
was no

averted.
use

As
over our

the at ourselves moment worrying

once
more

what

we migkt happenin the future, our

turned

attention to

immediate

concerns.

El Hakim

thought
the river,
me

it

down that there might be elephants possible

and I go

agreedthat it would
on

be

better

for speculation

to

down-stream
to

the chance

of

meeting them, leaving

a

El Hakim

buy

the rest of the

to than sheep, occupy

in journeying fortnight up
of iron

the river after the been

loads twenty

wire, which
in the

have possibly might

mean

dug
see us a

up

by

Wandorobbo On the

time.
came

Bobli Ismail day following him

a

to

again,
little,
me

with bringing

of present

little tea, and

was

The salt. little, very

to write
a

objectof his visit

to his

to

get

letterfor him

in Nairobi partner

I insert

IN

THE

RENDIU

ENCAMPMENT.

219

it

as

I received it from

his
even

lips,
as

an

the in lesson object

caravans

enconntered difficulties

by

native

in the search

for

ivory.

"

Waso

1900. August 26th, Nyiro,

"To

Elmi

Fahier, Naibobi.
"

Greeting.
said when head-man, took
us we

"

the Mokojori,
the

started,
After
we

that he knew left took

Our if he

road,and

to

Maranga.
know

Maranga
ns

he said that he did not

the road,and the

name.

to
was

some

place(ofwhich)
limeru
was,

we

do not know

food

We finished (meanwhile). where and

he

asked the head-man

answered

knew

that

he

did not
"

We

the mountain and followed packed up the road

"

(Kenia)
we

^not

knowing
Noor

till reached reached beaten

Limeru, where
us.

found had
came

Adam, who

had
was

there before

He He

been

into Embe, and

us

by
we

the Wa'embe. We

back and asked Jamah

was

to go into Embe

with them. did not

went,
much

and

killed.

In Limeru 'Never said,

get

food,but the head-man

and I will take you
sixteen When took
us

mind, I know

the road,
or

to the

Wandorobbo, and buy

all the

in fifteen

to be able will days you

we

ivory you

want.'

left Limeru

to find the

Wandorobbo, the head-man

foimd
waited
true.

days out eight

On the

of

our

road to the north of the Waso

we
some

Nyiro.
who and

eighthday
no

Wandorobbo,
looked

said

they had
what where back
on our we

ivory.

We

and

about,
the
;

found

they said
the
south way

was

We

then asked

head-man
so we came cows

ivorywas, and
for food.

he said he did not know

to the Waso

kill to Njriro, having When

we

three Waso

reached Then

the
we

Nyiro

found where

the
was

Eendili

camped.
the

asked the head-man

the food and

and ivory,'

320

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

he

'You said,

are

like the

Wasunga.
When
more. me or

You

want

to

buy

then and things cheaply go away.

come

Swahili
.
. .

caravans

here, they stop

there I is food.

year

But
men

I and gave

know the
him of

where

If you

give

the

donkeys

can

get food in twelve

seven

days/
six and

We
a

eighty
trade

men

and

with donkeys,
away
to

half loads

and they went goods,

get food. They followed

across

the river for three

days,and then
no

went

wards. southcountry

There
one

was

and water,

after

goiog one

day

and

night without water, the head-man

to wait where

halted them, and

a

told them
he went
a

they were
if there
was

for

littletime while
in
a

little to way of. He

see

any water

certain back.

knew he place The and

went
on

and away,

did not

come

other
on

men

then went

for three

days without water,

to

the afternoon of the fourth

water.

after the river leaving day

found they

They drank,and then laid down

and
ten

sleep.
killed

While

Wa'embe the they slept

attacked them, and

all of nearly

them, only six Somalis

The the

Wa'kamba
seven

coming
were

back.

donkeys and trade goodsand

Wa'embe. Now
all the
was

guns
are

taken

by
one

Somalis killed
"

in together
are

who safari-" Jamah, except

and

with the Eendili

Salaam. f or trading ivory.

"(Signed)Ismail Robij,
"

Faragh."

^"^
V-

"

V
M

h
i.
5."
1. Briudlcd "3, Gnu. 1. 2. Wutcrbuck.

Oryx

Beisa.

Congoni.

.'". RhiiioccroB skull.

FiIdLIC

Lu. i^AK*:

AV-TCK

llnox

ANr"

222

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

inhabit the taken the

of Mount portions higher

where Nyiro,

have they

from the fierce attacks refuge

of the Turkana.

With

of Marsabit,a single exception

crater lake situated about

miles sixty with pure

north of the Waso

sweet

Nyiro
no one

which

is

always filled
water
numerous

water, there is
were Elephants we

permanent
time very

in

Samburuland.
at

at

but Marsabit,

leamt

from

the Bendili that years. whence The

they had
south

disappeared during the last few of the Eendili, from headquarters

to the Waso

lake is the

they move

Nyiro only when

or

the pasturage,throughthe insuffident for the

of rain scarcity

other cause, becomes

needs of their vast flocks and herds. At the time of the

our

visit there had been

no

rain

during Nyiro
The

previousthree

and in years, consequence

on

the pasturage the Waso

had almost it was We young

very

disappeared.Even entirely
scanty.
the

found
men

Burkeneji
real

very

sullen
to

people.

especially, very knowing

in
our

inclined

be

pugnacious,
haughtily majority
our

and,

not

were strength, us.

contemptuous
were

their
unaware

with dealings of the

men

The of

apparently
or

power

rifles,

though one
game.

two

of the old

had

seen

shots firedat
some

The

and Burkeneji

the Eendili

had, together

time before, foughtwith the

were

Ogaden Somalis, many

of whom

armed

with old

inferior muzzle-loading using very guns, Bendili declared that

powder and they were

The

bullets. The spherical

able to stop or turn shows

the bullets with their shields. the serio-comic side of their

incident following
own

belief in their
A

native weapons.
were

of party

Burkenejiwarriors
an one

in

our

camp

one

day They
as

when

I returned from and rifle,

unsuccessful search for game.

of the

noticed my

party put

out his hand

if

THE

RENDILI

AND

BURKENEJI.
it to him, and
on

223

he wished his Mends

to examine

it.

I handed

he and

pawed
was

it all over,

commenting
me

its

weight;
temptuous con-

it finally

handed

back

to

with

a nd superior

smile,while they balanced and fondled their light

with spears ofifenalYe. The
of
an

air of

that superiority

was

too ludicrous to be

Burkeneji

are

the Masai like very

or

the Wakwafi
a

Nyemps
same

in appearance,
manner,

in their hair wearing and clothing

in pigtail
are

the
very

while their

ornaments

similar.

Owing

to probably

long residence with the

Bendili, however, theyare

ornaments

and dress the adopting gradually

of the

of them a latter, largemajority

having

alreadytaken
to be

to cloth for

everydaywear.

They appeared
The

of fond very

unlike coloured "laissos," quite gaudily

but white. nothing

the Bendili, who

will wear
most

Burkeneji

speak Masai, but

the Bendili

of them

understand

the

of language

They own
and also looted from nickname Their
"

numbers large of

of

and cattle good grey

donkeys,
for the

flocks large

the latter mainly sheep and goats,

This
accounts littlefailing

the Bendili dthombon

"

(robbers) giventhem

by

the latter.

donkeys were

beautiful animals,in

condition, splendid
was

It of full and sleek, coated, being fight. glossy for

risky

strangers to approachthem

while

they

were one

grazing.
or

They seemed
occasions examine would
on

inclined to take the offensive on which

I endeavoured
to

the
near

two to

yet
one

enough
owner.

them ; and to have had to shoot

in self-defence

probablyhave

led to serious trouble with its

a

Besides which, such

much many

course

seemed
were more

to

me

to

savour

too

of the ridiculous.
were
a wearing even

They

than half wild,and

o therwise diabolical twitch, particularly would have had

some

I suppose

their ovniers

difi"culty

224

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

in

them. handling

This
a

cruel instrument foot in

consisted of

piece of flexible wood

of cartilage

thrust through the length

drawn being

the nostrils, the ends

w ith together
a

cord,so that the whole

the through The
nose.

contrivance resembled

bow

passed

Burkenejiwere
to

very

to unwilling

trade; in fieu^
us.

they refused
and
a

have

anything to

do

with

On of

one ortr

occasion this bad

men

led feeling

to friction between
one

some

the young

warriors of
or

of their
men

We villages.

had sent

small party of five

a

six

to this

particular
for the the first

with village purpose

of

supply of doth, wire, and

men were

beads from

Our sheep. buying after

a

and badlyreceived,
to

while the warriors commenced

some

hustle them. spear

They
was

for with it put up

time, but

a presently as

without fatal result, thrown, happily it was launched

a

the ITkamba

at whom

received it

on

the

butt of his wood. from

Our

where Snider,
men,

it made

deep cut

in the hard

with

commendable

prudence, refrained
to camp

and returned usingtheir rifles,

amid the

jeers

of their assailants.

On

their return

El Hakim

decided that it was

absolutely

that the matter necessary

should be
on

dealt with, stringently the

and to that end issued orders that

a

morning following
in readiness to of

of party

our us

men

were

to hold

themselves

accompany
"

to the

for the purpose village

demandinga

shaurie." These
at sunrise
we

as

however, provedsuperfluous preparations, of elders waited upon by a deputation were

who question,
our

from

the

in village

had

come
we

to

to try square

matters.

As

of sign

them waiting kept displeasure,

to
a

for

some

time,and after the suspense had reduced them

frame of mind, we

humble sufEiciently

condescended to appear

and listen to their explanation.

THE

RENDIU

AND

BURKENEJI.
a

225

They prefacedtheir apologyby

to

ment long ramblingstatewere

the effect that

"

"

the

Bnrkeneji
to be

the friends of

the
*'

white man." bad iD"Ty

not

It

was

good

said they, friends,"

so on.

and

to be

and friends,"

After

they
put

Iiad in
a

qniteexhausted their limited powers few pointedquestions.

"'Do friends throw spears ?
"

of rhetoric, we

we

asked. of that surprise and

we

"Oh, that!*' said they, in

should have noticed such
a

tones

trivial occurrence, of

they

forthwith

plungedinto

a masse
men

and explanations apologies be young

men.
an

to the effectthat young

would

It was,

of course,

that such extremely regrettable

mar a our

unpleasant
of

incident should have occurred to but

relations friendly
the he had

they

trusted

we

would

take
man,

lenient view
more so a
as

conduct

of the foolish young driven away from

the

been already for

nid

the

as village

punishment
a

his
"

offence.
we

"And,'' they added, with

them give
a

charming
no more

vet^, would
El Hakim

present and say

about it?" declined to take such done

so
a

lenient view

of the
a

case.

To

have
of

would

have

been

construed into led to

more

confession serious young

or,

weakness, and

probablyhave
to him

He complications.

therefore demanded for be

that the

man

should be delivered up
ten

punishment, paid by
had his

that,a fine of failing

sheep should

fiather.

They
hard

answered

the white that solemnly

man, not to
now

men

very

the young hearts; furthermore, could village,

having already
be found,and

been driven out of the

they
*'

were

in consequence

quiteunable
''

givehim up.
fine." the pay
man

Then," said El Hakim,

his papa must

young

They

wicked the that protested

had

no

papa^

226

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND. he that in fsict, ;

was an

or,

relaidves whatsoever indeed, any

outcast

whom,

from charitable motives,theyhad

allowed
a

to

We stop in their village. and stoiy, fine. After

a

declined to believe such

firm
on

postero pre-

remained

the

the of subject

remonstrance time, finding

the elderly useless, the

that after deputation withdrew, sorrowfully promising fine should be paid. The next day six sheepwere driven into our camp, the old could We

and

gentlemanin

chargestated that
we soon

they

were

all he settled.

and afibrd,

would

consider the matter

were

however, so inexorable,
into camp brought

afterwards the balance

over.

of the fine was

and handed
can

It
town

was

the old,old

which stoiy, The

some

be

in paralleled any
a

in the civilized world. for

of story

young

man or

sowinghis wild oats,who,

other, comes

breach of the peace

ensues

within the grasp of the law, when

the

redeem anxious to and the fine court, police paid by papa, his

offspring. erring
We
were

truly sorry

for the

good old Burkeneji man, gentlethe which keep peace

our

who
son

the to fine in order paid

his
not

had

so our

but endangered recklessly ;

sense

sympathydid
more

prevent

of

justice ^inthis case

"

than

usually
"

of acute,as the safety did it prevent us from The Bendili

we a as

our

own

persons

was

threatened

nor

full t he penalty. exacting

found to be of very different behaviour,

from character bad very

though they have

He
and

Mr. Chanler.

describes them

treacherous, quarrelsome, overbearing,

He strangers.
two
or

haughtily contemptuous towards

at Rome

met

them

in 1893, and

them with stayed

three

days.

Since his

I have have as been, h owever, visit, they a nd small-pox, by

decimated alreadyremarked, terribly that possibly has toned them down

somewhat

THE

RENDIU

AND

BURKENEJL
sUin
an

227

They

are

tall and

well

with built,

and

graceful
of

dear skins. figuresand light, cleanliness and wholesomeness in the other natives whom
we

They have
which had
was

appearance

wantmg altogether
Their
to those

met. previously

Semitic distinctly of the

and

features bear littleresemblance with his squat nose,

were

typical negro, good

jaws, prognathous
of the tribe

everted

lips.There

many

members

with
and

clean-cut features, jaws and well-shaped

chins,

noses. pronounced aquiline

They somewhat

resembled

high-bredArabs
Arab could hair,
race.

in

clothed if in and, general appearance,

close-cut jetblack with their fine, dress,they, straight,

not be

from d istinguished easily

that aristocratic

At of

one

time

they wore
but at

woven coarsely rough,

garment

sheep'swool,
artida

the time

saw

them

they had

of exclusion the made hometo cloth the taken to trade entirely

They

then

wore

mantles large

of this cotton

made cloth,

two three-yard of lengths by sewing together

The of this doth,thus forming a large piece. edges square

are

then

unravelled with them

to

form

which tassels, white beads. of

are

further

ornamented round draped

"

small red somewhat

and

This
a

they

in the
were

manner

Mexican

serape." They and their dothes

Unlike the
"

alwaysscrupulously
never

dean.

they will Burkeneji

Coloured
one

wear

anything
con-

but white doth.

to temptuoudy
us

doths," they remarked

'*

on

occasion,

were

onlyfitfor women
"

and Masai''

the They prefer the

called drill, English

commoner
"

Marduf

"

by the Swahilis, to

a nd lighter

Menkani

"

(Americansheeting).

They

wear

good many
put
on

beads

as

ornaments, which
armlets of

are

worked carefully and not design,

into necklaces

and

artistic
of the

as haphazard,

is the custom

228

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

of the Waso those south of a nd tribes, surrounding

Nyiro.
tiie

The

beads

are

nsuallj strung
as

on

hair "om With and

the tail of this

is which giraffe,

stiff as thin wire.

arms

theymake
and the

broad collarsand bands for the

the beads ankles,

as

in such arranged geometrical designs, being

of different triangles,

squares

colours,red
for

and

white

being

favourites. The

demand

sminge (iron wire)was

it
a

ordinary, extra-

wire)ran though serutia (brass

dose

second.

Copperwire, strangeto They are

in fashion

would look at. not they say,

manner,

circumcized in the Mohammedan mutilated in

a

and,

addition, they are

the

most

extraordinary deep
hole. witli the of

by havingtheir navels
Marie, who

cut out, leaving a

manner

They are
*'

in tribe mutilated this only

of exception the

inhabit the district north

are

Basso Ebor

"

and who (Lake Stephanie),

an probably

of"hoot of the Bendili The Bendili

women are

and good graceful singularly and soft

with arch,gentle manners looking,

expressive eyes.
Their I
saw

They

wear

good many

laces neckbead ornaments, principally beadwork. One

a or

and

armlets

of coloured

hair is
wore on

allowed to grow
cut very

in short curls.

two

it

with the exception of close,

of hair ridge

the

of the from the centre head, extending top backwards

was over

of the forehead

the

crown

to the nape

of the

neck, which
women

left uncut.

Whether

they

were
or

Turkana

who

had

intermarried with the Bendili

not, I

am

unable to
to

it say,

being the custom

manner

of the Turkana
;

women

dress

their hair in that fashion

though,

on

the other

hand, the

might

have

been

from merelycopied

them

by the

Bendili women.
The Bendili
of much
women

also wear

doth.

Their garments

were

less generous

their lords those of than proportions

230

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND. two

Both Lemoro
"

and

Lokomogo"

of the

chiefiB principal
two
or

asked

us

on

seyeral occasions to sell them acted

as as

three
we

of the

who boys

servants
to
our

to

our

but Swahilis,
too

declined to do so,
slave We dealing.

it was, gave
some

minds,

much

like

of the

to permissioa boys

stop with the Bendili if

of them tried

but felt inclined, so they

only two

it;

and

they

came

back

few

days later,
some

life the was saying

too
we

quietfor theuL good

were came
reason

Ismail

Eobli,

had
we

to

sold believe, the

means

boys

to

Lemoro,

and

afterwards
into camp

of

one rescuing

littlechap,who

saying that
to

want did he not Ismail had sold him to that chief, though

stop with the BendilL

We
our

h im protected
camp

duringa
When

what some-

stormy
he had

scene

in

with old Lemoro, who for the

said

given Ismail two

camels

taxed Ismail,he,of course, denied deserted to the

a

we boy. the had that boy it, saying

and that the Bendili, Lemoro.

two

camels

were

only

present from

However,

we

kept the boy,who

return
to

to belonged
as a

and had left there with Ismail's safari ITthara,

to
one

servant

and of his porters, ITDominuki with

on an

our

Ikrthara sent and he affair,

him
was

to

account

of the After

homa his r estored to ultimately

us

this incident Ismail tried to do frictionbetween causing

what mischief he could the Bendili, but

us

by

ourselves and

was

unsuccessfrd, thoughhe happily

anxious moments. The Bendili have Mr.
a man
no

nevertheless caused

some

frtras definite religion so mentions

a woman
a a

I could

ascertain. them about

Chanler and

story

current

among
in

who

settled somewhere

the north of Samburuland whom the Bendili

are

time and very long ago,

to

from the

descended; very similar

Biblical storyof Adam

and Eve.

show traces of contact They

THE

RENDJU

AND

BURKENEJL
of the word
^'

231

^th

Mohammedans
of

by their use

Allah"

as

an

exclamation its

astonishment,though seeming not

to know

meaning. They
have

apparently
no

the for truth for its own regard

to be
a

them t o sake, lying appearing

amusement. It is
on

most

desirable form of

this account
or

rather difficult to obtain

of

information
answer

about

themselves

their country, as

in

to

questions theywill
them

say

only what theythink will

it is
not
matter

their please
one

whether questioner,
out

rightor

not.

When

finds

they

do

betray the slightes

rather in the

embarrassment, but regard the

of
a

light

goodjoke.
They will tellthe
most

lies unblushing

on

all and eyeiy

subject under
circumstances

and if,as discussion, their disproved

an a

sometimes
to

happened,
as

words

their very faces,

of
one

they
who

would says,
"

smile

amiable

self-satisfied smile

See what

clever fellow I am.** of inquired from the

our

On

one

occasion I
two

peopleof
camp if

certain

some village

hours* march I
was

theywished
sell their

to

sell any

sheep.
came

informed

that the inhabitants of

the

in question were village down be

to

to simply yearning

sheep. I
many
"

would they

and inquired how plainfigures, sell. to likely many

as

Veiy many, quiteas

a

said my informant, that," nxmibered

some

indicating
hundreds.

of flock passing

sheep that
of

Knowing

the vast numbers

sheep possessed by

the

of that people

I it not particular village,thought

unlikely
However,

that I should be able to when I went

to

buy

at least a hundred.

the

a joyfully good anticipating village,

market, I found that they did

not

wish to sell any wished

to.

sheep
I
was

whatever, and,

moreover,

never

had

232

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

eventually compelledto
seemed
with
me.
more

retnm
or

^not having disappointed

"
"

than two

three

and had
so

very

much

annoyed
d id village

the He

who elderly gentleman

knew

misled deliberately

at the time that the

of the people

not wish to sell any

me me by telling

but being unwilling to disappoint sheep,

laudable mistaken he with the but lied, so,

idea of

sparing my feelings.
richest natives in Afirica, calculated of them
own

the They are probably

of head per

Some population.

vast numbers

of

has nearly and goats, and since the small-pox camels,sheep,

exterminated
not
uncommon

this

once

and powerful
a

numerous

tribe,it is
ten

to find
more

of eightor village

families,

numbering not
flocks of
of
over

than

thirty persons

all told,owning

and large numbers 20,000 sheep and goats,

camels.

Old

Lubo, the doyen of the Bendili chiefs,

owned personally

upwards

of

16,000 camels, besides

Bendili live almost

over

30,000 sheep and goats. The

on

entirely

the vast

of quantities milk

theyobtain
hunt
as a

from their flocks

with sheep
times some-

for and herds,

theymilk
men

and their camels,goats, not

equalimpartiality. They do
the young
to unwilling

but rule,
are

small spear

They antelope.

very

slaughter any

of their animals

for food.
once women a or

They
twice of the

must
seen

do them

so

I have as however, occasionally,

meat. eating

Furthermore,the old

tribe used
of mutton
seem

to bringa grilled bone, or occasionally

bladder would
a

fat into camp, for sale to

our a

men.

Meat
to which

to be

quite
a

luxury to

them, as
was

bone

few
an

of meat scraps

were

adhering
an

offered for sale at of

exorbitant favour. We

with price,

air

as

a special conferring

ourselves lived almost

the

milk duringour on entirely

six weeks' stay among

with the exception of the Bendili,

THE

RENDILI

AND

BURKENEJI.

233

twelve
the

by days occupied
for Lorian.

our

journey
Hakim,

down

the river in
I drank

search

El

George,and
a

nearlytwo
from
a

gallons per day

point
diet
on

each.

It formed
a

and, pleasant

dietetic

of

view,
we

useful

change from the

the time
return
to

meat exclusively

which

from subsisted,

of

our

arrival at the

''Green
over

Gamp''
months.
extent

tiU The

our

M'thara,a periodof
was

two
some

camel's milk

which salt, very

to

compensated for the

El

absence informed
extent

of that mineral
me

in the

form. ordinary

Hakim
a or

that

little to the east of Maisabit

a

large
throe
cross

of the country is under It

of layer

two salt,

inches in thickness.
a it,which represents

one required

day'sjourneyto
of the

vast

of quantity pure

and it was salt, Bendili

from principally

this that

the

animals

obtained such salt as The milk

we

theyrequired.
our

f or required

own

use

we

bought with
the addition
so chest,

the Venetian beads. and uslogit,

of
a

We, of course, boiled every dropbefore

rendered it still more

by palatable

tabloid or two
as

of saccharin from

the medicine

long

they lasted.
since the

The

milk

often curdled in

boiling,
we

owing

to the vessels it had been

in brought not

been having
were

cleaned

the milking

night before,and
a

to eat compelled out

an

the solid curds with

men

spoon.

We

served

allowance of beads to the

every

day,with which

and meat. milk,fat, occasionally bought they El Hakim heard that many the and before, sheep years

goats
were

of the

with the exception of Lubo's, which Bendili,

in another camped

place at the time,had been swept

such
owner

away

by

In pestilence.

cases

the custom

of the

tribe appears to be that the

must

of the

flocks surviving

commence givethe others sufficientanimals to enable them to rehas but them he take the to back. breeding right ;

234

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

with together

theh: progeny,

that his provided

own

needs
owner

it. Old Lnbo, therefore, was require of all the vast numbered between
even

the practically

flocks of the hundreds and of

which Bendili, thousands.

was

could The

only

be

by

confidence

the animab

their owners

veiy

noteworthy,
for freely
are

the

themselves sheepallowing

to be handled

and for purposes of examination. milking,

They

of the
as

fat-tailed some variety,

of the tails

weighingas

mudi

thirty pounds.
way
nature

This fat tail is another

objectlesson of the
store

her creatures provides

times in sheep of nourishment
as

all agalost

emergenciea.
a

The

Bendili
reserve

of

and develop plenty

large

in the fat of their

ponderous

so that when, tails,

often

becomes t heir pasturage happens,

or

exhausted

want through

of rain

other causes,

theyhave
a

store to draw

needs for sufficient for their upon,

store

able consider-

period.Another
case

of fat is also
a

formed, in the

of the Bendili and throat,

a

in sheep,
on

pouch large

or

dewlapunder
the feitis

the

abo

the

where breast-bone,

often
As

coupleof inches in thickness.

an

instance of the

and ignorance

denseness
own

of the

his outside as Swahili, regards anything average I will mention sphere,

one
a a

ticular par-

incident which occurred little and three

to
or

day.

El Hakim

sent Jumbi

four

men a

with Bendili

supply of

cloth and
was

beads

buy sheep at

He village.

instructed to He

buy "soben," *.".

ewes,
or

in
so

good condition.
of the
to

returned next

day with

dozen been and

scarecrows raggedest

that the Bendili had

able asked

rake
he

out.

El
not

Hakim

reprimandedhim,

why
Jumbi

had
no

obtained better animals,as

those he had

had brought

fat tailsat that it much

skin. but merely all, shrivelled-up

was

answered

true

that the Bendili

had

broughtsheep with

fatter tails to

him, but he had

THE

RENDIU

AND

BURKENEJI.

235

Ae t he that tails their so them, rejected large thought being would tkeep The
not he able to travel !
own

Bendili

but donkeys,
own

not

so

many

as

the

BurkenejLThey
and which not,
are a

also

which horses,

the

do Bnrkeneji

the who from Borana, theyprobably procure

own

to reported

vast

numbers

of them. tribe

The Borana

are

and powerful very

numerous

in living north-east

Galla-land.They are
the correct

and it was fiercefighters, warrior among

a

formerly quite

thingfor any
as

the Bendili who

yearnedfor distinction to lead

who Borana, The often returned with fight

the raiding party against

the

compliment.
short,broad-bladed
a

Borana

two

spears,

while for defensive purposes made from cloth

"

theycarry hump

small round shield

the skin of the

of the oryx.
a

They

wear

small cloth round the loins and

one larger

thrown possess

over

the shoulders
of

costume. their completing

They

numbers large

and vast and cattle, goats, sheep,

herds of

half-wildhorses.

They

are

sullen, inhospitable people,

t o receive unwilling very

the Bendili like They, strangers.

so

and

Burkeneji,

wear

the thorny acada, sandals,

even

fully plentifor the

distributed thereabouts, being naked feet of savages. The Bendili

too much

ride their horses with saddla

saddle

something
to

likethe native Somali

with

It is made

of wood, covered

fastened is and sheepskin, saddle. The

by
are

girthknotted

rings
the

in the

stirrups

similar to iron

those of the

of two Somali, merely consisting

which into rings,

rider thrusts lus removed. saddle in A

sandals his big toe,

been having
are

previously keep the

a

and breast-plate crupper

use
a

used to

place. They

of iron crude bit, very

ticularly par-

cruel form, attached to which do

tmdressed of strips

leather

duty for reins.

236

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LANLK

The Bendili
I have
ever

are

among

the most

that persistent beggars

his oft-

met

with.

The

with Egyptianbeggar,
to

is hard reiterated ''backshish,'' Bendili could grew down

to be to
our

beat, but the avearage

and
a

give him long odds easily

amusement

beating.
come

It

quitea fashionable
often camp,
some

with them to

hours'

and spend the journey,

day

in

small articles. When for begging

in the

El Hakim,

who find
as

his awoke outside tent, slept

a

he would morning,
as
"

number

of them
a

round squatted
murmur

his bed, and Mate serutia ?

soon

he

his opened eyes

no

of

''

(Is there
**

brass wire
!
"

He ?) greeted himp"
I
no

would

answer

Mate

mate

QSo
But

!) and
of

re^at hurriedly to
no use

the interior of later he would would

the tent. be

it was

moment

who his by questioners, againapproached

softly
before.

"Mate inquire,

serutia?"

his havingapparently forgotten

same

the to emphaticnegative

five minutes inquiry

''

Again
no

El Hakim

would

answer,

Mate

serutia !

"

(There is
his

brass

at him, wire!). So, gazing reproachfully

tormentors

would

leave him

and

come

to me.

The

same

succession of be gone
was as

refusal would that I leave

were
me

and stony beseeching inquiry and when they were vinced conthrough,
as

hard-hearted He

El Hakim, adamant
go
to

they would
but ; El

and try

George.

also was

they

not

Back discouraged.

they would
of every

Hakim,

and repeatthe whole This

performance.
the whole day during
us

hour happenedevery
our

of period
on

sojourn among
To do them
it
was
''

them ; it almost drove the cry justice, Mate serutia ?

which
"

frantic

occasions.

was

sometimes other times

varied ; sometimes
"

and

Mate

tumbao

"

of (tobacco),

they are
with

inordinately
the
rare

because fond,probably

they
come

can

obtain it

only on
the

occasions when

they

in contact

Wa'embe,

238
a

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

smile touching

and

outstretched insinuatingly paw.

we

At

such times did glaring

not mind

failed us^ and language

not
seem

could

only glaie.But
to

to have

any

did intruder effect the ;

it in the

so the services of "Ramathani had leasts as

be
we

and requisitioned,

he led the
once murmur

culprit gentlyaway,
more

would

compose

ourselves

to

sleep to the
Mate serutia of
our
"

of accompaniment the

plaintive
the

of

"

sandwiched

between

voluble

remonstrances

faithfulhenchman. But five minutes the whole later, would performance be

repeated!
The Bendili of bush huts consist of low, flat-topped villages and reeds in arranged
In
a

structed con-

drole

hundred
a a

yards or

so

in diameter.

the centre

they construct
the whole

circular enclosure for their flocks. Outside

strongthorn ''boma"
on

is buUt, with
are

two gateways generally

which sides, opposite

closed at

night.In
Women the

consequence

of the great reduction in their numbers of the

m ost small-pox, by

villages

were as

very

short handed.

and
now

little

children acted

in placeof shepherds

extinct

whose duty it had been before the scourge removed warriors, them. So much
was

this the

case

that in

some

the villages and

even inhabitants,
were

when

reinforced by the

women

children,
to

stilltoo few to be able to drive all their animals

water

daily. They were

so on

therefore reduced to the

one

expedient

of

t heir driving sheepand goatsdown

camels the and day,

the next, and

alternately.
utensils
were were

Their household

few, and simplein

con-

struction" Their milk-vessels and gum.

either of wood, hollowed with watertight further

shaped,
Some

or

of

made plaited string,

of the vessels of
a

were plaited string

raw

strengthened by

of covering

hide stitched with

gut.

THE

RENDILI

AND

BURKENEJI.
a

239

Thejrwere

made

in all sizes, rangingfix)m

tiny measure
or

vessels holding two a pintto large holdingscarcely

three

gallons. They string.They

also construct
a

rude spoon

from

plaited
by

possess

few

doubtless obtained gourds,

use

barter from other tribes. for the purpose of satchels and The

They

the bladders of animals

as

other and for such f at, holding purposes,

bags.
and

for their camels pack-saddles

donkeysare

made

of wickerwork. the purpose

two

and and answer light strong, very consists of admirably. The donkey pack-saddle

They

are

oval elongated hide in These

are a

frames similar
are

of bent wickerwork
manner

laced with
a

of strips

to the

gut in

tennis broad
over

racquet

frames

then connected with two

bands, which
the

fastened to their lower The

juid pass edges

back. donkey's has to be

forage

or

household effects, ever or whaton

is packed carried, the

the
are

being kept donkey,

then tied with oords

from
on

slipping by
their upper

which frames,
to the

edges,one
snug.

thus making the other,

and package complete Their weapons

arrows.

consist of spears,
are

and bows and shields, do not look at all

The

spears

very

and light, usual

dangerous. The
common one
or

blade

is of the

laurel-leaf

shape,

to the
two

Suk, Turkana, and "Kamasia tribes, though

seen. occasionally

of Somali patternare
are

Their shields
and
narrow

also of the of

the Suk t o shape peculiar

are

Turkana.

Made

bufiiBdo-hide, they
a

of

veiy in

with oblongshape,

peculiar

curve

when

seen

They are ornamented with a tuft of feathers at the profile. since of are constructed now ox-hide, They usually top. as,
the the buffalo is very rinderpest, There accordingly.
are use

scarce, and

buffdo

shield

is valued work

also

few of the wickerthem.

shields of the Seshiat in

among

240

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

I
A'kikuyn
ends,
So
at the
saw none

Their bows di"ferin and

in
a

from those of the shape

Wa'kamba,in that theyare turned forward

similar manner
to the conventional
are

bow. Cupid's

far as I conld

theirarrows ascertain,
use as

not at

poisoned*
I least,

do not They

clubs such.

as

weapons; The

that could be used

carried consisted onlyclub they

nut

of the kernel of the doum

of
a

fsustened on

to the end

sticksome eighteen inches in length, a hole being slight bored longitudinally t he the stick inserted. and nut, through The kernel
was

in many
were

cases

ornamented it
was

with small
new

coloured

which beads,

inlaid when

and

the whole then finished off by being soft, comparatively covered with
a

of gum. thin layer

of the powers of the Bendili in warfare That the reports

were manner

not devoid of foundation

was

borne out in
our

by factswhich
visitorsshowed

came

under
scars

striking observation. Many

a

of

our

livid

on

the left forearm and

breast.

revealed the fact that the warriors who Inquiry

wished to be accounted brave in warfare dispensed with their their leftforearm those spearshieldsaltogether, on receiving thrusts theywere
a

unable to avoid. This is, as far as I know, African savages, thoughI

am

characteristic unique among

correction to on open besides

that point. The fact that the

Bendili,

the Borana, have also successfully raided attacking and the

A'kikuyuof north-east Eenia speaks well fortheircourage and enterprise. Most of the elders we met showed great scars on the arms, breasts, and thighs of spear-thrusts relics received in the sanguinary conflictsof their hot-blooded youth. The tribe now shows only the merest traces of its former greatness, mainlyon depending the Burkeneji forprotection from outsideinterference, though by no means to be despised. theyare still
"

the Wa'embe

THE

RENDILI

AND

BURKENEJL
of the

241
on small-pox

The their
once

Bnrkeneji, notingthe

ravages

all-powerful were neighbours,

the scourge
away
to

not slow in

profiting

by

the lesson. When

men were

appeared, theysent their

so

young

separatecamps, and
so

preservedthem.

They
not not

able to do such numbers

without

did as inconvenience, they

as

own

of animals
as a

the

who would Bendili, them

to

send their

youths away,
herds
"

theywanted

look

after their flocks and

cost them

policywhich short-sighted

very

dearly.
to protectthe perfectly willing

Now, the Burkeneji were

but Sendili,
be in return

they considered
felt

that

they ought to
the Bendili
to

allowed the

rightto help themselves they

to
so

from

flocks whenever

and disposed;
to

do them fear of

justicethey fullyacted up
I t reprisals. seemed
me a

this idea, without

state peculiar

very

of affairs. mingled, inter-

The two tribeslived together, that is, their villages were and

the constantly theytravelled together Burkeneji ; yet and though the Bendili did Bendili,
not

raided the
seem

to like

it, theynever
once

openly resented the depredations.

us

Old Lubo

to complained
"

that he had been raided the raid fact,

and
a

duringthe
not

afternoon

as

matter
our

of

took

place
of We He

five minutes' walk and

two
women

from had
no

camp"

few

score

sheep

been

looted from
to

him.

why inquired
"We

he made

attempt

them. recapture

his opened eyes

do not

widely at the noveltyof the idea.

between fight he said. friends,"

the their both Bendili qualities, Notwithstanding fighting and

Burkeneji were
to

anxious the Masai. about very

of them.

seemed asked

live in dread had

seen

We
on our

were

They frequently
and up,

if

we we

any

Masai

march

whether

thoughtthey were
"

coming to
"

the Waso

Nyiro.
^

of Masai Large parties

elmoran

had occasionally (warriors)

R

242

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

attemptedto

laid the

Bendili,but

were

almost

always

reason tmsuccessM, the principal

being the inaccessibili

carries next

of the country and the nomadic On the march in the way which he
of
can

habits of the tribe.

to

the Masai

elmoran

nothing
owners.

find cattle on to provisions, trosting

use

the road,

for food, after the

"

the massacring of the

Thompson
a
"

describes

ceremony

ci departure

Masai war-partythus
For
a

month

they devoted
small with

themselves

to

an

indb-

T his consisted in pensable, though revolting preparation. their

i n retiring

and partiesto the forest, beet This

a

there the and

themselves gorging belief that

they did

under

they

were

of ferocity the most

storing up pronounced type.

supply of musde

This strange process

women

finished and the being

went

fixed the day on,

of tlie kiall

out before

coVs
a

milk.

with grass dippedin the cream of sunrise, Then they danced, and invoked ITgai for after which they threw enterprise, The young
men

favourable issue to the

the grass in the direction of the enemy.

several their hours out at devotions, howling spent

most

in the

ludicrous
*

Aman fashion, street-singer

'

! ITgai-ai Aman

M'baratien !

(We

! Gk)d to pray

We

M'baratien to pray

!).

Previous to this, however,a party had been sent to the chief

'lybon'of the
them successful.
"

Ifasai

"

M'baratien
to

"

to seek

advice
to

as

to

and the time of their start,

medicines procifre

make
and

On

their return

the party mustered

set oflT!

It will be

seen

that under these conditions it was raid successfully

to
cross a

very

dif"cult matter
to reach whom

to

tribe Uke

the

Bendili,

theyhad

uninhabited
to generally

and desolate airive at their and emaciated

country for ten daysor

more,

and

victims' camping-ground starved prospective

.i^

55

"

""

CHAPTER

XIV.

THE

8EAB0H

FOB

LOSIAN.

Exchanging
We
start

presents with the

for Lorian
"

Bendili"

Kl
"

Hakim Zebra
"
"

bitten

by

soorpio
of
men

without

guides

Desolate

character of
"

the country
to

Difficulties ^th We reach

the

rhinoceros of Mr.

^UnwiDingness jonmey

our

proceed"

lunit

Chanler^i

^No

signs

of Lorian.

Thb

dimate the
was

was

still all that

was

could the

be

desired
was so

The

heat

in it

daytime quite
open

terrific,but
No dew

air

dry

that

bearable.

fell at
an

ni^^t, and

sleeping
Our

in the

was,

in consequence, 1200 could feet above

not at

unmixed

pleasure.

campVas during

about ther

sea-level, and
been much
to

the temperature less

90"

day

have
to

than

120"

Fahr., which
I made in

dropped
several

night

fix)m 85" the

a

Fahr.

short

trips into
but

surrounding country
solitary grantei
of
or

search
at

of

freak

meat,

except
was

wallerei flocks

intervals, the
herds of the all the The
was

country

devoid
so

game.

The

and

Bendili game

roamed
a

far afield in search

of pasture that driven

my

within
were

day's
very

march

had

been

away.

guinea-fowl
to
we

wild, and
as

I found
not

20-bore far

unable Also
near

deal

with

them,

it would
to
or

kill

enough.
in

considered the

it unwise Bendili

do

any

shooting

the the

vicinity of
and much

Burkeneji
to

as villages,

women

children, being unaccustomed

firearms,

were

very

firightened by
244

the

explosions,and

THE

SEARCH

FOR

LORIAN.

245
we

it of

have proveda might possibly

conise

cause

of

which friction,

wished to avoid.
to the north-east was

About ten miles away

or al-lugwazambo/'

the of

**

Bfarisia

Zambo

Plateau. sides

It

was

most

its imposing-looking formation, clean

cut
as

being as steep and

a

if

theyhad

been

shaped with
to the base

knife.

The

extended right sandy plain up ^hich

rose

of the

plateau,

500 fully

feet above the level of the

surrounding
its sur"EU)e
an

was country. The plateau

of gneiss rock, composed chiefly

on sprinkled liberally

^th
and

largeblocks
sides.

of lava

It is about

m iles twenty-five

with long,

breadth of miles. five average A few

a

days after our

arrival Lubo

came we

into camp gave him

with
some

In of fifteen present sheep.

return

coils of brass and iron wire and about with which he In and

yards of marduf, thirty

himself very pleased professed

our

around

camp

there it was

were

largenumbers

of

and and scorpions, centipedes

sometimes quiteexciting

when

was centipede

discovered

snuglyensconced
in.

in the

blankets, justas
over turning some

one

was

goingto turn
by

El Hakim, while
up

of pieces

doth, when
a

making

Lubo's
was

present,
pure

was

the hand in stung

It large scorpion.

white in

and consequentiy colour, layunnoticed among His

arm

the folds of the doth. the the of

soon

became

very

painful,

armpit and
pain became

chest
too
a

Before afiected. immediately being

severe,

solution a however, I injected relieved him

morphiawith

which hypodermicsyringe,

The greatiy.

the following morning

a

had almost pain

entirdy

and in subsided, noticeable. In the

we elders, course were

couple of daysno

further illefiectswere

of conversation with

some

of the Bendili
was

that Lorian hear to surprised

only two

146

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

march distant. We days*

were

much very

surprised,
as over

Mr.

Chanler made it at leastforiy-five miles' march

extremely
of the

difficultcountiy, beyond the farthest eastern spnr Zambo

Plateau,which
our

itself camp.

lay

some

fifteen to twenty

miles distant from but

two
we were

We

our incredulity expressed

assured that the We

Eendili could reach it in

days.
nearer an

concluded, therefore, that, making eTery

Lorian exaggeration,
we
a was

allowanoe for characteristicBendili much than

we

had

and thought, when it,

had half decided

statement
were
''

to make

reach to attempt

by

the

assembled

Eendili to the effect that there clinched the there," Lubo

our

of plenty

down elephants and guides,

we as

matter.

We

asked

for

promisedthat

coming, forthbe should they

a

made

for preparations

journey

to

the

Lorian. mjrsterious The next Hakim and

day,

as

no

had put in guides

an

El appearance,

to find out Georgewent over to Lube's village, for the delay. Lubo, excusing the reason said that himself, for guides, but so far he had not got hold ci he was looking

any

one

who

knew
were

the way.

Two

more was

but passed, days

full of
excuses was

still no and

guides

Lubo forthcoming.

but as far as he was promises, allowed to drop. Eventually we without journey which of seemed On
no

concerned the matter determined

to make

the

We guides. would be
a

could
more

follow the river, always

but there journey,

course

tedious

other way

out of the

difficulty.
a

us

made we August 30th,therefore, Jumbi onlya dozen men, and leaving

in

wi" start, taking

and the bulk of the

men

chargeof

our

camp,
were

with instructions to continue

left behind with most of
onr

buyingsheep. other impedimenta, as

We possible.

The tents
we

intended
us

as as travelling lightiy a

took with

merely

blanket

or

two, the

THE

SEARCH

FOR

LORIAN.

247

necessary and tioiiy On

utensils, cnlinaiy my
a

camera,

some

ammunispare

changeof clothing apiece.

we

leaving camp
some

skirted the north bank of the Waso way among

Nyiro for
the

onr miles, devionsly threading

palm

trees.

It

was

excursion,this tramp glorions

the where palms, the

throughthe
Temnants

cool dark

gladesbeneath
which
scene

of the

sunshine bright
gave

filtered throughthe the appearance of

leafycanopy
of
was

overhead
a

the

the interiorof sunshine

vast

cathedral

dimly

illuminated

by

rays

through stained glasswindows.

the occasional of the numbers smooth
of

The

effect the

heightened by
trunks which
to and

glimpsesbetween
of the

palm
over

shiningsurface

river,

coloured kingfishers brilliantly of falling fragments

a

darted

fro like the

shattered

rainbow.

Presently lookingspot
presence showed been
us

we

emerged
a

on

the river-bank
we

at
a

likely
of the bank

for

As crossing.
a

did

so,

sliding,
us

sound, followed by slipping

of crocodiles, and that three
sun or

dull
an

warned splash,

examination

of the

four of the loathsome

at that very

had reptiles

in the basking

The tracks spot. were,

small ones, probablynot however, those of comparatively

more

than six

or

feel eight
same

several river the Across long. of

our

others of about the

were

as yet unaware size,

presence,

basking

on

the sandbanks.

The

noise made

by

the
a

porterssoon
and wriggle
not
we

roused them, and

a

they also

with disappeared, The

stream. beneath the swirling flop,

river

four feet the at scarcely deep, being very

deepestpart,
men

entered the water with splashing

and

waded

the across,

shouting
a

and

while vigour, great the turbid current.

casting many
Once
across,

sidelong glanceat
search for Lorian

our

had

commenced

in

good earnest, and

248

THROUGH
our

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

settiDg
course

faces to the eafltwaid, we

strode forward

on

south bank the to parallel hour later we

saw
a

of the river. and zebra" and I, Gecige

were

An

herd of

aftera

secured four. and careful stalk, long

They

in pnme

and very plump, yet,strange to condition,

to appeared

the countiy say,

nothing produce
coarse

more

occasional than nourishing

as

clumps
a

of

grass,

or

rather straw,
sun.

it

was

burnt
were

by yellow

the fiercerays of the

These four zebras

men

veritable windfiedl, as they not

us

the enabled only

for supply days'
our

who

accompanied
down he
was

to

in lay

few

journey
to Jumbi
was

the

but river,
to

by sendinga
send
men

messenger

back

enabled

for the

remainder,which
for

sufficient to

feed the

remainingin camp
we

some

days.
We

camped

on

the river-bank,which
our

had

some

in difficulty regaining, having to cut

way

with knives and creepers

and

axes

the through

bush interlaced densely

which

the fringed

water's

edge.
was

The weather

was

delightful being
than

though the

heat in the open

one

this camp terrific, and not equator,

more

situated within
one

of degree the

thousand two On

hundred

feet above sea-leveL

we

the starting away

morning following
As

found

that tlie

river curved

to the

northward,roundingthe easterly
we

of the Zambo spur

Plateau.
way

luxuriant the proceeded,

tropical vegetation gave

of in

to scattered acacias and

patches changed

bumt-up elephant grass.

The soil underfoot also

the rocky outcrops and boulders of quarts and character, their I n almost place were gneiss entirely disappearing. stretches of smooth with alternated sand, shining

vast

of brown loose patches which Game made

was

as soft and earth, crumbly as starch, a

travellingmatter
very

of

and toil great

a

difficult

I plentiful. shot

during the grantei

THE

SEARCH

FOR

LORIAN.

249

and morning, water-buck. After march. The

we

when

we

halted for lunch

secured

three

had

eaten

and

rested awhile

we worse

resumed and
our

the

The

of the country grew aspect

worse.

brown
so

crumblingsoil
rotten

gave

way

under
our

feet; it

seemed

that it was
sank

unable
over

to bear
our

and weight, passage

our

at eveiy

step

we

into it

knees, our
choked and

brown a raising

dust impalpable
a

which

eyes,

and in nostrils ears,

manner.
was

most

uncomfortable
even more

disconcerting
It

The mules

suffered

than ourselves.

to impossible

ride

them, as

at every stride theysank up

a

to their hocks in the rotten most

and floundered about in earth, The

and distressing manner. pitiful

so

sand, which
also

seemed

smooth

and firm

on

the surface, was agency

or

combed honeya

underneath

by
cause

some

other.

I had

nastyfall from
was

this

the afternoon's march. during the sand down

the big mule, when riding

suddenly collapsed
on me

under her forefeet and she went

wards her chest,afterto the

rolling
In her

over

on

my

pinning leg,
me

ground.
times,

she struggles
sev^^

kicked

in the side several

inflicting from was pulled

faint. The

bruises. Bamathani under

secured her head,and I and very

her, feeling badlyshaken

and raced
across

mule then broke away

coimtry,
She
was

in in her heels the air kicking

not

freedom. delighted

caughtfor over
the

an

hour, duringwhich I had

sim as

to stumble

alongin

burning
a

best I could, with my

head

like spinning

and top, my concluded

the above temper considerably

a

We boiling-point.
and

weary
on

march

by simdown,

againcamped under the

These

palms

the river-bank.

palms formed

home

for

baboons of large troops

our

and little monkeys,who meagre meal of fried meat

chattered
we

After unceasingly.
moon

retired. The

was

in the

2SO

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.
sun

first quarterand shed

we

after the little light

had set,and

laid back in
an

our

blankets and,
in

the at gazingup

palms, nightcular parti-

spent
birds

hour
our

or

so

cussin disor conversation, perhaps desultory

morrow.

route

for the

As the

sun

set the

a nd appeared,

tuned
sunset

up,

preparatory to
One

their usual

from concert,lasting
went

to sunrise.

bird in

down and regularly up

from D, the scale, starting

over
a

and

mountingby

leapsand

bounds

of couple octaves,

descended again. This

was performance

repeated with night.

we
were on

of the the maddeninginsistency during greaterpart

At

sunrise
on

on

the We

morning
saw

of

September they were

ran

Ist

again
most

the road.

several herds of water-buck veiy in

a

the banks

of the Waso

but Nyiro,

shy

and

difficultto

approach. The
The further became
we

river

direction

almost due north. and

east

followed it to the north Bhinooeros vegetation. and

at one

the
once

scarcer more
we

the

became

unpleasantly numerous,
several who dodged little company.
are

that during time bade have they I know

an

march morning's fair to

our disperse

I suppose

that

their uses, of

thoughthey better for livening nothing up

than march, uninteresting roused fix)m
so a

inconvenient

at times.

the monotony of
a

wise otherhas

crusty old rhino who

justbeen
create

refreshing nap.
El
on one

A lion does not and

half

much

excitement

Hakim

Geoige
ing, morn-

had to bestir themselves

occasion It

the during
in

in order to prevent accident.

I
was

was

this wise. I went

me

marchingahead, and
beauties of nature. Hakim
or

as contemplatiog

the rode

manifold

few

yards behind

in silence El

and
were we
an

also George,

the contemplatuig

beauties of nature"lunch time?

of the approach of they thinking

were some

Anyhow,
men

few

hundred

yards

ahead of the

when

from Ramathani, yell agonized

252

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

After for

we

had breakfasted

we

made
to
our

our

prepaiation simple
we

resumingthe
had

march, but

the mules while

The disappeared. had grazing

dismay in chargeof man

found tliat tbem

they were

and let them wander, carelessly We discovered eventually

we

theywere
tracks

not to be found.
over

their

back leading

the

path

had traversed in die

of the men and we immediately in chase. sent some morning, animals, and They returned in an hour with the refractory
we saw

set off once

more

on

our

journeydown
on

the river. We

immense

herds of game

the

road, giraffe including

now

and water-buck, and buffalo, rhinoceros, grantei,

we again

and

and old elephant passed

lion tracks.

To the south and east the

to the

with only horizon,

of

desert extended away shining few thorny acacias to relieve

sameness.

the

generalappearance
sand
or

Troops of baboons
at

the on squatted

skipped about like children

our

play,
to

their hoarse barks

as a

being interpreted by
camped
under

little puppy

declined he however, which, wisely challenge,

At sundown
we a

accept.
and

clump

of

palms,
myself,

turned

in

tired out. t horoughly early,

our

For

the whole of during in

journeyto Lorian and

back, I slept

paragraphs,
so a

to

speak, waking

at intervals all
no

through

the the

degree by night, have I bird already up-and-down-the-scale-two-octaves

result contributed to in The

small

mentioned.

following day
afterwards
our we

we

were

on

our

An had

hour
so

entered the

sxmrise. at again way desolate r^on it most Trees and

far been

illluck to traverse.
was

appear palms dis-

and their
or eight grass

ten

by coarse diy elephant place takable feet in height.The country bore unmistaken
water not
so

of signs
seasons

havingbeen under
It
was

very many

before.

direction i n by elephant, pitted eveiy

THE

SEARCH

FOR

LORIAN. must

253

and hippopotamus which rhinooeFOS, tracks,

made

have been
a

when

the earth

was

f irom as soft, they averaged very These caused depth.

us

foot to

in inches eighteen

greatinconstumbled in

hidden by the longgrass, we venience,as, being and and

out
our

of them in

most

teeth our unpleasant jarring way,

our

with tempers
some on

In greatfrequency.

endeavours
we our

to find

sort of
our

path

we

it lost the river, leaving as

thought walked nearlyinto intense surprise, we between banks perfectly perpendicular

extreme

for it, and in searching to left,

it. It about

was

flowing
at the

six feet tin

in a nd height, commencement
more

direction at of the

anglesto right

its course

than

march. It was little now morning's and required to be followed very ditch, large
no

there were as carefully,

This position.

trees

on

the banks

to mark

its

immense

dried swamp

is called of

by Mr.

Chanler

the Kirrimar. Plain.

seasons,
or

I am Personally
a

opinion
that
a

that in wet

after

series of wet

seasons,

of the river forms portion it immediately adjoining

of part Lorian

swamp

or

chain of swamps,
reasons

to which

the

name

is the

given. My
next

for this

are supposition given in

chapter.
followed the river very
curve, must
we

We

in the event carefoUy, as,

of

its takinga sudden and in that lost, the

men
were

should have

been

absolutely

case

have perished. Indeed, inevitably

and grumbledopenly. already frightened, very

we

They declared that

had much
numbers of presence

had got to the end of the world,and back before

worse

better turn

befell

us.

The

of rhinoceros had very much

over

frightened
one

them. and
some

We

encountered
a

o f them thirty

on

march

quitehalf
our

dozen times had to of the

warily circumnavigate
was

ungainlymember path.
We

who species

grazing display

in directly

paid

no

attention to this

254

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

of msubordinatdon obstacle to
more our

on

the partof the men, but

pushed on,
us

every

progress
our

to encouiage only serving

still

to persevere in

effort to reach the much-desiied

was plain

goal.
have

The heat

on

this open
120*^ Fahr.

tremendous

it must ;
matter

been

above

We

were

only

of

about 800 feet above sea-level, and

encountered consequently
sun. equatorial a

the full force of the verticalrays of the At

midday we
our

under and, creeping halted,

of broiled meat,

bush

for

ate shelter,

meal frugal

lying at full
a

lengthon
'^ "

the

ground. During the meal brou^t "1

whisper of
to his
an

ungruwe

from Bamathani (pig)

Hakim

feet.

his Seizing
two

outside and shot he stepped rifle,

or

old

boar,who, with

three sows,

was our

about feeding quietly presence. His flesh

oblivious fifty yardsaway, utterly

was

of

not toughand tasteless,

in the least resembling pork.

to
us

Several of the how much

men we

came were

to inquire duringthe halt,

as we

further

that thought they going, and (devils),

had got into the country of the ''Afreets" would be advisable to go

two
or no

it

further. We would
so

assured them
at the end

that
our

three

days

at most

see

us

of

journey. The country looked

I do not wonder minds
of
our

desolate and
on

barren that

its appearance We

worked

the

superstitiou
continued to

men.

laughedat
started
now was

them, but they were

than ten

only
wide.

half reassiired. We

and again,
more

which follow the river,

not
on

yards
some

Large crocodiles swarmed

immense
seen even brutes,

every mud-bank,

of them had and

never

El Hakim

that declaring

he

larger.One
the water
at

which uglyreptile
our

started up

into plunged

must approach,

have been

fullytwenty feet
called him

long

or

more.

El

Hakim

appropriatel scaly

''the father of all crocodiles." This loathsome

snout

with its blunt and massive reptile,

and immense

THE

SEARCH

FOR
''

LORIAN.
"

255
one

body,

reminded

me

of the

Mugger

of the ford,in

of
in

stories. The Kipling's

crocodiles were largest multitudes

dark-brown

colour, but there

were

of smaller ones,
of which

some

brightgreen and
built

others

two yellow, bright

we

I shot

during the afternoon. When

camped
of

that

eveningwe

huge firesbetween
the

oturselvesand the water, in order to

our

preTent

of possibility any

seized party being

the hideous during the night reptiles. by

The
one.

day was following

We advanced

of the previous merelya repetition

same

throughthe

dried-up swamp,
same

with

its innumerable reeds.

an

hidden by the pits,

coarse

and grass

If

the anything,

seemed landscape Bhino

were

to have
a

acquired
in the

added

tingeof

desolation.

drug

but zebra and grantei market, owing to the increased supply, stock advanced the river very

points duringthe day. We followed because it not was our only closely, onlyguide,
which abound in this portion of hippopotamus,

several

but because the the Waso

a

from poolto pool, trodden had,in wandering Nyiro, the crest of the bank perpendicular easier than if
we

roughpathon
our

of the had
across

which river, forced

curves

made
across

much walking the in plain

way

to endeavouring

cut

it necessitated in the river-bed, a though

walk. longer

This

path
as

was

also
on
were

favourite

for wandering sleeping-place

we

and rhinoceros,

several occasbns hidden

walked

almost
A
a

on

to

them,

they

by

the tall grass.

shout
snort

broughtthe generally
and
a

his b rute feet with to sleeping

and would he stamp,

scurry away

over

the

plainthe
El
an

of picture

indignant reproach.
march
a

Duringthe
Hakim and

between slight misunderstanding

very
near

myself
so

came

to

landing
we

us

both in

One p osition. extremely perilous did not wake and easily,

as

rhino

came across

with up the

he

layright

path.

2S6
we

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

had to shift him

we

by

some

means.

fifteen or Standing
not
move

twenty yards away, Hakim stole softly up

but he did shouted,

to within three
or

so

El

four

yards of him,

he broke off dods of earth from the edge of tiie and,stooping, river-bank and threw them at the small
move a boy might chivvy

beast, sleeping jnst as

Even

cat with stones.

that did not

him,

so

I stole

softly up

to El Hakim

with his '577,

my

which I handed to him.

Instead of

it,he seized taking

me

and I,thinking he meant small-bore rifle,

to

try my

luck

with Ms, El Hakim he had that my

to proceeded

cock it ; but while I

was

doing so
rifle. If

let drive at the brute's head with

me

my

warned

of Ms

I should have told him intention,

*303 shot very

high at

short range, but he

fired

before I could do so, and missed its brain hole clean drilling
a

only altogether,
rhino

the through

ear.

Up jumped the
to

and faced

us.

I waited for El Hakim waited for appeared, The

me

to fireagain, while

he,

it afterwards

in put

shot with
a

the heavier weapon. and us,

we were

made meanwhile, rhino,

over slip

rush at

both

to prepared

the bank into the the brute

across

river and

chance the

when crocodiles,

changed
the
our

aside, its mind,and, swerving galloped away

Mutual and ensued, explanations
we

plain.

proceeded on

In cold it would journey. momentarily interrupted print

seem as

if

we

had both

betrayedsome

but the indecision,

reader must Hakim swerved counted The

bear in mind

the fact that "t)m the time El

my
an

fired the shot from and

more

'303 to the time the riiino

observer

galloped away,
than four
or

could

not

have

five seconds. very

much in

river still diminished

of water
must

volume, as

amount large

of

while dry country, surrounding be enormous. to our According

be absorbed by the necessity the loss by evaporation most

calculations we

should

now

THE

SEARCH

FOR

LORIAN.

2$?

liarvQ been almost in

sightof Lorian,having travelled quite

river from
our a

miles down the sixty-five On

came

Eendili camp. bend of the river, we

a poolsituated in reaching

upon

school

of We

in the mud hippopotamus wallowing

at

the water's
away,

edge.
chance

hid ourselves
them for

on

the bank about ten

yards

and watched
a

some

time,as

one

very

rarely
close the Sakim

has

of

such at them, unobserved, seeing

quarter"

one Presently

of them
us,

rose,
as

and, climbing
it
a

bank,walked slowlytowards
sat

grazing

came.

"1
"

down

"

^his favourite with

a a

for position

shot

and the

dropped
sound the

it dead

bullet

through the neck.

the

At

of the

report

from terrific splash

poolannounced
one

alarm of the other members

and with of the school,

accord

theydiVed
to

to the

bottom, whence

at they reappeared

intervals

breathe,accompaniedby much
shouts of

snorting. With
upon

joy
were

our

men

blowing and instantly pounced

the fallen hippopotamus, its meat

as

esteemed greatly being

by

them

food.

We

also

which of need in fat, badly On

the dead animal it open

we

in supplied

abundance. great

cutting
at

found

of rich layers

of inches yellowfat,a couple

between the skin and the body. Great fireswere thick,

once

and for the lit,

a

next

hour

or

two

the spot resembled

the deck of

whaler when
a

the blubber is

beingboiled

down.

The

men

got

of fat for themselves,and, plentiful supply and boiling

we rendering,

after an buckets which

hour's

also obtained two

of rich fat

the to congealed

of butter, consistency

it resembled in colour.
men

At this stagethe
we

wished again

to turn

back, but

as

could not have been very far from be

a

Lorian,we
so we

thoughtit
our

would

pityto giveup

the search ;

announced

intention of

a decision which they received proceeding,

with

of discontent and sign every

even

terror.
8

2S8
At

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

one

the of o'clock in the afternoon, havingdisposed

remains

of the

hippo,

we

once we

more

made

our

way

stream. downmore syca-

Just before sunset

tree which marked

immense the sighted

the limit of Mr. Chanler^s

journey,
with with

and from whence renewed

he

Lorian. sighted

forward Pushing

we vigour, of to a expecting get glimpse eager eyes, fully or goal sought-f

round looked and reached it^ finally

our

longriver,

Not

sign of the swamp

a

could be seen!

The

half scarcely

dozen

in yards

width,meandered

eastwards^
On

and sluggishly between flowing smoothly side in stretched the silent plains, every

its low banks.

some

places perfectly ragged sentinels

and in others covered by patches of dried reeds, while bare,

a

few

solitary thorny acacias

desolation. general

stood like

amid the

Lorian had vanishedl

u'oLlCLr.r.-lAKYI
A";T0" LtNOX
AND

TlLat.N^OUNnATIONS.

CHAPTER

XV.

BBTUBN

FBOM

TEE

LOBIAN

JOUBNEY.

An

intennipted m^t's
farther the
retora
our

rest"

Photography
no

under Lorian
"

difficulties" Sad end of

We
'*

go

down-stream"
"

Still
men

signs of
to
oar

Spot

**

pnppy

Oar
"

refuse for

go

farther"

Preparations
Lorian"

for

the
to

joomey
BttidiH
me

^Reasons

faihire to of

reach north
scare

Betom

camp"

Somalis him
"

think

going
The

to Marsabit"

Ismail camp-

adfiB

to accompany

^I decline"

in Ismail's

Departure

for M*thara.

We

were

bitterly disappointed
a

at

this

unexpected
to

torn

of

affairs, but, after

on

short

consultation, determined down-stream,

In
our

proceed hope
of

the

morrow

still further

in

the

reaching

the

tantalizing swamp.
tree
we

eagerness half-mutinous in had

twos

to reach
men,

the flfycamore and

had

outstripped
into

our

they
after

were

slowly coming
arrival M'kamba
a

camp them

and

threes

long
the

our

Two and small

my

of the

deserted
who

during pened haptained con-

march,
to

an

ruffian

SuUeman,

be

carrying

black kit.

portmanteau
This

which
cut

all

George's

and

he

had

open

and the
were

had
whole

abstracted
of

therefirom stock the of

my

matches,
and
to

and fishing-line,
so

my

needles

thread,
our

that

we

left without

wherewithal the of Jumbi

more

repair
in
men

clothing.
they
to

These

desertions
our

were

serious

that

necessitated the Bendili

or,

sending
so

two

our

remaining might

back the

camp

that

apprehend

deserters,

259

26o

THROUGH

KIKUYU at least

TO

GALLA-LAND.

to that, failing

prevent him
come

beingdeceived by
from trade
"

t o spnrioos purporting message

ns, to the effect

that he Sulieman often away

was
on

to

hand

over

of quantity
we

goods to
a

the

that pretence

them required

trick

by practised

Swahili deserters fix)m a party operating

camp.

firom their main

our

Sending these
men,

men

away

reduced

weak already

party by four
the

whose

loads

had to be distributed among

remainder;a proceeding

which stUl further increased their discontent. That which

eveningwe
a

dined

on

the

hippopotamus tongue,

and dish. It fat was royal proved right wonderftilly it afibrded a tender, and,as it weighedabout seven pounds, We turned in substantial as well as a very pleasant meaL

and early,

as

I wished to
an a

the change

i n plates my
room

camera,

manufactured blanket
over

dark extempore and

by throwing a
I could not, had set,at 2 a.m.,

bush

b eneath it creeping
moon

tillthe it with safety use however,

so

I instructed the my

call to me sentry

at that

and,getting time,

out

of package spare

with them, together placed plates, and me, endeavoured

to

my

collapsible ruby lamp, beside

had
as

sleep.We
and, tree,

arranged

our

beds at the foot of the sycamore in the right their

it turned out,

path

used

by the

and hippopotamus

rhinoceros in

wanderings nightly
a

the banks of the river. along We had for slept

men
was

perhapstwo
followed

when hours,
a

shout of

alarm firom the

by

mules broke from their picket ropes with

a

the two as stampede, and bolted. Waking up El Hakim and

across

I start,

was

to surprised

see

Geoige,
my

clad in the very scantiest

as

attire,

come

flying
I

bed

if

theywere
an

the high jump. practising

rose

round, glanced
blankets and had path,

and

instant later
A

fi*om hurriedly my

joinedthem.

rhinoceros, coming

the along

RETURN

FROM

THE

LORIAN

JOURNEY.
and

261

nished

among

our

men sleeping

charged through,
then rushed
was

them scattering fireand

and right

left.

He

at

the

stamped on speed of
an

it,and when

I awoke

down coming
we

with the been

avalanche to the spot where

with
a

had of

sleeping.We, however,
the

sadden
onr

access

due perhaps to modesty,

knowledgeof
our

bashfully attire,

retreated to the other side of

tree,where

some

of

our

men

were

Mendly sycamore the already perched among

without
none

branches,while the rhinoceros passedon

further
of the

demonstration. Inquiries revealed the fact that

men were

of Docere hurt,with the single exception his shin. grazed He

ben Ali,

who

had

said the rhinoceros did it, but did it himself

in

I rather inclined to the belief that he his haste to climb the

tree
our

at

the commencement

of the

stampede. We
stars

retired to
worse

blankets, thanking our

lucky
than

that
an

nothing
once

had I had

happened.

Not

more

half

hour later, when

was an more

to sleep justgot comfortably

I again,
name

aroused

by El Hakim
an

uttering my
was

in

intense
saw

In whisper.

instant I

wide

awake, and

him

and

on standing Gtoorge

Uieir blankets

into the darkness. gazingintently obscured the difficultto my

the of light moon,

cloud had

temporarily

and it was few

at first somewhat

a objects distinguish

distant. When yards

aware

eyes grew

accustomed
a

to the

I became darkness,

of

the presence of within

was a

herd of

irresolute standing hippopotamus bed.

dozen

yards of my
a was

One, ahead of the others,

in slowly advancing
our

line that would

at that moment

bring him right

not

across

and blankets,

five

yards

away.
as

We

stood undecided ; we

did not wish to alarm them, that and in us, and died
an use

they might have stampededover

have

case

we

might justas well

death beneath
a

stayedat home
was

easier
a

steam-roller. It

too dark to

rifle

262

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND. to

with any Meanwhile tion

was

while it effect, the herd

was

was

open

the

same

objection
the dtnaonr

and slowlyadvancing and

more a

becoming
at the

more

when strained,

dog

sprang

foremost

with

snarl,while "Spot^**
herd

the pnppy,

The shrill treble. his in defiance yelped

a

like and t urned, paused, disappeared with direction,

a

flash in the

opposite
an

which of feet thundering

have might

constituted

reminder of what unpleasant

come

had happened

they

in

our

direction. The puppy

came

took all the credit of the be

and patted

afESedr to himself,and
his diminutive wagging utmost

up
a

to

stroked,

tail in

manner

of expressive the and general,

contempt
in

for wild

beasts in turned

potamu hippotried to

We particular.

in

and again

once sleep

more.

was

called when my
a2

the

moon room.

had set, and

to proceeded

rig up
and

dark fresco
or

During the two

trodden
on

alaims

either El Hakim had

George had
out

my

ruby lamp
me

stamped it
bend it back

quite flat It took

of something

some

time to while
me

into

its former

shape,

the sentry stood

by and struck matches

more

to enable

to see.

the lamp was Finally

or

less

satisfEtctor

in position. and the blanket placed In the middle ac^usted

of the
me

an operation

of excited whisper

''

caused bwana,'' Faru,

I

to
one

drop

my

out. apparatusand scramble hurriedly

took
we

Hakim "1 to round, yelled glance

and

and (George,

all three

took hastily

up

our

behind the tree, position camp

at

while the

the oncoming liiinocerosdanced through

an

fifteenmiles We
too

hour and

disappeared. becoming
an

b^an
of

to think that these visitationswere

a

much

good thing. The

Mend

men,

too, manifested

anxious desire to emulate among the branches of

our

the fowls of the air and

in

roost trea

need^the i^camore

RETURN

FROM

THE

LORIAN

JOURNEY.

363

Betaming to my changingthe
the But it
was

dark room,
once

I
more

the completed

of operation
in blankets,

and plates,
we

soughtmy
other

pious hope that

not

should not be disturbed On

two

to be.
were

again. occasions during

that eventful
our

we night

to compelled

flx)m rise hurriedly

blankets

and

betake while
a

ourselves to the shelter of the

too

friendly sycamore,
past ; and the dawn
the effectsof When the
men our

whirled rhinoceros impetuous

us

discovered

from and blear-eyed weary

nocturnal

gymnastics.
march day's arrived further. We step them
to make
*'

the usual time for starting the

refused flatly

to go

the argued
one
"

with and them, point

induced finally

more

that if we march, promising then

we

did not find the that the

Siwa

(swamp)
set

would return.
a

With
as

we understanding

out,

marchingat

good pace, mid-daywe

to secure

ground was

rather firmer

underfoot than hitherto. Just before and I

a

passed a small herd of grantei,

at

managed

one

long range.
seen,

An

hour later the

coupleof

bull buffaloes were

on quietly feeding

side opposite

of the river. El Hakim

in put both

some

pretty
We

at fifty them yards, bringing shooting

down.

crossed the river and It

was

camped beside the

we

carcases. we

here that

sustained
even
now

loss which

all felt
a us

which a nd very deeply,

I cannot had

recall without

sigh.
all

'^

the Spot,"

who puppy,

endeared himself to

had and pretty by his lovable disposition gone ways,

was

to

Hakim while El the in sleep grass bufifoloes. When

not
we

with engaged
was

the

crossed the river he

tmtil
a

we

were

making
owner

our

and forgotten, for camping, arrangements

our

did

shrill bark from

the other side of the river call thereof. We

attentionto the small

a

of couple

men

across

the river to

sent immediately but him they over, bring

264

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND. to do

had to go

fifty yardsor

so

lower down

so.

The

but little wait for the would however, not, men, chap

gallant plunged

into the stream boldly

and

swam own across

towards

us,

wagging his
had
a

at his tailin infinitedelight

He daring.

scarcely
sudden
a

the of got three-parts way

of sharpyelp and pain
us

when

he gave

under the surface with disappeared

on

jerk, leaving
I waved him

standing
in

the bank
ran

wiUi speechless with up

a

sternatio con-

and distress. Bamathani away

our

but rifle,

despair.A hundred
shown
to turn

riflescould not

have restored
had

which little the to crocodile gallant dog us,

seized him
was

having
as men

never

itselfabove Uie water.

There

do but to nothing best

we

sorrowfully away

and

console ourselves We
them
were

might.
had eaten and asked
on

called the
if

after we together

they

were

to go willing

still further, but

not to

Uiey
yard
wild

unanimous

in their determination
"

go

further down

the river.
'*

Takufa

bwana" yote,
"

(We

shall all

die,master) ;
beasts devils

tele hapa Mangati

Afreeti

(There are
"

many

of are winge here) hapa plenty (There ; about here);and ''Tu'nataka kurudi, bwana" (We
''

wish to return, were master),

our ears

among

the remarks which

greeted
further
for two

at the

down-stream. volunteers who

some

that ^e should go suggestion we Finally compromised.We asked

mere

would go down
see

the river, there and

if

for liien,

hours' march, and

If

theycould
they were
if

see

of anything
we

Lorian.
would
we

they discovered
on

it

to

return,and
of nothing

all go

but there, together

to
our

they saw
on

it,

would return
was

Bendili camp

the

following day.
ben Selim

This

and two to, agreed

of the men,

Asmani

and Kati

started ofP. (an M'Nyanwezi),accordingly

same

the late returned They

and evening,

that reported
seen no

theyhad

been

some

miles down

the river and had

266

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

called Loriaii, would the eastward visit in

as

recede gradually

more

and

more

to
our

the

droughtincreased.

At

the time of
no

September,1900, there had

for three years,

been

rain

in

Samburuland

the t o according

and Ttendili,

it is therefore quite reasonable to suppose

reasons

for the that Lorian,

enumerated,had receded many

miles to the eastward turned back,

of the

point at which
that he had

Mr. Loiian

Chanler
was

having

satisfied himself
not
a

lake
seen

as

and merely a swamp that the It is possible quite supposed. Chanler may
not

swamp

by

Mr.

have

been Lorian

at to

but may all,

have been

only one

of the chain of swamps

the west
up

of it and
our

dried which had a nd the river, higher up

in that evaporation

to prior

visit. The

hot terribly
not

climate
more

one (scarcely d^ree

north of the

Equator,and
be enormous, lake

than 700 feet above

must sea-level)
even a

and

would be sufficientto
was

dry up
with

lai^

i t providing A

not

well fed with water, as

of water body
a

in the

case

of Lorian.

shallow
as

such surface-area, very lai^ in d ried easily up much

we

this swamp,

would be very

one

season

if its river-borne water-supply was

reduced. turned reluctantly retraced

our

On the
our

of morning
on

September6th

backs

the elusive Lorian,and

on

steps.

Nothing of

interest occurred marches

over

the return

journeybeyond

the usual weary

the desolate country already

a

described, punctuatedat intervals with

hunt
us

rhino

chargeor
amused
a

for meat.

I remember

one

rhinoceros which
our

much. very

We

were

making

way

across

belt of

bush which somehow

managed

to draw

sustenance

firom the of ''Faru"

sand, when
caused
us

the familiar but

to

subdued

shout

ten round. us yards glance Facing hurriedly In rhinoceros and a was large snorting. a stamping away few seconds he made up his mind to investigate, and charged

RETURN

FROM

THE

LORIAN

JOURNEY.

267

down

upon

us.

his to (George place Somethingimpelled and send forth

a

fingers
^whistle.
oareer,

in his mouth The

so

shrill ear-piercing

rhinoceros charging

in midstopped suddenly
on over

indeed,that suddenly,
Such that
a

he almost sat

his hind its ugly

a

quarters.
features

look of

came surprise porcine

we

burst out involuntarily

into

roar

of

brute's the ungainly laughter,which apparentlycompleted

discomfiture, as symptom get

our

it turned

and

galloped away
a

with
we

every could

of fear. We the return

also shot every crocodile

as

at

on

journey,

of loss the set-ofiF against

lamented
On

but it failed afford to us pup,

satisfEU^tion. any
return

the fifth day after we

started

on

our

journey

we

arrived half-starved and the of light

were

footsore at

our

Bendili camp.

In

this

I experiencecan

quite believe that the

reach could they
to be in the

Bendili

when right

theyasserted that

liOrian in two

days,always supposiogLorian
A

to it, viz. read position roughly assigned

1" 5' 0" N. lat. and

30*" 30' 0" K

long.
curve

native

with the acquainted perfectly

and Nyiro altogether,
cut

country would abandon

across

the Waso

the

big

which the river makes

across

to the north and

a

and south-east,

travelling
before him

the desert in he would Plateau,

direction

east-north-east firom the Zambo

a

onlyhave
marches If I
ever

march fifty-mile
a

"

by

no

means

difficult matter
two

for
of

make t o as he would native, only require

miles each in twenty-five another

hours. forty-eight

make

tripdown

the Waso

I Nyiro shall certainly

adoptthat plan myself.

The moment
when a nd killed,
we

reached camp

we

ordered
us

be to sheep
sat down

it was
were we were

cooked the three of

and small
we

finished it. We

it and was very hungry,

our satisfying

onlya
account

sheep.
summoned

While

material wants,
an

Jumbi

that he

might give

of his

i68

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

It appeared that stewardship.

he had The
one

bought a

of couple

hundred sheep in
Bobli had moved

our

absenca

Somalia under march up

were

Ismail

their camp and

the liver,

the following

Sendili

w ho Borkeneji,

moving

their villages np-stream,the There

was
a

finished. adjacent pasturebeing

recrudescence of

small-pox among
was

the Bendili

and many On
to hear

were

dyingdaily. Such
he had
to say.
was

the
over

news.

the

I rode followiug morning

to Ismail's camp

what

I found

the Somalis veiy

to

despondent. Business
of two presence

decreasing, as, owing

was was

the

the market safaris,

trade with glutted

a necessarily so for bought

goods. They were

buying camels, which sheep had

was

slow the could camels as very process, many cloth

be only
be

sheep.
or

These

first to

for purchased

wire,and Ismail
a

o ut finding to

that between that of

a

the

value of wished to

he sheep wished there sell,

was a

buy,and
a

he sheep

wide difference.
me

Ismail also informed

come

that

Wa'Embe of party and Burkeneji,

had had

to

trade with
a

the Bendili and

stayedat
the

the river. further village Burkeneji up

When
among

the Wal^nbe

heard that the Somalis

were

camped
"

of Uiem their of hosts, theyinquired villages

why they
We
have

had not attacked the Somalis and

beaten
men

them. speared

them
our

twice,"they said,''and killed many

spears. Their bullets did not
?
"

of thar
us.

with

hurt
not

Why
on

do you not spear them

This advice have

was

lost

the it in

and Burkeneji, the

went
near

they

would

acted probably upon

news

future ; but

the Ismail, hearing the

from

his

spies,
who

forth to attack

Wa'Embe, mischief-making

forthwith fled without The

next
our

battle. giving also moved

a our

day
tents

we

camp
a

and up-stream, the firom yards

pitched

afiresh on

spot

few

RETURN

FROM

THE

LORIAN

JOURNEY.

269
We

river-bankand 500

yards

or

so

fix)m Ismafl's boma. intended

was

understood firom Ismail

and for Maisabit,
some

that he
reason

north to going

he

I anxious that very

to

should leave "1

him accompany

Hakim

and

G^rge
He
I
was

retnm

alone and his

K

northward.

very

in pressing

invitation, which, however,

Jamah had been
an

declined. consistently have

alive,nothingwould

pleasedme

betterthan

of penetrating further northward opportunity end and Beshiat north Marie the at perhaps
a

to Marsabit and of Lake

I but entertained such Budolph,

some

contempt hearty

forIsmail, that the prospect of did not company in altering my After

we our

months'

journeyin his
to warrant
me

offer sufficientinducement

arrangements.
had settled down
in
our

fresh camp

we

centrated con-

attention on
we

remainder the exchanging

of

our

doth for sheep, so that

to Nairobi.

might start
wished
to

on

our

return

journey
in

El
for
to

Hakim

get

back
we

to Nairobi

November
gone back

personalreasons,
the getting

otherwise

should have

M'thara,and after buying a fresh supply of

of beads which odd loads forty
we charge,

food there, and

were

in N'Dominuki's

had intended

journeying

to Lake

Baringoand
was

thence northward

into the country of

theTurkana. Business idea. He slack "1 Hakim until very hit

on
a

bright

called the Bendili chiefis Lomoro, Lubo, Lokomogo, that out pointed
a a

and and other lesserlights together,

we

although
far
''

had dwelt amongst them of them, Lubo

to

for almost

month,

so

only
was

one

had wit, El
were a

brought
always
token of

us

present.

It

well

known,*' continued they

Hakim, "that when

'friends'

visited the Bendili and sheep, therefore

even

with presented many He good-will."

we

camels,as

was

to conclude that reluctantly compelled

and the

370

THROUGH
were

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

Bendili

not

Mends,
But

which state of afEaizs

not

his filled and if late,

so

heart with those who within

sorrow.

it was still,

yet
a

too

had not

sheepas yet brought days

all would

present did

the next

few

be

and foigotten

foigiyen.
The mogo effectwas stalked
a

magical.Earlythe following day Lokointo camp, followed by a couple of men

mnch after which, sheep, his present El
as

driving

small flock of thirteen

drcnmlocution,he introduced
made immediately him
a

Bakim

return

present of

"^ quantity

like twenty cloth, wire,and beads,of the value of something above cent, per
was

the market

priceof the sheep. Lokomogo sign

how

and delighted,

with w ith his present departed eveiy

of

and good-wilL pleasure The other chiefs must have been

to waiting
aee

Lokomogo's presentwas the presentscame had been satisfactory,

of every present consisting
more nor a

as the next received,

it day,finding

in thick and bst,

thirteen exactly

sheep, neither
value of

less than that

return

donor Each Lokomogo. brought by

over

received the

present
business

and above the market

and sheep,
we

boomed, everybody being fedrly

the in sheep
have

satisfied.Had

offered treble the value of the

we business,

ordinary way
as

of

could not

bought any,
he made
a

the market

was

with trade glutted

on

goods. El Hakim,

however, touched them

their weak

spot when

ceremonial transaction of claim to

a

his the result and it, justified fully of into the insight the of working

certain amount

native mind. About this time I

was

with prostrated
me

very

severe

which confined toothache, the time I

was

to my
our

tent for some

days. By
of exchange
was

about
worked

again
so

scheme
our

for the cloth

had presents

well that

almost

RETURN

FROM

THE

LORIAN

JOURNEY.
our

271

and exhausted,

we

were

nearlyreadyto take
now

departure
to safely

for irthara. We
to be promised
a

had

of 500 upwards

it and sheep,

tedious task to transportthem

we were

Nairobi ;
our

more

as especially

of doubtful extremely

reception by
I^ttein the

ATdkuyu before two days evening

the

of north-east Eenia.
our

firom departure
came

the Bendilisettlement, of the Somalis a couple alarm. of camp exhibiting every symptom firom message warriors had him attacking the small Ismail
to

into

our

They broughta
the
^

the

effect that three

was

Burkeneji

killed and and

us.

eaten

The attack the

same

to sheep preparatory to take place during

hours

of

night.

His

information

emanated firom some We had

Bendili friendly but night,

we

the for r etired already

over

doimed Ismail.

our

dothes and went

The Somali

to the Somali camp

was

to see

camp
was

in

excitement. of state great

to his men
were

IsmaU himself
a

ammunition o ut serving

with

lavish hand, and others of the Somalis boma. the strengthening

as

bush cutting did not harm

own

and otherwise

We
no

quite
take
and

believetheir story,but

it would returned

do
to

to

ordinary precautions,
we

our

camp

proceededto
It
was

defence. of into it state a put

well already

protected
on

two to be

sides

by

thick

interlaced as beltof bush, so thickly "llen by a large

and impenetrable,

thorn tree, which, while

seen through, easily

finrneda barrier as impassable to naked

wire More entanglement. erected
on

savages
cut

as

barbed
and
a

thombush

was

down the

banier strong where side,

the river sida

were

On

opposite

the men's tents

we situated,

built another

fires thorn fraice, the with the outside tents burning leaving
1

It is the custom wariike

of the natives to kUl and eat meat

before settmgout

on

expedition.

272

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND. event

as

nsual,in the hope that in the

did not think that the enemy
a

of hostilitiesthe the first attack. feel inclined to

tents would apparently unprotected

draw would

We make

second.
men

The

all

under slept

arms

in the centre
we

of

our

whom of the sentries, boma" with the exception

some

posted

distance outside the camp.

was

The

8-bore,loaded with
a

slugs,
blue hundred

with half placedhandy,together

dozen of the
scene as

which would instantly the flares, light up

for
awe-

yards round
the enemy defensive
to
our

with
as

an

intense radiance

to inspiiing

it would

be useful to ourselves.
we completed

When

our

were preparations

retired
a

dressed fully

and endeavoured blankets,

success

to snatch

with such little sleep, We

that we

did not wake till sunrise.

''

demolished the temporarily

boma

"

on

the side

on

which the men's tents stood,so scheme of the useful The that
some

that

we

should not

giveour

away

should

we

be visited
we

Burkeneji, as, Burkeneji

were

for all

the day by any during knew, it might yet prove

were

as restless, undoubtedly

we

found

they

moving going
as

down their villages

as

the river again,

of them

far

the eastern spur of the Zambo

Plateau.

night but evening, previous

precautions still happened. nothing On September20th we o f had finally disposed all our and were now to leave for M'thara. Ismail stock, quite ready
we same as on

The next

took the

the

informed
us

us

that he

was

goingnorth

to

and bade Marsabit,

good-bye.
When
we

retired that night we

took the

same

precautions eveningwe

About against surprise.

were

in o'clock the eight

a

aroused

by

the reportof

riflefrom the direction of

274

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

the confused groaps of men, of light and it was

of their

seen
a

dimly
no

in Uie
was

flickenng
Two
one a

the

After camp-fires.

time order

restored,

found that there had been shot dead

attack at alL
and confusion,

porterswere
a

in the the

Somali received horse which which he

was

Snider bullet in

forearm; while

Ismail had

firom the bought

a

and of Bendili,

received proud, very

one

bullet in the chest and cattle

were

another in

of its hoofs.
scent of
a

The

stampededby the
round in broad IsmaiL

lion which

had been

probably prowling

the boma, and

which,some

h ad before, actually days

a

seized and killed daylight,

cow

to belonging

Ismail Congratulating
on

on

the state of his

we

nerves
once

and
more.
our

the

of lus discipline camp,

bade him

adieu

We

then shook the dust of the Bendili settlement from

our

and started amid the joyousshouts of feet, M'thara. the river for rtAiAe en journey up

men

on

our

CHAPTER

XVI.

RETURN

TO

HiTEARJL

Departure
hunt" Waso

from

the

BendOi Barri and

"

settlement" the Somalls

Ismafl'a
"

porters desert"
"A

The

between affiray Ismail*B

^Ismail womided"

giraffe
ap the

vaoillation

^Another

giraffe hmit"

Journey

Nyiro" Hippopotamns-shooting.

Ws

marched
a

steadily
snitable

for

nearly

three
on

hours,

and

then,
i^

selecting
rmUe
we

spot, camped
several
stone

the

riyer-bank.
on

noticed
were

cairns, which
the BendilL do
not

inquiry
the their tender
a

I learnt

the

bnrial-placesof
and

Unlike leave the

Wakamba^
dead mercies in the
or

A'kiknyn, dying
of Uie relatives

Masai,

they

outside

their
on

to villages,

hysenas. They,
in

the is

contrary, dig

hole

ground,
Stones and In and

which
are

the

corpse
over

placed body

in

sitting
a

position.
is

then

piled
spear
utter negro,

the

till

cairn the the

formed,

finally a
of the

is

placed upright

on

summit. Bendfli

view

dissimilarity between
and the is lack
to

the

ordinary

of my

definite mind
a

information
curious dead who in
at

concerning
at

their least the the

origin, it
that
same

coincidence almost
one

they
manner

should
as

bury
the in

their

predsely
inhabited

people Upper

time

banks

of the

NUe

Egypt*
1

The

Bongo

of the Bahr

el Ghasal

also

buy

their dead instead

in the of stones.

sitting

^th the ooyering body potttion,

logs and branches

275

276

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

I remember

in Cairo, in hearing

the

early part of 1899,

some

that Professor Flinders Petrie had which

to be
were

unearthed
a

graYes
as

of to be those supposed
use

so people

ancient

with the unacquainted

a

and who of metals,

buried

their dead in

afterwards coveringthem position, sitting the in

earthen jar over a large by invertiDg the filling up grave. Mr. land Seton Karr's
taken These fetcts,

body and

then

with conjunction

of discovery

in Somaliflint implements

I resembling,

those discovered by Professcv believe,

in the hands

Petrie in
an

Egypt may,
be

of

an

throw antiquarian^

on interesting light

the antecedents of this remarkable indeed could it interesting

be

It people. would

shown

that the Bendili

race on

are

the modem

of the primirepresentatives tive

in flint

who

manufactured

clay potteryand worked

were pj^ramids a

the banks of the Nile before the When

we

built.

had

constructed

boma

for the

sheep, George
feat
we

and I went

down

to bathe in the Waso

Nyiro,a

to accomplished successfully

the

of accompaniment

the

usual eccentric dance In the camp.

was
we

on

account

of the leeches.

evening
a

young

Somali,named
to Nairobi

Barri, came
as

into
he

He

wished to return

with us, and

not bound

to Ismail in any to his

own

way,

not

receiving any pay,

indeed, a small
cattle had for
out

consented
on

doing

so.

He
a

was,

trader

his

account, and with

coupleof

in order to try to exchangethem Ismail accompanied

two

tusks.

This purpose he had not been able to cany

to
some on

He

therefore sold them

of the other Somalia

who
as

accompanied Ismail's
himself,and, unknown
Nairobi with
was us.

caravan

the

same

conditions
return

to

to Ismail, proposed at the time

as

to

We

did not know

that Ismail Barri had

a

unaware

of the
a

and change, proposed of El

been formerly

servant personal

Hakim's,and

very

RETURN

TO

NPTHARA.

277

good

man,

we

gave

him

to permiasion

accompany

us

on

condition that he made Before away

at
an

himself useful the

smuise
camp

on

following morning, Bani

some

went

from

to

try to procure

fresh milk

for

us

isolated borrowed

some Burkenejivillage

littledistance away.
a own

He
he of
we

my

Martini ammunition

and

half

dozen

as cartridges,
a

had

no

more

for his
set
our

weapon, An hour

carbine
as later,

Italian
were

and manufacture, start

on

out.

to preparing

who march, Ismail Robli,

a

had

travelled all

night, accompaniedby
our

strong party of
He

Somalia,all fully armed, strode into

none

camp.

stated,

too

that politely,

most
reason

of his
to

remainingporters had they

nor

and deserted,

he

had

believe that

were

accompanying our
informed politely
we seen

safari. him
but

we Ignoringhis discourtesy, was

that such

not

the case,
any way

had his He

his men;
our

if it would

in

ease

mind

he had

look t o permission and so, of

course

the through camp. found

no

proceededto

do

traces

of his

missingporters.
In the meanwhile Barri
was

with returning

the milk

he

had

and purchased,
new

was

the camp, approaching

was

allunconscious
two

of this

He affairs. of aspect

by sighted

of

Ismail's armed

into their who, slipping cartridges guards,

Sniders,rushed
on

towards

him, demanding his instant

Barri's

render sur-

of death. pain
a

reply,

more

forcible than helterparatively com-

polite,
was

shot from the Martini,which

cover

sent them From

skelter to the safe

cover

of the nearest bush.

a

that

held they position

with him, parley

under

of which

they sought
aware

an

of opportunity

at shooting

him.

He, however, was

of their amiable

intentions,

with his rifleat the and, standing the first man

who

threatened to shoot ready, One of them tried

raised his weapon.

278

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

which, though he missed his it, but Barri instandyfired,

man,

stopped any effectually

for Ismail, busily searching

farther

attempt

at

sudi

treachery.
his absent

the h eard porters,

rushed firom his search, and, momentarily shots, desisting

out of camp
to
see

what

was

the matter.

Fifty yardsaway
Somalia,
murder I

he who

saw

Barri with

the r ifle two uplifted covering the bush.

saw

were
on

behind cowering
a

If

ever on

saw

written

man's

face, I
he
was

it then

and Ismail's, after him,

was

what remembering followed

a ran

I of, capable

went

by

EL Hakim

and

Ismail Greoige.

carrying
as

12-bore
at

with loaded ball shot-gun the unslung

of

and cartridges, from

he

Barri he

weapon

his shoulder.
a

Barri turned in the nick hesitation fired

a

time, and without

Ismail

second's

him. at point-blank the

into collapsed and fled

writhing heap on speedof a

These events

turned while Barri ground,

with the

deer into the

bush. surrounding

happenedin

such

rapidsucoession

that

we

had
were

no

time to interfere and prevent the

as we catastrophe,

outside the Ismail felL when Of tiie two just only camp had

Somalia who

broughtBarri
assist IsmaiL

to

bay, one
That
a

followed him,

he soon but, apparently half-heartedly, very the other would-be

was ran

returned,and
and

to

swashbuckler

assassin had

into struggled

and sitting position,

at

with groaning

howls h is punctuating great vigour,

intervals with
curses
on

to Allah, mingled wiUi supplications

bitter

the him
a

head

of his

assailant.

We

immediately
He injuries.

examined

to ascertain the extent

of his

had sustained

flesh-wound nasty

on

the inside of his bullet had

right
not

lega

few inches above the ankle.

The

cut away

the flesh and

laid bare the bone, but

had fortunately

fractured it. El Hakim

dressed and bound

the wound, while

RETURN

TO

ATTHARA.

279

the saperintended

constraction of
own

litter in which

Ismail

could be

his to conveyed took

camp.
soon

His removal him accompanied

place

after
on

midday.

El Hakim

to his camp,

and"
our

there,again arriving
own

dressed the wound,

to returning
was

camp
means as

late in the and serious, many of his

us

evening.
would
be

Ismail's wound

by
or

no

quitewell

in

week

so, and

porters had

he seemed deserted,
we

inclined to accompany

back to Eenia, and marches IsmaU

to

to make therefore, decided,

short very order that

for the next

few

in days,primarily
us

could communicate the

with

if necessary, and

secondly,

accustom gradually

to sheep

marching in preparation

Nairobi for their long to tramp We of his did not

men

neither in he Ismail the a s least, pity

a

nor

any
to

had

Barri threaten to right

or

in any

way

control his movements, and,in that Barri had acted

I had ocular evidence addition, self-defence.

was now

in purely

Nevertheless,
in

knowing

that Ismail's safari

as

numerically very
munication comwere

weak, and the Wa'Embe,

with
to abandon

were stated, already

the

we Burkeneji,

inclined disstrongly

his safari to

perhapsfurther
not

misfortune.
to

This

I feeling,

must

admit, did
shown

extend
to

Ismail

as personally,

he had

himself

be

vacillating entirely fifty porters

one

a nd bully,

man

of evil

which passions, stillsome

at times

mastered him. who deserved

a

But he had

or forty

better fate, and in addition, a

mishap to
other time.

safSEuinaturally affected any mischievously

which

happenedto
the camp.

be in the districtat
we night

or

near

the

same

the During

were

much

troubled
we

by lions round
no was

They were

not

or roaring, roar

should have had

as Leo apprehensions,

does not

tillhe has killed. It is so modulated

the

low whininggrunt,which peculiar

that

28o

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

it is
even

difficult to extremely

estimate the brute's distance, or

locate his direction. The

sheep
our

were men

very imeasy,
to

and

it required the utmost from

exertions of

them prevent

stampeding.The fireswere
all night we

stirred up and fresh wood

were

pUed upon them, but

morning
we

kept constantly
on

the

untoward happened. Next alert^ thoughfortunately nothing struck camp,

sun

and
was

wandered

up

the

river,

camping againbefore the

This programme
was

well above

the horizon.

six days. for the following repeated

we

During this
Ismail
were

time

received almost

from daily reports

by

the hands

of

special messengers.
terms. vacillating
was

These One

reports

couched

in his usual

day

he

would

send word

that he

coming on
of

the

day following
us

with his safari for the purpose

accompanying

back to had

Kenia, while the

determined We
to

next
more our

message camels

would

state that he

buy
alter

and go north to Marsabit. but marched

did not

six-day programme,

on. slowly

For
game

one

thing,
we

the men, in feeding had greatdifficulty We

were

being sheep for food except as a last attention instead to shooting.

scarce.

kill to unwilling naturally

resource,

but

turned

our

On the afternoon of the third hear "om

a

I day
a

was

lucky enough to

of party

that Burkeneji

few

giraffe

were

in the

I neighbourhood.

saddled up the

the mule, and, taking big

a

Martini,salliedforth, accompanied by
After
to angles
a

of men. couple
at
or

ten-mile tramp in

direction almost
a

right eight

I discovered the river,

herd of

seven

mile half distant. hill of the base a t a a giraffe quietly feeding

I dismounted and

examined

them

They had
of my

not observed me,

but

throughthe binoculars. chance there was no possible

I was,
as

them reaching

from

where

the

was plain

282

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

on

cnttmg the beast up, that my

second bullet had smashed

the through

shoulder-blade and ribs, and

then,having been

the heart,tearing had passed dean through flattened, slightly

a

in that and hole then great organ,

on

the passing through

ribs

and shoulder-blade where skin,

the
a

under it lodged side, opposite

tiie

it formed

small

lump, which

was

distinctly

visible from the outside. In

spiteof

the extensive

nature
a

of its

the iiyuries,

stricken

had galloped over giraffe

it that sign
was

hundred With the

yardswithout
regard to
the

givingany
express

hurt. think

I do t hjsmselves, injuries

not

most

expensive

riflemade

would

have

done better.

I2ie Certainly

Martini is a As
my

useful wonderfully
two
men

all-round weapon.

with the mule had not turned up

my

by

the

time I had concluded

to look for them.

examination
not
on

of the

I went giraffe,

They were

the spot where from them, my

I left

them, neither could I get any

shouted

answer

though I
to

myself hoarse.

I therefore made and climbed

ba(^ "ray

the small hill I have mentioned From

there I

to tiiesummit
theless never-

but got an extended view of the countiy,

see
a

I could not my

sign of the
I had

men. a

shouted,but

voice
I

was
was

lost in space.
in the

whistle with syren the men; but

a

which

habit of

summoning

I though hooted and screamed

of the it like through cry

lost tug-boat, nothingresulted.

I

gazedround
of

the empty
sun

w ith landscape
and fast, sinking nightten miles

akin feeling I stood

from
a

to

The desperation. chance good

was

very

the passing

camp

and

alone supper, Once

answer
more

on

the hillside with the

on

body

of the

giraffe
was no

I wailed

the syren

but there whistle,

the beyond I length

saw

of a frightened bird. chirrup them around loafing about 800

At

yards

RETURN

TO

M'THARA.

283

away.
not
seem

I redoubled my
to hear
me.

but they did and whistling, shouting As

a

last resource, I laid down, and,

in the sand

taking aim
within

with the

bullet a Martini, planked Their attention

was

of fifty yards them.

immediately
direction.

to locate my aroused,and theygazed about trying

Another

shot gave

them

the information
to
me. rejoin
a

and theyrequired,

started they immediately ensconced safely

Leaving one
as a

man

in the branches of

tree

guard

over

the

I returned girafife,

with the other to camp,

which I did not

reach tilllongafter night had fedlen. On the the

I despatched half arrival,
a

dozen men,

with vrater and

from to guard the dead giraffe a fire, lighting and possibly lions. Barn, I found,had returned hysenas,
means

of

to our

camp

and

thrown

himself

on

our

mercy.
in his

He

was

informed

that he

might be perfectly easy

Ismail to up
on was

mind, as

we

should not

givehim

which for account^ any

consideration he
we were

extremely grateful During the night

who lions, againby

troubled

prowled round
the

the

camp, We

doubtless attracted by the moved the river up

a

sheep.
on

littlefurther the

following
men

sent and,campingearly, morning,

of the majority

to

cut up

the

We giraffe.
we

found

the meat

and horribly tough Even the

men
were

but tasteless, did not very them It

was

somehow. with it struggled The

over marrow
a

take

kindlyto it.
firstroasted

bones,which

we large,

and then,breaking fire,

marrows

with

an

iron bar,ate their rich

with

teaspoon.
small

a nd much well flavoured, very the b ank opposite

appreciated. Nyiro was

a

On

of the Waso

of village

mixed

Hendili and
course

the Burkeneji, of the in return

some

elders of which

paidus
us

the visit during

a

day. They brought

we

four

sheepas
of
our

and present,

gave

them

the

remainder

stock of beads and

with which cloths,

284
were

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

they delighted. They a special honour, and to secure

crocodiles while and
it giving

left us

in the evemng,

and

as

them

fixmi the attacks

of

El t he Hakim river. crossing

lit a blue flaie" his foUowen

to the awestruck
was

he and chief,
to
see

departed. It
held it. He
as

very

amusing

the way
care

the chief
to

was

half afraid of it, but did not

show

much

before his followers, so

he held it at arm's time it

length,
fisw

with apprehension shuddering every

droppeda

sparks.
On the
of morning

sixth the it 29th, day being September considered

our

to Ismail's accident, we subsequent to

obligatio
we

in linger the district at

a

an

end.

had Scarcely

come

to that decision when

messenger

from Ismail

brought word
IsmaQ,

that the Somalis had On

MarsaUt north to decided to finally go

we

hearingthis message,

sent

our

t o blessing
"

which, I expect,got the messenger

he ventured to deliver M'thara in earnest. and Oeorge We
so

into trouble
"

if ^that is,

which it,

I doubt

and

we

started for

occasioned which had hill the passed trouble

on
our

myself

much

journeydown

the

between river, passing which boma wound that

we on

it and

the river
scarp.

by

nairow

path
a

round found
his

its southern
near

We had

halted at been

the

which river,

built

by

Ismail The

the Hendili. to journey

a

men we

reported
at

in hippo

pool

some

way

the up found extend

and river,

went accordingly

forth to of the Falls for

We it. slay

the
from

pool
found

the lower

end

which rapids,

the foot of the Ghanler the

It

nearly

mile below.
at it with

We

and there, hippo

was

Georgebanged
this

the 8-bore. used the hole

the first time

had weapoft

been

during the
in

and trip,

with unfamiliar George,being

a drilling

missed sighting,

the brute's brain, merely it. stunning It

never

its skull and

gave

us

RETURN

TO

M'THARA. to

285
the

another
our

chance, so
the way

we

had

leave

pool without
the the

hippo.
On back to camp
we

two giraffe on sighted

were
a

other side of the water^s the

which river, I took the

coming down

to

edge to
and

drink. wounded

shot at 200

with yards

'303

which foremost,

immediately

dashed
to

followed away,

by its companion. Being unwilling

at that

let it go, I
was

jumped into the river,which, though the point not

or more

current

was veiy swift,

than I

four feet in waded I found

across

depth.
few

Followed

by

two

three of the men,

and resumed
a

the chase of the wounded

giraffe. planked
more

it

hundred

yards farther

on,

and

another solid bullet into it, which had the effectof off at it starting This went
now
on a

once

gallop.
for
a a

mile

or

two, the
on

giraffe stopping every

a

and

then

for

rest, and

another shot, receiving

making
of the

it forced its way into off again. Finally

a

patchof
to

thick bush interlaced with

number large
I

of

specimens prize
attempt
round
went

terrible wait-a-bit thorn.

did not but

bush this penetrate

in like manner,
a

it

instead, seeking for

more

favourable
a

entrance.

While

doing being

crash of I familiar the heard so, that my then satisfied

and body, falling

had last I at succumbed, quarry

to retrace attempted my

footsteps.

In the excitement of the chase I had

to take any
men

carelessly neglected
across

the business t hat of the to leaving part bearings,

me

who

accompanied
The and

when

I dashed

the river.
not
one

When them

I turned to

to speak

them, I found that

back

of

wuTnear.
had turned

chase not long sneaked

their to being Two

liking,
little
to take

they

long before.

directed them alone I had so remained, boys A'kikuyu

me

back to camp

by the shortest route.

they They protested

286

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND. to compelled

did not

know

the way, however,so I

was

take

the lead and to try to find it myself. It

to
was

fast growing dusk, and

as

I hmiied
on a

on

pictured
the

the discomforts attendant myself

a

night passedin
for

fork of

tree.

was

once

lost in the bnsh

twenty-fini
I had

honrs while after sable

no

in Mashonaland, and antelope

an

wish to repeatthe
I once scrambling,
our

After experience.
more

honr of

olrmhing
a

and

reached the river, bnt alas ! at The river at this

pointtBX below
numerous through

camp.

placeflowed
a

narrow

channels between greatboulders "tf

as

it and seemed pink gneiss,

if there would

be

posBibflit
was as

by jumpLog from rock to rock, though it crossing rather a dangerous the rocks proceeding, beingrendered
smooth
water. and

of

as polished glass by the constant action of the and attempted the Grossing. However, I strij^ied

When
and
a

I say I

I mean stripped,
not much
a

that I removed
in the way

my of

boots

socks, as I had

else on

clothing;

thin cotton vest,and

coloured cloth worn

a

pettiooat-wis
could wish for
or an

and as airy completing

cool

costume

as

one

in that beautiful climate.

and slipped
no

fell once

twice,
hour

I sustained fortunately though

and half injury,

later I reached camp, tired but

on a

dined and happy,

sumptuously
m^i

cut

guinea-fowl. the following At daylight morning in returned the but they girafife ; up
were

we
an

sent the

to

that hour,saying the way

they

unable

to find it.
one

from Judging

they

of the other complained over-anxious to do

so.
more

I do shot,

not think

theywere
we river,

Settingoff camped
soon

once

on

our

march
men

the up
out

after

midday,and
man

sent

to search for
a

Presently game. itselfin solitary hippo was disporting

one

returned with the report that

a

rockypoola

little

RETURN

TO

APTHARA.

287
on a

distance away. arrival sat down disturbed ripple

rock overhanging
two
our

We

adjourned to the spot,and

In
a

our

to watch.

moment

or

two

faint
an

the snrfiace of the water, and

on

nnder

the

of s ide the opposite

coarse

pool appeared
We held

red nostrils covered with breath and waited.

as

black hair.

In about
as

appeared twenty seconds theydiscome

and suddenly waited

expose

as theyhad silently an

into

view. brute

We would for
a

for

over

hour

in the

its

Jiead and thus

But and

hope that the give us an opportunity

decisive shot

nothingoccurred beyond
of the emerge, and

the
on

periodical appearance
At
as length,

nostrils the of disappearance

the water-line to indicate the presence the head did not El Hakim

huge body
we

below.

held

and consultation, whispered

cross

I decided shot from We

to

the river in the

a hope of obtaining

the

the look-out on bank, opposite leaving George made

over we

ingly accord-

our

down-stream way

to where

the

river, running
our

banks,became gravel
waded
across

shallower.

to Stripping
on

shirts,
we side,

Arrived breast-deep.
our

the other

made cautiously above the directly

to breathe.

way

to

and George, spot opposite

where the place

an

hippocame
we

to the surface

Half

hour
our

passedwhile
soaked shirts

stood stiLland
our

silent bare

as

with statues,

round fiappiog

1^.
came

imnoticed by George and myself, the Suddenly,

to the surface
a

hippo
El
sent

little further out

in the

pool.

Hakim, however, saw

a

'677 bullet

and quick as thought instantly, throughits head. He had not time to his

it

his in and to the rifle shoulder, consequence place

was

finger hippo.

torn

by the heavyrecoiL
was

He

however,in his succeeded,

which object,

either to kill or in the

the stun momentarily

water the Presently

pool became violently agitated,

over
on

and

soon

the

immense

beast rolled

the

surface.

288

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

and I

w ith it its immediately quietus gave

bullet

tJirou^

its brain. Our rushed before

waiting
down

men

gave

vent
carcase

to

and yellof delight^

to secure

the

but,to their dismay,

washed it away and

they could reach it the

two

current

between wedged it tightly waterfall which

water
so on

rocks at the top of the small The pool.

men

exit the to gave

was

of the pressure needed food

the

body

but the very great,

that we badly

made

the most

Herculean
an

effortsto

dislodge

it by the aid of ropes and

we

After poles.

hour's hard work,

into the utmost

managed

to free

it, only to be thrown

consternation of the next

water

to by the body sinking immediately the bottom

pooL

The

men

refused flatly

to

into the go

to look for

there were as it,

one

all sorts of queer holes in been washed

the rocks into which

current

could have

by the
was

and crushed

or

there drowned, and in addition,

the ever-present fear of crocodiles. We sounded with

in

polestill our

arms

ached,and

were

about to bolder
or

when one or two of the men, giveup despair in and than their more fellows, jumped hungry
dive.

to attempted

Suddenly
the
a

one

of them

came

to

the

surface with
at

he had found the shout, saying joyful

of

carcase

the bottom
^iTn

pool
stout

in ten

feet of water.

We

gave dive

the end of make

but

line in order that he

one

might

againand

it fast to

of the feet. This he confessed

attemptedto do,
himself beaten. There

after

repeatedtrials he

being

no

other

I undertook for it, help

the task

after of a nd the third lot at a attempt, myself,

in the swift current, I succeeded in

manoeuvring
at last

making

the line fiftst

round seemed

one

of the

above the foot. Success just legs

and by dint of pulling the line, on we certain, gently

CHAPTER

XVn.

ARRIVAL

AT

WTHARA.

In

aie^tofEenk again"
buried
"

once

more"

El Hakim El

and

the lion" shoots

"

The
an news

''Green

Caaip**
MHhaia NDomi-

The

babj

wato-back"

Hakim

elephant" lltt
from

bnfihlo hnrns and

destroyed by hyttnas
massacre us

^Bad

Plot to attack
"

hatched
"

by

Bei-Mnnithn" Airiyal at
our

nnki*s

foot fidelity^Baked elephant's

Bain"

old camp

atM'thara.

On road

the reeuiniiig mnch It better

march than firm and

np-rivernext
on our

morning,

we

found

tiie

journey down

the

opposite

bank. dSbru Now

lay

over

littered gravelly ridges, there with scattered of mineral

to

witii qnarti bushes.

dotted and

here
we

thorn

again
we

crossed
down in

patches
the

salts, some
obtain
some

of which

boiled the

endeavour tasted

table salt,but
nauseous

resulting compound
admimstered

more

like

As in in

mixtures childhood's

by
than

the

family physician
and
was

our

happy

days

anything,

consequence

utterlyuseless
the next
cut

for table purposes.

we

During
Waso

few
across

days

did not

keep rigidlyto the occasionally

necessary

Nyiro, but
miles

many

of the curves,

camping
"rater

away
in

from the

the river, obtaining the beds of the

not
numerous

by digging
it
was

sand the
our

riv^s,
in

when small
we

generally found

far below

sur"ce,
needs
as we were

quantities it

is true, but This

sufficient for
was

if

dispensed with
without

washing.
a

the easier
soap is

quite

and soap,

wash

without

an

factory unsatis-

performance anyhow.
290

ARRIVAL

AT

JITTHARA.

291

Once

or

twice

we

caught

Eenia of glimpse
an

far away

to

the soathward.
was

It seemed

like
a

old Mend, and its appearance followed

on

with alwaysgreeted

cheer from the men,

by

burst of energy, spasmodic

loads their for, resettling

out with renewed

their shoulders, theywould

if anxious

step

as vigour,

to reach it at once, but

after a few minutes their would

suddenly awakened
would
men

enthusiasm
more

vanish, and

they

once relapse

into the listlessbut

of gait steady

wearied The

by continuous traveL
of of

appearance the power

Eenia

at

that distance

was

grand
peak,
effect

beyond
crowned
an

expression. The

wonderful

with

patches of purest white

diamond

snow,

like sparkled

immense

in the brilliant sunshine, an

further accentuated the with

afforded by by the perfect background

a

deep

clear blue of of
a

cloudless
or

sky.
of

Even
an

were

gifted

the pen

poet

the brush

I should artist,

hesitate in the attempt to

that magnificent adequately depict

its stately head heavenwards, and templeof nature, rearing

bearing
a

silent and

to convincing testimony

the

of the glory

Creator. On Game October

was

3rd

we
an

crossed the Waso

Nyiro once
or

more.

still scarce,

occasional water-buck Even

rhinoceros

forming our
failed us
at

only sustenance.
and times, We
we

that limited selection of

our

were

kill to some compelled

cattle for meat.

those who have

yearned for vegetable food,as

part of
yearn.
two

only

lived for the best without salt, can

months

on meat, exclusively

The

monotony

of boiled meat, roast meat, Med

must be

meat, and boiled meat

again,
old We
our

to be folly understood. experienced

Two

the days after crossing

river

we

passed our

"Swamp
made
a

Camp,"

where

the
on

midges
that

so

annoyed us.

''telekesa" march

day, however, and

292

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

second march snndown

on a

took

us

the beyond swamp.

"

We

camped
few

at

spot veiy close to the river

in We fact. edge,

onlya
a

yards

from the water's in dogs

so

disturbed

pack of wild
but
it

a nd doing,

with dashed ofif the they

speed of greyhounds.
one,

them at George banged

and wounded

got away, thoughit was

of the with be

very

devoured by probably

the rest

pack

soon

afterwards.

They

were

in black colour, jet

with long bushy tailstipped

white.

They appeared to

very

well-formed,speedy animals, and in the pink of

condition. As usual had

our so we

built a boma

for the

and G^rge sheep,

to preferred
so

and I

tent

but pitched,
was

"1 Hakim

in sleep the
tent

open,

his bed

a yard or placed we

away

fix)m our

After

we

had eaten

retired to rest, a sentry a few posting

a.m.

yardsaway.
a nd sleep,

At about 2

and George
a

were

aroused

from

startled, considerably by

"1 from yell

Hakim,
their

followed boma
men.

by

sound rushing

as

the

sheepbroke

down

and

amid stampeded,
our

the exdted shouts of the awakened

saw

Bushingout of

we tent, on

in hand, "1 Hakim, rifle

darkness the into peering

his

the left, the tails of his It

shirt,

in the breeze. fluttering onlygarment,

was

that appeared

he and had

and doubtless sleeping peacefully

or

dreaming of home
we provisions

beauty,
left at

maybe
his

of the two
an

boxes of

M'thara,when
upon
.

from agonized whisper awoke

the

smote senti^

ear.

He

and opening instantly,

a

his eyes which

was

full face into the of gazed side of his bed

Uon full-grown

by the standing
a

AYft.mining critically
"1 Hakim, of bed
same on

from him, probably with

the
a

of view. point gastronomical

of

bom rapidity

rolled out longexperience,

side and opposite

his for at the rifle, groped aroused

had

time camp.

utteringthe startled cry which had I and the lion When George appeared,

the

and fled, already

ARRIVAL
we

AT

M'THARA.

293 at

found

El

Hakiin

bemoaning his
he

luck

not

a getting

shot^instead of beingprofoundly that the lion had grateful

not taken him

with him when

men
a

departed.
hours
to

It took

the

coupleof
On

startled the get lion's spoor,

camp,
we

sheep togetheragain.
found

the examining

that it had walked

right throughthe
its way
among

having

threaded apparently carefully bodies of the On

we

the recumbent

sleeping porters.
march the
sent

the next

sheepshowed
a

of signs
men on

so fatigue,

camped early. We report

on us

of couple

to M'thara

to

the attitude of the

and also natives,

to come

back

and meet

with the two

more

boxes. provision
"

On the

following
rather

day

we

once

the negotiated the

"

and just cinder-heap,"

before sundown
forced march.

reached Bamathani

Green

Camp,"
it down

after

a babywater-buck asleep surprised

in the grass,and after a smart it.

to

chase
to El

ran

and

captured

He
make

proudly broughtit
an

Hakim,

who

determined

effort to
a

rear

it.

He and

therefore
a

a extemporized

from feeding-bottle
from his

tumbler

rubber of piece

tubing
The

while surgical case,

a

the ink-fillerof his fountain tube glass and

a

both provided pen

of piece

teat.

littlebeast stupid

did not

well-meant his appreciate It

was

efforts,

refused to suck. however, and absolutely with provided

ua a

eventually
while

meal

by

the combined

effortsof the three of

open,

I held it

still, George forced its mouth

El

Hakim
a

poured the milk

all

drop by drop

down

its throat
not

with
seem

teaspoon,though

during the
care

did i t operation
so

at

gratefulfor the

bestowed lavishly

upon

it. the afternoon shoot another

"

During
-wished
to

Georgeshot
rhino
"

rhinoceros.

I also to

or

two, and

determined

stay in the

Green

Camp

for another

day for that

purpose.

294

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

while El Hakim

and

went Gteorge

on a

with the balk forced march old

"

of

the

safari and the animala overtake them In in

to
on

By making day at
a

I could

the second

our

Ba"GBdo

Camp/'
so

I was addition^
a

anxious to shoot for the

use

few
men

and grantei, until we

were

lay
able

stock of meat

of the

in food M'thara. purchase

the Accordingly,
went

Hakim El morning following

on

and

George
I

I while sallied out on,

intent. sport
two

Crossingthe yards by
the

littlestream made
away my

which

flowed round

sides of the camp,

way

towards the Waso

I reached

hundred Five Nyiro.

"om when "om

camp

the

taken path usually

game
I knew

goingdown

to drink at the river. The

as grantei,

came observation, usually previous

down

at ten

o'clock in the

morning;

so a

at

ten to quarter

I concealed

myselfbehind the trunk of

at full length the upon
as

out thorn tree, stretching myself

a

ground,

most

imcomfortable

position, firmly
some

the

ground was

strewn

with littleknobs
I did venture my

of rock
to remove

embedded loose

in the soil. When

that inconvenienced pieces

a

elbows

and

knees, I

disturbed did not

manner.

few colonies of

they tinyants,which, although

me

crawled all bite,

I had

over

in

most
an

uncomfortable
my

lain there about half

hour, when

was patience

rewarded

of the advance guard of by the sight

the
were

in direction. grantei advancing They steadily army my led by a noble-looking a buck, who displayed nificent mag-

pair of
hesitated whether and concealed, his
as

horns.
to I
come

He
on

was
or

little suspicious, and

I
was

carefully he still, finally conquered kept perfectly

not.

very

and distrust,

once

more

advanced, followed by the

I opportunity,banged

remainder
at him at

of the herd.

Waitingmy
The others

and droppedhim fortyyards, heart.

ran

with

dum-dum and that.

bullet

the through

this way

ME,

G.

H.

WEST

("GEORGE").

RHINOCEROS

SHOT

BY

GEORGE.

(See page

293.)

296
Stood

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

stillin quite
as

an

attitude of

profoundthought ; finallj,

she laid down her

if she had resolved to when

I

sleep,
as

the result of
was

and cogitation^
were

got

up

to

her she

dead.

The horns she

but long, fairly

a

and scratched badly

Her

chipped,
covered

being evidently very old beast.

scars

body

was

with the After my

a

of

numerous

conflictswith others of her kind in with horns the off hacking

our

I succeeded struggle

El Hakim hunting-knife.
axe

havingtaken morning.
I found
to carry

ing onlyremain-

away I

with him

in the

When been sent have shot.

got back

to camp,

five any

men

who
I
a

had

back

by

"1

Hakim
me on

meat

might
The

They

told
met

that El Hakim the road in

had shot the

solitary

elephantthey had
next

morning.
the

reached I stiff after started a march, a nd, early, morning

the

placeat which

the others had

camped
It

on

previous
I

of The remains their fireswere evening.

still hot.

passed
a

the

on body of the elephant

the way.

be to appeared

young
were

bull,and

the

and hysenas of the

vultures between After

a

them

making

short work

carcase.

of couple

hours' halt I resumed

the march, and after another hard

three hours I reached the "BufiGdo Camp," tramp lasting tired out.
a

had had George

slice of luck,as he had secured

on

fine very
were

horns

impalla melamptAs) (JSpyceros I which is, over inches, slightly twenty-eight

obtain.
us

the road.

The

as good as it is possible beUeve, to

awaited great disappointment

here.

On

going to
found

the ant-hillin which I had buried the buffalo horns, we

in spite of the ants, the hysBnas had disinterred and that, them. also and utterly destroyed pairwere My large gone, the other two left

pairsburied with them, there being nothing

a

beyond

few

of splinters

bone.

The

baby water-buck
to feed since

died in the

refused evening, having steadfastly

ARRIVAL

AT

M'THARA.

297
our

its capture, and

meant

to the utmost resisting

of its power

well-

effortsto

helpit. day'smarch
four
we

Duringthe next
had
sent to

met

the
To

men our

whom

we

M'thara

days

before.

immense

satisfaction, theybore the two

our occupied

boxes of
many

had which provisions

were

for thoughts
us we

so

They days. weary

them

about

to

tell

something
had

at natives hostile concerning

M'thara, but

motioned
news,
so

away,

that desiring
our

bad nothing,especially first civilized meal, and

we Ordering halt, a

should

interfere with
our

detract from with

a

enjoyment.

got

to work

screw-driver while exerted himself, oatmeal of meat, When

the tents and in

an

were

erected. being

Bamathani
a

time short incredibly

our

steamingpot of
months tasted before.
some a

awaited porridge that oatmeal

it
was

attention.
as never

After two

tasted

oatmeal

Eamathani finished,

broughtus
a

broiled zebra

and collops,
sauce,

with mustard, pepper, and

a a

bottle of Worcester There

were as a

made they

dish fitfor

monarch.

also wind

biscuits, jam, and

up, tin box
as we we

of of tins couple

and butter,

opened

pound
a

tin of mincemeat, and,

spoon. To
crown our

the passing

round,ate it with
of

a enjoyment,

and cigars

bottle of vermouth for weeks

were
we

and discovered, would

not

inhaled the firstsmoke

have

with anybody. changedplaces At the conclusion of the

news

banquet we
our
men

felt

sufficiently

fortified to hear the

by brought

borsL M'thara.

They
over

were
an

therefore summoned
hour.
we

and

for cross-questioned
was even

The had the

result of the examination and anticipated, sufficed ta

worse

than

change our
assumed
to

"om thoughts
one

attitude they had optimistic

of most

anxious and
this. We

Summed gloomy foreboding.

up,

the situation was

of food a large required quantity

298
for
our

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

round journey There

was,

North
we

and West

Eenia^ which

is

inhabited un-

in ITthara, a famine discovered,

want for failed utterly

had the as, unfortunately, bean-crop

of
in

rain.

There and

was,

on

the other hand,

plenty

of food

Munithu

Zura, as the famine did

course ordinary

not

extend to those
we

districts.In the

of events

should have
we indignation

but boughtfood there,

to

our

amazement
on

and

heard

that

during

our

absence had

the Waso

Nyiro bodi
were now

Dirito and

Bei-Munithu
us,

and turned traitors,

hostile to bitterly food. Their

with to us supply refusing absolutely

of the efiTect

of front had change

bringing

all the other chiefs together

in Korth-East

Eenia, with the

of ITDominuki, single exception conclave alliance formed assembled,

us. against an

and

solemn in had, they defensive

not

ofiTensive and

The
reverse

reasons

for this attitude were

hard to find. Our

in

Embe, and Jamah

Mahomet's
panions com-

followed by the death of Sadi ben Heii and his death,

and

the capture of their guns

in

STDakura, and,
on

the terrible massacre lastly, the road to and

of the bulk of Ismail's men

a

Dhaicho,had occasioned
and deliberations,
of
our men

loss of great
was

prestige,
follow.
in tbe

the native mind prepared

the

for what while had

to

During
Nyiro being
were a

matters

hung
on

balance, one
turned

who
when

deserted

the Waso with

and up,

taxed

by

Bei-Munithu

and declared that the deserter he denied it,

Wasungu

all

dead,havingbeen killed in

Burkethe w ith fight with their guns

now

and neji, and

some

only
Some

few portershad got away and goods,

was were

of the trade colour

retuming

to

M'thara.

lent to his

the by story ance reappearEl Hakim,

six nearly to be
a

in Embe

of the three camels

to belonging
us

whither weeks

theyhad wandered
This
was

from after straying

before.

considered

by

Bei-Munithu

ARRIVAL to opportunity capital

AT

APTHARA.

299

annex

the

numerous

loads

deposited
believe

in ITDominuki's
to entertain the

refused That true Mend, however, charge. he did that saying suggestion,
not

the the

Wasungu

were

of the deserter's story, and dead,in spite

circumstantial

evidence

of

the
to

camels.

He
up,

stated,
even
soon

that he did furthermore,

not intend

givethem
men

if

the
come

Wasungu

were

dead, as other white

an

would

into the country and demand

account
a

of the loads

in his the

charge. Bei-Munithu

then formed

coalition of all
of

petty chiefs of North-East

Kenia, for the purpose

safaris who should

waylaying and massacring any

future endeavour
to
enter

in the which

the

country,

plan to

N'Dominuki From
an

his aid. lend refused to steadfastly

agreement

to

attack

our

supposed surviving Wasungu

an

to another porters,

agreement

to attack the

selves, them-

should
at that.

was theybe alive,

but

and step,

easy

step

Bei-Munithu He

was
was

the evidently
to reported
as

moving

o f spirit the

the combination.

have

said that

Wasungu's bullets did not hurt,and

the Mend
some

he had

been formerly

of the
on

Wasungu, he
the

was
"

supposedto
Even
"

with speak
are

authority
said dead,"

subject.

if the
can

Wasungu

not

this

we wilyold reprobate,

as easily just

take their much the

goods when

return. do they

If

theyare dead, so
soon

and if better;

they

are

not, they

will

be,"he

continued ; and in that of

our

case

the

annexation the o f question

It seemed

goods would
course
a was

have

been

s olved. speedily

that this

decided upon eventually looked all round things

in the

by

the A'ki-

kuyu.

Without

doubt

uncommonly
aspect
situation
we

gloomy, the being

to

only brightspot
and

whole

murky

N'Dominuki's

T he fidelity. unswerving
tact in

firmness great required

handling,
as

wished

get

out

without further

ammunition Snider the fighting,

300

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

almost ezhauBted. being that if

we

On

condderation,we
wonld

determined make
we a

were

to fight^ we compelled

good
knew

of it, and punish the fight

enemy

as

heavilyas

how, otherwise the

districtwould stand An
occurred

next
a

unfortunate safari

coming

into

the

chance. very poor connection with the camels strayed

us

incident
at

in

M^thara, which,
had
was

while

it amused
we

at

the for had

had its serious side also. When time, the Waso

left M'thara who porter,

Nyiro, 1^
his

we

left

an

M'Kamba
to

his injured He

and

unable and

walk, with N'Dominnki

a

retained

gun

half

dozen

for cartridges
some

When protection. the inhabitants offered them

the camels
them brought

into Embe, strayed down

to

of

N'Dominnki
as

and

for sale.

He

them recognized do with

that

and ours,

refused to have

anythingto

them.

Our be

gallant given

M'Eamba,
to up

however, demanded
treated with

they

should

which him, as the Wasungu's representative,

scorn.

proposal
thereupon
man

the Wa'Embe
out brought

The

M'Eamba

his rifleand fired into them,

one shooting

throughthe
obtruded whom who had
to

thigh. The
so

serious side of the

as

now question

inasmuch itself, had

it

was

not
a

an

Embe

man

he

rashlywounded, but
be
our

native of M'thara old N'Dominuki

happened to
to pay
one

standingnear;
cows man

and of

of

and

two

our

sheep in

order

square

the

injured

and

his

Mends indignant

and

relatives! As
we

had heard and also read much

about the excellence

we

of baked
a

foot, elephant's

we

trial. To that end El

Hakim

thought had preserved one

would

give

it

of the

feet of the the best of

was delicacy

he had elephant

shot two

To days previously.

our

this cook to t he alleged knowledge, proper way

to

dig a

hole in the earth and

build

fire in

ARRIVAL

AT

APTHARA.

y"i

it. When foot was

there

was

sufficientquantity of hot ashes,the

the hole in placed among

them^ covered
Bamathani build
were
a was

with up fore therehe foot

earthyand

left for

few
a

hours. hole and

the

instructed to

dig

which fire,

did, and when accordingly

was

ashes

ready the
to

placedinside. It
been

was

disinterred in time
some

for supper,
our

after it had

cooking

but hours, eight

was

intense
It
was

it and disappointment disgust

of the most

quiteuneatable.
after
our

indiarubber-like
on

and consistency,

bluntingmy
efforts to
to cut
carve

hunting-knife
it,we
gave

the

knuckle-bones
as a

in

it up
an

bad

job.

I tried
no

it

afterwards it worth
that

with

axe,

but

could

make

on impression

We

concluded

the axe bounced as mentioning, it was not cooked, sufficiently

no we

off. and

determined

that there should be t hat always supposing

such mistake in

our

next

attempt
"

another elephant. caught their appearance

Some
the

smart

showers of rain made did not tend to

during
years,

which evening,

improve the

condition

of the and
we

rahi for three no sheep. They had experienced

were

of doubtful the effectof the wet very

on

and

the

attendant cold Our

to
our

their constitutions. would calculated, On the take

us on right

next

march, we

old camp and

a

at M'thara.

following morning,
a

after two
As
we were

haK

hours' tramp, we another

move

halted for breakfast. terrific storm thunderof time drenched shelter under the it

for preparing in and on,

a

came

short space very took

everybody and
trees

We everjrthing.
torrents blinding

"om
soon

the

of rain,hoping that the

an

would and
to

cease.
we

It did endured and

nothingof
it for camp
was over

kind, however,
we

after

had

hour

decided
of the

put up

the tents

for the remainder

a

the day. Gretting

tents erected

terrible task.

They

302

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

were

soddng
a

wet

and

and heavyas lead,

storm

the violent

which

Hie aooompanied
most

caused them to thiash and The rain

fls^

about in than into

our a

aggravating way.
soon

poured harder
the backs of
a manner we we

and ever,

converted the surfeu^eof the The

water

ground

filthy bog.
most

diibUed
our an

down
in

necks and up the sleeves of After exasperating.

coats

found

hour's hard

work

and trenches tents both got up

dug

round them ; and then, and dropped,

the
sun

of course, the rain ceased,the wind

from appeared
was,
we

behind the clouds and shone

to think of
were.

It brilliantly.

however, too late

where stopped
we

making

another start, so

It rained hard

the made

the several of and nighty

sheepdied.
our

At

againduring we daylight
and camp,
had the

another attempt to reach

an

old ITthara thorn forest we

our

after

hour's tramp
once

throughthe

satisfactionof

more

emergingupon
by
masses

old

campingthan

ground.

It was

and rather more justas windy,

was

swampy

before,but it
most vegetation

surrounded
to grateful

of restful green after the

the

senses

blinding

deserts and arid wastes

of the Waso

Nyiro.

304
an

THROUGH ear, but

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

showed nothing
were

well up

a aliot, enoughto justify

thoughwe
After
a

well within twenty

yardsof our
we

quarry.
a

long and breathless wait

came

held

whispered
we

and consultation, have perhaps

a

to

the conclusion that

might

better chance from the

had

side. Leaving opposite

the native who

warned

us

of their presence

safely

ensconced in the fork of a thorn tree to watch the elephants, we,

in succeeded Bamathani, accompanied by circumnavigatin

them, beingluckyenough

to reach

the other side without

small
over

being winded.
which of top The
we

There
were

we

found able to

"om anthill, the

the

see

undergrowth.
150

elephants They
a

were

then in

plain sightabout
of them
a

yards

distant.

were

both bulls, one

old magnificent other

was
a

fellow with

of tusks. pair large very

The

smaller rather with ivories. The old bull animal, younger I saw in the thorn forest before, I had at not the one as was
his tusks first supposed,

of being
not
so

different shape, being

In of spite

and but thinner, longer,

El

discoloured.
were

Hakim's

of knowledge
to

woodcraft,we

unable to thick and

get any
solid. We would
camp,

nearer

them, the bush

some
now was

being too
between

for therefore, waited,

as closer,

time, hoping they

us

come

they

were

and

the

and

what

little breeze
on

was stirring
we

blowing
so nearer

from the camp directly

on

to them ; and
come

calculated that

it scenting

they would
we

down

wind, and

to the
seem

where spot the

we

concealed. lay

However, they did

not

to mind

of the proximity camp,

we

even although,

from

where

were,

could

hear distinctly

the

men

talking.
For
move, two
or

hours

by

the watch

we a

waited, not daringto

to venturing

above speak

whisper. At last
back to camp

we

sent Bamathani

by

circuitous route

to call

ELEPHANT
out

HUNT

AND

ATTACK

ON

MUNITHU. to

305

the men,

with instructions that

on

they were
on

surround
we

the

elephants
our

that side except every

which

had

taken up

in the noises and, position, by making slight

to drive them
men

bush, endeavour
These alarm

down gently

in

our

direction.
our

instructions the the

carried out; but to

a

great
should

showed elephants
on

break to disposition side. that Fearing

we

through practice, yards.

the line of beaters lose them took

a

the camp

usual El his to Hakim, altogether, contrary

shot at the ! went

big bull at
and '577,
a

littleover

hundred

Bang
way

the

crashed its bullet steel-tipped

into the
our

shoulder. elephant's followed direction,

chargedin
when turned

within

yards the forty

left

Turning but his companion; by barrel spoke,and they

forest to
our

he instantly,

the and, smashing through aside,

left,

followed by another shot from El Hakim, which disappeared,

caught the
set

smaller

somewhere elephant

in the stem.
at first

We
stripped out-

off at top
us,

in their speed

wake, but
were

they

though their tracks

on

in the v isible plainly

soft earth, and at intervals

of

the

path we

blood

The

stricken

elephant was
we going, we were

tinyflecks bleeding evidently

saw

internally.
At

the end of

an

hour's hard

could
once

see

by the

freshness of the
dLoser
to

that footprints

more

getting

them.

It therefore behoved
an

us

to

proceed with
in

as great caution,

old bull

who elephant it
so

has been wounded

is apt to make the ardour of

most

himself

if unpleasant

happens that

hunter t he pursuit

it all and is at careless, gets find the

on a bush,to disconcerting, rounding

elephant's
we

head
were

when

one

to expected

see we

his tail.

Suddenly,as

creeping silently along,

from apparently rage,

heard

shrill scream quick

some

of

the other side of

bushes

twenty yards away.

wounded the Thinking

beast was^bout
X

3o6
to

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.
'

the behind aside and of we the out chaige, hopped path under bushes with a celerity be to acyacent acquired only

similar circumstances. It was"

on

however^a false alarm,

saw

aa,

round peering in the

the bushes,we
a

both

standing elephants

jungleabout
as

hundred

looking yards distant,

at

us.

As
once

soon

we

made

move

more

into the bush, with

stream

they turned and plunged in hot pursuit.Thay, us

that flowed bush the through
we

crossed a small however,

a

few hundred

yardsfarther
we

and on,

When disappeared.
so

reached the stream

found
as

it to be

swollen We

by

the

few days' rain previous returned to camp follow the and

to be unfordabla

therefore others to when

Barri despatched
to send word

and two

and elephants,
more.

back

to camp

once theystopped

On

our

return

we

found

K'Dominuki

in camp.
we were

He

greeted

us

with
see

every

and signof pleasure,

just as
was

pleasedto
of the very

him, as his conduct duringour

absence
as a

Mend.

We

him and we regarded order, highest had a longtalk with him, and he
we

real very

confirmed the

news unpleasant

had heard about the

of in food scarcity

MUhara

and the hostile attitude of Bei-Munithu.

a

Just before dusk effectthat the two

were
now

Barri from report

came

to hand
a

to the

in round after elephants, working camp.

we

circle^

not
an

far from

Once

more

we

set out, and

after half
were

hour's walk

reached the

wliere place

they
we

reportedto be resting. Creepingstealthily up,

that the

found

big bull had

on

succumbed

to his

and injuries,

laystretched out
much very
on

his side

other The dead. quite

a standing

elephant,
bag
the

the alert, was

little way
out to

off in the

set bush, and Georgeand I immediately

and try

him.

He

was,

however, much

too wary, and aided

by

ELEPHANT

HUNT

AND

ATTACK

ON

MUNITHU.

307

darkness gathering

succeeded
to camp

in

eludingus hope

in the thick that he would

bush,
return

so

we

returned

in the

to his dead companion. duringthe night

Early next

and morning, therefore, George

but he elephant,
out
we was

I set out

in

search of the other

nowhere

to be seen,

cleared having evidently the dead

a

of the districtfor good

went to the

during
the
was as

night. After

breakfast

where spot

in order lay, elephant I

to

chop out
him

the

ivory. He
the

beast. magnificent

measured

with

the tape
ments measure:
"

and the following as are accurately possible, which I down jotted

in my
two

notebook at the time

The distance between

in the plantedvertically spears

ground,one
which

in

line with the sole of the foot and the other

as as

the shoulder against

may

he his

lay,measured
From height.

10 feet 8

inches,

be taken

the forehead to

the root of the tailthe tape marked the he girth measured

13 feet 3 inches. Bound

18 feet 8 inches ; while the circumference 4 feet 8

of each fore foot totalled up

on

inches, though,
in feet 5 fully

the measuring

I found they were tracks,

an circumference,

increase due to the of weight

65

the of foot expansion animal. The tusks

under

the

enormous

the

weighed

75 lbs. and
a

lbs.
18

the respectively, inches in

tusk lighter
off

having had
On

pieceabout

broken length

from the end. h im cutting up

we

found the steelcore

of

577 bullet
been

in his chest,which
there

might,from
was

its appearance, have

same

for years.

It

of

the precisely
as

pattern as

those used
who I had

by

El

Hakim, and

Mr. Neumann, the

onlyman
as

shot
use
a

at elephants

M'thara
we

did not, so far before,

came

know,

steel

core

bullets
had

to

the conclusion
some

that it was

bullet which
El Hakim

been
same

fired

two

years

by previously

at the

which had elephant, got

3o8 away
or

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

after beiDg wounded. in elephants

El Hakim

said he had

lost

"me

two

after wcmnding this bush about that time,

them. The bush round It shooting. themselves successful is North Eenia and is very bad for

elephant-

thick terribly

wild. very

and the elephants leafy, nnNeumann, after a fortnight's became place,

hunting in this
was

hearte disaltogether
to

trialof the district, came and, after a thorough the conclusion that he and gave up the task i n reading Mark from
an as

and his time wasting

was

strength,
an

I hopeless.
''

much

interested in
"

Twain's

More

Tramps Abroad
of his

extract

Gordon

Cumming's
he

account

with experiences It is such

a

which elephant

in that book. gives

modem in and is such the contrast to account, quaint methods here:

''
"

sporting
it inserting

that I make and ideas,

no

for apology

Having planted
caused
a

bullet in the shoulder-bone the

of

an

a nd elephant,

agonizedcreature
brew to proceeded

to
some

lean

for

support against
refreshed Having spasms and

tree, I

coffee.

of observations the myself, taking

elephant's

between writhings
on

the

I sips, resolved to make

experiments
skulL
movement

vulnerable

and points,

approaching very

its of bullets different I several at fired enormous parts near,

He

the shots by a salaam-like only acknowledged of his trunk,with the pointof which he gently with
to
a

touched

the wounds

and striking
was

action. peculiar t he prolonging

and Surprised

shocked

find I

only

which of the noble beast, suffering

bore its trialswith such with proceeding

on

I resolved finish the to dignified composure, all

and possible despatch,

fire opened accordingly

him

from the leftside. with the

Aiming

at the shoulder I firedsix shots must

which rifle, two-grooved

have

eventually

ELEPHANT

HUNT

AND

ATTACK

ON

MUNITHU.

309

proved mortal,after which

with

I firedsix shots at the

now

same

part

the Dutch

six-potmder. Largetears

trickled down

"rom

his eyes, which he

his colossal slowlyshut and opened,

firame

and quivered convulsively^

falling

on

his

side he

expired."
The
next

day the

bulk

of the

men

engagedin cutting up
meat

the

carcase

of the

busily the elephant, slicing

were sun or

still

into

which strips,
we

in dried the they

were
men

in the smoke

of their fires. As decided to send

a

in need of badly
to Munithu

food,we grain

of party
to

and Zura to try to

of loads remaining

and also buy food, trade

as

bringback the few

was

in Bei-Munithu's stiU goods

as

Our possession.

purpose,

much

anything,

to test the

natives of the temper that he had heard treacherous his put

and there, of
our

to see whether

now Bei-Munithu,

safe arrival, was

still determined

to

into execution. plans

In the
meat.
a

mean

time the

men

were

the elephant busy gorging MVaniki

little M'kamba
was

boy

named

composed
named lady

which song,

with great success sung had others,

our on

by
the

who, with many Kinyala,

their husbands deserting

day previous
cases

their fortrmes those of to joined and

in many porters,
in lirthara that

homes

they

might

follow the
a

safari to

which, Nairobi,
of city
a

to these poor

was creatures,

vast and

distant had

beyond splendour
to allow
''

their wildest dreams.

any
some women

Jumbi but in

strictorders not
our

in camp,

spiteof

frequent
and

drives

"

of them

managed

to conceal themselves

escaped
the

the

generalclearance.
and

herself to attached Einyala

as a

modest
some

Bamathani, and respectable

"

she

possessed
"

personal charms
no

to

the mind

of

native

^that

individual made

strenuous veiy

Well,Eanyala objections.
''

I the have sang song

it and of, spoken already

caughton

"

3IO

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA^LAND.

and, tremendously;
our ears

as

consequence,

it

was

dinned

into

and day

night. It ran
SOKO
OF

thus

"

EiNTALA.

(5o2o)
(Omnet) (iSbfo)

''

Wasanga
Kwenda Kwani Kwa

kwenda

wapi?

kwa BendflL kwa BendOi ?

kwenda

(OmiMf)

n'gamia. Wasanga wa'ntaka n*gam!a ; Wasunga wa'ntaka kondo ya maftita; Hoko kwa Bendili n'yamatele-tele.*'

sababii ya

Tbanblation. ? men going {8M) to the of the RendilL are going place They (OfTineff) of tiieBendili? \boLo) Why do theygo to the place tiie camels. of Becaase (Omnes)
'*

Where

are

the white

The white

men men

want want

camels ;

The white There in the

fat-tailed sheep ; Bendili is very mach

meat."

of the place

The above is a

with specimen,

somewhat

free translation,

of the half song, half recitative, so dear to the native heart. It is generally and impromptu,
contains
on

at times

certain

dry humour

and

caustic comment

current

events

that is

quite unexpected.
that this Thinking another trialof baked
to be

of opportunity good making I caused a large hole foot, elephant's

was a

in dug the centre

of the camp, and

of party

men

were

sent into the forest to

an arrived,

sufficient fueL gather firewas

When

the fuel All

immense
in

kindled in the hole.

were

day

long
With
and

it

burnt,and

the

eveningwe

rewarded

by the

of a glowingpitfilledto sight much trouble

was

the brim with red-hot ashes.

(the foot weighed nearly forty pounds,

very

the furnace

hot)we

placed the bulky tit-bit

over

in the

a largebonfire ashes,and then, building

it, we

312

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

stiQ for let and it cook chillies, bonis, strong gently twenty

addingwater
or
'*

when

necessary.

Serve

with manioc hot,

flour

biscuit separately. grated KB.

"

This dish

and onlyrequire keeps several days,

re-warming."
So far, so
but good;
as
our we

Mend

N'Dominuki
have been

did not able to

keep

general store where

have

might
even

the purchase
it would
not

few onions, thyme, and

chillies, etc., required,

had
we

helpedus

much

possessed
the

this recipe at the time. The weather

now

the for changedconsiderably worse,

dear, sunny weather of the Waso fine,

sucoeeded Nyirobeing
two nearly

by heavyrains and cold winds.

months in consequence
but ;

These rains were

were

and the inhabitants of M'thara late,

half

starving

they

came

now

with

vengeance,

though
Day
whom

theywere
after the
we

too
we

late to do any

good to

the bean

crop.

day

endured
twos and

which downpour, steady

the Of night.

killed off
men

sheep by

threes every

had sent to

buy

food in

Munithu, half returned

Bei-Munithu than

two

days

later.
any

They reportedthat
more

had refused to sell

he had food, though

and he had also plenty, F more, urtherpossession. the during

refused to

in his loads the still giveup

he had

secretly planned
to death.
a

to

attack them

and them night put

They had,however, received

so

timelywarningfrom
of them Zura
to

and Mendly native,

escaped ; some going on

had been
to

and back to coming us,

see

the remainder

how

matters

stood at that

place.
He
one

A strangeSwahili
of Dr.

them. accompanied had

been

Eolb's He
we

and porters, asked

left behind, sick,at

to Nairobi

Munithu. which us,

to return permission

with
news

He readily granted. and hostility,

also confirmed

the

of Bei-Mimithu's

his statements

threw

light

ELEPHANT

HUNT

AND

A TTA

CK

ON

MUNITHU.

313

on

several little matters

more

which

had

puzzled us.

It

now

seemed

than

G'nainu of the whole that the probable that old rascal in

affidr had
with the
were we so

been

planned by

conjunction

which would Wa'gnainu,

for completelyprepared

those why people explain

us on our

the

morning when
and goods ;
we

went

into their country to demand

trade

to what why they opened the attack without listening

had to say. This Swahili

or was a

man, peculiar-looking
nose

as

at some
a

time

other the end of his

had been bitten off by

hy"na.
was

The voracious brute had

with sleeping tried to and cries,

he where dashed to actually up round

a

other
him

men

fire, and, seizing him, had

drag

away.

His

companions awoke

at

his

drove

his assailant off with

fire-brands. When

the

hysenaseized him, it had bitten his face and taken the

nose

end of his

clean off. When

rescued,he searched for

on

and found the with

a

it and, sticking piece, which lengthof hair or fibre,

he

he secured it again, passedover it and

a nd pieceslipped

tied at the back of his head ; however, the

finally grew
while place,

on

to his face
one

an

inch to the left of its proper

so that he had position,

and in its right nostril complete

his cheek. of out apparently

the other grew

He
be

stillkept the induced united

to to

of piece fibre tied round

and could it,

nose
was

not

remove

it, though the piece of

"1 Hakim

firmly
an

his cheek.

offered to

perform

in plastic and it operation replace surgery but he steadfastly and position, refused,
press

in its

rightful
did not

El Hakim
to be
a

the

point. This

man

turned out

very
on

good
our

and rendered valuable service in drover, march down after M 'thara. leaving country

that way

On

the 18th October, after six the rain ceased for

a

days'continuous

pour, downthe

couple of days. Thirtyof

314

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.
as sick, very

had sheep

sucomnbed,and the others

of them
were

were

nnmber large

from suffering
As
sent

the effects of had

gone
m^i on

the unaccustomed
to Zura to
see

exposure.
we returned,

the

men

who

had not what had

Jumbi We
not

with several
were

become
we

of them. could

very

anxious

to leave

M'thara^but
a

venture

round
game
to smell

West

Eenia
be

without

supply of food
camp

in

hand, as

mig^t
very

scarce.
as a

The

alreadycommenced
soddened the
meat

badly,
it into

the rain had

earth and

converted smoke

bog.
was

The

quantityof

drying in the

of the fires relished

six already
men,
we

and old, days ourselves found

thou^
the

it

was

by

the

e"9uvia

offensive.

During our
camp

stay large numbers

to cure

of natives

came

into

for medicine

the ulcers caused

a

by ''chiggers.
flea whidi
or

The

is {PuUx penetrans) chigger the selecting

as a

of species

is

in the habit of

sole of the foot

the flesh

under

the toe-nails the

place of residence.

Once

safely

ensconced under

to skin,the female chiggerproceeds

are

lay largenumbers
of
a a

of eggs, which size of

a

in the form disposed

round

bag,the

pea.

The

inritationproduces larvse appear.

of to
see

troublesome

amidst which the young ulcer, had

Some
toes

of the natives of M'thara

lost many

their the

through these pests. It

for treatment

was

sad especially

little children with their feet

into brought camp

who were lacerated, horribly mothers. by their despairing

Under

El

Hakim's

I made direction,

ointment

by

and iodoform mixing this

was

largequantityof add boric with powdered

a

hippofat,and
their trouble
we

the sufferers dispensed freely among of for any us amply repaying expressions gratitude incurred in them. relieving
on one

had myself

been

f or three weeks crippled

occasion

and by chiggers,

ELEPHANT

HUNT

AND

A TTA

CK

ON

MUNITHU.

315

was

therefore in

to positioii

feel for the

unfortunate

wretches. An
one

native blacksmith, or came ^'elkonono/'

we us

into camp

day,and

him got

to manufacture
we

few knives and

took
a

ornaments

for

firom iron which

a

provided.He
his His tools
an

up

his quarters, togetherwith

we

coupleof

in wives,
were

shelter which
very

had

built for the mules. of

a

merely simple, consisting

a

flat stone

for

anvil,

and

of piece round

bar

iron, 1^ inches in diameter and

one

about 8 inches in
formed

flattened at length, slightly He also

a possessed

end, which
of pair

his hammer.

crude very

iron

pincers.
which forge,
was

His hole

fed with

was charcoal,

formed

by

in the

ground,into which
a

the

air

was

forced from The bellows

at one

bellows

through
a

short

pipe of baked
a

day.

consisted of end.
flat

with coupleof goatskins

was

claynozzle

The

other end

the sides open, which small

beingsewn

to two

piecesof wood,

to

straps were

attached.

One

of the blacksmith's wives

thrust her

fingers through
same

these straps, and, opening her hand

her raising
was

and at the

time

arm,

she filledthe

with air. The hand goatskin

a

then closed and the stroke of the

goatskinsharply compressed by

downward
was

and the air contained forearm,

in it

driven out it
was a

of the nozzle
so

which She

and inserted, bellows with

through the clay pipe into into the glowing charcoal.

each hand thus alternately,

worked
an

providing
Our
" ''

almost continuous
"

draught.
and toiled away for three

elkonono
mom

set to work

days firom rosy

time We
to
our

till dewy eve,"and at the end of that

two

had manufactured asked him

knives
not
''

and

couple of

ments. orna-

if it was

rather slow work, and

true I have not

h e great disgust

remarked, Yes, it is

3i6 made

THROUGH

KIKUYU
"

TO

GALLA-LAND.
"

much

for you, but

"

I have (proudly)

made

knives

for all your children !

On

inquiry
or

we

found

that whenever
"

our
"

backs

were

the had to turned, our.porters gone

a

elkonono

either to have
done
ten
we

knife made
more

and repaired, for them

and he

as

result he had

times
were

work

than he had for us,

was

thou^

paying him

using

our

material

Our

saying ignorance, simple "elkonono," however, professed that he thoughtthat in doing these little jobs for ''our not which or he was children might us might serving ;
"

have A

been the trutL

from deputation

the

Wa-Chanjei
came

came

into camp
a

on

the 17th of October.

but visit,
to really
see

They
how in
were our

on ostensibly

friendly
they had
to
selves, our-

the land
camp,

lay.

After

spent

an

hour

or

two
we

came they evidently

the conclusion that and On

our

take to able quite

care

of

and politely

withdrew. silently
a

the 19th of October the rain ceased for satisfaction. and

to while,

immense

During
and He
was

the

morning

Jumbi
of the
our

returned from Munithu

men.

Zura with the remainder demanded

met
an

He

had

seen

Bei-Munithu

that
an

loads should be refasaL

In

given to him.
the

by

insolent

Bei-Munithu addition,
to

sent

and insulting the

threatening message
themselves he would Jumbi both
came

effect that "Ji

Wasungu

to the

door of his house with their guns,

"

not

giveup
and

the loads !

also

that food reported

was

in plentiful extremely
of

Munithu

M'thara, but the inhabitants

instructions from

those

actingunder places,
The situation held
was a

their chiefs, point

blank refused to sell us any.

now

serious,and

after dinner that

was

evening we

consultation to decide what

to be

ORNAMENTS

WORNi

BY

A'KIKUYU

AVOMEN.

1, 2, 3, 4. I^eather belts onianiented

with

beails aud

cowrie "hell".

6, 7, 8. Girdles .'", 11, 12, 13, 11. Necklaces 15, 16. Amilcts

of iron chain

and

beadwork. beadwork.

9, 10. Collars of iron chain and

of twisted

iron, brass and copper

wire,with pcnl;int chain.

of thick brass wire.

3i8

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

ballet leaden about the sise of spherical and

a

an

marble, ordinary
was a

donUe-banelled
to ap
a

gun

using them

veiy

ugly

weapon We

of hnndied yards. ooa^de tillsundown, and

poshed on

camped

at

distance needed

from Bei-Munithu's all our

turned in and village,

morrow.

as early,

we

for the energy

CHAPTER

XIX.

FIGBT

AT

MUNITHU

AND

DEFABTUEE

FROM

ItTEABA.

Attack

on

Bei-Manithn*8
return

village ^Poisoned
"

arrows

"

^The

baming

of the
"

"iUage" The Earanjm

with
"

march
"

"

^Determined
to

pursait of the A*kikuyu

M'thara

George's fall
"

Retom
remorse"

the

Gamp"Interview
M'thaia
A
"

Bd-Mnnithn
"

His
"

Departure from
"

^Bam lion
"

"

Hyaenas

^A

lioness

^Bad

country

^Whistling

trees"

creasing In-

altitude"

Zebra.

Ak
most

hour

before

sxmrise

we

arose,

and, giving the

their ammunition

men

the
to the

preciseinstructions
and

to

husband
to

utmost

leave

any

shooting
we

George
on

and
to

myself

should

it

become The
of up

necessary,
moment
a

marched

Bei-Munithu's
it stood
a on

village.
summit

we

where it, sighted rushed forward with

the

hill, we
the

cheer, and,
in

swarming
into

side before

of

the the

hill, we

succeeded knew shot and food made them

to
to

getting
was

the

village
It
was

inhabitants
a

what

happening.
natives

captured without
at to
or

being fired,the
into
as

fleeing out
the
men

the

other
as

end much
me

the

bush.

Instructing
cany, I took
our

collect with

they could
for the huts
soon

three
were

four

and

where had
hut.

goods
loads

stored.
I

Breaking

open,

we

the

out, and

then
was

proceeded
nowhere

Bei-Munithu's be of all
seen.

Bei-Munithu his hut in

some

himself
I

On

searching
stowed
to

found
comers,
were

large quantity
I
was

our

goods

away

odd

and
a

not

at

surprised

find that

of them

portion of

the

goods which

319

320
were

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

have tx) supposed

been

stolen from

Bei-Munitlin's

chargeby the
had
an

in which and Wa'gnainu,

that old arch-traitor

fiscated promptlyconwas

evidently gone
old treasured

shares.

I also fonnd and

which musket^ muzzle-loading

among

his

most

possessions.
the
a men

By
trade

this time, as
and goods

had

collected all

our

loads of the
mand com-

also

I gave few loads of food,

to retire. As I did so the

arrows

phwit!
a

of ! phwit

poisoned ground.

aroused

our

and attention,

few of the

feathered tiny
the

shafts feU into the

It
us a was

and stuck village

in quivering

that the evident very without

a

A'kikuyu did
.

not intend to let

get away

The struggle.
a we

men

had also collected

few head of cattleand

as

number large

of

and sheep

goats ;

and

it seemed
a

that

should have to
and make it,

I determined fight,

to make
we we were were

of ruimingfight
so

it a
a

good

one

while

about it, and

teach the enemy

lesson, though

for want sadlyhandicapped I had

of Snider ammunition.

When the

got my

I firstset fire to little force together,

the formed them outside. As and then village, up enemy

most

would

harass likely

our

I took rear,

the

reaiguard
at the

in command (reoige myself, putting with the loads and the

same

of the bulk of the men,

I asked him

capturedstock.
men

time to

see

that the

did not fire a shot tillit was

absolutely necessary.
of guard
our

Barri,the Somali, took the advance

little column.
the smoke of the and burning village

By this time
cries of the

the

inhabitants fugitive the

manner on

had

aroused

the whole

and from country-side,

in which

the war-cries discovered littleforce

to

resounded that
we

over

hill and
in for
a

dale

we every side,

were

rather

time. rough

Our

therefore moved

off in the order described at ten minutes

return

in the morning, the on eight

march

to M'thara.

FIGHT

AT

MUNITHU.

yii

The scattered

first hour's inarch took the villages,

us

through a
of which

number fled
on

of
our

inhabitants

and approach
our

force which threatened joinedthe eyer-growing

rear.

The

villages

were

built in the midst

of extensive

banana

and plantations,

it was

here that the firstsymptoms themselves. A number of

of serious

manifested opposition

warriors concealed among

OS

the bananas

commenced

to pepper

with

arrows poisoned

at very short range,

were

none nately an arrow

of the

men

hit.

One

bold

though fortu" warrior let fly

He did

at

at Greorge

not more

than

and then, y ards, thirty

a

catching my
not

he subsided behind eye, the

banana tree. of
a

take into account he must

my

penetrative power
a

*303,and I
indeed

think when

have

been

very

native surprised

bullet passed the through let

an fly

pulpy stem of the banana.

was

Another and

arrow
an

at the

mule, which

beingled,
with the

missed

her

by

inch.

Oeorge caughthim
was

20-bore,droppinghim, and then, swinginground, stopped

another adventurous warrior who

creeping up
this
on

to him

with the other barrel, to the native's intense discomfiture. After

on a

littlemore

of light skirmishing
a

description comingout
arrows

the route,we
were

reached

small

and clearing,
a

into the open

with cordially greeted of the enemy A the

we

shower of

from
on a

large number
side. opposite
on

concealed in the bush

our men

the

smart

fosillade firom

put
tion recep-

check temporary

of this informal proceedings continued

our

committee, and

advance.

Another
to make

his person in order who recklessly warrior, exposed remarks insulting with
a

with greater effect, retired

precipitately
he
a

much

better idea of the

of projectiles than theory received

had hitherto ball in the

and another who possessed ;

at 200

spherical

1^

fiN)m ceased to take any Gleorge, yards After proceedings. this

further interest in the

interchange
Y

3aa

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO out

GALLA-LAND.

the enemy of civilities allowed

in
us

kept

of range for awhUe, of the banana

and

to cross

the remainder

plantations

thick bosh the into and safety,

were

on

the other side ; however,

they

and reinforcements merely gathering

preparingto
''

attack in earnest. It column

I being,

that axiom of warfiEure an believe,

a

reizeating
ben Selim

should resemble

a nd its scorpion cany

its in sting

I picked out Besarse ben Shokar and Asmani tail,"

as

beingtwo

of the coolest men,

and

with aboy together they,

named formed
men,

and binoculars, who carried my cartridge-bag Eoranja,

my

with rearguard. George,

the main

body

of tl^
their

had his hands full in

them firing preventing away then

few

at the scenery, and cartridges

"

throwingdown
would have

their

loads and

which bolting a proceeding and

resulted

in immediate

disaster. overwhelming tried several

our

When

we

got into the thick bush the enemy

was as

times to rush us, but the bush

as it was theirs,

much
to use
was

in

favour

as

too

thick for them

I

their arrows,

for

which Once

circumstance providential
or

devoutlythankful.
openly
two to rush my

twice

some

of the bolder

advanced spirits

along the rearward

men

path
cut

in the endeavour
us

and

and myself, weapon

o"^ but the Lee-Metford circumstances,and

enemy
were

is

beautiful abandoned

under

such The

they
their
it

the attempt. in numbers, and

increasi constantly

the noise tenifia

they made
I think

with

and shouting
to

war-cries

was

they did

keep their courage They soon afterwards

but is it terrible waste a up,

concentrated in force on
we

of breath. flanks and

our

rear

and tried another

rush,but

were

able

by judicious
of which

to keep them shooting

firom getting too close.

a

The bush
was a

now

ended in On

at the bottom ravine,

small stream.

the

bank opposite

of the sta:eam

FIGHT

AT

MUNITHU.

3^3

was

the

edge of

the thick forest which which extended hour's

as

I have
as

preyionsly
space While

mentioned^ and
called

far

the open
onu

Earanjniyan
two

journey further
men

the George superintended

I and my
men a

of the crossing

and animals,
at
a

down squatted hundred

in the bush

turn

in

the

about path,

in yards the rear, and

a prepared a

for surprise unmelodious that

the enemy.

They

were

howling in
of piece

most
us

key,and between coming

to

the howls
a

theyinformed
news

they were
to
me

to kill us,

which

seemed

be

under quite superfluous the

the circumstances; that th^re

was

they
were

added

information interesting
were

they

ahead of going ambush

us.

us

into the wood, and

going
their

to

I had

already guessedthat
an

such

but I determined that such intention,

awkward Our
men

situation in their

should
turn not

not

occur

if I could

prevent it

if inquired why, theywere

come

coming

to kill us, did

they
that

and

carry

out

their intention?

It appears

these

exchanges of repartee are

childish. The
"

of the ceremonial part

to
me

of

though at Aldkuyu warfare,

very enemy Your mwaka," literally, that say

the time it seemed then

to be

shouted,''Besarse kutire
no

bullets have
"

fire;

"

meaning to they
they

theydid

not hurt
to

Bei-Munithu's teaching. evidently and

an see,''

They

were

asked

''come

invitation

accepted. My
were were

little ambush

worked
I

and perfectly,

within twenty

yardswhen

fire. Two opened

of them

put

and out of action at the first discharge,

a

the others

retr^ted in disorder, havingleamt

A

wholesome
me,

lesson.
me informing

message

firom
men

Oeorge then
animals

reached
now

that all the

and

were
as

across safely
across

the

stream,
in my

so

I followed him.
some

Just

got
had

the stream

turn,

of the enemy,

who

crossed

higher up,
so

made

another rush,one

of the most

theyhad dangerous

324

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

far

this close time enough They attempted. got

of which

to throw my

one spears,

kQled

an

nnfortooate goat. I used

more

and George his gun, and theyonce revolyer, One

arrow

retired.
an

of the

A'kikuyu who
of
our

threw

spear

was

shot with
a

by

one

Wakamba^

who

carried

bow

and

arrows

which

he had found in Bei-Mnnithu's

arm was

village.Tlie
of

Ifkikuyu's
the

stilluplifted in the act

man's
arrow

throwing halfway
of butter.

the spear when

our

caughthim

in the side oi
went

under the armpit. The light arrow diesty

as

chest his through

If I had not
seen

easily

as

if he had been made

I should have credited it m]r8elf l2ieir not " such

tiny arrows
the stream

with
we were

penetrative power.
think it

After

crosflii
be

beyond the boundaryof

not

the Munithu
we

and I did district^ followed any

probablethat

should

these peopledo not as a rule go as further, but in this case I was into the territoiy of another tribe; mistaken.

During
two

our

march

through the forest theymade

the

one

or

abortive attempts to dose with us, but

contented finally

themselves with what

was

and,between howling,
to us

howls, threatening
to

they would do
my

when

theygot us
of

EaranjuL

It
we

intention to try to reach

a

diat so Earanjui first,

might have

reasonable chance
us.

i t crossing before the

a nd doing, we enemy when the were aoross warriors, leading halfway forsaking of the forest, into the open about out the cover trooped
we

surrounded

This

succeeded in

300

yards away.

Asmani

and

Besarse,for whose
behind

conduct
in

I have

waited nothingbut praise,

so

to assist me

the A'kikuyu, and delaying

men
on

enablingQeoige with
cover

the

and cattle to

get across

and into the

of tiie forest

the other side. One of the enemy, bolder than the others,
on an

climbed

anthill 70

yardsdistant from

and danced me,

326
to

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

and bidding the boy Eoranja go Chanjai, with Aamani the

to

on a

with

them,

I settled down

and

Besarse in

last despenite

endeavour

to turn

My plan was
trust to my

pnisnit. in longexpend my twenty cartridges

and hurryalongafter George, After the firstshot
man or

then rifle and practice, range revolver

en

rotUe.

two

found the range, and

as

dropped one

at 300

and then, yards,

his

I wounded scattered, companions

was

another at 500
as

yards.
of

The

result

extremely gratifying,
have been
cover

the whole
a

body of
in the

the enemy, and there must

at least

thousand

them, then took

grass. I breathed

and
once
a

on grovelled

their "ceB

freely
Soon

more,

as

I felt that I had

rose

got

the enemy

in hand.

few of them of them

to t^eir feet so, and

onoe

I b ut waited tillmost again,

more

had done

started in with the rifle. Down clockwork. Asmani

they all went

Besarse

againas
with the

as regularly

and

shook

the a t laughter which plain,

and figures,
as disappear one

sight. It
moment
on

really
would

was

too ridiculous to see

be covered with fierce black of

a

then
one

the sound and

shot the whole be

seen

crowd

man,

would nothing

but the

yeUow tint of the wavinggrass.

After
an

of expenditure
to come

ten

in cartridges this manner

the

seemed A'kikujru
that

to their senses^ and

shouted they but present,"

they

"

did not

know

the

Wasungu

were

they now

added their and mistake, acknowledged

sometiiing
the
ornament.

to the effect that

riflesof the Without

they were Wasungu were

now

quite convinced that

made
men

not two

for solely hurried

on

I and replying, my
soon

in

George's

wake, and

came
so

up

with
we

him.

I found

that he had

left, cartridges forty

of

that

had stilla reasonable chance

b ack to getting camp. We

were

not attacked in the second belt of

and forest,

on

FIGHT

AT

MUNITHU.

327 to
our

the reaching next that the natives

open

space

we

found

infinite rdief
few
out

pursuithad
We

almost and those

ceased; only a entirely

following us,

taking good care

to
came

keep
out

of range.

crossed another bush-belt and

into there

the open
the enemy

the of the foot at plains

a nd hills, Chanjai

Anally abandoned
a

the chase.
resumed
our

After
to camp.

few minutes' halt to rest, we

march ride

Qeorge
We

now

mounted

the mule,
a

to intending
were
an

for

an

hour and then

giveme

turn, as

we

both rather

tucked up.
the mule

had marched

for perhaps half

hour,when

thrown

and,the girth shied, suddenly breaking, Qeorgewas the back of his to the ground. He feU on heavily

head and
he
was

lay still.

I hurried up, but before I could

a

get near
I

pickedup by

of the couple
were

men.

When

finally
in
a

reached

him I asked if he

hurt,and he answered
was
''

hollow of vdce sort strange shaken."

most

that he he

not

hurt, onlybadly
times in
a

This

statement

several repeated him

a

aimless
more
on

manner.

I shook

bit,but could get

asked
me

nothing might

out

of him. he

Suddenly he
he seemed
as

if he

lean

me;
a

appearedto
the
men

keep
had

his feet with

In difficulty.

few moments a nd again,

to be
now

sufficiently caught the

recovered to ride

mule,
him
"

and the saddle readjusted the mule

him helped
case

up,

to watch

in closely
same

she

advising shied again.

he

still in the he said, All right,"

on

and strained voice,

went

while again, later I

I resumed

my

i n the position
me

rear.

Ten
up.

minutes When

saw

him

wait for and stop

to come

I reached him

he asked in his natural voice what recoUecHan of his fall no aiaoltUely he till it immediatelyfollowing
on

had

happened?
or

He

had

firom the mule

came

the events

himself found and to,

I

the mule

quiteten

minutes

later.

told him

what

had

happened,though

he

was

328

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO
a

GALLA-LAND.

incrediiloiis. Beyond manifesily he

was

few braises and

never

ache head-

not

much

and he hurt,

felt any serious

after-effects. We
a

reached

camp

at

3 o'clock in the aftemocm, after

were on

solid seven-hour

march, three hours of which

did the whole reached camp

spent
my

in continuous

I fighting.
we

distance

feet,and by the time

done up. The casualties on

felt pretty well

the

enemy'sside,so
On

fiEur as
our

I eonld had

amounted ascertain,
one

to about nineteen.

side we

all considered. marvellous a killed; things goat escape, When

we was

into got camp very in

we

found
our

safe. eveiything
account

El

Hakim

at surprised

k"

the

manner persistent

which in

the
warm

natives
terms

had
on

followed the
way

us,

and

himself expressed
we

in which

managed
our

to

get away

without

any

serioma

mishap.
Soon after Munithu and
to
come swear

arrival we

were

to surprised see
come

old Bei-

into camp. eternal

He

had

to

b^

our

pardon,
bore
no

in friendship
a

future.

He

which, to my mind, is malice,

most

in the trait engaging

Eikuyu

character.
a

The

A'kikuyu know

when

they

axe

beaten,and

few hours after a life-and-death struggle with

in which one,

theyhad
over

been

vanquished, theywill come

a

into which

one's camp
I think

and talk

it with

frankness primitive

delightfulOf
just

should matters course,

as

the other go
your

would they way,

dance cheerfully
a

over

membere dis-

should and corpse,

favourable

arise opportunity trick ; it is

are

theywould
all the
same

not hesitate to to

underhand attempt any

thenu

If their traitorous intentions

reason

covere dis-

and
''

frustrated, they
and sharp clever

among
us

themselves,
and go
see

This is a very

M'sungu. Let

A'KIKLYC

WEA1X)NS.

A'kikuyu. 10. Leather (juiver for poisoned ^'. Axe. iK Knife. arrows. iu leather sheath. of two iron nuts from the railway. 11. Sword 12. Iron club formed 13. Sword. to prenerve the jx^isou. l.j. l*ois"me"l arrow, showing leather wmiipinj; 14, 17, H. Wooden 10. Puisonetl arrow, clubs. unwrapi)ed.
use

1.

A'kikuyu shield.

7. Spears in 2, 3, l, 5, (",

the ftiiioiij^

.J.N

^"-'v

N.. "tk:nS.

FIGHT

AT

MUNITHU.
'"

3*9

and hiiDy

eat food in his camp;

and away

theygo

on

visit

to their erstwhile enemy, at his expense,

and making merry and,after eating him

a

they bid

cordial adieu and

so
one

p^haps

attack him and

againnext

day.

It is aU

like, childdelightfully
cannot

and primitive,

that savage,

find it in

one's heart to bear any malice. To

return to

Bei-Munithu.

That had

old savage
been only

admitted treated
men as

and that he had been veiy foolish,

he who
In

and undertook deserved,

came

in future to treat all white

into his district with the greatestconsideration. time he would Uke

was

the

mean

to make

blood-brotherhood

with

George and
it would

myself! He
so a

added he sorry,
up.

naively,
that I

that he had not done

on

our

way

I told him

hoped

be

lesson to remained

out that him, and pointed

was fedthful,

K'Dominuki, who
his reward Munithu and half
in

had

now

reaping
BeiJumbi
to

the presents we

showered

upon

him.

then returned to his

a

escorted village,
as

by

dozen

men

as

far

Earanjui,in order

prevent the

of possibility the

and Wa'ChaDJeiwaylaying

him. murdering As
we

had
on

now

moderate

of food,we proposed quantity

on

starting
Kenia. and drove We

the

following morning
more

our

march

round

The rain, however,once

us

descended in torrents,
tents for the next
two

to the shelter of our

days.
ointment
came
a

ourselves occupied

duringthat
of

in time, partly

and distributing and partly in dispensing loads, arranging

to the constant

stream

women

and children who also

into camp,

firom chiggers. We suffering

we

bought

few live fowls,which

carried with
as an

us.

Apropos of fowls,and
often

instance of the outside anything

ignorance
their own
once

displayed by natives
I

about
an

particular concerns,

give

w hich experience

befel

330

THROUGH at

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

El Hakiin

Nyemps,
one

the settlement at the south of Lake when

or

On Baringo. Hakim there

on

ocoasion
a

that visiting
so

"1 place

took
one

with him
of his

dozen

live fowls.

Leaving Owing
inquired
As

after excursions periodical

care

he elephants^

them placed

in the

of

an

old

man

in

Kyemps.
he

to unforeseen circumstances

he did not return for six months.

On

his arrival there at the end of that time

after his fowls. their

care

The

old

man

who

had

been

with charged
out.

led the way did not had

eaten
a

outside and

pointedthem
concluded

El Hakim old the

man case.

see

he chickens any and eggs^

tiiat tlie
were

the

such if inquired
man

After

little the

old

seemed El

to

stand, underto

and, shaking his head, beckoned

follow
a

Hakim

him. which

He

led

him
a

into

hut, and
the

di^ladng
months'

stone

covered

hole in El

the c^itre

of the floor, six

he

proudly exhibited
Asked

to
were

HaMm

collection of eggs, which

return.

stored in the hole

not eaten

his against

why
he

he had
was

them, the old fellow

the of
to
was

looked amazed; fact that

they were

quite ignorant of apparently eatable. He immediately called some

when glistened the
name

his cronies to

the seeming wonder him, and explained

of food
to

them.

Their eyes

and theyimmediately mentioned, begged El Hakim them the eggs, which

give

he did.

They
some

then

doubtfully pro*
a

ceeded to test the

truth of the
were

ITsungu's words,
months

{htoto

the eggs as ceedingwhich,' the

ever

old,led
more

most

and disastrous results,

they became
was a

thaji

convinced

that El

Hakim that

most

teirible liar.

Further

showed inquiry

they were

perfectly ignorant
they playedin the
the fourteenth

of the nature

of eggs, and

of the part

economy At

of nature. eleven o'clock in the

morning of

day

332

THROUGH

KIKUYU
over

TO

GALLA-LAND.

moniiDg to
We made

find

stretched oat thirty sheep

was

lifdess

on

the sodden earth"

a

It

most disheaortening. really

start

againat ten o'olock and

marched

in
we

the country gradually westerlydirection, ascendingas westwards. progressed From onr camping-place the following we evening down
on

looked
was

M'thara

and
On

Embe, while the temperature

the next and march day's
we

lower. appreciably
over

crossed

of country

rocky

dotted formation, gravelly made It

was a a

with the everywhere weird and very small

which t rees, whistling peculiar sound

in the breete. in feet eight

mournful

thorny

tree

fix"m four to
are

the height^

leaflessbranches of which black seed-pods, insect bores

causes blows,
a

covered with hollow t^e size of

a

spheiical
An

in colour and

plum.

small hole in this it to emit

a

when w hich, shell,

the wind

musical note, similar to that produced These covered trees whistling the

by

an

Eolian

harp.

of whistled in all breath for at and miles, keys every country

wind ; the sound

away

now

in volume,and increasing

anon

dying
as

in

a saw

mournful
a

wail that sounded almost uncanny. the road,but

as

We
saw

lioness on solitary

soon

she
we

us

she made

off at top speed over

the open, before

could get within reasonable range. We in

a

camped

at some

which water-pools sur"ce. rocky The

the rain had

men

left
us

in depression

the

informed
no

that

they had

heard

in lirthara that tiiere was

water

these beyond
were
no

for ten pools

on

days'march;
my map,
we

but

though there
that

rivers marked be
some

felt convinced

tiieremust

rivers on

the north side.

JosephThompson
of the

and those few ''A streams, very says,

rise on tiieeast and north side** (of smallest, Kenia). the

On

contrary,we

had

found

the

east

oi

Kenia

FIGHT

AT

MUNITHU.

333
were
no oertaLoly was

there w ell watered, exceedingly though

very

largerivers,and
visited north
or

as

events

proved,Thompson
But

as equallyat fiftult

side. the north regards

east

then he

never

Kenia, his knowledge of those

sources.

derived fix)m been native parts having

However,
we

we

felt certain that

uneven

we our

should find water, so way in of spite the

pursuedthe
We
were

tenor

of

maps. and still ascending, the air

to began

get very
was

cold

at

the night; though

sun's rays, when

it

not

down beat raining,

duringthe day with

undiminished

vigour.
by
no

Owing
means

to the formation
an

of the country,walking was

unmixed

and sand,gravel, pleasure,

loose blocks

of lava, and

fragmentsof white quartz,making travelling

both tiresome and

fatiguing.
and game,
even

There

was
a

no

the

was vegetation a

very

scanty ;

few stunted thorn trees, and

some

aloe o f with species sole

red flowers, and

isolated

formingthe Euphorbias
The

of the representatives

world. vegetable

giant-branched

a peculiar pax), presented {Nyikcn Euphorbias appearance

with their huge cactus-like stem

gave

and vertical branches, which

immense

them

the appearance

of

an

candelabra.
a

Some
or

of them

were

f eet in thirty Great

w ith height,

stem

six

eight
east

feet in diameter.

ravines,similar to those of

traverse Kenia, but without their luxuriant vegetation,

the

from south to north. country Some of them

a

careful negotiaThey required tion*

had to be followed for miles

was crossing-place

alongthe They

edge
flow

before

suitable

discovered.

all have considerable streams

of water

in the

bottom, which

north,and eventually jointhe Waso

saw

Nyiro.
for awhile, but
of the ravines
one

We

another lion, and

a

stalked him
near

he retreated into

patch of bush

334

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

and

could not

be

found,nor

could

we

waste

much

time Ib

for him. looking

Late in the afternoon, on and ravine,

open
on

October 27th,we

croeaed

large
into

the climbing

opposite slope
in

we

emerged
see

As far the could as countiy. eye green surface rolled away

or a

l^e grass-

grown
a

without undulating ridges,

tree

bush

to relieve the eye.

It reminded

me

very

much
trees

of

Downs the o f portions

in

Sussex,from which

the

had been
on

removed.

herd of zebra

themselves disported
I secured
one

the

and after a careful stalk plain, who

were

of them food.

fen*the men, We

aheady growingshort
the grass, the air

of

camped that nighton

being
more

much very

the temperaturebeing not colder, certainly

than SS""Fahrenheit.

CHAPTER

XX.

ROUND

NORTH

AND

WEST

KENIA

TO

THE

TANA.

The

forestsof North Eenia" Diffioult primeval ooontry" Ravinee^Ng^re Cedar fore8tft--0pen Mooeoor" Bain" Ngare Nannki" coimtiy" No of ''Sherlock of the Waao Death waters Nyiro" Upper game Witchcraft" Zebra" Bhinoceros" Sheep Hofanes" dying oflP" More rain ^The Aldknyn once more" Attempt of the A*kikaya to ^Bain again ^Marangaat last" The steal sheep" DifiBcnltmarches Tana nnpassable.
"
"

"

"

"

For

the next scarred

day or

two

we

travelled

over

rolling land, grasswere

the sides of which ravines, by forests

are

clothed

with and the

forests. These magnificent convey

a

very beantifal,
peace
to

welcome
weary

sense

of restfalness and
enters

tired and

traveller who
contrast

their dark the

and
baked sun-

silent

The precincts. lava

from

the

glareof

dotted with plains,

the

glittering qnartz blocks, exceedingly grateful ;

was

which

were

visible to the north, was

and the easy

walking over
stumbled

the soft yielding moss

most

the loose after delightfdl grass Tall

we

pebblesand
over

stones

and stiff yellow weeks.

had

for the

previousfew
their beard-like
a

and junipers the

podocarpnsreared
masses

heads stately

towards

sky, the

of

grey

lichen,

itom pendant

their massive

bonghs,givingthem
well with solemn Even the

hoary deep
are

and venerable appearance

that accorded

the

silence of

these
ever,

forest

glades,whose by
33S
man.

aisles

seldom, if

disturbed

birds and

336

THROUGH

KIKUYU to unwilling
some were

TO

GALLA-LAND.

insects seemed the soft hum

a

break the universal

a

and silence,

of

or insect, flying

subdued

chirpfinom
That
most

bird solitary

heard. only occasionally Zanzibari

irreverent of

animals,the

porter,hnshed
himself

his

speechto
the

soft murmur,

in spite of impressed

by

grandeurand

solitude of these
over

primevalglades. On

march the first day's

and streams, good-sized discovered in the bed of

own

crossed Uucee we plains camped at some finally pools we

a

the grass

sand rive^, which

sufficed for

our

the animals having drunk all theyrequired requirements, I On shot march. the that another zebra,but day during found

they country. They

were

difficult to increasiogly
were

obtain in diis open would

a

and wild, very

not

let

me

approach dropped

nearer

than 600

yards.
as

I risked

shot at have

that

distance with the Martini, and

one

luck would

it, I
On

beast with

bullet dean

the heart through

short rations we
to feed the
men.

found that it

one required

zebra per diem

The

next

day we
a

reached

at ravine, large

the bottom

of which flowed which Biver),

was

called the river, large Ngare Mooeoor

us an

(Egg
game

took

hour and
men

half to had

cross.

No

to be seen, but

the luckily
or

enough food
some

to last

them for another

day

two,

as

theystillhad

of the

from Munithu. grainleft which theyhad brought It rained hard

at

but duringthe night, resumed

we
our

cleared up the

again

and sunrise, At

we

march

over

grass-covered
ravine, the

downs.
we largest

midday
seen
so

reached

yet another
were

had

far.

Its sides

clothed with the

same

but the undergrowth was forest,

a

thicker than usuaL threaded

our

to cross finding place in the jungle a through Not

the ravine, we direction

way
was

to parallel cut our

it. It

h ard work, we extremely

havingto

way

with knives

MOUNT

KENIA

FROM
12

THE

NORTH.

(DisUut about

miles.)

MOUNT

KENIA

FROM

THE

SOUTH

WEST.

(See page

349.

(Distant")H)ui30 miles.)

338
over
an

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA

LAND.

hour

waited

while patiently

the

dond

bank

swirled hither and

of the

at times disclosing a small portion thither,

manner tantalimng

peak in

most

; bnt

jnstas

was

of getting to despair a beginning the donds failed,

chance

before the and to my

lig^t
great
I

partedfor

moment,

delightI
a yielding

secured the
feur from

coveted

exposure,

which, though
as

was negative, perfect

good

as

could expect under the circumstances. We

as
no

were

to compelled

kill

more seen

of the the ;

sheep for food,

cattle
of

game

whatever

was

to be
saw

I suppose, efiTect,

of the

We rinderpest.
over

thousands

of skulls of

scattered the vast

the

of plains North

Kenia, the remains

at
one

hards of the Masai, who

a

time
Some

used

this

stretch of country as remains

were
no

grazing ground.
the tracks of

few of the Masai

doubt

of parties
at

elmoran, who, fix)m their settlements Naivasha,used this road

On the
on

their

Kinangop and to raiding expeditions consulting my

started at
a

M'thara, Munithu, and north-east Kenia generally.

which following day,
on

diaiy ei^t
small

I find to be the 2nd of

November, 1900, we
an

o'clock in the
stream.

and morning,

hour later reached trouble

we

much this without Crossing

marched

for another two hours,at the end of that time

upper
waters

the reaching

of the Waso has Nyiro

Nyiro.
been always
a

The Waso Aberdare

supposedto rise in the

direction north-easterly
to flow northward.

flow in and to Bange,

tillit is joined by the

This

and then Nanuki, Ngare

as

is

mistake,so far

it is

supposed to

rise in

in the Aberdare

Bange,as the Waso

hitherto

rises Nyiro really

the western

side of Kenia itself, the

muddy

stream

small and comparatively Waso be to Nyiro being supposed

to it. merelytributary

ROUND

NORTH

AND

WEST

KENIA.

339
we

At the spot crossed the Waso

only a few miles from its Nyiro,it

a was

where source,

a "airly already largeand

deep stream, with

of
a

swift current. very

we

It lies at the bottom

which ravine, large

were
an

nnable to cross, but at first hour down

we

after

t he for crest searching took

discovered

broad
across

which path elephant the Waso

ns

to the

bottom,

the and np the other side. At the crossing-place river,

Nyiroflows
most

over

dark coloured rock ; the water

was as

icy cold and

such Objects pellucid. remarkal^y

small stones,etc., in the bed of the stream, were distinct; and but for the their outlines that
a

surprisingly
that distorted

current swiftly flowing

it would have been difficult to believe little,

theywere

beingviewed throughfrom

four to six feet in

no

of water.

into this Taking

I am consideration,

way

is that it called the Waso surprised

toakr.

dewr literally Nyiro, seemed

to
me

Till that time the of

a

name

had

to be

somewhat

misnomer,as the Waso

that
we

odd 140 for the Nyiro,

a

miles of its

course

had

traversed, was

yellowish

belied which its name. stream, muddy

The

Masai

from

and Gilgil
most

Kaivasha, in their raids

the route
we

on

North-east then and

Eenia,
"

used probably

were
"

following
would
cross

as

instanced

by the bones of the cattle

same

the river at the

spot. With

their

nomenclature giftfor appropriate

not
same

do

otherwise than way

as

name

they,to my mind, could it the ''Clear water,"' in the Ngare Nanuki

the ''Bed the water

they named
over

the

on water,"

account

of the apparent colour which

givento
from

rock by the red gneiss its course Eenia. The which

it flows in that
to and

part

of

layon

their route

North-east

Waso

Nyiro rises
base of the

on

the west

of

Eenia; and,

on

reachingthe

moxmtain, turns

sharplynorth.

34D

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

beingthen
NannkL We

by joined

the staream which

drains the eastern

on

face of the Aberdaie

Bange, and farther

by

the

Kgare
some

camped

on

the

side of the ravine, amid opposite The ground was imaginable.

of the loveliestscenery with short green bushes

ooveral

grass, grew

resembling dumps
one
on

well-keptmeadow.
every

Leleshwa
some

in

hand, forming
to
see.

glades prettiest elei^ant path led throughthis

open

of the

would

wish

The

bush belt, and out into the towards

ground to
human

the westwards
are

Einangop.
been

These

paths elephant
Almost

the finest roads in

seems

Afiica. Equatorial

intelligence
curves

to have

displayed
their

in the selection of their is bejrond caviL solidity Poor

and

while gradients,

''Sherlock Holmes" El Hakim

was

with prostrated

tetanus

at this camp.

said he could do

nothingfor

him.

When
him

we

marched

the next

day we
man

were
was

leave to compelled
in chargeof sick,
sent
men

behind

with another
was

who

Jumbi,who

to take

care

of them
on.

until we

back

firom the next camp

to carry them

During
On
in such
an

the march
reason

another man, for such

an

an

M'kamba, deserted.

the inquiring

desertion extraordinary
were

we inhospitable region,

informed

by

the he

other had

men
a

that

they had
on

intended to kill him

so

because

cast

spell
Asked

''Sherlock Holmes," and

caused his

illness; but he had got wind of their amiable intentions, and cleared out. the
men

in what

manner

he had

cast

the
a

spell,

that replied had

strewn

he had them
on

gatheredleaves of
the
them

certain lus

plantand

and path, he
was

when

suspecti un-

victim walked smitten with disease. The

to appeared

over reason

immediately
to something

for this

deadly animosity

be

domestic purely

had and one,

ROUND

NORTH

AND

WEST

KENIA.

34'

do with
more
or

the deserter's wife, to whom

the sick had

man

had

paid

attention than her husband We endeavoured

to

considered desirable

necessary.

such
more

and as witchcraft, tiling

that there was no explain their companion's illness was

probacydue
that
a

to

the cold and

damp
men

we

were

then

bnt experiencing, convinced

without

result,the

beiog firmly
by the

worked had been malignantspell

unfortunate husband upon the disturber of his domestic peace.

We towards
were
now

in travelling in
a

direction south-westerly

ITdoro,and hoped

couple of days
once
a more

more

to

reach the inhabited districts. Game the

we

appeared in
of the

shape of
saw

rhinoceros and solitary

on

which herd of zebra,

our

grazing

the

justoutside plains

camp

3rd of November. and

I went

while El Hakim after the zebra,

I could not

George tackled

the rhino.

get

nearer

to

the zebra than 400 but

and I tried a yards,

shot at that range, gave

me

missed. unfortunately

They

never

another

to camp. chance,and I returned empty-handed

In

the meantime

the

others had worked

on

down

wind

of

the rhino,and then laid down

the

plainin
over

the brute's When

path and waited until

he
The
was

it almost walked

them.

quiteclose
rhinoceros

El

Hakim

put

bullet into its shoulder.

barrel left but the of immediately charged, it turned and fled in El Hakim
a

the '577 got home, and

at
a

direction then took

to its previous course. right-angles

Aront its but shot at the horn, beast, smashing running

was

Asit it continued its flight took George away, hit it,with

a

time that by

quite200 yards
once more

and shot at it with his '303,

the result that it

and only fled the faster, it seeing

they
in
a

had finally
a

the mortification of

disappear
their way

belt of bush

distant. of miles couple returned

to

They therefore
On

gave up

the chase and

camp.

342

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

back

they were
into camp

caught

in

terrificthnnderstonn, and

got

half-drowned, much

chagrinedat

their

non-enccess.

It rained all night and until half-past nine the when morning,
we

following
of the
as

made

another start w hich night, been the

Some
men

more

sheep died
twelve

duringthe

used

food
or

the Latterly

had sheep

dying

in batches of ten
were
now

and every night,

their numbers
a

gready
our

with, of course, reduced,

dividends ; prospective other
so

in reduction corresponding

that,what with the weather

feel
so

and

things,
we

did

not

cheerful

as

we

might

otherwiBe have done.

"

Sherlock Holmes
a

"

died

on

the 4th,and

we

buried him

beneath
of his

heap

of stones,in

of the spite

energetic protests
be left to
to as, strange

companions,who
"

desired that he should funeral

"

the

hysBnas say, theyappear

We
more

^the usual Wakamba

to have
a

violent hour
on

burial. prejudice against that

onlytravelled an
descended The
a

day,
a

as

the rain
on our

once

in torrents and

put
was

stop

fmrther
not

progress.
a

countiy hereabouts

absolutely open,
so

tree

or

bush
an

showing up anywhere,
enclosure for the
our

that

we

were

unable to build of fuel,to

or sheep,

lack for even,

rose

fires. On light

hand right

the

lofty

of the Aberdare heights isolated

mass

Bange,and behind
sea.
were so

them

againthe

of

peak 13,120 Einangop reared its stately

two

feet above the level of the The

next
we

day

or

among

some

of the most

miserable and

had spent the poor

were so

far.

It rained
in

morning, noon,
ever

and night, We

sheep succumbed
of fresh meat.

increasing
had grown

numbers.

out
we

Mutton

distasteful to us,
"

lived

on

beans boiled in

hippo

fat

but nourishing

monotonous

dish.

ROUND

NORTH

AND

WEST
once more

KENIA.

343

On ihe 5th of November

at
a

we

reached the Tana

a

place
as

near

its

source.

It flowed in

south-westerly
It \" here

at the bottom direction,

of the usual
"

ravine. deep
In
over
sun

known

the Kilaluma, i,e.

was we

firewater." knock

the afternoon
a

El Hakim

fortunate dined
or

enoughto

Thompson's
also showed ever, It,how-

and gazelle, itselffor

an

The sumptuously.

hour

so, and

quite cheered

us
more

up.

rained hard all

k illed night, twenty

sheep,and

prevented
An

us

the in o'clock till after ten starting

morning.
and found

hour

later
some

we

crossed

small

stream

ourselves among

good native
to look for

niceled into which paths hours later we

so

lookingopen
and
sent
men

bush country. Three

out

camped,
we

villages
our

that

might

purchasefood A'kikuyu,
A
we

from
were

the inhabitants, though as

they were
we were

rather doubtful of

reception.
while in all directions, into disappeared

rhinoceros

t he charged tiirough camp

men

the pitching

the tents, scattering

no

doing though fortunately side of the camp. the bush on the opposite into At dusk a greatcrowd of A'kikuyuswaggered making
in
bnt
a a

harm, and

camp,

most

infernal din,and
manner.
our

knob vraving

kerries about

reckless very when

we

At firsttheyseemed

aggressive,

intimated
a

payment

for

their tune, and

to presentsheep as willingness few days'supplyof muhindi, theychanged then went on amicably the barteriog enough,
a

though accompanied by
which

terrificamount
to be xmable

of noise, without
even

the

Aldkuyu

seem

to conduct

the

smallest business transaction.

men

To

of the the great delight

we

of muhindi secured five days' supply

a

and

quantity

of sugar cane, besides

On

little honey.

inquiry

we

learnt that The

to the eastward.

journey Maranga was four days' populated path lay throughthickly

344

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

the whde cotuitiy

in

way^

some andllweanticipated

difficulty
the

it without trayeraing
are

losmg any
We
were

of the
on

sheep^as

Aldkuyu
of the
cross

expert thieves.

the south bank

we T^ma^ and consequently on was

should be

compelled to
paratively com-

it,as the country

the south
a mass

bank, thou^
of

uninhabited,

and hills, rugged

to at
cross

practically pathless.We
Tana, as it would
and with the amount
were

were

not

anxious

the

necessitate our

it re-crossing had

Maranga*

of rain which

very

doubtful whether
a

the ford

we fallen, recently would be practicable. a

We

secured

for the guide

us

him promising following day, We

sheepif
that Mr.

he took

to Maranga. safely

heard farther
a

Hall, the Government

had established officer, "om journey This was,

station at Mbiri,a bank of the Tana

news,
as
we were

of couple hours'

the south

opposite Maranga.
to yearning
see
a

indeed, good
more,

white fetoeonce

and
man,

decent to eat incidentally get something whose

name
we was

Another white stationed with Nubian

could not ascertain, was the officer in station. of the charge

Mr. HalL who

He

troops

the garrisoned

At nine o'clock the and started. Half

an

following morning we
waist

broke

camp

hour later we and

crossed the Tana, here There

was a

about six

yardswide

deep.

very

swift and this occasioned strong current,

some

when difficulty

the sheepacross. numbers of getting During the operation but we considered it prudent A'kikuyuvolunteered to assist,
to

keep them

at

distance.

The
a

road

on

the other side

was

very

bad, consisting merely of

a

narrow

footpath winding
and thick three very concealed themselves and then to

alongthe steep slopeof

On each side of the
to four feet high.

rounded grass
was

about halfwayup. hill,

paththe

Many A'kikuyuhad
every
now

in this grass, and endeavoured

quietly

346

THROUGH
a was

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

to accede to such

had and after he demand, preposterous

repeatedit,and
stalked out himself had not that
we were

still met the

with

he decided refusal, He dignity.

so potato,

of camp

of offended picture
so

even brought

much
our

as

sweet

the

more

in abrupt

refusal

After

his

some departure

of his elders and hour

or so

the Wandorobbo chat.

stayed
us

with

us

for

an

for

Th^
an

gave

the
more

news general or

of the

and among district,

other items of

less doubtful
some

included they veracity,

impossible yarn Maranga

as

about
our

cannibal dwarCs who

had visited

since

stay in that place. They described them

^'watu

short men"),and indicated, wafupi Sana" (''very by holding

their hands

that distance above

the

that they weie ground,

about four feet in dwarfs them.

came

height. They
to

further stated that these

to

Maranga

buy

that people

theymight
we

eat at

We

cross-examined them

for closely,

did not

all believe their story.

came

They

were

asked where these dwarfs

but after a them, stumped
on

fix)m. That

rather question

few moments'

theyhit cogitation "They

came

the furthest

placeUi^
!
"

could think of.

from

beyond Momhcua

said

they.
On
was a

this reply, we receiving

pure

were

convinced that the story

and said as much. fetbrication,

They onlysmiled Maranga

so

and

changed the subject.We

and
were

at inquired
as opinion

wards, after-

confirmed in

our

to their untruthfulness.

It is very strange that

amusement

they should find

much

in such senseless and

to lies, purposeless though,

be sure, the native.

is practice

not

whollyconfined

to the African

and the whole of the next day, night, We spentthe day playing so that travelling was impossible. dominoes, goingoutside at intervals to watch the sheepdie.

It rained hard all

ROUND

NORTH

AND

WEST

KENIA.

347

and
next

to

grumble at

our

bad

luck.

It rained also all the

but morning ;
us

and the night

the of next part greater enable

it

cleared We The

at midday to sufficiently
a

to

proceed.

therefore made

three-hour march and steep very

no

and

againcamped.

clay paths
sick and

were

extremelyslippery
while of trouble,
about in
a

after the rain, us causing the wearied

small amount stumbled

sheep

most

manner. distressing

After for
To
an

we

had
or

camped,

I and the

guidewent

on

ahead road.
in I

hour

two

in order to prospect the morrow's

saw

my

I great delight

Doenyo Sabuk, away

to the south

the
saw

distance to the
the

and further south-east,

summits

of the hills behind

Nairobi,which
very

rather lay
me

less than
to

miles sixty
was

away.

It seemed

to strange

reflect that I
a

in heart of the standing

to people,
as a a

Kikuyuland
the
a

amid
as

would-be

hostile

all intents and purposes if I

was

fiar away

from
at

civilization any
moment

at
over

North stolen

Pole, and where

dispute

sheep would resolve itselfinto

side of the range of hills which with derks life of
a

and desperate

fight pitiless
on

and miles for life; while there, scarcely sixty away,

this

seemed

so

Nairobi near, lay

its houses,its
and

Baboo locomotives, workshops, railway

ticket collectors, and colonial town.

all the varied and

busy

modem the

During
more

night it
We

rained

and again,

killed ofi

some

of the

sheep.

in the started early

same

the in morning

hope

of

Maranga the reaching A'kikuyumade

one or

however, we day,a hope,

did not realize. The themselves shots

were

rather obnoxious

on

the calf with

road,and
and their

two

fired

by

our

men.

A
away

sheep were

dear the thieves getting stolen,

If
we

bootyinto the thick bush.

had let the matter

348 pass
so we

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

should have had further trouUe

we

on

the next

march,

when he

camped

we

sent

for the chief of the district him of the circcunstanoe, should like to
see

When

appeared

we

informed

and intimated at the

same

time that we

him

stayiuour camp did apparently

to

until the stolen propertywas

not
a

restored. This his ideas, as he

at all coincide with

made immediately

dash

for

meanwhile liberty,
were
a

shooting
in

his warriors, of whom

there

number great

the camp, who shadows.

on

into the disappeared

surroundingbush
a

like
move

We

had, however, anticipated just such

a

his part, and at

seized the " rom Somali, Bani, signal us,

the diief and

secured

him, and

was

under

the

painful
of die into
oar

of handcuffing bim necessity

to the

and tent-pole
a

a putting

sentryover
case, and

him.

He

then took

quite
whom

differentview
we

despatched messengers,
to

had allowed had stolen

camp

for that purpose, An hour

or

the

who people

animals. with the

two afterwards the messengers

returned

missingbeasts,and theywere handed over to us with profuseapologies. released the due^ We thereupon of him not to do it again, matter a as fact, telling though,
he did not know
of the theft tillwe

ourselves

so

abruptly
hold him

informed him

of it

We

could not, however, but

for any responsible

his

indiscretion committed
to show
a

by his people.On
bore
a

in order release,

him that

we

no

malice,we

him with presented

and asked him
to

bead necklace and

some

coloured doth,
yams,

bringus
the
he

sweet

and potatoes that he He

and
to

else in anything

line vegetable

mi^it wish

present to us, which

promisedto
a

do.

returned in the dark brown

we

eveningwith
a

(^ supply
a

accordingly and a vegetables

which

fat-tailedKikuyu

sheepas

In return present. with sheep,

him with presented

was

Bendili of couple

he

delighted.

ROUND

NORTH

AND

WEST

KENIA.

349
one

The away would

otor

chief informed

us was

that

Maranga

was

only

march

and that the road accompany

ns

he himself good,and, in addition,

to

in order thither,

prevent any

more

of

stolen. being property o'dock eight before

we

He

was

as

good as
resumed

his word, and

our

at

the next

morningwe
a

journey.
Kenia

Just
as

started I took

of photograph in the

Mount

it

exposedto view layfolly

a

of the early half-light

morning of
mountain We

dull

day. The

result is not all that could be

desired,but it will givea very fair idea of the aspect of the

firom the south-west found the road
as

steep

and

as slippery

on

the that

and it tried the animals previous day,

reason we

For exceedingly.

made

short march
were

and

ten. camped at half-past

Soon

after the tents

son

our pitched,

old Mend heard

Manga
of
our

and

his

Koranja appeared.They had

had
come

and approach

to meet

us.

us They greeted our

very

at delighted heartily, expressing surprise

safe return.
news

We

of the the rest spent

the day in discussing

with

them.

During the
who answered

afternoon the chief of the

to the name

district surrounding into camp, friend of

of Simba

came (lion),

the example of his neighbour, our and, following with him yesterday, brought
a a

sheep and

some

as vegetables

present
we

He

received

Bendili of couple wkhes. good

sheep in return,
"

and

partedwith mutual

The next

morning
a

we

marched
ran

into straight

and Maranga

camped
a

beside

which brook,

into the Tana about half

mile farther down. be

Owing
a

to the

heavy rains we
in the Tana with high,

surmised
;
a even

that there would tins small brook almost

lot of water
was

in

the water

breast
one

current

powerfulenough

to sweep

bodilyaway.
cross

The the

natives affirmed that it would

be

to impossible

350

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

Tana for at least three weeks, and after lunch

two men,
was

ingly perhaps longer.Accordthe Tana

I went
see

on

to

by accompanied
firstview of the

in order to
a

for It

mysell My

river

revelation. rains

was

extraordinarily high, the

its

constant

heavy
a

swelled having greatly

volume;
under

and it Ib not

small river at any time.

a

The ford
current

was

six feet of water, with

muddy

brown

and swirling
an

eddyingpast
hour.
our

at

speedoS,between

four and five miles

cross

It would

have been

to utterly impossible

with

loads and auimala until the flood had and meanwhile the rain showed
no

sided, subconsiderably

signof ceasing.

I returned to camp

dispirited. thoroughly

On the way
I had
not

back I

passed
in

waterfall which magnificent The whole volume

over

heard previously tumbled

of.

of the

river roared and

great masses
some

of foam

the

down naked black rock,plunging in

a

twelve
a

or

fifteen "det
roar

yeasty smother,accompaniedby

thunderous

which

effectually precluded any attempt

a

at conversation in watv

the immediate

At the foot of the fall the vicinity.

boiled and swirled in

were

Waves pooL great

several feet hi^

thrown
was

which rush with

by for seemingly gathering strength

outlet "rom the only about 60

e ach other against

the violence of the water, its fierce mad channel

the through

a narrow pool,

and sides, perpendicular

feet across, cut

over

the solid rock. through

Large ruggedtrees himg

their pool, leaves

the

falls and round the moisture

air upon

of edges the

from

the

of clouds cast hissing spray

dripping highin the

of a scene forming every savage and not easily wonderfully impressive, forgotten. grandeur,

side,the whole

CHAPTER

XXI.

(conclusion.)
FROM THE BIVER TANA TO NAIBOBI.

Arrival at the Tana

"

river
"

A visitto M^biri
a
"

"

the Croesing

Tana

"

Small*

^Peculiar method of fright transporting pox by the Maranga ^Eatidrowned" The goodsacross the river practised of the sheep"We resome Ml"iri" Disposal sa"ri across" the march The Thika-Thika" "The The more" Maragoa once swamps" ^Nairobi. Farm Eriger's ^I give Ramathani
"

"

Early

the next
an

morning we
a

sallied forth "rom

of the

our

tents

and

spent
the each
to went

hour and
across.

half in the water

were

brook, getting
stream, and
from

sheep

They

unable be

to face the

animal separate

to required

passed across

hand then
In

hand, the labour involved

on

being very great.

We

to
we

the Tana

and

camped

beside the ford.

the

afternoon

got
some

our

and with out, Alpinerope in

a one getting on

considerable end of it

trouble and
across

risk succeeded fast to

the river and made with two

or

tree

the

bank, opposite

Jumbi
across

three other

men

and

myself swimming
the water We that I had to

the river for the purpose.

was

It

not

until I

was

in actually

realized the tremendous

go
a

power

of the current.

long way
carried

up
us

stream

before

plungingin,as
and, but river,

the swift for this

current

rapidlydown
351

353

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

would precaiition,

have

swept

us

the past rather

only landinga

place

on

the other side. This made

waa

long swim

of it. I

of but of afraid the crocodiles, horribly presence

were

they fortunately
When
across, it at
was

absence. their by conspicuous

we failures,

after many last,

not

had

the got rope

water
was

of much

the as assistance,

too

would it animals and the not the "eu^ alone for porters, ^deep
on

Another consideration. any difficulties vras

a

circumstance which added

to

our

there

beingonlyone

the on landing-place in the

bank, opposite

little gullyabout four feet wide

made bank, steep

by

the

who hippopotamus

came fonnerly

and afterwards widened ashore here to feed, the ford. this

K

by natives using
been

by mischance

anybody had
almost

swept past
been

landing-place they would

was
no

have certainly for a

drowned, as there
down the river.
a

other

land to place

long way
the Tana anxious

Failing bridge,
for another month

our

chances of
very

getting
as

across

were

and slender,

was

to reach Mr. Hall's station at M'biri in order to

get a few
to the

newspapers, chiefs son, These he

some

and provisions, I sent word tobacco,

I that Koranja,

of a required couple guides.

had

great
it
was

in difficulty

the procuring,
cross

natives

that declaring
on

to impossible
a

the river. However, of doth, I

the

promiseof
swam

heavy reward

prevailed
me.

upon

two

of the

Maranga
the Tana
on

natives to accompany with together, heads.

I my

We

three then
up

done clothing unable

on

in small

bundles
so as

our

was

to

get

my

rifleacross,

I went

without it. Once

we

the other
set off at
a

side,I dressed

and as possible, speedily

for M^birl goodpace

We
hour

reached

the

an Marathwa, another fair-sized liver,

which necessitated strippiag The later, again. crossing

354

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

handsome

the carried flagstaff

of the East flag

Afirican

Protectorate. Next
I returned morning
to
our

camp

on

the

Tana,
in

where I found that El Hakim

and

succeeded h ad Gtoorge

getting good many

a
a

of the

sheepacross, havingemplc^red
to

number
one

of the
"

Maianga

swim

them

over,

two

men

to

sheep
a

best. slow at very process

The

river

had

fallen

few

inches,but it would
men

need

to

fiedlat

least

another foot before the their loads. The

could attempt the passage with

the river a s after, day of the

across,

was

the stillfialling, we got

remainder

sheep to
could not

the other side. Almost

to rise

before

they

were

the river commenced

and again,
or

we consequently

attempt

to move

t^e catUe

loads.
In the afternoon about

seventy Wakamba,

driven

wards north-

by "mine,
and rope. They three
or

came

to the
over

oppositebank Maranga by
washed

of the river
means so

to cross attempted
were

to

of

our

emaciated, and extremely

were

weak "om

that
the

four of the firstdozen

away
were

drowned. and rope

Suddenlythe

Maranga who
Ndui!" who and

watdi-

ing them
and

raised a shrill cry of "Nduil those of the Wakamba

water

(smallpox)
had

rushingat

already
the river

landed,theydrove them into the

across

again. It seemed
but the

hard to have

the repulse

poor
so

wretches, starving
fiom heavily
the

Maranga

akeady
no

suffered

smallpox that theyhad

There
were

wish to repeat the in

an

experience
advanced could hear

quitea

dozen of the Wakamba

our

stageof confluent smallpox.From

them

camp

we

all night, for several ni^ts. In moaning and wailing the daytimetheyused to come down to the only place at which theycould reach the water, a large flat rock a little

FROM

THE

RIVER

TANA

TO

NAIROBI.

355

which stireain, wajr up sit for hours Three river had determined

was

just awash, where

22nd,

they woidd

themselves laving

with the cool water.

we

on dayslater,

November
some

found that the

we

gone

down

six inches, and

made

effortto get the loads and cattle across.

I shirt,
swam across

to my Stripping

the liver to superintend the

at operations

the

on landing-place

bank, opposite
up
a

I took four
our

or

five men,

and

we

stood in the water the current

was

to

under the bank, where breasts,

little
were

less

and took the loads from the porters, who violent,

exhausted

with the powerfal current, as by their struggle

across.
across

theybroughtthem bringing my
not
camera

Young Koranja annoyed me

under

by
was

water, but then

a

he

r eceived and tall, consequently very the rope

If he surged.

ducking every
my
camera,

time

had

not

had

should have been The climbed branches found

amused highly shout

at his

predicament.
across

better to
a

instructions
on

the

river, I

tree large

that grew
over

the bank, its topmost for

some

hanging out
a

the
seat

water

yards.

such

comfortable

in the

fork,about twelve
at the

feet above

the

surfiEtce of the

water, that I stayedthere

for awhile to rest after the laborious work and place, also to

landingwas

get

view bird's-eye

of all that

goingon.
I Flresently heard a nd puffing
me. some one

swimming,

with

much

down blowing,

the river, and almost underneath

through the Peering

saw

leafy

screen

that surrounded

me,

that
at

in mortal terror, Bamathani, though evidently

had and

last faced the

river,and
to

was

swimming slowly
The landing-place.

down cautiously
was

stream

the

current

under my perch, bringinghim directly though observed

me,

he had

not

and

I derived much

amusement

3S6
"rom

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

the anxious

expression
lie
to

on

his

calm usually

and

pressio ex-

visage.As
me

passedunderneath
out of the

something
so,

suddenly jump impelled with a terrificsplash rightupon landiog

servitor. He gave
a

tree^and I did
my
was

unfortunate almost

which fearful shriek,

a

stant in-

stifledin the surface. When he

gurgle

as

he

b eneath disappeared
wore

came

his tsiM again up

such
way

look of terror that I half "BU)echanged when

o f the repented
me

joke. The

his his

he found
a

swimming quietly by
he

was side, cheerfolly^ smiling

''

studyin expression. perfect

"

Oh, it
an

was
"

Bwana you,

?
a

gasped out.
"

it was

a"eet

(devil) or
to

"

kiboko
race was one

thou^t (hippopotamus).
but he the river,

"

I then

him challenged

across
a

he declined, ordinarily though had had When

most

good swimmer.

He

of the water enough

I

for

day,he said.
that forced rein-

down got
were

to

the

I found landing-place,
our men

of the loads

across,

having been
of them
a

by

some

of the

Maranga.

These

natives disdained could

the rope, and, strange to say,

not

though many
across

swim, theycould carry

60 lb. load

ford 6 feet

deep, thoughtheir own

and in
a

exceeded rarely height

5 feet 6

inches,

usuallya great deal less. They

rather

surmounted

the difficulty time

ingenious manner,
skill, loads then
over

which

at the same

small no required They held the their arms, and

their heads the full

lengthof
little

walked

into the river, some

out

distance upstream. When

they got

of

their

deptii

theywalked
their heads The

on

the

which a hottom, giving jump

brought
breathe. them
to

above

water, when

they wanted

to

heavy load held above their heads

i n steady,
an

enabled

keep

in swift the current. upright position,

crossed They consequently

the river in

series of

jumps.

FROM

THE

RIVER

TANA

TO

NAIROBI.

357

the cnirent between the

bank
two

meanwhile

them carrying
a

down

stream, while
or

the

jumps they walked

It
was
a or

step

two

towards

other
to

side.
see
a

very
a

curious

the firom sight

box large

by roUed-uptent, clasped
own

black hands, apparently the river of its crossing

Our
own men

accord. any

would

not

attempt this method

at

price.
The loads
were

got

across

before

midday, but
of
our

it

was an

hard and hazardous extremely

work, one

best men,

N'yamwezi
In the

named

washed Kati, being unfortunately

away

and drowned. all the loads afternoon, of the

men

I and beingacross, George

and

dozen

and the xmshipped rope, cattle and the get

takingit donkeys
we

further upstream, we
across.

preparedto
the

After

chasing away

smallpoxpatients,
could find, at which old device of

took

up

our

station on

the flatrock
we

abeady mentioned, as

it was
to land

the most
the round
across,
was

suitable placethat
means

cattle.

a tjring By rope the necks of the animals and haulingthem bodily

of

our

we

the safely accomplished Several of the had hauled them

cows

the though task,

were

labour

enormous.

and after we
rock

out

of the
one

drowned, nearly water, lay on the

to all appearance

dead.

Some

t hat suggested haps per-

would artificialrespiration but

as

facilitate their recovery, how unable

to

neither
on

Oeorge
a

or we

I knew
were

performartificial
to

respiration proof. They

I
must

cow,

put
such

it to

the

recovered eventually

without

aid, and

rising slowlyand with

confess that

walked they dif"culty

away,
on

though
their

they

were

very

groggy

pins.
At nine o'clock next of after a thus, delay morning,having started
on

the we Tana, only eight negotiated days,safely

358
our

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

finalmarch to Nairobi
it
was

We

croesed the Marathwa very

below

where M'biri,
(m

breast We

deep and

swift, camping
had

the

bank. opposite time

we

stopped there four days, during

some

which
store

sold the

to sheep

Somalis who

justoutside the Government

went
on a

station.

El Hakim
or

visit to Mr. Hall, and blankets

on

stayed a day
the third

two
a

with him.

I took to my

day

with

of touch slight

I had that w hich, considaing fever,

water

lived in the practically On resumed the

for four

was days,

not

surprising
and
no

morningof November
on

27th,we

broke camp
we

our

thankful that march, exceedingly the march

were

longerhandicapped
sheep.
so

by

the piesenoe

of the

was

still rather mule big

on

shaky Nyiro.

after my

touch of fever, since

I rode the

for the firsttime

leavingthe
we

Green the been

Camp

the Waso
we

The next

day

reached had

Maragua, where
constructed

found

rough

w hich bridge,
was on

who Skene, by Captain

his way

to ITbiri to relieve

The Longfield. Captain

to to

latter had been

ordered

to

Eismayu
was

take

part

in the

Ogaden

Somali

which Expedition We
cows
we

avenge
on

Major

Jennei^s

murder.
Three

crossed
were

camped stolen duringthe afternoon by

and half them
we a

and safely,

the other side. the

but A'kikuyo,

sent Jumbi

dozen without

men

in immediately

pursuit^

and

theyrecovered
Four

dif"culty.
the the river
scene,

days

later
more

reached
on

Thika-Thika.
and
we
a

Congoni once
the antelope,

appeared
had

w^re roan

able to shoot several for first we

were

food,and
seen

I also secured

the during

Besides trip.

congonithere
turns

numbers

of zebras,wildebeeste, wartand Gtoorge

to secure
some

and hog, grantei,

with

thompsonei;and

I, taking

the

shot-gun, managed

guinea-

and occasionally a wild duck. fowl,

FROM

THE

RIVER

TANA

TO

NAIROBI.

3S9

Very heavy rain

Thika

the
a

nightbefore

we

reached

the Thika-

delayed

us

little. We

reached

day the river at midwas

and found it full of water, but the cnrient We slnggish.

of crocodiles. At
a saw a

tively compara-

of couple

number and hippo, any

place where
we

Mien
a

tree

some projected

way

over

the water

constructed
upon
a

rude

t he resting bridge,

centre
was

of
not

the structure

small island in the stream.

was

It

beautiful to look upon, neither

it

over

but it strong; safari crossed the

and duringthe afternoon the whole sufficed,

by

its

means. a

The

cattle the

were

driven

further down

river to

spot where
then
swum

banks

shelved

somewhat, and
interference

they were
from any

across,

without luckily

too

crocodiles. inquisitive

The next

day was

turn Geoige's

to have

touch of fever, We

made which,though slight,

were
now a entering

him

uncomfortable. very

very

of country,traversed marshy piece

by

numerous

rivers and

streams, which

drained

into the

Athi Biver.

Congoniwere
sufficient meat

againnumerous,
beast in *303

and The

we

were

able to shoot

to feed the men.

is remarkably congoni
a

tenacious of life, one trouble. I put two hind the

me particular giving

lot of

soft-nosed bullets into

it; and

one although

leg was

broken, and
a

it

was

also

badly

woundedin the

itmade off at shoulder,

good speed.Taking
more
a

I followed it, Martini, and,when it once

a

I stopped,

put

Martini bullet into it firom behind,at The bullet way struck it in the

hundred-yards'
quarters,and

range.

hind

its ploughed

through almost
beast
as was

the whole
to

lengthof
waste

the

animal's body. The

unable

but still advance, another

kept its feet;and

I cartridge it, upon

was

to unwilling to it and

walked

up

threw it down

by

36o

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

its horns seizing

and
was

its head sharply bat jerking sideways,

cut did it expire.
we

not nntil its throat

On
two

Deoember

5th

reached

papyros

swamp,

about

hundred

defini inyards wide, but apparently continuing

east and

west, so

that

we

could not
a

mardi

round

it. The and

trees

men,

were therefore,

sent to cut
a

path throughit,
of

the by lajring
across

cut
a

reeds and

branches of quantity

the roots

roadway was precarious

the
was

constructed,

for perfectly practicable for cattle. suitable

men

and
sent

loads,but impossible
out

Jumbi, who

f or prospecting in

place to get the evening, havingdiscovered

he

cattle across, returned

a

the

place

some

miles away, which

before thought theymi^t safely Accordingly, negotiate. sunrise next morning, he was sent with the cattle to make the

attempt,while the porters and work,

under in

loads crossed

by the
It
was

temporarypath we
rather ticklish feet of water

had constructed the

as some

day

before.
was

there places

over

six for

the reeds,we
cut

having

to

depend

support
across

on

the

of the elasticity

reeds laid

transversely

the roots, the weaker

places havingbeen strengthened

and brushwood well trodden

by

the addition of branches

down. Jumbi
across, and
was

in s uccessful perfectly
were
on

the getting

cattle and
we

they
some

the other side of the swamp

men

opposite
were

us

time before all the

had crossed ; but

all

across
we

by

ten

o'clock, and, resuming our

an

nether
a

garments,
narrow

proceeded.In

hour

we

had

reached

between river, flowing swiftly A mile up-stream we

a

two
a

walls upright

of

rock.
a

discovered

at crossing-place

spot justabove

waterfall magnificent
water

This fall

was

and the quite100 feet deep,

one

foamed

and

into splashed did not stop

of the most

beautiful glens We imaginable.

362

THROUGH

KIKUYU

TO

GALLA-LAND.

with morning. George and myself, therefore started

on our

the bulk

of the men,
we

seven-mile

tramp.
a

On the way

examined critically
scarecrows
one

each other,and
not

more

ragged
sole of

"^ pair
one
as

would

wish

to see.

The and

of
I

my

boots had

parted from

the upper
a

flapped
on wore

walked, while G^rge lacked boot,and

was so

sole

altogether
soon

his left

walkingon
much

his sock, which

as

throogh,

him causing
our

inconvenience

to

impede materially
ardour Each

progress.

Such trifles, however, were

we

unable to

damp
or

our

as

in Nairobi direction of the tramped along

some spot recalling

well Here

remembered
was

incident

other.

the

where place
on was

I fell into the river the second

ni^t

out.

Further

the

dump

of trees where the

I shot the

and beyond that, was guinea-fowl, again, had bidden fair to

which game-pit
career over

put

summary

end to my

sir

months

before.

What

hardshipsthey seemed
had dwarfed
on

at the

time,

though
and

subsequentevents
Even
our

them

into

nifica insig-

our

long weeks

Nyiro experiences stirring of anxiety in Kikuyuland seemed to

else Everything
we

the Waao

of limbo recede into the the past. suddenly

was

i n the forgotten

last that at thought intoxicating

as

were
a

almost home, and

we

approached
all
were

nearer

to Nairobi

took elation describe o f to feeling impossible anxieties Pain, difficulties,

"

of possession

us.

gotten formomentarily

Our

emotions

were

shared

by
on

the men,

and
a

when cheer

roof the first galvanized and broke forth,

we

appeared

the horizon

hurried forward at increased hove station railway

in the
was

speed.
a an

the Presently

in

and sight, forth

motive locoearas

trucks shunting whistle. splitting

sent goods-yard

Never

there such

musical sound
out
a

that erstwhile discordant

to speech. At length,

long

FROM
we stoiy short,

THE

RIVER

TANA to the

TO

NAIROBI.
our

363

much arrived, that

we

of surprise

friends,
the

who
news manner

had

heard

had

all been

killed in Embe,
some

of the Somali's disaster filteredthrough.

I

having in

mysterious
a

have
as

only

once our

since

such experienced

sense

of
as

relief

I felt on

arrival in Nairobi, and that is now, of

our

I finish this account

journey; and

my
as

only hope
much
as

is

that it will not have wearied the reader half wearied the writer.

it

INDEX
William Chanler,BIr.

ABDUIJiAH

AbdaUah 128 o^ Selim,cle"th AbduUahben 588 842, 8, Aberdue Buige, brawl 50; the, by aMisted A'kikayii, with
return to

12 AbMAHI, BIN AiahaUi, 94

Astor,F.E.G.8., 266 265, 258, 226, 214, 88, 4, Falls, 203 Chanler 829 814, Ohiggers,
"Cinder
359

the, 60; theft at aitemptB of arreet 847 ; the, by stolen sheep three steal the ohief of the, 848;

the, 848; by the, 844;

Heap," The Congoni,24;

ben Cqja

165

life of, of tenacity

12

oowB,859 888 160, Aloes, 185, 158 red, 118; by, attacked Ants, 824 12, ben Selim, Asmani
.58

Sowah, 35 Crane, crested, 247; 212, 50, Crocodiles, siieof,254 808 GK"rdon, Cnmming, Da8TUBI,881
Date 175 palms, 259 155, 20, Desertions,

immense

AthiriTer,26; 85; in flood,

88, in 27, the, fishing 87 the, 86; orossing

Dhnrra,52 arrival Dirito,82;

assists
ns

at

villageof, 82;
animals, 132
;

Baazi,

53

to

drive

252 249, 197, Baboons, B"ob"bs,79

276 ; Somali the oamp, Barri leaves his by attaoked is 277; is pursued, Ismail shoots and 277; pnrsners,

298 of, treachery 12 ben Ali, Dooere 18, Sabok, Doenyo

once

24 ;

in

sight of

Bobli,278 186 4, Lake, Barinffo, 298 ; of, 84 treachery ; Bei Manithn, of, repentance of, 316; insolenoe
329

Doenyo 66 Ebor, Doenyo 66 Egere, Doenyo

more, lol Deika, 136

347

Bh0tan,94

88 25, troubles with, 16 ; Donkeys, 187 eaten by Wakamba, 58 of a, Doti, measnrement 162 o( palm, description Doom

Bilali,14,176 84 Blood-brotherhood,
118, 147
Borana

ceremony

of^

285 ; coontry,

Buflklo horns

hnnt, 151; 296 hy"nas, by destroyed 168 habits of, nomadic Borkeneji, o^ village 208; with, first meeting 209; of, of women 209; temerity their in belief of; 210; chief donkeys, dr68S,228; 228; weapons, relations 224; of, 223; insolenoe 241 the Bendili, of, with
202 ; reappearof ance the, loss Cambus, "4 800 171 fire, Gamp on of,346 mmonr

235 people, of, 192 nerd

the and 2; with, meeting El HAxm, of 86; robbery Tomori people, with enNarlences 116; d^ goods ceros, rhinoshoots a 142; elephants, a scorpion, Utten by 185; ad269; idea, a has bright 245; shoots 292; with a lion, ventore
an

296 elephant^

815 the, EUconono, awkward Elephant,

meeting

with an,

808 296, 139 ; hunting, 142-146, 810 801, foot, Elephant's 187 of, Elgeyo" 186; escarpment 95; of, conntrv, desoription Embe 108; explanation the retreat uom, in, 110 of reverse

Cannibals,

888 Euphorbias, Falls

on

FMls, Alexander Oarl 59 plant, Castor-oil 87 ; HiUs, Chattel 87 of, people

46

the Tana

River, 350
46

character

of

203 Chanler, Falls,

Alexander, Carl Falls,

365

366

INDEX.
mmder Major, Jenner, 215 ot^

27 Nairobi, Falli, 46 Sweinfiirth, Fa11i" diiuiler MeMra., and GibboDfl, Finlaj 57 to,17,18, 81 on, ; with, camp dlfBcultiiw Fire, 171; graiB,188 811 F.B.O.a, Edward, Foa, 84; aoaoia, round Eenia, belt Foreat, 885 North of Kenia, 90;
Formoaa 4 Bay,

J"nnbeniHil]s,87 58 of, measurement Jota, 155, AkmkcffL 105, 11, ben Jumbi 158,234,267 Juma, 14, 176 Kama8IA,136
394 at, 84; fight camp at, Karaigui,

Oalla-lutd, 8
Game Tory nnmerooa, 191 172, ; 150, of;

48; vaat herds

179 of, aoareity in a, 21
;

Earama,147 66 ; firrt oi; flight 84; Kenia, Mount, 0^291; iiorthoC,137 again insight 0f;58 Kibaba,capacii7

Eibuyu,54
843 43, Eilaluma,

abaeiioeoil801
aaTentnre Game-pit,

18; the expediiioii, George joins ci; 88; sickness 26; takes a bath, illness d^ 100; of, narrow esoape Wa'm*thara bostUe drives 115; a with adTentnre 184 ; f^rom oamp, rhinoa shoots 267; rhinooeros,
298 oeros,

842 388; Mount, KinangOT, Kinuthia,^-51 810 of, song Kinyala,

12 Kiongosi,

Kirrimar

258 plain, 11 ; aooooat

GiraiTe himt, 280,285

Kitoma,58 Eolb, Dr., 5, of,156

of death 59;
liftre-

Gilgil,889 118 at, Gnainu, fight 294 eood with, sport Grant's gaseUe,
298 188, Green Gamp, 162, 180 J. 4, D.Sc., Prof. W., Gregory, 206 Guinea fowl, 844 49, Hall, Mr.,

Korai^

51;

accompaniesus,
us

bids 62; of, trepidstkm

848 with, 63; meeting well, makes 104; Eoromo, meeting with, blood4)totheihood with El Hakim, 113

Kota,52 and Kriger

18; MeHts., En^"p,

us, 24 ;

Hamisi
128

ben

death of; 12; Abdullah,

to accompany decide 85 return of;

187 the late Bishop, Hannington, 186 Lake, Hannington, 54, 255 ; an sjudons

22; arrival at, fisnn, Kriger*s

parture de-

from,25 ; return
E:undu.58

to,861

Hippopotamus, 287 284, 261, moment,

Lieut Hohnel,

Kwa-Ngombe,
Ton,

845

Ludwig

4,218
Lbeohm,212
LemoroL
218 85 Leopard,

Honey, Hymas,

53

296,881

81 in, loAKi,noisyreoeption 79 chief ; of, 79 ; into, Imbe, ent^T 80 of of, audacious proposal people
296 Impala, Ismail

279 82 156; : hunt, ; number o^ Lion, adventure with, 292, "1 Hakim's

332,833

Bobli,9; appearanoe Nl)omimurders 93; characterof, terror of, 100; nuki's nephew, to Bmbe, return to refuses 106;
the

of, 98;

Loads, method

16 carrying^ 270 213 of; ; present Lokomogo. 136 Mount, Lolokwe, 353 Oapt, Longfield, of

of troubles iTory,

Bendili, sertati disis it? 118; camped among 258; where 246; fOT, obi Nairto letter 217; of, 212; grief 265 on, 269; his infitaticm, 137 of, 219; 5, Mountains, Loroghi 288 wounded by Barri, o f, immense posseerions 213; Lubo,
129 128, buying,
232

Lorian,3,4;

news

d; 246; tfaestart

to cross reftises jA]fAHMAH0iaT,9; at visit Munithu, to, 57; M^u,

137 52, Lykipiaplateau,

character 93; 83; appearance of; death o( 99; of, 98; wounded, 100 burial of, 100;

Mabogo,52
Makono, Malwa,13
measurement 53 of;

INDEX.

367
is accused of treachery by the Somalia 106; explanationo^ 111 ; 108 ; offers himself as guide. fidelity of,299

Manga,
Marabout

51;

ol^ 56; indispositioii

of,90

greeted by,d49
d9 stork, Maranga, anival at,51 ; abundance frcMn, 59 ; 52 ; departore of food in, method of return to,8i9; peonliar a river of people o^ 856 crossing Maragna river,46; bridge the,47; retom to the,858 Maragna bean,58 Marathwa river.852 Marasnki, death of;128
245

N'doro,341
Neumann,
over

Mr. A. H., 5; influence 89 ; acquaintN'Dominuki of, ance with Dr. Kolb, 155

204Marisi-al-lngwa-Zambo plateao, Marl" 228 tribe, Mar8abit,222 Masai, 242,888

Ngare Mussoor, 336 Ngare Nanuki,837 N^mbe, Mount, 178 Noor Adam, 17; appearance and 94 character of, 880 Nyemps, 186; the old men oi; Obtx,188
Paptbus 26; swamps, 860,861 reeds,

Matem,
Man

oamp

at,62

Petrie,Prof. Flinders. 276

187 escarpment, Mbiri, visH to,852 of BTbn, arrival at, 64; hostiUty natives of, 67 ; an anxious journey, 71 ; the guidesdesert, 74 ; farewell

260, Photography under difficultiesy

262 Pig, 254

the, 9 Porters,selecting the, 8 Provisions, selecting

to,73

Python,narrow

escape from,207

Metiuna,52; matindi,58 Midges, attacked by,178 Milindi,81 54 Milk, method of adulteration of, Mineral spring, 161 ; salts, 162 Mogogodo,181 845 Mogorcmiriver, Mosavi, route across, 81

Baut, 801, 812 Bamathani,13,177,809;frightof;856 Bats,troubled by,1 17 nomadic habits of,168 ; no Bendili, signs of,200; encampment, 203; of. 211; ohieft, arrival at village 215 ; trading with the, 218 ; flocks, Morio trees, 185, 160 216; settlements of the,221 ; appearance and dress of the,227 ; ornaments, ^Morning Whifi^*' terrible results 55 89 ; nirther experiences of the,228 ; with, ci, 228; women fondness for children of the,229 ; M'thara, arrival at, 90; purchasing food in, 91 ; description of camp to falsehood of thc^ 281 ; propensity the, 282, 288; at, 98; can^ in danger, 104; smallpox among of the, of food in, 113; 285 ; love getting supplies fighting qualities 236 ; love of tobacco of beg^ngof, 148; bad news departure nom, 238; from,297 ; return to the oamp at, of,236; household utensils, 302; ftkiewell 289; to,881 saddlery, 239; weapons, dread of the of 240 Muhindi,52 the, ; courage 78 Masai of the, 241; return to the Mules, 19 ; accident to one of the, Mumoni the 47 Hills, 268; fortifying camp, camp,

Mumunye,

fhnn the,274 Munipara, Munithn, arrival at, 84 ; departure BendiU sheep,198, 284 of porters, 16 from,84; return to, 116; storyof Begistration the pillaged Besarse ben Sbokar,12,824^881 ture goodsat, 116 ; deparjured from,131 ; attack on, 319 Bhinoceros,Lieut von Hohnel inMwele, 52 by a, 4 ; a delicate situation, 28; encounters with, 84, 45, 149 164 27 ; falls, of; Nairobi,1,2,6,8,9;river, disposition pugnadons 182 nunton 173 ; hunt, 27; the return to,362 mule-back, shot by "1 Hakim, 185 ; shot by Naivasha,838 }rdizi,58 author, 186; hunt, 198; large ture numbers of,250, 258,257 ; advenracter Kl"oininuki,chief of M'thara,chawith a, 255; disturbed at of, 89; dedining influence

53 11

275; departure 273; burial places,

368

INDEX.

nidit by, S60; tbot bj G"org6, ^ bant, 295, 341 Lake, 4, 5, 58 Rudolph,
31 Sabaki liTer, 8"di ben Heri,11 ; death of,128

Uii[BS,52 yiAzz,52 Victoria Kyania, Lake, 1, 7

Yikwer, 52

yiseli,132
Wa^Cbavjb.
816 visitof the, Wa'Embe, deoislim to pnnish the, 94; plan of attw^ 95; the start, 96; ambash by the, 96; the Bor-

8agana,45

8i^

faQare to prooore, 179 ;

large

233 plainof; Sand riTen, 200,290 212 Band rats,

8eton-Karr, Mr^ 276 387 Sirimon riyer, Sbeba, Moont, 164 from the Bendili, 268 ; Sheep,bajring death of minj of the, 314 ; the
of diipoeal
*"
,

tradingwith the,268 keneji Wa'Gnainn, pillageof

the, 116
make Uoodbrotheriiood with as, 81 Wa'Imbe, cordial grw^ngof the,79: with the,80; andasion confuence
to of the, 80 proposal Wa'kwafl, 186 Wakamba characteristios portera, oi; 7
oar

goods by

Wa'Igani, desire

358

Sherlock Hdmee," 13; iUnetao^ 842 840; death of, naeftilhints on, 146 Shooting,

Skene^

358 Captain,

SmaUooz, 59,232, 238, 354 of 17 ; news SomaU caraTan, start of, the,83; attacked bj the Wa'Bmbe, With leaders of, oonferenoe 84; 98; friction with, 141; meeting with pcnrtion of,201 ; dinster to the,217; the alarm in the, 271; the panic in the,272 810 Song of Kinyala, Spot,death of,263 Soliman, 12 ; desertion of,259 character of, 7 Swahili porters, 46 Sweinf nrth Fails,
178, 291 Swamp Oainp, 79 Sycamores, rifer, 4, 45; the source of the, to 348; flooded,350; atteiiq"to cross the,351, 355; across the,857 Teleki, Gonnt Samnd, 4
Tana

Waller^s

205 gaieUe,

WalCbo, bad chanofcer of the, 57; of the, lity 65; renewed hostihcstiUty of tiie, 67; interview with the chiefii of,69; captureof the ohiefr
to the, 78 of,69; fihrewell of the,179; Waodctobbo, desoription 19i; language of the,181 ; goides, desertion of the guides,195 Wangwana, 7 chamcteritWaN'yam-wesi porters, 7 tiosof,

Wargasse, Mount,
Waso

136

mardi to Nyiro,3, 4 ; tiring dimate oi;175 ; the, 160 ; splendid desdato landscapeon the, 249;

Thika-Thika

17 ; crossing the, rirer, 42 ; building 292 a bridge across the,359 criptionWa*Zuka, cordial reception 8 ; desF.B.G.8., Thompson, Joseph, l^ the, of Kenia by, 66 ; descrip75 tion of Masai by,242, 882, 338 Weapons, listof our, 9, 10 88 ; terribleexperience Whistling Thorn forest, 382 trees, 205 with thorns, Witoh""^ 340

of 291 the source the, crossing ; the,338 Washenzi,7 Waterbuck, 184 ; capture of young,

Ticks, abnndanoe

of,28

Wild

292 dogs,

Tikiti,53
Tomori 85 people, 15 Trade goods,list of, 31 TsaTO river, 222 Tnrkana people,
THl

ZAlfnBAB,7 Zebra,38, 43, 886,841 75 ; camp Zuka, entey hito, Zura, welcome at,81
EHD.

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fiDEX
t
3" 19.
22

OF
I Banks

AUTHORS
Pag*; (M.M.)-

AND
-

EDITORS.
Page 36 Dallinger(F. W.) 6 Dauglish (M. G.) Davenport (A.) ^o 30
Davidson
-

(C. L.) 24 ] Burns Burrows (Montagu) Baring-Gould (Rev. 17,18 ; S.)21,38 Butler (E. A.) Barnett A. and (Rev. Lewis) ao (S. \ Campbell H.) '7;
-

5 9 25

p.)

3 32
1

Baynes (T. S.)-

38

21, 22,

38
3 9
I
I '

(A. M. C.) 22 (W. L.) 17, 20,21

-

Mof)'
"rd)

32

Beaconsfield (Earl of) 25 Beaufort (Duke of)i2, 13, 14 Becker (W. A.)

Chesney
Chisholm

(Sir G.) (G. C)

-

F.) Davies(J.

22

Childc-Pemberton(W.S.)
-

31
1^ 13

13 15
30
.

Beesly(A. H.)

Cholmondeley-Pcnnell
(H.)
-

Dent (C. T.) De Salis (Mrs.) De Tocqueville(A.)

-

14

36
4

3
15

Bell (Mrs. Hugh) Bent (J.Theodore) Besant (Sir Walter)

-

Devas(C. S.)

19,
-

20 4

36
35
22

17

!htd)

11,23 3
-

36
3i
20 21

31 9.17

9, 20,

38
3

t, :
I
-

25 3 17

38
-

.)

II,

12

13.21

Christie (R. C.) 38 Dickinson (G.*L.) Churchill (Winston S.) (W. H.) 4, 25 22 Cicero (L.) Dougall 14. 15 Bickerdyke(J.) .J Dowden R. Clarke F.) (E.) Bird (G.) (Rev. 23 "9, Blackburne (E. J.) H.) Doyle(Sir A.Conan) (J. 15 ( Climenson Du Bois(W. E. B.)Bland (Mrs. Hubert) Clodd (Edward) 21,30 24 Blount (Sir E.) 12 I Dunbar (Mary F.) 9I Clutterbuck(W. J.)(E.) Boase (Rev. C. W.) 6 IColenso(R. 36 Dvson J.) Ellis (I. H.) Boedder (Rev. B.) Conin^ton 23 (John) 19 (R. L.) Bonnell (H. H.) 38 Cony beare( Rev. W.J.) (Dean) Booth " Howson (A. J) 33 Erasmus 38 Rvans II (Sir A. (W. B.) Bottome John) Coolidge (P.) 25 Falkiner (C. L.) S .) Bowcn Corbett (W. E.) 4 (Julian 9 1 32 I Farrar (Dean) Coutts (W.) II 20, Brassey (Lady) ' Fitzmaurice (Lord E, .) Cox (Harding) 13 Bright (Rev. J.F.) 3 Folkard (H. C.) A. Broadfoot Crake (Rev. D.) 32 (MajorW.) 13 Ford(H.)Brooks Crawford (J.H.) 25 17 (H.J.) Fountain (P Brown Creed (A. F.) (S.) 25 32 Fowler (Edith H.) Creii^hton Bruce (R. L) ,6,9 (Bishop) -4, 3 Buckland Cross (A. L.) (las.) 5 Francis (Francis) -^" Crosier (M. E.) Buckle (H. T.)1 B.) (I. 17 9. 3 1 6 Freeman (Edward E. Rull (T.) Cutis (Rev. A.) L.) 36 Fremantle (T. F.) Dabnev Burke (U. R.) P.) (J. 23 3 Frost (G.)4 ones (Sir K.) 36 Dale(L.) Burne-J
-

38
25 40
25 5

I
,

25
26

"

1517

3?
4 26 4

16 26
16 26 6
i("

3E"

INDEX

OF
Pig*

AUTHORS
Page
^ -

AND
Nichols (F. M.)
Oakesmith 6
-

EDITORS"

eowftmieif.
(A. G.)
-

^".,j Steel
Mrs.)

W.) (Sir I, Kaye (James A.) 4,9,11,26 Proude (C.F.; Keify 5 (F. W.) Fuller KeUy(E.)30 Furneaux (W.) B.
-

(J.)
" -

Ogilvie(R.)
OidEekl
Osboume Packard (Hon. 9 18 6 11,14
-

Stephen (Leslie) Stephens (H. Uonct

(Samuel R.) Gardiner

.

Kent

(C.

R.)

Hardy (Hod. Gatborae16 15. A. E.) (Rev. CunnincGeikie ham)

...
-

(F.) Kielmansegge Knight (E. F.) Kd8tlin(J.)

Kristeller (P.)

(L.)

Sternberg

(Cooat
-

Killick (Rev. A. H.) Kiichin (Dr. G. VV.)

"

(A. S.) Paget (Sir J.)

. -

38
-

GilMoo(C. H.) G. R.) (Rev. Glei" Grmham (A.)

-

17
"

10

Park (W.) Parker (B.)

Adalbert) ^ Ste\-ens (R. W.) (R. L.) 35. 28.33 Stevenson 17 (F.) Storr 16) (A.J J z^ x^ Stuart- Wortlev
... . . -

10

"

37 18

(Sir Payne-Gallwisy
R.)
-

14 Pearse 16, 6 14, ,13, (Andrew) Lang (P. A.) 14 Peek (Hedley) ao 39 32, 27. 23, ai. 22, F.) (G. S. (W. if Pemberton 5 of) 15 T.) (G. SuUyCjamea) (Marquess Lapaley Granby I 9 G) and 6 Childe-) (A. Sutherland 17 (S. S.) Laurie Gram (Sir A.) 33 H.) (H. "B Penrose 19" 30 (Alex.) 9 W.) (F. Lawrence P.) (R. Graves 28 la. (C.) 40 18 PhiUipps-WoUey 36 (G.) L. Sidney) ijt (H. Hill) Lear (T. Green H.) 19 (A. Pierce (B. voo) Suttner 6.18.33 E. H.) 5 Lecky (W. Greene (E. B.)n (W.) Pole 12 Swan (M.) 5 Lees (J. A.) Greville (C. C. F.) H.) 13, if PoUock (W. J.) ai (A. z8 Swinburne A.) Grose (T. H.) Leighton(j. Mrs.) and *a Poole (W.H. E^ 20 (J. Syroes 5 LesIie(T.E.CUfle)Gross (C.) Poore (G. V.) 10 xi Lieven (Princess) Grove (Lady) 7 Portman (L.) 16 Tail(J.) 13 LiUie(A.). (Mrs. Lilly) G4 (S. (E.) Powell Tallentyre 31 9 Guiney(L. L) P. L.) M.) (E. (Mrs. 16 Tappan Powys 26 (C. D.) Camilla) Locock Gurdon (Lady Meadows) Rosamond) (CoL Tavkn(S. 6 Praeger 18 (H. C.) Lodge GomhiU(J.) W.) T.) (J. (R. Thomas Pritcbett 6 W. J.) 31 I^ftie (Rev. Gwilt (J.) (H. C.) 35 A.) 30, 17, Thomson (R. Proctor 16 12. J.) Rider) (C. Longman Haggard (H. (W. J.j ThomhiU 6 16 Raine (Rev. James) II, a6. 27, 38 (F. W.) so (T. H.) Thcnnton 24 10 13. 15 RarnaKW.) H.) (G. 40 HaUiweU-PhiUippHM.) F.) iH. Thuillier 7 (C. 37 F.) H. B.) 5 (Mrs. C.J.) " Randolph Hamilton (Col. Todd (A.) 2S 6 8, 36 Lowell (A. L.) Rankin (R.) Hamlin (A. D. F.) 7 8 (T. Tout F.| 22 3. (Cyril) 3 Ransome Lucian m Harding (S. B.) 18 Toynbee(A.' 9 (W.) 14 (A. C.) 13, LutosUwski Reid(S.J.t Ha msworth Trevelyan(SirG.O.) 23 32 27 27, Rhoade8(J.) Lyall (Edna) Harte(Bret) 6. 7. "."."" 13 6 Rice (S. P.) 15 (G.) E.)Lynch 7.i Harting(]. (G.M.) 12 33 Rich (A.) F.B.)30 (H. af Hartwig(G.) (Anthony)Trollope 8 19 24 (Emais) Richmond of) (Earl Lytton HassalKA.) 40 G.) (ri. Turner 19 John) 36 9. (Rev. R.) Rickaby u Haweis(H. 6,7,10,24 (Lord) f. Macaulay TyndaUg.) 37 (Rev. Jorcph) Head (Mrs.) 34 G.) (I"r. -ti,a3 Macdooaki Y.) (R. TyrreU Alice) (Lady 17 Ridley G. (D. D.) Heath 37 A.) (Sir Macfarren 34 W.) 14 (J. 40 Riley (J.M.) Heathcote W.) -10,23 MackaiKJ. Unwin(Rj 33 (E. P.) 14 Roberts 16 Bertha) S3 G.) (C. (C. G.) UpUm(F.K.azid Mackenzie 37 (W. G.) 11 Robertson 7 (N.) Mackinnon (J.) 20, 31 17 M.) (Peter 30 Roget (Hermann Helmholtz VanD"ke(J.C.) (H. D.) Macleod 37 10, 19,31,24 (G. N.) J.) Romanes (". 30 von) 15 Vanderpoel Macpherson(Rev.H.A.) 10 G. 33 J.) (Mrs. 16 (LieutVirgil Henderson (D. H.) Madden 17 1 (A.) F. 9 Ronalds G. 38 R.) Col. (E.) t^ Magnusaon 6 j (R.) 14 Wagner (T.) Roosevelt 19 Henry (W.) " Maher (Rev. M.) 28 O.) (H. { Wakeman Ross (MarUn) 32 (G. A.) 7 Mallet (B.) Henty j 19 B.) (L. FranWallord (Maria 9 Roasetti 6 N.) (Mrs. G. B.) Higgins Malleson (Col. 10 Wallas 40 (Graham) 5 1 10 cesca) mn (Mabel) (Baron de) Marbot ja Graham)(Mrs. 36 A.) (M. 13 Rotheram (G. Lacy) Hillier 37 (A. W.) Marchment 10 8. (Sir Spencer) 14 P. 22 P.) (R. Rowe Walpole W. L.) (H. Hime C.) 9 Marshman (J. 10 10 18 (Horace) Russell (Lady)39 Hodgson (Shadworth) (M.) la Maryon H.) (CoL 1 Walrond 38 18 37 Sandars (T. C.) Hoenig(F.) (A. E. W.) Mason 14 (Lord) Walsiogham 9 16 Sanders (E. K.) F.) 9 (J. N.) Hogan Maskelyne(J. ' Ward a9 W.) (Mrs. 10 (R. R.) Holmes 39 (6.) Matthews Sa\'age-Armstrong(G.F.)25 of) 40 (Countess Warwick 22 Homer 37 31 Scott (F.J.) (S.) Maunder 13, 14 E. T.) xa, (A. Watson 27 lo 8, (Anthony) (F.) Seebohm Miiller (F.) Hope Max 40 (J.) Weathers 22 17 12. Horace 39 22t 27, (F. C.) 21, Seloua 18. 20. to, Mrs. and (Mr. Webb 5 (D. F.) Houston 15 Erskine) 7 13, T. (W.) Senior (Sir ao May Sidney) 8 27 (Lady Mabel) Howard 32 Seton-Karr(Sir H.)(L. T.) Meade 40 T.i II (Judge 28 ) M.) 27 HowitKVV Sewell (Elizabeth Melville (G. J. Wh)ie) if (T. t.) 30 (W. H.) 40 Hudson 7 Merivale (Dean) ShadwelKA.) 19 Weber (A.) 37 35 (M. B.) Huish 'H. S.) 27 Merrimm Shake""peare 14 R.) Weir (Ca"t. 8 37 20 18. (W. A.) Shaw Stuart) Hullah().) Mill (John of) 37 (Dvchess 18 Wellington (David) 13, 16. Hume (M.) 13 30 Shearman Millaie 0. G.) C. J3 E.)(M. Wemy 3 28 (M. A. S.) 40 (P. A.) Sheehan (G.) Milner ag ii 6 (Stanley) 8 We"Tn VV.) (Rev. Hunt H. 19 Sheppard (E ) S.) (W. Monck 17,19 6 Whately(.Archbishop) (Sir W.) 14 Hunter 7 (A.) Sinclair (F. C.) Montague 23 (R.) Whitelaw G.) (Horace 9 Hutchinson H.) 31 (F. Skrine (T.) Moore 40 10 17 13, 16, 27, 38 I Fell) Smith (C. (Rev. Edward) 23 Wilkins(G.) 8 23 21 (lean) Ingelow (R. Bosworth) Lloyd)
" -

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Ladd(G.

T.)

14.

40|Stubbs (J.W.)'. (W.)i 16

Suffolk "

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(H. H. S.)

Berkshire 6i (fiarlot) 141 Sullivan (Sir E.)

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James (W.) Anna) (Mrs. Jameson 'efferies (Richard)

18, 21
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WiUich (C. M.) (Rev. J. G.) Wood (W. G.) Wood-Martin

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Wyatt(A.J.)

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Yeats (S. Levett) Yoxall 0. H.)

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