POETS, PRIESTS AND PUBS

SWANSEA
WALK
BY PAUL BARRETT
CTNW
visitwaleschurches

SWANSEA WALK
T
he lovely, ugly town of Swansea is the
birthplace of Dylan Marlais Thomas, one of the
most famous poets writing in the English language
in the Western World during the twentieth century. Whilst he
was loved for his poetry, many of those that came into contact
with him disliked his behaviour, which fuelled his image as a
bad boy. Together with his propensity for drinking, it all adds up
to an image of a poet that many romanticise about. Perhaps he
was the first and only superstar poet of our age.
Dylan (as everyone seems to know him) was born in Swansea
on 27 October 1914, and lived at 5, Cwmdonkin Drive,
Uplands, until he was twenty. During this period he wrote
approximately two thirds of all his poetry together with many
of his short stories and copious letters. He died on November
9, 1953 in St Vincents Hospital, New York after a monumental
drinking binge. His wife, Caitlin, travelled with the embalmed
body in a coffin back to Britain and on the voyage she is
reported to have seen sailors playing cards on the coffin
which all adds to the myth.
Swansea moved Dylan to write some of his most famous work,
such as the poem The Hunchback in the Park
The hunchback in the park
A solitary mister
Propped between trees and water
From the opening of the garden lock
That lets the trees and water enter
Until the Sunday sombre bell at dark.
1 Designed by Anthony Dominguez and Maps drawn by Tom Coates
SWANSEA
T
he name Swansea is thought to come from
the Norse, Sveyns Ey, meaning Svens
Island in Welsh it is called Abertawe, the
mouth of the Tawe River. Some historians believe that Vikings
settled here in the tenth century and then used the site as a
base for harrying the rest of the coast.
The Normans built a stone
castle here in the early
thirteenth century, which led to
a flourishing settlement and in
medieval times the town became
famous for its leather and wool.
Already by the 17th century the
town had also became
important as a port that
exported coal and iron and by the 19th century it was playing
a major part in Britains Industrial Revolution, becoming a hub
of the metalworking industry.
Because of its industrial importance, the city was heavily
bombed during the Second World War and Dylan wrote a short
story Return Journey in which he bemoans the loss of the
town that he turned his back on in his youth.
After the war, Swansea had to come to terms with the post-
industrial era and this walk is, we think, a good example of how
the now-city is dealing with this combining the best of the
old with the new, at the same time paying homage to Dylan.
2
THE ROUTE
Estimated distance 3 miles
Estimated time 3 hours
S
tart at St. Davids Church in the city centre and where
better to start a walk than at a church dedicated to the
patron saint of Wales?
St. David is the only Welsh saint (apart from St. Patrick, who
came originally from Wales) to be canonised in the Western
Church and he has been the patron saint of Wales since the
12th century. It is thought he was born around 550 and that
he died in 589 or 601 after founding a monastery in the area of
Pembrokeshire, which now bears his name.
This is a catholic church which was originally established in
1802, when the Abbe Sejean, who was once a chaplain to Louis
XVI, settled in Swansea after the French Revolution. The present
church dates from 1847 and contains many features like a
library, where one can browse or borrow books and an organ
gallery, specially constructed for organ music.
Turn Left out of the Church
and at the end of the lane
Turn Left again and walk
into the pedestrian area, past
St. Marys Church, which we
will return to at the end of
the walk.
Turn Left into the indoor
Quadrant Shopping Centre
and Swansea Indoor Market
is immediately on your
Right.
3
SWANSEA INDOOR MARKET
T
his is the largest indoor market in Wales, with over 100
stalls - some selling cockles, laverbread and fresh fish that
is landed daily. The market also has locally produced bread, such
as the Swansea batch, as well as many butchers who sell Welsh
lamb and beef. Local growers bring their vegetables, when they
are in season, from the Gower Peninsula to
make this something quite special, if you are
a foody or not.
Take the Oxford Street
entrance out of the
market and Turn Right
to follow Oxford Street up
to Castle Gardens.
Cross the gardens to what
remains of the castle
4
SWANSEA CASTLE
T
he castle stands on a cliff top above the former course of
the River Tawe, where it held a strategic position
commanding the lowest crossing of the river, which was the
main east-west route in south Wales. At the same time it
overlooked the important harbour below.
What is in evidence today is only a small portion of the castle,
which in the late 13th century stretched from Welcome Lane in
the north to Caer Street in the south, and from the cliff top in
the east, almost to Princess Way in the West.
Turn Right down Wind Street where there are several drinking
establishments, if you are already feeling thirsty.
At the bottom of Wind Street take the underpass to Somerset
Place, which is in the Maritime Quarter
5
THE MARITIME QUARTER
T
his award-winning urban regeneration project
has been designed around the former South
Dock and its Half-Tide Basin. The area now has over
1000 homes, workshops, pubs and shops and it also includes
a conservation area of Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian
buildings, of which fifteen are listed. Incorporated into the new
public buildings are a series of sculptures that celebrate
Swanseas maritime and industrial heritage.
At the end of Somerset Place, the Dylan Thomas Centre is on
your Left.
6
THE DYLAN THOMAS CENTRE
T
he centre was refurbished in 1995 to host the British Year
of Literature. This fine building would be lacking if it did not
have a permanent exhibition on Dylan and his life, together
with a shop full of books, posters and memorabilia. The Centre
is also home to a literature programme which puts on many
literary events throughout the year, including the annual Dylan
Thomas Festival during October and November.
Coming out of the Dylan
Thomas Centre, you will
see the Sail Bridge, which
is facing you. Cross this
bridge.
7
THE SAIL BRIDGE
T
he Sail Bridge is one of two new pedestrian/cycle bridges
which link the new SA1 Swansea waterfront development
with the existing maritime quarter and city centre. The bridge
measures 142 metres long, weighs a total of 292 tonnes and
features a vast 40 metre high mast. The central pier, sunk deep
into the riverbed, anchors the mast in position. The sweeping
design of the bridge with its curved deck, inclined central mast
and radiating cables, was built to resemble a yachts rigging and
creates an impressive sail-like appearance linking the banks of
the River Tawe.
At the end of the Sail Bridge, on your Left
you can see the Ice House
8
THE ICE HOUSE
T
his building with its idiosyncratic stack
is Grade II listed. Constructed originally
around 1880 for the production of ice and
associated cold storage for shipping, it has accommodation on
three levels
It is now being refurbished to house a restaurant/bar and five
apartments.
Opposite the Ice House you
can cross the road to the
Norwegian Church.
9
THE NORWEGIAN CHURCH
T
here has been a Norwegian community in Swansea for
hundreds of years and it probably reached its peak in the
early 1900s, when Scandinavian ships regularly came here to
deliver Redwood pit props for the local mines and, in turn, were
loaded with coal.
The Norwegian sailors, who had to wait on land here for up to
2 weeks at a time, were religious people and originally attended
church services in the town in a sail makers loft at the bottom
end of The Strand. In 1910 the Newport Mission church was
closed because of its proximity to Cardiff and the building
dismantled. It was then re-erected at the Prince Charles Dock,
Swansea, where the Church was an immediate success.
However, after the Second World War, the port slowly but
surely declined, and in 1966 the churchs minister was ordered
to leave the Mission and return to Norway. Nevertheless, the
citys resident Norwegian community decided to take on the
running of the building themselves. But thirty years later, in
1998, the last working Norwegian Seamens Mission in Britain
closed.
Fortunately, today the building has been restored to its former
glory.
Retrace your steps to the Ice
House and then Turn Left
down Kings Road, or
alternatively, Turn Left at the
river behind the Ice House and
follow it to the Lock Bridge.
10
MISSION GALLERY
M
ission Gallery is a 19th century
converted seamen's mission and
another reminder of Swanseas maritime
heritage. Formerly the church of St. Nicholas
and now one of Wales premier venues for contemporary art, it
is well worth a visit.
At the end of Gloucester Place on the left hand corner is the
Queens Hotel, which is still quite faithful to the time it was the
home of sailors, smugglers and snitches. Enjoy a drink here.
If you have been to the Queens Hotel, now retrace your steps
to the Dylan Thomas Square and the Dylan Thomas Theatre.
12
LOCK BRIDGE
11
T
his new bridge is the second of the two new
pedestrian/cycle bridges crossing the River Tawe. As we
cross over it, we can see how near it is to the barrage at the
mouth of the River Tawe with one section spanning the lock
gates and opening and closing at the same time as these lock
gates. In order to construct the bridge, it was brought in by sea
in one piece on the largest floating crane barge in the UK.
Be aware that this bridge sometimes
closes for short periods to allow craft in
and out of the marina.
Having crossed the bridge, Turn Right
and with the Custom House and Sea
Cadets buildings on your left and the river
on your right, follow the quay around as it
goes left. You will soon have the Marina
building on your left. Continue walking
alongside the water and you will have a
boat builders on your left.
You are now on Fishmarket Quay, with
shops and a cafeteria on your left. Turn
Right onto Abernethy Quay and you will come to the statue
of Dylan Thomass blind Captain Cat. He is looking towards the
swing bridge which you should now cross over into the
Pumphouse Square. Once a pumphouse for the lock system, it
has been turned into a pub and restaurant, where you may
wish to stop.
Otherwise, simply walk through the cobbled square and you
will have before you the Mission Galley in Gloucester Place,
which has a row of lovely Georgian houses across the road from
the gallery.
MISSION GALLERY
M
ission Gallery is a 19th century
converted seamen's mission and
another reminder of Swanseas maritime
heritage. Formerly the church of St. Nicholas
and now one of Wales premier venues for contemporary art, it
is well worth a visit.
At the end of Gloucester Place on the left hand corner is the
Queens Hotel, which is still quite faithful to the time it was the
home of sailors, smugglers and snitches. Enjoy a drink here.
If you have been to the Queens Hotel, now retrace your steps
to the Dylan Thomas Square and the Dylan Thomas Theatre.
12
THE WATERFRONT MUSEUM
14
A
fusion of Welsh steel, slate and glass, with a canopied
street of cafes and shops overlooking the waterfront, this
is quite a different experience for visitors; with over 100 state
of the art interactive displays that use the latest in computer
technology. Besides the hi-tech, there also many exhibits,
ranging from a Welsh coracle and The `Canning` tugboat, to a
splendid working woollen mill.
By doing this, the
museum brings Wales
and its industrial and
maritime heritage to life
for visitors of all ages. If
visitors have forgotten,
they will be reminded of
the important part that
Wales played in the
world during the
Industrial Revolution
Exit the museum at the marina entrance and walk past three
ships that are part of the exhibition and which are on your Left.
These are: -
The Canning, a steam tug
The Olga, a Bristol Channel pilot cutter with sails
Helwick, a lightship
At the Helwick Turn Right and follow the sign for the city
centre, which takes you behind the Waterfront Museum, beside
the leisure centre.
You will then come to traffic lights that will enable you to cross
into Princess Way. Walk straight on up this road and you will
see St. Davids indoor shopping centre on your Left
and just after this and still on the Left,
you will come to St. Marys Church.
THE DYLAN THOMAS THEATRE
T
he Dylan Thomas Theatre is home to Swansea's very own
Little Theatre group. The company was originally based in
the Mumbles and counted the man himself amongst their
number in the early 1930's. The large mural that decorates the
exterior of the building features a life size portrayal of Dylan
Thomas against a background of Venetian buildings and
seascapes along with a variety of theatre props. The theatre has
its own exhibition on the poet/author.
In the square is a statue of Dylan sat in a captains chair looking
out to sea. On your left you should now have the marina and
on your Right is the extremely attractive
Waterfront Museum. Admission is free, so why
not have a look?
13
THE WATERFRONT MUSEUM
14
A
fusion of Welsh steel, slate and glass, with a canopied
street of cafes and shops overlooking the waterfront, this
is quite a different experience for visitors; with over 100 state
of the art interactive displays that use the latest in computer
technology. Besides the hi-tech, there also many exhibits,
ranging from a Welsh coracle and The `Canning` tugboat, to a
splendid working woollen mill.
By doing this, the
museum brings Wales
and its industrial and
maritime heritage to life
for visitors of all ages. If
visitors have forgotten,
they will be reminded of
the important part that
Wales played in the
world during the
Industrial Revolution
Exit the museum at the marina entrance and walk past three
ships that are part of the exhibition and which are on your Left.
These are: -
The Canning, a steam tug
The Olga, a Bristol Channel pilot cutter with sails
Helwick, a lightship
At the Helwick Turn Right and follow the sign for the city
centre, which takes you behind the Waterfront Museum, beside
the leisure centre.
You will then come to traffic lights that will enable you to cross
into Princess Way. Walk straight on up this road and you will
see St. Davids indoor shopping centre on your Left
and just after this and still on the Left,
you will come to St. Marys Church.
END AT ST MARYS CHURCH
F
ounded in the 12th century, this is the largest church within
the Swansea and Gower district. It was founded by the
Knights Hospitallers around 1165, and attended for hundreds
of years mainly by the Welsh-speaking inhabitants of the town.
Now you can have a cup of tea or coffee here, listen to concerts,
admire the architecture and stained glass windows, besides, of
course, worshipping here.
15
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