Study the past if you would define the future. Confucius. With the recent release of the YSL biopic I thought this would be an appropriate time to look to the past to understand what the greats have done that have raised certain brands to iconic status.
There are few words that come to mind after reviewing the biographies of distinguished designers, they include and are not limited to fearless, imaginative and curious. It is the ability to seek inspiration from all facets of life, thinking about the product experience and putting the needs of the consumer at the heart of their brands that have allowed these businesses to thrive.
In this edition I have focused on a few famous designers who have had a huge impact on the history of fashion. What makes these select few the most remarkable is that the successors of these brands continue to look at innovative ways to stay current instead of relying on the past to grow their businesses.
Happy reading,
Lauren Turner Yves Saint Laurent
History: Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent commenced his fashion career working under Christian Dior, progressing to head designer at 21- an honour virtually unheard of in the fashion world at such a tender age. In 1960 he was renounced by Dior and set about creating his own namesake label, Yves Saint Laurent. The house become famous for breaking boundaries. Inspired by artist Piet Mondrians minimalistic primary colour paintings, he created the iconic Mondrian print shift dress. He put women in le smoking suits a look which forged the path for women to wear androgynous clothing. His runway shows were also the first to feature Asian and African models.
Contemporary: A label constantly marred with controversy, the current Creative Director Hedi Slimanes first port of call when appointed in 2012 was to rebrand the label Saint Laurent Paris, a change that unsettled many a fashion blogger and critic. Slimane continued to ruffle feathers, entering into a slagging match with Cathy Horyn of The New York Times and rapper Kanye West. West subsequently recorded a song about the experience titled I am a God.
MEC opinion: The label Yves Saint Laurent ignores society norms to forge its own fashion footprint which often involves empowering woman through their clothing. Coco Chanel
History: Coco Chanel opened her first store, a millinery shop, in 1910 in Paris. With business booming she launched her first perfume, Chanel No 5, in 1922. This was the first time a designers name would be featured on a perfume. In 1924 Chanel borrowed a piece of sportswear from her lover and upon wearing it realised how comfortable the tweed fabric was. It was from this moment that the classic Chanel tweed suit was born. In 1926 Coco Chanel published a picture of a short, simple Black dress in American Vogue, taking the LBD from a dress specifically worn for mourning to desirable eveningwear. Other iconic pieces include the 2.55 quilted bag, the Breton top, faux pearls, quilt stitched ballet flats and sailors bell bottoms.
Contemporary: Chanel remains an impeccable fashion house, still producing incarnations of the classic tweed suit and faux pearls. The label has remained current by selecting up and coming superstars to be the face of the brand. Previous iconic spokespeople include Kate Moss and Jerry Hall.
MEC opinion: Clever branding tactics implemented by the Chanel business and its head designers have ensured that the brand manages to retain its iconic classic style, whilst simultaneously remaining mysterious and unpredictable. Diane Von Furstenberg
History: Diane von Furstenberg (DVF) introduced the iconic wrap dress to the world in 1972, revolutionising American fashion by providing an item designed specifically for the working woman. The dress quickly became a symbol for womens sexual liberation and by 1976 over 5 million wrap dresses had been sold. In the early 90s Von Furstenberg launched a cosmetics line and a home shopping business, the latter selling $1.2 million of products within two hours. Since then DVF has collaborated with other labels to launch the following; a fine jewelry collection with H Stern, a childrens range with Gap and denim range with Current/Elliot.
Contemporary: In order to celebrate 40 years of the wrap dress DVF has launched the series, Journey of a Dress. The project features fashion influencers such as Jessica Stein of Tuula Vintage taking the wrap dress on a global tour, passed from one fashionista to the next. In June 2014 Von Furstenberg launched a high-fashion line of Google Glass making the product more stylish.
MEC opinion: DVF has always looked at ways to enhance the lives of the average women by providing pieces of attainable glamour. DVF has created products that easily fit into everyday life and are useful for the target audience, which has cemented her status as a dependable and desirable designer. Giorgio Armani
History: Giorgio Armani set up his own line in 1975 with his lover, originally designing for men before launching his first womens collection later in the year. His suits were radical for the time, replacing the well known stuffed suit look with a relaxed slouch fit in lightweight fabrics. In 1980 he rose to fame when his power suit was worn by Richard Gere in the film American Gigolo. From this moment Armani maintained his relationship with cinema and celebrities. His work appeared in the classic films The Untouchables, Tim Burtons Batman, Scorseses Goodfellas and Tarantinos Pulp Fiction. Armani dressed so many celebrities at the 1989s Oscars that the show was coined the Armani Awards by the fashion industry.
Contemporary: The brand has since moved into other product areas including fragrance, underwear, jeans, hotels, and chocolates to name a few. What makes this brand special is that Armani has never strayed from his trademark easy elegance style, making his designs distinct and consistent.
MEC Opinion: Armani has demonstrated the importance of product expansion, brand exposure and design reliability as ways to grow market share and remain relevant. Contact
For more information about any of the articles please contact
Lauren Turner
Senior Manager- Client and Communications
lauren.turner@mecglobal.com
Office : +61 2 8356 0689
Sources
Yves Saint Laurent http://www.runningwithheels.com/index.php/2008/12/yvessaintlaurent/ http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Yves_Saint_Laurent http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Le_Smoking http://fashionista.com/2013/09/confirmed-kanye-west-wrote-i-am-a-god-about-hedi-slimane