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Table of Contents
Introduction
The Basics

Redstone Facts
Switches

Making It Work

The Power
Repeaters

Basic Example

Redstone Torches
Powering it Up and Down

Circuits

OR/NOR Gates
AND/NAND Gates
XOR Gate
RS NOR Latch
Monostable Circuit
T Flip-Flop
Clocks

Conclusion
Downloadables

Redstone Testing Map


Downloads
Quick Install Guide
PDF Version of Redstone Guide

Helpful Links
Credits

Introduction
Hi to whoever is reading this. This is my own attempt at a Redstone guide that is both easy to
understand and accessible, and isn't similar to the all but impossible to read one on Minecraft Wiki. I
have paroozed the many videos on YouTube and have found quite a few that I both like and that are
comprehensive, yet have had trouble finding a truly functional guide on paper. That is what I am here
to do. You will find descriptions of redstone basics, explanations, examples, and pictures, as well as
additional content as I learn more about redstone and hopefully gain more knowledge from others
(such as yourself) commenting on this guide. Good luck to you, and I hope you learn something.

The Basics
Redstone Facts
Redstone is the material used to create functional mechanisms in the Minecraft world, such as lever
controlled traps, or pressure plate controlled doors. There are several basic redstone facts to know:

Redstone Dust is mined from Restone Ore.


Each Ore block will drop 4-5 Redstone Dust.
Redstone Ore must be mined with an Iron Pickaxe or better.
Restone wiring carries a current 15 blocks.

Redstone dust can be placed on all blocks (such as Dirt, Stone, blocks of iron) to create wiring.
Exceptions include Ice and Glass and all triggerable blocks such as TNT, Note Blocks, Chests, and
Furnaces. (Redstone can be placed on Jukeboxes).

Dust can be connected either in a straight line, or can be placed up or down one adjacent block. To
connect blocks that are above or below each other, don't try and add redstone wiring on the sides
manually. Place on top of both blocks, and it connects itself.

If a block is placed that gets between the wiring diagonally, it will not let a current pass through. The
only two exceptions are ice and glass. The white block at the end shows regular behavior.

Wiring does not create any current by itself, but must be powered by one of several items in
Minecraft. You can see below how the powered wire glows red when a current is passing through it.

You may also notice that the color of the wiring quickly transitions from bright orange to a dark red.
This is an aesthetic representation of the current approaching the 15 block limit. It should be noted
that while the current appears weaker, the strength of the current at the end at block 15 is just as
strong as the current at the start with block 1.

Switches
Redstone wiring can be powered in several ways:

1. Button - By pressing the button, a current will stay for approximately 1


second (0.9 to be exact), then will stop.
2. Lever - Activating the lever will create a constant current until the lever
is flipped off.
3. Pressure Plate (Stone) - A player or mob will activate the current
while standing on a pressure plate. The current stops when the
player/mob step off.
4. Pressure Plate (Wood) - Same as a stone pressure plate, but can also
be activated by dropped items.
5. Redstone Torch - Redstone torches provide constant power to the
redstone wiring and have no direct activation/deactivation by
themselves.

For example, when the lever is applied to the majority of powerable objects, you can see the results.
The first image is with the levers in an "off" state, and the second picture is with them on. For safety
reasons I left the TNT for the very end.

Now that you know the basics of Redstone itself and how to power a current, let's look at some
specific Redstone concepts in order to make your contraptions work.

Making It Work
The Power
So far we have learned how different switches will power redstone wiring in order to make things
happen. There are several ways that the power can be transmitted from your switch (lever, pressure
pad, button, redstone torch) to the object in questions (piston, door, note-block, dispenser, etc).

1. The switch can be right next to the object.


2. The current can flow into the bottom of the object.
3. The current can flow into the top of the object.
4. Variation of #2.

When redstone wire runs parallel to a powerable object, or row of powerable objects, it tends to cause
issues if it is powering in a row adjacent to the bottom side of the block, as pictured in the right side
of the image. If the wiring runs on the top side, the current activates the objects and everything
works fine.

This image introduces an important concept of a current's ability to flow through blocks. As you can
see, redstone wiring does not connect the entire distance between the lever and the piston, instead
the current flows into the block which holds it and transfer it to all adjacent spaces. (This can be
useful if you want to hide your redstone wiring to make your creations more aesthetically pleasing).

Adjacent spaces are above, below, to the left and right, and front and behind the powered block. In
this case, the lever is attached to the front of the block, taking up the "front" position. It should be
noted that blocks adjacent to the lever itself are also powered, even if the lever (or any switch) isn't
directly touching it.

Now look at this. The powering block idea leads to the misconception that a block can simply replace a
piece of wire. As shown above, this is not the case. Unless a wire is connected to a block that has a
switch placed on it, it will not receive power from anything except for a torch, or just a switch by itself.
Take note and avoid confusion!
Much can be done if you know how to properly set up your power supply, but the amount possible
only increases with the introduction of a repeater.
Repeaters
Repeaters are the one redstone affiliated item that I have not yet mentioned, but perhaps one of the
most useful. The repeater has two main uses, both being very simple:
1. Creating delays in the current
2. Extending past the 15 block current limit

The simplest use of Redstone Repeaters is for extending past the 15 block limit that a current has
from its original powering source (such as a lever, button, or redstone torch).

When using repeaters, make sure you place them the right way, with the current entering into the red
strip!

You can see here how the very top piston is functioning when activated, but that the one below it is
not. This is because there are 16 spaces of wiring in the lower connection versus the exact 15 in the
top one. Once a repeater is added though, the 15 block limit is reset and the current can continue for
another 15 spaces (from the repeater) before dying out.
Minecraft redstone has a system of delays known as ticks. A tick, according to Minecraft Wiki, is equal
to 0.1 seconds. When a repeater is introduced into the path of redstone, it causes a one tick delay in a
neutral state. Thus, if you had a current that had to travel through ten repeaters between a lever and
a piston, it would take one second for the lever to activate the piston (if all repeaters were in neutral).
Now what do I mean by neutral state?
Resized to 92% (was 800 x 238) - Click image to enlarge

Right clicking a repeater causes one of the torches to shift, up to three times, to create delays. Each
shift adds on one more tick, making each repeater able to cause 4 ticks of delay, or 0.4 seconds delay.
When a repeater is first placed down, it is at a 1 tick state, or "neutral". Repeaters themselves plus a
little redstone dust can be used to make up a basic logic gate known as a Pulser, but we will describe
it, among other things, in the following sections.
Redstone Torches
First let's start with learning a bit more about redstone torches. A redstone torch by iteself delivers a
never ending current to an object or to redstone wiring. You can think of it as a lever that never
leaves the "On" position. Although a redstone torch is on by default, it can be turned off when a
current is introduced to it in a specific way. Look at the following image.

So what exactly is going on here? It would appear that both switches are flipped on, thus creating a
current that we learned flows through the block and into the torch. The bottom torch was successfully
turned off, but why didn't the top one turn off? It is quite simple. Since the torch itself is giving off a
current, it powers the redstone wiring, which then leads back to the block and lever, where it stops,
unable to effect anything. To avoid these complications, we power the blocks that the torch is placed
on.

A switch will turn off and on a torch placed on any side of the block that it is able to attach to. But why
turn off a torch? Observe in the following picture how the switches are both either in the off or on
position and yet the outputs are different.

The switch that has a redstone torch creates something known as an inverter, or a "NOT Gate". An
inverter simply inverts the input that is given. Usually a flipped lever will send a current, activating an
object. But when a torch is attached, the flipped lever sends a current into the torch, disabling it,
causing absolutely no current to flow through the output.

Quick example of an inverter at a distance from the switch. When stacking the disabling and enabling
effects of torches, it should be noted that torches bring a 1 tick wait time with them, exactly that of a
repeater in a neutral state.

In the following example, you can see how a redstone repeater set to two ticks will cause the exact
same delay as two torches placed in the other line. (Before official repeaters were introduced, the
above system of two redstone torches was used to extend the current).

Powering it Up and Down


This system of powering torches can be harnessed to achieve vertical power in the form of several
slightly different structures.

The first 1x1 tower ends with a torch powered on, thus activating the piston, whereas the 2x1 tower
ends with an off torch, leaving the piston in place. (Obviously if the towers each increased by one
torch, the outputs would be opposite). These towers make sending power vertically less of a hassle.
You can also try a 2x2 spiraling method that sends power both up and down. This tower is excellent
because it can be traversed up and down by foot!

Here is the spiral staircase in action!

Sending power down can either be achieved in a couple ways. You can either use the aforementioned
2x2 spiral method, a bulky staircase looking structure (seen below), or a more advanced looking
method of stacking floating blocks.

The final stacking block method of "powering it down" can be explained simply. The switch will
activate a piece of redstone that delivers a current to the redstone torch at the end. This torch is then
disabled, thus releasing the disabling effect on the torch below, turning it on. This effect alternates
back and forth until it hits bottom.

Well, that about does it for most of the basic technical concepts of redstone related items. To learn
about different circuits, scarily termed "Logic Gates", proceed on to the next section.

Circuits (Oh, so confusing! Not really)


A circuit in Minecraft is basically just a bunch of switches, torches, redstone, and perhaps repeaters,
put in a certain order that gives a desired output (current or no current) based on different inputs
(levers, buttons, torches, redstone, etc).

Basic Example

Description
Now this isn't even a circuit, but let's start with this very basic contraption that you have seen a bunch
of times. You flip on the lever (input) and it results in a current (output) that in turn activates a piston
(powered block). That is all. Moving on.

OR/NOR Gates

Description
This "OR Gate" is very similar to the previous example. The only difference is that now there are two
levers instead of one. With an "OR Gate", by pressing one lever OR the other (inputs), a current will
result (output).
NOR Gate
Note that you can combine the "OR Gate" with an inverter to result in the opposite output. When a
gate gives an opposite output, the letter "N" is put in front of the title, so "OR Gate" becomes "NOR"
Gate, which is this gate below.

AND/NAND Gates
Description
An "AND Gate" will result in an output only when both Lever 1 AND Lever 2 are flipped on. Let me
explain exactly what is going on in this picture.

Explanation
The two levers are the inputs. Only when both are flipped will the piston move up. The reason why is
quite simple. The redstone torches that are above each input are both powering the piece of redstone
wiring that is in between the two. This powered redstone wire is effectively powering the Key
Redstone Torch, thus disabling it (as we learned earlier). Only when both torches above the inputs are
off, will the piece of redstone wire be off, thus halting the disabling effect on the torch. One the torch
is enable, it releases a current through the wire and into the piston.

NAND Gate
To create an "NAND gate", instead of adding an inverter, you take off the original redstone torch that
sat in the middle. That torch's purpose was to create a circuit that turned ON when both inputs were
on. You could almost look at the "NAND Gate" as the original form, and the "AND Gate" as the
variation that had an inverter attached.

XOR Gate
Description
The "XOR Gate" is a variation of the "OR Gate". As you know, an "OR Gate" has an output that can be
turned OFF or ON by all included inputs. With an "XOR Gate", the same applies, but if both inputs are

ON, the output will turn OFF. Or to be stated in another way, if the inputs match each other (both ON
or both OFF) the output will be OFF, if they are different (one OFF with the other ON), the output will
be ON.

Explanation
The explanation of how this works is not too bad. Ignore the green box for a moment and just focus
on the two red boxes. See how in the top box, if the lever is switched on, it will send a current into the
torch placed on the side, turning it off, releasing the disabling effect on the consecutive torch (in the
red box), which releases a current into the wiring and through the output. That is the first part; if
either lever is switch on by itself it will send a current and activate an object, a piston in this case.
The next part is also simple. Try and imagine that both levers have been switched on. Why does the
final current stop? If you look at the two torches placed on top of the blocks that the levers are
attached to, you will see they are powering several pieces of wire. As long as one lever is not switched
on, this wire will always been powered, but as soon as both are switched on, the power dies. When it
dies the torch in the green box will turn on and power the wires to its sides. This power will disable the
two torches at the very end, making it so no current reaches the piston. And that's it! Whew!

RS NOR Latch
Description
An RS NOR Latch sounds god-awful doesn't it? It really is not so bad. Imagine a scenario where you
wanted an input that you could switch on and off. A lever sounds great doesn't it? But say you to be
able to turn the input "ON" by triggering one button, and "OFF" by triggering a button in an entirely
different place. This is what the "RS NOR Latch" lets us do.

Explanation
Once the top button is pressed, the current will flip to the other side and stay there until the opposite
bottom button is pressed. Depending on which output is used, the top and bottom buttons will be
on/off or off/on. The reasoning as to why is not complicated either. Once the top button is pressed, a
current will flow into the block that it is attached to and into the torch, disabling it. Once the torch is
disabled, the wiring that it is connected to will also turn off, thus releasing the disabling effect on the
opposite block/torch. Now we are flipped and pressing the button on the opposite side will have the
opposing effect. A quick note on the name, "RS" stands for "Reset" and "Set". If you press one button,
it will set it, but if you press the other, it will reset. Pretty cool.

Monostable Circuit
Description
A monostable circuit is basically an "RS NOR Latch" with a slight modification. The point of a
monostable circuit is to give an input that has a set amount of time before it turns off. Say you
wanted to have a door open for five seconds, then close, this is what you would use. Most inputs are
either a quick flash (button/pressure pad) or set indefinitely off/on (torches/levers), but with a
monostable circuit, you have the ability to set the time. Anyways, have a look.

Explanation
Right away you can see the "RS NOR Latch" as well as another wire with a repeater on it traveling
from one block to the other. If you remember, the "RS NOR Latch" has "ON" and "OFF", or
alternatively "SET" and "RESET", inputs or switches. When you press the single button in the
monostable circuit, the "RS NOR Latch" turns "ON" or is "SET" as usual, but the pressing of the button
also sends a signal through the wire on the side. This signal hits the repeater (the single repeater is
just an example, you can place as many as you could possible want for your own particular delay
times) and is delayed. After the delay, it travels and hits the block giving it an "OFF" or "RESET"
command. Thus, the system is reset.
T Flip-Flop
Description
The T Flip-Flop is a big heap of wires designed to do basically one thing, to turn a button into a lever.
You can think of it as if the two buttons of the "RS NOR Latch" were the same button. You press it
once, "ON", you press it again, "OFF". Simple.

Explanation
Now don't get overwhelmed when looking at this mess, I'm going to walk you through it. In the image
above, you have two primary parts. The green selection covers the "RS NOR Latch" of the circuit, and
the red selection covers a piece that shortens the pulse of the button from about one second, to about
one third of a second. Let's first examine how the part selected in red works.
Okay, so you push the button and it sends a pulse. This pulse hits the block that has a torch on it, and
disables that torch. Once the torch is disabled, the current that had been flowing through the long
piece of wire going from top to bottom is turned off. At the same time that the disabled torch stops
the current from flowing through the long wire, it also releases the disabling effect on the torch right
above it. This torch then turns on and disables the the torch on the block, which allows the last torch
to turn on and power that same long piece of wire. Now lets put it together. The button is pressed
and turns off the wire, but at the same time, a pulse flows through three torches (bringing three ticks
of delay) which ends up powering the wire that had been off. So instead of having a 0.9 second wait
time before the wire goes from off back to on after the button is pressed, it now only has a 0.3 second
wait time due to the three torches above. The same signal that is used to turn off the wire is also used
to power the wire, but the powering effect is coming 0.3 seconds later. It overrides the first effect and
turns the wire back on.
Now for the rest. Stay with me, we're getting there. There are a few things here besides just the RS
NOR Latch. If you look, there are a couple of other blocks thrown in. Counting the pieces of the RS
NOR Latch there is a circle of three on top, and a circle or rectangle of three on bottom. Look at the
blocks labeled Block on Top/Bottom.

Depending on whether the output is ON or OFF there will either be two wires powering the Block
on Bottom or two wires powering the Block on Top, respectively. What does this mean? Remember
how when you press the button it turns off the long piece of wire that is connected to these two blocks
for about 0.3 seconds? Well the block that is only being powered by this long wire will have the
disabling effect on it released for those 0.3 seconds, sending a pulse either into the ON/Set or the
OFF/Reset, effectively turning the output "ON" or "OFF". And thats about it.
Clocks
Description
A Clock, sometimes referred to as a pulser, is used in a circumstance where you want your redstone
current to actually pulse or flash. You can set this up in two different ways.

The Repeater Clock needs to be activated with a quick flash of current from either a button, pressure

plate, or a quick drop-torch-then-destroy-real-fast action. If you have too much trouble setting it up,
try this alternate clock.

Five torches or five repeaters are not necessary to create a clock. When using torches and blocks, you
need to have an odd number, where as you can make a clock with any amount of repeaters. The torch
and block clock requires no activation, once it is set up, it will go by itself. Note that when making
clocks, using 3 or less torches/blocks or repeaters will cause the torches in the clock to burn out.
That does it for circuits for the time being. I truly hope to update as frequently as I can as I learn new
things and optimize old ideas. Please stay tuned and let me know if further clarification is necessary.

Conclusion
Thank you for reading my guide and I hope that you learned something from it. If you find any errors,
typos, or have additional information that you think should be added, please comment or pm me and
let me know. Not being a redstone master by any means, I know there is plenty that has been left out
due to my ignorance, and I would be very grateful for both explanations on complex circuits and
intriguing mechanisms that would be helpful for the player base, as well as simple facts such as wiring
not function on a certain material. Feel free to use any of my pictures or videos for your own use.
Enjoy playing with Redstone and thanks again!

Downloadables
(See Guide online).

Credits

Minecraft Wiki
Minecraft YouTubers
Minecraftforum.net
Repliers and Commenters for suggestions and feedback.

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