Ok here is the COMPLETE JOURNAL for beginners/intermediate methamphetamine dreamers.

This
is ALL that you will need. Here is how it works the First section is written by Wicked_Rain. He
discusses how to acquire and clean your precursors. This includes Psuedoephedrine, Red
Phosphors, and Iodine Crystals. After his Section is THE NEWLY RE_WRITTEN Acidmelt SLACKER
Synth. It was just recently fixed up to be even more easy to understand and follow. I hope you
enjoy it. SWIA tweaked it out just right for you, and there should be no problems following it.
Lastly I included Jams A/B write up. Now in the acidmelt slacker synth there is its own A/B that
acidmelt wrote. But if you wish you can substitute the a/b in acidmelts synth for Jams A/b
writeup. Use whatever one is easiest for you to understand. Bee SAFE and have fun in your
dreams. Remember that none of this is for real life, none of us have ever done this. Its illegal and
dangerous. With that being said . READ ON!!!
~ ~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
First let me introduce you to SWIM. SWIM is: Someone Who Isn`t Me.
PART 1A: Acquiring Red Phosphorous
Below is SWIM`s own writeup, the long version. totally complete for the new chef and in laymans
terms. safety tips included, simple do`s and don't`s that may save the learning chef from harms
way. hate to have anyone wind up looking like a match thats already been struck. to the old
masters of the game the write up may seem a bit long winded and silly at times but this write up
is NOT for you as SWIM is sure you have mastered the RP from MB technique.
heres what SWIM`s insane friend in the big city does.
take your 1000 (1 case) matchbooks and remove the matches by opening the book and ripping
out the matches. that will leave you with just the complete cover in your hand. you will get fast
and efficient at this with practice. be CAREFUL during this stage, you don't want several hundred
ripped out matches catching fire. don't have more than one book in your hand at a time. SWIM`s
friend grabs ONE book flips it open holds it in left hand rips matches out with his right hand,
throws em in container next to him. the container SWIM uses is a heavy gauge plastic with a tight
fitting lid so if you do have a fire in the container the lid can be slammed on thereby smothering
the fire. he has seen people rip out matches drop em in there lap etc. and have 4 or 5 empty
covers in left hand (which still contains the striker remember) and then next thing you know a
book being ripped out accidently catches one of the strikers in left hand and WOOSH. if they are
stacked in your lap you can imagine how bad it can be. so one at a time only and don't stack em
in your lap. DO NOT open more than one box of 50 at a time for the same reasons. when you are
done you will have 1000 strike covers stacked on there sides (minus the matches) in the little
cardboard boxes the match books originally came in. 1000 usually fits in 2 of the boxes. next take
your good sharp med. size scissors. (fiskars seem to be best in quality) now take ONE at a time
and cut the short side off. SWIM`s friend grabs one cover in left hand holding in a way that theres
2 inches or so of cover then the strike pad then a short inch or so of cover (the end where the
staple was holding in matches) towards his right hand. cut off the short end right exactly on the
line you don't want none of the paint/ink from the cover design with your strike pad. next cut it
above the strike pad again exactly on the line. when you cut the strike pad off let it fall into a
container by itself (SWIM`s friend uses one of the cardboard boxes that originally held 50 books)
sure when you cut them you can cut 3 or 4 at a time but SWIM will take the time to explain why
you shouldn't. if you cut more than one at a time the others will move slightly underneath the top
one and you will end up with part of the RP cut off on the bottom and part of the paint/ink left on
the top of the pads the more you try and cut at once the more pronounced this effect will become
towards the last one in the stack. try a few and you will see, or better yet do it as SWIM is telling
you since he took the time to type all this shit out in about as layman terms as he can lay it. like
he said above, with practice you will become very fast at this. SWIM`s friend and SWIM can do 10
cases (10,000) books in about 4 hours 15 min.. now at this point you should have 1000 strike

pads in front of you. SWIM`s friend in the big city now takes them and dumps them in a colander
(one of those things you drain spaghetti in) bounce them around in there letting all the little
pieces of paper cuttings and the little cardboard pellet looking things from where the staple went
thru to hold the matches in originally. you will see when they quit falling out of colander. now its
time for the removal of the RP from the strike pads:
PART 1B:
if you are only doing a 1000 books take a quart jar the kind that the mouth is the same diameter
as the jar. (skippys peanut butter jars work great)...(the necked down mouths work but its a little
harder to get your strike pads out when they are done being soaked) put the pads in the jar, fill
with hot water to about 3 inches above the pads. put the lid on, shake the hell out of them.
immedieatly pour off the hot water, dont let them soak in the hot water more than 2 minutes or to
much paper pulp is introduced. pour off the hot water and discard. now pour acetone or
denatuered alcohol on them and shake the hell out of them. let them sit 20 minutes or so and
shake them again. all the RP should now be off the pads and you can remove the strike pads.
SWIM`s friend uses stainless steel serving tongs to grab a small heap of pads swish them gently
around in tone (making sure no clumps of RP are stuck in them) then remove them. repeat this
untill all the strike pads you can see are removed. add a little bit more fresh tone and shake the
shit up good let it set for a short. now you should have before you a one quart jar with a 1/4 inch
or so of reddish/brownish goop/powder on the bottom and 2 to 4 inches of medium to dark
maroon tone. you will notice that no matter how long it sets the tone will not lighten up and still
look as if it has some RP suspended in it. if it does its miniscule and not worth fuckin with. siphon
the tone off into waste can. after that take the RP and put it in a jar and pour in muriatic acid to a
couple inches above the RP. bring it to a boil (outside of course) for 5 min or so and then rinse it
with DH2O untill you've ran at least a quart thru it. you shouldn't be able to smell ANY muriatic
only the unmistakable smell of RP. dry it TOTALLY and its ready to rock. another way that works is
take the RP and put it in a 250 to 500 ml boiling flask. (or whatever is large enough to hold the
amount you have and hold up to the LOW heat) for every 10 grams of RP put in 1/8 to 1/4
teaspoon of RD lye. add DH2O untill the RP is covered by a 2 or 3 inchs. put it on the hotplate
(outside of course) and cook it for 2 hours on LOW LOW heat DO NOT let it boil and DO NOT let
the water cook out as the lye will want to erupt if it gets to hot or runs low on water. the lye will
cook out of the mix and the caustic nature of it will burn everything out of the RP that isnt RP.
keep a close eye on the shit and add more DH2O as needed to keep the RP covered. DO NOT
leave it unattended as it will try to climb out of the flask and the flask will need to be removed
from the heat and swirled for a few seconds untill it subsides then returned to heat. wash it WELL
with DH2O afterwards. run the RP thru a fine sieve strainer to powder it SWIM always does this
when it has a miniscule amount of moisture left in it as waiting till its totally bone dry makes the
little chunks fly everywhere when you try and run them thru the sieve. after its ran thru the fine
sieve dry it the last little bit to bone dry, weigh it and store it in an airtight container. write the
weight of the RP on the container you store it in then you dont have to remember.
SWIM`s friend usually yeilds 7 to 10 grams (per 1000 books) of super clean RP this way. as its
drying you should grab the bowl every once in awhile and gently mash up the large lumps as they
are easier to mash up when its damp than when its bone dry. when hes done its all usually the
size of pinheads and smaller and ready for the fine sieve mentioned above. this may seem like a
long difficult way to do it but trust me its not. the more you do it the faster you will get. typing all
this seems more of a pain in the ass to SWIM than doin the matches... if you are gonna do more
than a 1000 books do it in more jars or get a gallon jar, no big deal.
there ya go. simple as it gets. as you do it more and more you will naturally devolop your own
little twists and methods and polish and refine your technique. well, some people will but most
WILL fail miserably at it and fail at the other steps as well. if everyone could do it then it would be
everywhere and wouldnt be worth 2 bucks a gram. if you find yourself to be one of those guys
that just cant get it right don`t despair. find a true friend that you trust and teach them the
methods you find here and at rhodium and the hive and sponsor them if they have what it takes.

SWIM was lucky and took to it like a duck to water. ALWAYS work safe and THINK as you work. it
dont take much of a temporary lapse of your power station to bring on disaster and possibly cost
you your life and/or liberty.
ACETONE IS A VERY DANGEROUS/FLAMMABLE CHEMICAL AND WILL FLASH TO FIRE WITH LITTLE
PROVACATION AND NO WARNING.
DO NOT HEAT IT IN THE MICROWAVE.
DO NOT SMOKE AROUND IT.
EXTINGUISH ALL PILOT LIGHTS ON GAS APPLIANCES (stove top, oven & hot water heater) BE
AWARE OF THE FURNACE/HEATING SYSTEM, MOST FORCED AIR UNITS HAVE NO PILOT BUT DO
HAVE AN ELECTRONIC IGNITION. TURN IT OFF. YOU MAY HAVE BASBOARD HEAT AND THINK ITS
ALL GOOD HOWEVER SOMEWHERE THERES A BOILER THAT HEATS THE LIQUID BEING PUSHED
THRU THE BASEBOARD. ITS USUALLY IN THE BASEMENT OR LOWEST PART OF THE HOUSE, THE
SAME PLACE THAT THE ACETONE/SOLVENT FUMES WILL MIGRATE TO. IF YOUR NOT SURE WHAT
TYPE OF HEAT YOU HAVE OR WHERE THESE APPLIANCES ARE LOCATED MAYBE YOU SHOULD NOT
BE ATTEMPTING THIS.
MAKE SURE THERE IS ADEQUATE VENTILATION AND REMEMBER, THE FUMES WILL HUG THE
FLOOR AND CAN IGNITE FROM SCOURCES FAR FROM YOUR WORK AREA.
READ THE WARNINGS ON THE CAN AND FOLLOW THEM. THEY MAY SAVE YOUR LIFE, YOUR
HOME, YOUR FAMILY, THEY DONT PRINT THE SHIT ON THE CAN CUZ IT LOOKS COOL. THIS SHIT
IS NOT CHILDS PLAY.
FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY HEED SWIM`s WORDS
*********** ********** ********** ********** ********** ********** **********
PART 2A: Extracting Psuedoephedrine from cold/sinus pills
Chems Needed:
TCE= available at your local auto parts store as BRAKLEEN or ELECTRAMOTIVE made by the CRC
company. ingrediants are:
Tetrachloroethylene CAS# 127-18-4 & carbon dioxide CAS# 124-38-9
the tetra is the chemical the carbon dioxide is the propellent. if you are looking at the right can
(red & black with a black cap) then these will be the ingrediants. NO SUBSTITUTIONS
Japan Dryer is used when applying varnish or shellac in humid weather. it is added to the varnish
or shellac to speed up the drying process. available at hardware stores in the paint section.
ingrediants are: Napathenic Salts, Petroleum Distillates.NO SUBSTITUTIONS
the mix desired is 10 to 1
100 ml TCE 10 ml JD per 100 count of 60 mg pills. spray into a clean empty jar the needed
amount of TCE. pour in the premeasured amount of JD. shake well and then pour it on the pill
mass in the other jar. let it soak with stirring for 3 minutes NO MORE THAN 3 MINUTES. got it?
good.
here is the step by step SWIM did in his test run complete with list of active ingrediants and
inactives.
ACTIVE INGREDIANTS:
Psudoephedrine HCL .60 mg
tripolidine 2.5 mg
INACTIVE INGREDIANTS:
methylcellulose
lactose
magnesium stearate
polyethylene glycol
silica gel
starch

stearic acid
titanium dioxide
1...ground up 96 (4 boxes of 24 ct) pills with mortar and pestle to a fine powder.
2...passed thru a fine sieve used in canning jellies (its all plastic and works great)
3...measured out 100 ml TCE and 10 ml japan drier. mixed together well and poured onto pill
powder in 1 pint jar. stirred well and let set THREE minutes.
4...poured entire jar contents thru a funnel with a single filter and no plug. pill mass was an ugly
sorta pale blue/grey. sprayed sides of filter down with TCE from the spray can with tube attached.
when all pill mass was in bottom of filter it was removed twisted and rung out.
5...opened filter and spread pill mass out on glass plate. as it dried the small clumps were
chopped smaller with razor blade. it was left to set untill it was totally bone dry.
6...the dried pill mass was passed thru the fine sieve again. (a side note of caution here, to avoid
the wrath of the wife buy your own fine sieve strainer from canning section of store. dont use hers
as it will smell of japan drier untill the end of the time)
7...placed pill mass in clean pint jar. poured in 250 ml of denatured alcohol. stirred let set untill
clear. decanted, evapped,
repeated two more times.
8...took the bone dry scrapings from 3 evaps (they were ugly blue/grey (but SWIM had faith and
was not worried) ran them through the fine sieve strainer again, poured 100 ml of COLD DRY
acetone on the crystals and stirred and stirred and voila white crystals crashing out of tone and
the tone was now the ugly blue/grey color. decanted tone, spread crystals out on plate to finish
drying and they were beautiful snow white crystals. SWIM had to put on his sunglasses they were
so white. they were again passed thru the fine sieve strainer, weighed and stored in an airtight,
light proof container. ready to join the other two reagents in the flask when the time comes.
IMPORTANT NOTES:
1. this extraction method was formulated for white 60`s. reports have come in that say it works
across the board on a multitude of pills including redhots (deredded 1st of course) and 120`s.
these reports are from very reliable scources however SWIM has only done it personally on white
60`s which it was designed around and for. if you dont know what white 60`s , redhots and 120`s
are then you are no where near ready to do this and need to research further in labtips. do your
research 1st by reading thru all the past pages in labtips. read ALL the threads. the information
there is invaluable. then when you have questions about your research post your questions in a
thread. the folks there will gladly help. however be warned that questions asked without research
1st such as: "hey man i need a quick easy recipie to make meth" or: "ive searched and searched
and cant find -fill in the blank-". posts such as these will be promptly ignored or will result in you
being flamed to a crisp, most likely the latter. and believe SWIM the folks there will know if you
have done your homework and are in need of help or if you are simply trying to go the easy
lazyass way. they are not easily fooled as they have been doing this for a long time. some of them
longer than some of you have been alive.
2. it is very important that at the beginning and between each step where noted the pill mass be
passed thru the fine sieve strainer. chopping with a razor blade or crushing with mortar and pestle
simply wont get it. the mass needs to be powdered as fine as possible to insure that the entire
surface area comes into contact with the chemical in each step. any small chunks will hold gakk,
crap, trash, heavy metals etc. DO NOT skip these fine sieve strainings where they are called for. a
plastic sieve used for straining jellies is available in the canning section of most large stores that
sell canning supplies and works the best. a small metal sieve can be used as well however metal is
generally a no-no as the reaction with most chems with the metal is not a good one. if metal must
be used make damn sure that what your passing thru it is bone dry 1st.
UPDATE-3/31/04:
SWIM has taken to combining his 3 denat pulls into one jar instead of evapping them seperatley.
SWIM adds the denat lets it settle out, siphons it off. adds denat to pill mass again, settles,

siphons off, combines with 1st pull. repeats again. once 3 pulls have been collected in 1 jar SWIM
then runs the 3 pulls thru fine filtration. SWIM`s fine filtration device is simply a HEET bottle with
the bottom cut out and 6 or 8 cotton balls stuffed into the long heet bottle neck. SWIM packs
them into the neck SUPER tight. SWIM uses a ringstand clamp clamped onto the heet bottle neck
to hold it securley above the mason jar. if you just let it dangle in the jars mouth the long neck
reachs almost to the bottom of the jar, you dont want this. so devise an apperattus to hold the
HEET bottle. you can use a regular funnel if need be. a regular funnel is the originol way and
works great but only holds a half cup of juice. SWIM likes his HEET bottle set up cuz he can pour
in almost a pint of juice at once and walk away while it does its slow drip. in most cases SWIM
only has to fill the inverted HEET bottle twice and all his juice is fine filtered. with the small regular
funnel SWIM found himself having to fill it 8 or 10 times to get all the juice filtered. when all the
juice from the 3 pulls has passed thru the fine filtration device then SWIM evaps it. scrapes up the
crystals, makes sure they are totally dry, runs the crystals thru a fine sieve to powder them and
then runs them thru the acetone wash. you will notice in most cases the tone takes on a blue
green hue and the crystals are snow white. after a few min of being stirred in the acetone bath
they are poured thru a single coffee filter. filter is wrung out and then crystals are spread on a
plate to dry again. when dry SWIM again passes them thru a fine sieve to powder them, weighs
them and at this point compares weight with what he should have gotten from the pill mass. if
weight is far short SWIM does a 4th pull on the pill mass. if weight is within a couple grams or less
from the expected return SWIM calls it good and chucks the pill mass. many say to save all these
pill mass remainders untill several are saved up and then do a pull on them combined. SWIM says
fuck that dont keep that shit around. its not worth this shit being found for a few grams of E. if
the juice is at all cloudy pass it thru the fine filtration again. do it as many times as it takes untill
it is clear as water. failure to do so will result in E that is unclean. if after two or 3 filterings it still
has a cloudy look then pack more cotton balls in your filtration apperattus and make them tighter.
when proper it should be a slow dripwith 1 or 2 seconds between drips. if it runs thru in a stream
no matter how small its not packed tight enough.
there ya go young grasshoppers, another tidbit from the crew at upallnite productions &
stucktomyshoe inc. to make your life a little bit easier.
remember this info is all hypothetical and was gathered from a dream state, compacted and found
stuck to the dreamers shoe upon awakening. actual use of this info could land you in jail or worse.
******************************************************************************
PART 3A: Acquiring I2 Crystals
I2 Crystals are available in several places however it is a very watched product. meaning it is
tracked heavily by law enforcment. ordering it off the net etc. is very risky. do so at your own risk.
when your setting in a prison cell with Ben Dover grinnin at you, remember SWIM warned you.
what will be covered here is extracting your own I2 crystals from tincture.
NEEDED ITEMS: 1 pint 7% iodine tincture, 1 pint 3% hydrogen peroxide, 2 cups of distilled
water, 1 ounce muriatic acid.
in a gallon jar (half gallon minimum) pour in the 7% iodine tincture, then pour in the 2 cups
DH2O, stir it well. next pour in the 1 ounce of muriatic acid, stir it well. let it set for 15 minutes
stirring every few minutes. now pour in 12 ounces (3/4 of the pint) of the hydrogen peroxide
slowly while stirring. seal the jar. if the lid is metal place a plastic baggie over the jar opening
before you screw on the lid. if you have no lid a baggie over the opening and a rubber band
twisted tight around the neck will work. put it in a cool place that it wont be disturbed for 12
hours. after 12 hours you will see your crystals in the bottom of the jar. pour the liquid into a new
jar add the remaing 4 ounces of peroxide and a capfull of muriatic acid seal the top again and put
it away for another 12 hours. there will be another small batch of crystals to harvestfrom this.

now take a gallon of DH2O and pour it in the jar with the crystals. pour the contents thru a funnel
with a single coffee filter in it. it will drain slowly but patience is the key to success. when all the
crystals are in the filter and the last of the liquid is drained pour in DH2O untill the funnell is full
and let it drain. do this at least 4 times. SWIM does it 8 times. now take the wet crystals and filter
out of the funnel, gentley squeeze out most of the water being careful not to tear the filter. at this
point SWIM takes 10 paper towels and folds them in half, places the filter in them and folds them
over the filter. he then presses the water out. when the paper towels are wet he repeats the
process. when no more moisteure can be squeezed out this way he then places the filter in 1
paper towel closes it up and places it in a jar and pours damprid over the whole thing and lets it
set 24 hours. when the crystals are removed from the damprid they are bone dry and ready to go
into there storage container. SWIM recomends wearing gloves, chem goggles and working over
wax paper. this will make cleanup a breeze.
so there it all is in a nutshell. if your after a quick easy way then you are in the wrong place. there
is no quick easy way. if there was everyone and his brother would be doing it. the only quick easy
way is to hit the street and buy the trashy cut shit you will find there. or take the time, learn the
craft, and behold the best shit you have ever done with the pride of knowing you done it yourself.
the game has its rules follow them and be rewarded. dont follow them and go to prison or the
morgue or at the very least wind up with nothing,
hell these are possibilities even if you do follow the rules. remember that.
~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Acidmelts Slacker Reaction REVISED 4-25-2004
by Acidmelt
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------Acidmelts Slacker Reaction
This reaction is brought about the same as every other push/pull rxn in the book. You
have to know how to extract psuedoephedrine(E) and clean it, you have to know how to
extract the red phosphorus(RP) off matchbooks (or where ever you get it from), and
how to properly clean the red phosphorus. you must also know how to clean up your
iodine(I2) to a proper grade.
As far as the cleaning of the E goes I would have to recommend using Wicked Rains
TCE/JD Method, as it is quite new and will work with the latest pill formulas that the
D.E.A. has released. Jam has a good A/B write up as well, you can use his or the one
that I have written here. After the cook and A/B you have a choice to get it into Hcl
form (salt form), you can either titrate with diluted Murry (muriatic acid) or you can gas
with HCL gas. If youre a beginner then I would recommend starting with titration. I
will cover that later in the text.
I am not going to go into how to do these procedures (cleaning E, RP, I2) as they are
covered in seperate pages on Totse. With this easy to follow synth, I will start at mixing
the reactants and where to go from there. Keep in mind that this is only a dream and a
very simple dream at that. I have never tried this and I have never met someone that
has tried it. Its just well organized thoughts in a well organized matter. I don't condone
this activity or any illegal activity for that matter. Don't try this at home.
What you will need:

Precursers:
1.Psuedoephedrine or Ephedrine (E)
2. Red Phosphorus (RP)
3.Iodine Crystals (I2)
Equipment:
1.Flask with nipple connection
2.Stopper (that fits the flask)
3.Electric Burner
4.Candy Thermometer
5.1and 1/2ft. of plastic tubing to fit on the nipple of your flask AND a balloon (regular
balloon)
6.Separatory Funnel
7.Chemical Resistant latex gloves
8.Visionware Glass Bowl or pot.
9.Regular cooking pot
10.Distilled H2O and Ice
11.RedDevil Lye
12.Hydrocloric acid (Muriatic Acid)
13.Duct Tape
14.Litmus Paper
15.Non-Polar Solvent (VM&P Naptha, Toluene...)
ok here is how it goes... Put your gloves and glasses on. Use the 1 part E, to 1.2 parts
I2, to .8parts RP ratio for reactions under 1oz. So for example you would use 10g of E,
12g of I2, and 8g of RP. First take the RP and the E and mix well in a plastic baggie.
Take this and pour it into your flask, covering the bottom of it. Now put this flask in an
ice bath. This consists of filling the bottom of a bowl or sink with ice and cold water. Set
your flask in this. Now you are going to add a little DH20. Add about 2ml to 2.5ml if you
are doing over 10 grams and under 1oz of E. If you are using less than 10g or E then
you want to add about 1ml to 1.75ml of DH20.
Next pour in your I2 and close with a solid rubber stopper. Duct tape this on so it dont
pop off during the reaction. you should all ready have your foot and a half of plastic
tubing secured onto the nipple of the flask and securely taped there, and at the end of
this tubing you will be taping (duct tape) on a balloon. Make sure that all of this is taped
AIR TIGHT. After you get the 3 goodies mixed in the bottom of the flask you will want to
hold the end of the tubing closed with your thumb.(gloves on!)(safety glasses too)
Sit back and watch it start to react slowly. Sometimes it will react right away and
sometimes not. Just watch and see. It will react really slowly (thats what you want)
because it is in the ice bath. After about 10 minutes in the ice bath take it out and let it
sit on the counter for about 20 minutes to get back up to room temperature. It will start
turning to a muddy texture, and then to a liquid (might not turn liquid till its on the
heat). You may notice that your balloon is a little bigger. This is from gasses produced
by the reaction (Hi gas).
All right, everything going good so far? Not too hard huh? Now you will want to cook
the reaction to get it going again. Before you start all of this put your regular cooking
pot on your electric burner and find out where the dial is at 150F. So turn on your
burner and set it at 150F. Put your cooking pot with vegetable oil in the bottom (just
about 2 inches off the bottom) on the burner, and put your flask in that. After a few
minutes this bitch will really get cookin. It will start bubbling and the mixture will
expand. All in all it is going to start to get a little crazy. Every few minutes pick up the
flask and swirl it up a little. You will notice that the balloon is getting big. That is fine.
Let it do its thing. If the balloon is too smelly for you (you may smell a slight amount of
Hi gas) then lay a wet towel over the top of the balloon.
Just keep this going for while. You will want to slowly turn up the heat to about 190F

over a 1 hour period. The push part of the reaction will keep going for about 1.5 hours
to 2 hours. It usually lasted for about 1.5 hours in my dreams. You will know when to
stop cooking when the push stops and the bubbling slows.
When this has occured take the flask out of the pot and just set it on the counter. To
save any extra stress on the flask set it on top of a towel. (the counter may be too cold
for the flask if its not pyrex). While it is cooling to room temp you want to keep swirling
the flask. You will notice that the gas that was in the balloon is getting sucked back into
the flask and the balloon is deflating. This is good. It will probaly take about 20 minutes
(if that) for the flask to cool down. You want it to be cool enough to hold in your hand
with out burning yourself. Remember to keep stirring and shaking the flask during the
cooling.
When the flask has cooled down to a suitable state, (room temp) then untape the
rubber stopper and add 100ml of DH20 to the chili oil in the bottom of the flask. Shake
up the chilli/H20 in the flask, and pour directly into the clean visionware bowl. now
pour a little more distilled water into empty flask (just a little) and shake up real good.
this is just to get out the rest of what ever is left in the flask. put the bowl on the burner
and turn on high. bring to a boil while stirring with a clean plastic spoon. This will get
the some chilli that is stuck on the RP off of it. Turn off the burner and let sit and cool to
room temp.
While this is cooling off a little, grab your funnel and put in 3 coffee filters and stuff a
cotton ball in the tip of the funnel. put this over a clean glass jar. now pour everything
that is in the visionware bowl into the funnel. it will take a while to filter because of the
RP. once all the meth water is filtered through, into the glass jar, pour it back through
the same filters (with the RP in it) again. you will want to do this at least 4 times. just
keep pouring it through the same filter/cottonballs. now it should have a yellowish
collor, but not foggy at all. it should be very clear. be sure to save all your RP so you can
wash it and reuse it later.
THE A/B:
Prepare your lye solution ahead of time. You will need it soon. Do this by adding around
8-10 spoonfulls of lye to 100ml of DH20. Stir it up till its all dissolved. It will be hot. You
want to let it cool to room temp before it using. It will clear up as it cools down too.
Pour this into your separatory funnel (the yellowish clear water/meth), and add just a
little ice. Now you are going to add your NP (non-polar) solvent. I would dream about
using VM&P Naptha or toluene. For the matter of this write up I am going to say use
toluene. Add a little less than the amount of water/meth you have in there (add like
75ml). When you look at the sep funnel now you will see that there are 2 layers in it.
The top layer is the NP layer (toluene), and the bottom layer is the polar layer (water).
Now slowly add a little lye solution to the sep. funnel, and shake well. drop a small drip
onto your litmus paper to test the Ph. (you will be testing the water/meth layer, NOT
the toluene layer) you want the Ph to be 13 or 14. if it is not a Ph of 13/14 then add a
little more lye and shake the hell out of it and test again. keep doing this till it test out
at 13/14. What is happening here is you are making the meth into a freebase and
pushing into the NP layer. So you want to be sure to shake it up real well to get it all in
the NP. After it tests at 13/14 drop in a tablespoon of table salt, and shake well. Now
we are going to seperate the layers in the funnel. We want to keep the NP Solvent
(Toluene / top layer), not the water/lye layer (bottom).
Now you are going to make your Murry solution for the next step. To do this Add 15ml
of Muriatic acid to 85ml of DH20. Stir it up a bit and set it aside. This is now diluted Hcl

solution.
Put the water layer in a jar and set aside. You can do another A/B on it later. Keep the
Toluene/meth in the seperatory funnel. Heat a big glass of new distilled H2O till it is
hot. pour in one third the amount of water (compared to the Toluene) and shake well.
drain the water out. repeat this 4 times. you are washing the NP Solvent.
TITRATING THE METH:
From this point on you can either titrate the meth or gas it out. I am going to cover
titrating because I feel that this is something that a beginner should learn before
gassing. You only have to do one or the other.
Now add 30-40ml of DH20 to the sep. funnel and drop in a ml of Hcl solution. (Muriatic
Acid solution from the paragraph above) Shake for a few minutes. Then test the ph of
the water layer (bottom layer). You want it to test at 7.2 or at least close to that. If it
doesnt, add another ml of Hcl solution and shake the hell out of it again and test again.
Continue doing this till you get to the PH of 7 / 7.2 After it is the proper ph, drain the
water layer into your CLEAN visionware bowl and put it on the hotplate and and heat till
it starts to steam. Immediately take off the hotplate and put a fan on the bowl. Now you
can let it finish by having the fan blowing on it OR you can finish with a hairdryer if you
want. now go back to your toluene in the seperatory funnel and add a little more
distilled water. we are going to do a second pull on the non-polar solvent. add another
ml of Hcl solutioni and shake it up again. test the ph again. looking for 7.2 again. once
you reach 7.2 again drain your meth/water into another clean visionware bowl. now
evaporate again. remember that if your not in a hurry, evaporating it with a hair dryer
will increase yeilds. Some chefs even do a third pull.
Thats it. you now have clean and pure crystal meth. Have Fun, and be safe.
Authors Note: This type of synth is called a Hot Dry cook. It produces a more euphoric
product but it doesnt last as long as Long Wet Dope. Long Wet cooks produce a product
that has no Fireworks or euphoria, but it lasts longer. If you are looking for something
that lasts for a real long time but is boring then you want to do a long wet cook.
!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
YOU CAN DO THIS IN PLACE OF THE POST REACTION WORKUP IN THE SLACKER SYNTH
ABOVE. DO WHATEVER ONE YOU FIND EASIER, BUT DONT FORGET TO TITRATE
AFTERWARDS. THIS ONE PICKS UP IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE COOK IS DONE.
A/B Step-by-Step
So Your Rp/I Reaction is over? What does one do with
this nasty stuff now? How is it turned into White
Powder?
A simple, basic, no-frills, post-reaction work-up, for
early dreaming.
So Your Rp/I Reaction is over? What does one do with
this nasty stuff now? How is it turned into White
Powder?
A simple, basic, no-frills, post-reaction work-up, for
early dreaming.
This method or some
variation of is used (theoretically) by most Dreamers.
It is basic, well-known, well documented and often
ignored, until the last minute, by those who need it.
It has been written here, in fair detail, to benefit
those who, have never been exposed to such things

before. There are better procedures available, which

provide a cleaner and more intense end result. This
Procedure however, should become well familiar to the
Novice, initially. This account should be an adequate
and descriptive step-by-step guide, hopefully
answering many questions.
Step 1. Boil the Post Reaction Solution
At this point, the dreamer should see before him/her a
container, that has some red/yellowish/brownish/dark,
material inside, the result of an RP/I reaction, in
all likelihood.
.
First, the dreamer must decide whether or not this
container, in which the reacted materials are held, is
able to withstand direct heat from a stove or similar
burner, without breaking. If it is a pyrex or similar
piece of kitchenware, it is not stove top safe. If it
is Lab ware or Visio nware it is stove top safe. If it
is anything else other than something specifically
designed for stove top use, it will likely break. All
could be lost.
Heat up some distilled water (dH2O), until it is nice
and hot, like a very hot cup of coffee. Pour some onto
the reaction solution; just enough to raise the volume
of material, approximately 5 times that of the
reaction material alone. A minimum of 75ml is a good
guideline for first timers. As one is more acquainted
with the procedure, less or more may be used, as
preferred.
Swirl it around inside the reaction vessel, to loosen
any material clinging to the inside. If the vessel is
stove top safe, place it on heat and boil it for 5-10
minutes. If the reaction vessel is not, transfer the
solution to one that is.
The post reaction solution should appear as a clear
fluid, it may appear a little "milky or clouded", with
the Red Phosphorus (Rp) swirling around inside. It
will have a characteristic odor of "boiled onion" or
"cat pee".
If it is any darker, it should be boiled for the full
ten minutes, sometimes the Rp gives the illusion the
solution is dark. Let it settle and double check the
color. If it is yellow, boil it for up to 10 minutes
or so, it will likely clear. This color is usually
excess Iodine.
If the solution remains dark with Iodine,and strong

Iodine Odor or Vapor are noticed, in all likelihood

the reaction was incomplete. Although when refluxing
in particular, it could be clear and still not
complete, so keep this mind.
If it is very dark, it should be placed on very low
heat, allowed to evaporate to it's original volume. At
that time new Iodine, at least 75% of the original
amount, H2O, to discretion, and Rp, about 15-25% of
the original weight, should be added, and the reaction
restarted.
If the reaction solution is no darker than "honey"
after boiling, proceed. Though a clear or possibly a
clouded whitish solution is to be strived for on
subsequent reactions.
Step 2 Make a NaOH Solution
In a separate container, which should be oven safe
glass, a beaker, or a thick glass/ceramic mug. Pour in
100ml dH2O, slowly add lye (NaOH), with stirring until
no more will dissolve, at which time the solution is
saturated. A saturated solution contains as much of a
given material(s) that it can possible dissolve. The
amount of material they can dissolve, increases as
they are heated, and decreases as they are cooled. It
may take a few minutes so keep stirring. Do not inhale
the fumes, they may sting the eyes, the solution will
become quite hot. As the liquid stands it will cool
off and become clear, allow it to cool to room
temperature, it may be chilled if desired. Do not
touch, drink, or store this liquid where it could
unknowingly be a hazard. It is highly caustic and will
burn living human tissues, with only brief exposure.
It will be used later. Set it aside to cool.
Step 3 Filter Out the Rp
The post reaction solution, will now carefully be
filtered to remove all the Rp. A coffee or similar
filter is adequate, vacuum filtration is optimal.
Remember that the Rp may be saved, dried and re-used.
It is best to filter the solution directly into the
separatory funnel (or sep funnel), to keep the amount
of containers to a minimum, and reduce loss. Make
certain the filter has been pre-saturated with dH2O,
so it will not soak up product. Make sure to rinse the
Reaction Vessel, with dH20 and filter that as well.
This will help get any product or Rp sticking to the
sides, so it will not be lost.
Now go thoroughly clean the Reaction Vessel, and
thoroughly rinse it with dH2O, if it is of sufficient

size it will be used in the next step, if not use

another suitable container.
A separatory funnel, is a laboratory tool, consisting
of a container with a opening at the top, which can be
sealed, and an outlet at the bottom, which can be
opened and closed with a small valve . It resembles an
enclosed funnel, and in fact, is. It is, indeed, the
best tool to be used in this process. 500ml, is the
optimum size, for Dreaming hobbyists. If one intends
to be a Dreamer, it is an indispensable tool, and no
substitute, is as good. A sep funnel and a reaction
flask, are the most important lab ware, a Dreamer
could acquire. Suitable substitutes, can be fashioned
for this purpose easily, and plans are everywhere.
Even a Jar, could substitute, with a Turkey Baister,
to remove fluids, but it makes the process less
efficient and more difficult.
Step 4 Post Reaction NP Wash
Pour Xylene, Toluene, Hexane, Naphtha, Petroleum
Ether, Diethyl Ether or any suitable Non Polar Solvent
(NP), into the separatory funnel, in the amount of 1/3
the volume of the Filtered Reaction Solution. Swirl
and shake the sep funnel gently for a few minutes (not
seconds), and allow it to settle for a few minutes.
Two layers will be formed, one layer or phase, at the
top contains the NP, its called the organic layer. The
bottom layer is the dH2O, or the aqueous layer. It
should be noted that some less common NP solvents,
such as DCM (dichloromethane), settle to the bottom,
however, these aren't commonly available, to New
Dreamers or necessarily to be used in this
application.
After the solution settles for a minimum of 5 minutes,
and interface between the layers is distinct, drain
the aqueous layer carefully into the reaction flask.
Drain the organic layer into a suitable container and
set it aside. Pour the aqueous layer carefully back
into the sep funnel.
The sep funnel must be swirled or shaken very gently,
otherwise an emulsion could form. An emulsion will
cause the layers to separate slowly. Should this
happen, careful swirling may help to break the
emulsion. Simply allowing the emulsion to break over
time is otherwise employed. The key is being careful
to not proceed until the layers are well separated,
leaving a very distinct interface between them.
Repeat Step 4 again. More than once if desired.
Step 5 Basifying

The aqueous layer, should now be in the sep funnel

alone.
This will begin a process, known to chemists as an
"Acid Base Extraction" ( A/B), reference material
should be read on the matter, so the Dreamer will
understand how it works. A true understanding, will
make any unforeseen problems, easier to overcome.
For this step and others, New Dreamers, must obtain a
ph measuring device. Ph, means Power of Hydrogen , it
is a scale from 0 to 14, with 0 representing a totally
acidic solution, and 14 being a totally basic
solution, dH20 should be a ph7, or neutral, on the ph
scale. Strips, tape, and electronic checkers are
easily obtained, they should measure 0-14, and are
extremely inexpensive. Other ph checking methods may
be employed, the Red Cabbage Scale, is excellent as
well, look around for the plans.
Add some fresh NP Solvent to the sep funnel, about 1/2
the volume of the aqueous layer is best in the
beginning, at this stage. If the NP is Naphtha make
sure it is warmed before adding, otherwise it will not
easily absorb the product. Xylene or Toluene are, far
and away the best choices for New Dreamers here.
Xylene smells better, and is more widely accessible,
it is the Authors solvent choice, in these dreams.
Retrieve the now cooled NaOH solution, made in Step 2,
slowly and carefully add a small amount to the sep
funnel, 1-5ml.
The aqueous layer may get cloudy. Gently swirl the
funnel, moving it around, gently mixing and agitating
the fluids for 30 seconds. Continue adding NaOH, a
little at a time, and swirling, until the ph, reaches
14 (12.5 or higher, is adequate, but 14 is best used
initially). Small particles or bubbles may be
observed, rising toward the top of the aqueous layer.
Only the aqueous layer will have a ph reading to be
checked, the organic laye r is not checked.
When the ph 14 has been reached, the product in the
aqueous layer has became it's free base (FB) form, and
will begin to move into the organic layer. This
process takes some time, it is not instantaneous.
Now begin adding some plain table salt (NaCL), to the
sep funnel, slowly, with swirling, 2 or 3 grams at a
time, until no more will dissolve. This will take
awhile, gentle swirling is best, do not hurry. This
will help the H2O, to release its grasp on the
product, so it may migrate to the organic layer. Once
this process is complete, allow the sep funnel sit
undisturbed, until the layers are well separated, or a
minimum of 30 minutes.

Step 6 Water wash the NP layer:

After the sep funnel has sat at least 30 minutes,
carefully drain the aqueous layer, into a suitable
container. Do not, throw it away at this time. It may
contain product, and can be re-extracted later.
Occasionally some material will precipitate in the
aqueous layer, and hover just below the organic layer.
It should not be drained away when the aqueous layer
is removed at this time.
The organic layer should be in the funnel, alone, at
this point.
Now, more hot dH20, amounting to 1/2 the volume of the
organic layer, is added. The sep funnel should now be
gently stirred and swirled, for 3 or 4 minutes, to mix
the layers. This step will remove water soluble
compounds, that may contaminate the product, which is
not water soluble at this time. NaOH, will often be
trapped in the organic layer, this will remove it.
Allow the sep to sit until the layers are well
separated, a minimum of 5 minutes, undisturbed. Then
drain away the aqueous layer, saving it with the NaOH
solution previously removed. Drain away any
precipitant left over when the aqueous layer was
drained as well. Most likely it fell to the bottom of
the fresh dH2O. Repeat this Process 2 more times.
The organic layer will likely appear rather opaque or
cloudy at this time, as o pposed to crystal clear. It
is not a cause for alarm.
Step 7 Titriation or Titriating
Now the organic layer, should be in the sep funnel
alone.
Now add dH20, amounting to 1/4 to 1/2 the volume of
the organic layer.
Carefully drip 2 or 3 drops of Hydrochloric or Muratic
Acid (HCL), to the sep funnel. Shake the sep funnel
vigorously. Allow it to settle until the layers are
thoroughly separated (2 or 3 minutes minimum). Check
the ph, if the ph is 6 or lower, shake again, and
allow the funnel to sit for 10 minutes. Check the ph
again if it is still ph6 or lower, proceed to the next
step. If the ph is higher than 6, add 2 or 3 more
drops, repeating this process until ph6 is achieved.
If the ph is 7 or 8 when checked, add only 1 drop at a
time. This may require time, and many ph checks, do
not rush, do not add large amounts of acid rapidly.

The amount of acid required relates directly to the

amount of product in the solution.
If the starting material for the reaction, was 3 grams
or less, add only 1 drop of acid at a time, with any
addition of acid.
Before continuing, in any case, when ph6 or less is
obtained, shake the solution, allow it to settle for
10 minutes, then double check the ph.
This process, allows the FB product, to attach itself
to the HCL, and it becomes a consumable water soluble
salt. It will move in to the aqueous layer again. This
process should be performed carefully and slowly. If
the ph should, inadvertently become below 6, do not
panic, although it is undesirable.
Step 8 Evaporating
Now that the aqueous layer, is a stable ph6, it will
be ready to evaporate.
Carefully drain the aqueous layer into a suitable
evaporation dish (evap dish). Should any waxy or
"skin-like" substance be visible in the aqueous layer,
it should be filtered as it is added. Make certain the
filter has been pre-saturated with dH2O, so it will
not soak up product. Filtering will remove these solid
contaminants. A small funnel and filter should be
used. A tea strainer fitted with, a cut to size coffee
filter can be utilized if necessary. Add the organic
layer to the waste container, containing the aqueous
layer and water rinses from Step 6, to be saved and
re-extracted, at a later date. The sep funnel should
now be thoroughly cleaned, dried and put away for safe
keeping.
The evap dish itself, should be an oven safe dish at
bare minimum. A stove top safe dish or appropriate lab
ware are best. If the evap dish isn't stove top safe.
It must not be allowed to touch any heat source
directly, or be over heated. It could easily break. It
should be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed well with dH2O
before use.
Using very low heat, and a small fan gently blowing
over the surface of the dH2O/product solution. The H2O
will be slowly evaporated and crystals should be left
behind. Do not allow them to burn or be over heated.
The crystalline substance should be transparent, to
those well versed, the particular pattern of
crystallization can be recognized.

Once they have been thoroughly dried, they may be

scraped up carefully, with a razor blade or similar
device. They should be gathered in a small, clean
glass stove top safe jar or beaker and crushed to
powder. The powder should be a brilliant, sparkling
white, composed of tiny transparent crystals. It may
have a yellow tint if contaminated or the ph was below
6, in the previous step.
Once they have been gathered and dried. A small amount
of very cold, 0C, dried acetone (tone), should be
poured over them so they are covered. A dried solvent
contains little or no H2O, they are dried with a
drying agent like Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate
(Epsom Salt), which has been dehydrated in the oven
and added to the solvent. A drying agent soaks up
residual H2O, and will not dissolve in the solvent.
The solvent is then either filtered, or simply
decanted off the drying agent, and used as needed. Sol
vent drying techniques are easily performed, and many
techniques are written in detail. Swirl the acetone,
allow the crystals to settle a moment, and carefully
decant the acetone, leaving the crystals in the jar.
The acetone should be decanted, into another
container, in the event some crystals are poured
inadvertently. Repeat this step 2 more times. If the
powder was discolored, more repeats may be required
The crystals should then be allowed to dry.
Once they have dried, the product is in the form of a
crude HCL salt, that is ready to undergo
Recrystalization. Recrystalizing them is key to obtain
maximum potential of the product. Documents describing
it are abundant, several methods are available. A
simple dual-solvent recrystalization should be
adequate, for New Dreamers.
Afterward
This simple procedure, is possibly the least
understood, by those just starting. It very often is
the main barrier between first time success and
failure. No step can be skipped, this is the crudest
version, which should ever be pondered. Many
refinements and options, can, and have been made, to
better achieve it's end. Such as, Titriation could
replaced with bubbling the dried organic layer with
anhydrous HCL gas, to directly precipitate crystals,
or once the Reaction solution was basified, it could
be distilled. Distillation is a far superior process,
which should be studied once this one is well
familiar. May Joy and Success follow the Dreamer into eternity.
Thats it folks. Thats the end. This is a very complete and easy to understand
compilation of writeups. These are not real and do not ever try them. Just dream it.
Keep this bitch bumped.