3x2 Water Barrel Rack

9.750 40.500
26.500
14.000
R11.750 13.115
5.500

81.000
"C3" Front and Rear Cross-Beams

3.500

3.500

5.500 24.000

3.500
59.500
"E"
5.500 H. 2x4
81.000 Brace Beams

28.000
1.500 3.500

28.000

5.500

1.500
"B" "D3"
"A" V. Rear H. 2x4 "F"
V. Front 2x6 Posts Top Beams H. 2x4
2x6 Posts Support Beams
Start with good quality 2x6 lumber. Dimension the lumber with a planer to
1.5x5.5", or adjust the 1.5x5.5" notches accordingly. Use construction
adhesive and screws.
 3x2 Water Barrel Rack
D3
E
B
B
D3 B
A E B
A
A
C3
A
F
F
C3
E

(0) Optionally apply sealer/stain to the lumber, before or after cutting it.
(1) Assemble front rack by laying four A's down and placing two C2's and one D2 into their notches. One at a
time, remove D2 and C2's, applying construction adhesive to mating surfaces of A's, replacing D2/C2, and
attaching firmly with two 2.5" or 3" screws at each joint. Optionally, you can pre-drill each hole with a bit
rougly 1/3-1/2 the diameter of the screw, to prevent splitting. When complete, measure both diagonals and
clamp as necessary to make them equal; this ensures a "true" (square) frame.
(2) Repeat for the rear rack. Allow construction adhesive to fully cure, at least over night.
(3) Stand front and rear racks up (note that the C2's of both racks are on the front side, and the D2s are on
the outsides), and connect with E's, applying construction adhesive to ends of E's. Screws will be attached a
45deg angle from above and below, through end of E into A and B. Measure both diagonals and clamp as
necessary to ensure the rack is true. Also measure and true the horizontal diagonals between inner corners
of A and B. Optionally, you could add E's between the upper C2's.
(4) Optionally allow construction adhesive to cure overnight.
(5) Attach water barrel support beams F, two per barrel notch. Place one pair without construction adhesive,
insert an empty water barrel, and note whether the barrel is supported by only F's, only C2's, or both, and
adjust the height/offset of all F's as you wish. Placing F's flush with C2 barrel notches, or 1/4" lower, is a goo
approximation for those common blue barrels. Attach all F's with construction adhesive and two screws. The
exact angular placement of F's is not critical; just be consistent.
 3x2 Water Barrel Rack

G3 I3 G3

H I3
Front Rear H

The plywood is necessary, to give the rack "shear" strength, so it doesn't parallelogram and collapse in an
earthquake or a teenagerfestival and squash your dog.
G3 = 35x81" 3/4" plywood
H = 35x60" 3/8" plywood (a bit less than 60 is fine)
I3 = 81.75x30" 3/8" plywood (a bit less than 30 is fine)
(6) Optionally apply sealer/stain to the plywood and the rack.
(7) Attach G3 so it is flush with the front of the front rack, and centered left-right. Use 1.5" screws, and attach
G3 to both D3's and all upper E's; don't bother screwing it into the end-grain of the A's or B's, as screws don
hold well in end-grain. Construction adhesive is optional.
(8) Attach H's so their top edge is flush with the top of G3, and their front edge is flush with the front of the A
of the front rack. It is good if the H's do NOT extend all the way to the floor; leave more than 1/4" gap, and
the H's won't catch the ground and tear, when you slide the rack around your garage.
(9) Attach the upper I3 so its top edge is flush with the top of G3, and it is centered. Ideally it will not extend
beyond the H's. Attach the lower I3 flush against the upper I3. It is good if the lower I3 does NOT extend all
the way to the floor, so it doesn't tear when you slide the rack around your garage.
 2x2 Water Barrel Rack Parts
14.250
R11.750
13.115

5.500
55.000

"C2" Front and Rear Cross-Beams

3.500

3.500 1.500 24.000

5.500
3.500

"E"
H. 2x4
1.500 Brace Beams
59.500
5.500
55.000 3.500

28.000

28.000

5.500

1.500
"A" "B" "D2" "F"
V. Front V. Rear H. 2x4 H. 2x4
2x6 Posts 2x6 Posts Top Beams Support Beams
 D2 2x2 Water Barrel Rack
E
B
B
E
D2 B
A
F F
A
C2
C2
A
C2

E
C2

(0) Optionally apply sealer/stain to the lumber, before or after cutting it.
(1) Assemble front rack by laying three A's down and placing two C2's and one D2 into their notches. One at
a time, remove D2 and C2's, applying construction adhesive to mating surfaces of A's, replacing D2/C2, and
attaching firmly with two 2.5" or 3" screws at each joint. Optionally, you can pre-drill each hole with a bit
rougly 1/3-1/2 the diameter of the screw, to prevent splitting. When complete, measure both diagonals and
clamp as necessary to make them equal; this ensures a "true" (square) frame.
(2) Repeat for the rear rack. Allow construction adhesive to fully cure, at least over night.
(3) Stand front and rear racks up (note that the C2's of both racks are on the front side, and the D2s are on
the outsides), and connect with E's, applying construction adhesive to ends of E's. Screws will be attached at
45deg angle from above and below, through end of E into A and B. Measure both diagonals and clamp as
necessary to ensure the rack is true. Also measure and true the horizontal diagonals between inner corners
of A and B. Optionally, you could add E's between the upper C2's.
(4) Optionally allow construction adhesive to cure overnight.
(5) Attach water barrel support beams F, two per barrel notch. Place one pair without construction adhesive,
insert an empty water barrel, and note whether the barrel is supported by only F's, only C2's, or both, and
adjust the height/offset of all F's as you wish. Placing F's flush with C2 barrel notches, or 1/4" lower, is a good
approximation for those common blue barrels. Attach all F's with construction adhesive and two screws. The
exact angular placement of F's is not critical; just be consistent.
 2x2 Water Barrel Rack
G2 I2 G2

H I2 H
The plywood is necessary, to give the rack "shear" strength, so it doesn't parallelogram and collapse in an
earthquake or a teenagerfestival and squash your dog.
G2 = 35x55" 3/4" plywood
H = 35x60" 3/8" plywood (a bit less than 60 is fine)
I2 = 55.75x30" 3/8" plywood (a bit less than 30 is fine)
(6) Optionally apply sealer/stain to the plywood and the rack.
(7) Attach G2 so it is flush with the front of the front rack, and centered left-right. Use 1.5" screws, and attach
G2 to both D2's and all upper E's; don't bother screwing it into the end-grain of the A's or B's, as screws don
hold well in end-grain. Construction adhesive is optional.
(8) Attach H's so their top edge is flush with the top of G2, and their front edge is flush with the front of the A
of the front rack. It is good if the H's do NOT extend all the way to the floor; leave more than 1/4" gap, and
the H's won't catch the ground and tear, when you slide the rack around your garage.
(9) Attach the upper I2 so its top edge is flush with the top of G2, and it is centered. Ideally it will not extend
beyond the H's. Attach the lower I2 flush against the upper I2. It is good if the lower I2 does NOT extend all
the way to the floor, so it doesn't tear when you slide the rack around your garage.