When France pitched its glossily framed bid for this
championship tournament the campaign slogan plastered across the posters and plinths was Le Foot comme on laime!. Football how you like it is a suitably sunny and inane Big Sport tagline, not to mention for anyone trying to escape the wild, barking disintegration of Marseille city centre on Saturday night a source of some rather bitter laughter in the dark. On ne laime pas en effet; On ne laime pas du tout. Last week Michel Platini, for whom the next few weeks were intended as a kind of coronation, announced his intention to remain grandly absent from the matches. He might just have a point. Bolt the doors, Michel. Judging by the evidence not just of Marseille but also the jumpy, stretched periphery of the opening game in Paris, it could be a long old four weeks. Certainly the past three days have provided a genuinely grim start in the south. The weather has turned in the north, with rain falling in Paris, which still seems a little un-gripped by football mania. Une Ombre sur Marseille, a shadow on Marseille, was the morning headline in La Provence. And the clouds of Marseille will now linger as Uefa opens disciplinary proceedings, future schedules are checked, shivers of apprehension gulped back.
If we cast all football fans as thugs, only the
hooligans win Zoe Williams
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Marseille was a frantic, wild place in the wee hours of
Sunday morning, with thousands of frightened fans and tourists wandering through a city that appeared to have given up on them. It seems a fair bet the 8th circle of hell, the one Dante considered vaguely but gave up on as a little too banal and pointless, has a section where you get to trudge through glass and vomit at 1.30am past bolted Mtro stations, while weeping children in replica shirts stumble about with their frightened parents looking for nonexistent transport, peering down side streets, plotting escape routes from the sudden spurts and burps of violence that flared again through the night. The Mtro was running, but not the stop near the stadium, and without any guidance on where to join it. Taxi drivers had understandably vanished. No buses ran, or at least none were to be seen. Sirens blared past the gaggles of temporarily dispossessed, heading for the violence in the port area. Several British citizens are still in hospital. Social media pictures have flashed around of one man being kicked repeatedly in the head as he lay on the floor. Police had to resuscitate an unconscious 51-year-old man who
witnesses suggested had been attacked with a small axe.
Wandering through in the afternoon, it seemed bizarre a football match, of all things, complete with saccharine corporate staging, scrolled with adverts for financial services and beer and computer games, was about to actually take place. What to make of this? Some will say you reap what you sow and take a quietly censorious satisfaction in the spectacle of that tiny minority of England fans who enjoy intimidating the locals feeling a prickle at the back of their necks. Here Englands own regulars met an even more furious force in Russias massed and vicious hooligan gangs. This, though, is to miss the point completely. It is quite clear a group of violent Russian men came to Marseille with the idea of attacking English people. A few English people were already acting boorishly and violently. Local gangs enjoyed prodding the hive and taking a penance on their own streets. But all of these factions are a small, toxic minority, from whom local citizens and thousands of peaceable visitors need proper protection, just as they do from pickpockets, muggers and criminals of all types. This is where the city, the police, Uefa and the stadium management failed miserably. Uefa has announced it will now probe the violence inside the stadium. First stop: its wretchedly negligent lack of segregation between the two main groups of fans. Russia fans didnt clamber across into the England section. They just ran through an empty space. These were two solid, packed-out opposing
sections. Before kick-off jaws dropped well, this jaw
anyway at the sight of nothing but a walkway between them. Violence seemed inevitable.