Quality Control Manual For Leather Garment Technology

LEATHER & LEATHER PRODUCT TECHNOLOGY INSTITUTE 2002 E.
LEATHER GARMENT AND GOODS MANUFACTURING

TECHNOLOGY DIRECTORATE
QUALITY CONTROL FOR LEATHER GARMENT

TECHNOLOGY
Prepared by:
GETACHEW ADHENA (BSC TEXTILE ENGINEERING)
Thursday, March 25, 2010
Quality control for leather garment technology BY GETACHEW

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LEATHER & LEATHER PRODUCT TECHNOLOGY INSTITUTE 2002 E.C
ADISS ABEBA_ ETHIOPIA
Table of Contents
Chapter1Introduction to quality control...................................................................................................1
Chapter2 Quality control definition.........................................................................................................3
2.1. Basic concept of quality.......................................................................................................3
2.2. Dimension (parameter) of quality........................................................................................5
2.3. Basic concepts of quality control.........................................................................................7
2.3.1 The meaning of control.........................................................................................7
2.3.2. Stages of quality control......................................................................................7
2.4. Why quality is important.....................................................................................................8
Chapter 3 Quality control.........................................................................................................................9
3.1. Quality determination..........................................................................................................9
3.2. Main aspects to be considered in quality control.................................................................9
3.3. What to control..................................................................................................................10
3.4. When to control..................................................................................................................11
3.5. Approaches to apply quality control..................................................................................11
3.6. Who shall be involved in quality control? ........................................................................11
Chapter 4 Process inspection.................................................................................................................13
4.1. Definition of inspection.....................................................................................................13
4.2. Objectives of inspection.....................................................................................................14
4.3. function of inspection........................................................................................................14
4.3.1. Raw material inspection.....................................................................................15
4.3.2. in-process inspection..........................................................................................19
4.3.3. Final inspection..................................................................................................24
4.4.4. purchased parts inspection.................................................................................25

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4.4.5. Tools inspection.................................................................................................25
4.4. Systems of inspection........................................................................................................25
4.4.1. Floor inspection.................................................................................................25
4.4.2. Central inspection..............................................................................................26
4.4.3. combined inspection..........................................................................................26
4.5. Types of inspection............................................................................................................26
4.5.1. 100% inspection.................................................................................................27
4.5.2. Sample inspection..............................................................................................27
4.5.3. First off inspection/initial inspection.................................................................28
4.5.4. Working inspection............................................................................................29
4.5.5. Functional inspection/last-off/...........................................................................29
4.5.6. Final test and inspection....................................................................................29
Chapter 5 Physical testing for leather garment......................................................................................31
5.1. Conditioning......................................................................................................................31
5.2. Measurement of flexibility.................................................................................................32
5.3. Measurement of tear strength.............................................................................................34
5.4. Measurement of tensile strength........................................................................................37
5.5. Measurement of color

fastness...........................................................................................40
Chapter 6 Statistical quality control.......................................................................................................41
Chapter 7 Quality assurance and ISO quality management

system.......................................................50
Chapter 8 Total quality management (TQM)........................................................................................66
8.1. Introduction to TQM..........................................................................................................66
8.2. TQM tools..........................................................................................................................67
8.3. Quality gurus......................................................................................................................69
8.4. Quality
costs.......................................................................................................................74
8.5. Implementation of TQM....................................................................................................77

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Reference ..............................................................................................................................................86
CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY CONTROL
There is today a noticeable increase of interest in quality control on the part both of
industries and society in general. There are several reasons for this greater interest:
 Higher demands for quality from customers
 Greater competition
 Demand for better profitability. Often however there is a lack of knowledge of

ways of dealing with product quality.
It is not only for the users of industrial products that quality is meaningful. It is also an
important matter for the manufacturers. Poor quality means costs for manufacture in finding
and rectifying (repair or correct) defects. Poor quality leads to reduction in market share due
to a loss of confidence on the part of the customers.
It is apparent to most manufacturers that poor quality has a negative effect on profitability. It
is not so obvious to many manufacturers, however, that possibilities exist to improve profits
by systematic work on product quality even where the situation is considered to be
satisfactory.
Single results will not be achieved through work on single department in the enterprise, it is
necessary for all those functions which comes into contacts with the products during its
developments, manufactures and use to co-operate in this work. This means that quality must
be considered and controlled by all these functions.
 Market research
 Product development

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 Manufacturing engineering
 Purchasing
 Production
 Inspection
 Marketing and after-sale service
Our lives are dependent in many ways of industrial product, shelter, nutrition,
communication, heath care work and national security. One basic aspect of products of this
type (regardless of whether they are goods or services ) if that must be fit for uses failure in
this respect can lead to death, injury, discomfort or economic loss.

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CHAPTER TWO
QUALITY CONTROL DEFINITION
2.1. Basic concept of Quality
Meet specification, fitness for use, anything that can be improved, absence of
variation, conformance to requirements and bad quality is social loss.
Control
Preventing defects from happening
The subjective definition of element of quality relation to the design, style, color, and
\aesthetics. Objectively, quality is the ability to meet consistently the return and clearly
started specification. These aimed at producing a product suitable for end use and price.
Different scholars or authors define quality; however Professor David Garvin, from Harvard
University defines in to the following principal.
1. Product-based quality view
2. User (customer) based quality view
3. Manufacturing based quality view
4. Value-based quality view
1. Product based quality views

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In this view, quality is determined as a precise and measurable variable and difference
in quality reflects differences in the quality of some ingredient or attitude seen to be
possessed by a product. In this view quality and quantity has direct relation
2. User (customer) based quality view
In this view, definitions are based on the premise that solely the user determined
quality. Individual customers are assumed to have different wants or needs and goods
that best satisfy the preference are the one they regarded, as having the highest
perceived quality. Quality is fitness for use that this view also reflects a highly
personalized and subjective view
3. Manufacturing based quality view
This view focuses on manufacturing and engineering practices. It emphasis

conformance to specified requirements. The higher the degree that meets specified
requirements the higher the quality. This view seeks to ensure that the deviations from
standards set design specifications are minimized.
To achieve the quality of conformance means improving in the design of the
• Equipment
• Materials
• Supervision
• Control
• Training
4. Value based quality view
The base for this view is physiological understanding of the meaning of value.
Consequently, customers have been conditioned to accept that the quality of product
is determined by the price. There for price and quality have a direct relation ship
5. Trader based quality view

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This views deals about that we shall get the right product to the right place at the right
time while exceeding our customer’s expectation.
Quality has not specific or common definition or meaning. Some of general definition
of quality
 Quality is a system which produces a product service, information or delivery on

target with manual variance which meets customers’ needs.
 Quality is complete satisfaction (performance, appearance, longevity (long life) at

the lowest possible cost.
 Quality is to reach customer’s needs at low rates (costs) to the company and
achieving employ satisfaction.
 Quality is the extent to which products, services, products and relationships are free
from defects, constrains (limitation) and items which do not add value for
customers
 The AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE define<< quality as the

totality of features and characteristics of a product or services that bear (accept or
allow) on its ability to satisfy given needs
Quality connotes different meaning to different peoples. Its concepts may be easy to grasp
but formulating a universal definition is difficult. Some definitions are given below.
 Quality is fitness for purpose or use. Or quality is customer satisfaction. (Jurdan

1974G.C)
 Quality should be aimed at the needs of the customer, present and feature. (Deming)
 Quality is the degree of excellence (fineness). (Webster)
 Quality means best for the certain condition
a. The actual use and
b. The selling price (Feugenbaum 1983 G.C)

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2.2. Dimensions (parameters) of quality
Quality is an important factor which customers looks for in a product to give total
satisfaction. Some of the important parameters of quality are listed below:
1. Performance: (will the product do the intended (planed or proposed) job). Potential
costumer usually evaluate a product to determine if it will perform certain specific
functions and determine how well it perform them.
Example: producing document case leather bag, for what purpose does this bag
produced, does the bag has multi function pocket?
2. Reliability: (how often does the product fail?) different products may need repair
over their service life. The leather machineries should be also reliable so as to
increase productivity.
Example: when we produce the leather garment, it needs higher attention during
stitching. Because the nature of the needle is like cuter edge type and stitch the
component by cutting the part. So re stitching is not done, means no repaired and the
product is rejected.
3. Durability: (how long does the product last?). This is the effective service life of the
product customer obviously want products that performed satisfactorily over a long
period of time.
Example: producing leather garment coat for a big man and if the coat is not with his
physical structure. Does the garment have long life? No, because the person may loss
his comfort and reject the product in short period of time.
4. Serviceability: (how easy is it to repair the product?). There are many industries
where the customer’s view of quality is directly influenced by how quickly and
economically a repair or routine maintenance activity can be accomplished.
Example: planed maintenance of stitching machine.

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5. Aesthetics :( what does the product look like?). this is the visual appeal of the
product, often taking into account factors such as style, color, shape, packaging
alternatives and other sensory features.
6. Features :( what does the product do? ). Usually customer associate high quality with
products that have added features: that is, those that has features beyond the basic
performance of the competition.
2.3. Basic concepts of quality control
Quality control is concerned with the operational techniques for detecting, recording and
taking action to eliminate quality problems. It refers to all activities (process) and
technologies that are used to achieve or maintain the quality of a product or service’
Quality control focuses on finding and eliminating of source of defects and monitoring the
manufacturing process. Quality control consists of developing, designing producing,
marketing, service products and services with optimum cost- effectiveness and usefulness,
which customers will purchase with satisfaction.
In leather industry, quality control should be concerned with the evaluation of test data and its
application to the control of the leather process, raw materials, intermediate products and
final products.
For effective quality control, it is necessary to exercises control over the input material,
process, and employment of skilled labor, management techniques and use of appropriate
tools, equipment and machines
Quality control in eliminating of material wastes and ensures in quality product and full
customers satisfaction.
2.3.1. The meaning of control
Any control system has certain essential features, as follows

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1. There is a plan / in our case the quality standard/
2. We prepare to carry out that plan
3. We carry it out, and all the time we compare what is being achieved with our plan.
4. If we begin to deviate from the plan we ‘feed back’ instruction, so that we return to
the plan
2.3.2. Stages of quality control
There are five stages of quality control and which is written in quality control terms are
1. Set the quality standard or quality desidgn required by the customers
2. Plan to achieve the required quality. This will involve.
a. Planning methods
b. Planning equipment
c. Obtaining satisfactory materials
d. Selecting and training operators
e. Planning inspection and shop floor quality control
3. Manufacture right first time
4. Correct any quality deficiencies
5. Provide for long term quality control and planning.
2.4. Why quality is important?
According to Korathi (1999 G.C), various reports have indicated the following six benefits of
quality:
1. Greater market share
2. Higher growth rate
3. Higher earning
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4. Premium price
5. Loyal customers
6. High motivated employs
CHAPTER THREE
QUALITY CONTROL
3.1 Quality determination
Quality can be determined through the following methods
A. By visualizing (inspecting)
This means that, if you feel better by observing on the product, we can say the product has
good quality. The reverse is true.
B. By touching
This means that, when we are touching the product and if it has shine and smooth surface we
feel better as compare to the product which has rough surface and we can say the product has
better quality.
C. By testing
This means that we takes sample of the product and taste some property in the laboratory then
compare the taste result with the given standard value. If the test result is approaches to the
standard given value, then we can say the product is good quality.

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3.2. Main aspects to be considered in the quality control
A. set-up
If the set-up is correct, the whole lot will conform to the specification, such process includes
labeling, and cutting and checking is done by first inspection.
B. machine tools
During production time –to-time change can occur which leads to defects and necessary
checking production.
c. operators
The process is such that the results depend on the skill and attention of the operators.
It is important in manufacturing planning to decide on the operators working methods,

aptitude and experience must be considered when selecting operators.
D. Material components
Raw material and component influence results. A process of this type is assembling different
component. In this case it is very important to assure quality in earlier stage by in process
inspection
3.3. What to control
From the definition of quality, what we understand about preventing defect from happening,
so we should control anything that may made defects from the raw material up to finished
leather
Controlling in leather processing
 Control the amount of chemical added in each production step
 Control the duration for each production time

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 Control the temperature
 Control the ph value
Controlling in leather garment spreading and cutting
 Controlling the size of cutting blade, sharpness of the blade
 Cleanness of the cutting table
 Pattern mixed
Controlling in sewing room
 Needle damage
 Feed damage
 Thread broken
 Inoperative zipper
3.4. When to control
In the garment industries quality control is practiced right from the initial stege of sourcing
the raw material to the stage of final finished garment, so quality control is carried out
throughout the whole system from starting to ending of the process.
To ensure at minimum practicable cost, that the requisite quality of product is being achieved
at every stage of manufacture from raw material to boxed stock.
3.5. Approaches to apply quality control
 Itemize the variable that occurs in fabric and garment production in order to provide a
complete specification.
 Develop a specification in a number of parts of sections to ensure that all design and
production staff has clear idea as what is needed
 Establish acceptable working tolerances in relation to all values on the specification

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 Establish fault rate recording systems
 Improve technical understanding of the product including
• Fabric properties (skin and hide)
• Sewing problems
• Causes and prevention of seam break down
3.6. Who shall be involved in quality control?
Responsibility for the production of good quality lies with and in the hand of
The person teaching the job
Primarily by good communication
By making new comer aware of specifications and tolerances, faults themselves, their
effect and the appropriate action to take. Such communication or training if properly planned
and executed (implemented) will greatly assists in minimizing the cost of poor quality.
For controlling the quality, the following groups are involved:
• Individual operator
• Supervision
• Mechanics
• Quality control inspector
• Quality control head
• Trainer
• Instructor
• Chief executive

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CHAPTER FOUR
PROCESS INSPECTION
4.1. Definition of inspection
What is garment inspection?
Inspection in reference to quality control in the apparel industry can be defined as the visual
examination or review of raw materials (such as fabric, buttons, zippers, sewing threads, etc),
partially finished components of the garments and completely finished garments in relation to
some standards, specifications, or requirements including the measurement of the garments to
ensure the satisfaction of the customers.
Principle involved in inspection
Inspection

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Detection of
defects
Correction of
defects
Feed back of these

defects to appropriate
personnel
Determination of causes and

defects
Advantage and importance
• Avoid wastage of time and money
• Avoid the unnecessarily use of resource
• Helps in timely delivery of goods
• Guarantees customers satisfaction
4.2. Objectives of inspection
1. Various objectives of inspection are:
2. Isolate good lots from bad lots
3. Isolate good items from bad items
4. Rate the capacity of the process
5. Measure the product quality
6. Rates the inspection accuracy
7. Measure the degree of precision of the measuring instrument used in inspection
8. Procure information about product design and

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9. To calibrate measuring standard and instrument
4.3. Function of inspection
There are different types of inspection function.
• Raw material inspection
• Process inspection
• Finished (final) inspection
• Purchased part inspection
• Tools inspection
4.3.1 raw material inspection

 Fabric inspection: After fabric is received, it should be inspected to determine its
acceptability from a quality view point; otherwise, extra cost in garment
manufacturing may be incurred due to either the loss of the material or time, to say
nothing of customer returns and dissatisfaction due to poor quality. Some garment
manufacturers rely on their fabric suppliers to perform fabric inspection and mark
fabric defects.
Fabric inspection is usually done on fabric inspection machines, such machines are
designed so that rolls of fabric can be mounted behind the inspection table under adequate
light and rolled as they leave the table. Defects in a fabric can be seen readily with these
machines ,as the inspector has a very good view of the fabric and the fabric does not need
to be reversed to detect defects .These inspection machines are either power-driven or the
inspector pulls the fabric over the inspection form. Such machines are also equipped to
accurately measure the length of each roll of fabric as well as monitor the width of the
fabric.
There are various fabric inspection systems such as 4-point system, 10-point system and
Graniteville “78 “system.

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A. 4-point system: The 4 –point system, also called American Apparel Manufacturers
Association (AAMA) point grading system for determining fabric quality, is widely
used by producers of apparel fabrics. Fabric flaws or defects are assigned point values
based on the following:
Points allotted
Length of defect in fabric, either length or width
Up to 3 inch 1
Over 3 inches and up to 6 inch 2
Over 6 inches and up to 9 inch 3
Over 9 inches 4
Holes and openings (Largest dimensions)
1 inch or less 2
Over 1 inch 4
Total defect points per 100 yd2 are calculated, and normally those fabric rolls containing
more than 40 points /100 yd2 are considered “seconds “However a garment manufacturer,
based on the price line and type of garments produced, may use more or less than 40 points /
100 yd2 as an acceptance criteria.
For example, a fabric roll 120 yd long and 48 inch wide contains the following defects:
2 defects up to 3 inch 2x1 = 2 points

5 defects over 3 inch but less than 6 inch 5x2 = 10 points
1 defect over 6 inch but less than 9 inch 1x3 = 3 points
1 defect over 9 inch 1x4 = 4 p0ints
Total defect points = 19 points

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Therefore,
Total points scored in the roll x 3600
Points /100 yd2 = Fabric width in inches x total yards inspected
= 19 x 3600
48 x 120
= 11.9 defect points /100 yd2
So if the acceptance criteria are 40 points /100 yd2, then this roll is acceptable. The maximum
number of defects to be counted against any one linear yard is 4 points. Overall, fabric quality
is assessed on the basis of the number of defect points per 100 yd2 of fabric.
B. 10-point system
Under this system, fabric defects are assigned point values based on the following
Length of defects Pointed allotted
Warp defects
• Up to 1 in. 1
• 1 to 5 in. 3
• 5 to 10 in. 5
10
• 10 to 36 in.
Filling defects
• Up to 1 in. 1
• 1 to 5 in. 3
• 5 in to half width 5
10
• Larger than half width
No linear yard of fabric is assigned more than 10 points, no matter how bad or frequent the
defects are. Fabric is considered “first” quality if the number of defects point is less than the
number of yards of fabric inspected. In the case of fabrics wider than 50 in., the fabric is
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considered first if the total defect points do not exceed the number of yards of fabric
inspected by 10 %.
Powderly speaking compared 4 point and 10 point systems and noted that a 4 point system
tends to classify more fabrics at first.
C. Graniteville “78” system

This inspection is used for the woven and knitted fabrics only, not concerned for non woven
fabric like leather.
 Sewing threads: During the sewing process in a high speed lock stitch machine, the
thread is subjected to complex kinematics and dynamic conditions. The speed at
which it passes through the needle eye can reach 140 –165 km/hr and at the moment
at which the thread is caught by the sewing hook , the speed reaches 2000 m/sec
,while moving at such speeds ,the thread is subjected to friction from a number of
guides ,from the needle eye ,from the fabric being sewn , from bobbin case
assembly ,and from the bottom thread. At the same time, the thread is subjected to
many stresses, all of which take place very quickly and at high speed. Therefore
,sewing threads should be checked for the following characteristics :
 Construction of yarn ( count ,number of twist, strength )
 Sewability (ability to sew).
 Imperfections (should be free from slubs, knots, etc).
 Finish ( yarn should be smooth ,lubricate ,etc )
 Colour (should match with the standard).
 Package density.
 Winding (winding should be uniform).
 zippers : it should check for the following :
- Dimensions ( check for the correct width of tape )

- Top and bottom stops should be fastened securely.
- Zipper tape should be uniform in colour if that is important.
- Pull tab should be affixed firmly to the slider body.

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- Slider should ride freely but must not be so free that it is loose on the chain.
- Check also to be sure the slider locks securely.
 buttons, buckles, snap fasteners, and so on:
Buttons: should have large, clean sew holes that are free from flash and will not cut the
thread. Holes must be located properly in relation to the edge of the button. Buttons should be
of uniform thickness.
Buckles: should be checked for any visual defects such as sharp, burred edges. If a buckle is
cloth –or vinyl covered, there should not be an appreciable difference in the buckle and
garment materials.
Snap fasteners: The attaching machinery should locate the snap fasteners accurately and at
proper pressure .Component parts should be checked to close tolerances and free from dirt
and other foreign substances so that they will feed rapidly through the hopper and permit
uniform and trouble free assembly.
4.3.2. In –process inspection

In – process inspection means the inspection of parts before they are assembled into a
complete product. In apparel manufacturing, this means inspection at various points in the
entire manufacturing process from spreading fabric to pressing /finishing. In –process
inspection can be either quality control inspector or individual operators themselves after they
perform their respective operation (s).
 Spreading:
Various factors that can affect spreading should be checked, such as the cleanness of the
spreading table, surface area of the table, the position of the table whether inclined or not,
spreading of the leather whether tight spread or spread with low tension.
Defects during spreading:
Pattern defects: during preparing the patterns of a garment, we should take care so that it is
possible to avoid the defects of garment. The following are the pattern defects.
1- Pattern parts missing: correct number of parts for all sizes not included by the marker
maker.

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2- Mixed parts: parts not correctly labelled in marker, therefore a marriage of wrong –sized
parts.
3- Patterns not all facing in the same direction (either way).
4- Patterns not facing in the correct direction on napped fabrics.
5- Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain.
6- Line definitions poor (e.g. chalk, too thick, etc) leading to inaccurate cutting.
7- Not enough knife clearance of freedom.
8- Mismatched checks and stripes.
9- Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct, or misplaced.
 cutting :
Cutting quality is a prerequisite for quality in a finished product. In addition, cut work quality
affects the ease and cost with which construction is accomplished. The quality of work
leaving the cutting room is determined by how true the cut fabric parts are to the pattern, how
smooth or rough the cut surface is material or fabric defects in the cut fabric parts, shade
differences between cut fabric pieces within a bundle.
Advantages of in-process inspection

1. Reduction of major supervision from the customers due to bad quality.
2. Decrease in labour cost due to a decrease in repair rates.
The operators and supervision are constantly reminded that the company has a specific
quality level to meet, just be the very presence of the inspectors in their section on daily
basic.
Because each worker will realize that his/her work is subject to being inspected at any time
throughout the day the quality of the work produced by workers will improve.
The data obtained can be effectively analyzed and utilized by the production supervision and
part manager in correcting problems or improving quality.
Sewing defects: defects of garment occur due to some problems of sewing .It is possible to
list some defects of sewing as follows.

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1- Needle damage as evidenced by holes, picked threads, ruptured threads, or other damage
to the fabric, caused by wrong size or type of needle, blunt needle, needle heat, or machine
feeding difficulty.
2- Feed damage, particularly on thicker or sheer fabrics, or when machining over traverse
seams, arising from incorrect type of teeth, excessive pressure by foot, excessive machine
speed.
3- Skipped stitches, from the hook irregularity failing to pick up the loop of thread from a
needle’s eye owing to a number of causes.
4- Thread breaks, arising from too thick a thread for the needle, too thin a thread, needle
heat, too tight tension, etc.
5- Broken stitches ,arising from the wrong stitch type ,too tight tensions, a body formed
joint in the seam where the second line of stitch runs over the first and cracks it ,sharp feeds
,too great a pressure ,etc.
6- Seam grin arising from too loose a tension or too large a stitch, or the use of the wrong
stitch type.
7- Seam pucker, because of incorrect handling by the operator, misaligned notches, tight
thread tensions, etc.
8- Pleated seams, where operator failed to ease in fullness evenly.
9- Wrong stitch density: too many give rise to jamming and rupture of fabric threads, weak
seams.
10- Uneven stitch density: due to carelessness of the operator.
11- Improperly formed stitches, caused by bad tension, incorrectly adjusted timing.
12- Oil spots or stains.
Seaming Defects: It is the other type of defect of garment. Usually cased by errors arising from
the interaction of the operator and machine in the handling of the garment. Some of the seaming
defects are listed below.
1- Incorrect or uneven width of inlay, arising from bad handling by operator, incorrectly set
guide, incorrectly adjusted folder. In extreme cases, the seams burst open raw edges show,
slippage of weave threads occurs, or notches are exposed.
2- Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line (sometimes called run-offs) in top stitching,
arising from lack of or badly set guide, not following a mark.

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3- Insecure back stitching, because subsequent rows do not cover the first row of stitching.
4- Twisted seam leading to irregular puckering or the garment parts not hanging correctly
when worn, caused by improper alignment of fabric parts.
5- Mismatched checks or stripes.
6- Mismatched seam, where traverse seams do not match (eg inside leg seams at the fork of
trousers).
7- Extraneous part caught in seam, an unrelated piece showing through the seam.
8- Reversed garment part where part is sewn with face side opposite from specification,
perhaps when the part cut for one side of garment is sewn in the other, or when the whole
garment is assembled inside out.
9- Wrong seam or stitch type used.
10- Wrong shade of thread used.
Assembly defects : ( perhaps caused by errors arising in marking and cutting ,as well as sewing
operations in the sewing room, or a combination of these).The following are an examples of such
defects.
1- Finished garment not to size, arising from incorrect patterns, inaccurate marking or
cutting, shrinking or stretching fabric incorrect seam widths.
2- Finished components not correct to size or shape or not symmetrical.
3- Parts, components closures or features omitted, caused by bad work flow, and wrongly
printed work tickets, parts omitted in cutting.
4- Components or features wrongly positioned or misaligned arising from incorrect
marking ,or sewing not following the mark ( e.g. Pockets ,bar tracks, top stitching
buttonholes ,buttons, hooks and bars ,hooks and eyes, zips).
5- Interlining incorrectly positioned, twisted, too full, too tight cockling.
6- Lining too full, too tight, showing below the bottom of the garment, twisted, incorrectly
pleated, etc.
7- Garments parts cockling ,pleated, twisted, showing bubbles and fullness ,for example,
collar in relation to the under collar or the neck ,sleeve in relation to the arm hole ,pockets
,tapes zips, pads in relation to the shoulder.
8- Garment parts shaded owing to being mixed after cutting.
9- Parts in one way fabrics in wrong direction, usually only small parts, such as pockets.

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10- Mismatched trimming.

Controlling of fusing operation
Adjustment of time, temperature and pressure for given types of material to be fused based on the
manufacture recommendation in order to attain certain peel strength.
Control screen printing operation
Placement of design
Ink coverage
Pressing /finishing
Appearance is the basic of most consumers’ judgment on whether or not to purchase a garment.
The quality of a pressing operation can be measured by evaluating the following:
1. Broken zipper or button
2. Creased not correctly formed
3. Fabric of finished garment not smooth, wrinkle free and showing its proper appearance
4. Pocket not smooth
5. Lining showing creases
6. Shrinkage due to heat and moisture
Methods of controlling of garment defects
Since manufacturers vary in organizational structure, products manufactured, technological

levels, and so on .there cannot be a standard text book answer on how to start a quality
control program. However, the following are some general guide lines that are used to plan
and start a quality control program for the manufacturers.
To obtain an overall picture of where you stand in terms of quality, perform 100 % final
inspection of all styles for at least two or three weeks to collect information. Then analyze
this information. The following are various defects to look for during quality control.
 Broken button.
 Broken snaps.
 Broken stitching.
 Defective snaps.
 Different shades within the same garment.

ADHENA page 26
 Dropped stitches.
 Exposed notches.
 Exposed raw edges.
 Fabric defects.
 Holes
 Inoperative zipper.
 Loose/hanging sewing threads
 Misaligned buttons and buttonholes.
 Missing buttons.
 Needle cuts /chews.
 Open seams.
 Pulled /loose yarn.
 Stains.
 Unfinished button holes.
 Zipper to short
4.3.3. Final inspection

Final inspection consists of inspecting finished garments from the customers’ point of view
,size measurement ,form fitting ( putting garments on the proper size mannikins to see if they
properly fit the labelled sizes ),and live modelling if necessary ( again to see if the garments
properly fit the labelled sizes ).
Final inspection may occur before or after garments are packed in poly bags and boxes. It is
done after garments are packed, then proper size and style markings on the package can also
be checked .In any case, there should be a list of points to be checked in a garment, including
a table of finished measurements.
Let us see for instance final quality inspection of men’s shirt.

ADHENA page 27
Serial
No Location Inspection For
1 Collars Both points same length, uniformly stitched, No broken
stitches, should lay flat.
2 Buttons and Button holes Properly spaced, No puckering or fullness, No cut
stitches, No broken buttons.
3 Pocket Top of the pocket horizontal, uniformly stitched, corners
securely tacked, should lay flat.
4 Hems Uniformly stitched, No puckering, skip or broken stitch.
5 Yoke or shoulder Pleats properly placed, Uniformly stitched, No
puckering, Skipped or broken stitches.
6 Side seams Stripes, plaids, checks or patterns should match.
7 Cuff Stripes, plaids, checks or patterns should match the
sleeve.
8 Finished appearance Clean of all loose thread. No oil /dirt stains. Free of any
fabric defect.
4.4.4. Purchased parts inspection
The purchasing department will state in the purchased order that the vendor /seller/ is to
provide an initial sample before the first delivery. The aim of initial sample is to give the
customer an idea of how the vendor’s production will turn out in terms of quality. The sample
must be made by the same methods and in the same machines and tools which will be used in
future production. Both the size of the sample and the latest time for delivery must be given.
Before the initial sample is shipped, the vendor must inspect and test it to be sure that the
customer’s quality requirements are fulfilled. In order to avoid misunderstanding, only pone
department should have the contacts with venders on initial samples.
4.4.5. Tools inspection
Tools inspection helps to prevent lots too many defects getting through to production and
causing problem there.

ADHENA page 28
Tools inspection means identify and problem on the tools and justify whether the right tools
are used to the right position or place.
Tools inspection is done at each production department. For example, in case of leather
garment production, tools inspection is done in leather processing department, in cutting
department, in design and pattern making department, in sewing department and last finishing
department.
4.4 systems of inspection
4.4.1 floor inspection
It is a fast process as no material movement is involved in it.
It is a cheaper process too as a cost of transportation of the material from the floor to the
inspection room is nil.
It is highly efficient and most probably the only way of inspection for Buckley items.
The two main problem associated with floor inspection are
1. Service conditions at floor are not suitable for precision work.
2. There is a real possibility of the inspector being influenced by production personnel.
4.4.2 central inspection
It has certain advantages over floor inspection. So far as it can be carried our more precisely
and rapidly due to availability of all equipment at one place and the working condition are
better
Minimum possible interference is encountered in central room inspection.
It is well suited to incoming material inspection, finished production inspection and

inspection of high precision and delicate product; however, it is a time consuming inspection
as material movement is involved.
4.4.3 combined inspection

ADHENA page 29
Both floor inspection and central inspection are employed in a production unit, known as
combined inspection. On this case some component may be inspected at the floor level where
as other are inspected at the central room.
4.5. Types of inspection
There are different types of inspection:
A. 100%inspection
B. Sample inspection
C. First of inspection
D. Working inspection
E. Functional inspection
F. Testing complete product
4.5.1. 100% inspection
Every item in a lot is inspected for one or more characteristics.
It has its own advantages:
1. Inspection is done seriously and faults can be easily identify
2. Increase internal and external customer satisfaction
But the disadvantage is
1. Time consuming because of lot product for inspection each is difficult.
2. Cost for inspection is increased.
4.5.2. Sample inspection

ADHENA page 30
A sample of the lot is inspected for one or more characteristics. Sampling inspection may be
divided into:
1. Spot check
2. Statistical sampling inspection
In spot check inspection
Just a few items in the lots are inspected; the items for inspection might not be selected at
random.
In statistical sampling inspecting
Procedures based on statically theory are used. The procedures provided information on the
sample size and criteria of acceptance or rejection. The sampling done at random. The
probability of acceptance is considered.
Every item in the batch has an equal chance of being selected from the sample
Taking sample from a batch
Every sample which we take must be representatives of the batch, because we are going to
judge the quality of the batch by the quality of the sample. Some care and experience are
necessary in doing taking of samples from a batch, the following point will help:
1. Never take the whole sample from one part of the batch
2. Make sure that the sample does not come entirely from the top layers of the batch.
The bottom must be represented as well as the top, and one side as much as other
3. If a consignment (batch) consists of more than one package, then from each package
we take a sample which is roughly proportional to its size.

ADHENA page 31
4. We should never mix two small batches to gather to make one large for economically
in sampling, unless we know that both consignments are from the same production
runs.
5. We must beware of sampling bias if we have a batch in which some items are
obviously defective. Examples: suppose that finish is important and we received a
batch in which some items are obviously blemished (marked). It will be very difficult
to sample this fairly.
4.5.3. First off inspection / initial inspection
Initial/ first off/ inspection is a well known and valuable aid to quality control. Whenever and
wherever a production run is started, it will be prudent (careful) to check, the first piece,
assembly etc before the main run commence (began/start/).
We can detect many defects by checking the first off and so prevent the whole batch from
being wrong. The following are some of examples
1. We can check whether the machine or the equipment is correctly set up
2. We can discover whether the operator has fully understood his instructions
3. In many case we shall be able to detect the use of incorrect material.
A first off inspection is almost always worth doing, but some value of the work being
produced and partly on how far a correct first off ensures a correct run. The more expensive,
the work being made and the more it costs to put it right of it is incorrectly made, so the more
it will pay us to make sure that the run starts off correctly.
First off inspection ensures that the job starts correctly.
4.5.4. Working inspection
The objective of this type of inspection is to help the operators to make the whole run
correctly. From time to time the inspector will visit the machine or the operator concerned
and take a sample of the latest work made. If the quality is wrong on any point, then this must

ADHENA page 32
be corrected as quickly as possible. If an operator goes wrong, it is much kinder to tell him
quickly, so that he can correct himself before he has made a lot of out of limit work.
The primarily task of a working inspector is to help keep running correctly and therefore,
whatever the sample size, it should always include the last or almost the last item made
because this gives the latest news of the machine’s condition. It will tell the inspector and
operator whether the machine is still running correctly.
4.5.5. Functional inspection/last-off/
At the end of the run, the last piece made should be checked to see whether the tools etc are
still satisfactory condition. If they need regrinding or any other attention before they will be
fit for another run, this must be arranged before they are returned to store.
The functional inspection/ last-off/ can usually be combined with the last working inspection.
It is usually desirable to do a working inspection at end of run, in order to check on work
made since the last routine inspection.
4.5.6. Final test and inspection
The term “final test and inspection” is usually used to denote any inspection done after
manufacture has been completed, with the object of making sure that the goods concerned are
satisfactory to send to the customers or may be to another department for the next operation.
This type of inspection should therefore, be regarded as a check that out production quality
control is working satisfactory, and not as the quality control system itself.

ADHENA page 33
CHAPTER FIVE
PHYSICAL TESTING FOR LEATHER GARMENT
5.1. conditioning
Scope
This method describes the conditioning to be given to test specimens prior to physical testing.
Procedures

ADHENA page 34
During the 48 hours immediately preceding its use in a test, keep each specimen for physical
testing in a standard atmosphere of temperature 20+ 20c and relative humidity 65+2%.
Support the specimen so that air has free access to its surfaces and keep the air in continuous
rapid motion by a suitably placed fan. Perform all physical tests in the same standard
atmosphere unless otherwise specified.
Note
The required relative humidity of 65 +2% at 20+ 20c can be maintained in a closed space
either by the use of saturated solutions of certain salts in water (in which the solid phase is
also present in excess) or by the use of a solution of given concentration of sulphuric acid in
water the selected solution should be placed in a large shallow dish inside the enclosure.
Saturated solutions of either pure ammonium nitrite or pure sodium nitrite are satisfactory.
A solution of sulpheric acid 35.6 % by weight’s=1.270 is satisfactory. It is necessary to check

the density from time to time and restore it to the value 1.270 as require by appropriate
additions of either water or more concentrated sulpheric acid. Continuous circulation of air is
essential.
Rapid conditioning procedure can follow for light leather (excluding heavy leather, e.g. sole,
belting) may be carried out by placing the leather in an oven for 2 h at 40 0c, followed by
standing overnight in the standard atmosphere: 200c/65%RH.
5.2. Measurement of the flexibility of light leather and their surface

finishes
Scope
This method can only be used for light leathers.
Outline of the method

ADHENA page 35
The specimen is folded as described below and is clamped at each end to maintain it in a
folded position in machine designed to flex the specimen. One clamp is fixed and the other
moves backwards and fore wards causing the fold in the specimen to return a long it. The
specimen is examined periodically to assess what damage has been produced.
Specimens
The specimens are rectangles 70 mm by 45mm and well conditioned.
Apparatus
G 15 H
50 B c 22.50
25
E K F 25
A 55 D fig 1
The upper lamp consists of a pair of flat plates. One has the shape of a trapezium ABCD (fig
1), with sharp corner at D rounded to a radius of 2 mm. it has a ledge EF on which the folded
specimen rests. The other plate has the shape EGHCF. The two plates can be screwed
together, so as to hold one end of the specimens between them. The screw K which draws the
plates together acts as a stop, which prevents the end of the specimens from being thrust too
far towards the back of the clamp. Between the plates near the edge AB is a stop which
prevents them from coming together near AB, and so ensures that they clamp the leather
firmly near F. the upper clamp can be reciprocated by a motor about a horizontal axle J
(fig1). In the position shown in fig 1, the ledge EF is horizontal and the end F is at its height
point. The clamp descends through an angle of 22.50 and returns 100+5 time per minute. The
number of cycles is recorded by a counter.
The lower clamp is fixed and lies in the same vertical plane as the upper clamp. It consists of
a pair of plates which can be screwed together to hold the end of the specimen between them.
ADHENA page 36
If the upper clamp has been turned to the position where the ledge EF is horizontal (fig1), the
upper edges of the plates of the lower clamp are 25mm below the ledge EF.
Insertion of the specimen in the clamps
• Term the motor until the ledge EF is horizontal.
• Fold the spacemen so that the two longer sides are brought together, turning inwards
that surface of the leather which is to be observed during the test. Clamp the folded
specimen in the upper clamp with one end of the specimen against the stop and the
folded edge against the ledge.
Test procedures
1. Clamp the specimens in the machine in the manner described above and switch on the
motor. After 100, 1000, 10,000 cycles, switch off the motor and example the leather
finish to see whether it has been damage. Record any damage observed its nature and
the number of cycles at which it was observed.
2. After 2, 4, 6, 8, 12, 16, 24 hours flexing, examine the leather itself to see whether it has
been damaged. Record any damage observed its nature and the number of cycles at
which it was observed.
Damage to finish may be of the following (and other kinds:
• Change of shade (graying) of the finish film without other damage.
• Crazing of the finish with smaller or greater surface cracks.
• Loss of adhesion of the finish to the leather with slight or considerable changes of
color in the folded area.
• Loss of adhesion of one finish layer to another, with slight or considerable changes of
color.
• Powdering or flaking off of finish, with slight or considerable changes of color.
Damage to the leather may be the following kinds (among others)

ADHENA page 37
 Development of coarse grain folds
 Loss of an embossed grain pattern.
 Cracking of the grain layer
 Continuation of the breakdown of fibers to such an extent that a hole develops through
the entire thickness of the leather
5.3. Measurement of tearing load (tear strength )
a. Double edge tear
Scope
This method is intended for use with any type of leather.
Preparation of specimens
The specimen is rectangle 50mm and 25mm wide in which a slot, having the shape and
dimensions shows in fig 1, has been cut, preferably by use of a pres knife which cuts out the
specimen and slot in one operation. Cut the specimens by pressing the press knife through
from the grain to the flesh side.
25 5 A B
R=5
15 20 15

ADHENA page 38
Fig 1 specimen (dimension in millimeter)
Apparatus
Use a tensile strength machine having a uniform speed of separation of the jaws of 100+
20mm per minute, and such that readings of lad fall in that part of the scale which has been
shown by calibration to be correct within 1 %
Attach to the jaws of the machine a pair of specimen holders of the type, each consists of a
strip of steel 10mm wide and 2mm thick, bent through a right angle at one end and welded to
a bar which makes the strip rigid, and which fits one pair of jaws of the tensile strength
machine or replaces them.
Procedure
1. Condition the specimen and measure the thickness.
2. Adjust the machine so that the turned up ends of the specimen holders are in contacts
with one another. Slip the specimen over the turned up ends, so that they protrude
through the slot with the widths of the turned up ends parallel to the straight edges of
the slot. Press the specimen down firmly on to the holders.
3. Run the machine until the specimens torn apart and record the highest lad reached
during tearing as the tearing load.
4. Report the tear load in kgf and the thickness in millimeter.
b. Single edge tear
Scope
To determine the resistance of all types of leather using single edge tear
Sampling

ADHENA page 39
The specimen is rectangle 70mm and 40mm wide in which a slot, having the shape and
dimensions shows in fig 2, has been cut, preferably by use of a pres knife which cuts out the
specimen and slot in one operation. Cut the specimens by pressing the press knife through
from the grain to the flesh side.
70mm
50mm
20mm
40mm
Fig. 2
Procedure
1. Determine the average thickness
2. Set the separation rate of the jaws of the tensile testing machine to 100 + 20mm/min
and the distance of the jaws to 50+ 2 mm.
3. Clamp the ends of the test piece in the jaws for a length of 20mm, ensuring that the
slot is aligned to the traction axis.
4. Start the test and record the load- extension plot
5. Divided the plot in 4 equal parts from the first peak to the last one.
6. In the second and third sections record the load value of the two higher and two lower
peaks.
7. Determine the single edge tear load making the arithmetic mean of the tested sample.

ADHENA page 40
5.4. Measurement of tensile strength
Scope
These tests are intended to used will all kinds of leather.
Preparation of specimens
Fig 1 shows the shape and dimensions of the internal surfaces of the press knife which must
be used to cut the specimen. When specimens are used for tensile strength measurement the
leather must be conditioned before the specimens are cut.
30 R=5
25 A E C 10
B 50mm D
110
Machine to be used
• Use a tensile strength machine having a uniform speed of separation of the jaws of
100 + 20mm/minute.
• The jaw shall measure at least 40 mm in the direction of the applied load. They shall
be designed to apply, by pneumatic or mechanical means, a clamping force which
remains constants as the end pieces of the specimen compress and whose center of
action shall lie as close to the center of the clamped end pieces as possible and in any
case never outside it. The texture and design of the inside faces of the jaws should be
such that at the maximum load attained in the test the specimen should not slip at
either jaw by an amount exceeding 1% of the original jaw separation.

ADHENA page 41
Procedures
A. Tensile strength
1. Measure the width each specimen to the nearest tenth of a mm at the positions on the
grain and at three positions on the flesh side: in each group of three , make one
measurement at the mid-point E of the waist of the specimens (fig 1) and the other
two at position approximately midway between E and linen AB,CD.
2. Measure the thickness of the specimen and make three measurements at appoint
equally spaced, between AB and CD. Take the mean of the three thickness
measurements as the thickness of the specimen.
3. Calculate the area of the cross section of each specimen by multiplying its width by
its thickness.
4. Set the jaws of the tensile machine 50mm apart. Clamp the specimen in the jaws so
that the edge of the jaws lies along the lines AB, CD. When it is clamped the grain
surface of the specimen shal lies in one plane
5. Run the machine until the specimen breaks and take the highest load reached as the
breaking load.
6. Calculate the tensile strength by dividing the breaking load by the area cross section
of the specimen. Express the results in Mpa.
Tensile strength Tn = F/w*t [N/mm2]
B. Percentage elongation caused by a specific load.

ADHENA page 42
1. Clamp the specimen between the jaws of the machine and measure the distance
between the jaws to the nearest half mm and take this distance as the initial length of
the specimen for the purpose of the test.
2. Start the machine. Unless the machine automatically draws a load extension graph
with the necessary accuracy, follow the distance between the pairs of the load
increases with the aid of dividers.
3. Note the distance between the pair of the jaws at the instant when the load first
reaches the specified value. Take this as the length of the specimen at this load.
4. Calculate the elongation at the specified load by taking the difference between the
initial length and the length at the specified load. Express this difference as the
percentage of the initial length (L1).
Percentage elongation E1 = L1-L0 [%]
L0
c. Percentage of elongation at break
1. Take the same principle with percentage of elongation.
2. Note the distance between the pairs of jaws at the instant when rupture of the
specimen occurs. Take this as the length of the specimen at break.
3. Calculate the elongation at the break by taking the difference between the initial
length and the length at break. Express this difference as a percentage of the initial
length.
Eb = L1-L0 [%]
L0

ADHENA page 43
5.5. Test for colo0r fastness
Color fastness to TO – AND FOR RUBBING.
Scope
To determining the behavior of the surface of a specimen to rubbing.
Condition of test pieces.
For tests with wet test pieces:
• Immerse the test piece in a vessel containing distilled water.
• Dispose the vessel in the desiccators and produce a 5kpa.Vacuum for 2 minutes.
• Restore the atmospheric pressure and repeat the procedure twice again.
• Dry the test pieces using filter paper.
• Test pieces must not be immersed more than 1 hour.
Procedure
1. Cut a rectangular test piece with length not less than 120mm and width not less than
20mm.
2. Dispose the test piece in the holders.
3. Put the test piece in traction corresponding to a 10% elongation.
4. Dispose the 1 k.g weight on the piston.
5. Set the number of cycles and star the test.
6. After reconditioning the wet component, assess the change in color of leather

ADHENA page 44
CHAPTER SIX
STATISTICAL QUALITY CONTROL
Statistica1 quality control (SQC) is the term used to describe the set of statistical
tools used by quality professionals. Statistical quality control can be divided into three
broad categories:
1. Descriptive statistics are used to describe quality characteristics and relationships.
Included are statistics such as the mean, standard deviation, the range,
and a measure of the distribution of data.
2. Statistical process control (SPC) involves inspecting a random sample of the output from
a process and deciding whether the process is producing products with characteristics that fall
within a predetermined range. SPC answers the question of whether the process is
functioning properly or not.
3. Acceptance sampling is the process of randomly inspecting a sample of goods and

deciding whether to accept the entire lot based on the results. Acceptance sampling
determines whether a batch of goods should be accepted or rejected.
The tools in each of these categories provide different types of information for use in
analyzing quality.
Descriptive statistics are used to describe certain quality characteristics,such as the central
tendency and variability of observed data. Although descriptions of certain characteristics are
helpful, they are not enough to help us evaluate whether there is a problem with quality.
Acceptance sampling can help us do this.
Acceptancesampling helps us decide whether desirable quality has been achieved for a batch
ofproducts, and whether to accept or reject the items produced. Although this information
is helpful in making the quality acceptance decision after the product has been produced,
it does not help us identify and catch a quality problem during the production process. For
this we need tools in the statistical process control (SPC) category.

ADHENA page 45
All three of these statistical quality control categories are helpful in measuring and evaluating
the quality of products or services. However, statistical process control (SPC) tools are used
most frequently because they identify quality problems during the production process. For
this reason, we will devote most of the chapter to this category of tools. The quality control
tools we will be learning about do not only measure the value of a quality characteristic. They
also help us identify a change or variation in some quality characteristic of the product or
process. We will first see what types of variation we can observe when measuring quality.
Then we will be able to identify specific tools used for measuring this variation.
Variation in the production process leads to quality defects and lack of product consistency.
The Intel Corporation, the world’s largest and most profitable manufacturer of
microprocessors, understands this. Therefore, Intel has implemented a program it calls “copy-
exactly” at all its manufacturing facilities. The idea is that regardless of whether the chips are
made in Arizona, New Mexico, Ireland, or any of its other plants, they are made in exactly
the same way. This means using the same equipment, the same exact materials, and workers
performing the same tasks in the exact same order.
sources of variation: common and assignable causes
If you look at bottles of a soft drink in a grocery store, you will notice that no two bottles are
filled to exactly the same level. Some are filled slightly higher and some slightly lower.
These types of differences are completely normal. No two products are exactly alike because
of slight differences in materials, workers, machines, tools, and other factors. These are called
common, or random, causes of variation. Common causes of variation are based on
random causes that we cannot identify. These types of variation are unavoidable and are due
to slight differences in processing.
The second type of variation that can be observed involves variations where the causes can be
precisely identified and eliminated. These are called assignable causes of variation.
Examples of this type of variation are poor quality in raw materials, an employee who needs
more training, or a machine in need of repair. The machine may need to be readjusted. This
would be an assignable cause of variation. We can assign the variation to a particular cause
(machine needs to be readjusted) and we can correct the problem (readjust the machine).

ADHENA page 46
1. Descriptive statistics
Descriptive statistics can be helpful in describing certain characteristics of a product and a
process. The most important descriptive statistics are measures of central tendency such as
the mean, measures of variability such as the standard deviation and range, and measures of
the distribution of data. We first review these descriptive statistics and then see how we can
measure their changes.
A. The Mean
In the mass of leather’s box, the average mass of the box is 190 K.g. The arithmetic average,
or the mean, is a statistic that measuresthe central tendency of a set of data. Knowing the
central point of a set of data is highlyimportant. Just think how important that number is
when you receive test scores!To compute the mean we simply sum all the observations and
divide by the totalnumber of observations. The equation for computing the mean is
where x _ (x bar)the mean

xi _ observation i, i _ 1, . . . , n
n _ number of observations
B. The Range and Standard Deviation

In the leather box, we can state that the amount of natural variation in the box is between 100
& 200 K.g.This information provides us withthe amount of variability of the data. It tells us
how spread out the data is around themean. There are two measures that can be used to
determine the amount of variationin the data. The first measure is the range, which is the
difference between the largestand smallest observations. In our example, the range for natural
variation is 180K.g.
Another measure of variation is the standard deviation. The equation for computing

ADHENA page 47
the standard deviation is
n-1
where _ standard deviation of a sample

X- (x bar)_ the mean
xi _ observation i, i _ 1, . . . , n
n _ the number of observations in the sample
Small values of the range and standard deviation mean that the observations are closely
clustered around the mean. Large values of the range and standard deviation mean that the
observations are spread out around the mean.
The given below figure illustrates the differences between a small and a large standard
deviation for our leather box. You can see that the figure shows two distributions, both with a
mean of19K.g. However, in the first distribution the standard deviation is large and the data
are spread out far around the mean. In the second distribution the standard deviation is small
and the data are clustered close to the mean.
Small standard deviation

ADHENA page 48
Large standard deviation
100 120 140 160 180 200 220 240 260 280 K.G
Mean
Symmetric distribution
Skewed distribution
100 120 140 160 180 200 220 240 260 280 K.G
Example; the production of ELICO leather industries is given below and also the production
item is men’s leather jacket.
Week 1_ 35, 35, 30, 30, 35, 25, 30
Week 2_40, 35, 40, 35, 30, 30, 30
Calculate the mean, the range and standard deviation?
A. mean = x1 + x2 + x3.....+xn

ADHENA page 49
=35+35+30+30+35+25+30+40+35+40+35+30+30+30
14
=32.857 33
B. range = maximum -minimum
= 40-25
=15
C. standard deviation = sum of (individual-mean) 2
n-1
(35-33)2 + (35-33)2 + (30-33)2 + (30-33)2 + (35-33)2 + (25-33)2 + (30-33)2 + (40-33)2 + (35-

33)2 + (40-33)2 + (35-33)2 + (40-33)2 + (35-33)2 +(30-33)2 + (30-33)2 + (30-33)2
14-1
= 4+4+9+9+4+64+9+49+4+49+4+9+9+9
13
= 236/13
= 18.153
=4.2654
C. Distribution of Data
A third descriptive statistic used to measure quality characteristics is the shape of the
distribution of the observed data. When a distribution is symmetric, there are the sam
number of observations below and above the mean. This is what we commonly find when
only normal variation is present in the data. When a disproportionate number of observations
are either above or below the mean, we say that the data has a skewed distribution. The above
Figure shows symmetric and skewed distributions for the bottling operation.
2. Statistical process control methods

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Statistical process control methods extend the use of descriptive statistics to monitor the
quality of the product and process. As we have learned so far, there are common and
assignable causes of variation in the production of every product. Using statistical process
control we want to determine the amount of variation that is common or normal.
Then we monitor the production process to make sure production stays within this normal
range. That is, we want to make sure the process is in a state of control. The most commonly
used tool for monitoring the production process is a control chart. Different types of control
charts are used to monitor different aspects of the production Process.
Types of Control Charts

Control charts are one of the most commonly used tools in statistical process control. They
can be used to measure any characteristic of a product, such as the number of leathers in a
box, or the volume of bottled water. The different characteristics that can be measured by
control charts can be divided into two groups: variables and attributes. A control chart for
variables is used to monitor characteristics that can be measured and have a continuum of
values, such as height,weight, or volume.
1. control charts for attributes

A control chart for attributes, on the other hand, is used to monitor characteristics that have
discrete values and can be counted. Often they can be evaluated with a simple yes or no
decision. Examples include color, taste, or smell. The monitoring of attributes usually takes
less time than that of variables because a variable needs to be measured (e.g., the bottle of
soft drink contains 15.9 ounces of liquid). An attribute requires only a single decision, such as
yes or no, good or bad, acceptable or unacceptable (e.g., the apple is good or rotten, the meat
is good or stale, the shoes have a defect or do not have a defect, the lightbulb works or it does
not work) or counting the number of defects.
2. control charts for variables

Control charts for variables monitor characteristics that can be measured and have a
continuous scale, such as height, weight, volume, or width. When an item is inspected,

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the variable being monitored is measured and recorded. For example, if we were producing
candles, height might be an important variable.We could take samples of candles and
measure their heights. Two of the most commonly used control charts for variables monitor
both the central tendency of the data (the mean) and the variability of the data (either the
standard deviation or the range). Note that each chart monitors a different type of
information. When observed values go outside the control limits, the process is assumed not
to be in control. Production is stopped, and employees attempt to identify the cause of the
problem and correct it.
3. Acceptance sampling
Acceptance sampling, the third branch of statistical quality control, refers to theprocess of
randomly inspecting a certain number of items from a lot or batch in orderto decide whether
to accept or reject the entire batch. What makes acceptancesampling different from statistical
process control is that acceptance sampling is performedeither before or after the process,
rather than during the process.
Acceptancesampling before the process involves sampling materials received from a
supplier,such as randomly inspecting crates of fruit that will be used in a restaurant, boxes
ofglass dishes that will be sold in a department store, or metal castings that will beused in a
machine shop.
Sampling after the process involves sampling finished items that are to be shipped either to a
customer or to a distribution center. Examples includerandomly testing a certain number of
finished leather from a batch to make such that meet the requirement free from chromium
and randomly inspecting the accessories to make shore they are not defective.
You may be wondering why we would only inspect some items in the lot and not the entire
lot. Acceptance sampling is used when inspecting every item is not physically possible or
would be overly expensive, or when inspecting a large number of items would lead to errors
due to worker fatigue. This last concern is especially important when a large number of items
are processed in a short period of time. Another example of when acceptance sampling would
be used is in destructive testing, such as testing eggs for salmonella or vehicles for crash
testing. Obviously, in these cases it would not be helpful to test every item! However, 100

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percent inspection does make sense if the cost of inspecting an item is less than the cost of
passing on a defective item.
As you will see in this section, the goal of acceptance sampling is to determine the criteria for
acceptance or rejection based on the size of the lot, the size of the sample, and the level of
confidence we wish to attain. Acceptance sampling can be used for both attribute and
variable measures, though it is most commonly used for attributes.

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CHAPTER SEVEN
QUALITY ASSURANCE AND ISO QUALITY

MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
Introduction
What is quality assurance?
Quality assurance is the process of verifying or determines whether products or services
meet or exceeds customer expectation.
Quality assurance is a process driven approaches with specific step to help define and attain
goals. This process considers design, development, production, and service.
Quality assurance process

Step in quality assurance process
1. Define the objective
First step while understanding quality assurance of any project is to define its requirement.
Example, if the quality planning process has to be evolved for launching a new product or
service in market, then the first step in quality planning should be to understand and
documented the need of this project and its ultimate goal. At this stage it is necessary to
document the quality goal. These goals should be set according to the quality standards,
customer requirement, with reference to organizations own benchmark performance, and
competition performance.
2. Understanding customer needs

All needs should be fully explained and documented so that it can be accessed by all the
involved personnel whenever required, understand both internal and external customers.
3. Design the product

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Product should be designed keeping in view the quality goals and needs of customer define in
step1 & 2 respectively. The cost benefits analysis also has to be done in order to ensure that
the product will be manufactured at low cost, with high quality in order to be successful in
the market.
4. Product pilot testing

Once the product design is ready, next the product is tested. The pilot batch of the product is
manufactured. The product is tested for various attribute in accordance with the standards,
customer requirement and regulatory requirements. This is to ensure that the product meets
the set goals. Once everything is found satisfactory, the product is approved.
5. Process development
The activities for manufacturing are listed. The work floe plan is developed. The teams are
formed and given specific responsibilities. The time for each and every task are specified.
6. Start manufacturing
Tools like process failure mode and effects analysis are used to identify the likely models of
failure of the process and effect of those failures on the product performance. Actions are
initiated for high risk items. Audits are planned to periodically measure the performance and
give feedback to the manufacturing and design department
What is quality management system?

An organisation will benefit from establishing an effective quality management system
(QMS). The cornerstone of a quality organisation is the concept of the customer and supplier
working together for their mutual benefit. For this to become effective, the customer-supplier
interfaces must extend into, and outside of, the organisation, beyond the immediate customers
and suppliers.
A QMS can be defined as:
“A set of co-ordinated activities to direct and control an organisation in order to
continually improve the effectiveness and efficiency of its performance.”
These activities interact and are affected by being in the system, so the isolation and study of
each one in detail will not necessarily lead to an understanding of the system as a whole. The

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main thrust of a QMS is in defining the processes, which will result in the production of
quality products and services, rather than in detecting defective products or services after they
have been produced.
The benefits of a QMS

A fully documented QMS will ensure that two important requirements are met:
• The customers’ requirements – confidence in the ability of the organisation to deliver the
desired product and service consistently meeting their needs and expectations.
• The organisation’s requirements – both internally and externally, and at an optimum cost
with efficient use of the available resources – materials, human, technology and information.
These requirements can only be truly met if objective evidence is provided, in the form of
information and data, to support the system activities, from the ultimate supplier to the
ultimate customer.
A QMS enables an organisation to achieve the goals and objectives set out in its policy and
strategy. It provides consistency and satisfaction in terms of methods, materials, equipment,
etc, and interacts with all activities of the organisation, beginning with the identification of
customer requirements and ending with their satisfaction, at every transaction interface.
Management systems are needed in all areas of activity, whether large or small businesses,
manufacturing, service or public sector. A good QMS will:
• Set direction and meet customers’ expectations
• Improve process control
• Reduce wastage
• Lower costs
• Increase market share
• Facilitate training
• Involve staff
• Raise morale
International Organization for Standardization (ISO)

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The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) is the world's leading developer of
international standards. ISO standards specify the requirements for state-of-the-art products,
services, processes, materials and systems, and for good conformity assessment, managerial
and organizational practice.
ISO standards are designed to be implemented worldwide. ISO is a network of the national
standards institutes of 157 countries, on the basis of one member per country, with a Central
Secretariat in Geneva, Switzerland, that coordinates the system. ISO is a non-governmental
organization: Its members are not, as is the case in the United Nations system, delegations of
national governments.
Nevertheless, ISO occupies a special position between the public and private sectors. This is
because, on the one hand, many of its member institutes are part of the governmental
structure of their countries, or are mandated by their government. On the other hand, other
members have their roots uniquely in the private sector, having been set up by national
partnerships of industry associations.
Therefore, the ISO is able to act as a bridging organization in which a consensus can be
reached on solutions that meet both the requirements of business and the broader needs of
society, such as the needs of stakeholder groups like consumers and users.
Implementing ISO 9000 Quality Management System
Implementation of ISO 9000 affects the entire organization right from the start. If
pursued with total dedication, it results in 'cultural transition' to an atmosphere of
continuous improvement.
The process of implementing ISO 9000 depends on:
 The sophistication of your existing quality program,
 The size of your organization, and
 The complexity of your process.
The 14 essential steps, briefly described below, are to be followed through in order to
implement ISO 9000 quality management system successfully.
Step 1: Top management commitment
Step 2: Establish implementation team

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Step 3. Start ISO 9000 awareness programs

Step 4: Provide Training
Step 5. Conduct initial status survey
Step 6: Create a documented implementation plan
Step 7. Develop quality management system documentation
Step 8: Document control
Step 9. Implementation
Step 10. Internal quality audit
Step 11. Management review
Step 12. Pre-assessment audit
Step 13. Certification and registration
Step 14: Continual Improvement
Step 1: Top Management Commitment
The top management (managing director or chief executive) should demonstrate a
commitment and a determination to implement an ISO 9000 quality management system in
the organization. Without top management commitment, no quality initiative can succeed.
Top management must be convinced that registration and certification will enable the
organization to demonstrate to its customers a visible commitment to quality. It should realize
that a quality management system would improve overall business efficiency by elimination
of wasteful duplication in management system.
The top management should provide evidence of its commitment to the development
and implementation of the quality management system and continually improve its
effectiveness by:
• Communicating to the organization the importance of meeting customer as
well as statutory and regulatory requirements,
• Defining the organization's quality policy and make this known to every
employee,
• Ensuring that quality objectives are established at all levels and functions,
• Ensuring the availability of resources required for the development and
implementation of the quality management system,
• Appointing a management representative to coordinate quality management
system activities, and

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• Conducting management review.

The top management should also consider actions such as:
• Leading the organization by example,
• Participating in improvement projects,
• Creating an environment that encourages the involvement of people.
This type of top management commitment may be driven by:
• Direct marketplace pressure: requirements of crucial customers or parent

conglomerates.
• Indirect marketplace pressure: increased quality levels and visibility among
competitors.
• Growth ambitions: desire to exploit market opportunities.
• Personal belief in the value of quality as a goal and quality management systems
as a means of reaching that goal.
The top management should identify the goals to be achieved through the quality
management system. Typical goals may be:
• Be more efficient and profitable
• Produce products and services that consistently meet customers' needs and
expectations
• Achieve customers satisfaction
• Increase market share
• Improve communications and morale in the organization
• Reduce costs and liabilities
• Increase confidence in the production system
Step 2. Establish Implementation Team

ISO 9000 is implemented by people. The first phase of implementation calls for the
commitment of top management - the CEO and perhaps a handful of other key people.
The next step is to establish implementation team and appoint a Management

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Representative (MR) as its coordinator to plan and oversee implementation. Its members
should include representatives of all functions of the organization - Marketing, Design and
development, Planning, Production, Quality control, etc.
In the context of the standard, the MR is the person within the Organization who acts
as interface between organization management and the ISO 9000 registrar. His role is, in fact,
much broader than that.
The MR should also act as the organization’s "quality management system champion," and
must be a person with:
 Total backing from the CEO,
 Genuine and passionate commitment to quality in general and the ISO 9000 quality
management system in particular,
 The dignity - resulting from rank, seniority, or both - to influence managers and
others of all levels and functions,
 Detailed knowledge of quality methods in general and ISO 9000 in particular.
The members of the implementation team should also be trained on ISO 9000 quality
management systems by a professional training organization.
Step 3. Start ISO 9000 Awareness Programs

ISO 9000 awareness programs should be conducted to communicate to the employees the
aim of the ISO 9000 quality management system; the advantage it offers to employees,
customers and the organization; how it will work; and their roles and responsibilities within
the system. Suppliers of materials and components should also participate in these programs.
The awareness program should emphasize the benefits that the organization expects
to realize through its ISO 9000 quality management system. The program should also
stress the higher levels of participation and self-direction that the quality management
system renders to employees. Such a focus will go far to enlist employee support and
commitment.
The programs could be run either by the implementation team or by experts hired to
talk to different levels of employees.
Step 4. Provide Training

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Since the ISO 9000 quality management system affects all the areas and all personnel
in the organization, training programs should be structured for different categories of
employees - senior managers, middle-level managers, supervisors and workers. The
ISO 9000 implementation plan should make provision for this training.
The training should cover the basic concepts of quality management systems and the standard
and their overall impact on the strategic goals of the organization, the changed processes, and
the likely work culture implications of the system. In addition, initial training may also be
necessary on writing quality manuals, procedures and work instruction; auditing principles;
techniques of laboratory management; calibration; testing procedures, etc.
When in-house capacity to carry out such training is not available, it may be necessary
to participate in external training courses run by professional training organizations.
Alternatively, an external training institution could be invited to conduct in-house
training courses.
Step 5. Conduct Initial Status Survey

ISO 9000 does not require duplication of effort or redundant system. The goal of ISO 9000 is
to create a quality management system that conforms to the standard. This does not preclude
incorporating, adapting, and adding onto quality programs already in place. So the next step
in the implementation process is to compare the organization’s existing quality management
system, if there is one -- with the requirements of the standard (ISO 9001:2000).
For this purpose, an organization flow chart showing how information actually flows (not
what should be done) from order placement by the customer to delivery to this customer
should be drawn up. From this over-all flow chart, a flow chart of activities in each
department should be prepared.
With the aid of the flow charts, a record of existing quality management system should
be established. A significant number of written procedures may already be in place.
Unless they are very much out of date, these documents should not be discarded. Rather, they
should be incorporated into the new quality management system. Documents requiring

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modification or elaboration should be identified and listed. This exercise is some times
referred to as " gap analysis''. During these review processes, wide consultation with
executives and representatives of various unions and associations within the organization is
required to enlist their active cooperation.
In the review process, documents should be collected, studied and registered for further use,
possibly after they have been revised. Before developing new quality management system
documentation, you need to consider with which quality requirements or department you
should start. The best is to select an area where processes are fairly well organized, running
effectively and functioning satisfactorily.
The basic approach is to determine and record how a process is currently carried out. We can
do this by identifying the people involved and obtaining information from them during
individual interviews. Unfortunately, it often happens that different people will give different,
contradicting versions of a process. Each one may refer to oral instructions that are not
accurate or clear. This is why the facts are often not described correctly the first time around,
and have to be revised several times.
Once it has been agreed how to describe the current process, this process has to be adapted,
supplemented and implemented according to the requirements of the quality standard (ISO
9001:2000). This requires organizational arrangements, the drawing up of additional
documents and possible removal of existing documentation (e.g. procedures,
inspection/test plans, inspection/test instructions) and records (e.g. inspection/test reports,

inspection/test certificates).
In introducing a quality management system, the emphasis is on the improvement of the

existing processes or the re-organization of processes.
In general, the steps to follow are the following:
 Ascertain and establish the following:
What is the present operation/process? What already exists?
 Analyze the relevant sections of the quality standard - ISO 9001:2000:

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What is actually required?

 If necessary, supplement and change operational arrangements in accordance
with the standard, develop documents and records, and describe operations/processes:
What is the desired operation/process?
How does it What is Determine and

work? required? document the
(ISO operation/proc
9001:2000) ess?
Figure 1: Steps in introducing a quality management system
The above gap analysis can be done internally, if the knowledge level is there. Or a formal
pre-assessment can be obtained from any one of a large number of ISO 9000 consulting,
implementing, and registration firms.
Step 6. Create a Documented Implementation Plan

Once the organization has obtained a clear picture of how its quality management system
compares with the ISO 9001:2000 standard, all non-conformances must be addressed with a
documented implementation plan. Usually, the plan calls for identifying and describing
processes to make the organization’s quality management system fully in compliance with
the standard.
The implementation plan should be thorough and specific, detailing:

 Quality documentation to be developed
 Objective of the system
 Pertinent ISO 9001:2000 section
 Person or team responsible
 Approval required
 Training required
 Resources required
 Estimated completion date
These elements should be organized into a detailed chart, to be reviewed and approved. The
plan should define the responsibilities of different departments and personnel and set target
dates for the completion of activities. Once approved, the Management Representative should
control, review and update the plan as the implementation process proceeds.
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Typical implementation action plan is shown in Figure 2. Use ISO 10005:1995 for
guidance in quality planning.
Month 1 Month 3 Month 5 Month 7 Month 9 Month 11 Month 13
Appoint MR + establish
implementation team
ISO 9000 awareness

campaign
Initial status survey +
planning
Develop Quality manual-

Level A
Write Level B documents
Write Level C
documents
Monitor implementation process
First internal audit
Clear
nonconformities

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Pre-registration
audit
Quality training
Compliance audit
Compliancediscrepan
cies
Registration
Figure 2. Typical action plan
Step 7. Develop Quality Management System Documentation

Documentation is the most common area of non-conformance among organizations wishing
to implement ISO 9000 quality management systems. As one company pointed out: "When
we started our implementation, we found that documentation was inadequate. Even
absent, in some areas. Take calibration. Obviously it's necessary, and obviously we do
it, but it wasn't being documented. Another area was inspection and testing. We inspect
and test practically every item that leaves here, but our documentation was
inadequate".
 Documentation of the quality management system should include:
 Documented statements of a quality policy and quality objectives,
 A quality manual,
 Documented procedures and records required by the standard ISO 9001:2000,and
 Documents needed by the organization to ensure the effective planning, operation
and control of its processes.
Quality documentation is generally prepared in the three levels indicated in the box that
follows. Use ISO 10013:1995 for guidance in quality documentation.

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Level A: Quality manual

 States the scope of the quality management system, including exclusions and details of
their justification; and describes the processes of the quality management system and their
interaction. Generally gives an organization profile; presents the organizational relationships
and responsibilities of persons whose work affects quality and outlines the main procedures.
It may also describe organization's quality policy and quality objectives.
Level B: Quality management system procedures

 Describes the activities of individual departments, how quality is controlled in each
department and the checks that are carried out.
Level C: Quality documents (forms, reports, work instructions, etc.)
 Work instructions describe in detail how specific tasks are performed; include drawing
standards, methods of tests, customer's specifications, etc.
 Presents forms to be used for recording observations, etc.
In small companies, the above levels of documentation could be presented in one

manual; otherwise, separate manuals should be prepared.
A list of the documents to be prepared should be drawn up and the responsibility for
writing the documents should be assigned to the persons concerned in various functional
departments. They should be advised to prepare the drafts within a specific time frame.
Step 8: Document Control

Once the necessary quality management system documentation has been generated, a
documented system must be created to control it. Control is simply a means of managing the
creation, approval, distribution, revision, storage, and disposal of the various types of
documentation. Document control systems should be as simple and as easy to operate as
possible -- sufficient to meet ISO 9001:2000 requirements and that is all.
Document control should include:

♣ Approval for adequacy by authorized person (s) before issue,
♣ Review, updating and re-approval of documents by authorized person (s),

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♣ Identification of changes and of the revision status of documents,

♣ Availability of relevant versions of documents at points of use,
♣ Identification and control of documents of external origin,
♣ Assurance of legibility and identifability of documents, and
♣ Prevention of unintended use of obsolete documents.
The principle of ISO 9000 document control is that employees should have access to the
documentation and records needed to fulfil their responsibilities.
Step 9. Implementation
It is good practice to implement the quality management system being documented as the
documentation is developed, although this may be more effective in larger firms. In smaller
companies, the quality management system is often implemented all at once throughout the
organization. Where phased implementation takes place, the effectiveness of the system in
selected areas can be evaluated.
It would be a good idea initially to evaluate areas where the chances of a positive evaluation
are high, to maintain the confidence of both management and staff in the merits of
implementing the quality management system.
The implementation progress should be monitored to ensure that the quality management
system is effective and conforms to the standard. These activities include internal quality
audit, formal corrective action and management review.
Step 10. Internal Quality Audit

As the system is being installed, its effectiveness should be checked by regular internal
quality audits. Internal quality audits are conducted to verify that the installed quality
management system:
♣ Conform to the planned arrangements, to the requirements of the standard (ISO

9001:2000) and to the quality management system requirements established by your
organization, and

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♣ Is effectively implemented and maintained.
Even after the system stabilizes and starts functioning, internal audits should be
planned and performed as part of an ongoing strategy.
A few staff members should be trained to carry out internal auditing. Use ISO 19011
for guidance in auditing, auditor qualification and programmes.
Step 11. Management Review

When the installed quality management system has been operating for three to six months, an
internal audit and management review should be conducted and corrective actions
implemented. The management reviews are conducted to ensure the continuing suitability,
adequacy and effectiveness of the quality management system. The review should include
assessing opportunities for improvement and the need for changes to the quality management
system, including the quality policy and quality objectives.
The input to management review should include information on:

 Results of audits,
 Customer feed back,
 Process performance and product conformity,
 Status of preventive and corrective actions,
 Follow-up actions from previous management reviews,
 Changes that could affect the quality management system, and
 Recommendations for improvements.
Management reviews should also address the pitfalls to effective implementation, including
lack of CEO commitment, failure to involve everyone in the process, and failure to monitor
progress and enforce deadlines.
Step 12. Pre-assessment Audit

When system deficiencies are no longer visible, it is normally time to apply for certification.
However, before doing so, a pre-assessment audit should be arranged with an independent
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and qualified auditor. Sometimes certification bodies provide this service for a nominal
charge. The pre-assessment audit would provide a degree of confidence for formally going
ahead with an application for certification.
Step 13. Certification and Registration

Once the quality management system has been in operation for a few months and has
stabilized, a formal application for certification could be made to a selected certification
agency. The certification agency first carries out an audit of the documents (referred to as an
"adequacy audit"). If the documents conform to the requirements of the
quality standard, then on-site audit is carried out. If the certification body finds the system to
be working satisfactorily, it awards the organization a certificate, generally for a period of
three years. During this three-year period, it will carry out periodic surveillance audits to
ensure that the system is continuing to operate satisfactorily.
Step 14: Continual Improvement

Certification to ISO 9000 should not be an end. You should continually seek to improve
the effectiveness and suitability of the quality management system through the use of:
• Quality policy
• Quality objectives
• Audit results
• Analysis of data
• Corrective and preventive actions
• Management review
ISO 9004:2000 provides a methodology for continual improvement.

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CHAPTR EIGHT
TOTAL QUALITY MANAGEMENT (TQM)
8.1. Introduction to TQM
What is Total Quality Management?
 Definition: TQM is a management philosophy, a paradigm, a continuous

improvement approach to doing business through a new management model.
 TQM is a comprehensive management system which:

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 Focuses on meeting owners’/customers’ needs, by providing quality services

at a reasonable cost.
 Focuses on continuous improvement.
 Recognizes role of everyone in the organization.
 Views organization as an internal system with a common aim.
 Focuses on the way tasks are accomplished.
 Emphasizes teamwork
There is no single definition to TQM but Pretty Wholesome is from US department of

defense << TQM is both a philosophy and a set of guiding principles that represents the
foundation of a continuously improving organization. TQM integrate fundamental
management techniques, existing improvement effort, and technical tools under a disciplined
approach focused on continuous improvement. >>
8.2. TQM tools
There are different types of TQM tools, among these:
1. Gantt chart
2. Cause and effect diagram
3. Action plan
4. Histogram
5. Control chart check sheet
6. Mission statement
7. Vision statement

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For these materials we are focused on the first three types of TQM tools.
1. Gantt chart
It is graphic method of showing tasks of a project in a sequential order.
When to use it?
 When planning a project whose steps and their sequence are know
 When progress of a project needs to be monitored.
Advantages
 When such a chart is kept in visible place every one is informed of the progress and
everyone is motivated.
 Make clear the dependencies of the various tasks in a project.
2. Cause and effect diagram
This is a tool developed by Ishikawa for the purpose of representing the relationship between
an effect and the potential or possible cause influencing it.
When to uses?
 When we want to find out a solution to a fairly large problem which could have a
number of causes.
 When we want to find the root causes of defects.
Advantages
 It provides a structure and focus for open discussion of a specific quality concern and
challenge.

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 It forces to discover many possible causes for a specific effect, making this visible
and understanding.
 It encourages employees involvement at all levels and promotes better

communication.
Structure of cause and effect
Cause branch
Cause twig cause twiglet
EFFECT
3. Action plan
This is a tool for breaking down objectives into tasks and deciding who will do what and
when.
When to use it?
 When planning initiatives.
 When tasks are outside the normal responsibilities.
 When embarking on a project
Advantage
 It is a way of planning how best to use people to achieve particular objectives.

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 It makes some people know exactly what their responsibilities are.
8.2. Quality gurus
What is a quality guru?
A guru, by definition, is a good person, a wise person and a teacher. A quality guru should be
all of these,plus have a concept and approach to quality within business that has made a
major and lasting impact. Thegurus mentioned in this section have done, and continue to do,
that, in some cases, even after their death.
As already mentioned in the history of quality, these have been quite a few gurus who have
made immense contribution to quality science and have shaped contemporary thinking.
Limited accounts of the major philosophies have been mentioned below:
1. W.Edward Deming
Deming developed Japanese ‘road map” to quality. He emphasized that the key to quality
problem in the management’s hand-85% quality problem are due to the system and only 15%
due to employee. The heart of quality strategy is statically quality control to identify special
cause and common causes of variation.
Deming’s management principle
7-deadly disease for work place
1. Lack of constancy of purpose
2. Emphasis on short-term profits
3. Evaluation of performance merit rating or annual review
4. Mobility of management
5. Management by use of visible figures
6. Excessive medical costs

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7. Excessive cost of liability.
Deming’s 14 point serves as the basis of his quality philosophy, among, the 14 points:
1. Learn the new philosophy, top management and everybody
2. Institute training
3. Teach & institute leadership
4. Drive out fear, create trust, create a climate for innovation
5. Take action to accomplish for transformation
He believed that adoption of, and action on, the fourteen points was a signal that management
intended tostay in business. Deming also encouraged a systematic approach to problem
solving andpromoted thewidely known Plan, Do, Check, Act (PDCA) cycle. The PDCA cycle
is also known as the Deming cycle,although it was developed by a colleague of Deming, Dr
Shewhart.
It is a universal improvement methodology, the idea being to constantly improve, and thereby
reduce thedifference between the requirements of the customers and the performance of the
process.
The cycle is about learning and ongoing improvement, learning what works and what does
Plan what is needed

ACT Do it
PLAN Check that it works
Act to correct any problems or
improve performance
CHECK
DO control for leather garment technology
Quality BY GETACHEW
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The cycle is about learning and ongoing improvement, learning what works and what does
not in asystematic way; and the cycle repeats; after one cycle is complete, another is started.
2. Joseph M.Jurdan
Jordan played a major role in the Japanese quality success story. He primarily introduced the
quality management element and defines quality as “fitness for use of customers”
Jurdan emphasized the necessity of full management commitment to the quality effort, not
only in leadership role but also with hands on involvement.
The central focus of his work is jurdan trilogy. They are
1. Quality planning- a process that identifies the customer their requirement the product
and service feature the customer expect.
2. Quality control- a process in which product is actually examined and evaluated
against the original product and problem detected are correct.
3. Quality improvement- a process in which the sustaining mechanism are put in place
so that quality can be achieved on continuous basis. This include
• Allocating resources
• Assigning people to pursue quality projects.
• Training those involved in pursuing projects.
3. Philip B.Crosby
He developed the “quality management maturity grid” that traces corporate quality awareness
and quality maturation from a level of uncertainty to one certainty.
His approaches to quality based on 4 “absolutes of quality management” they are:
1. Quality is defined as conformance to requirement
2. The system for causing quality is prevention not appraisal
3. The performance standard is zero defects.

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4. The measure of quality is price of non conformance not indexes.
4. Armand V.Feingehaum
His approach is that quality responsibility extends beyond the manufacturing department. He
developed the concept that quality in manufacturing could not be achieved if the products
were poorly designed, inefficiently distributed, incorrectly marked and improperly supported
in the customer’s life.
His development is known as” total quality control”. He talks about “9Ms” of quality. They
are:
1. Markets 6. materials
2. Money 7. Machine and mechanization
3. Management 8. Modern information methods
4. Men 9.meeting products equipment
5. Motivation
5. Kauru Ishikawa
He developed the concept of true substitute quality characteristics. This is product’s view of
product performance. His concept of quality control contains six fundamental principles.
They are:
1. Quality first
2. Consumer orientation

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3. Beeking down the barrier of sectionalism
4. Utilization of satisfaction methods
5. Participatory management
6. Cross-functional management
He also developed the quality circle concept in early 1960”s on the premise that neither the
worker nor the manager knows the correct solution to the problem, but by working together
they will be better able to find a solution.
He has associated with the developed of the following tools
• Cause and effect diagram
• Check sheet
• Histogram
• Stratification and scatter diagram
6. Genichi Taguchi
He developed on engineering approaches to quality. He emphasized producing to target goals

or requirement with minimal performance variation in customer’s environment. He termed
“variation noise”
His objective is to minimize noise through on line and off line quality activities.
Taguchi targets on design for quality by defining three design levels:
1. System design/primary/_ functional design focused on partner technology
2. Parameter design/secondary/_ a means of both reducing cost and improving

performance without removing cause of variation.

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3. Tolerance design/tertiary/_a means of reducing variation by controlling cause, but of

an increase cost.
7. Shigeo Shingo
Shingo says that statically based quality control is not conductive is zero defects. He
proposed the poka-yoka (mistake proofing) system to totally eliminate defects.
The mistake proofing concept is a human or a machine based services of 100 % source
inspection, self checks, when or as they occur and correct them on the current unit of
production as well as system wide.
His zero quality control system comprises the following principles.
1. Use source inspection
2. Always use 100% source inspection
3. Minimize the time required to carry out corrective action
4. Set-up poka-yoka devices.
8.3. Quality costs
Quality cost concept
Development, design, manufactures and selling of product involves cost for the enterprise.
The enterprise must bear some of these costs of there are to be any products manufactured
and if these are to generate income.
Apart from these, the enterprise has costs which can be avoided to a varying degree, or
limited depending on the efficiency with which the activities related to product quality are
carried out. These costs are called quality costs.
What are the benefits of quality costs?
1. It gives an over view about which area of business should be profitable intermesh of
improvement activities.
2. It gives a quantifiable measure for progress made on the road to total quality

ADHENA page 79
To plan and control quality activities, the quality costs should be divided into four categories.
1. Prevention costs
2. Appraisal costs
3. Internal costs
4. External costs.
1. Prevention costs_ are costs for activities which aim to prevent defects from
occurring. These include the following.
• Systems development
• Quality engineering
• Quality training
• Quality circles
• statistical process control
• Supervision of prevention activities
• Quality data gathering, analysis, and reporting
• Quality improvement projects
• Technical support provided to suppliers
• Audits of the effectiveness of the quality system
2. Appraisal costs_ are the costs of inspecting and testing that products, parts and
materials conform to the quality requirement. These costs include:
• Test and inspection of incoming materials
• Test and inspection of in-process goods
• Final product testing and inspection

ADHENA page 80
• Supplies used in testing and inspection
• Supervision of testing and inspection activities
• Depreciation of test equipment
• Maintenance of test equipment
• Plant utilities in the inspection area
• Field testing and appraisal at customer site
3. Internal failure costs_ include the costs of the products, parts and materials which
deviate from the quality requirements if such deviations (defects)are detected
internally, i.e. by manufacture before delivery to the customer. Internal failure costs
include:
• Net cost of scrap
• Net cost of spoilag
• Rework labor and overhead
• Re-inspection of reworked products
• Retesting of reworked products
• Downtime caused by quality problems
• Disposal of defective products
• Analysis of the cause of defects in production
• Re-entering data because of keying errors
• Debugging software errors
4. External failure costs_ are made up of costs for defects which are found after
shipment to the customer. External failure costs include:
• Cost of field servicing and handling complaints

ADHENA page 81
• Warranty repairs and replacements
• Repairs and replacements beyond the warranty period
• Product recalls
• Liability arising from defective products
• Returns and allowances arising from quality problems
• Lost sales arising from a reputation for poor quality.
8.4. Implementation of TQM
Steps in implementing TQM
1 Obtain CEO Commitment
2 Educate Upper-Level Management
3 Create Steering Committee
4 Outline the Vision Statement, Mission Statement, & Guiding Principles
5 Prepare a Flow Diagram of Company Processes
6 Focus on the Owner/Customer (External) & Surveys
7 Consider the Employee as an Internal Owner/customer
8 Provide a Quality Training Program
9 Establish Quality Improvement Teams
10 Implement Process Improvements
11 Use the Tools of TQM
12 Know the Benefits of TQM
1. Obtain CEO Commitment.
2. Educate upper level management.

ADHENA page 82
To educate the upper level management we have to conduct the following:
• Undergo quality training
• Commit to TQM and provide the necessary resources.
• Assist in the development.
• Serve as a model of expected behavior.
• Actively lead the way.
• Drive fear out of the organization
• Provide suitable recognition.
• Drive decision making and problem resolution.
3. Create a steering committee.
Upon completion of upper management’s commitment and training, a steering

committee must be created to guide the company through the process of implementing TQM.
 Steering committee roles are…….
 Review and evaluate customer surveys.
 Determine processes to be improved.
 Appoint task process improvement teams.
 Monitor process improvement.
 Oversee employee recognition for quality improvement.
 Communicate successes and progress.
4. Outline the Vision Statement, Mission Statement, & Guiding Principles
Establishing guiding principles:

ADHENA page 83
Important principles to consider including in the company’s vision statement, mission

statement, and guiding principles are as follows:
 Owner/customer Satisfaction.
 Improved Safety.
 Elimination of errors and defects.
 Doing things right, the first time.
 Reputation as the best in the field.
 Continuous Improvement.
 Employee Empowerment
5. Prepare a Flow Diagram of Company Processes:
A mechanical engineering firm created the TQM flow diagram illustrated in the figure
below:
6. Focus on the Owner/Customer (External) & Surveys
Focusing on a customer’s concerns

ADHENA page 84
Several areas to survey, and to take care to provide or honor, are listed here:
 Safe operating procedures
 Accident experience
 Attitude
 Professional competence
 Technical competence of the work force
 Overall responsiveness to owner/customer requests
 Planning
 Condition of equipment
 Timeliness
Successful TQM companies have asked their owner/customers the following questions:
 How well do we deliver what we promise?
 How often do we do things right the first time?
 How often do we do things right on time?
 How quickly do we respond to your request?
 How accessible are we when you need to contact us?
 How helpful and polite are we?
 How well do we speak your language?
 How well do we listen to you?
 How hard do you think we work at keeping you a satisfied owner/customer?
 How much confidence do you have in our products or services? Etc…

ADHENA page 85
7. Consider the Employee as an Internal Owner/Customer
In order to conduct an analysis of the internal processes following steps should be

applied:
• List several of your internal owners/customers within your company
• Choose one of these owners/customers to focus on for the application of this

technique
• Determine the Outputs (products, services, information) that must be provided to this
internal owner/customer
• Determine the work Processes your company uses to produce these Outputs
• Learn how your customer’s expectations are met and how satisfaction is measured
8. Provide a Quality Training Program
Which employees are trained first?
The successful TQM Company provides training to employees in the order illustrated in
the list below:
• Upper Management
• Remaining Management
• In-House Trainers & Facilitators
• Front-Line Supervisors
• Non-Supervisory Employees
• Team Training
• Training of Subcontractors & Suppliers
9. Establish quality improvement teams
A quality improvement teams focuses on following areas for improvement:

ADHENA page 86
 Increased Employee Value
 Informed Employees
 Technical Training
 Quality Training
 Employee Suggestions
 Employee Participation
 Higher Quality of Artistry
 Personal Development
 The quality improvement team tasks are:
♣ Identify the customers of the process
♣ Determine customer expectations
♣ Flowchart the process
♣ Identify all of the inputs and interfaces
♣ Identify the output(s)
♣ Systematically review the procedures currently being used in the process
♣ Collect and analyze available quantitative data
♣ Determine the need for additional data
♣ Identify the problem(s)
♣ Determine the root cause of the problem
♣ Determine potential solutions
♣ Select a trial solution

ADHENA page 87
♣ Present recommendations to the steering committee
♣ Implement the solution on a pilot-project basis
♣ Analyze the data to discern if there has been improvement
10. Implement Process Improvements:
The structure approach to process improvement is as follows:
• Problem is brought to the attention of the steering committee
• Steering committee forms a team to examine the process and make

necessary recommendations for improvement
• Team meets, reviews its mission, and determines how often it will meet
• Training is initiated for team members
• Team meets weekly for an hour or two to analyze the problem and develop
a solution
• Solution is initiated on a pilot basis
• Results of pilot study are examined
• Solution is implemented company-wide
Administrative Project Logistical Construction
Management and Engineering

ADHENA page 88
Payroll Subcontracts Storage Layout
Invoices Partial payment requests Warehousing Rough grading
Personnel actions Progress review meetings Delivery Forming
Investments Estimating Maintenance Placing concrete
Insurance Scheduling Placing reinforcing
Marketing Interfacing with architect/engineer Erecting precast panels
Training (safety, Shop drawing review Framing drywall

quality, technical
Survey and layout Testing Pulling electrical cable
Hanging ductwork
11. Use of Tools:
Seven classical tools of quality and process improvement, plus one, are presented below
Flowchart: Portrays all the steps in a process. Helps understand the process.
Cause and Effect Diagram: Portrays possible causes of a process problem. Helps determine
root cause
Control Chart: Shows if a process has too much variation.
Histogram: Portrays the frequency of occurrence.
Check Sheet: Tabulates frequency of occurrence.
Pareto Diagram : Visually portrays problems and causes in order of severity or frequency.
Helps determine which problem or cause to tackle first.
Scatter Diagram: Helps determine if two variables are related.

ADHENA page 89
Run Chart : Shows variation and trends with time. Provides baseline data, and helps to
determine if a process is improving or not.
Examples of the seven classical tools used for continuous improvement
Control charts are time plots that also indicate the range of variation built into the
system. They are used to monitor a process to see whether it is in statistical control.
Control charts
References

ADHENA page 90
1. Teaching material for garment technology.
2. Teaching material for apparel industry.
3. Training course for UNIDO (mechanical, physical, and color fastness test).
4. A practical approaches to quality control
5. Statistical process control and quality improvement.
6. www.businessballs.com
7. www.qsae.org
8. www.wiley.com
Official method of analysis

ADHENA page 91

Quality Control Manual For Leather Garment Technology

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LEATHER & LEATHER PRODUCT TECHNOLOGY INSTITUTE 2002 E.

LEATHER GARMENT AND GOODS MANUFACTURING

QUALITY CONTROL FOR LEATHER GARMENT

Thursday, March 25, 2010

Quality control for leather garment technology BY GETACHEW

ADISS ABEBA_ ETHIOPIA

Chapter1Introduction to quality control...................................................................................................1

Chapter2 Quality control definition.........................................................................................................3

2.1. Basic concept of quality.......................................................................................................3

2.2. Dimension (parameter) of quality........................................................................................5

2.3. Basic concepts of quality control.........................................................................................7

2.3.1 The meaning of control.........................................................................................7

2.3.2. Stages of quality control......................................................................................7

2.4. Why quality is important.....................................................................................................8

Chapter 3 Quality control.........................................................................................................................9

3.1. Quality determination..........................................................................................................9

3.2. Main aspects to be considered in quality control.................................................................9

3.3. What to control..................................................................................................................10

3.4. When to control..................................................................................................................11

3.5. Approaches to apply quality control..................................................................................11

3.6. Who shall be involved in quality control? ........................................................................11

Chapter 4 Process inspection.................................................................................................................13

4.1. Definition of inspection.....................................................................................................13

4.2. Objectives of inspection.....................................................................................................14

4.3. function of inspection........................................................................................................14

4.3.1. Raw material inspection.....................................................................................15

4.3.2. in-process inspection..........................................................................................19

4.3.3. Final inspection..................................................................................................24

4.4.4. purchased parts inspection.................................................................................25

Quality control for leather garment technology BY GETACHEW

4.4.5. Tools inspection.................................................................................................25

4.4. Systems of inspection........................................................................................................25

4.4.1. Floor inspection.................................................................................................25

4.4.2. Central inspection..............................................................................................26

4.4.3. combined inspection..........................................................................................26

4.5. Types of inspection............................................................................................................26

4.5.1. 100% inspection.................................................................................................27

4.5.2. Sample inspection..............................................................................................27

4.5.3. First off inspection/initial inspection.................................................................28

4.5.4. Working inspection............................................................................................29

4.5.5. Functional inspection/last-off/...........................................................................29

4.5.6. Final test and inspection....................................................................................29

Chapter 5 Physical testing for leather garment......................................................................................31

5.2. Measurement of flexibility.................................................................................................32

5.3. Measurement of tear strength.............................................................................................34

5.4. Measurement of tensile strength........................................................................................37

5.5. Measurement of color

Chapter 6 Statistical quality control.......................................................................................................41

Chapter 7 Quality assurance and ISO quality management

Chapter 8 Total quality management (TQM)........................................................................................66

8.1. Introduction to TQM..........................................................................................................66

8.2. TQM tools..........................................................................................................................67

8.3. Quality gurus......................................................................................................................69

8.5. Implementation of TQM....................................................................................................77

Quality control for leather garment technology BY GETACHEW

INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY CONTROL

 Higher demands for quality from customers

 Demand for better profitability. Often however there is a lack of knowledge of

Quality control for leather garment technology BY GETACHEW

 Marketing and after-sale service

Quality control for leather garment technology BY GETACHEW

QUALITY CONTROL DEFINITION

2.1. Basic concept of Quality