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A REPORT ON TRAINING UNDERGONE IN CENTRAL SILK TECHNOLOGICAL RESEARCH INSTITUTE

Submitted by

YUVARAJ M (2009309040) BACHELOR OF TECHNOLOGY In TEXTILE

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY ANNA UNIVERSITY CHENNAI 600025 MAY 2012

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ABSTRACT

We underwent training at Central Silk Technological Research Institute, Bangalore for a period of 11 days. We were able to learn the design making in inch graph sheet, loom preparation for produce design on fabric by dobby and jacquard attachments and their production calculations. In this training we have learnt the design produce on the fabric by practically. Also known about the silk production, silk types, silk fabric types, silk spinning process and preparation of warp threads and weft threads. We have learnt basic concepts about Jala technology and CAD. Also studied about dobby elements, jacquard elements and loom elements. We have presented all the informations which are done in the CSTRI.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We express our sincere thanks to Dr.N.Gobi , Department of textile technology, Anna University for his valuable guidance, constant encouragement and timely suggestions rendered for the successful completion of the Inplant training report. We are very grateful to Dr.Arindam Basu, Director, Central Silk Technological Research Institute, Bangalore, for providing necessary facility needed to do this inplant training. We wish to thank Mr.Sirajuddin Surkhi, Technical Assistant, Central Silk Technological Research Institute , Bangalore, for his guidance and support to do this training. We wish to thank Dr. N. Selvakumar, Professor and Head, Department of Textile Technology, Anna University for his support during the period of inplant training.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER NO.

TITLE

PAGE NO.

ABSTRACT

ii

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

iii

LIST OF FIGURES

ix

INTRODUCTION

01

SILK

02

02 2.1 VARAITIES OF SILK 2.2 CULTIVATION OF SILK FILAMENT

03

2.3 TYPES OF SILK FABRIC

05

ELEMENTS OF DOBBY DESIGNING

07

3.1 PATTERN CYLINDER

07

3.2 PATTERN PEGS

07

3.3 PATTERN LAGS

08

3.4 LATTICE

08

ELEMENTS OF JACQUARD DESIGNING

09

4.1 CARDS

09

4.2

JACQUARD HARNESS

09

DESIGN PREPARATION

10

5.1 STEPS FOLLOWED IN PREPARATION OF

11

DESIGN

DESIGN ON DOBBY

11

6.1 PROCESS FLOW CHART

11

6.2 DESIGN PREPARATION

12

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6.3 PEGGING OF LAGS

12

6.4 LATTICE PREPARATION

12

6.5 LOOM PREPARATION

13

6.5.1

Lattice mounting on cylinder

13

6.5.2

Harness preparation

13

6.5.3

Combing

13

6.5.4

Extra warp preparation

13

6.5.5

Drawing

13

6.5.6

Denting

14

6.6 WEAVING

14

DESIGN ON JACQUARD

15

7.1 TYPES OF JACQUARD

15

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7.2 PROCESS FLOW CHART

16

7.3 DESIGN PREPARATION

17

7.4 CARDS CUTTING

17

7.5 CARDS PUNCHING

17

7.6 LACING

17

7.7 LOOM PREPARATION

17

7.7.1

Mounting the cards

17

7.7.2

Harness preparation

18

7.7.3

Combing

18

7.7.4

Extra warp preparation

18

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7.7.5

Drawing

18

7.7.6

Denting

19

7.8 WEAVING

19

7.9 ELECTRONIC JACQUARD

19

JALA TECHNOLOGY

20

8.1 JALA TECHNOLOGY

20

CONCLUSION

21

REFERENCE

22

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LIST OF FIGURES

FIGURE NO 6.1 7.2

TITLE PROCESS FLOW CHART OF DESIGN ON DOBBY PROCESS FLOW CHART OF DESIGN ON JACQUARD

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CHAPTER 1 INTRODUTION

Design is essential for aesthetic properties; it is produce on the fabric in the loom by using extra attachments like dobby, jacquard and Jala technology. By using those attachments we can produce extra warp and extra weft designs. In CSTRI we produce design on silk fabric by using hand looms which are having the dobby, jacquard and Jala technology attachments. In this institute they were using the mulberry silk to manufacture the fabric. In CSTRI many process sections is available for research. Some of the sections are cocoon dryers, cocoon storage, cocoon cooking, reeling, yarn preparation, warping, weaving, wet processing, chemical testing, etc., The institute having experienced operators in each section. CSTRI does manufacture products for customer and it will decide the product for industry. It acts for relate to silk fabrics manufacturing industries only.

CHAPTER 2 SILK
Silk is protein fiber. It has some varieties, each of them having unique properties. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons.

2.1 VARIETIES OF SILK

There are two major types. 1. Mulberry 2. Non-mulberry: Eri, Tasar, Muga 2.1.1 MULBERRY SILK Mulberry silk is shiny, smooth and has a fluidity that makes it perfect for evening wear. At Brass Tacks we use Mulberry Silk for graceful, elegant styles that look best with the drape and sheen of silk. 2.1.2 ERI SILK Eri silk cocoons are made up of uneven fibres and it cannot be reeled. Often, the moths are allowed to emerge before the cocoons are spun into yarn. Eri silk is thick with a dull sheen and it has a soft, cotton-like feel. Eri silk has more strength than some other silks.

2.1.3 TASAR SILK Tasar silk is a lot more textured than Mulberry silk. It has an elegant, dull gold sheen and it is a lot more breathable than Mulberry silk making it more suitable for warmer climates. It is also spelled as Tasar, or Tussah. The word Tussar comes from the Sanskrittasara, which means shuttle. 2.1.4 MUGA SILK This golden yellow colour silk is prerogative of India and the pride of Assam state. It is obtained from semi-domesticated multivoltine silkworm, Antheraea assamensis. These silkworms feed on the aromatic leaves of Som and Soalu plants and are reared on trees similar to that of tasar. Muga culture is specific to the state of Assam and an integral part of the tradition and culture of that state. The muga silk, an high value product is used in products like sarees, mekhalas, chaddars, etc.

2.2 SILK WORM CULTIVATION -SERICULTURE

There are three types of cultivation, they are given below: 1. Univoltine: Silkworms which are cultivated once in a year. 2. Bivoltine: Silkworms which are cultivated twice a year. 3. Multiviltine: Silkworms which are cultivated many times in a year.

2.2.1 STAGES IN PRODUCTION OF SILK FILAMENT The stages of production are as follows: 1. The silk moth lays eggs. 2. The eggs hatch, and the larvae feed on the mulberry leaves. 3. When the silkworms are about 10,000 times heavier than when they hatched, they are now ready to spin a silk cocoon. 4. The silk is produced in two glands in the silkworm's head and then forced out in liquid form through openings called spinnerets. 5. The silk solidifies when it comes in contact with the air. 6. The silkworm spins approximately 1 mile of filament and completely encloses itself in a cocoon in about two or three days but due to quality restrictions, the amount of usable silk in each cocoon is small. As a result, 5500 silkworms are required to produce 1 kg of silk. 7. The silk is obtained from the undamaged cocoons by brushing the cocoon to find the outside end of the filament. 8. The silk filaments are then wound on a reel. One cocoon contains approximately 1,000 yards of silk filament. The silk at this stage is known as raw silk. One thread consists of up to 48 individual silk filaments.

2.3 TYES OF SILK FABRICS

2.3.1 CHIFFON

A light, matt fabric made from fine twisted yarns, spaced out to make the fabric transparent. Dimension is added to garments by the creation of billows of fabric .Unless it is used for scarves, garments with chiffon normally require lining or backing.

2.3.2 CREPE A lightweight fabric made by fibres, where part of them are twisted clockwise and others in a counter-clockwise direction. These fibres are then woven in a plainweave fabric. The twisted fibres give crepe its distinctive pebbly look and feel. 2.3.3 DUPION SILK

Produced from two silkworms that spin a cocoon together. This makes a strong double-thread silk, usually resulting in a rough yarn and irregularity in sheerness or weight. Feels coarse. Black specks which occasionally appear in the fabric are part of the original cocoon of the silk worm. Removing them would both weaken the fabric and destroy part of its beauty and character. They are inherent to dupion silk fabric and should not be considered as defects in weaving. 2.3.4 TAFFETA SILK Taffeta silk is a crisp, smooth plain woven fabric made from silk fibres. It considers being a high end fabric, suitable for use in ball gowns, wedding dresses an in interior for curtains. There two distinct types of silk fabrics yarn dyed and piece dyed. Piece-dyed taffeta is often used in linings and is quite soft.

2.3.5 ORGANZA SILK Organza is a thin, plain weave, sheer fabric traditionally made from silk. Organza is used for bridal wear and eveningwear. In the interiors market it is used for effects in bedrooms and between rooms.

2.3.6 GEORGETTE SILK Georgette is a sheer, lightweight, dull-finished crepe fabric. Georgette is plain or tabby woven, and like other crepes is made with highly twisted yarns. Georgette's characteristic crinkly surface is created by alternating S- and Z-twist yarns in both warp and weft. Georgette is made in solid colors or prints, and is used for blouses, dresses, evening gowns, and trimmings. It is springier and less lustrous than the closely related chiffon.

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CHAPTER 3 ELEMENTS OF DOBBY DESIGNING 3.1 PATTERN CYLINDER

The pattern cylinder of the dobby is placed beneath the feelers by mounting cylinder shaft into two brackets. The cylinder should be so set that the pegs and pattern chain come directly under respective individual feelers and are able to just push the corresponding feelers. The cylinder position can be adjusted vertically through cylinder shaft brackets and laterally through set screw on the ratchet and star wheel. The pattern cylinder should move 1/8th of revolution for every second pick. A pushing pawl is adjusted in the slot of an T-lever, when the T-lever is at top position, keeping a clearance of about 1/4 inch between tip of pawl and racket tooth. The star wheel along with its spring lever is set at the back end of the cylinder shaft and is provided with set screws to position the cylinder properly. The cylinder after turning should remain steady with next lag squarely at the top position.

3.2 PATTERN PEGS

The types of pegs used on lags of pattern chain vary from machine to machine. Most common type of pegs is wooden tapered peg or plain peg. The

disadvantage with this peg is that it tends to sink deeper into the lag as hole widens with use. It is necessary that all the pegs on the lags of same lattice are firmly held and are of the same height projecting out.

3.3 PATTERN LAGS Lags are made from wood for length depending upon the type size of the dobby. The holes on lags are made as per pitch of feelers of dobby. The surface at top of lag may be plain or grooved. Each lag consists of wire staples driven at either end of it to form a double loop. The lags are linked together by wire rings to form a lattice.

3.4 LATTICE The number of picks in the design determines the number of lags. All the lags are connected together by means of chain and this type of arrangement is called lattice. The pegs on the lags decides the design on the fabric. The lags are linked together by wire rings to form a lattice. It will mount on the pattern cylinder.

CHAPTER 4 ELEMENTS OF JACQUARD DESIGNING

4.1 CARDS Different sizes and different pitches of the machines require different cards. Three different types of cards, 1.408 English coarse pitch machine - 412mm*60mm 2.1320 Vincenzi pitch machine - 377mm*69mm 3.896 Verdol pitch machine - 320mm*27mm

In a fully punched card each hole represents the connection of a needle to a hook except the peg and lace holes. One card represents one pick i.e. one row on the design paper and each position, a small square on the design paper or the graph paper. Whenever a cross mark is marked in the design paper, a hole is punched in the card to represent the mark and whenever there is a blank in the design paper a blank is left on the card. 4.2 JACQUARD HARNESS Jacquard harness system includes neck cords, harness cords, mails, lingoes and comber board. Mails are usually made of brass, steel, copper or galvanized iron. A common mail will have an eye in the center for warp thread and two small holes at each end to receive coupling twine. Linen folded yarns, which are sized, are used for harness cords. Lingo is a dead weight suspended from the bottom end of harness to keep it in tension. Lingoes are usually made from cylindrical wire or lead; they vary in length from 7 inches to 19 inches and weigh 20 to 30 per pound for cotton weaving.

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CHAPTER 5
DESIGN PREPARATION

5.1 STEPS FOLLOWED IN PREPARATION OF DESIGN The design to be woven on the fabric is first drawn on the inch graph sheet. Hedging is done for the design drawn on the graph sheet. Designs cannot be produced without hedging Hedging is done so as to obtain exact borders of the design drawn on the graph paper. While during hedging, if the border line covers more than half the box (1/10th of the inch box), then the corresponding box is included. If not the respective box is excluded. Incorporation of weaves: The basic weaves that could be produced in this design are plain, twill, satin & sateen weaves. minimum ends required to weave plain fabric : 2 minimum ends required to weave twill fabric : 3 minimum ends required to weave satin/sateen fabric : 5

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CHAPTER 6 DESIGN ON DOBBY

6.1 PROCESS FLOW CHART

Design repeat outline

Tracing onto graph

Incorporation of weaves

Flow checking & insertion of binding marks

Draft

Peg plan

Pegging of lags

lattice Preparation

Mounting of lattice onto dobby

Figure 6.1.Process flow chart

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6.2 DESIGN PREPARATION This part is already has been explained in chapter 5. 6.3 PEGGING OF LAGS Method of pegging of lags for dobbys depends upon the position of mounting of the dobby over the loom. It is customary to mount the dobby on the offside of the loom. A dobby may be right hand or left hand dobby, which is decided by the position of the starting handle or hand of the loom. A right hand dobby is for right hand loom but mounted on its right side, as seen by the weaver at the front of the loom.

When the pattern cylinder has turned and the next lag has been brought to the feelers for functioning, the bottom knife has moved in, to its rear position to be ready to draw bottom hooks. It is apparent from this that the first pick of any lag must operate on bottom knife of the dobby and by feelers. It is therefore customary to arrange the feelers depending upon the hand of dobby to simplify pegging. 6.4 LATTICE PREPARATION The lags are linked together by wire rings to form a lattice. The number of picks in the design determines the number of lags. All the lags are connected together by means of chain and this type of arrangement is called lattice. The pegs on the lags decides the design on the fabric. It will mount on the pattern cylinder.

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6.5 LOOM PREPARATION

6.5.1 LATTICE MOUNTING ON CYLINDER The prepared lattice was set to mount on the cylinder. Once the lattice was prepared it was mounted either in right or on the left side of the lattice depending on the design requirement. After that the lattice was tied together at their ends for continuous use of the design to the next few repeats. 6.5.2 HARNESS PREPARATION The harness thread was taken and measured for the required length needed to that loom. The number of required threads is taken according to the dobby capacity. The threads were tied at the end of the dobby lever. The other end was tied to the heald wire. 6.5.3 COMBING The comber was placed at the top of the loom shed. The tied harness thread from the lever end before it was getting tied to the heald wire was made to pass through the comber board. It was made according to the capacity of the dobby. Combing was done to prevent the entanglement of the harness thread. 6.5.4 EXTRA WARP PREPARATION According to the repeat size the number of ends required was calculated. The calculated warp ends were taken and inserted with the warp threads were it was required. These extra warp threads were supported by the lease rods. 6.5.5 DRAWING The required amount of extra warp threads was inserted to the healed eye of the healed wire. These were done with the help a healed eye pin. The number of thread through the healed eye was decided according to the design.

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6.5.6 DENTING These threads were made to pass through the reed board using denting pin. The number of thread through the reed was decided by the stock ford reed system. The threads after denting were taken and tied to the take up roller.

6.6 WEAVING Dobby shedding system was used for shedding mechanism. When the peg was present warp up and in its absence warp down. Mostly hand loom was used. For every beat up from right to left and left to right one pick was inserted. There was no restriction on the number of picks per repeat. Design could be of any number of picks and the repeat of the design continues after the design and this was done till the required length of the fabric was formed. Only extra warp design could be produced.

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CHAPTER 7 DESIGN ON JACQUARD

7.1 TYPES OF JACQUARD There are 3 type of jacquard, 1. Single lifts single cylinder jacquard - One hook one needle controls one end 2. Double lift single cylinder jacquard - Two hooks one needle controls one end 3. Double lift double cylinder jacquard - Two hooks two needles controls one end

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7.2 PROCESS FLOW CHART

Design repeat outline

Tracing onto graph

Incorporation of weaves

Flow checking & insertion of binding marks

Card cutting

Card punching

Lacing

Mounting of lattice onto dobby

Figure7.2. Process flow chart

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7.3 DESIGN PREPARATION This part is already has been explained in chapter 5. 7.4 CARD CUTTING According to the number of ends of design. The different capacity of the jacquard was chosen. Respect to the jacquard capacity the card size varies. Thus cards were cut according to the requirement. 7.5 CARD PUNCHING Once the graph for the design was prepared it was taken for card punching. The first bottom horizontal row of the design paper represents the first pick and hence the first car and the number of divisions within the thick lines of the graph indicate the number of hooks in a short row. Normally the card was punched by reading from left to right on the graph paper. Each card was numbered subsequently. 7.6 LACING Sequent numbered cards were laced together with the numbers arranged in constructive order. Generally the numbers follow each other from one upwards it was called lacing forwards. The numbers follow each other in opposite direction it was called lacing backwards. 7.7 LOOM PREPARATION 7.7.1 MOUNTING THE CARDS The laced cards were taken and mounted on the loom cylinder. It was mounted from any end of the lacing depending on the design required

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7.7.2 HARNESS PREPARATION The harness thread was taken and measured for the required length needed to that loom. The number of required threads is taken according to the jacquard capacity. The neck cord were tied to the hook . The one end of the harness thread were tied to neck cord. Mail eye was attached to the harness thread. Lingos were suspended as dead weight. 7.7.3 COMBING The comber was placed at the top of the loom shed. The tied harness thread from the neck cord before it was getting tied to the mail eye was made to pass through the comber board. It was made according to the capacity of the jacquard. Combing was done to prevent the entanglement of the harness thread. 7.7.4 EXTRA WARP PREPARATION According to the repeat size the number of ends required was calculated. The calculated warp ends were taken and inserted with the warp threads were it was required. These extra warp threads were supported by the lease rods. 7.7.5 DRAWING The required amount of extra warp threads was inserted to the mail eye. These were done with the help a mail eye pin. the number of thread through the mail eye was decided according to the design.

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7.7.6 DENTING These threads were made to pass through the reed board using denting pin. The number of thread through the reed was decided by the stock ford reed system. The threads after denting were taken and tied to the take up roller.

7.8 WEAVING Jacquard shedding system was used for shedding mechanism. When the hole was present warp up and in its absence warp down. Mostly hand loom was used. For every beat up from right to left and left to right one pick was inserted. There was no restriction on the number of picks per repeat. Design could be of any number of picks and the repeat of the design continues after the design and this was done till the required length of the fabric was formed. Both extra warp and weft design could be produced.

7.9 ELECTRONIC JACQUARD In this machine we don't need the cards for producing the design on the fabric. We give the design as the input to the computer, which is mounting or set on the top of the machine it will produce the design on the fabric where we wishes to produce.

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CHAPTER 8 JALA TECHNOLOGY

8.1 JALA TECHNOLOGY In ancient times by using this technology they produce the shedding without the help of lattice, cards or other extra attachments. We can produce extra weft design. There is no limitation on ends and picks per repeat. We can produce the selective design on the selective area on the fabric on weft thread side.

Prepare the thick thread parallel to the weft thread above the specific distance Each thread has connected to each other. Threads are depends on design size According to the design threads have to lift that connected thick threads are make a bundle.

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CHAPTER 9 CONCLUSION

From this in plant training we gain knowledge about spinning process of silk filament and woven design produce on silk fabrics by using dobby & jacquard

attachments and its issues in processing and this training is extremely useful to carry out our technology analysis of various machines and fault clearance. Thus we conclude by saying that we learn the process of the weaving and the management difficulties of the silk industries. Regarding the wages and wastages are taken into account and made a clear study.. The training period gave us the opportunity to adapt the new environment and to work with various people who were hailing from various social back grounds. The training period gave a clear insight about our future area of working. Each new employer is imparted induction training covering topics on introduction of the company, policy, procedures, code of contact and work policies. Need based training programs are conducted periodically. These training programs are aimed at social welfare, health and safety. In order to have effective installation and implementation of the Social activities, the industry has appointed nurses, labor welfare officers, health and safety officers. The industry also provides mess for the labors at a very cheap rate.

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REFERENCE
1. http://www.cstri.res.in/

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