Permaculture Design Report

Greenacres Sharpham Somerset April 2012

Contents
1. Background information about Permaculture 2. The Design Process a. SADIMET overview b. Sector Analysis c. Zone Analysis d. Principle applications e. Functional analysis f. Spirals of erosion g. Inputs/Outputs Analysis 3. Design Details a. House, Patio & Trellis b. Pollytunnel c. Zone 1 Vesica Pisces Circles d. Zodiac Herb Garden e. Cottage Garden Area f. Pond and/or Constructed Wetland & Soakaway g. Other sewage aspects h. Fruits i. Small-Scale Firewood Production j. Windbreak Re-design k. Compost systems l. Withie Beds m. Weed management at Greenacres 4. Implementation Plan Appendices a. b. c. d. e. Species list Recommended suppliers Recommended reading, courses & resources Design Questionnaire Notes Folder of Resources (pdfs and so forth)

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Background Information about Permaculture

Permaculture is a process of design based around principles in the natural world, of cooperation with people and landscape, the creation of mutually beneficial relationships, and translating these principles into actions. Natural systems are self-making, self-organising, highly resilient and adaptable, which is why we try to apply their principles to our gardens and systems that we are managing for our needs. Permaculture Ethics Three core ethics lay the foundation to every permaculture design and inform every decision in the design process: Earth Care: Permaculture is about working with nature not against it, systems should be designed so that resources are used sustainably. All species need to be considered and designed for in designs. People Care: People care is about caring and acting for future generations as well as each other. Self-reliance, co-operation and mutual support should be encouraged. Systems also have to be designed to meet human and social needs. Fairshares: Fair shares means limiting consumption and working for everyone to have access to the fundamental needs of life. Surplus should be equitably distributed. Permaculture Principles Permaculture principles are formed from observations of natural systems and successful human communities, they include:
q q q q q q q

Work with Nature: Work with the elements, climatic factors, native species and natural processes so that we assist rather than impede natural developments. The problem is the solution: Everything works both ways in nature, we can use elements to our benefit e.g. a wind can bring coolness. Make the least change for the greatest effect. The yield of a system is theoretically unlimited what limits our gardens and systems is only our knowledge and imagination. Everything gardens everything effects its own environment. Multifunction everything in nature has multiple functions, so every component in the design should function in many ways. Produce no waste nothing is wasted in nature, everything is food for everything else.

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The Design Process

a) Overview of the Design Process
To prepare this design I have used the common permaculture design tool called SADIMET:

Survey: This relates to the first permaculture principle of observe & interact. A survey includes both noting details and observations in the garden as well as gathering the preplanning information needed from the Design Questionnaire with the client. A copy of which is in the appendix of this report. Analysis: This involves looking at all of the information collected above and systematically analyzing it so we can better decide the placement of components and their relationships. A key part is looking at functions, systems and components and the links between them. Zone analysis looks at how the client interacts with the site on a daily basis, for example how often paths are used or which parts of the garden are in easy reach for maintenance. Sector analysis, where we look at and how outside energies affect the site, such as the climate, outside views, precipitation and so forth. Design: Now that we know what we are trying to achieve with the design, we look at what systems and elements can fulfill our desired and needed functions. Concept plans are drawn which are then discussed and reviewed together with the client. Implementation: When a consensus has been achieved in terms of the design, a detailed design can be completed to the specification of the client, for example detailed planting schemes. An implementation plan then looks at the timeline of costs and yields and how a design can be most practically and affordably be implemented. Maintenance: An outline of annual maintenance can be drawn with the associated costs of time. Evaluation: The client and designer can then both informally and formally evaluate the design following implementation. Tweak: Every design can be tweaked for maximum yields. All designs are dynamic and will continue to change following the clients and designers learning pathways in permaculture.

o o

There are a number of design considerations that are a given for all permaculture systems: Systems should last as long as possible Take as least maintenance as possible Systems should be regenerative, that is meeting their own needs e.g. fertility cycles Systems should meet the needs of the client and human communities. Energy can be used to construct these systems, providing that in their lifetime, they store or conserve more energy than we use to construct or maintain them. The role of design is to create a successful self-managed system.

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b)

Sector Analysis

The sectors include all the outside energies that affect the design that is energies beyond the control of the client. These have been drawn onto overlays of the base map created. A number of sectors that affect Greenacres & need to be designed around include: o Winds from the South West have had to be evaluated as well as their patterns over the land in case of any windbreak. o General climatic factors such as rainfall, frost, weather patterns and so forth that affect all gardens. o Noise from the road at present but also in the light of changing external activities, such as upcoming peat extraction adjacent to the land. There are also changes in the probable land use of the lakes on the borders of the property, which may result in fishing activity and an increase in pedestrian and motor traffic. There are also noise considerations from neighbouring barking dogs, which is considerable. o Flooding research has been undertaken around the lands flood risk (see appendix). o Peat extraction research has been undertaken around the effects of peat extraction both in terms of soil & chemistry activity as well as an increase in traffic and air pollution. Peat is also highly flammable and is another risk that need to be factored into the sector analysis. o Views there are a number of desired views from the land, such as to the lakes and also to Glastonbury Tor as well as being able to witness bird movements overhead. These have all had to be considered.

c) Zone Analysis
Zone analysis looks at how the client interacts with the site on a daily basis, for example how often paths are used or which parts of the garden are in easy reach for maintenance. Zoning is a common tool in permaculture design. The zone system is a conceptual tool to help place elements in the system 1 to save time, energy and labour . In the book Gaias Garden, Toby Hemmingway articulates that zones are based on dynamic relationships. He communicates that choosing the zone in which to place a design element depends on two things: The number of times we need to visit the plant, animal or structure The number of times it needs us to visit it. Below is a table to illustrate the zone system used in permaculture:
The Zone System: Functions and Contents (from Gaias Garden) Functions Structures Crops Zone 1: Most intensive use and care. Zone of selfreliance. Modify house microclimate, provide daily food and flowers, social space, plant propagation Greenhouse, trellis, arbor, deck, patio, bird bath, storage, potting shed, workshop, worm bin Salad greens, herbs, flowers dwarf trees, low shrubs, lawn, trees for microclimate Garden Techniques Intensive weeding & mulching, dense stacking, square foot and biointensive beds, espalier, propagation Weekly Water Sources Rain barrels, small ponds, greywater, household tap Animals Rabbits, guinea pigs, poultry, worms

Zone 2:

Home food

Greenhouse,

Staple and

Well,

Rabbits,

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Semiintensively cultivated. Domestic production zone. Zone 3: Low intensity, extensive methods. Farm methods.

production, some market crops, plant propagation, bird & insect habitat Cash crops, firewood, lumber and pasture.

barns, tool shed, shop, wood storage

Feed storage, field shelters

canning crops, multifunctional plants, small fruits and nuts, fire-retardant plants, natives Cash crops, large fruit and nut trees, animal forage, shelterbeltsm seedlings for grafting, natives Firewood, timber, pasture plants, native plants Native plants, mushrooms

weeding and care, spot mulch, cover crops, seasonal pruning Cover crops, coppicing, light pruning, moveable fences

pond, large tanks, grey water irrigation, swales Large ponds, swales, storage in soil

fish, poultry

Zone 4: Minimal care. Forage zone. Zone 5: Unmanaged. Wilderness zone.

Hunting, gathering, grazing Inspiration, foraging, meditation

Animal feeders None

Pasturing and selective forestry Unmanaged, occasional wildcrafting

Ponds, swales and creeks Lakes, creeks

Goats, pigs, cows, horses, other large animals, free range poultry Grazing animals Native animals

In relation to Greenacres, the current zone analysis (how the garden is used at present) revealed the below. Each of these elements affected the re-design. Zone 0 o House Zone 1 o Area directly outside the house o Skylas garden run area o Pollytunnel o Shed used for propagation o Outbuildings o Area where there are borders prepared & lawn Zone 2 o Where vegetables were grown in the previous growing season o Zone o Zone o Zone o Area where fruit trees are planted (Zone 2-3) 3 Remainder of main garden which was cultivated by previous residents 4 Current hazel coppice & nut trees 5 Weedy wild areas near the fence

d) Principle Applications
One of the co-founders of permaculture was an Australian ecologist called David Holmgren, who over time has developed 12 principles that can be applied in the design of sustainable systems. Please see the appendix for how to find out more about these principles. Permaculture Principle Observe & interact Applied to Greenacres Observation stage included site survey, additional research, design questionnaire proves & social observations as well as the sector analysis and other pre-planning information gathered.

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Catch & Store Energy

Obtain a Yield

Apply self-regulation & Accept Feedback

Use & Value Renewable Resources & Services

Produce no Waste

Design from Patterns to Details Integrate Rather than Segregate Use Small & Slow Solutions Use & Value Diversity

Rainwater harvesting infrastructure will support the capture of rainwater. A compost bin system (included for dog feces will keep nutrients within the system. Perennials & trees are preferred for energy storage and can help capture water & nutrients for the system. Edible flowers, salad crops, annual and perennial vegetables, Medicinal and culinary herbs. Multi-functioning cottage garden species. Fruit bushes. Willow & hazel coppice for small-scale firewood production. Therapeutic and spiritual yields for client and guests. Monitor garden for seasonal trends and which plants do better than others, may indicate long term trends. Continuous process of review and re-design. Water butts, bees & pollinating insects, worms, beneficial pest predators, compost materials, reclaimed building materials, ground cover and soil protection. Compost any removed plant material. Re-use any appropriate materials available from the system during development e.g. soil from wetland excavation. Sector analysis. Overall spiritual vision and metaphysical associations as a broad design pattern. Areas are linked with paths & waste systems enable multi-functioning outputs and inputs. See implementation plan. Trees, fruit, herbs and flowers are all from a range of families, genus, species and varieties, which will increase pest resistance as well as give enhanced biodiversity. We can diversify the food in your garden by: Selecting early, mid and late season varieties Planting in succession Selecting long-yielding varieties Diversifying plantings so that leaves, fruit, seeds and roots are all yields By choosing varieties that can easily be stored The borders of the garden use the edges and the shelter from the hedge to create a microhabitat. The pond/wetland system will be designed with maximum edge. Path edges are cultivated and circular beds increase edge.

Use Edges & Value the Marginal

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Creatively Use & Respond to Change

The implementation plan will need to be reviewed and decisions on planting made if certain plants do not do as well as expected. The design will undoubtedly grow & develop over time and may inspire feedback for changes. Personal growth will also affect the need for re-design.

e) Functional Analysis
All systems have functions, for example a school has a function of education, a bank may function to increase its wealth. A function is what you want to achieve and the system or elements are the means by which you achieve it. Elements are changeable and do not have the greatest influence over system behavior, however the relationships between elements are what really make the difference. For example replacing all the players in a football team will not change the game of football, changing the rules however will and changing the function even more so. Key functions are: Most important things wanted by client Remedial strategies/points of intervention to plug worst energy leaks Key functions identified for the Greenacres Design, taken from the design questionnaire and observations include: Food production Art inspiration, materials & creative functions Wildlife habitat Spiritual connection Social participation Complementary fuel provision Safe space for Dog Income Wind protection Beauty

Below is a table exploring these functions. In nature, elements are multifunctional for example a tree may give shelter from the wind, provide food and provide wildlife habitat. By undertaking a functional analysis it is then easier to recognize which elements can support different functions and how to make the system more self-regulating. Function Food production Potential Systems Vegetable gardens (plants) Vegetable gardens (structures) Orchard/fruit planting Trellis/pergola Elements Carrots, potatoes etc Perennial vegetables Pollytunnel, propagating shed, compost bin, tools, containers Apples, plums, pears, fruit bushes etc Climbers, wood for structures

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Art inspiration, materials & creative functions Wildlife support

Pond Studio space Willows bed Pond Wildlife habitat Wildlife forage

Edible water plants Studio, light, materials e.g. clay, paints & canvases, Willows Plants, water, levels/stones, birds, amphibians, fish Plants, bees, butterflies & insects, insect homes e.g. bee hotels, Trees, shrubs, hedges, wildflowers, water Plants (e.g. bee forage), fruit, seeds & nuts producing species, water Pond, plants, fountain/movement generator, wildlife Statues, plants & trees, colours e.g. purple, ashes, cherry tree, shapes e.g. sacred geometry Bedrooms, car park, kitchen, seating, garden, people Garden, seating, kitchen, facilities e.g. toilets, carpark, people Garden including sacred areas, seating, kitchen, facilities e.g. toilets, carpark, people, yurt Fencing, locks, gates Posts, chains Veg garden, Herb area, Cut flowers, fruit, pollytunnel, packing space, kitchen, carpark Conservatory, materials, materials from land Workshops, car park, garden (if integrated), materials from land Showmans carriage, bunk house, toilets, kitchen, car park, garden Garden including sacred areas, seating, kitchen, facilities e.g. toilets, carpark, people, yurt Gaps in trees, windows, benches Plant species, colour, statues, shapes e.g. sacred geometry, shape of paths Leyllandii Ash, Walnut Wood panels, wire, posts

Spiritual connection

Water feature Sacred space areas/sanctuaries

Social participation

Friends & family staying Local garden share/ community participation Acting as a venue/host for local groups e.g. goddess, gardening Compounds/fenced areas Chain posts Growing produce to sell Selling art Workshop leasing Accommodation Acting as a venue/host for local groups e.g. goddess, gardening Views (to external) Views (internal) Hedge Trees Fence

Safe space for Skyla (Dog) Income

Beauty Wind protection

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f) Spirals of erosion
In natural systems, energy and nutrients are cycled. There is no away in nature. In people-based systems we often have resources and energy flows that are eroding/ Current energy leaks or spirals of erosion that can be identified from site observations & the client interviews of Greenacres include: Nutrients & natural resources: o Sewage is going to the septic tank & then soakaway, taking only one persons load, using water to flush & creating a maintenance task o Weeds are using the sites current nutrients, not being harvested or creating a yield o Skyla (the dog)s excrement is going out in the waste collection o Watering is excessive in heat of the summer in pollytunnel & a daily task o Structures are eroding o Plants are watered with mains water Finances & Energy: o Time is felt to being wasted weeding & re-weeding o Firewood is being bought-in & is one key expenditure o Time is spent off site to earn income o Living from savings is non-renewable/erosion spiral Surpluses o Veg or produce in larger quantities than for one person are at risk of being wasted without opportunities to share/sell Social & emotional: o Emotional energy is being drained through feelings of being overwhelmed o Barking neighbouring dogs are causing headaches o Neighbouring peat extraction in near future will cause noise & physical disturbance

A permaculture design will aim to fix these spirals of erosion to attempt to support them to become spirals of abundance. For example at Greenacres, the interventions illustrated in the final design are included in the design details section.

g) Inputs/Outputs Analysis
Input/output analysis is a very useful design tool to illustrate what systems need to function and what outputs they are producing. This enables us to make outputs useful (for other parts of the system) as well as to identify where our inputs are unsustainable or not regenerative (from nonrenewable resources for example. I have used this design tool to explore some of the potential systems that have surfaced during the observation & design questionnaire stages: Potential System Inputs Outputs

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Vegetable gardens

Compost/fertility Watering Weeding/energy investment Seeds Seed compost Propagation equipment e.g. trays, dibbers Labels Pollytunnel/ propagation space Protection from digging Herbs (either grown via seed using equipment above or plug plants) Watering (very occasionally) Prepared beds Stones for heat retention Occasional weeding Protection from digging Plants either grown via seed using equipment above or plug plants) Prepared bed Occasional weeding Occasional watering when developing Protection from digging Plastic/butyl liner Plants Fish Stones/levels Water Protection from digging Wood Nails/screws (for restructuring) Bed or container preparation e.g. soil Fertility Plants Fertility e.g. from nitrogen fixers Watering very occasionally Management e.g. occasional weeding of aggressive species, scything Pruning Planting Mulching esp during establishment Plants including canopy, shrub, herb & ground cover species Plants including planting Removal of other species Occasional watering Potential staking Potential pruning/shape management Willow cuttings Mulch materials

Vegetables Matter to compost

Herb garden areas

Cottage garden perennial borders

Food Medicine Craft materials Pot pouri Dyes Wildlife forage Beauty Wildlife forage Beauty Potential medicine

Pond

Wildlife habitat Spiritual connection Some food

Planted Trellis/ pergola

Food Wildlife forage Beauty Food Wildlife habitat & forage Spiritual connection Beauty Medicine Art materials

Orchard/ Forest Garden

Multifunctional windbreak

Depending on species: Food Wildlife Habitat Art materials Art materials Wildlife forage

Willow bed

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Water

Fuel

3. Design Details
House, Patio & Trellis We have not explored the ecological footprint of the house or how it integrates with the land however there are some key opportunities for additional functions. Containers can be a great source of food and as they are so close to the actual kitchen they are often eat more regularly that those from the vegetable patch. With skyla this may be a challenge! The other option is utilizing the trellis to grow some edible climbers, a few potential species of which are in the appendix. Pollytunnel A pollytunnel is effectively an indoor ecosystem, where we are responsible for meeting many of the inputs such as water and fertility. Pollytunnels and greenhouses are fantastic spaces for propagation as they create many of the right conditions for seed germination (warmth, light etc). However there limitations include: o Temperatures - which can become excessive in the summer. I would recommend ensuring you have an effective form of ventilation, such as opening the back end or at the very least leaving the door open. Most plants will benefit. I have also included a list of pollytunnel crops, a basic summary of which is: o Salads over winter (see Charles Dowding book on growing winter veg) o Seeds & propagation in spring o More warmth loving species for the remainder of the growing season, for example squashes, cucumbers and other curcubits, tomatoes, aubergines and other heat-loving fruiting veg, as well as varieties such as grape vines where feasible. If you are having a very hard time managing weed species in the pollytunnel, your options could include: o Replacing it in the near future, which would be a high investment & energy intensive task o Re-covering the floor with myplex or groundcover to prevent weed growth from underneath o Building raised beds within the pollytunnel if you'd prefer using it for year round indoor crops rather than propagation (many pollytunnels have a table in the middle for seed trays and such like). o If you built beds you could then install a seeper house irrigation system that would save time watering. Zone 1 Vesica Pisces Circles The two Vesica Pisces circles in the design are a way of honouring this sacred symbol as well as identifying your 'zone one', which is the most intensive area of land use in your garden.

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Ultimately your zone one is the most high maintenance area where you invest more energy, for example staying on top of weeds, additional watering and feeding of plants. The theme I was suggesting was based on the traditional 'potager' style. A Jardin Potager, is a kitchen garden in French and the style is where one meets the need for food production but in an aesthetically pleasing way, mixing colours, flowers, vegetables, herbs and fruits. They are designed for their beauty and productivity and generally have distinct & strong lines and paths. Paths are often edged with herbs or flowers (such as Tagetes species which also deter pests) as well as box edging. Despite growing on a small scale I would still recommend using a rotation. This is where annual crops are rotated, so that pests and diseases do not store up in soils or certain areas and plants can remain more resilient. Rotations are also based on the nutrient levels, with some species needing more feeding than others. I have enclosed a leaflet from Garden Organic that explains the theory and practice of rotations in more detail. The garden will also benefit from succession sowing, a technique explained by Charles Dowding in his salad for all seasons book where he describes how he extends the life of salads over a growing season (link in the appendix). I have also enclosed some photographs of circular garden layouts so that you may see different path options. For the second circle this could be a continuation of vegetables otherwise it could be used for herbs or cut flowers, for example for crops that you could sell the surplus of - it is free for whatever you decide you may find easiest and most enjoyable to grow. The inner circle pond is designed to capture the biodiversity of the edges. I would suggest having a small pond that is more diverse in shape within this space as well as a seat or option to sit and bask in the glory of your kitchen garden! Path materials will involve some experimentation, as I do not have experience constructing paths on peat. A suggested book is High Impact, Low carbon gardening (detailed in the appendix) which goes into detail about the options for paths and the ecological footprint of different materials. Prioritizing what to grow in your kitchen garden For some deciding what to grow is obvious however for many we end up growing too much of what we don't like or use (simply for the experimentation aspect!), or we dedicate a large amount of space to produce that is relatively cheap to buy. Therefore I would recommend choosing your kitchen garden species on the basis of: o o o o o o What is expensive to buy or hard to find What is best eaten fresh What is easy to grow What takes the least effort to grow Species which are heavy yielding for little effort But above all what you enjoy eating & sharing

You can see your responses in the design questionnaire to re-call species you said you enjoyed!

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Another option in comparison to annual vegetables is to integrate some perennial vegetables into your garden. These will require less work and often have a greater nutritional value, however their opportunities are less and their yields are often smaller. I have included a list of perennial vegetables in the species list for you to explore and experiment with if desired. Zodiac Herb Garden I have designed the zodiac stones to be within a nested circular system, with a small circular path for access. In the appendix is a list of zodiac herbal correspondences and there are many others listed online. I would suggest prioritizing herbs you are likely to use more regularly, can make items from or those that are highly aromatic. Cottage Garden Area The cottage garden area detailed on your design will make a beautiful addition to Greenacres. I have included a list of common cottage garden species. I would recommend growing these to transplant size and then planting them out simultaneously to prevent weeding and re-weeding. They are also of varying heights, which need to be considered. The species I have recommended are multifunctional, for example they may be medicinal, edible or a great wildlife plant. Others are of course appropriate - as much diversity as possible - however I would recommend maximising the use of perennials to save yourself time and effort. Pond and/or Constructed Wetland & Soakaway I have enclosed a link to some information about the safety of planting on soakaways. Grass is fine but there are legislations around paths and structures such as greenhouses, which I would suggest need further research. Wetland Ecosystem Treatment (WET) systems are a form of wastewater purification which have higher biodiversity benefits than reedbeds and a very low embedded energy (no gravel is needed and so forth). You can read more about them here (http://www.biologicdesign.co.uk). My friend Jay runs Biologic Design and I suspect he would be happy to answer any queries we have. He has designed massive systems for cider factories and so forth but I have also seen examples of his work in homes and B&Bs and so I am confident a WET system could be constructed at Greenacres. Please let me know if you would be interested in a system such as this and either, i could design it with support from Jay (as its mainly the environmental agency factors I need support with rather than the plant siting) or I could contact Jay and see if he could install an affordable system for yourself. There are massive benefits on an ecological level and a series of ponds would be a wonderful addition to Greenacres. Otherwise, you could leave the soakaway as it is and build a separate pond system. A few factors need to be considered: Due to the free-draining nature of your soil, you will need a sealed liner, rather than a natural water level pond. The area you identified as most damp was also congruent with my soil tests and so this is the area identified on the design. Fortunately with the orientation of your land, the trees or hedge should not shade the pond but you will need to be aware of leaf fall into the pond and other vegetation. Maximising the 'edge' of the pond and the variation of depth will increase the number of habitats and ecological niches. I would recommend reading more about ponds in the handouts or reading books on the subject

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before designing your pond more in detail. They will also go through the pros & cons of different liner materials. As you can see in the pdf, having a series of ponds, however small can be really beneficial. I have also enclosed a list of edible water plant species, from the Plants for a Future book (that I cannot recommend highly enough), which you may like to integrate into the design of your pond. Other sewage aspects Aside from the constructed wetland I have also drawn a compost toilet near to the panel fence, with the foresight of having people stay on the land. Compost toilets are one of the best ecological solutions and composted humanure would be safe to use on your orchard or tree species. A second loop closing design element is introducing some pee bales. They are basically straw bales that you can urinate on and then this straw can eventually be placed around fruit trees and is a fantastic source of nutrients. Please see the liquid gold book in the recommended reading. Fruits Several factors affect the decisions of where to plant fruiting species & which ones to plant. The rootstock vigour is important and if the varieties need a pollination partner. Shelter from wind can be important for many and another factor to consider is birds. One effective measure for heavy fruit cropping is a fruit cage, which is useful for shrub-sized species. I have included a list of fruits in the species list, which you may like to research further for the planting of your orchard area and the integration of fruit around Greenacres. Fruit generally like a pH of 6.6-6.7 and so your soil is ideal! Other options beyond canopy trees & bushes would be to have espaliers or cordons, for example in your kitchen garden area. These may not be needed with how much space you have for fruit but they can make a creative addition to the garden and make a nice use of height. The agroforestry research trust has a very useful catalogue indicating species with notes on all of the above. I have included their web link in the appendix. Small-scale firewood production You are unlikely to meet all of your fuel needs from your land, however with a well designed short rotation coppice you may be able to effectively contribute to your wood usage, especially as a single man in a smallish house! Certain varieties of willow can produce logs of up to 7cm+ thick in 5 years. You can also find more details about this online, with the links I have included. I would suggest talking through with them on the phone or visiting some example sites to help you decide. You will need to be aware of weeds for young cuttings and ideally plant them in a plastic mulching fabric. You already have three stands of hazel, which means you are a step ahead, and these can be coppiced either soon for craft materials or in a few years for wood. Also any tree work undertaken over the next few years can be used for your stove.

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Willow shoots can also be used for basketry, hurdles, living willow sculpture and more. I would suggest visiting a willow farm to get a feel for varieties, their colours and sizes and thinking further about what you would explicitly like to make, especially for items which you could then sell. Be aware that firewood options don't just include the edge near the conifers, a windbreak system could be designed with willow which could also be chipped and used for firewood. Windbreak Re-design In terms of planting your edges, be aware that most trees extend at least one and a half times as far as the branches. The ideal windbreak for buildings & crops is 20 to 50% permeable. The top half is especially effective as a mesh of twigs, stems and leaves however it must be designed so the lower half is more than just a line of tree trunks as this will also funnel winds and affect crops downwind. Therefore it is important to choose species that have lower branches or aim for a tree & understory hedge option. As a general rule, a 20% reduction in windspeed at ground level extends to 10 times its height downwind. In the species list there are several shrubs and trees listed. I would suggest taking one leylandii out and integrating one replacement tree (as old as you can afford) for the first late autumn/winter and repeating. Planting a second layer in front of the leylandii would also be beneficial. In permaculture we aim for windbreaks to be 'multifunctional', serving more than one purpose than just reducing harmful winds. I have included some edible fruiting species however due to the strength of winds in your area I would not be dependent on them to crop massively! They also serve functions for wildlife and biodiversity so it is still a positive replacement for something like leylandii. Compost systems Your main area in need of compost will be the kitchen garden, which requires an import of fertility. There are a lot of detailed resources around and I would recommend the book, How to make & use compost, as detailed in the appendix. Where it is sited is quite important as you need to be able to: o Empty materials onto it easily o Turn it or manage it easily o Carry compost to needed areas of the garden easily I often suggest to have several options, for example compost bins in different areas, such as a 'fast compost' which will decompose your vegetable scraps and a slow compost for longer rotting materials such as from more woody and mature species. I have also included a guide on how to compost dog waste in the appendix. A simple system could be installed for Skyla, which will mean her nutrients are then captured within the system. Withie Beds Growing your own willow for craft use would also be a great use of space at Greenacres. There are abundant varieties to choose from. I would recommend sufficiently weeding an area first and

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then growing the willow in a woven mulch mat. There are so many species of willows I would suggest deciding the colours, thicknesses and purposes you desire and grow to suit! Weed management at Greenacres A mulch is any material laid on the surface of the soil (bare soil is rare in nature!). Mulching will be a key weed management strategy at Greenacres so I would suggest some further reading on this. Functions of mulch are to kill weeds by denying them light, conserve water (by reducing evapotranspiration), protecting the soil from erosion, encouraging biological activity & often to add organic matter and nutrients. Different kinds of mulch include: *Clearance mulch o Colours other than black will be less effective if they let light through so it is best to use black plastic if possible o To effectively kill weeds this mulch needs to be down for the growing season - it basically works by weeds attempting to grow, finding they can't photsynthesize and then using their food reserves. o When you've lifted the plastic it is useful to do a once-over for anything left. Bindweed is notoriously difficult to mulch and so will be need to removed by hand. 'Lipping' the mulch can also be effective to prevent creeping weeds. *Grow through mulch o Does the same job as the above but crop plants are allowed to grow through via holes made o A super brief overview of creating a grow through mulch involves: watering the ground, covering with a layer of cardboard or very thick newspaper, add a layer of organic material such as grass cuttings, leaves, (many people use manure), seaweed or well rotted compost, then plant your transplanted seedlings direct into this mulch then cover with a top layer of straw or other loose material. o I would recommend reading up on this process or searching 'grow through mulch' on you tube to see someone demonstrating the technique. o This system is very effective at protecting the soil, feeding plants and reducing surface weeds. *Maintenance mulch o A winter mulch can be a great way to add nutrients to the soil and keep it covered over winter. You are basically covering the soil with rottable materials such as compost, manure, seaweed, grass, hay (beware of weed seeds), chopped reeds and comfrey (which is great if you have a large comfrey patch to re-crop). These above options are useful for high intensity areas, such as the vegetable garden. Other points to note are: o Its only worth weeding an area if you are then going to either mulch it or cover it, or if you will be planting something, pretty much that day or weekend! Otherwise the weeds will re-sow and return. This is where growing healthy largish plants to transplant can be a useful solution. Also planting more densely and then thinning out when established can prevent weed encroachment.

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Simply leaving areas to become weedy and not worrying about it - the edges of your garden where the wooded species will dominate, can be viewed as 'zone 5's or 4s and so allowing weed development is a feasible management option. This obviously depends on the proximity to areas that need to be weed free for their function e.g. kitchen garden. Groundcovers - finally the same principle of mulching is having a ground cover, but a living one. Groundcovers can vary from grass, which is easy to manage & effective, to edible species such as Nepalese raspberries. Groundcovers by their nature, which is often spreading runners, can become invasive and so awareness before planting is important. I have included a species list of edible ground covers but I suggest some more research & visit some sites where they are growing to get the 'feel for them'. Having different varieties may increase the edible varieties grown, add extra habitat and food for wildlife and bring diversity. Grass - grass is fairly one-dimensional as a species but it is an instant groundcover. It can be a challenge to combine with young fruit trees, which I would suggest mulching around. However grass can be a straightforward management option. Ways to improve its functions is to allow some areas to become longer which will support insect populations or to add bulbs and so forth if practical. Scything is a lovely traditional grass management technique, which doesn't require fossil fuels. Grass is also very easy to surface mulch when wanting to develop new areas. Companion planting - you may have heard of allelopathy, where one plant affects another plant my means of chemicals that it releases. Marigolds of the Tagates genius are said to have an effect of various weeds including bindweed. Tagates minuta, the Mexican Marigold is said to be the most potent. You could try interplanting some Tagates species on the edges of your kitchen garden.

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4. Implementation Plan
2012 Spring *Sow seeds & propagate species for garden *Mark out paths & construct (starting with zone 1 areas) *Weed areas such as the vesica pisces circles, herb garden area & withy bed & lay clearance mulch Summer *Focus on constructing vesica pisces circles e.g. marking out beds, paths & edging, mulching soil *Establish pee bale urinal *Build compost bins *Install dog waste composting system *Plant out cottage garden seedlings *Plant out herb garden seedlings *Plant comfrey patch Autumn *Plant fruit trees & shrubs *Undertake repairs of structures e.g. pergola Winter *Plant trees & shrubs on woodland edge & integrate into boundary. Remove leylanndii where possible. *Undertake tree work e.g. reomve dangerous branches *Continue with path construction *Mulch desired areas for following season *Tree pruning *Fruit tree pruning *Second year planting of trees & shrubs *Coppice hazel *Further planting of trees and shrubs *Coppice hazel and or willow for withies *Construct compost toilet 2013 *Lay grass or groundcover around mulched fruit trees/orchard area *Plant withy beds *Build living willow structures *Construct compound and yurt area *Excavate pond, line & plant. Build bridge. 2014 *Commission constructed wetland to treat waste water *Replace pollytunnel plastic if desired and/or install new watering rainwater harvesting system *Relax and enjoy garden!

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