Mary Borchert 2010 Vanilla Bead www.vanillabead.com www.facebook.com/vanillabead www.artfire.com/users/vanillabead www.etsy.

com/shop/vanillabeadstore This tutorial demonstrates the techniques used to make the EZY PZY ring. As the name implies, this is a very easy, fashionable, beginner level project, yet still fun for the more seasoned jeweler. While doing the research necessary to develop this lesson, I was able to make 3 to 4 rings an hour. Measurements used in this tutorial make a size 6 ring with a 10mm center bead and 6mm side beads and a size 5 if you use an 8mm center bead and 4mm side beads. Wire measurements for other sizes appear at the end of the lesson along with variations on the basic design. The final ring size is completely dependent on measuring the wire exactly, making the loops precisely the correct size and the millimeter size of your center bead. PLEASE READ THE ENTIRE TUTORIAL THROUGH PRIOR TO MAKING YOUR FIRST EZY PZY RING

Tutorial: EZY PZY Ring

Created by:

Materials:
3 16g 1/2 hard or dead soft wire 8 22g dead soft wire 1 - 10mm round bead (Size 6) 2 - 6mm round beads -OR1 8mm round bead (Size 5) 2 - 4 mm round beads Ruler Flush Cutters Stepped Round Nose Pliers with 2.7mm diameter tip - preferred Or Round nose pliers (see instructions on page 7) Ring Mandrel or Dowel File or Sandpaper Chain Nose Pliers Nylon Jaw Pliers - optional Cup Burr optional Rawhide or Rubber Mallet optional Permanent Marker - optional

Tools:

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Step 1: Cut 3 of 16g wire flush cutters.

DESIGNERS NOTE: Wire smaller than 16 gauge will be too flimsy for this project and heavier wire will be difficult to work with.

Step 2: Straighten and clean the wire. DESIGNERS NOTE: If you do not have nylon jaw pliers, you can straighten the wire by putting it in a cloth, pinching it between two fingers and pulling it between your fingers a few times.

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Step 3: File or sand the ends flat and smooth.

Step 4: Use the cup burr to smooth the edges optional.

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Step 5: Using your round nose pliers (at the 2.7mm mark) form a loop in one end of the wire.

Step 6: Round the wire forward.

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Step 7: Keep rounding.

Step 8: Close the loop tightly against the wire.

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Step 9: Slide your pliers back along the loop until they rest against the long wire. Bend the wire slightly back. This centers the loop over the remainder of the wire It should look like a shepherds crook or an eye pin. NOTE: This may pull the loop away from the wire a bit, just keep working it back and forth until you have a perfect loop. Step 10: Form a loop at the opposite end, going the opposite direction, following the steps outlined above.

Step 11: Your wire should look like this and should measure 23/8 (6cm) loop end to loop end. DESIGNERS NOTE: Some loop making instructions describe a different method to make a loop. The loops in this project are made with this technique to ensure consistent size.

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DESIGNERS NOTE: If you do not have stepped pliers with a 2.7mm tip, you may use your round nose pliers. Mark your wire inch from each end, using a permanent marker, and roll your loop to the mark. This should yield a loop that has an outside measurement of 7/32nds of an inch (or 5.5mm) at the widest point of the loop.

DESIGNERS NOTE: If you plan to make numerous rings, you can mark your pliers with a permanent marker at the point where this size loop fits snugly. Use your round nose or chain nose pliers to make the slight bend to center your loop.

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Step 12: Place the looped wire against the mandrel at around size 4 . (if using a dowel or other round mandrel, use a slightly smaller one for this step)

Step 13: Use your thumbs to push the wire around the mandrel until the entire length wraps around the mandrel.

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Step 14: When you turn the mandrel over your ring should look like this round, with the loops bypassing each other in the front. Dont worry of they stick out oddly, well fix that in the next step.

Step 15: Tap with a rawhide or rubber mallet lightly until the circle is formed and smooth. If you dont have a mallet, just smooth the ring as best you can with your fingers.

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Step 16: Slide the ring off the mandrel - it should look something like this.

Step 17: Using your nylon or chain nose pliers bend the loops straight up until they are parallel to each other. First one side and then the other. Step 18: Wiggle till perfect.

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Step 19: Your shank should look like this loops parallel.

Step 20: Place the ring back on the mandrel around the size 6 mark (or on your substitute dowel.) Press the ring tightly around the mandrel and adjust the shank with your fingers until the loops stick up evenly from the mandrel on both sides.

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Step 21: Place the large bead between the loops. Adjust the loops until the bead stays put on its own. If the bead sits snugly between the loops you know your loops are level, parallel and even. If not, tweek them until the bead rests easily between the loops.

Step 22: The bead holes should line up with the holes in the loops.

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Step 23: Cut 6 of 22 gauge wire, clean and straighten. Step 24: Thread the wire through 6mm bead (or 4mm) through loop through 10mm bead (or 8mm) through loop through 6 mm bead (or 4mm) Your ring should look like this. DESIGNERS NOTE: 22g wire was chosen for this step because it is strong enough to hold up to the bumps and bangs this ring might be subjected to. The designer does not recommend using a lighter gauge of wire for this step.

Step 25: Bend the ends of the wire down with your fingers and press them as tightly as possible against the 6mm beads.

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Step 26: Wrap the wire tightly around each side alternating after every 2 wraps. This keeps pressure on the wire and holds the beads tightly in place. DESIGNERS NOTE: Start your wrap on the opposite side of the ring from the loop opening. This will have you wrapping each side in the opposite direction. This is important as it keeps the beads from slipping apart.

Step 27: Keep wrapping, alternating sides, until you have 6 to 8 wraps Step 28: With your fingernails, push the wraps up as close to the loops as possible.

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Step 29: Wrap the remaining wire back toward the loops laying it in on top of the previous wraps. Place the wraps into the grooves created by the first layer of wraps. DESIGNERS NOTE: The second layer of wraps is optional, but it lends stability to the top of the ring and prevents the wraps from slipping down the shank.

Step 30: Clip the ends close to the wrap and press them down tightly with your chain nose pliers. Step 31: Congratulations, you have completed your EZY PZY ring!

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Sizing Chart
Wire Length 10mm Bead 8mm Bead Bypass 12mm flat

23/4

inches

27/8

inches

inches

31/8

inches

31/4

inches

33/8

inches

Size 4 31/4

Size 5 41/2

Size 6 53/4 61/2 61/4

Size 71/4 7 7

Size 83/4 8 8 81/4

Size 91/4 83/4 83/4 91/2

DESIGNERS NOTE: All sizes are approximate as sizing depends completely on how consistent your loops are and the actual size and shape of your beads.

EZY PZY VARIATIONS Bypass Ring - Variation Step 1: Make the shank as before, but this time arrange the loops parallel but off center from each other. Attach beads to each loop and you will have an adjustable bypass style ring.

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Step 2: Use a 22g 2 head pin to secure a 6mm bead on the inside of the loop and a 3mm bead on the outside of the loop and wrap the wire down the shank on the closed side of the loop.

Step 3: One layer of wraps is all that is necessary on this version - the head pin will not be long enough for a double layer.

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Step 4: Repeat on the other side. DESIGNERS NOTE: Bypass rings are adjustable, up to 1 size or so, by wearing them more open or more compressed. Other bead sizes and shapes will yield other ring sizes experiment to find your best size combinations.

EZY PZY DOUBLE SHANK VARIATIONS

DESIGNERS NOTE: This variation can be finished in two ways for two very different looks.

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Step 1: Start with 2 identical shanks measured the same as for the original EZY PZY Ring. Do not center the loops over the long wire for this version. Each loop should look like the letter P.

Step 2: Wrap the shanks together around the mandrel. Flatten them with your fingers or a light tap from a rawhide hammer or rubber mallet against the mandrel.

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Step 3: Check to see that your bead fits snugly between the loops.

Step 4: This time, cut about 9 inches of 22g wire. Leave 6 inches at the center of the opening and wrap down the shank with the other 4 inches. Use painters tape to hold the shanks together if necessary. Lay the long wire in the groove formed by the 2 shanks. Step 5: Thread your bead and wrap down the other side of the shank as far as you like. You may wish to add additional wraps inside the loops to help hold the wire that runs behind them in place. This can be done with a short length of 22g scrap wire 3 wraps or so. You have made EZY PZY Variation number 2.

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Step 1: For variation 3, make 2 shanks as in the above variation and wrap them around the mandrel with your fingers. You will notice that the loops have a tendency to form a V. We will use this V to nestle our bead.

Step 2: Check to see that the bead fits snugly between the loops and make any adjustments this is an 8mm bead. Step 3: Wrap as in variation 2.

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You have now learned 3 variations of the EZY PZY ring. It is easy to come up with more design variations for this ring. You can wrap the shank completely on any version. Playing with the angle of the loops on variations 2 and 3 can yield a variety of looks. You be the designer and see if you can come up with more variations.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. For comments or questions, please go to JewelryLessons.com. Please do not distribute, lend or copy this tutorial. Do not commercially mass produce rings made from this tutorial. Please give credit to Vanilla Bead (Mary Borchert) for this design. Use and view of this content constitutes an agreement to www.JewelryLessons.coms Terms of Use. 2010 Vanilla Bead

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