A TRYST WITH TEMPLES It is often called the city of a thousand temples and the first impression of this cultural

destination comes from its towering temples casting a shadow over endless armies of oldfashioned motor rickshaws, which are still the main mode of transport here, as well as the colorful, chaotic bustle of its streets. Kanchipuram, formerly Conjeevaram, or Kanchi, in Indias southern state of Tamil Nadu is one of the countrys ancient cities which survived the vicissitudes of changing fortunes over the millennia. The sights, sounds and smells make a first-time visitor feel this is a place where centuries co-exist. Nagereshu Kanchi is a reference to the city in the ancient Sanskrit language, meaning Kanchi stood out among cities. Its history can be traced to several centuries before the Christian era. The city finds mentions in 2nd century BC scholar Patanjalis works (his Yoga Sutra guides yoga experts to this day) and also in Sangam literature, the earliest-known Tamil literature which dates back to more than 2,500 years. Kanchi flourished as a center of Hindu, Buddhist and Jain learning. The media of instruction were Sanskrit, Pali, Tamil, and later, Telugu as well. An Indian commentator, Subramaniyam Venkatraman, says, The founder of Zen Buddhism, Bodhidharma, is believed to have been born here and supposed to have gone to China to spread Buddhism and also the martial art of varmakkalai. Xuanzang, the great Chinese traveler, visited the city in the 7th century, and in his memoirs, admired its culture and civilization. Venkataraman notes that Kanchi attained its peak of glory and power as the capital city during the reign of the Pallava dynasty, whose kings ruled from the 3rd-9th centuries. The rulers, besides being an imperial and a maritime power, were also great lovers of arts and architecture and several beautiful temples in and around Kanchi were built under their patronage. The Pallava empire extended from the River Krishna in the north to the River Kaveri in the south and had links with China, Thailand, Fiji and other distant places through the port city of Mamallapuram.

Many great figures were born or lived in this city, including Dandi, author of the Sanskrit classic Dashakumaracharita, written in the 6th or 7th century about the adventures of 10 princes. Another celebrated Sanskrit poet, Bharavi, who wrote the epic poem Kiratarjuniya, (narrating the encounter of a hero and a god disguised as a hunter), also hailed from Kanchi. The city hosted famous Buddhist scholars such as Dignaga (one of the founders of Indian logic), Buddhaghosa, a 5th century scholar, and Dhammapala, a commentator. Kanchipuram is one of the great centers of scholarship historically, says Satya Sivaraman, a filmmaker and journalist. Much of Buddhist thought traveled from here to other parts of Asia. It was also a center of the Jain religion for a long time. Since the 10th century, it has been an important center of Hindu religion with one of the four Shankaracharyas (heads of a Hindu tradition) having his ashram (monastery) in Kanchipuram. For a city with such ancient cultural and intellectual past, Kanchi is strikingly unpretentious. Its temples and sites are scattered, connected by streets and alleys dotted with inexpensive eateries and sari shops, including some of the best in the country. It is also called the Silk City because of its famous hand-woven silk fabrics. Legend has it that many weavers used pure gold thread for that distinctive sheen in the cloth. Kanchipurams most famous export is the silk sari, made using handlooms. Some 5,000 families are said to be engaged in weaving. Locally-produced saris are expensive and those who buy them for important occasions, such as weddings, tend to hand them down to succeeding generations. The citys silk fabrics are noted for their pleasing designs and color combinations, but above all, for their sturdiness and durability. Some Indian costume designers are known to travel to the city to scout for its products. These days, intermediaries have been cutting into the marketing of silk saris. Criticism can often be heard that local producers are losing their grip on the market. Though there are some sales outlets for the saris in Kanchipuram itself, the bulk of the produce is transported to cities such as Chennai, Bengaluru, Mumbai, New Delhi, Kolkata and overseas.

The food is also delicous. The vegetarian restaurant Saravana Bhavan gained such a reputation that besides other parts of India, it was encouraged to open outlets in Kuala Lumpur and the US. Despite the acclaim, the original eatery in Kanchi remains determinedly modest though people from all over India, including the rich and famous, come here for mouth-watering rava dosa (pancakes) and vada (deep-fried lentil cakes). But back to Kanchis history. The Pallavas were followed by the Chola kings, who ruled from the 10th-13th centuries. Then it was part of the Vijayanagar empire from the 14th-17th centuries. Finally, it came under British colonial rule. Today, it is the headquarters of a district also called Kanchipuram. It has a bustling bus stand, a railway station and a government hospital, besides several schools and colleges. Notable among them is the Meenakshi Medical College and Research Institute. It is also a trading center for vegetables, cereals, pulses, textiles, edible oil, flowers, handicraft items, metal ware, and jewelry. A number of movie theatres dot the landscape. The proximity to Chennai has visible influence on the city. While most people in Kanchipuram speak Tamil, the official language of the state, considerable numbers use Telugu and to a lesser extent, Urdu. With such an impressive culture portfolio poetry, religion and craftsmanship the city would have been expected to be imposing, self-assured and arrogant. Instead, there is an air of subdued casualness about everything. One has to scratch the surface to encounter the citys importance. However, it would be a mistake to visit South India and miss out on Kanchipuram. Despite its modesty, it remains one of the greatest ancient cities of India. Songs of the soil

Most of the villages around Kanchipuram do not appear on the Google maps or on most of the road maps published in India. They may be just two hours drive from Kanchipuram, but psychologically, they are far away, living in their own realm and rhythm. Women in colorful saris work in verdant rice fields, some in the shadow of the imposing Vandavasi Hill with its ancient temples. Work is hard and long but they sing and when they see visitors, shout to one another and crack a joke or two. The colors and the jolly scene make for a photographers feast. Most villages in this area are impoverished and people have the additional burden of the deeprooted caste hierarchy to contend with. But the harder life is, the harder people work and play. Villages around Kanchi enthusiastically celebrate numerous festivals. Statues of mythological heroes abound. Many dwellings are built near the statue of the transsexual Aravan a character in the epic Mahabharata. The stone statue is headless the head is re-attached only during the festival, and removed again on the 10th day of the event. Statues of Mohandas Gandhi, the father of the nation, abound in the towns and villages. This part of India is renowned for its itinerant theatre groups, which are accompanied by traditional musicians One of the most famous performing groups is the Thanthoni Amman Terukoothu Troupe of Akkur village. All actors, even those playing female characters, are male. The message of the plays can be cultural or social, shaped by current events. The music mainly comes from a reed instrument (muka veenai), percussion (mridangam), harmonium (potti) and cymbals (thalam). The musicians may look earthy but they produce marvelous and highly sophisticated music.

Performances take place at night, sometimes going on until early hours of the morning. The entire village gathers adults, elderly and children alike. No matter how brilliant, the performance is often a pretext for gathering and exchanging gossip.. On the night the theatre comes to the village, everyone seems to be equal, at least for the duration of the performance. They come together to witness the show and hear the sounds of cymbals and reeds and momentarily forget their worries amid the illumination and unexpected brightness. Kanchipuram This article is about the municipality in Tamil Nadu, India. For its namesake district, see Kanchipuram district. Kanchipuram Temple city

Clockwise

from

top: Temple,

Kailasanathar Kamakshi

temple, Amman

Ekambareswarar

Temple, a silk weaver in the city and Varadarajar Perumal Temple

Kanchipuram Coordinates: 1249N 7943E 7943E / / 12.82N 12.82N

79.71ECoordinates: 79.71E Country State District Population (2001) Total Languages Official Time zone

1249N

India Tamil Nadu Kanchipuram

153,140

Tamil IST (UTC+5:30)

PIN Telephone code Vehicle registration Website Kanchipuram a (

631501-631503 044 TN 21 kanchi.tn.nic.in ) otherwise known as Kanchi (previously romanized as Kci-

pura, Conjevaram)[1] is a city in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu, 72 km (45 mi) from Chennai the capital of Tamil Nadu. The city covers an area of 11.605 km2 (4.481 sq mi) and had a population of 153,140 in 2001.[2] It is the administrative headquarters of Kanchipuram District. Kanchipuram is well-connected by road and rail. Chennai International Airport is the nearest domestic and international airport to the city. Located on the banks of the Vegavathy River, Kanchipuram has been ruled by the Pallavas, the Medieval Cholas, the Later Cholas, the Later Pandyas, the Vijayanagar Empire, the Carnatic kingdom, and the British. The city's historical monuments include the Kailasanathar Temple and the Vaikunta Perumal Temple. Historically, Kanchipuram was a centre of education advanced education for Jainism and Buddhism between the 1st and 5th centuries.[5] In Hindu theology, Kanchipuram is one of the seven Indian cities in which to reach final attainment, and has the Varadharaja Perumal Temple, Ekambareswarar Temple, Kamakshi Amman Temple, and Kumara Kottam major Hindu temples. The city is a holy pilgrimage site for both Saivites and Vaishnavites. Of the 108 holy temples of the Hindu god Vishnu, 14 are located in Kanchipuram. The city is well known for its hand woven silk sarees and most of the city's workforce is involved in the weaving industry.[6] Kanchipuram is administered by a Special grade municipality constituted in 1947. It is the headquarters of the Kanchi matha, a Hindu monastic institution believed to have been founded by the Hindu saint and commentator Adi Sankaracharya, and was the capital city of the Pallava Kingdom between the 4th to 9th centuries. Etymology
[3]

and was

known as the ghatikasthanam, or "place of learning".[4] The city was also a religious centre of

According to legend, the name Kanchi is derived from Ka referring to the Hindu god Brahma and anchi, referring to his worship of Hindu god Vishnu at this place.[7] The earliest inscription from the Maurya period (325185 BCE) denote the city as Kanchipuram, where King Visnugopa was defeated by Samudragupta Maurya (320298 BCE).[8]Patanjali(150 BCE or 2nd c. BCE) refers to the city in his Mahabhasya as Kanchipuraka.[8] The city was referred to by various Tamil names like Kanchi, Kanchipedu and Sanskrit names like Kanchipuram.[9][8] The Pallava inscriptions from (250355) and the inscriptions of the Chalukya dynasty refers the city as Kanchipura.[8]Jaina Kanchi refers to the area around Tiruparutti Kundram.[8] During the British rule, the city was known as Conjeevaram and later as Kanchipuram. The municipal administration was renamed Kancheepuram, while the district retains the name Kanchipuram.[citation needed] History See also: Kanchipuram in the pre-Pallava period

Sculptures inside Kanchipuram Kailasanathar Temple the oldest existing temple in the city Kanchipuram Timeline 200 400 600 800 1000

 1200 1400 1600 1800 2000 Pallavas Cholas Vijayanagara Empire Arcot Rulers British Independent India An approximate time-scale of Kanchipuram rulers. While it is widely accepted that Kanchipuram had served as an Early Chola capital,[10][11] the claim has been contested by Indian historian P. T. Srinivasa Iyengar who wrote that the Tamil culture of the Sangam period did not spread through the Kanchipuram district, and cites the Sanskritic origins of its name in support of his claim.[12] The earliest references to Kanchipuram are found in the books of the Sanskrit grammarian Patanjali, who lived between the 3rd and 2nd centuries BCE.[12] The city is believed to have been part of the mythical Dravida Kingdom of the Mahabharatha,[12] and was described as "the best among cities" (Sanskrit: Nagareshu Kanchi) by the 4th century Sanskrit poet, Kalidasa.[13] Kanchipuram grew in importance when the Pallavas of southern Andhra Pradesh, wary of constant invasions from the north, moved their capital south to the city in the 6th century.[14][15] The Pallavas fortified the city with ramparts, wide moats, well-laid-out roads, and artistic temples. During the reign of the Pallava King Mahendravarman I, the Chalukya King Pulakesin II (610642) invaded the Pallava kingdom as far as the Kaveri River. The Pallavas successfully

defended Kanchipuram and foiled repeated attempts to capture the city.[16] A second invasion ended disastrously for Pulakesin II, who was forced to retreat to his capital Vatapi which was besieged and Pulakesin II was killed by Narasimhavarman I (630668), son of Mahendravarman I (600630), at the Battle of Vatapi.[17][16] Under the Pallavas, Kanchipuram flourished as a centre of Hindu and Buddhist learning. King Narasimhavarman II built the city's important Hindu temples, the Kanchi Kailasanathar Temple, the Varadharaja Perumal Temple and the Iravatanesvara Temple.[18]Xuanzang, a Chinese traveller who visited Kanchipuram in 640, recorded that the city was 6 miles (9.7 km) in circumference and that its people were renowned for their bravery, piety, love of justice, and veneration for learning.[15][19] The Medieval Chola king Aditya I conquered the Pallava kingdom, including Kanchipuram, after defeating the Pallava ruler Aparajitavarman (880897) in about 890.[20] Under the Cholas, the city was the headquarters of the northern viceroyalty.[21] The province was renamed "Jayamkonda Cholamandalam" during the reign of King Raja Raja Chola I (9851014),[22][23] who constructed the Karchapeswarar Temple and renovated the Kamakshi Amman Temple.[23] His son, Rajendra Chola I (101244) constructed the Yathothkari Perumal Temple.[24] According to the Siddhantasaravali of Trilocana Sivacharya, Rajendra Chola I brought a band of Saivas with him on his return from the Chola expedition to North India and settled them in Kanchipuram.[25] In about 1218, the Pandya king Maravarman Sundara Pandyan (12161238) invaded the Chola country, making deep inroads into the kingdom which was saved by the intervention of the Hoysala king Vira Narasimha II (12201235), who fought on the side of the Chola king Kulothunga Chola III.[26][27] Inscriptions indicate the presence of a powerful Hoysala garrison in Kanchipuram, which remained in the city until about 1230.[28]Shortly afterwards, Kanchipuram was conquered by the Telugu Cholas, from whom Jatavarman Sundara Pandyan I took the city in 1258.[29] The city remained with the Pandyas until 1311 when the Sambuvarayars declared independence, taking advantage of the anarchy caused by Malik Kafur's invasion.[22][30] After short spells of occupation by Ravivarman Kulasekhara of Venad in 13131314 and the Kakatiya ruler Prataparudra, Kanchipuram was conquered by the Vijayanagar general Kumara Kampana, who defeated the Sambuvarayars in 1361.[31]

The Battle of Pollilur, fought near Kanchipuram in 1780 The Vijayanagar Empire ruled Kanchipuram from 1361 to 1645.[31] The earliest inscriptions attesting to Vijayanagar rule are those of Kumara Kampanna from 1364 and 1367, which were found in the precincts of the Kailasanathar Temple and Varadaraja Perumal Temple respectively.[31] His inscriptions record the re-institution of Hindu rituals in the Kailasanathar Temple that had been abandoned during the Muslim invasions.[31] Inscriptions of the Vijayanagar kings Harihara II, Deva Raya II, Krishna Deva Raya, Achyuta Deva Raya, Sriranga I, and Venkata II are found within the city.[31] Harihara II endowed grants in favour of the Varadaraja Perumal Temple.[31]In the 15th century, Kanchipuram was invaded by the Velama Nayaks in 1437, the Gajapati kingdom in 14631465 and 147475 and the Bahmani Sultanate in about 1480.[31] A 1467 inscription of Virupaksha Raya II mentions a cantonment in the vicinity of Kanchipuram.[31] In 1486, Saluva Narasimha Deva Raya, the governor of the Kanchipuram region, overthrew the Sangama Dynasty of Vijayanagar and founded the Saluva Dynasty.[31] Like most of his predecessors, Narasimha donated generously to the Varadaraja Perumal Temple.[31] Kanchipuram was visited twice by the Vijayanagar king Krishna Deva Raya, considered to be the greatest of the Vijayanagar rulers, and 16 inscriptions of his time are found in the Varadaraja Perumal Temple.[31] The inscriptions in four languages Tamil, Telugu, Kannada, and Sanskrit record the genealogy of the Tuluva kings and their contributions, along with those of their nobles, towards the upkeep of the shrine.[31] His successor, Achyuta Deva Raya, reportedly had himself weighed against pearls in Kanchipuram and distributed the pearls amongst the poor.[31] Throughout the second half of the 16th and first half of the 17th centuries, the Aravidu Dynasty tried to maintain a semblance of authority in the southern parts after losing their northern territories in the Battle of Talikota.[31]Venkata II (15861614) tried to revive the Vijayanagar Empire, but the kingdom relapsed into confusion after his death and rapidly fell apart after the Vijayanagar king Sriranga III's defeat by the Golconda and Bijapur sultanates in 1646.[31]

After the fall of the Vijayanagar Empire, Kanchipuram endured over two decades of political turmoil.[31] The Golconda Sultanate gained control of the city in 1672, but lost it to Bijapur three years later.[31] In 1676, Shivaji arrived in Kanchipuram at the invitation of the Golconda Sultanate in order to drive out the Bijapur forces.[31] His campaign was successful and Kanchipuram was held by the Golconda Sultanate until its conquest by the Mughal Empire led by Aurangazeb in October 1687.[31]In the course of their southern campaign, the Mughals defeated the Marathas under Sambhaji, the elder son of Shivaji, in a battle near Kanchipuram in 1688[31] which caused considerable damage to the city but cemented Mughal rule.
[31]

Soon after,

the priests at the Varadaraja Perumal, Ekambareshwarar and Kamakshi Amman temples, mindful of Aurangazeb's reputation for iconoclasm, transported the idols to southern Tamil Nadu and did not restore them until after Aurangazeb's death in 1707.[31] Under the Mughals, Kanchipuram was part of the viceroyalty of the Carnatic which, in the early 1700s, began to function independently, retaining only a nominal acknowledgement of Mughal rule.[31] The Marathas invaded Kanchipuram during the Carnatic period in 1724 and 1740, and the Nizam of Hyderabad in 1742. Kanchipuram was a battlefront for the British East India Company in the Carnatic Wars against the French East India Company and in the Anglo-Mysore Wars with the Sultanate of Mysore.[32]The popular 1780 Battle of Pollilur of the Second Anglo-Mysore War, known for the use of rockets by Hyder Ali of Mysore, was fought in the village of Pullalur near Kanchipuram.[citation needed] In 1763, the British East India Company assumed indirect control from the Nawab of the Carnatic over the erstwhile Chingleput District, comprising the present-day Kanchipuram and Tiruvallur districts, in order to defray the expenses of the Carnatic wars.[31] The Company brought the territory under their direct control during the Second Anglo-Mysore War, and the Collectorate of Chingleput was created in 1794.[31] The district was split into two in 1997 and Kanchipuram made the capital of the newly created Kanchipuram district.[31] Geography Kanchipuram is located at 1259N 7943E / 12.98N 79.71E, 72 km (45 mi) south-west of Chennai on the banks of the Vegavathi River, a tributary of the Palar River.[33] The city covers an area of 11.6 km2 (4.5 sq mi) and has an elevation of 83.2 m (273 ft) above sea level.[33]The land

around Kanchipuram is flat and slopes towards the south[33] and east.[34] The soil in the region is mostly clay,[34] with some loam, clay, and sand, which are suitable for use in construction.[33] The Chingleput District Manual (1879) describes the region's soils as "highly inferior" and "highly stony or mixed with lime, gravel, soda and laterite".[35] It has been postulated that the granite required for the Varadaraja Perumal Temple might have been obtained from the Sivaram Hills located 10 miles east of Kanchipuram.[34] The area is classified as a Seismic Zone II region,[36] and earthquakes of up to magnitude 6 on the Richter Scale may be expected.[37] Ground water is the major source of water supplies used for irrigation the block of Kanchipuram has 24 canals, 2809 tanks, 1878 tube wells and 3206 ordinary wells.[38] The area is rich in medicinal plants, and historic inscriptions mention the medicinal value.[39] Dimeria acutipes and cyondon barberi are plants found only in Kanchipuram and Chennai.[40] Climate Kanchipuram generally experiences hot and humid climatic conditions throughout the year.[41] Temperatures reache an average maximum of 37.5 C (99.5 F) between April and July, and an average minimum of 20.5 C (68.9 F) between December and February.[41] The daytime heat during summer can be oppressive; temperatures can reach 43 C (109 F).[41] Relative humidities of between 58% and 84% prevail throughout the year.[41] The humidity reaches its peak during the morning and is lowest in the evening. Relative humidity is higher between November and January and is lowest throughout June.[41] The city receives an average of 1064 mm of rainfall annually, 68% of which falls during the northeast monsoon.[33] Most of the precipitation occurs in the form of cyclonic storms caused by depressions in the Bay of Bengal during the northeast monsoon.[41] The prevailing wind direction is south-westerly in the morning and south-easterly in the evening.[42] Government and politics

Kanchipuram Loksabha constituency Municipality Officials Chairman T. Mythili.[43]

Commissioner N. Vimala[44] Vice Chairman R.T. Sekar[45]

Elected Members Member Legislative Assembly Member Parliament of V. Somasundaram[46] of P. Viswanathan[47]

The Kanchipuram municipality was officially constituted in 1866,[15] covering 7.68 km2 (2.97 sq mi), and its affairs were administered by a municipal committee. It was upgraded to a grade I municipality in 1947, selection grade municipality in 1983 and special grade municipality in 2008.[48][49] As of 2011 the municipality occupies 11.6 km2 (4.5 sq mi), has 51 wards and is the biggest municipality in Kanchipuram district.[49] The functions of the municipality are devolved into six departments: General, Engineering, Revenue, Public Health, Town Planning and the Computer Wing,[50] all of which are under the control of a Municipal Commissioner, who is the supreme executive head.[50] The legislative powers are vested in a body of 51 members, each

representing one ward. The legislative body is headed by an elected Chairperson who is assisted by a Deputy Chairperson.[51] Kanchipuram comes under the Kanchipuram state assembly constituency. From the state delimitation after 1967, seven of the ten elections held between 1971 and 2011 were won by the Anna Dravida Muneetra Kazhagam (ADMK).[52]Dravida Munnetra Kazhagam (DMK) won the seat during the 1971 and 1989 elections and its ally Pattali Makkal Katchi won the seat during the 2006 elections.[52] The current member of the legislative assembly is V. Somasundaram from the ADMK party.[52][46] Kanchipuram Lok Sabha constituency is a newly formed constituency of the Parliament of India after the 2008 delimitation.[53] The constituency originally existed for the 1951 election, and was formed in 2008 after merging the assembly segments of Chengalpattu, Thiruporur, Madurantakam (SC), Uthiramerur and Kanchipuram, which were part of the now defunct Chengalpattu constituency, and Alandur, which was part of the Chennai South constituency. This constituency is reserved for Scheduled Castes (SC) candidates. P. Viswanathan from the Congress party is the current Member of Parliament for the constituency.[52]Indian writer, politician and founder of the DMK, C. N. Annadurai, was born and raised in Kanchipuram.[54] He was the first member of a Dravidian party to hold that post and was the first non-Congress leader to form a majority government in post-colonial India.[55][56] Policing in the city is provided by the Kanchipuram sub-division of the Tamil Nadu Police headed by a Deputy Superintendent of Police.[57] The force's special units include prohibition enforcement, district crime, social justice and human rights, district crime records and special branch that operate at the district level police division, which is headed by a Superintendent of Police.[57] Demographics

A house depicting old living style of Kanchipuram Historical population Year Pop. 1871 1881 1891 1901 1911 1921 1931 1941 1951 1961 1971 1981 37,275 37,312 42,547 46,164 53,864 61,376 65,258 74,685 84,810 92,714 110,657 131,013 % +0.1% +14.0% +8.5% +16.7% +13.9% +6.3% +14.4% +13.6% +9.3% +19.4% +18.4%

1991 2001 2011

144,955 153,140 164,265

+10.6% +5.6% +7.3%

Sources:

1871: [58] 1901 1991:[59] 2001:[2] 2011:[60]

During the rule of King Narasimha Varma in the 7th century, the city covered about 10 square kilometres (3.9 sq mi) and had a population of 10,000.[61] The population increased to 13,000 in subsequent years and the city developed cross patterned links with rectangular streets.[62] The settlements in the city were mostly caste based.[62] During the period of Nandivarma Pallavan II, houses were built on raised platforms and burnt bricks.[62] The concepts of the verandah in the front yard, garden in the backyard, ventilation facilities and drainage of rainwater were all introduced for the first time.[62] The centre of the city was occupied by Brahmins, while the Tiruvekka temple and houses of agricultural labourers were situated outside the city.[63] There were provisions in the city's outskirts for training the cavalry and infantry.[63] During the Chola era, Kanchipuram was not the capital, but the kings had a palace in the city and lot of development was extended eastwards.[62] During the Vijayanagara period, the population rose to 25,000.[62] There were no notable additions to the city's infrastructure during British rule.[62] The British census of 1901 recorded that Kanchipuram had a population of 46,164, consisting of 44,684 Hindus, 1,313 Muslims, 49 Christians and 118 Jains.[15] As of 2011, provisional figures b showed that Kanchipuram had a population of 164,265; 81,987 were male and 82,275 were female, and that the city covered 36.14 km2 (13.95 sq mi).[60][64] The 2001 Indian census showed that Kanchipuram had a population of 153,140 at a density of 13,428

persons per km2.[60] Males constitute 50.37% of the population and females 49.63%.[2] Kanchipuram had an average literacy rate of 74.8% in 2001, which was higher than the national average of 59.5%. Male literacy was 81%, and female literacy was 69%.[60] 10% of the city population is under 6 years of age. About 8 lakh (800,000) pilgrims visit the city every year as of 2001.[65] Kanchipuram has 416 hectares (1,030 acres) of residential properties, mostly around the temples. The commercial area covers 62 hectares (150 acres), constituting 6.58% of the city. Industrial developments occupy around 65 hectares (160 acres), where most of the handloom spinning, silk weaving, dyeing and rice production units are located. 89.06 hectares (220.1 acres) are used for transport and communications infrastructure, including bus stands, roads, streets and railways lines.[66] Economy

Silk Sari Weaving at Kanchipuram The major occupations of Kanchipuram are silk sari weaving and agriculture.[15] As of 2008, an estimated 5,000 families were involved in sari production.[67] The main industries are cotton production, light machinery and electrical goods manufacturing, and food processing.[68] There are 25 silk and cotton yarn industries, 60 dyeing units, 50 rice mills and 42 other industries in the Kanchipuram.[69] Another important occupation is tourism and service related segments like hotels, restaurants and local transportation.[69]

Agriculture in Kanchipuram Kanchipuram is a traditional centre of silk weaving and handloom industries for producing Kanchipuram Saris. The industry is worth 100 cr (US$18.18 million), but the weaving community suffers from poor marketing techniques and duplicate market players.[67] In 2005, "Kanchipuram Silk Sarees" received the Geographical Indication tag, the first product in India to carry this label.[70][71] The silk trade in Kanchipuram began when King Raja Raja Chola I (985 1014) invited weavers to migrate to Kanchi.[67] The craft increased with the mass migration from Andhra Pradesh in the 15th century during the Vijayanagara rule.[67] The city was razed during the French siege of 1757, but weaving re-emerged in the late 18th century.[67] All major nationalized banks such as State Bank of India, Indian Bank, Canara Bank, Punjab National Bank, Dena Bank and private banks like ICICI Bank have branches in Kanchipuram.[72] All these banks have their Automated teller machines located in various parts of the city.[72] Human rights Kanchipuram has a rate than the national average of child labour and bonded labour.[73][74] The local administration is accused of aiding child labour by opening night schools in Kanchipuram from 1999.[73] There is an estimated 40,000 to 50,000 child workers in Kanchipuram compared to 85,000 in the same industry in Varanasi.[74] Children are commonly traded for sums of between 10,000 and 15,000 (200 300$) and there are cases where whole families are held in bondage.[74] Child labour is prohibited in India by the Children (Pledging of Labour) Act and Child Labour (Prohibition and Regulation) Act, but these laws are not strictly enforced.[75] Transport, communication and utility services

An intercity state bus to Kanchipuram Kanchipuram is most easily accessible by road. The Chennai Bangalore National Highway, NH 4 passes the outskirts of the city.[76] Daily bus services are provided by the Tamil Nadu State Transport Corporation to and from Chennai, Bangalore, Villupuram, Tirupathi, Thiruthani, Tiruvannamalai, Vellore, Salem, Coimbatore and Pondicherry.[77] There are two major bus routes to Chennai, one connecting via Guindy and the other via Tambaram.[77] Local bus services are provided by The Villupuram division of Tamil Nadu State Transport Corporation.[78] As of 2006, there were a total of 403 buses for 191 routes operated out of the city.[79] The city is also connected the railway network. The Chengalpet Arakkonam railway line passes through Kanchipuram and travellers can access services to those destinations..[80] Daily trains are provided to Pondicherry and Tirupathi, and there is a weekly express train to Madurai and a bi-weekly express train to Nagercoil.[81] Two passenger trains from both sides of Chengalpattu and Arakkonam pass via Kanchipuram.[77][81] The nearest domestic as well as international airport is Chennai International Airport, located at a distance of 72 km from the city. Telephone and broadband internet services are provided by Bharat Sanchar Nigam Limited (BSNL), India's state-owned telecom and internet services provider.[82] Electricity supply is regulated and distributed by the Tamil Nadu Electricity Board (TNEB).[83] Water supply is provided by the Kanchipuram municipality; supplies are drawn from subterranean springs of Vegavati river.[15] The head works is located at Orikkai, Thiruparkadal and St. Vegavathy, and distributed through overhead tanks with a total capacity of 9.8 litres (2.2 imperial gallons).[84] About 55 tonnes of solid waste are collected from the city daily at five collection points covering the whole of the city.[85] The sewage system in the city was implemented in 1975; Kanchipuram

was identified as one of the hyper endemic cities in 1970. Underground drainage covers 82% of roads in the city, and is divided into east and west zones for internal administration.[86] Education See also: List of schools and colleges in Kancheepuram Kanchipuram is traditionally a centre of religious education for the Hindu,[3][4] Jainism[5] and Buddhism faiths.[5]. The Buddhist monasteries acted as nucleus of the Buddhist educational system. With the gradual resurrection of Hinduism during the reign of Mahendra Varman I, the Hindu educational system gained prominence with Sanskrit emerging as the official language.[5] As of 2011 Kanchipuram has 49 registered schools, 16 of which are run by the city municipality.[87] The district administration opened night schools for educating children employed in the silk weaving industry as of December 2001, these schools together were educating 127 people and 260 registered students from September 1999.[73]Larsen and Tubro inaugurated the first rail construction training centre in India at Kanchipuram on May 24, 2012, that can train 300 technicians and 180 middle level managers and engineers each year.[88] Sri Chandrasekharendra Saraswathi Viswa Mahavidyalaya and Chettinad Academy of Research and Education (CARE) are the two Deemed universities present in Kanchipuram.[89] Kanchipuram is home to one of the four Indian Institute of Information of Technology, a public private partnered institute, offering under graduate and post graduate programs in information technology.[90] The city has two medical colleges Arignar Anna Memorial Cancer Institute and Hospital, established in 1969 is operated by the Department of Health, Government of Tamil Nadu
[91]

and the privately owned Meenakshi Medical College.[92] The city has 6 engineering

colleges[93], 3 polytechnic institutes and 6 arts and science colleges.[94] Religion Buddhism

Bodhidharma is believed to have spread Zen school of Buddhism from India to China Buddhism is believed to have flourished in Kanchipuram between the 1st and 5th centuries. [95] Some notable Buddhists associated with Kanchipuram are ryadeva (23rd centuries) a successor of Ngrjuna of Nalanda University, Dignaga and the Pali commentators Buddhaghosa and Dhammapala.[96] According to a popular tradition, Bodhidharma, a 5th 6th century Buddhist monk and founder of Shaolin Kung Fu was the third son of a Pallava king from Kanchipuram.[97] However, other traditions ascribe his origins to other places in Asia.[98] Jainism It is thought that Jainism was introduced into Kanchipuram by Kunda Kundacharya (1st century).[96] Jainism spread to the city after the defeat of Buddhists by Akalanka (3rd century) after prolonged debates. Kalbhras, the rulers of Kanchipuram before the Pallavas, followed Jainism which gained popularity from royal patronage.[96] The Pallava kings, Simhavishnu, Mahendra Varman and Simhavarman (550560) followed Jainism, until the advent of Nayanmars and Azhwars during the 6th and 7th centuries.[96]Mahendravarman I converted from Jainism to Hinduism under the influence of the Naynamar, Appar, was the turning point in the religious geography.[96] The two sects of Hinduism, Saivism and Vaishnavism were revived under the influence of Adi Sankara and Ramanuja respectively.[63][99] Later Cholas and Vijayanagara kings tolerated Jainism, and the religion was still practiced in in Kanchi.[96] Trilokyanatha/Chandraprabha temple is a twin Jain temple that has inscriptions from Pallava king, Narasimhavarman II and the Chola kings Rajendra Chola I, Kulothunga Chola I and Vikrama Chola, and the Kanarese inscriptions of Krishnadevaraya. The temple is maintained by Tamil Nadu archaeological department.[100]

Hinduism Main article: List of temples in Kanchipuram

Ekambareswarar temple the largest temple in the city Hindus regard Kanchipuram to be one of the seven holiest cities in India. According to Hinduism, a ketra is a sacred ground, a field of active power, and a place where final attainment, or moksha, can be obtained. The Garuda Purana says that seven cities, including Kanchipuram are providers of moksha.[63] The city is considered a pilgrimage site for both Saivites and Vaishnavites.[63] Ekambareswarar Temple in northern Kanchipuram, dedicated to Shiva, is the largest temple in the city.[101] Its gateway tower, or gopuram, is 59 metres (194 ft) tall, making it one the tallest temple towers in India.[102] The temple is one of five called Pancha Bhoota Stalams, which represent the manifestation of the five prime elements of nature; land, water, air, sky, and fire.[103] Ekambareswarar temple temple represents earth.[103] Kailasanathar Temple, dedicated to Shiva and built by the Pallavas, is the oldest Hindu temple in existence and is declared an archaeological monument by the Archaeological Survey of India. It has a series of cells with sculptures inside.[104] In the Kamakshi Amman Temple, goddess Parvati is depicted in the form of a yantra, Chakra or peetam (basement). In this temple, the yantra is placed in front of the deity.[105] Adi Sankara is closely associated with this temple and is believed to have established the Kanchi matha after this temple.[106]

Muktheeswarar Temple, built by Nandivarman Pallava II (720796)[107] and Iravatanesvara Temple built by Narasimhavarman Pallava II (720728) are the other Shiva temples from the Pallava period. Kachi Metrali Karchapeswarar Temple,[104] Onakanthan Tali,[107] Kachi Anekatangapadam,[107] Kuranganilmuttam,[108] and Karaithirunathar Temple in Tirukalimedu are the Shiva temples in the city reverred in Tevaram, the Tamil Saiva canonical work of the 7th-8th century.

Sculpted pillars and stone chain in Varadarajar temple Kumarakottam Temple, dedicated to Muruga, is located between the Ekambareswarar temple and Kamakshi Amman temple, leading to the cult of Somaskanda (Skanda, the child between Shiva and Parvati). Kandapuranam, the Tamil religious work on Muruga, translated from Sanskrit Skandapurana, was composed in 1625 by Kachiappa Shivacharya in the temple.[109] Varadharaja Perumal Temple, dedicated to Vishnu and covering 23 acres (93,000 m2), is the largest Vishnu temple in Kanchipuram. It was built by the Cholas in 1053 and was expanded during the reigns of Kulottunga Chola I (10791120) and Vikrama Chola (11181135). It is one of the divyadesams, the 108 holy abodes of Vishnu. The temple features carved lizards, one platted with gold and another with silver, over the sanctum.[110]Clive of India is said to have presented an emerald necklace to the temple. It is called the Clive Makarakandi and is still used to decorate the deity on ceremonial occasions.[31] Tiru Parameswara Vinnagaram is the birthplace of the azhwar saint, Poigai Alvar.[111] The central shrine has a three-tier shrine, one over the other, with Vishnu depicted in each of them.[111] The corridor around the sanctum has a series of sculptures depicting the Pallava rule

and conquest.[111] It is the oldest Vishnu temple in the city and was built by the Pallava king Paramesvaravarman II (728731).[111] Ashtabujakaram, Tiruvekkaa, Tiruththanka, Tiruvelukkai, Ulagalantha Perumal Temple, Tiru pavla vannam, Pandava Thoothar Perumal Temple are among the divyadesam, the 108 famous temples of Vishnu in the city.[112] There are a five other divyadesams, three inside the Ulagalantha Perumal temple, one each in Kamakshi Amman Temple and Ekambareswarar Temple.[113] The Kanchi Matha is a Hindu monastic institution, whose official history states that it was founded by Adi Sankara of Kaladi, tracing its history back to the fifth century BCE.[114][115][116] A related claim is that Adi Sankara came to Kanchipuram, and that he established the Kanchi mutt named "Dakshina Moolamnaya Sarvagnya Sri Kanchi Kamakoti Peetam" in a position of supremacy, namely Sarvagnya Peetha, over the other mathas (religious institutions) of the subcontinent, before his death there.[116][117] Other historical accounts state that the mutt was established probably in the 18th century in Kumbakonam, as a branch of the Sringeri Matha, and that it declared itself independent.[115] Another Mutt which was famous in ancient times was the Upanishad Bramham Mutt, located near Kailasanathar temple, Kanchipuram. It has the Mahasamadhi of Upanishad Bramham, a saint who wrote commentaries on all the major upanishads in Hinduism. It is said tha the great Sage, Sadasiva Brahmendra took to sanyasa at this mutt. Other religions The city has two mosques; one near the Ekambareswarar temple was built during the rule of Nawab of Arcot in the 17th century, and another near the Vaikunta Perumal temple shares a common tank with the Hindu temple. Muslims take part in the festivals of the Varadarajaswamy temple.[118] Christ Church is the oldest Christian church in the city. It was built by a British man named Mclean in 1921. The church is built in Scottish style brick structure with arches and pillars.[118] A restoration feat

T.S. SUBRAMANIAN The Archaeological Survey of India restores to their original grandeur the vimanas of three Pallava temples in Kancheepuram. ARCHAEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA

The Kailasanatha temple in Kancheepuram with the restored vimana and the row of devakulikas, at left. IN a massive conservation effort, the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) has restored to their original grandeur the vimanas (structures built over the sanctum sanctorum) of three Pallavaperiod temples in Kancheepuram, about 80 km from Chennai. Two of these the Kailasanatha temple and the Iravatanesvara temple were built by Narasimhavarman II, who ruled between A.D. 700 and 728. He also built the famed Shore Temple at Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram) near Chennai. The third, the Vaikunta Perumal temple, was built by Nandivarman II (circa A.D. 736-769) and is of great historical and archaeological interest. All the three temples are built of sandstone. The Kailasanatha temple is the biggest sandstone temple in the world, according to K.T. Narasimhan, Superintending Archaeologist, ASI (Chennai Circle), who led the conservation team which began work in 1999. Its other unique feature is the 58 ``devakulikas'' (mini-shrines) that run round the main temple. They had frescoes that portrayed scenes from the Sivalila and sculptures of Uma Mahesvara, Parvati, Ganapati and Kartikeya, among others. The inscriptions in Pallava grantha on the temple walls include the

various titles of Narasimhavarman II, such as Rajasimhan, Ajiranakanta, Srithara, Ranathira and Kshatriya Simhesvara. K. GAJENDRAN

At the Iravatanesvara temple. The wall of the mantapam, with the lamp niches filled with brickbats allegedly during earlier conservation efforts. Narasimhan said the sculptors fully understood the fragile nature of sandstone, and they placed huge sandstone blocks one on top of the other and then chiselled them into shape. ``The walls of the vimana and the attached shrines are a veritable treasure house of Saivite iconographic forms,'' said K.R. Srinivasan, former Deputy Director-General of the ASI, in an article ``Early Tondainadu Style, c. A.D. 650-800, Pallavas of Kanci, Phase I'', published in the Encyclopaedia of Indian Temple Architecture, South India, Lower Dravidadesa, 200 B.C.-A.D. 1324. The book, edited by Michael W. Meister, was published in 1999 by the American Institute of Indian Studies. States Srinivasan: ``This is the richest of all Pallava shrines in terms of figural decoration. Sculptures occur not only in the main niches... but also on their flanks. They not only are inside the attached cardinal and corner shrines, but also are on each shrine's outer walls... Its vimana, though somewhat squat compared with the Shore Temple, and overly carved with figural ornamentation, is still very impressive.'' Conservation work relating to the vimana of the

Kailasanatha temple involved lifting three shala stones, each weighing several tonnes, which had fallen to the ground a few centuries earlier, and positioning them in their sockets, said Narasimhan. ARCHAEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA

The wall after restoration. The ASI team discovered a sculpture of Vishnu with four hands (chaturbhuja) in the standing position and flanked by rishis (sages) and rishipatnis (spouses of rishis), when it demolished a brick platform built during British rule between two talas (storeys) of the vimana. The fact that Rajasimhan was a staunch Saivite made this an interesting discovery. The platform has been built between the antharatala (that is, vestibule) and the first tala to prevent the collapse of another architectural member called karnakostha. ``Our research showed that the platform was accretionary and unwanted. So it was removed carefully. To our surprise, we exposed many architectural features of the first tala and the beautiful standing Vishnu,'' said Narasimhan. Conservation work on the main vimana, right from the first tala to the stupi (crown) stage, was complete, he added. The inner walls of the sanctum sanctorum were given a coat of lime paste and the Somaskanda panel on the rear wall was restored to its original beauty. In fact, the Somaskanda panel, depicting Siva and Parvati with Karthikeya sitting on Parvati's lap, is the main iconographic

feature of the temples built by Rajasimhan. A small passage around the sanctum sanctorum, which leads to the sorga vasal (door to heaven), was found to be damaged and was restored by strengthening its walls and ceiling. The team uncovered rows of partially hidden sculptures of resting lions, the trademark of Rajasimhan's reign, when 14 buttress walls supporting the long black wall of the 58 devakulikas were pulled down. The buttress walls were erected because it was feared that the devakulikas would collapse. A scientific study showed that the apprehension was incorrect, said Narasimhan. The foundation of the devakulikas was strengthened and the buttress walls were removed ``in one stroke'', exposing the rows of lions. At the Vaikunta Perumal temple, conservation work on the uniquely three-storeyed vimana posed a challenge, according to P. Chandrasekaran, Conservation Assistant, ASI, Kancheepuram sub-circle. Several panels of exquisite sculptures, depicting Vishnu flying on a Garuda, the Narasimha avatar and so on, were restored to their original splendour. The restoration work, which began in the mid-1990s, has been so meticulous that even the ornamentation on the stucco figures on the vimana stand out in bold relief. The Vaikunta Perumal temple is the biggest sandstone temple built in the post-Rajasimha period. It was built by Paramesvaravarman alias Nandivarman II (circa 736-796 A.D.) and is dedicated to Vishnu. Here, Nandivaraman II achieved the ambition of his forefather Narasimhavarman I by building a chaturasra tri-tala (that is, square, three-storeyed) functional vimana to enshrine Vishnu in three forms _ standing, (sthanaka), sitting (asana) and reclining (sayana). The three storeys were formed by a system of three concentric walls forming three concentric squares. Tamil Vaishnavite saint-poets, the Alwars, have praised the temple as Paramesvara Vinnagaram. According to ASI officials, the most significant feature of the temple is the depiction of the historical events that led to Nandivarman II ascending the throne. The events are sculpted in the square panels on the wall of the inner cloister of the temple mantapa. The aswamedha yagna performed by some Pallava kings has been beautifully sculpted a rarity in South Indian art. There is a sculpture of a visiting Chinese pilgrim too. Divisions of the army footmen, elephants and horses are found in the panels.

At the Iravatanesvara temple, while deplastering the inner and outer walls of the temple mantapam the ASI team stumbled on lamp niches, which had been filled with brickbats allegedly during earlier conservation efforts. The niches were found to be in beautiful patterns. K. PICHUMANI

K.T. Narasimhan, Superintending Archaeologist, ASI, Chennai circle. This temple, which is much smaller than the Kailasanatha temple, has been conserved in all aspects the dead plaster on the vimana has been removed, it has been `water-tightened' and the stucco figures on it have been strengthened. The work began last year and was completed in about a year's time. The sculpted image of Dakshinamurthy on the vimana and that of Uma Mahesvara on a rishabha (bull) were also restored. The conservation and restoration work at the temples was done using a paste of lime and fine river sand. The sand was mixed with lime and ground to a fine paste along with gallnut, jaggery, `vilvam' fruit, neem gum and kathazhai (aloe). The Kailasanatha Temple today wears a new look and it has been fenced in. The Nandi in front has been cleaned up and the road leading to the temple is being widened after clearing it of

encroachments. The dilapidated temple tank would be repaired, said Chandrasekaran. Conservation work is also under way in the shrine dedicated to Mahendravarman in front of the main temple. This shrine, with a vimana, was built by Mahendravarman III. Indian Architecture Next Frontier for CONA, Our Soon-to-Launch Research Tool Murtha Baca | September 12, 2012

Kailasanatha temple, Kanchi, Chingleput District, Chennai. View from the northeast. Patron: Rajasimhavarman. Circa 695722 C.E. Granite. Courtesy of the Center for Art and Archaeology, American Institute of Indian Studies

Diagram from the CA&A photo archives pairing an elevation of a Hindu temple with associated architectural terms. Courtesy of the Center for Art and Archaeology, American Institute of Indian Studies.