sadasdasd hen a person has decided to go into the business of raising goats after researching the other factors,

which stand to affect the success of their operation, consideration must be given to containing the animals. Goats are one of the more difficult species of livestock to contain. The natural curiosity and inquisitive nature must be considered. An effective fence that will safely and effectively contain goats in their designated area over the long term is an important factor in fence construction. The costs of construction must be taken into consideration. In most situations the perimeter fences of a property will be of a permanent nature. Division and cross fences lend themselves to adjustable modes of construction. There are many fencing material and construction options available, and some will be mentioned in terms of their effectiveness. Conventional fencing The conventional fencing for goats is a fence constructed of net, woven, or mesh wire. The work skills required to build a suitable net wire fence are greater than those required for other types; however, the expected service life of a net wire fence is longer than that of other types of fencing. Construction cost, are higher due to the materials needed and the time required for construction. Variables to be taken into consideration are materials cost, and construction skills of the producer. Consideration may be given to the availability of local fencing contractors and their rates. Conventional fences are generally permanent so extensive planning needs to go into their route and location prior to starting construction.

Guidelines and materials for constructing conventional fencing Wood, steel pipe, or T-posts may be used for the construction of the corner H-braces, line or stretch braces, and for line posts, respectively. Materials, which are available in the producers home area at the most economical cost, should be considered. Producers may have access to resources such as timber they might harvest for posts, or possibly pipe available for use as fence posts at salvage rates on their property. Staples for attaching wire to wooden posts, and tie wire or pre-formed clips to attach the net to steel posts are also needed. Permanent corner braces should be of the H-brace type of construction. Additional bracing in the form of a jake leg or angle brace may be used for greater strength. A minimum post installation depth of 30 inches is recommended in dirt holes, and a 12 inch minimum post hole depth when building fencing in rock is recommended. When building in rocky areas where digging depth is limited the use of concrete to securely anchor the post is recommended.

Stretch braces will be needed at regular intervals on longer sections of a fence line. A good guideline is to set a brace for each 990 (3 X 330 rolls), or at 1320 (4 X 330 rolls) maximum. On shorter sections of a fence line, the corner braces will provide sufficient strength. Stretch braces of the A brace type of construction can be used. The purpose of a stretch brace is to relieve strain on corner braces on these longer stretches of fencing. As with the corner braces, a minimum post installation depth of 30 inches is recommended in dirt. When building in solid rock, this depth may be reduced to as little as one foot provided the post is securely anchored. Line posts will need to be set at regular intervals in order to support the net wire between the corner braces. They are also needed between the stretch braces on the longer sections of a fence line. Post spacing and the material used for the posts will depend upon the desired strength and purpose of the fence. Wood or pipe line posts set at 60 foot intervals, with T-posts for support set at 15 or 20 foot intervals will be adequate under most conditions. Woven or mesh wire The type of woven or mesh wire to be used in construction, whether regular or high tensile, is another consideration. Regular steel woven wire is of sufficient strength under most conditions. The high tensile woven wire now available, in addition to being stronger, has a thicker galvanized coating. High tensile net wire normally comes with a Class III galvanized coating compared to a Class I for regular steel net wire. In high rainfall areas, areas in close proximity to salt water, or where heavy mineralized soils occur, the additional cost of high tensile net wire may be justified due to its durability. The height of the mesh wire and the spacing of the vertical stay wires are important factors to consider. It is accepted that a fence of 48 in height will contain goats except under extreme circumstances. For horned goats, a 12 vertical stay wire spacing is preferred to a 6 stay wire spacing. The wider spacing allows a goat the opportunity to work its head and free its horns after putting them through the net. The 6 stay wire spacing used in some net wire has the capability catch the horns and trap a goat. Woven wire classification and identification is simple once a producer understands the numbers present on the tag of a roll of wire. As an example consider a tag with the numbers 11-47-6-9. The first number, 11, designates the number of horizontal wires on the net. The second number designates the height of the wire in inches; 47 means the wire is 47 inches tall. The third number designates spacing of the vertical or stay wires. In this example, the 6 means six inch spacing between stay wires. The last number on the tag designates the gauge or thickness of the wire. In this instance 9 means the net is constructed of nine gauge wire. Net wire comes with expansion kinks on each horizontal wire between the vertical wires. Stretching the wire to the point of flattening out of the kinks to approximately 2/3 of their original height provides adequate tension. The purpose of these expansion kinks is to provide for expansion and contraction during periods of cold or hot weather. Tightening of the mesh to the point where these kinks are completely straightened out is not recommended.

8- to 10-strand barbed wire fence Another type of non-electric fence, which may appeal to some producers, is an 8 to 10 strand barbed wire fence. This type of fence uses individual strands of barbed wire spaced in a graduated manner with the bottom strands being closer together than the top strands. The bottom strand is placed 3 inches above ground level. The second strand is placed 4 inches above. The third strand is place 4 more inches up with the fourth strand placed 4 inches above the third. The next two strands (fifth and sixth) are set on 5 inch spacing. The seventh strand is set at 6 inches above the sixth with the top two wires (eighth and ninth) set at 8 inch spacing. This provides a nine-strand barbed wire fence with bottom wire spacing close enough to hold in kid goats and the recommended 47 inches in height. One of the advantages of this type of fence is that barbed wire normally comes in 80-rod rolls whereas net wire comes in 20-rod rolls. One rod equals 16.5 feet meaning the barbed wire rolls are 1320 feet in length and the net wire rolls 330 feet in length. Thus, with barded wire, there are no splices in a quarter mile length. In comparison, three splices will be needed to create a quarter mile (1320) of net wire. Using barbed wire reduces construction time since some wire splices are eliminated. Wire costs normally run less for the multi-strand barbed wire fence than mesh or net wire, but the need to stretch and tie each individual strand remains. Producers again have the option of using wire constructed of either regular or high tensile steel. The high tensile steel barbed wire provides greater strength, and when properly stretched, needs less work to maintain since it does not loosen up and sag over time as will the softer steel wire. The same key construction components used for net or woven wire are needed for barbed wire fences, i.e., strong corner braces, stretch braces, line posts, and support posts between the line posts. These may already be in place along with 3 to 5 strands of existing barbed wire if the property had previously been used for livestock production, typically cattle. This existing fence will serve to further reduce construction cost, as 30 to 50% of the wire needed may already be in place. As a caution, if equine animals are to be housed on the same property with goats, the use of this type of fencing is not recommended. Electric fencing The least expensive and most portable type of fencing used for goats is electric fencing. This type of fencing lends itself particularly well to interior fences. Sturdy corner or stretch braces of similar construction to those used for conventional fencing are essential to bear the tension placed on the wire. Line posts for electric fencing may be placed at longer intervals than other fencing and are often constructed of materials whose cost is considerably less than the T-posts or wood posts used in net wire or multi-strand barbed wire fences. Steel T-posts with insulators or fiberglass rod posts, are the most commonly used line posts. Wooden battens are sometimes used for supporting the wires between the wooden line posts.

When fence portability is a consideration, step-in poly posts are commonly used. Ease of installation and removal for moving fences are two main advantages of these posts. A main reason for using a movable fencing system is to more effectively graze selected areas of a property. The ability to set up a strip or cell grazing system is easier with this type of fencing. Other advantages of a movable fence are the ability to defer grazing on certain sections of a property to allow for re-growth of forage, and to control the concentration of animals in brushy areas to reduce vegetation density. Electric fencing does require regular checks with a voltage meter to be sure that adequate current is flowing through the wires. Heavy vegetation growth contacting the hot wires can interfere with voltage transfer along the electric fence rendering it ineffective. Thus, vegetation control along the fence line is more of a consideration with electric fencing than with the net or barbed wire fences.

Another type of electric fence that serves well in some situations is a roll-up type of electric net fencing that comes with posts in one package. It is primarily used is when a high concentration of animals is needed in heavy grazing situations, or as a temporary holding pen for contract grazers. The cost of this pre-packaged fence is considerably higher than most other types of fence. It does, however, fit situations where portability is of more importance than permanence. Training goats to an electric fence Animals that have not been exposed to electric fencing will require a training period to become familiar with the consequence of touching the electric fence. Shiny objects attached to the wires arouse a goats natural curiosity causing them to investigate the fence. Some producers feed near an electric fence. An additional form of training is moving goats in a slow and gentle manner until they come into contact with the charged wires. In most cases, one or two contacts with an electrified wire will instill respect within the animals and cause future avoidance of this type of fencing. The number of wires used in most electric fences varies from a 3- to a 7-wire system. A 5-wire system creates a more effective barrier for animals unfamiliar with electric fencing. A 3-wire system could be used with trained animals. Once goats have become familiar with electric fencing a single hot wire fence placed approximately 24 inches off the ground may serve as an effective containment barrier for adult animals. For trained goats, electric fences are a cheap and effective alternative to the more expensive net or barbed wire fences. Keep in mind though that an electric fence creates more of a psychological than physical barrier. In times of fear, or when heavily pressured, goats may pass through an electrified fence Converting existing cattle fence to a goat containment fence

Many farms or ranches have existing fences that were designed to hold cattle. These may be either 3- or 5-strand barbed wire or electric fence. The adaptation of these existing fences into a fence that will contain goats is a simple procedure. The beauty of this situation is that the necessary corner braces, line posts, and stretch braces are already in place eliminating much of the labor involved in comparison to new fence construction.

The simple addition of a few more strands of barbed wire at appropriate spacing will quickly solve the problem at less than one-fourth the cost of constructing a new fence. Another alternative is to use stand outs attached to existing fence posts to build a combination conventional/barbed wire and electric fence. Stand outs are V-shaped, heavy gauge wire devices with an insulator at the apex or point of the V. Stand outs may be attached to either wire or posts, and provide a non-grounded means of supporting a strand of electric fencing wire. A producer may also use this add more strands of wire to adapt an existing electric cattle fence to create a goat proof fence.

Equipment needed for fence installation The equipment needed for construction, repair and installation of goat fencing is not an extensive list. The purchase or lease of equipment and tools listed below are recommended as necessary for ease of installation. Special tools are often required when working with high tensile wire. These tools may seem non-essential, but they will often make working with high tensile wire easier and much less frustrating. 1. A powered posthole digger will make digging the holes for corners and brace posts an easier proposition. These holes can be dug by hand but much more sweat equity and time will be required. With a mechanical digger each hole will be the same diameter and depth. A variety of different diameter augers are available making it easy to select one for the size of posts being set. If the fencing is to be constructed in rock, then an air compressor and a rock drill or jackhammer will be needed to excavate the holes. As with the mechanical, auger-type diggers there are differing size bits for rock drills allowing a producer to choose the most appropriate size for the posts to be set. 2. Important hand tools include a good pair of fencing or linesman pliers to cut and twist tie wire and assist in making splices, a hammer to drive fencing staples into wooden posts, and a commercial or homemade T-post driver. Do not use a sledgehammer to drive T-posts into the ground as it can lead to personal injury. 3. If using wooden posts a chainsaw or hand saw will be useful in constructing braces. If working with pipe post, a cutting torch, cutoff wheel, and welding machine are needed equipment. 4. Stretching equipment of some type is needed for net or barbed wire since they do not utilize permanently installed line tensioners. In order to achieve proper wire tension, a stretcher bar of commercial or homemade design is recommended for net wire. A regular two-ton pull Come-along will provide sufficient tension for stretches up to 1320 long. One Come-along will work for barbed wire or single strand high tensile electric fence wire. When stretching net wire, it is recommended that one stretcher be attached at the top and one at the bottom to allow for more even tensioning of the wire.

5. For an electric fence, a good voltmeter ($50 - $60) will be needed to check the voltage and allow for trouble-shooting. Other supplies for an electric fence include, post insulators of some type, and a fence energizer of sufficient strength to maintain adequate current flow. Comparing the output of various energizers on the market is not a simple matter. The key unit for measuring output or shocking power

is called a joule. The other tools needed for electric fence construction would be similar to those required for any other fence.

Feed Storage and Use

One of the primary considerations in meat goat production is where feed will be stored until it is needed. The feed storage facility needs to be weather proof and rodent proof. Feed that has gotten damp and moldy will not be eaten and may lead to attendant health problems. Feed contaminated by rodent pellets is also unlikely to be consumed and may transfer pathogens. The type and size of feed troughs or feeders needed vary depending on size and type of goat operation. Troughs When choosing troughs, one of the most important aspects should be its design. The design should prevent (or at least discourage) goats from climbing, standing, or sleeping in feed troughs to prevent contamination by feces or urine. This contamination is not only unsanitary, it also wastes feed due through the necessity of removing and disposing of dirty feed. Feed discarded due to contamination is money out of your pocket and adds up quickly. Freestanding troughs There are many commercially designed stand-alone feed troughs available. A common aspect of the more successful designs is the presence of a center bar, approximately 8 12 above the edge of the trough, running horizontally down the length of the feed trough. This type of design may be incorporated into homemade feeders. The bar serves the purpose of preventing goats from standing in the trough and provides a convenient handle when moving the trough to another location. Feed trough portability is important because if one feeds in the same location for an extended period of time there will a pawed out wallow around the trough area. A depression will form that holds water, forcing goats to stand in mud while feeding. This unsanitary condition is a prime source of possible bacterial contamination. Regular movement of feed troughs within the enclosure is recommended when feasible. Most commercial troughs available are made of steel with a V bottom design. Producers may construct feeder troughs from larger diameter PVC pipe in the 6 to 8 inner diameter range with a wooden support frame. These round bottom troughs are recommended over flat bottomed troughs due to more efficient draining accumulated moisture. Scrap material of this type is often available from your local municipality at an affordable price following water main construction or replacement. The presence of several small drain holes along the length of the trough, as well as each end is recommended for moisture drainage. Trough lengths should allow for ease of pickup and movement by a single person. An adequate number of troughs should be available to provide sufficient feeding space per animal. A guideline is to provide at least 12 trough space per adult animal. Observation at feeding time will tell if the producer has provided enough trough space. One dominate animal can control one whole side of a trough. It is not recommended using buckets or other containers at ground level for feeding. They are frequently used as bedding places for kids, and are susceptible to fecal contamination. Hanging troughs

In addition to freestanding troughs, others are designed to hang on a gate or fence. These troughs are generally shorter and lighter. They can be easily moved and are useful for smaller herds. They do have a tendency to be knocked off the fence and are prone to wasting feed. Large capacity feeders Large capacity feeders, which operate on gravity feed principle, are another possible feeder type. This type of feeder is available in various sizes with bin capacities ranging from 150 to 3,000 pounds. These are normally used when larger numbers of goats are being fed. Feeders of this type specifically designed for goats should be used. Self-feeders on the market that are designed for cattle often have large enough troughs to allow the goats to enter and lie down in, again leading to feed contamination by goat feces and urine. If this type of self-feeder is to be placed in a fixed location for goats, a concrete skirt extending out a minimum of six feet in front of the trough area is recommended. This will prevent the creation of a wallow in front of the troughs as described earlier. Hay feeders Hay feeders that suspend the hay off the ground are recommended. Feeding hay on the ground leads to excessive waste due to contamination as well as the increased chance of picking up worm larvae and eggs. A suitable hay feeder can easily be constructed by using 4 4 welded wire panels attached to a fence and slanted out at a height appropriate to the size of goats. The panel should be wired solid against the fence across the bottom, with the top laying out further from the fence creating a V type of appearance when viewed from the side. The 4 4 mesh provides adequate size openings for a goats muzzle while at the same time being small enough to effectively hold loose hay with minimum waste. A set of bolt cutters to cut the panels to the desired length, and a set of pliers to tie the panel to an existing fence with baling wire are the only tools required. This V type design has proven to be effective and is one that a producer can construct. It is economical in terms of material and labor requirements. Another option includes a V-type hay holder included as part of a feed trough with a horizontal crossbar running the length of the trough. For this option it would be necessary to cut the 4 4 mesh into two pieces the length of the feed trough and then wire the bottom of the cut panels tightly together below the horizontal bar, lay out the tops into the desired V shape, and then wire or brace the panels to the cross bar. In this situation all hay that fell out of the holder would remain in the trough and reduce waste. When feeding large round bales it is also possible to use this same 4 4 material or a combination-type wire panel to construct a wraparound barrier/container surrounding the bale to help prevent waste. Holes can be cut strategically in the panel allowing goats to put their heads in to eat. As the goats eat the bale, the mesh can be pulled tighter and tighter to allow continued access to the bale. It is also possible to cut panels in half and wire the ends together to act as a hinge that can be pushed together by the goats as the bale is consumed. If access to the large bales is not restricted, considerable waste will occur that in some instances may reach 50%. It is better to stand the bale on its end rather than side. This reduces hay bale surface area that is in contact with the ground and the subsequent loss due to moisture absorption and mold growth. Commercially manufactured hay rings of the type used in cattle operations may be used to help prevent waste. The waste of feed, whether a pellet type of feed or hay, is one of the major obstacles to overcome when feeding goats. Proper trough design and construction of a simple hay feeder as described above can go a long way toward eliminating unnecessary waste and expense.

Mineral feeders Most mineral supplement mixes available for livestock have 10 to 25% salt included as an intake limiter to prevent over consumption. Salt is corrosive to many materials. When considering suitable mineral feeders, the ability to resist corrosion is of utmost importance. Another important aspect in selecting a mineral supplement container is to recognize that for goats a loose mineral is generally preferred over a block type of mineral supplement. Therefore, a trough or container of some type will be needed. Some of the more useful materials used in mineral feeder construction are rubber, wood, plastic, and stainless steel. All of these materials exhibit excellent resistance to the corrosive effects of salt and are durable. As with feed trough design, the holding capacity of a mineral feeder should be adequate for the number of animals in each group. The most common mineral feeders used by goat producers are those that can be hung on a wall or fence at an appropriate height. There are several companies that manufacture these out of plastic, so availability is of little concern. A producer may also manufacture mineral feeders out of PVC pipe material by splitting it lengthwise and putting wooden ends on it. Hooks can then be added to the side for hanging on a fence or wall at the correct height. PVC pipe at least 6 in diameter is recommended with larger sizes better if available. Some trial and error may be needed to determine the correct height when hanging feeders on a fence or gate. This design lends itself well to portability. Another type of mineral feeder that can be constructed out of PVC is one that consists of an upright tube, a Y type or clean out plug PVC connection, and one plug and a cap for sealing the top and bottom of the feeder. Four-inch or greater diameter pipe is recommended for this type of mineral feeder to allow the goats enough room for their muzzle. The Y type of connection is plugged at the bottom with a screw type clean out plug with the Y facing up. An upright tube 3 4 in length is glued into the straight run of the connection. This will leave the other opening of the Y jutting out at an angle. When the upright tube is filled with a granular or loose mineral supplement it will gravity feed down into the Y and the goats can access it through the opening. A cap placed over the top of the tube is recommended. Since loose mineral with salt is subject to moisture absorption, mineral feeders of a trough type design need to be covered when possible with a small overhang or roof. Most commercial mineral feeders available will provide adequate protection from the elements by merit of their design.

Shelter
In times of inclement weather goats will seek out shelter of their liking for protection from the elements. The weather may be too hot, too wet, or too windy for their comfort. Livestock producers have the responsibility to provide humane living conditions for their livestock and this includes appropriate shelter. Shelter should meet the needs of the goats and not the perceived needs of the owner. Although adult goats do not like to be wet, it does little harm to them unless the temperature is cold as well. Newborns and young kids need additional protection from the elements. Shade in hot weather is useful for goats. Shade One of the most often overlooked aspects of pen design is provision of a shade, wind break, or shed for the ability to stay warm and dry. When pens or corrals are used only for short-term confinement of livestock prior to working or sorting them, shelter is not a primary consideration. However, when goats are confined to pens for extended periods of time, shade of some type should be provided to allow goats the ability to utilize it when needed. Trees provide the most economical form of shade and must be located where they provide the needed shade at appropriate times of the day. Those located along a fence line may not provide any shade in the pen during the morning hours or in the afternoon or evening hours. Shade trees located within a pen are most ideal. These trees will need their trunks protected by some type of covering to prevent goats from stripping the lower bark leading to subsequent death of the tree.

Where there are no existing trees to provide shade, a commercially available fabric type of shade material is available from nursery supply houses. This material must be placed out of reach of goats. The frame constructed for support of this fabric will need to be strong enough to withstand local winds. In terms of cost, trees or other natural shade is the cheapest. The fabric type of shade would rank second. It is possible to build a small roof-only shed inside a pen to provide needed shade for your animals. This type of shade will lack portability. Further, the site for its placement should be carefully considered in order to prevent interference with animal movement through the corral system. A roofed shed will provide protection not only from the sun but from rain as well, except in strong wind. This being the case, a permanent, roofed shed is superior to either the natural shade provided by trees or even the protection offered by the fabric type of material. Portable skid, or wheel mounted sheds are another consideration when movement to other pastures or areas of a property may be required. Old flat bed or cotton trailers can easily be adapted for use as portable shelters. Windbreaks The natural hair covering of goats will, in most cases, provide enough protection from the wind except during the coldest times of winter. There are major geographic differences in the extent to which cold is a major challenge. Windbreaks need not be elaborate in their construction as the only goal is to block the wind. They also do not need to be any higher than the goats. It is recommended that windbreaks be located on the north or northwest sides of the pen. It is also suggested that the windbreaks be constructed of some type of material that will not be destroyed by the animals. To prevent the goats from damaging your windbreaks, placement along the outside of the pens fence line is a wise choice. If feasible, the build up of a small pad higher than the surrounding terrain along the downwind side of the windbreak inside the pen is recommended. Goats, before they bed down, will often paw out a bed and if a raised area is not built up there will soon be depressions running the length of your windbreak area rendering it unsuitable for use should rainfall accompany the wind. Goats will not bed down in a mud puddle rendering the windbreak useless. Innovation, creative thinking, and use of materials already on hand, can reduce the cost of windbreak construction. Materials for consideration in construction of a wind break range from plywood, sheets of metal roofing, or even old round bales of hay placed lengthwise along the suggested north fence line. Metal of some variety would be first choice. Plywood would be a good second choice but it must be placed where it is inaccessible to goats otherwise it will get eaten. The use of round bales placed along the outside of the fence line is effective if they are on hand. The use of poly tarps tied along a fence line is not recommended for windbreaks. Goats will chew the poly tarps and ingest some material leading to possible rumen impaction and subsequent death. Regardless of what material you chose to use in constructing a windbreak, keep in mind that it does not need to exceed four feet in height. An example of a low cost windbreak is one constructed out of the metal siding off of an old mobile home. Barns and sheds If you should wish to construct more elaborate housing for your goats due to particularly wet or cold conditions, then a modest barn or enclosed shed may be in order. The protection offered by a barn or shed will surpass that provided by either shade or windbreaks. Shed design When producers are building a new barn or shed specifically to house goats, a common mistake is building a structure with too high a roof. In order for a goat shed to be the most effective and efficient, the roof need not

be higher than four feet or less in the rear, and six feet or less in the front. The low ceiling allows the goats body heat to accumulate and warm the air to a higher temperature than would occur with a higher roof. Entering or cleaning a shed of this height will not be convenient for the producer, but this height is ideal for goats. Commonly, producers make their sheds portable so when manure accumulates the shed can be pulled or carried to a different location. If the shed is to be permanent, then a higher roof should be considered for convenience of the owner. The biggest drawback when working in a properly designed goat shed is the low height and head clearance. An existing barn may be converted into housing for goats by place a supporting a framework and plywood ceiling at the ideal four-foot height. With adequate support, this new rooftop may also be used for storage of feed and water buckets keeping them handy when needed. This may not look pretty, but functionality should be of greater consideration. An ideal goat shed is long, has a low roof, and is shallow. The shed does not need to be any deeper than eight feet as animals are more prone to pile on top of each other in deeper sheds. This creates the danger of suffocating kids or the weaker animals in the herd because they are often on the bottom of the pile. This shallower depth also allows for good ventilation which is important since, along with manure, urine will be deposited under the sheds. Inadequate ventilation can lead to high ammonia concentrations in the shed that can create respiratory problems, especially in young kids whose lungs have not fully developed. There is debate as to the type of floor most suited for goat barns. A compacted dirt floor with sand, wood shavings, or other bedding material is recommended for the main barn area. A cement floor can be used in the work area and wash rack if desired. The sand or shavings will absorb most fluids and will be easy to clean out and replace periodically as well as providing surer footing for both producer and goats. Concrete floor barns can become slick when wet and if too rough a finish is used the floors will be difficult to clean satisfactorily. The shed should face southwest to effectively utilize the winter sun as a source of heat. This also allows the back of the shed to shield animals from cold north winds. A water supply should be near or inside the barn. Having a convenient water source to fill water buckets or wash something is of great benefit. If possible, installation of an on-demand hot water heater is a nice addition as well. If designing or building a new structure, be sure to plumb adequate water pipes and drains. Wire electricity into the barn for lighting and electrical outlets. Size A good guideline for floor space requirements for goats is to allow ten square feet per adult animal with five square feet being a minimum requirement. A shed 30 long, by 8 deep, by 4 tall providing 240 sq. ft. floor space would shelter twenty to twenty five adult animals using the ten square feet guideline. More space per animal is better but smaller sheds can be used. Particularly in winter the close proximity of goats to each other helps them stay warmer from body heat alone. If kids are present in the group be sure to include five square feet of space for each set of kids. As with feeding space, observation on the dynamics of individuals in the herd will determine if adequate space has been provided. The producer may also wish to build stalls to house individual animals for various reasons such as a doe that does not want her kids. Placing the doe and kids in a small stall for a period of time allows dam and kids to bond, increasing kid survival. A stall or jug for bonding does to their kids should be approximately 5 5 allowing plenty of room for feed and water buckets as well as the goats. Stalls are also easily heated with heat lamps during extreme low temperatures such as those seen in more northern climates. If building (housing) sheds or stalls inside an existing barn the roof sections can be made removable for ease of cleaning.

Water and Water Quality

The single most important nutrient for support of plant or animal life is water. Water, along with its availability, accessibility, and quality is a number one priority yet less consideration is given to it compared to many other aspects of a goat operation. Source and quality If a natural water source is available, be it a pond, spring, or stream, goats will utilize it as their first choice, as long as the water is not stagnant. Goats should have easy access to these natural watering holes. A firm bank leading to the water will encourage greater use of the resource than a soft bank. A load of crushed rock or gravel to make an all-weather trail is one way to provide a firm, all-weather access trail. Preventing the loss of one goat from inadequate water intake or from becoming mired in mud while trying to get a drink will help pay for the materials used. When the naturally occurring water source is a spring, developing the spring and piping the water to a trough or pond is recommended. Allowing livestock to trample the immediate area surrounding the spring will lead to creation of a mud hole at the minimum, and can damage the spring outlet lessening or ceasing its flow. The best course of action is to fence off the area around the spring and invest in some PVC pipe to transport the water, even if only a short distance away, into a suitable watering container. When natural sources of water are not available, water must be provided through a well or county water source. In these situations, some form of watering system is required. The two most popular forms of water containers for goat operations are troughs or buckets. Both require more constant monitoring than do natural watering sources. Buckets are fine for small operations but for larger herds and for those in more remote locations, a trough is preferred. Where a constant inflow of water is maintained through a pipeline or hose, a float controlled, flow-regulating valve to maintain the correct water level in the trough can be used. If the troughs are in a location where they can be easily monitored daily, the expense of a float valve system can be avoided and the troughs filled as needed with a water hose. Do not let automatic watering devices prevent regular checks of water cleanliness. Whether buckets or troughs are used for watering, regular cleaning to ensure constant availability of fresh, clear water will encourage sufficient intake. If the water is not clean enough for human consumption, the troughs need to be cleaned. Water requirements A goat requires one to three gallons of water per day depending on diet, intake, and environmental conditions. Water depth in troughs should not exceed 12 to 14 to allow access by kids and to prevent kids from falling in and drowning. Kids can easily climb out of shallow troughs. Existing water troughs designed for cattle or horses that may be two feet in height can be adapted for use by goats through a ramp or step placed beside the trough allowing younger, smaller animals to drink. Cinder blocks or rocks can be put in these troughs to reduce water depth and prevent accidental drowning. Water consumption rate will remain fairly constant throughout the year regardless of the temperature; therefore, keep the supply constant. If bucket, or trough heaters of some type are not used in the colder climates, daily checks to remove surface ice and allow the animal access to water will be necessary.

Working Facilities
In any goat operation regardless of size, there exists the need for a set of corrals to assist in working and managing the herd. One single large pen or pasture will not allow effective herd management. At some time it will become necessary to work your animals, whether for inspection, de-worming, sorting, or other reasons. A catch pen or corral is preferred to a large pasture for performing these operations. The size of corral and number of pens needed are dependent primarily upon herd size. When working animals, crowding is preferred to an oversized pen. Pens will need strong construction as animals will be crowded and under pressure. A central location with easy access to the corrals from all areas of the property is the ideal site. Select a well-drained site, if available, for corral construction. A producer should visit other goat operations and view their corral setups prior to beginning construction of a corral system. Working pens A single pen of enough size to accommodate the entire herd to be worked, with a series of smaller pens feeding off of it is preferred. The animals can then be funneled into progressively smaller pen areas. Pen dimensions needed are undefined as there is no one size fits all, (see above statement regarding herd size). The biggest factor for consideration in overall pen size is; in how large of a pen do you want to chase goats? This is where labor availability and the producers physical condition becomes a consideration. If a producer has adequate labor, can rope well, or likes to run, a 100 100 pen will work fine for a five goat herd. Ideally, the smallest pen or working area will be small enough to easily grab a goat from practically any location in it, or about 10 10 maximum size. In a single pasture situation, placement of corrals in a corner will make pen construction simpler. Two side fences will already be in place as well as a fence line to use as a wing to assist herding the animals into the enclosure. Gate placement for animal entry and exit is an important consideration with corners of pens preferred to a gate located in the center. A narrow chute leading off of or integrated into a pen compound is a valuable asset for administering medicines or loading animals for transport. Most livestock trailers are six feet in width and a maximum width of six feet should be considered for a combination loading/working chute. This size allows room for both producer and goats inside the chute, yet is not so oversized as to prevent easily catching animals. Orienting the chute on an east-west axis will reduce shadows that can cause goats to balk at entering a working, sorting, or loading chute. There are several companies that manufacture and sell component style corral systems. These systems lend themselves well to new, as well as smaller, operations due to their portability and the capability to add on various system components as needed. Component systems are more flexible in that they can be easily reconfigured as compared to permanent corral pens. This allows a producer to experiment with various size designs and configurations while searching for an ideal pen setup. An additional advantage of component systems is that the system or individual components can be sold should a producer decide to construct corrals of a permanent nature, or discover they have purchased components not needed in their operation. The one disadvantage of these systems is their initial high cost. However, when this initial high purchase price is compared to the cost of building permanent pens that dont funnel animals effectively or that are not producer friendly, component systems may be a bargain. Breeding pen In many of todays goat operations, controlled mating is an important consideration. Construction of a mating or breeding pen can assist a producer in breeding management. A mating pen should provide enough space for animals to move about freely. A 150 150 pen will comfortably serve 30 up to 50 head of goats in a breeding

scenario. Confinement breeding can decrease the length of the kidding season leading to a more uniform set of kids at market time. Confinement breeding also allows for the use of a single buck to breed a large number of does. Pen mating is a recognized short-term confinement situation, and these pen dimensions should not be considered adequate for long-term animal confinement. A breeding pen should have adequate room for water containers, mineral feeders, shelter, and feed troughs as well as the goats. Kidding pen For producers of high value stock, or for smaller producers, dedicating a pen not needed for day-to-day operations as a kidding pen can improve kid survival rates. A kidding pen is not a necessity but is an option for more intensively managed operations. Placing pregnant does in the pen one week prior to kidding and holding the doe and kid(s) in the pen for a week or so post- parturition can significantly increase kid survival. This is due largely to closer observation of doe and kid, but also by reduced predation losses as well. Another tool that can aid kid survival is placement of a jump board approximately 14 in height across the pens gate. This allows does to exit the pens and graze if they desire while containing smaller kids safely inside the enclosure. Once the kids have reached sufficient size to climb over this board, they are usually large enough to follow their dams out into a pasture and return safely. Weaning pen A pen for confining kid goats upon weaning is another important aspect to be considered. Kid goats need to be weaned and separated from their dams in order to allow the does to dry up and regain body condition in preparation for their next breeding. It is especially important to house buck kids separately at weaning to prevent unwanted matings as the buck kids enter puberty. A weaning pen also allows a producer to feed kids a more nutritious diet to increase growth rate. As with any pen designed for long confinement periods, mineral feeders, water containers, shelter, and feed troughs must be provided. Quarantine pen A quarantine pen for newly acquired animals should be constructed. When animals are acquired from any source it is a good idea to keep them separated from the main herd for a quarantine period of a minimum of 2 weeks and usually for 30 days or longer. Quarantining newly acquired animals allows producers to observe and test animals for diseases before co-mingling them with animals already on the farm. This will help avoid introducing new diseases, or parasites, into the established herd. The quarantine pen needs to be a dedicated quarantine area that is used every time new animals are brought onto the premises. Since most acquisitions are small in nature, such as a single buck or small number of does, the pen need not be large in size but maintaining it as your dedicated quarantine area is important. If possible an easily cleaned or disinfected flooring surface is recommended for the quarantine area. How to raise a healthy goat A doe yields more than milk, of course . . . each year she'll birth from one to three kids. The youngsters can present the beginning goatkeeper with a problem becausesince they're about the cutest and most lovable animals on this earthyou may get so attached to the furry little newcomers that you'll end up surrounded by hordes of full-grown nannies and billies. To avoid that problem, you must be prepared to sell or butcher some of your home-raised goats. Actually, any female offspring are relatively easy to deal with. One of your best doelings can be saved to replace its momma on the milk line when the old gal reaches five or six years of age . . . and you'll generally find a good market for your other young does.

Buck kids, however, are another matter. In order to ensure that the best possible male genes go into the makeup of your future herds, you should save only one out of every hundred b illies to be a breeding sire. The many males that don't meet such a rigid standard of excellence should be castrated when they're less than three weeks of age and, ultimately, butchered. Since there's nothing tastier than chevon (its flavor resembles that of lamb), most folks don't mind at all that about half of their nanny's kids will be bucks. The meat can be harvested shortly after the males are born (prepare it much as you would rabbit) or when the youngsters are weaned at 8 to 12 weeks of age. Then again, you might want to keep the animals until they reach their mature weight of 60 pounds . . . at around six months. (Don't wait any longer, though . . . a goat doesn't grow much after it reaches maturity.) KNOW WHAT A NORMALANIMAL LOOKS AND FEELS LIKE When you decide to purchase a herdstarting doe (or two), you'll immediately be faced with the decision of what breed to invest in. In the U.S., the five most popular purebred goats are Toggenburg, French Alpine, Saanen, La Mancha, and Nubian. (The last two varieties could be called the "Jersey cows" of goats: Although they give slightly less milk than do their three "cousins", their product is high in butterfat.) Any of the five breeds can be successfully raised in all parts of North America, but in most cases the best breed for you will be the one that is most common in your area . . . since their offspring will be the easiest to sell to other folks

Grade (crossbred) goats will often yield just as much milk asor even more thantheir purebred sisters do, and will usually cost less to buy. But the offspring from such animals will almost never sell at as high a price as do purebred kids. Therefore, it's probably better to buy a higher-priced purebred doe at the outset, and then pay yourself back for that purchase later . . . through the sale of the kids. Another decision you'll have to make is how old a goat to buy. (You can judge the age of any horned ruminant by examining its teeth: A young goat, for example, has a set of small baby teeth. These are replaced by larger, adult teethat the rate of one pair a yearover a four-year period.) Kids will be the least expensive purchases, but they'll also be the riskiest buys, since only a professional goat breeder can judge whether or not a spindlylegged youngster will eventually mature into a high-quality milker. Older nannies are not always the most practical purchases, either. . . because udder production usually (but not always) tapers off after an animal is four or five years old. The best way to be sure of what you're getting, then, is to purchase a productive two- or three-year-old doe, even though such premium creatures are, naturally enough, the most expensive. Regardless of what breedand what ageyour herd-starter is, you should be absolutely sure you're buying a normal goat. If you've read my other livestock articles in MOTHER, you already know that a healthy critter should be bright-eyed and alert, walk with an easy-going gait, and have no abscess-indicating lumps on its body (check especially along the beast's neck, legs, and udder). And the animal's droppings should be firm (rather than runny). BUY THE BESTGOAT YOU CAN FIND Your first doe will, of course, have a determining influence on the future herd, soin addition to buying a healthy goat you should take home only the best specimen you can locate. Now you may at first find that all goats look pretty much alike to you, but with a little practice and experience (which can be most easily obtained by watching from the stands of a local goat show or county fair), you'll be able to discern the difference between a topnotch pail filler and an inferior bottom-of-the-bucket milker.

For openers, a smart buyer doesn't mea sure the quality of a goat by the amount of meat a doe will make, so don't look for a thick, chunky critter that resembles a prime steer, pig, or lamb. Instead, buy an animal with "dairy character" .. . a lean, angular ruminant that's blessed with plenty of body and udder capacity. A good place to start inspecting your prospective milker is right at the animal's midsection. Size up the beast's belly: The rounder and deeper it is, the better. Next, examine her chest. If you can lay the flat of your hand between the doe's front legs, and if two fingers will fit between each pair of ribs, the goat's heart and lungs have a good amount of working space. Now, eyeball your doe from the rear. The top of her back area, from the hips to the shoulders, should resemble a long triangle. The critter should also be wide at the hip bones and look broad-bellied enough to "store a barrel full of feed". Her back limbs should be placed well apart, and the udder should fill the open space between those legs. The body of the milk sack should also extend well back toward the animal's tail, the back face of the udder should appear to be flat, and its teats should point straight down (rather than out or in). If all of the foregoing features look good, mosey around to the side of your prospective purchase and examine the animal's udder from this new angle. The sack should extend well forward and fill up most of the flank area. The "floor" of the udder should, again, appear flat and should also lie below, or level with, the animal's hocks. Andwhen seen from this lateral viewpointthe teats should seem to be aimed slightly forward. These "handles" should also have a size and shape that will just fit into the palms of your hands. Finally, don't actually buy the goatno matter how fine the critter looksuntil you've tried milking her! Some spoiled does are so cantankerous that they're almost impossible to work with . . . and in a few others the tubes in the teats (the passages that the milk squirts through) are so tiny that you'll tucker out your fingers before you ever milk the nannies dry. CULL THE WORST ANIMALS The other side of goat purchasing and raisingand one that every owner must sooner or later face up tois culling the herd's least productive animals. Unless you want to keep an ever-increasing stock of caprine pets, you shouldeach yearselect the stingiest milkers, poorest mothers, and least valuable kids (even if one of them is your favorite animal companion) and add them to a neighbor's herd or your own dinner table. The gleaning process will hold especially true for male goats because, as I said before, you should keep only one out of every 100 young bucks. And how did I pick that particular number? Well, if you assume that an average buck can breed 20 does a year for five years and if each of those mothers bears two kids per litter, one buck can father 200 offspring, and 100 of those offspring will be males. It follows that only onethe very best oneof those young bucks will be needed to replace his aging sire. BUILD YOUR GOAT HOUSE AND FENCING WELL When it comes to goat shelter, most caprine caretakers adhere to the rule of K.I.S.S. "Keep It Simple, Stupid!" The animals do not need elaborate homes, so any three-sided shed that'll keep out the wind, rain, or sun will be adequate. Allow 16 square feet of inside space per adult goat, and face the structure south to avoid the prevailing winter winds (while letting in some of that cold season's sunlight). In addition, plan your shelter's construction so the shed will be easy to clean. Building fencing for goats, however, is not a simple undertaking at all ... because the animals are incredibly skillful escape artists. A nimble-footed nanny can jump a four-foot-high obstacle, squiggle through a tiny hole, shove a fencepost with her head until the pole collapses, and even knock against the top of a fence wire with her front hoofs until she mashes the barrier down and can leap out.

So unless you're hoping to get even with a neighbor whose stray cow just punctured your prize pumpkin, enclose your goat yard as sturdily as possible. One good approach is to use welded wirewith no more than six inches between staysand mount the material on the in side of firmly placed posts. Be sure the finished fence is at least 4-1/2 or 5 feet high, and add a hoof-resistant top, built out of boards, to the enclosure. If you're willing to spend $18 to $22 a section, you'll find that commercially available 4-1/2' X 16' fence panels made out of quarter-inch galvanized steelare pretty nearly goatproof. Or you might construct a threestranded electric barrier (with the wires placed 10, 20, and 40 inches above the ground) to contain your critters. Either of these preventive measures should effectively keep most of your caprine livestock at home. Bucks, though, are notorious fence-jumpers ... especially during breeding season. You'll often need to run an electric or barbed wire strand above, and ten inches inside, a five-foot fence to keep the randy animals from roaming. FEED THE CRITTERS CORRECTLY One of the most important advantages of goat raisingfor the economy-minded farmsteaderis that the milkmakers will function perfectly well on inexpensive hay or foraged food ... with a little grain thrown in to step up their milk or breeding output. Actually, idle bucks and nonpregnant dry does can be kept in tiptop shape on goodquality hay or some other forage crop alone . . . because the ruminants' internal bacteria can use that food source to produce all the protein, carbohydrates, fats, and vitamins the goats need. Even though bucks and does do love their greens, however, they are not naturally grass-grazers. (So don't buy a billy to replace your lawn mower . . . the picky chewer will strip your fruit treesor a favorite rose bushbefore it starts cutting the grass!) The grain you feed to your goats should be supplied only to meet the extra protein needs of milk- or kidproducing animals. A pregnant doe, for instance, will do best if given a one-pound scoop of grain daily ... and two pounds a day during the last three weeks of pregnancy. During the breeding season, a buck can also be given one to two pounds of grain a day. (Both animals should, of course, also have access to plenty of goodquality hay or pasture.) The amount of extra protein a milking doe needs will depend upon how much of the liquid she gives each day and on the butterfat content of that milk. (A county extension agent or area dairy farmer can show you how to determine butterfat levels.) In general, you should feed the dam one-half pound of grain daily for each pound of 3% butterfat milk she produces. If the butterfat content is 5.5%, though, you should give the doe three-quarters of a pound of grain a day per pound of milk. (If you're caretaking an excellent producer that yields as much as 12 pounds of milk daily ... count your blessings and give that remarkable nanny all the grain she wants.) Remember, too, that any goat's daily dinner won't be complete unless you've added a few "garnishes" ... namely, a free choice supply of both table salt and a good mineral mix (provide both substances in a feed bunk that's protected from the weather). And one more thing: Please NEVER forget to keep clean, fresh water available to your animals at all times. UNDERSTAND YOUR GOATS' CYCLES A good understanding of your caprine critters' growth and breeding patterns will help keep you prepared for all their annual natural events. You should know, for instance, that goats can begin their reproductive lives at an early age. Doelings are mature enough for mating when they're only six months old (or reach a weight of 60 pounds), which means that they normally canand shouldbe bred during their first fall. And bucks may reach fertile maturity by the time they're just three months old. A female goat commences her yearly heat cycles when the hours of daylight begin to decrease significantly (in most states, this will occur around August or September). The doe will be in estrus for one to three days at a

time, and have an 18-to 21-day "rest" between heats. This pattern will continue (only if the animal's not bred, of course) through March. Nearly every female goat will let you know when she's in heat by acting more than normally affectionate toward you, bleating and crying frequently, continually wagging her tail, and (perhaps) urinating often. You may also notice some swelling around the animal's vulva and/or a small amount of clear or bloody vaginal discharge. (Now and then you will run across a shy gal that's secretive about her heat periods, but don't worry ... any buck in the area will know exactly what's going on.) After a successful mating, the doe will be pregnant for 150 days before she gives birth (or, as most dairy folk say, "freshens"). The milk flow of a lactating mother will be strongest during the first two or three months after delivery, gradually taper off, and finally end around 305 days after it begins. A doe can be rebred for the next year's kid crop while she's still producing milk from last season's. However, the animal should definitely be given a two-month vacation between the end of one milking period and the start of the next. You can calculate when to begin this dry spell by counting backward 60 days from the expected birthday of the next batch of kids .. . or forward 90 days from the anniversary of the doe's fall breeding. On the determined day, simply stop milking the female and put her on a low-calcium, milk-fever-preventing diet. (See the sidebar, "Preventing Ketosis and Milk Fever in the Pregnant Doe", which accompanies this article.) The best way to "dry up" a goat is to let the pressure of a full udder stop further production. So don'tbecause you feel sorry for a large-uddered crittermilk the sack out every so often . . . you'd just be prolonging the doe's agony. KEEP ACCURATE AND MEANINGFUL RECORDS If you've been reading closely so far, you'll understand how important it is for a goat owner to keep track of birthdays, breeding dates, heat cycles, and dry periods. In addition to such bits of record keeping, you should also list the kinds of medication you use on your milkersand the dates you administer the remedies and maintain a daily record of your doe's milk yield throughout her lactation period. (This last statistic can give you a good idea of what each doe's offspring should be worth to a prospective buyer.) CODDLE THE YOUNGSTERS The best way to ensure that each of your goats will have a long and productive life is to make sure every newborn starts off on the right hoof. So you should prepare for "kiddings" by gathering up clean rags, filling a wide-mouth plastic bottle with tincture of iodine, and making sure you've plenty of clean bedding on hand. Newborn goat care consists of paying attention to Dr. Kidd's Three C's: Cleanliness, Cord Care, and Colostrum. Cleanliness is vital . . . the kid nursery should be well ventilated (a three-sided, south-facing shed should do fine) and have a deep bed of absolutely dry and clean bedding for the young'uns to curl up in. As long as you maintain such a nest, you will almost never have to provide any supplemental warmth for the hardy tots . . . in fact, you should probably avoid doing so. Enclosed, heated sheds are almost always too damp (if you can feel moisture on the nursery wall, increase the structure's ventilation or remove some of its inhabitants) and are ideal breeding grounds for all sorts of disease-carrying organisms. When the youngsters are born, give each one a vigorous and stimulating rubdown with a clean rag until the animal is dry (the nanny can also accomplish this task with her tongue). Then soak each youngster's navel in iodine by dipping its cord stub into your tincture-filled bottle, pressing the container firmly against the kid's belly, and then turning both goat and bottle upside down.

Each babe will also need an early dose of colostrum ... that special antibody, nutrient, and vitamin loaded milk that mothers produce for a day or two after birth. (You might even want to milk out and freeze some colostrum, to save for any orphaned newborns of future litters.) The easiest way to make sure the new arrivals get their share of the precious fluid, of course, would be simply to let the youngsters nurse. Most goat breeders will start the little milkers off on a bottle or pail, though, because suckling kids are difficult to wean (and can be pretty rough on udders), and nursing mothers tend to produce less and dry up sooner than dams whose milk is handexpressed. So if you want to promote productivity in your doe, bottle-feed the kidsright from the startwith four daily doses of 4 to 6 ounces of milk each. You can then change to three 8- to 10-ounce diurnal feedings by the time the youngsters are one week old ... gradually increase the quantity of milk per serving to 12-14 ounces (again, fed three times a day)... and start to decrease the amount per feeding when the youngsters reach eight weeks of age. And don't make the all-too-common mistake of overfeeding those new kids, or your little slurpers will develop cases of the runs faster'n you can fetch a pitchfork. Instead, encourage the young'uns to munch on hay and grain at an early age by having plenty of the solid foods around for them to nibble. Rumen development, you see, is stimulated by eating grain and hay (milk, on the other hand, passes right by the ruminant chamber of a goat's four stomachs and goes directly to the last digester, the abomasum), and the sooner that cud-chewing organ begins its work, the faster the kids will grow. If you do encourage such a vegetarian diet, your kids should start sampling grain and greens by the time they're three or four weeks old . . . and be ready to be completely weaned when they're from 10 to 14 weeks of age. There are two other caretaking chores you should be sure to attend to before your kids are three weeks old: disbudding elf the young critters, and castrating any males you don't expect to breed. The horns on baby goats' heads are mere buttons that can be easily removed, but if you allow the appendages to grow, you'll end up either with a horned adult that's a potential menace to other livestock (and to you), or with an extremely difficult dehorning chore. To disbud a kid, you first need to get hold of a disbudding iron (some folks use a caustic bovine d isbudding paste for this job, but I've seen too many goats' ears and other hairy parts injured with that substance . . . so in my opinion, the disbudder is the only way to go). You'll also need to build or buy an appropriately sized wooden restraining box that has a porthole for the youngster's head. Once you've got the kid securely immobilized, heat the disbudding iron until the searing tool will quickly burn a black ring in wood and then press the iron over a horn bud for six seconds . . . rotating the disbudder slightly as you hold it to ensure good contact with the nodule. Repeat this process on the first hornlet, and then perform the same double operation on the other bud . . . to ensure a total of 10 to 15 seconds burning time on each horn surface. When you're finished, the seared ring around the bud will be slick and copper-colored. On the same day that you disbud your kids, you should castrate the young, nonbreeder bucks. For this procedure, first disinfect your hands and each animal's scrotum. Then, using a sterile knife or scalpel blade, slice off the entire bottom third of the male's testicular sack. Now grasp each testicle and gently pull itand its cordout until it breaks off. Follow up this surgery by applying some antibiotic powder (and a protective dressing during fly season) and administering a dose of tetanus antitoxin. Most novice goalkeepers will be sorely upset by the kids' agonized bleatings while the animals are being castrated or disbudded. Don't let such carrying-on worry you, though, because immediately after the operations are over, the youngsters will quietly amble off to look for a tasty patch of forage to nibble on . . . just as if nothing had ever happened. Preventing Ketosis and Milk Fever in the Pregnant Doe

Not only should a pregnant doe's diet provide enough protein, energy, minerals, and vitamins to feed both the dam and her unborn kids, but the animal's menu should also be carefully managed to help avoid two relatively common caprine ailments: ketosis and milk fever. Ketosis, or pregnancy toxemia, affects expectant does shortly before they're due to give birth. A beast so afflicted may go off its feed, grind its teeth, have a peculiar odor, andif the problem is allowed to progress uncheckedeventually go into convulsions and die. You can detect the ailment by checking the critter's urine with a test powder or paper strip available in drugstores. You should, though, be able to prevent ketosis from becoming a problem in the first place, by making sure every expectant doe has a high-energy diet that's loaded with carbohydrates. Give your pregnant goats one to two pounds of grain daily (along with their regular hay or pasture feedings, of course) . . . especially during the last three weeks before she's due to kid. Milk feweron the other handoccurs most frequently after a doe gives birth. This disease may cause restlessness, excitability, and lack of coordination. Eventually the weakened animal may fail down and be unable to get back up. This deficiency disease can strike when a goat is using all the calcium circulating through her bloodstream to make milk for the offspring. To prevent the problem, give the milking mother a diet high in calcium and make surebeforehandthat the darn will be ready to utilize the mineral fully. You can accomplish the latter task by first feeding the goat a diet that's low in the bone-building nutrient during its two-month dry period. (Good feeds for this purpose are grass haystimothy and prairie, for exampleand such grains as corn, wheat, milo, and oats. Be certain, also, that the animal's mineral mix contains no calcium.) Then, when the doe freshens, start feeding her a high-calcium diet that includes legume hays, and grains such as soybean, cottonseed, and linseed meal. In that way, not only will the dam have a high level of calcium in her daily menu, but her body will have been primed to use every bit of the vital mineral. HELP YOUR GOATSFIGHT THEIR OWN DISEASES The old saw, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure", holds especially true for goats. So along with the proper caretaking discussed in the rest of this article, you should regularly administer some preventive medical treatments to your caprine companions. All goats should be given vaccines for tetanus and for enterotoxemia, or overeating disease (caused by Clostridium perfringens bacteria, types C and D). Start your prevention program at the prenatal stage by treating each expectant mother, for both diseases, during her last month of pregnancy (use vaccines that your vet can assure you will not harm the developing fetuses). Then give both medications to the offspring when the kids are 8 to 12 weeks old, and again 4 to 6 weeks later. Adult goats ought to be revaccinated yearly, and a precautionary dose of tetanus antitoxin is a good safeguard any time one of your animals gets a deep scratch or has surgery. (In addition, check with your local veterinarian to see if there are any other vaccines recommended specifically for your area.) Internal parasites are another problem you'll have to fight. In fact, unless you work pretty Banged hard to eliminate the hidden bandits, they can be the worst livestock "rustlers" on your farm. You'd be wise to worm all your goats each spring and fall (or once a month if you've got a large herd). A local vet can recommend the best vermicide to use in your location. Goats are also afflicted by such external parasites as lice and ticks, so you should treat your stockin the spring and fallto control the blood-sucking varmints. (Rotenone is a good organic duster for this job.) GOAT TO IT

Well, you've now read all the basics of caretaking caprine milkmakers, from choosing your stock to keeping them disease-free. So if you like goat's milk as much as I doand think you'd enjoy sitting next to a nanny in a straw-smelling barn twice each day while you stroke her spigotsit's time for you to get a goat for your barnyard. You'll never find a more agreeable (or more profitable, when you consider how little the milk will cost you) companion. HOOF TRIMMING Unless your goats spend a lot of time foraging in hard, tacky places, each of the animals will need periodic hoof trimming (otherwise the toe areas can growlike unclipped fingernailsand will eventually cripple the critter). Most owners perform the task about once a month. The job should take only a few minutes, and can be done with a sharp packet or roofing knife . . . or even with a pair of good garden pruning shears. First off, securely restrain the goat (an assistant, or a sturdy milking stand, can be a big help). Nextstanding with your back to the animal's rearlift one of the goat's hind legs. Clean out the foot, and then start trimming off any curled-under edges or obviously excess growth. (By the way, suet hoofs are a lot easier to trim than are dry ones.) After that, carefully cut thin layers off the bottom surface of the animal's footthe toe will probably need more pruning than the heeluntil you begin to approach the pinkish, blood-filled layers. Check your work by seeing how squarely the goat can stand, and then repeat the procedure on the buck or doe's other hind foot. Finish up by crouching along the beast's side and trimming the goat's front hoofs. (And don't worry if you accidentally cut a little too deeply and the pad starts to bleed. Simply apply some pressure with a clean rag to the injury to help stop the blood flow.) EDITOR'S NOTE: You can learn more about raising goats on the homestead level from the following resources

Why Invest in Goats? Goats are very popular among Filipinos because they require low initial capital investment, fit the smallhold farm conditions, and multiply fast. Culturally, goats are integral to every special occasion such as birthdays, baptisms, weddings, and fiestas. Hence, they command a higher price compared with other meats in the market. Goats require low maintenance because they eat tree leaves, weeds, grasses, and agricultural by-products. They are not only a source of protein for Filipinos, but they also provide the much-needed income. In fact, goats provide livelihood to about 15 million Filipinos across the country today. As goat production requires low initial investment and small risks compared to other livestock species, it is thus an attractive undertaking among resource-poor families. Moreover, women and children can raise the species, making it a sound option to augment the countrys programs on livelihood. At the moment, there is an increase in demand for goats. Although total goat inventory in the country is steadily increasing at 2% per year, still there is not enough supply to meet current demands. It is expected that this increased demand will last to 2020, the year when supply is projected to meet demand. Considering these, goat production is indeed a promising venture and anyone interested to go into this business is expected to reap positive rewards. What products do I get from goats?

The following table briefly discusses the possible business enterprises one can focus on, the required investment, the final product and estimated income, and the potential market for the products (figures based on 2006 data): Business Investment Product Market

Sale of breeders

Pure or upgraded Nubian, Toggenburg, or Boer buck Pure or upgraded Private multiplier (P7,500 to breeders for sale farms and 12,500/hd) + (P3,000government Native or 12,500/hd) institutions upgraded does (P1,500 to 4,000/hd) Live animal for sale (P120 to Meat vendors in 180/kilo the wet or minimum of marketKambingan 4,500/hd per day) restaurants, hotels Processed meat like tapa, Supermarkets tocino or satey kambing Buck service (P50 to 150/service) Goat raisers in the village

1 upgraded Boer for every 25 females + 100 does for Sale of goat every 1 slaughter meat or live goat for sale per slaughter goats day; 200 does for 2 goats/day sale; and 300 does for 3 goats/day sale Buck-for-hire Pure or upgraded buck

Pure or upgraded goats Goat milk (0.7-2 kg in 215-250 Market where fresh of the Anglo days of Sale of Nubian (AN) or milk is milking)Yogurt, products from Saanen soldCosmetic cheese goats milk breedTools and manufacturing equipment for companies pasteurization of Soap, lotion milk How do I start my goat business? To start a profitable goat business, one has to have th following production inputs: For backyard operation a. Investment

Goat house Breeding stocks

b. Operating expenses

Veterinary medicines Vaccines Concentrates Additional feed supplements For commercial or large-scale operation

c. Fixed investment

Land Goat house Fences Pasture area Water pump Feeding trough Spade Wheelbarrow Ropes

d. Stocks

Breeding does Breeding bucks

e. Operating expenses

Veterinary medicines, drugs, and vaccines Feed supplements and goat rations Labor: fixed and seasonal Repair and maintenance of goat house fences, equipment, and pasture

How much initial investment is needed and how much profit will I get? Goat raising is highly profitable. With minimal initial capital investment of P 67,250 for 25-doe level; P 174,500 for 50-doe level; or P 349,000 for 100-doe-level, positive net income and retum-on-investment (ROI) are realized, even as early as the first year. The ROI for 5 years is 67% from a 25-doe level operation under semi-confinement scheme and 60% from 50- and 100-doe level operations under pure confinement system. Payback period is 2 years. The projected income statement by type of operation is plotted below (figures based on 2006 data): 5-Year Range (in Pesos) Total expenses 25-Doe Level 50-Doe Level 100-Doe Level

373,262 762,002 1,524,004

Total income (sale of 1,219,50 stocks + stock inventory 623,750 2,439.000 0 value Net income 250,000 457,498 914,996

ROI (%)

67

60

60

When it rains, it likewise pours diseases. The Philippine Council for Agriculture, Forestry and Natural Resources Research and Development (PCARRD) said that goats, for instance, may continually be infected with worms throughout the year, but clinically apparent signs occur mainly during the wet season. Goats, especially growing kids, the PCARRD explained, succumb to respiratory diseases, diarrhea and worm infestation during the rainy season. Worms reduce the production of meat and milk, and reduce the animals resistance to infections. Infected animals excrete worms. The council noted that it is during the rainy season that eggs of worms transform into infective larvae in 3.5 days, since eggs survive only in an environment that is warm and moist. During rainy months, these eggs mature into infective larvae and travel to moist leaves of grasses and shrubs. When goats are let loose or tethered just after the rain or early in the morning when grasses are still moist with dew, they are able to eat the leaves laden with infective larvae. These larvae then mature into full-grown worms in the stomach of the animals, the council explained. To alleviate this goat health problem, PCARRD advises farmers not to graze their goats during rainy days or even during very early hours of the morning when the sun has not yet dried up the dew. Farmers can confine their goats in pens during the wet season, do strategic drenching with chemical de-wormers or go into rapid rotational grazing. More farmers are now implementing these technology options through the International Livestock Research Institute (ILRI), Australian Centre for International Agricultural Research (ACIAR) and the PCARRD project sustainable endoparasite control for small ruminants, likewise of ILRI, PCARRD and the International Fund for Agricultural Development (IFAD). PCARRD suggests that farmers use the rapid rotational grazing (RRG) since the method is an effective strategy to control worms. RRG is a scheme originally intended for farmers with access to large grazing areas. It involves subdividing all the available and possible pasture areas into 10 grazing areas and allowing goats to graze in each paddock for three to four days before moving on to the next paddock. The goats should not be returned to the same area within five weeks after rotation. In dividing pasture into paddocks, it is more important to consider the amount of available forage more than the size area. However, the scheme also works for smallholder farms. This can be done through rotational tethering or tying the animals to different grazing spots every three to four days. Tethered animals are transferred to nine to 10 different areas in a month. Other animals are not allowed likewise to graze the previous areas for 30 days. The objective is not just to improve the condition of the pasture but also to minimize parasitic infection by avoiding the infective stages of the parasites left in the grazed areas. Eggs begin to be infective only after the fourth day. If goats can avoid ingesting them at this stage, the parasites will be left in the soil without a host. Without the proper environment, they will eventually die and their life cycle ended. RRG is successfully used for goats in regions I and III. It is also adopted at the small ruminant center of the Central Luzon State University (CLSU) as well as in the San Miguel breeding farm in Leyte.

Farmers and farm caretakers attest to the fact that rotationally grazed animals have lower worm count than those that freely graze the pastures. Further RRG reduces the frequency of drenching by using chemical dewormers; hence production cost is reduced. Goats can be reared in the pastureland, but rearing them in cages has more advantages such as: 1. Cage-reared goats are less exposed to parasites. 2. They are better fed, and so the mother goat gives more milk. 3. Less field space is necessary for growing fodder and grass. For every six (6) females and one male goat, one-fourth (1/4) hectare of land would be enough. 4. The caged goats are easier tended and controlled. However, more capital is necessary, and needs a worker to gather fodder to feed the goats and clean the cages. As preparation for the pasteur, plant such grasses and plants that the goats will need, like paragrass, napier, madre de cacao (kakawate), alibangbang and ipil-ipil. Apply as fertilizer for these plants the dried goat manure so as to make them flourish. Cage 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Wooden house, bamboo floor, with roof and open sides. The floor is about 1.5 meters high from the ground so as to facilitate cleaning the manure. At the sides of the house, provide food and drinking water. Provide space outside to allow roaming around. The nursing mothers and the weaning kids should have a separate house. One side must have a divider to separate the small ones from the mother at night. 6. Six (6) male goats are housed together. Food 1. 2. 3. 4. The aforementioned plants are feed for goats. Do not give too much for each meal, of fresh forage. Goats do not like dirty grass or acidic (spoiled) food. They like variety of grasses for each meal.

Alternative Feeds As regards the cost and return of investment, it was found that it is more profitable to raise goats given with 60% rice straw and 40% paragrass with 10% molasses supplementation. Breeding 1. When the goats are about 6-8 months old, select good breeder and milker females and aggressive males. 2. A female goat may be mated at age 10-12 months. A male goat is ready to mate at age12 months. At the start, let him mate only a few, but as it grows older, the male goat can mate as many as 25 at age one and a half years. 3. A female goats fertile period lasts 2-3 days. The signs are: o a. it begins to bleat (me-e-eh) and wags its tail. o b. it urinates often. o c. the genital is inflamed and secretes mucous

d. the goat rides on other goats. 4. Mating should be once in the morning and once in the afternoon, and repeat next morning to be sure that there was fertilization. 5. Then separate the mated females. These will be pregnant in three (3) weeks if they would not manifest flirting.
o

Parturition (Delivery) 1. The goats gestation period is 145-155 days. Thus, the day of mating should be recorded. 2. When the time of delivery is near, the mother goat bleats (cries me-e-eh), discharges mucous from the genital, is cranky and scratches her bed. 3. At delivery, her mucous discharge is yellowish. 4. When the kid is coming out of its mother, help the delivery by pulling out the kid, but make sure that the hands of the helper are clean. Apply alcohol on the hands to avoid infection. Normally, the head comes out first. The kids are often two, rarely three. 5. Wipe the nose of the newly born kid to enable it to breathe freely. 6. Apply iodine at the end of the umbilical cord, and put a knot or tie it. 7. When the kids are four (4) days old, remove the newly growing horns to keep them from hurting one another. Only a veterinarian or one with experience should undertake this. 8. Others are: putting of mark on the ear one week after birth; cut off the nails once a month, and castration from one to four months old. Milking 1. Milk the mother goat five (5) days after delivery. Continue milking up to 3-5 months until the kids are weaned, or 60 days before another delivery. 2. Milk the goat in the early morning before the kids suck. 3. If the mother goat has abundant milk, she can be milked again toward afternoon. 4. Give the mother goat 200 to 300 gm concentrate daily to increase her milk. Weaning If the goat is raised to milk, do not totally wean the kid from the mother when this is 3-5 days old. Separate the kid from the mother at night. If milk production is only secondary, separate the kid totally when this is 3 months old. Make sure the kids are fed and given water while they are separated from the mother. In this way, the kids will quickly learn to eat and drink even while still young. Care 1. Allow the goats to exercise themselves 3-4 hours outside their cage. 2. Give them regular vaccination against disease. 3. Separate the sick and call for a veterinarian. The common sicknesses of the goat are pneumonia and parasites. Pneumonia: Usually affects the goat with the onset and toward the end of the rainy season. Do not allow them to be exposed to rain or draft. Signs of pneumonia are difficult and fast breathing. Give the goat liquamycin, Tylan 200 or Combiotic injection.

Parasites:

Give the goat tetrazole or thixbenzole every six months.

Bathe the Goat A goat raiser from Miag-ao, Iloilo, made a study on the effect of giving a bath to his goats. Giving the same food, one group was given a bath once a week, and the other not. It was observed that the goats given a weekly bath grew and gained weight faster than those not given a bath. They were weighed every two weeks. The goats were slaughtered after three months. It was also seen that the meat of those given baths were more acceptable in taste and color and had less odor than those not given baths. Manner of bathing the goats 1. Pour about two (2) liters water on each goat. 2. Then follow with a liter of water with a tablespoon soap. Let this stay on the goats body for about 3 minutes. 3. Rinse with about seven liters water. 4. Let them get dry before bringing them back to the cage. Return of Investment This ROI is a few years old, and this is for a 25 doe level under semi confinement, 50 doe level under confinement, 100 doe level under confinement.I think its for a native slaughter goat enterprise. 25 doe level,under semi confinement:

capital investment=P67,250 expenses for 5 years=P373,262 total income for 5 years,sale of stocks and stock inventory value=P623,750 net income for 5 years=P250,489 ROI %=67 payback period= 2 years

50 doe level,under confinement:

capital investment=P174,500 expenses for 5 years=P762.002 total income for 5 years,sale of stocks and stock inventory value=P1,219,500 net income for 5 years=P457,498 ROI %=60 payback period= 2 years

100 doe level,under confinement:

capital investments=P349,000 expenses for 5 years=P1,524,004 total income for 5 years,sale of stocks and stock inventory value=P2,439,000 net income for 5 years=P914,996 ROI %=60 payback period= 2 years

Transportation If you are raising goats you will eventually have a need to move them further than you care to herd them. For large quantities of goats a trailer will be necessary, however, smaller numbers can easily be transported in the bed of a pickup. To prevent the goats from jumping out you can use either a goat tote or a topper. A goat tote is basically a cage made with a galvanized pipe frame and 4 welded wire mesh top and sides. During cold and/or wet weather the goat tote can be covered with canvas or nylon to keep the wind and rain out. Feeders Unless you live in an area where adequate forage is available year round and you are not overstocked, you will need to feed your goats during a portion of each year. You may also need to provide a mineral supplement to them. Good feeders are a necessity to maximize the utilization of the feed and mineral you provide. A good feeder should keep the feed clean and dry until the goats eat it. This requires that the feeder be placed in a building or that it come equipped with a cover. The biggest source of feed contamination is the goats themselves. A good feeder is designed in a way that prevents the goats from climbing in it or pawing the food out of it. Water Troughs All goats need a source of clean water. If you dont have a lake or other body of water that is available year round, then you will need some sort of water trough. I use 55 gallon black plastic troughs with float valves to keep them full. Algae growth and mosquitoes can be a problem in water troughs. Use both chlorine bleach and copper products (the type they use to control algae growth in lakes) to prevent this problem. If you use these products make sure they are safe for human or animal consumption, and be careful not to add so much that you harm your goats. The copper products can also be helpful if you are in a copper deficient area. Fences If you can make the place water-tight you should be able to keep your goats in. Actually, I havent found it that difficult to keep goats in under typical commercial conditions. If you are not overstocked/overcrowded goats are usually pretty respectful of a fence. You run into problems when the stuff on the other side of the fence looks better to eat than what you have on your side of the fence. The bigger problem is keeping them from getting stuck in the fence so you dont have to spend your entire life removing goats from the fence. I have found a hot wire run about a foot to 18 inches off the ground 8-12 inches inside the fence to be effective in keeping the goats from sticking their head through the fence or rubbing on the fence. Goat raising requires low capital but increases farm income. Farmers in Pangasinans Balungao town proved that they can earn more in goat raising using technologies acquired during a six-month training on effective goat management initiated by the Philippine Council for

Agriculture, Forestry and Natural Resources Research and Development, International Livestock Research Institute, and International Fund for Agricultural Development. The three agencies invited Dr. Emilio M. Cruz, director of Central Luzon State Universitys small ruminant center in Munoz, Nueva Ecija to serve as member of a project on the control of gastrointestinal parasites in small ruminants in South and Southeast Asia. After analyzing the cost and return in goat raising, Cruz explained that an initial investment of P32,000 can mean extra income of at least P14,800 in sales of goat stock after two years. This computation assumes that a goat raiser has five does and costs P2,500 each. An 8-month-old doe can give birth to a kid in five months and it can have up to three kids in two years, tripling the number of goats. Cruz stressed that goats adapt well to existing farming systems and feed on forages and other farm by-products although goat raisers also use feed concentrates that cost P8 per kilogram. A goat consumes 150-gram feed concentrates per day. Goats survive in almost any environment provided its dry and feed resource is available. But a goat shed is necessary to minimize disease and parasite problems. Building a goat pen costs around P1,500. But in most villages, almost every material needed in goat pen construction is available. PCARRD-DOST, ILRI, and IFAD agree that theres an increasing demand for chevon or goat meat, and goats milk. The three agencies held the six-month training in the Farmer Livestock School on Integrated Goat Management in Balungao, Pangasinan. Eleven farmers went through the program, which also benefited other goat raisers in the town by adapting the recommended technologies. Active forums on goat and sheep raising here

A Healthy Goat
1. Step 1 Look at his eyes. They should be clear and bright. 2. Step 2 Feel and look at the coat. It should be smooth and shiny. 3. Step 3 Ask the owner about the goat's appetite and diet. 4. Step 4 Notice the goat's body language. A hunched back and droopy tail may mean he's sick.

A Dairy Goat
5. Step 1

Look at her general appearance and follow the health guidelines above. 6. Step 2 Look at the doe's bone structure. Her front legs should be wide apart, strong and straight. Her back legs should be wide apart at the hocks, with a wide, arched opening at the escutcheon area. 7. Step 3 Check her udder. It should be well-attached, without any bumps or scarring.

A Meat Goat
8. Step 1 Look for a wide, heavy-looking appearance in the leg and chest area. 9. Step 2 Feel the back. It should be flat and thick. 10. Step 3 The goat's body should have a square, blocky look. 1. Raising goats for their fibers. Wool is the most common fiber to be harvested from goats. But you can also acquire mohair and cashmere wool; both of which are usually prized for their silken texture and softness. For medium class wool, which is similar to sheep wool but only somewhat thicker, you would need to buy nigora and pygora goats (hybrid goats.) Angora goats produce mohair and cashmere goats produce cashmere wool. And these are about 100 times more expensive than the common wool. However, you can only every successfully establish a goat farm of this kind in areas that are very cold or experience near freezing temperatures. 2. Raising goats for their meat. The South African Boer goats are considered as the true meat yielding goats because of their fast growth rate, the high litter count, and their resiliency to almost all kinds of animal diseases. Very young goats are highly prized for their tender meats which are sold as fresh produce in the market. On the other hand, meat coming from older animals is usually incorporated in processed food items like cured, salted or smoked meat. Other types of meat producing breeds are the: Brush, Kiko, Myotonic (also called Fainting goats,) Spanish, and the West African Dwarf goats. 3. Raising goats for their milk. Goat milk can be used as a substitute for cow's milk because it contains fewer levels of lactose, which makes it perfect for lactose intolerant people. However, goat's milk can also be used in: buttermilk, candy, cheese (and cream cheese), clarified butterfat (ghee,) kefir (alcoholic beverage,) yogurt... or incorporated in a number of bath and beauty care products as well.

The Anglo-Nubian breed is considered as the best producers of quality goat milk. But other breeds like the: Alpine, La Mancha, Oberhasli, Saanen and Toggenburg also yield great milk outputs. 4. Raising goats as pets. Pet goats are usually chosen for their quiet and docile demeanors. However, many people choose animals that are low maintenance as well. Some of the best breeds that can be raised as home or farm pets are the: AngloNubian, Pygmy goat, and the South African Boer goat.