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Simply known as "The Cedars", this resort

settlement in Lebanon's highest range is one of the


most dramatically beautiful spots in the country.
Its centerpiece is an ancient grove of cedars, a tree
synonymous for millennia with Lebanon itself.
Just below The Cedars is the town of Bsharre,
birthplace of Gibran Khalil Gibran.
The most exciting way to get to The Cedars is
from Deir al Ahmar in the Beqaa valley. The road
snakes up the bare eastern slopes of Mount Lebanon
presenting marvelous views at every turn. As you get
higher, at the crest you look down the other side into
a gigantic bowl where the ski resort, the cedar grove
and the Qadisha gorge lie before you in a wide-angle
panorama. Plan this route for summer or fall because
snow closes the pass in winter.
A more direct way to The Cedars is from Chekka (south of Tripoli) to Bsharre.
Two roads lead from Bsharre village to the cedars, about seven kilometers up the
mountain. The older road, known for its hairpin curves, leads past the entrance path of
the Qadisha grotto. The new road, with more gentle engineering, is kept clear in winter
for painfree ascent. Whichever way you take, the vistas are beautiful, especially when
fog rises from the valley.
You first arrive at a large assortment of hotels,
chalets, night clubs and restaurants, which thought
not a village, does form a local community of
residents, visitors and local proprietors. About a
kilometer further on is the famous Cedar grove where
the road is lined with the inevitable souvenir stands
and small restaurants. the same road continues to
the ski area at 2,066 meters and goes over the
mountain and down into the Beqaa valley.
The Cedars is a resort for all seasons. In summer
the high elevation makes it a wonderful escape from Qadisha Gorge
the humid coast while in winter skiing is the favorite activity.
The Cedars in History
As remote as they are, the cedars are not
untouched by history. The grove we see today
descends from an immense primeval forest of cedars
and other trees such as cypress, pine and oak that
once covered most of Mount Lebanon including part of
its east facing slopes.
The Cedar is an historical entity mentioned often in
the Bible and other ancient texts and it played an
important part in the culture, trade and religious
observances of the ancient Middle East. Serious
exploitation of these forests began in the third
millennium B.C., coastal towns such as Byblos.
Bsharre Cedar Grove Over the centuries, Assyrians, Babylonians and
Persians made expedition to Mount Lebanon for
timber or extracted tributes of wood from the coastal
cities of Canaan-Phoenicia. The Phoenicians
themselves made use of the cedar, especially for their
merchant fleets. Solomon requested large supplies of
cedar wood, along with architects and builders from
King Hiram of Tyre to build his temple.
Nebuchadnezzar boasted on a cuneiform, inscription:
"I brought for building, mighty cedars, which I cut
down with my pure hands on Mount Lebanon". Prized
for its fragrance and durability, the length of the great
logs made cedar wood especially desirable. Cedar
Cedars of Jaj was important for shipbuilding and
was used for the roofs of the temples, to construct tombs and other major buildings.
The Egyptians used cedar resin for mummification, and pitch was extracted from
these trees for waterproofing and caulking.
In the second century A.D., the Roman Emperor Hadrian attempted to protect the
forest with boundary markers, most carved into living rock, others in the form of
separate engraved stones. Today over 200 such markers have been recorded,
allowing scholars to make an approximate reconstruction of the ancient forest
boundaries. Two of these markers, carved in abbreviated Latin, can be seen at the
American University of Beirut Museum. In the centuries after Hadrian, Lebanon's trees
were used extensively as fuel, especially for lime burning kilns. In the Middle Ages
mountain villagers cleared forests for farmland, using the wood for fuel and
construction. The Ottomans in the 19th century destroyed much of the forest cover
and during World War II British troops used the wood to build railroad between Tripoli
and Haifa.
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The Cedar Tree Itself
Of the immense forests of history only isolated patches of cedars are found in
Lebanon today. Growing at high elevations, often in craggy difficult-to-reach locations,
these majestic trees still stir the imagination.
In the north of the country, stands of cedars grow in the Horsh Ehden Nature
Preserve. More inaccessible are the trees near Hadeth al-Jubbeh, whose shape has
been changed by trimming, and the cedars near Tannourine.
In Jaj near Laqlouq isolated specimens of cedars are still scattered on the rocky
peaks above the town. Deep in the Shouf district on top of Mount Barouk, cedars
some 350 years old grow in an enclosed grove. These trees, which are in pristine
condition, can be easily admired from outside the protective wall. Above the town of
Maaser esh-Shouf, there is another cedar forest, which has an extended view of the
Beqaa valley.
Cedar trees also grow in nearby Ain Zhalta.

The most famous cedars, known as


Arz el Rab or Cedars of the Lord, are those
of Bsharre. Only in this grove, the oldest in
Lebanon, gives an accurate idea of the
stature and magnificence these trees
attained in antiquity. About 375 cedars of
great age stand in a sheltered glacial
pocket of Mount Makmel.
Four of them, many hundreds of years old,
have reached a height of 35 meters and
their trunks are between 12 and 14 meters
around. They have straight trunks and
strong branches that spread their regular
horizontal boughs like fans. Also among the
inhabitants of the forests are some The Cedar at the entrance
thousand young of the Grove
trees, planted in recent decades to ensure the future of this national resource. The
slow-growing cedar, with its long life span, requires at least 40 years before it can
even produce fertile seeds. Like any other treasure of great antiquity, the Bsharre
cedar grove requires special care and protection. Concern for this modern remnant of
historic cedars goes back to 1876 when the 102-hectare grove was surrounded by a
high stone wall.
Financed by Great Britain's Queen Victoria, the wall protects against one of the
cedar's natural enemies, the goats who enjoy feasting on young saplings.
More recently, a "Committee of the Friends of the Cedar Forest", organized in 1985, is
attempting to deal with the damage and disease - brought by both man and nature -
that afflicts the trees. To improve the general health and appearance of the forest, the
Committee has removed tons of dead wood and fertilized the soil. Various pests and
diseases are being treated and lightning rods have been installed for further
protection. Three thousand meters of attractive pathways have been built so visitors
can enjoy the grove without causing damage.
Also due for attention is a Maronite
The Cedars forest may be visited daily
chapel in the center of the forest. Built in
except Monday.
1843 when these cedars were under the
A moderate entrance fee is charged.
protection of the Patriarchate, the chapel is
Guides are available for the pleasant
the scene of a special annual celebration
walk through the grove.
on the 6th of August.
Skiing in The Cedars
The scenery and the quality of the snow make
The Cedars an exceptional skiing venue. The pistes
form a natural amphitheater, and the high elevation
means the season usually lasts from December
through April.
A French army ski school opened here in the
1930's and the handsome building, which now
belongs to the Lebanese army, can still be seen near
the cedar grove. The chair lift, installed in 1953, is no
longer in use but the main runs are equipped with
five T-bar lifts. There are also four baby slopes with
lifts. Ski rentals are available from local shops, which
also arrange ski lessons with qualified instructors.
Snack bars, hotels and restaurants service the
ski area. More facilities are available at The Cedars The Cedars Ski Resort
"village" and in Bsharre, 15 minutes down the
mountain.

In The Cedars Area


The Cedars resort is set in an area of unusual
natural and historical interest. In only 30 minutes you
can drive from the crest of the mountain which soars For details on how to visit
nearly 3,000 meters above the resort, down to the the monasteries and cave
bottom of the steep-sided Qadisha gorge at less than churches of Qadisha,
1,000 meters. Within this area are rivers, springs, see the Ministry of Tourism's
waterfalls, caves and other natural formations as well brochure, "One Day in Lebanon:
as rock-cut churches, monasteries and interesting Qadisha".
villages to visit. There is always the promise of a
friendly welcome from the hospitable people who live
there.
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If you have time
An interesting tour can be made of the villages around the horseshoe-shaped rim of
the Qadisha valley. if you are driving to The Cedars via the village of Qnat, the first
village you come to on the south side of the gorge is Hadeth al-Jubbeh, a town which
goes back to at least the early 6th century A.D. A stop here is recommended for the
wonderful view of Qadisha.
Next comes Diman, the summer residence of the Maronite Patriarch since the 19th
century. The sites overlooks the Monastery of Qannoubin, an early seat of the
Patriarchy. From Diman a steep path takes you down to the gorge.
Not far from Diman is Hasroun, a red-roofed town that
hugs the edge of the Qadisha valley. This village is known
for its picturesque dwellings, old churches and gardens.
A pleasant pathway descends from here past several
ancient churches into Qadisha valley. Bqaa Kafra,
reached via a turnoff from Bqorqacha, is the highest
village in the country at 1,600 meters.
This picturesque town is also the birthplace of Lebanon's
Saint Charbel, born in 1828.
At the head of the gorge is Bsharre the hometown of
Gibran Khalil Gibran.
The Gibran Museum in the monastery of Mar Sarkis
is open in winter from 9 am to 5 pm daily, except
Monday, and everyday in summer.
The Gibran Museum

Leaving Bsharre you go around the horseshoe to Hadchit, dramatically perched on


a ledge over the gorge. If you get off the main road and into the older part of town
you'll find traditional houses and streets, the typical town square and some old
churches.
A path starting from the lower town level, goes to
bottom of the valley. Anyone looking for souvenirs of
cedar wood would do well to stop at the workshops
of Blawza before heading up to The Cedars resort.
This small town not far from Hadchit, is also the
starting point for walks to Diman or the Qannoubin
Monastery in the valley.

On the old road between The Cedars and Bsharre


a long path on the side of the cliff leads to the small
Qadisha Grotto. Below the cave gushes out a
powerful waterfall, especially full in the spring
months. It is possible to visit the limestone
formations.
Qadisha Grotto
Climb Lebanon's Highest Peak
You can ascend the 3088-meter high
Qornet es-Sawda (or Black Horn), by foot or take
advantage of a rough track suitable for four-wheel
drive vehicles.
Allow a whole day if you want to make the entire
ascent and return by foot. The initial climb,
following the path of the chair lift, takes you about
two hours and brings you to a small hut at the end
of the lift. From here you hike north along the top
for another hour. Look for patches of last's winter
The Cedars of Barouk snow and porcupine quills along the way.
An easier way to the top is to take a road suitable for four-wheel drive vehicles that
starts at Dahr el-Qadib on the highest point on the road between the Cedars and
Yammouneh in the Beqaa. From the summit, which is marked by a large metallic
tripod, you have a panoramic view of the coast of Lebanon towards the west. It is said
that on a clear day the island of Cyprus can be seen.

Unusual Dining
From the Cedars, a summer excursion takes you east over the mountain towards
the Beqaa valley to Ouyoun Orghoch. Here tented restaurants cluster around a large
spring fed wetland where trout are farmed. Cold waters keep drinks chilled on the
warmest days. In the spring an dearly summer expect to be presented with snow
instead of ice for your arak.

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