Tonka Bean

lat. Dipterix Odorata Group: Spices

Odor profile: Very popular note coming from the Dipteryx odorata seeds where the principle aromatic constituent at a ration of 1-3% i coumarin (the scent of new mown hay with a bittersweet almond facet).

Tonka Bean is one of the most common ingredients in perfumery. These black, wrinkled seeds of the Dipteryx odorata (often mentioned as "cumaru" or "kumaru") are also found in numerous other products such as soaps or tobacco, where they are used to improve aroma. Cumaru belongs to the Fabriceae family of plants and it is native to South America. Therefore, some of the worlds largest producers are countries of this region including Brazil, Venezuela and Guyana. The name Tonka originates from Galibi language, native to population of French Guyana. The Galibi word tonqua or tonquin translates to bean.

In the Pagan and Occult tradition, Tonka bean is believed to have magical properties. Mages believe that crushed Tonka beans brewed in herbal tea may help to cure soul, relieve symptoms of depression and confusion, chase away negative thoughts and boost the immune system. It is also believed that holding the bean in one hand, while whispering a wish, leads to its fulfillment. The journey of Tonka bean to the heart of perfumery begins in 1793, when the cumaru fruit was first introduced to French people. The plant was cultivated and grown as a tropical tree with beautiful purple flowers, each containing one bean. Black Tonka beans, distinguished by their wrinkled surface, are dark brown from the inside and they spread characteristic vanilla-like flavor that reminds of the scent of cinnamon, saffron, almond and cloves. The beans are also commonly used as a replacement for vanilla and their olfactory impression has a powdery-sweet effect with intensive balmy, warm, gourmand and intoxicating character.

Tonka bean belongs to oriental category of perfumery notes. It shares some of the common characteristics with tobacco and amber, and goes well with patchouli, sandalwood, rose, lemon peel and lavender. Tonka bean absolute is obtained by soaking Tonka beans in rum and letting them sit anywhere from 12 to 24 hours. The beans are then dried to let the white crystals of coumarin appear on the surface. These powdery icy crystals are known to intensify aromas of essential oil during extraction. Coumarin was first discovered in 1868, and marked with a Latin name Dipteric Coumarou. This is the substance responsible for pleasant smell of the bean, even though it has a darker side. Coumarin is very bitter to taste, signaling that larger doses of Tonka beans may provoke serious liver damage, and even be fatal. The beans are forbidden for eating in the USA, even though numerous old recipes still list coumarin aromas for sauces, cakes and ice-creams. Nowadays, natural coumarin has been completely replaced by synthetic one. Compositions for women that contain sweet, balmy and gourmand aromas of Tonka are: Lolita Lempicka - Lolita and L, Thierry Mugler - Angel, Givenchy - Ange ou Demon, Dior Addict, Chopard Cashmir, La Prairie - Silver Rain, as well as many others, while the editions for men containing Tonka are: Thierry Mugler- A*men, Dior Fahrenheit, Jean Paul Gaultier - Le Male, YSL - L'Homme, Givenchy - Pi, Lolita Lempicka - Au Masculin etc.

Sandalwood
lat. Santalum Album Group: Woods and Mosses
Odor profile: The classic oriental woody note, milky, soft, sturdy, rich, with a green top note and a satisfying lingering scent. The best quality used to be the Mysore sandalwood variety from India, nowadays greatly reduced to the point of extinction from perfumery due to shortage of the natural material (the species is protected from harvesting because it's an endangered species). Australian sandalwood and New Caledonian sandalwood are different species with a harsher odor profile.

Sandalwood oil gives a sweet and woody fragrance and is one of the most valuable ingredients. Sandalwood is obtained from the trees of the genus Santalum. The wood is heavy and yellow in color, as well as fine-grained. It retains its fragrance for a long time. Sandalwood has been valued for its fragrance, carving, medical and religious qualities. It is used in preparing all types of perfume compositions especially Indian attars like Hina, Gulab, Kewda and Jesmine in which the natural essential oils from floral distillation are absorbed in sandalwood oil.

Common name: Sandalwood, Indian sandalwood, Fragrant sandalwood, White sandalwood, Chandan, Sandal Botanical name: Santalum album Family: Santalaceae (Sandalwood family) Origin: India, Indonesia, Ceylon, Australia, Pacific Islands, etc. The finest quality comes from the forests of India, mostly from Karnataka, Mysore, Tamil Nadu, Kerala and Andhra Pradesh. Plant Part: Wood Extraction Method: Steam Colour: Golden Orange with brown tones Consistency: Medium to Viscous Note: Base Aroma Strength: Medium HISTORY The documented use of Sandalwood goes back 4000 years to India, Egypt, Greece and Rome. Many temples and structures were built from Sandalwood. In Egypt, people used it in embalming. MYTH In India, people believed that termites never attack sandalwood. For that reason, they considered it a symbol of vitality. Sandalwood has been a part of the religious and spiritual traditions of India since prehistory and has been effectively used as a traditional medicine from ancient times.

HABITAT and DISTRIBUTION The sandalwood tree is indigenous to mountain districts of south India and the Malayan Archipelago. Plant biologists describe that tree as indigenous to southeast Asia and having been introduced into India by traders. About 90% of the world's production of sandalwood oil is from India. BOTANY Sandalwood is a small evergreen tree growing to 18 m in height and 2.4 m in girth, with slender drooping branches. The tree reaches its full maturity in 60 to 80 years, which is when the center of the slender trunk (the heartwood) has achieved its greatest oil content. The sapwood is white and odorless while the heartwood is yellowish brown and strongly scented. Leaves are 3.5 to 4 cm in length, elliptic, lanceolate glabrous and petiolate; inflorescence terminal or axillary, paniculate cyme; flowers are bisexual, many, and brownish purple in color; perianth campanulate; there are 4 stamens, exerted, alternating with 4 rounded obtuse scales. The sandal tree grows almost exclusively in the forests of Karnataka, followed by Tamil Nadu, Kerala and Andhra Pradesh (India), Timor Islands of Indonesia etc. The sandalwood tree is not felled, but is instead uprooted in the rainy season, when the roots are richer in the precious essential oil. The best quality oil comes from the Indian province of Mysore and Tamil Nadu.

BLENDS WELL WITH Sandalwood blends well with most oils. The list includes Clove Bud, Lavender, Geranium, Patchouli, Jasmine, Benzoin, Bergamot, Clary Sage, Coriander, Cypress, Fennel, Frankincense, Galbanum, Myrrh, Palmarosa, Pepper Black and Peppermint. AROMATIC DESCRIPTION Sandalwood has a rich, balsamic, sweet fragrance with delicate wood notes. The oil has a woody, exotic smell, subtle and lingering and the color is pale yellow to pale gold. CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS Sesquiterpenes; Sesquiterpenols; Sesquiterpenals; (includes 80 to 90% terpeniod alcohols including A and B-santalols [67%], which is a mixture of two primary sesquiterpenic alcohols), santalic and teresantalic acid, aldehyde, pterocarpin and hydrocarbons, isovaleric aldehyde, santene, santenone. EXTRATION and UTILISATION Sandalwood oil is obtained using steam distillation of powdered wood soaked in water for about 48 hours. Distillation is carried out at a steam pressure of 1.4-2.8 kg/cm2 for 48-75 hours. The oil content is about 10% in roots and 1.5-2% in chips which have a mixture of heartwood and sapwood.

USAGE Fragrance The fragrance of sandalwood has relaxing properties and also reduces stress and promotes restful sleep. It is reputed to be an aphrodisiac. Sandalwood oil provides perfumes with a striking woody base note. Sandalwood smells not unlike other wood scents, except it has a bright and fresh edge with few natural analogues. When used in smaller proportions in a perfume, it is an excellent fixative to enhance the other fragrances. The oil from sandalwood is widely used in the cosmetic industry and is expensive. Aromatherapy Use Sandalwood is a part of traditional medical systems such as Chinese medicine and the Indian healing science known as Ayurveda. Sandalwood is commonly used for cosmetics and skin care, being useful for dry, cracked and chapped skin, rashes and acne. It is suitable for all skin types and is non-toxic. Spiritual Use Sandalwood is used in various ways in the spiritual traditions of the India. It is considered beneficial for meditation and for calming and focusing the human mind. It is used as incense in temples or on personal altars to remind us of the fragrant realms of the heavens. Deities of various kinds are fashioned from Sandalwood, then installed in a shrine or temple or placed upon the home altar. When Sandalwood was more abundant, the wood was used to construct parts of temples. Drops of sandalwood oils can be applied to the forehead, the temples or rubbed between the eyebrows before beginning rituals. In this way, it helps to set the stage and prepare the mind to begin its inward journey. This treatment also used for meditation. Other uses Sandalwood is highly prized as a wood for carving and is also used for making souvenirs and other items requiring fine workmanship. In India, the sapwood of sandal is used for wood turning, particularly toy-making; the wood comes mainly from trimmings and immature trees killed by disease. Sawdust from heartwood prepared for distillation is valuable enough to be collected and sold for use as incense for religious purposes, as well as for scenting clothes and cupboards.

Cedar
lat. Cedrus, family Pinaceae. Group: Woods and Mosses

Odor profile: austere and somber woody note coming from either the Atlas Mountains (Morocco) or the Virginia (US) cedarwood. There are also many cedar-smelling synthetics in use. Probably the most beloved woody note in the Serge Lutens line of fragrances.

Lebanon cedar (Cedrus libani) Cedar, also known as Cedrus, is a genus of coniferous trees in the plant family Pinaceae, native to the mountains of Himalaya and the Mediterranean region. The oil obtained from cedarwood is one of the oldest ingredients used in perfumery. Cedarwood has a distinctive woody, spicy-resinous scent that has been used as a base note of many famous perfumes. Cedarwood is also one of the most commonly used perfume notes, mentioned at least once in the fragrant opus of every perfumer.

Atlas cedar (Cedrus atlantica) Cedar is an evergreen tree that grows up to 3040 meters, and has a silvery blue or greenish needle-shaped leaves tipped with yellow flowers. The bark of a tree is reddish to brown, even though a precise description depends on the type of a tree. True cedars are native to North African and Asian mountain regions, and commonly found in Lebanon, Deodar and Atlas. Lebanon Cedar (Cedrus libani) is distinguished by its cones with smooth scales; Deodar Cedar ( Cedrus deodara) has a bright green to pale green cones, while Atlas Cedar (Cedrus atlantica) has a distinctive a silvery gray bark and blue-green needled leaves. Although termed cedarwood oils, most of the oils belonging to this aromatic group are obtained from distilling junipers and cypresses rather than true cedars. For unknown reasons, the natural forests of true cedar have nearly disappeared. Even though a national flag of Lebanon features a stylized image of cedar, the most famous cedar forest in this country now includes only 375 trees. In the ancient times, this was an immense green forest that spread across the Mount Lebanon. Red Virginia cedar (Juniperus virginiana), Texas cedar (Juniperus mexicana), and Chinese cedar (Chamaecyparis funebris) are the main sources of cedarwood oil used in perfumery today. This tree contains chemical components responsible for enchanting scent of woody and ambery types of fragrances. Cedarwood is very aromatic and known to be a natural repellent to moths and other insects. For this reason, it is often used for chests that store clothing and blankets, and for shoe trees that can absorb moisture and de-odorise.

Red Virginia cedar (Juniperus virginiana) Cedar oil is obtained from the foliage, and sometimes the wood and roots of the tree. The essence is derived in the process of steam distillation with the yield from wood chips and sawdust of somewhere about 35 %. Cedar wood oil is yellowish or brown in color and has a characteristic, clean, balsamic woody odor with a pale undertone of sandalwood. The oil was used as the base for paints by the ancient Sumerians and in the ancient Egyptian embalming practices. In aromatherapy, it is used to calm and balance the energies, promote spirituality, cure urinary tract infections, clear up dandruff and help to discharge phlegm. Today, we mainly use cedarwood oil for its aromatic properties, in a range of fragrance applications.

This deep base note has a typical dry and woody scent that beautifully supports higher and cheerful mid-notes of the fragrant composition. You will not go wrong if you think of cedarwood as of a grounding note. It is very calming and pure, combines very well with citrusy notes, and often encountered in fragrances for men. One of the good examples of this note is Christopher Sheldrakes woody floral musk unisex fragrance Bois de Violette, in which cedar is combined with violet, violet and violet leaf. The whole Boix range of Serge Lutens offers note of cedar in various interpretations: orientalwoody in Bois et Fruits and Bois Oriental, tender musky in Bois et Musc, and warm and spicy in Cedre. Gourmand composition of Jo Malones Sweet Lime & Cedar uses this note to beautifully curve out sharpness of aromatic leaves, delicate flowers and spices.

Patchouli
lat. Pogostemon cablin, family Lamiaceae Group: Woods and Mosses

Odor profile: An exotic bush that grows mainly in India, the leaves of which produce the essential oil of patchouli. Sweet, dark, with an earthy, woody edge, it is very popular in many blends, especially the contemporary woody floral musks. Synthetics and fractal extractions of the material also abound.

Patchouli is a wonderful green bushy herb of the mint family. It belongs to the genus Pogostemon and grows up to two or three feet in height. The herb is graced with delicate pinkish-white flowers and aromatic leaves that have been used for centuries in perfumery, due to their wonderful and strong scent. Patchouli is native to tropical regions of Asia, but it grows well in all warm to tropical climates. Nowadays, several varieties of the Pogostemon genus are cultivated allover Asia, West Africa and South America for their aromatic oil known as patchouli oil. The name patchouli derives from the old Tamil words patchai, meaning "green", and ellai meaning "leaf". The origin of the name points out to the native land of this herb, stemming from the Dravidian language spoken mostly by Tamil people of the Indian subcontinent. The plant was brought to the Middle East along the silk route, and it was thanks to the famous conqueror Napoleon Bonaparte that patchouli reached Europe. Napoleon brought to France a couple of patchouli-scented cashmere shawls that he found in Egypt. The shawls were redolent of patchouli oil, which was used to repel insects and protect them from moths, but the origin of the scent was held as closely guarded secret. Wonderful patterns of the oriental fabrics have soon become easy to replicate, but sneaky European manufacturers were still forced to import the fragrant oil from the East. The secret was finally broken in 1837, when Francisco Manuel Blanco first described patchouli as Mentha cablin, revealing the secret of the mysterious oriental scent to the rest of the western world. The worlds major craze for patchouli happened in the Europe and America during the 1960s and 1970s. This pungent scented oil that bears a strong reference to India was typically worn by the hippies, who were often associated with the Hare Krishna movement. Unfortunately, the hippies contributed to the bad reputation of patchouli oil because they were typically wearing very bad synthetic formulations. The association of patchouli with the hippie culture finally resulted in misperception of this raw material, and for most of us today, patchouli is just a synonym for too heady, too overwhelming and too common fragrance. Here is an example taken from the UrbanDictionary: patchouli 1. 1. A plant that smells like a Grateful Dead concert. 2. 2. Not a shower, contrary to San Franciso's public policy on hygiene. 3. 3. Slang term for Filty Filthy Hippie "No hipppie, that's a bad hippie. Patchouli is not a shower!" Of course, this example only illustrates another common fallacy and everyone who seriously wishes to explore the wonderful world of perfumery should remember that patchouli is the elementary unit of the entire class of perfumes the chypre fragrances. The scent of patchouli is described as earthy and herbaceous with rich green heart and a woodsy base. The olfactory profile of patchouli oil, however, strongly depends on the cultivation techniques, time of the harvest, the process of drying and distillation techniques. The highest quality oil is obtained from only 3-4 top pairs of mature leaves, where the highest concentration of the purest oil is found. Proper drying is ensured by placing the cut stems and leaves on a dry surface and turning them over frequently to prevent rapid fermentation. When the process is complete, the leaves are stripped from the stems and placed in woven baskets to allow fermentation and release of their wonderful aroma. The final quality will also depend on the skill of the grower, who controls the level of fermentation by using his own nose. Only a small number of distilleries is specialized in production of this highly refined extract which finds its use in haute parfumerie. Patchouli oil is obtained by steam distillation or CO2-extraction of the dried leaves. The oil has a rich, balsamic and herbaceous flavor with a minty-woody undertone. Patchouli absolute is a dark green liquid obtained by the solvent extraction of dried leaves. The absolute has a rich, pronouncedly sweet and herbaceous aroma with woody-balsamic undertone. They both blend perfectly with oriental bouquets, chypre and fougre-type fragrances, and powdery perfumes. Patchouli blends well with vetiver, which contains the same earthy olfactory profile, sandalwood, cedarwood, clove, lavender, rose, labdanum, and so on. One of the most wonderful features of patchouli oil is that it becomes even better with aging. Freshly distilled oil may appear more green, tart and unmelodious in comparison to well aged oil that has a rich and full fruity-like nuance. In the opus of L Artisan Parfumeur, there are two patchouli-dominated fragrances: the oriental fragrance for women Patchouli Patch, and oriental-woody mens fragrance Voleur de Roses. The floral woody musky fragrance for women Nuits de Noho, by Bond No9, features patchouli in the top notes, while Lorenzo Villoresis unisex Patchouli offers straightforward interpretation of this herb, laid on a base of woodsy and musky notes. Let me also mention a vintage creation, Patchouli Pour Homme by Reminiscence. Launched in 1970, this fragrance features geranium, cedar and patchouli in the middle notes.

Among the oriental woody fragrances, I would single out two wonderful unisex scents: Montales Patchouli Leaves and Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens. More refined, softer, and ultimately feminine interpretation of patchouli is offered in oriental vanilla fragrance for women - Angel by Thierry Mugler.

Benzoin
lat. Styrax Tonkiniensis Group: Resins and Balsams Benzoin is an oil extracted from the Styrax Benzoin tree, produced by the tree in response to deliberate damage. It is a common ingredient in incense, perfumes, food flavoring agents and also has medicinal value as a stypic, antiseptic and an inhalant. Benzoin has remarkable fixative properties and a unique aroma reminiscent of vanilla, making it a desirable component of fragrance and incense, particularly in Asia and the Middle East.

Ylang-Ylang
lat. Cananga odorata Group: Flowers

Odor profile: rich, floral, banana-toned, jasmine nuances, sweet and narcotic, aphrodisiac and erotic.

Common Name: Ylang-Ylang Botanical Name: Cananga Odorata Plant Family: Anonaceae Genus: Cananga Species: odorata, latifolia Ylang-ylang (pronounced as "ilang-ilang") is a highly appreciated flower in perfumery and aroma therapy. This flower is blessing in disguise for many health problems.

On his website Perfumer AbdeSsalaam Attar mentions its benefits: "It is a highly valued essence both in perfumery for the power of its delicate flowery note, and in aromatherapy for its action on the nervous system in all symptoms derived from stress, such as hypertension, tachycardia and sleeplessness. From time immemorial the natives of the islands have used the flowers of ylang-ylang to treat their hair. In fact, this flower is the main ingredient of the famed Macassar oil. Ylang- ylang essence has an hormonal effect and is used in aromatherapy for the cure of many feminine problems." The original home of Cananga is probably South East Asia. However, it is now naturalized in Burma, Malaysia, Indonesia, Papua New Guinea and Pacific Islands and the Philippines. It has been introduced into tropical countries in Africa, Asia, the Caribbean and the Americas, specifically as an essential oil plant. The tree requires a moist tropical climate and grows well in rich volcanic soils or fertile sandy loams. It grows both in vine and tree form. The vine bears flowers early and more blooms with fragrance in the evening when the flowers get yellow. But both are slow growers. It also thrives well in my coastal city, Karchi. Genus Cananga has two species; C. odorata, the source of cananga and ylang-ylang oil and C. lotifolia, which produces an oil of commercial importance. The leaves are described as numerous, thin, alternate with a sharply pointed apex and a base rounded on light green petioles. Flowers are numerous, large, yellow-green, strongly scented and borne on

slender,light green stalks in axillary clusters, and have six petals with slightly recurved tips. The flowers start to droop when mature. Bird on the ylang-ylang tree by Desirade Propagation is largely by seeds and usually takes place spontaneously by means of fruits (seeds) falling of the trees or by birds eating the fruit and dropping it elsewehere. The flowering of the plant also depends on the altitudes, as at low altitudes the trees require only a few years to give an economic flower harvest, whereas, at higher and cooler altitudes (500 m above sea level) they grow much more slowly and require seven to ten years to produce flowers in quantities sufficient for harvesting. Periodic pruning of the tree has to be undertaken to prevent growth of the tree beyond 2-3 m height. Trees of more than 20 years old reach a height of about 30 m. The tree flowers throughout the year, however, the main flowering seasons are immediately after rain and during the dry season. Talking of harvesting, the question is when to harvest flowers? Initially, the flowers have little fragrance when the petals are still green and are covered with fine white hairs (which disappear with maturity). After 14-21 days, the petals become pale green, then yellow and their scent becomes progressively stronger. When a small reddish tint appears on the base of the petals, the flowers are ready for picking. The harvesting should be done during early morning hours as the flowers contain more essential oil during night, particularly just before daybreak, and as the day progresses, especially in strong sunlight, the oil content rapidly diminishes. Cananga odorata by Tatters:) Steam distillation is a preferred method for the extraction of oil. We will particularly talk about C. odorata as this is the source of cananga and ylang-ylang oil. The main use of cananga oil is in soaps, toiletries and less expensive perfumeries. Whereas, ylang-ylang oil is highly appreciated in perfumery because of its delightfuly sweet, heavenly and strong odor. Ylang-ylang oil is normally available in four grades, namely, extra, first, second and third. Extra grade oil is extensively used in high quality fragrances. When Perfumer Anya McCoy spotted Ylang-Ylang flowers blooming in her garden she shared about it on her blog, and I loved the last part so much that I asked for her permission to share it with you all. She says: ''If you live in the tropics, I urge you to grow it. The flowers have a delicate sweetness that is not present in even the best distillation, the extra grade, nor is it in ylang concrete or absolute, created with solvents. My garden is perfume heaven right now, and if you can grow this, and keep it pruned to a reasonable size, you will have a perfume heaven in your garden, also.''

I would like readers share their favourite Ylang-Ylang fragrances or anything that they like about this flower or perhaps they have learnt about it for the first time.

Myrrh (smirna)
Group: Resins and Balsams COMMON NAME: Myrrh, mur, moyao (in Chinese) PLANT FAMILY: Burseraceae GENUS: Commiphora SPECIES: There are various species, the most common amongst them are Commiphora myrrha, C.gileadensis syn.Commiphora opobalsamum. USES:

Used as incense material, medicine and perfume For centuries, whenever there has been a mention of Frankincense, Myrrh has been the one to be written next to it. Myrrh, like frankincense, has always been consumed in large quantities, both in the preparation of domestic and religious incense, in perfumed oils and as medicine, and was at periods prized much higher than Frankincense. In medical terms, myrrh has antiseptic and sedative properties. It has been mentioned in Egyptian medical texts, and in ancient Egypt it was also used for embalming alongside Frankincense.

The word mr or mur, from which myrrh is derived, means "bitter." The word probably comes from old Hebrew and Arabic. Aroma of Myrrh can be described as woody, warm, aromatic and pungent, and slightly medicinal. Like Frankincense, it is an aromatic oleo-gum-resin (Oleoresin: a natural blend of essential oil and resin). It comes from various species of the genus Commiphora of the plant family <I?BURSERACEAE< i>. Commiphora is a genus of flowering plants. Species in this genus have thorny and armed trees and shrubs which are native to northeast Africa and the adjacent areas of the Arabian Peninsula.

<I?Commiphora myrrha is the species which is commonly used in the production of myrrh. It is found in the shallow, rocky soils of Ethiopia, Kenya, Oman, Saudi Arabia and Somalia. It boasts spiny branches with scanty leaves that grow in groups of three, and can reach a height of 9 feet. Another species, Commiphora gileadensis, which is also known as balsam of Mecca or Balm of Gilead, is native to the Arabian Peninsula and has been used in the diseases of urinary tract. Its odor is faintly woody, oily-sweet and balsamic. Some other species are Commiphora erythraea, which is one of the species of opoponax, and Commiphora wightii (Mukul, Guggul), also known as Indian bdellium. It is distributed in arid areas of Bangladesh, India and Pakistan, and its use in the treatment of diseases occupies an important place in Ayurveda, the traditional medicine system of India.

BITTER MYRRH and SWEET MYRRH There is a close connection between myrrh and opoponax since both come from the genus Commiphora, hence sharing a lot of similar characteristics. However, talking of their aroma, they are like the two end points of a line. Myrrh is bitter while opoponax is sweet and a bit more pleasant and that's the reason it usually referred to as sweet myrrh. HARVEST and CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS Tapping is the method to extract resins which is done twice a year. To extract resins, an incision is made in the trunk of the tree, which pierces gum resin reservoirs located in it. The incisions are made all the way up from the root to those of the branches that are strong enough to bear it. The sap slowly oozes from the incisions and drips down the bark, forming tear-shaped droplets that are left to harden on the side of the tree. These droplets flow as pale yellow liquid, but harden to reddish-brown masses of many sizes, the average being that of a walnut.

These hardened beads like droplets are then collected after two weeks. Myrrh is said to be of good quality if it comes in small pieces of irregular shape, the surface is rough and powdered, the pieces are brittle and show white marks like fingernails when they are broken. Chemical constituents are volatile oil, resin (myrrhin), gum, ash, salts, sulphates, benzoates, malates, and acetates of potassa. Resinous materials like Frankincense and Myrrh are used either to make essential oil or resin absolute. The oil is extracted by steam distillation and the absolute by alcohol extraction. MYRRH in FRAGRANCES The myrrh note is best used in oriental fragrances and complements well, with a little darkness, the luminous and cheerful characteristics of the oriental vibe. Myrrhiad by perfumer Pierre Guillaume is all about myrrh. It has been made with three more notes to complement which are licorice, vanilla and black tea absolute.

Olibanum (Frankincense) (tamaie)

lat. Boswellia carterii (Burseraceae) Group: Resins and Balsams Common name: Frankincense, Olibanum, Luban Plant family: Burseraceae Genus: Boswellia Specie: With respect to frankincense, Boswellia Sacra is the most common Uses: Incense, medicine, toothpaste, embalm, insect repellent, fragrance "and when they had opened their treasures, they presented unto him gifts; gold, and frankincense and myrrh" The Three Wise Men: The traditional telling of the Christmas story includes a key moment where Wise men from the East arrive and present the Christ child with gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh. This brief mention of frankincense is usually the first and most common encounter that most people have with this special substance.

Frankincense, also called Olibanum, Levonah, Luban and Khunk, is an aromatic, congealed, resinous sap from a specific variety of trees in the genus Boswellia of the family Burseraceae. Most of the trees in the Boswellia genus are aromatic, and many of them produce a scented resinous sap. Some of the known species are B. Sacra (grows in Oman and Yemen), B. Carterii (Somalia), B.Thurifera (Africa, Yemen and countries around the Red Sea), B. frereana (northern Somalia), B. Papyrifera (Ethiopia, Eritrea and Sudan) and B.Serrata (India). According to the latest scientific opinion both B.Sacra and B.Carterii are the same and should be correctly called B.Sacra. Boswelia sacra, produces the highest grade of frankincense. Frankincense trees grow to about 20ft. in height (8m) with branches often beginning near its base. The common Oman, Aden (Yemen), and Somalia species, B. sacra / B. carteri, produce small yellow-white colored flowers with five petals, while the African B. papyrifera and B. thurifera produce small pale-red flowers. Each are a favorite among bees and produce small fruits which are fed to livestock. But it's the trees' resin that's been treasured for thousands of years for its aromatic and medicinal uses.

The trees require an arid climate where moisture is provided by morning mist. The few ideal environments in the world for this small prized tree are found in Southern Arabia (Oman and Yemen), India, and Northern Africa (Somalia, Ethiopia, Eritrea and Kenya). Further, frankincense trees require a limestone-rich soil and are mostly found growing on rocky hillsides and cliffs, or in the dried riverbeds below. How is Frankincense resin harvested and distilled? The highest quality Frankincense essential oil is distilled from the resin. The resin comes from inside the tree, under the bark. To collect frankincense properly, a slow and carefully executed process must be followed. The process can only take place twice a year - once in the spring (March to May) and then again in the fall (September to October) and takes two weeks.

Harvesting the resin requires a specially designed knife - A week before the harvest begins, strategic slashes are made in the outer bark which allow the liquid resin to ooze out. Another harvesting method used is to simply scrape away portions of the bark without making deep incisions and allowing the resin to flow from this wound. When the resin hits the oxygen, it starts to crystallize and harden. These hardened resins are called tears. The longer it is left on the tree, the harder it gets. It takes about a week for the resin to harden up enough to be cut it off as a hardened resin crystal. It takes another week to come back and collect the crystal resin. This process produces different types and grades of frankincense resins. Frankincense quality is based on color, purity, aroma, age, and in some cases, where it is grown affects the quality. The first grade of frankincense resin is the most common. It is a brownish resin that has a great deal of bark particles in it. After all the process the crystal resin goes into the distillery where it is crushed into powder, put into an oil bath, and steam distilled to extract the oil from the crystal resin.

The gum resin of Frankincense contains Boswellic acids and other pentacyclic triterpens, which have a chemical structure that closely resembels that of steroids. The Highest Grade of Frankincense The rarest and the purest of the all frankincense is Boswellia sacra. It is considered the highest grade of frankincense. It grows in the Dhofar region of Oman and this very special frankincense was reserved just for the kings and queens. This species has a higher content of the constituent alpha pinene. Uses The most common use of frankincense is as an incense and it is why it is referred to as incense by many rather then frankincense.

The aromatic qualities of frankincense have been used in a variety of ways over the centuries, including use in religious ceremonies, burial rituals and embalming. The smoke from burning frankincense is effective for driving away mosquitoes and other pests, thereby reducing incidences of malaria.

The Egyptians took the aromatic qualities of frankincense even farther, and used it in the embalming process. Part of the process of mummification involved the removal of the viscera, which were then placed in special containers. Large quantities of frankincense were then packed into the body cavities to prevent decomposition, and to mask the odor.

It is also used as deodorant, as toothpaste, as a flavoring for food and drink. The granules of frankincense, the frankincense smoke, and frankincense dissolved in water are all used in various forms to treat a variety of ailments including nausea, indigestion, chest coughs, hypertension, and post-childbirth recovery.

Frankincense has been shown to cause anti-depressive behavior in mice. It activated the poorly understood ion channels in the brain to alleviate anxiety and depression. Perfumes recommendation:

Chant d'Aromes Guerlain Aoud Damascus Montale Louban Montale Aqaba Classic Arome d'Egypte DSH Monsieur mon Amour Atelier Flou Song of Songs Ayala Moriel

Vetiver
lat. Vetiveria Zizanoid Other names: vetivert, khus Group: Woods and Mosses

Odor profile: Essence from the Eastern Asian weed grass Vetiveria zizanoid that falls under the woods category thanks to its musty, dry, woody scent with bitter chocolate and smoke facets. Very popular in niche perfumery and masculine fragrances. The reference vetivers are Carven's, Givenchy's and Guerlain's classic renditions.

VETIVER A COOL FRAGRANCE The best features of vetiver, the aromatic verdancy, the fragrant rootiness, the subtle, refreshing citrusiness, the enjoyable earthiness, a wonderful hint of woodiness, and a certain Guerlainesque leathery-ambery darkness in the drydown. Vetiver oil is obtained by steam distillation of roots of vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides). The oil is one of the finest oriental perfumes with a persistent fragrance. In blended perfumes oil of vetiver acts as an excellent fixatives for volatile compounds. It is known for its cooling properties.

HABITAT A commercially large population of Khas (Vetiver) grass grows in wet and damp environments over marshy places and riverbanks. The plant has a unique characteristic of being xerophyte (tolerates prolonged drought) but it survive under long seasonal flooding; it tolerates extreme temperature and grows over a wide range of soil pH. The grass grows luxuriantly in areas with an annual rainfall of 800 -2000 mm and temperature ranging from 22 to 400 C. Marshy riverbeds with sandy loam are best suited for this grass. BOTANY Common name: Vetiver Botanical Name Vetiveria zizanioides Family: Gramineae / Poaceae This family is known as the grass and the nutritious family. It is so named because the plant members are grasses and the plants are known for their ability to provide nutrients to the soil. Other common names Akar Wangi - fragrant root - name used in Java, Khus Khus aromatic root - name used in India, Oil of tranquility - name used in Sri Lanka.

Vetiver is a tall (1.5-2.0 m) perennial grass. It has a small stout rhizomatous stolen which gives rise to spongy, fibrous, dense roots system. Roots have aromatic properties and grow 20-30 cm deep in medium textured marginal soils under cultivation. Tremendous diversity exists with respect to pattern of growth, orientation and thickness of roots, as well as for occurrence of secondary roots. The bast region of root is the source of essential oil. The leaves are linear, narrow, erect, grassy, keeled with glabrous joint scabrid margins. Inflorescence is a panicle, up to 15-45 cm long, bearing numerous racemes in whorl on a central axis. The lower spikelets are reduced to lamena. The upper spikelets are narrow, acute, appressed, awnless, green, grey or purplish in colour, 4-6 mm long, arranged in pairs. One floret in spike is sessile and bisexual; this bisexual floret has a glabrous callus, 3 stamens and 2 plumose stigmas. The other floret is pedicelled and staminate. Java vetiver is non flowering type has broader leaves (1.1 mm), medium thick stems, bushy growth bearing flowers with high pollen sterility; the plants give out more branching roots with higher oil content and the oil is dextro-rotatory in nature. HISTORY and MYTH Vetiver has a long and rich history. In India it has been used to make blinds necessary to keep out the intense heat. When the blinds are sprinkled with water they emit the vetiver scent. In Java the root has been used for centuries in weaving mats and thatching huts. The Vetiver root is used in folk magic for its purported ability to provide safety and increase financial resources. A ritual designed to promote personal safety calls for inhaling Vetiver while visualizing ones body as being sealed off from negative energies.

COUNTRIES of ORIGIN

Vetiver is native to South India, Indonesia and Sri Lanka. It is also cultivated in Reunion, the Philippines, the Comoro Islands, Japan, West Africa and South America. The oil is mainly produced in Java, Haiti and Reunion.

PERFUME IN ITS OWN RIGHT (COOLING PERFUME) In World market the demand for vetiver oil is increasing day by day due to its unique odour, for which it is used in both flavour and fragrance industries. Moreover, this oil cannot be substituted with reconstituted oil and cannot be made through synthetically. Vetiver perfumes give pleasing aroma and has slow evaporation rate. Pure vetiver (Khus) root oil known in trade as Ruh Khus and its use in scents since ancient time. Vetiver oil is the basis of the Indian perfume Majmua and is the major ingredient in some 36% of all western perfumes (e.g. Caleche, Chanel No. 5, Dioressence , Parure, Opium ) and 20% of all mens fragrances.

Its complex chemical composition and oil odour, high solubility in alcohol that improves its miscibility with other perfumery material, makes it a unique perfumery resource for which no synthetic substitute is yet available. In addition to its own perfumery value on account of vetiver hydrocarbons compounds and carbonyl compounds, their alcohol derivatives i.e. vetiverols lend unique position to vetiver oil for perfumery applications as a valuable resource. Also, vetiverol could be acetylated with acetic anhydride to produce vetiveryl acetate. Both vetiverols and acetates have softer odours and fixative qualities, and are used as blender with high-class perfumery products. They blend well with ionone, linalool, cinnamic alcohol, oakmoss, vanila, sandalwood, patchouli and rose bases, and are frequently used in western type of fragrances having chypre, fougere, rose, violet and amber aldehyde base, and oriental fragrances and floral compounds. In addition to its direct perfumery applications, vetiver oil in its diluted form is extensively used in after-shave lotions, air freshners and bathing purposes, as well as flavoring syrups, ice cream, cosmetic and food preservation. Khus essence is used in cool drinks, and for reducing pungency of chewing tobacco preparations, providing sweet note to other masticatories and incense sticks. OTHER USES Vetiver oil is used in perfumery, cosmetics and soaps and for flavouring sherbets (Indian cool drinks). Dried roots are also used to perfume the linen cloths. The roots have been used for making screens, mats, hand fans and baskets. The screens are hung like curtains in the houses and when sprinkled water, impart a fragrant coolness to the air; they are in great demand during the summer. For desert coolers in summer in North India. Roots for preparing Sherbet or soft drink during summer, especially in North India.

Osmanthus
Group: Flowers
Odor profile: apricot-smelling blossom, soft, pliable, sensuous, from an exotic plant cherished in the East. Pairs well with lactonic florals.

Osmanthus blossoms, though not as popular in the West as some other flowers more commonly found, have the olfactory beauty of an intricate dentelle of fruity-leathery smells evoking plums, apricots and prunes hidden in the suede pouch upon a warrior-poets belt, as if taken out of a Chinese vignette. It's hard not to be enraptured by their at once complex and delicate scent once you experience it and they lend their delightful and refined aroma in many a perfume composition.

BOTANY AND TRADITIONAL USES Osmanthus fragrans (Sweet Osmanthus) or / guhu in Chinese and/ Kinmokusei in Japanese is another member of the Oleaceae family (like olive or lilac) and its fresh and highly fragrant aroma is a natural wonder professing a

nuanced texture. Also known as "Tea Olive" (because olive is the pre-eminent member of the Oleaceae family) it is the emblem flower of Hangzhou, China. It is especially valued as an additive for tea and other beverages in the Far East where usually the aromatic extract comes from the golden yellow flowers variety. This is because the variant Osmanthus fragrans Lour. var thunbergii has more carotenoids in its chemical make-up which contribute both to the sunnier colouring as well as the enhanced aroma. The flowers are also used to produce osmanthus-scented jam (called gu hu jing). THE CHEMICAL ANGLE According to Leffingwell: "While the flowers of osmanthus range from silver-white (Osmanthus fragrans Lour. var. latifolius Mak.) to gold-orange (Osmanthus fragrans Lour. var. thunbergii Mak.) to reddish (Osmanthus fragrans Lour. var. aurantiacus Mak.), the extract (alcohol absolute) is usually prepared from the gold-orange flowers. Osmanthus absolute is very expensive (~U.S. $4000.00 per kilogram) and accordingly is used in only the most expensive perfumes and flavors.

Various workers have examined the different colored varieties and find that the gold-orange variety (e.g., Osmanthus fragrans Lour. var thunbergii ) tends to have more of the desirous notes and tend to be higher in carotenoid derived materials. Among the carotenoids of Osmanthus are all trans-beta-Carotene, all trans-alpha-Carotene and Neo-betacarotene B. In addition to cis-jasmone, gamma-decalactone and various delta-lactones which contribute to the flavor of Osmanthus, an extensive number of ionone derivatives and Theaspirane derivatives derived from carotenoids are present." OSMANTHUS IN PERFUMERY Osmanthus absolute is indeed an expensive raw material for the perfumer, but worth investing in due to its unique olfactory profile: Highly fragrant and succulent in its peachy-apricoty top note it is nothing short of mouthwatering. The effect of the natural flower is undoubtedly enhanced with a synthesized apricoty creamy note (benzylaldehyde, aldehyde C16, amyl butyrate), giving an almost velours effect. The essence of osmanthus naturally contains cis-jasmone (a white floral note), gamma-decalactone and various delta-lactones (peachy-milky notes) as well as several ionones derivates, which accounts for its violet-like sweetness.

Synthesized essences are essential to reinforce and extend the fruity nuance of the real blossoms in most commercial formulae, while the underpinning with suede-like materials gives depth and sensuality. FRAGRANCES WITH OSMANTHUS NOTES: Aubusson Desirade Aubusson Histoire d'Amour Ayala Moriel Kinmokusei Badgley Mischka by Badley Mischka Bidjan DNA Calvin Klein Escape Davidoff Echo for women Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Estee Lauder Beautiful Love Escada Sunny Frutti Fendi Theorema Gap Dream Givenchy L'Interdit (2003 re-issue) Gucci Flora Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan Hove Tea Olive Jean Patou 1000 Keiko Mecheri Osmanthus Kenzo Jungle Le Tigre Lancome Benghal (travel exclusive) Marcela Borghese Il Bacio Michael Kors by Micheal Kors

Narciso Rodriguez Narciso for Her (recreated note) Nina Ricci Deci Dela Oleg Cassini Cassini Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus Oscar de la Renta Volupte Parfums d'Empire Osmanthus interdite Providence Perfumes Osmanthus Oolong Roger & Gallet Fleurs d'Osmanthus Serge Lutens Datura Noir The Different Company Osmanthus Tous Touch

Massoia
lat. Cryptocarya massoy (Lauraceae) Group: Woods and Mosses
Odor profile: Milky-smelling wood note, famously used in Santal Massoia in the boutique line of Hermes, the Hermessences.

Massoia is a tropical tree native to New Guinea. This medium-sized tree grows in rain-forests at 400 m to 1000 m altitude. The bark of the tree is aromatic and has a pleasant sweet, coconut-like flavor. The bark is used for production of massoia bark oil, which is obtained through steam distillation. Massoia has been used in traditional medicine of New Guinea, but it has also been an article of commerce between many Asian nations.

Brazilian Rosewood
lat. Dalbergia nigra Other names: Bois de Rose Group: Woods and Mosses
Odor profile: Popular woody note that gives a lightly rosy, fragrant tonality to both masculine and feminine perfumes.

Brazilian Rosewood is actually a member of the legume species. It grows only in Brazil and is a threatened species due to loss of its native habitat. The Dalbergia nigra tree produces a hard wood known for its beautiful aroma as well as the the beauty of its intense and varied colors, ranging from brick red to dark violet brown, with the most desirable woods possessing a random pattern of lines referred to as "spider webbing." The wood offers a unique resonance and is therefore prized for the making of guitars, lutes and other musical instruments. Its durability also made it a popular choice for furniture.

Guaiac Wood
lat. Bulnesia sarmienti Other names: Palo Santo, Champaca Wood, Palo Balsamo Group: Woods and Mosses
Odor profile: Exotic wood note that has tar-like, phenolic facets, imparting smoky, tarmac notes in perfumes. Coming from the Palo Santo or Tree of Life tree. Very popular in niche perfumery.

Guaiac Wood is a small tree that is also known as guayacan. Guaiac Wood is one of the hardest and most resilient woods in the world. This wood has been used by Native Americans since 16th century in treatment of severe ailments such as herpes and syphilis. This tradition is where from the local name for Guaiac Wood - Palo Santo or Tree of Life - originates from. Guaiac Wood is typically used for engraving work and for the making of durable wooden posts. Its heartwood is brown, black or green, with elegant streaks. It also provides high-quality charcoal and a good timber.

Amyris (santal amyris)

Other names: Torchwood Group: Flowers

Odor profile: A name referring to either amyris elemifera or amyris balsamifera. The fragrance Amyris by Francis Kurkdjian uses the name as a fantasy woody concept, instead of representing the plant in photorealism.

Amyris is a genus of flowering pants that form part of the Citrus family Rutaceae. Members of this family are commonly known as "torchwoods" due to their highly-flammable wood. The trunks of all Amyris species exude a balsam called "Elemi," which is known for its beautiful aroma and which is used extensively in the cosmetics and fragrance industry.

Magnolia
lat. Magnolia grandiflora (Magnoliaceae) Group: Flowers
Odor profile: waxy lemony tinged floral, fresh and lush at the same time

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_MagnolBlooming Magnolias in the springtime are a spectacular sight. The magnolia

family accounts for about 200 species distributed mainly in two regions: Asia (from the Himalayas through China to Japan, and Southeast Asia) and the Americas. Magnolia was named after French botanist Pierre Magnol , the man behind the current scheme of botanical classification. Magnolia is believed to be one of the most ancient flowering plants. Dinosaurs saw Magnolias blossoming. There were no bees back then but beetles, creatures three times older than the magnolia, extracted the magnolias protein-rich pollen, as they still do nowadays. Magnolia is a significant flower in Chinese and Japanese culture, and has been cultivated there for centuries. Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora) has been the official state flower (emblem) of Louisiana since July 12,1900. Mississippi is known as the "Magnolia State," where Magnolia has been the official state flower since 1952 and the official state tree since 1938. Magnolia Virginiana species from Virginia was the first Magnolia in Europe. It was sent in 1687 by the English missionary and naturalist John Banister to Henry Compton, English bishop and a great gardener of his day. Soon after discovering the American species, the Western world was introduced to Chinese Magnolias ( Magnolia Denudata and Liliflora) and then to the beautiful Star Magnolia (Stellata) from Japan in the mid-nineteenth century. One of the most exciting discoveries was the "queen of Magnolias"-- pink Magnolia Campbellii from the Himalaya at the beginning of the previous century.

Bergamot
lat. Citrus aurantium subsp. bergamia Other names: Bergamot Orange Group: Citrus
Odor profile: citrusy, bitter and sour, elegant light note, complex with nuances of fruit and aromatic elements, reminiscent of eau de Cologne, flavors Earl Grey tea.

Bergamot orange (Citrus aurantium var. bergamia) is a small, roughly per-shaped citrus fruit, which grows on small trees known as bergamots. It is a cross between pear lemon and Seville orange or grapefruit. Production of bergamot is mostly limited to the Ioanion, coastal region of the province of Reggio Calabria, South Italy, where the soil and climatic conditions are very favourable for its cultivation. It is also cultivated in Ivory Coast, Argentina and Brazil, but in no other part of the world does it fructify with the same yield and quality of essence. Bergamot is named after Italian city of Bergamo, in which its oil was first sold, and it has become a symbol of the entire region and city. This fruit is not edible and is cultivated for production of its essential oil. The essential oil of bergamot is expressed from the ripe fruit peel and is used extensively in perfumery for its sweet freshness. Bergamot oil is also used for flavouring purposes, e.g. Earl Grey tea and the so called althea drops, candy-making, in aroma therapy to treat depression, and also as digestive aid. Its scent is fruity-sweet with mild spicy note. Bergamot oil is used in production of both female and male perfumes, and in most fragrance groups, mainly in top notes. It was a component of the original Eau de Cologne developed in Germany in the 17th century, and today is used in different proportions in almost all modern perfumes. Perfumes of the so-called Chypre and Fougre types are not possible without bergamot oil.

Neroli
Other names: Orange Oil, Bitter Orange Oil, Orange Blossom Water, Orange Flower Water Group: Flowers
Odor profile: citrusy, light, slightly bitter, hints of orange and honey blossom floral facets, purifying, aromatic, romantic.

Orange Blossom is a fragrant distillation of fresh bitter-orange flower. This orange, also known as sour orange, is usually too sour to be enjoyed out of hand, but this very same bitterness makes this type of orange much more aromatic than the rest of the orange varieties. Almost all parts of bitter orange are used to produce beautiful and aromatic materials for the fragrance industry: the essential oil is derived from peel of a fruit, orange leaves are used in production of Petitgrain oil, while delicate white flowers serve in production of Neroli and Orange Blossom absolute. The bitter orange tree (Citrus aurantium) is widely grown in the western parts of India, eastern Africa and Himalayas. Spaniards brought sour orange into St. Augustine, Florida, in the mid-1500s. By 1763, sour oranges were being exported from St. Augustine to England, setting the grounds for what is Florida today - one of the worlds largest producers of oranges. This state even uses the orange blossom as the official state symbol since May 5, 1909. During the orange blossom time, in spring, millions of delicate waxy white flowers scent the air throughout central and south Florida. Being one of the most fragrant flowers, orange blossoms are an indispensible material in perfume industry.

Orange flowers have been used in wedding traditions since the times of ancient China. In Chinese tradition, orange flowers were omens of purity, innocence and moral virtue, but also a symbol of fruitfulness and fertility. Brides of all nations have always worn some kind of a floral embellishment on their wedding day, and the tradition of using orange flowers has spread from the East to Europe, during the times of the Crusaders. Maidens have used fresh orange blossoms to decorate their hair on a wedding day, and this custom was so widespread that that the expression "to gather orange blossoms" took completely different connotation by starting to mean "to seek a wife".

Fragrant flowers of bitter orange are used in production of Orange Blossom and Neroli extracts. Even though these fragrant notes possess different olfactory characteristics, the only thing that distinguishes them one from another is a different process of extraction. This example clearly illustrates the importance of technology used in production of raw materials since these two materials, even they originate from the same type of flower, have completely different properties. Orange blossom absolute is obtained by solvent extraction as a concrete, and using alcohol washing and filtering in the form of an absolute. Neroli is obtained by steam-distillation of freshly picked flowers. Neroli oil has beautiful aromatic fragrance that leans a bit towards fresh and green petitgrain. Orange blossom absolute, on the other hand, has deeper and sweet fragrance that strongly reminds of the heady scent of fresh flowers, intoxicating and overwhelming, it feels close to the scent of jasmine (as it actually shares some of the common chemical components with this flower, Methyl anthranilate, for example).

Orange blossom absolute is used in many different types of fragrances and especially in colognes, chypres, ambers, floral bouquets, and heavy orientals. It beautifully complements all other citrusy notes and acts as a natural fixative, allowing the original composition to last longer while keeping its true fragrance. An amazing orange blossom fragrance is Fleurs D'Oranger by Serge Lutens. Sweet, delicate, soft and feminine, this fragrance offers an intoxicating bouquet of white flowers coupled with a single fresh greeny rose. Jo Malone's Orange Blossom cologne, with its heart of orange blossom and water lily, is another great example of this note, while Yardleys Orange Blossom, designed to highlight modern notes of fragrances inspired by English flowers, offers wonderful and sophisticated combination of orange blossom and sensual musk. Fleur du Mle by Jean Paul Gaultier, named after the Baudelaires collection of poems, uses orange blossom in a decadent and flowery, slightly feminine composition, designed especially for men.