MAKING OF A PERFUME

‘Perfumare’ is a Latin word from which the word “perfume” is derived which means ‘to smoke
through’. Ancient Egyptians are the introducers of perfumes in the world. Egyptians uses
perfumes to celebrate prayers, religious ceremonies. They use essential oils, perfumed unguents
as well as resins to make a beautiful fragranced atmosphere. Egyptians have a spirituality that by
burning oils and unguents were necessary to ensure divinities' protection and benevolence.
Way back in 1200 BC, a chemist named “Tapputi” was the first lady who extracted perfumes
and documented the technique and procedure in cuneiform tablets. Also Indian Ayurveda also
introduced many techniques like Charaka Samhita and Shisruta Samhita, distillation process of
‘Ittar’ or perfume.

There are 175 kinds of fragrance ingredients to make a perfume but basically they are made on
the basis of client’s brief as well as personal demand. Some commonly used essential oils are:
 Uplifting Lemon Essential Oil.
 Bright Potent Zesty Orange Essential Oil.
 Sharp Tangy Grapefruit Essential Oil.
 Bergamot – The Finest Flower Of Citrus.
 Soothing Calming Lavender Oil.
 Pungent Herbaceous Lemongrass.
 Warm Sweet Exotic Clove.
 Sweet Hot Cinnamon Essential Oil.
 NOTES IN PERFUME
The smell hit in the first spray which stays only for 15-20 minutes is what we called as the top
note of a perfume. This is the lighter, airier smell which permeates through the air and hits you.
Generally citrus and fruity smells are included in top notes by various brands but some also opt
light floral such as lavender to make a different spirit of the perfume.

Once the effect of the top note clears off, you can smell the heart of the perfume, which is its
main essence. These notes will start to emanate around half an hour after you spray on the
perfume, and last for around four hours. The most common heart notes tend to be heavy florals,
as these give the fragrance the most distinctive smell when they associate with your skin
chemistry.
When you wake up the morning after you’ve used a perfume, there is always a lingering, familiar
smell that it leaves behind. These are the base notes – which start coming to the forefront once
the heart notes start fading and can last until around 12 hours after spraying on the perfume.
Typical base notes include heavy smells like musk, woody scents and herbs like vanilla and
vetiver. 

PROCESS OF MAKING PERFUME

Making a perfume or fragrance is not tough as the process is effortless. Initially, oil is extracted
from natural stuff such as fruits, flowers as well as wood via some techniques such as cold
extraction, distillation, maceration and enfleurage. Afterwards, blending procedure presumes
where extracted oil has been blend with the alcohol and afterwards water is added gradually in a
desired proportion. Perfume is like wine - the more expensive varieties are left to age for months,
or sometimes even years after the final blending happens until they are bottled and finally sold.

COLD EXTRACTION:
This extraction method is employed for bush, daffodil, or Polianthes tuberosa, flowers that area unit too
fragile to be heated. It consisted of spreading a layer of fat at temperature on a plate enclosed by a
picket frame. Flowers mustn't be exposed to high temperatures to not amendment their fragrance.

The flowers' area unit initial sorted to stay solely the freshest of them, then placed manually, one by
one, on the fat for concerning twenty-four hours. Then fat absorbs their scents. The operation has got to
be continual many times, till the fat is saturated with the scent of the flowers, that area unit then
removed by hand.

At the tip of the method, the fat is collected with a spatula then washed with alcohol in separation
machines. This makes it potential to separate it from the odorous molecules and acquire a
precious "ointment absolute” once evaporation.
The enfleurage gave excellent results and produced very high quality fragrances. Unfortunately, the
process, which was very expensive and complex, was largely abandoned (except for a few
manufacturers who still use this process, in a traditional and confidential way).

DISTILLATION METHOD:
Distillation may be a common technique for getting aromatic compounds from plants, like orange
blossoms and roses. The material is heated and also the sweet-smelling compounds square measure re-
collected through condensation of the distilled vapor. Distilled product, whether or not through steam
or dry distillation square measure notable either as essential oils or ottos.

Today, most typical essential oils, like lavender, peppermint, and eucalyptus, square measure distilled.

Raw stuff, consisting of the flowers, leaves, wood, bark, roots, seeds, or peel, is place into Associate in
Nursing retort (distillation apparatus) over water.
Steam from boiling water is knowledgeable the material for 60–105 minutes, that drives out most of
their volatile sweet-smelling compounds. The atmospheric phenomenon from
distillation, that contain each water and also the aromatics, is settled in a very metropolis flask. this
permits for the simple separation of the sweet-smelling oils from the water because the oil can float
to the highest of the liquid wherever it's removed, forgoing the watery liquid. The water collected from
the atmospheric phenomenon, that retains a number of the sweet-smelling compounds and oils from
the material, is named hydrosol and is typically oversubscribed for client and business use.
This technique is most ordinarily used for contemporary plant materials like flowers, leaves, and
stems. fashionable hydrosols square measure essence, lavender water, and orange blossom
water. several plant hydrosols have unpleasant smells and square measure thus not oversubscribed.
dry/ fractional process additionally referred to as rectification, the raw materials square
measure directly heated in a very still while not a carrier solvent like water. sweet-smelling compounds
that square measure discharged from the material by the high heat usually bear anhydrous shift, which
ends within the formation of various sweet-smelling compounds, and so completely different sweet-
smelling notes. This technique is employed to get sweet-smelling compounds from fossil
amber Associate in Nursingd sweet-smelling woods (such as birch tar) wherever an intentional "burned"
or "toasted" odour is desired.
Through the utilization of a fractionation column, completely different fractions distilled from a cloth will
be by selection excluded to govern the scent of the ultimate product. though the
merchandise is dearer, this can be generally performed to get rid of unpleasant or undesirable scents
of a cloth and affords the maker additional management over their composition method. {this is|this
is usually|this can be} often performed as a second tread on material that has already been
extracted instead of on material.

MACERATION PROCEDURE:

Maceration is among the foremost usually used ways for scents extraction for

perfumery functions. it's used for the extraction of fragrance ingredients
from several plants still as all notes of animal origin. it's a way within which the material is
diluted in an exceedingly solvent that extracts the scented parts. nowadays totally
different solvents are used (like alcohol, for instance). The solvent extracts the scent from the
plant so it’s gaseous through heating. at the moment the fragrance note is separated with the
assistance of alcohol.