1 pound = 0.45359237 kilograms 1 US fluid ounce (oz) = 29.

5735296 ml
Reteta sapun natural handmade pentru uz general fabricat prin metoda la rece 450 g ulei de masline 400 g ulei de palmier 200 g ulei de cocos 329 g apa distilata rece 146 g soda caustica 20 ml ulei esential la alegere menta,scortisoara, melissa,geraniu sau lavanda. Inainte de a incepe ,va rog sa vizionati acest videoclip (http://blog.sapunzain.ro/faochiarturetetesapunnaturalcreme/retetesapunnaturali/) Se cantareste apa distilata,apoi soda care se va turna peste apa (niciodata invers) .Se cantaresc apoi pe rand uleiurile si se varsa toate in acelasi recipient. Cu termometrul se va masura tenperatura celor doua compozitii care TREBUIE SA FIE ACEEASI , adica 38 grade. Trebuie sa aduceti atat soda cat si uleiurile la aceeasi temperatura ! Dupa ce treceti de aceasta etapa ,veti varsa solutia de apa cu soda peste amestecul de uleiuri si incepeti mixarea cu blenderul . In cateva minute (510) compozitia incepe sa se ingroase ,ceea ce inseamna ca sunteti aproape de turnarea in forma a sapunului. In aceasta etapa puteti incorpora uleiurile esentiale ,dupa care turnati compozitia in forma tapetata cu hartie cerata. Dupa ce ati turnat sapunul in forma ,lasatio intrun loc caldut,ferit de umezeala ,infasurat intro patura sau prosop vechi. Dupa 24 de ore ,sapunul va fi suficient de tare pentru al putea taia. ATENTIE ! nu utilizati sapunul decat dupa 23 saptamani minim. Retete sapun natural III catina ,scortisoara si portocale Aroma imbatatoare si cu totul speciala a scortisoarei iti ofera o senzatie de confort si relaxare. Adaosul de ulei esential de Portocale va mai indulci putin aroma puternica a scortisoarei,rezultand un miros caruia greu poti sai rezisti. La ocazii speciale sau asa pur si simplu , va veti putea surprinde rudele,prietenii cu un cadou original oferindule sapunuri naturale facute chiar de mana voastra! Am explicat intrun articol anterior,atunci cand am oferit prima reteta,toate etapele premergatoare fabricarii propriu zise a sapunului natural,aici. 200 g ulei palmier 300 g ulei cocos 300 g ulei masline 200 g ulei de migdale dulci 145,64 g soda caustica 328 g apa distilata/ 164 1 sticluta 10 ml ulei esential de Scortisoara 2 sticlute 10 ml ulei esential de Portocale Acesta este sapunul natural cu scortisoara si portocale facut chiar de mine dupa aceasta reteta.

Am folosit o forma din lemn si dupa cum se vede in imagine,are doua culori.Am turnat jumatate din compozitie in forma,am asteptat 10 minute pentru a se intari compozitia deja turnata,timp in care am amestecat continuu cantitatea de sapun ramasa si in care am adaugat 30 g ulei din seminte de catina presat la rece.Dupa cele 10 minute,am adaugat si restul cantitatii de sapun si in final am obtinut sapunul pe care il vedeti in imagine. Astfel obtii un sapun natural 3 in 1. Miros fabulos,cremos si cu efecte extrem de benefice asupra pielii,un aport important la asta avand ULEIUL DIN SEMINTE DE CATINA care este unul dintre cele mai eficiente uleiuri din cate exista cel mai bogat in vitamina E,mai contine vitamina A,K,D si C(in mod natural) stimuleaza si imbunatateste circulatia sangelui,favorizeaza vindecarea diferitelor afectiuni ale pielii,regenerant cutanat,impiedica pierderea apei la nivelul pielii. De retinut este ca aceasta planta creste pe toate drumurile si la noi in tara iar uleiul din seminte de catina poate fi achizitionat din multe locuri magazine tip plafar,targuri cu produse traditionale,etc. Uleiul din seminte de catina presat la rece arata ca in imaginea de mai sus culoarea sa este portocaliu intens. Pentru a te bucura de proprietatile sale benefice asupra pielii,sapunul natural cu ulei de catina trebuie sa contina o cantitate suficient de mare de ulei astfel incat sa coloreze sapunul asa cum vedeti in imaginea cu sapunul fabricat de mine. Retete sapun natural terapeutic II Am sa va ofer astazi o reteta de SAPUN NATURAL cu galbenele fabricat prin metoda la rece . Am explicat in articolul anterior,atunci cand am oferit prima reteta,toate etapele premergatoare fabricarii propriuzise a sapunului natural,aici. ulei palmier = 66o g ulei infuzat cu galbenele = 22o g (metoda de preparare ) ulei cocos = 170 g soda caustica = 133 g apa distilata = 299 g petale uscate de galbenele = 2 lingurite ,fara adaos de uleiuri esentiale Dupa cum se observa ,am adaugat mai mult ulei de palmier pentru a da in mod natural o culoare deschisa sapunului ,asa cum se observa in imaginea de sus. Ideal ar fi sa folositi o forma din lemn in care sa turnati sapunul. Taierea calupului de sapun se face astfel: Veti obtine un sapun natural terapeutic cu multiple beneficii pentru piele.Este destinat bebelusilor,persoanelor cu piele sensibila,uscata,fragila, crapata. A se lasa la uscat intrun loc racoros cel putin 3 saptamani inainte de utilizare. Veti obtine un sapun natural terapeutic cu multiple beneficii pentru piele.Este destinat bebelusilor,persoanelor cu piele sensibila,uscata,fragila, crapata. A se lasa la uscat intrun loc racoros cel putin 3 saptamani inainte de utilizare. Reteta sapun natural IV metoda la temperatura camerei De data aceasta voi oferi o reteta de sapun natural care se fabrica dupa o alta metoda,una mai facila,cred eu, insa inainte este absolut obligatoriu sa te fi familiarizat deja cu metoda clasica la rece. Informatii legate de aceasta metoda,inclusiv retete de sapun natural,gasesti aici. la fabricarea sapunului nnatural prin metoda la temperatura camerei nu ai nevoie de masurarea temperaturilor,deci fara termometru. Ce poate fi mai simplu? Diferenta consta in faptul ca reteta de fabricare va contine peste 50% din cantitatea de grasimi,uleiuri solide la temperatura camerei si unturi vegetale. Iata reteta pentru 1200 grame uleiuri de data asta in procente : unt de cacao 15% 180 g ulei de cocos 20% 240g ulei de palmier 25% 300 g ulei de masline 40% 480 g apa distilata 382,5 g soda caustica 170 g Cantitatea de uleiuri ce se va adauga dupa ce amestecul de uleiuri,soda si apa va lasa urme ,este : ulei de ricin 20 g ulei de avocado 40 g Se cantaresc mai intai uleiurile solide cocos,palmier si unt de cacao si se pun impreuna intrun recipient metalic. Apoi se cantaresc intrun alt recipient celelalte uleiuri (in cazul nostru ,uleiul de masline) .

Se trece apoi la cantarirea apei ,dupa care se va cantari soda si se va amesteca usor,putin cate putin ,cu apa.Amesteca in continuare pana ce se dizolva toata soda si devine clara,transparenta solutia. Peste compozitia de apa cu soda, toarna cantitatea de uleiuri si unturi solide deja cantarita si incepe amestecarea lor. Acest procedeu va dura 1015 minute,timp in care unturile si uleiurile se vor topi si evident,solutia de soda cu apa se va raci suficient de mult,fara a mai avea nevoie de termometru. Pana in momentul topirii complete a unturilor si uleiurilor solide,solutia se va ingrosa putin. La final,dupa ce sau topit ,iar solutia sa racit suficient, se toarma uleiul de masline peste compozitie si se trece la mixare. In acest caz,mixarea va dura mult mai putin in comparatie cu metoda clasica la rece (cu masurarea temperaturii). La final,se adauga cantitatea de uleiuri cantarita anterior (ricin+ avocado) si pentru aroma ,uleiuri esentiale la alegere aprox. 30ml sau daca doresti ca sapunul natural sa aiba un miros mai puternic,mai suplimentezi cu 10 ml cantitatea de uleiuri esentiale. Toarna compozitia in forma tapetata cu hartie cerata. Dupa ce ai turnat sapunul in forma ,laso intrun loc caldut,ferit de umezeala ,infasurat intro patura sau prosop vechi. Dupa 24 de ore ,sapunul va fi suficient de tare pentru al putea taia. ATENTIE ! nu utiliza sapunul decat dupa 23 saptamani minim. Vei obtine astfel un sapun natural de buna calitate, cu o consistenta tare, spuma din belsug si hidratare intensa a pielii. Pentru orice informatie suplimentara ,iti stau la dispozitie.Imi poti lasa un comentariu aici,la acest articol,iar eu iti voi raspunde in cel mai scurt timp posibil. Indici de saponificare uleiuri Am sa va ofer o lista cu cele mai importante uleiuri folosite la fabricarea manuala a sapunului natural si indicii de saponificare ai fiecaruia. Poate ca te intrebi ceo fi cu saponificarea asta? Credema ,e simplu si se rezuma la cantitatea necesara de soda pentru a neutraliza complet un gram din uleiul respectiv. Practic ,orice grasime poate fi folosita la fabricarea sapunului natural, cu o singura conditie sa gasesti indicele de saponificare al acesteia. Eu fabric sapun doar din uleiuri vegetale si am sa iti ofer mai joc lista cu cele mai utilizate uleiuri impreuna cu indicii de saponificare. ulei de floarea soarelui 0,134 ulei de masline 0,135 ulei de cocos 0,19 ulei de palmier 0,141 ulei de ricin 0,128 ulei de avocado 0,132 ulei de porumb 0,136 unt de cacao 0,137 ulei de migdale dulci 0,136 ulei de samburi de struguri 0,129 unt de shea 0,128 slanina de porc 0,141 ulei de germeni de grau 0,132 ulei de argan 0,134 unt de babassu 0,175 Atentie ! La calcularea unei retete de sapun natural ESTE FOARTE IMPORTANT sa respecti acesti indici,altfel ,incercarea ta de a face sapun,va fi un esec total. cantitatea de ulei in functie de indicele de saponificare ,se calculeaza astfel : cantitate ulei x indice saponificare = cantitate soda caustica necesara Unturi & uleiuri vegetale despre cum le folosim si proprietatile lor Datorit coninutului mare de substane active terapeutice, unturile si uleiurile vegetale ocupa locul 1 n topul ingredientelor folosite n domeniul cosmeticelor naturale alaturi de fructe, legume, argila i apa.Din cele mai vechi timpuri acestea au fost utilizate sub diferite forme pentru ntreinerea tenului i a pielii. Va voi oferi informatii despre cele mai utilizate unturi si uleiuri vegetale beneficiile lor asupra pielii si sper sa va trezesc interesul in a alege sa va ingrijiti intrun mod natural si cat se poate de sanatos. Ulei de cocos Bio virgin nu intamplator lam ales primul .Dupa parerea mea ,in calitate de fabricant al produselor cosmetice naturale, acest ulei este best off este extrem de eficient si multilateral poate fi utilizat in ingrijirea pielii (inclusiv cea a bebelusilor) si a parului ,fiind apreciat si pentru parfumul sau fin,exotic.Odata ce ai inceput sal folosesti ,practic suprima nevoia de a mai utiliza produsele cosmetice existente pe piata si care sunt pline de derivati

petrolieri extrem de daunatori pentru piele , care constituie de multe ori cauza aparitiei diferitelor tipuri de cancer ale pielii.Uleiul de cocos este o modalitate eficienta de a reduce expunerea la toxine fara sa sacrifici nimic,ba mai mult,vei beneficia de o frumusete naturala mult mai mult timp. Pentru maximizarea efectelor,este important sa alegi un produs care este presat la rece,nerafinat,daca se poate organic,Bio care sa fie practic foarte putin procesat. Uleiul de cocos virgin Bio este obtinut prin prima presare la rece a fructului proaspat si vei fi spurprins sa observi ca uleiul se gaseste intro stare solida, pentru al putea folosi,va trebui sal incalzesti putin,cea mai buna metoda este introducerea recipientului cu ulei sub un jet de apa calda ,timp de un minut. Apoi il poti folosi fara grija atat pe fata cat si pe tot corpul.Rezultate foarte bune sau obtinut in tratarea acneei si exemelor cu uleiul din nuca de cocos datorita proprietatilor sale naturale antibacteriene,antivirale si antifungice. Nu lasa o senzatie de gras la aplicarea pe piele,avand o absorbtie foarte buna,lasa senzatia de uscat,pielea devenind fina,catifelata si stralucitoare. O veste foarte buna petru cei care adora masajul,este aceea ca uleiul poate fi folosit fara teama ca acesta ar lasa urme grase pe haine. Este bun pentru orice tip de ten,nu are contraindicatii,este hidratant,nutritiv,emolient,catifelant si contribuie la restaurarea barierei hidrolipidica,la prevenirea si tratarea ridurilor. Rezultate la fel de bune vei obtine si in tratarea parului ,prin aplicarea unei masti cu ulei de cocos cu doua ore inainte de a te spala pe cap (daca ai rabdare, poti sa stai chiar mai mult de doua ore cu uleiul pe capul infasurat cu un prosop),acest procedeu avand ca efect prevenirea sau tratarea caderii parului, hidratarea parului de tip uscat,disciplinarea parului cret sau rebel. Uleiul din nuca de cocos este uimitor, deoarece il poti utiliza si bucatarie la gatit sau copt (de preferat este sa utilizezi un ulei de cocos fara miros)siiii pentru ca este un ulei saturat, este cel mai sigur ulei ce poate fi utilizat la temperaturi foarte ridicate.Nuti poti imagina cat de buni sunt cartofii prajiti in uleiul de cocos,sfatul meu este sa incerci ! De asemenea uleiul este indicat a fi folosit in curele de slabire,inlocuind cu succes orice alt tip de ulei, efectul fiind scaderea in greutate sau mentinerea acesteia.Persoanele ce sufera de boli de inima ar trebui sa foloseasca numai ulei de cocos marele avantaj fiind acela ca nu se depune pe vasele de sange. Iti pot recomanda doua creme naturale cu ulei de cocos Bio virgin prima este hidratanta ,pentru orice tip de ten,destinata persoanelor cu varsta cuprinsa intre 2070 ani ,o poti cumpara aici si a doua este o crema antirid ,pentru orice tip de ten,destinata persoanelor cu varsta peste 30 ani,pe care o poti cumpara aici. Untul de cacao Constituie in mod cert iesirea din impas a tututror ,atunci cand vine vorba de o ingrijire naturala a pielii. In ceea ce ma priveste ,a fost dragoste la prima atingere,la care sa adaugat si mirosul absolut irezistibil de ciocolata.E clar, neam saturat sa tot dam banii pe cutii de crema aspectoase ,cu etichete frumos colorate in roz iar continutul lor cu aspect alb sa fie de fapt negru de otrava pentru corp. Revenim incet dar sigur acolo de unde am plecat LA NATURA. Ce este untul de cacao ? Untul de cacao este un produs natural extras prin macinare a boabelor de cacao fermentate si presate mecanic.Este unul dintre cele mai stabile unturi ,avand o perioada de garantie ce depaseste doi ani.Asta se datoreaza continutului mare de antioxidanti. Foarte bogat in Vitamina E , untul de cacao ajuta la calmarea, hidratarea si echilibrarea pielii si ofera colagenul care combate ridurile si alte semne ale imbatranirii Contine Teobromina, activ ce apartine aceleiasi clase ca si cafeina , ce are efect lipolitic(celulita, exces de tesut adipos).De asemeni,Resveratrolul, fitosterolii si squalanul, compusi activi naturali ai untului de cacao sunt recunoscuti si renumiti pentru proprietatile extraordinare de regenerare.Este excelent pentru pielea uscata sau pentu cea ridata,uscata,cu aspect imbatranit. Un sfat pentru femeile insarcinate folositi cremele naturale ce au in compozitie o cantitate mare de unt de cacao pielea voasta va fi hidratata,stralucitoare si protejata de aparitia vergeturilor ! Veti scapa cu siguranta de stresul achizitionarii unui costum de baie care sa acopere dezastrul provocat de intinderea pielii in timpul sarcinii. Untul de cacao este un produs natural pe care il gasiti in majoritatea preparatelor mele cosmetice Balsam reparator pentru piele Touch of nature,Balsam de corp pentru masaj anticelulitic,balsamul pentru buze,cremele pentru ingrijirea manilor si picioarelor. Untul de Shea este obtinut din nucile arborelui Shea Karite ce creste si se dezvolta doar in Africa si care rodeste abia dupa 15 ani. Natura nea binecuvantat cu acest minunat dar ,care se numeste unt de shea unul dintre cele mai eficiente si apreciate unturi in industria cosmeticelor naturale, fiind recunoscut in intreaga lume pentru multiplele sale proprietati asupra pielii si parului. Untul de SHEA nerafinat este best off si doar acest tip de unt isi pastreaza toate proprietatile. Contine vitaminele A,K,E,F ,minerale,fitosteroli,numerosi acizi grasi, chiar si latex . Are o consistenta solida chiar si la temperatura camerei,insa odata aplicat pe piele se topeste si devine fin,cremos. Mirosul sau nu este tocmai pe placul tuturor, in acceptiunea noastra ,il putem asemana cu mirosul nucilor usor afumate. De multe ori ,untul de Shea crud contine

anumite impuritati rezultate din fabricarea acestuia ,aproape in totalitate manual. Dar, de ceva ani ,aceasta problema a mirosului si impuritatilor sa reolvat, acum exista pe piata untul de shea FILTRAT prin filtre de lut ,ceea ce ii atenueaza mirosul ,il face mai fin iar culoarea este galben auriu. Personal ador acest unt de shea filtrat care isi pastreaza intacte toate calitatile ,ba mai mult de atat e mai fin,intra mai usor in piele iar mirosul acela este mult atenuat. Acest UNT DE SHEA poate fi achizitionat in magazinul nostru online, la un pret foarte bun. Proprietati : puternic regenerant al pielii imbatranite,ridate,uscate,penetrant ,cu factor de protectie UV,anti inflamator,cicatrizant,accelereaza vindecarea ranilor si a crapaturilor pielii mainilor si picioarelor. Untul de shea este recomandat pentru toate tipurile de piele dar in special pentru cea uscata sau imbatranita. Se poate folosi ca atare pe piele sau in amestec cu alte unturi si uleiuri vegetale .Previne si reduce cu succes vergeturile . Practic, se poate utiliza in creme,unturi de corp,balsamuri de buze,unguente pentru masaj,masca pentru parul uscat sau pentru stimularea cresterii parului. Merita fiecare banut,credema si incearca nu vei regreta ! Uleiul de AVOCADO este originar din Mexic si America de Sud si este fabricat din pulpa fructului ,nu din seminte sau coaja si care contine foarte putine grasimi. Culoarea sa verde intens te cucereste pe loc ,iar mirosul sau natural este unul destul de placut spre deosebire de alte uleiuri. Acest ulei este utilizat atat in alimentatie,cat si in cosmetica multumim naturii din nou pentru generoasele sale daruri. Uleiul de avocado contine vitaminele A,C ,D si E, proteine,betacaroten,lecitina,steroli,polisteroli si potasiu. Este usor absorbit de piele,hidrateaza in profunzime pielea ,ceea ce il face un rpodus foarte eficient si cu utilizare zilnica.Utilitatea lui este dovedita si in tratarea unor probleme de piele psoriazis,prurit,eczeme calmand senzatia de mancarime si/sau usscaciune a pielii. Uleiul de avocado este unul dintre cele mai bune uleiuri pentru par hraneste,protejeaza si stimuleaza cresterea. Previne si trateaza caderea parului, protejeaza parul vopsit. Vezi cat de simplu este sa alegi o frumusete naturala? O simpla masca pentru par ce contine pe langa ulei de avocado ,ulei de masline si ulei de cocos ,iti poate readuce supletea si vigoare parului tau! Uleiul de avocado poate fi utilizat ca atare ,direct pe piele sau in diverse lotiuni pentru masaj,protectie solara ,creme,balsamuri sau in compozitii destinate ingrijirii pelii sensibile sau mature. Poti cumpara Ulei de avocado presat la rece in magazinul nostru online . De asmeni ,sapunurile naturale marca ZainBeauty contin o cantitate generoasa de ulei de avocado. Reteta sapun natural cu lapte de capra Ma bucur foarte mult sa constat ca sunt din ce in ce mai multi oameni care aleg sa fabrice la ei acasa,propriul sapun natural din uleiuri vegetale.Asta inseamna ca se vor bucura pe termen lung de efectele benefice ale produselor de ingrijire din ingrediente naturale si implicit,isi vor putea pastra tineretea si frumusetea pielii o perioada lunga de timp. Corect utilizate,produsele de ingrijire si infrumusetare din ingrediente naturale, te ajuta sa arati mai tanara cu 10 ani,ce zici? Nu e deloc rau! Voi vorbi pe larg despre asta intrun articol viitor. Am promis ca voi oferi o reteta de sapun natural cu lapte de capra si asa cum stii deja,este o reteta incercata de mine(la fel ca toate celelalte retete oferite) si care,daca respecti toate indicatiile ,va fi una reusita. Vei obtine cel mai bun sapun natural din cate exista datorita calitatilor extraordinare ale laptelui de capra ,calitati pe care le va transfera in sapun. ulei de masline 500 g ulei de palmier 250 g ulei de cocos 250 g ulei din germeni de grau 50 g pe care il vei amesteca la sfarsit,ma refer aici la surplusil de gasimi de 5% soda caustica puritate 99% 143 g lapte de capra 322 g Inainte de a fi folosit la fabricarea sapunului,laptele de capra se va pastra la congelator pana devine complet inghetat. Se va scoate din congelator inainte cu 12 ore ,de a incepe fabriarea sapunului. Probabil ca laptele va fi inca inghetat, asa ca sfaramal in bucatele mici cu un cutit si apoi cantareste cantitatea necesara. Dupa ce ai cantarit soda, incepi so amesteci cu laptele treptat si in cantitati mici in mai multe randuri torni soda si amesteci,apoi torni din nou o cantitate mica de soda si iar amesteci, repeti procedeul pana la terminarea intregii cantitati de soda necesara.Amestecul rezultat va fi unul mai inchis la culoare,in tente de crem pana la caramel. Nu te speria,in prima etapa va mirosi destul de neplacut insa acest miros nu se va regasi in produsul finit sapunul natural. In continuare se trece la cantarirea si amestecarea uleiurilor,procedeul fiind deja prezentat de mine aici. Dupa aducerea la aceeasi temperatura atat a uleiurilor cat si a amestecului de soda si lapte 40 grade se va trece la amestecarea acestora cu ajutorul unui blender timp de 510 minute.

Tips 1.Daca vrei ca sapunul sa nusi schimbe culoarea ,poti folosi apa in proportie de 25 % din totalul cantitatii de lapte astfel Masori intai apa ,torni toata cantitatea de soda odata,o lasi putin sa se raceasca,apoi torni laptele.Astfel sapunul va ramane deschis la culoare. 2. Cumpara laptele de capra direct de la producatori !(ciobani,taranii din piata,cunostinte care cresc capre).

La sfarsit se adauga cantitatea de uleiuri esentiale preferate si se toarna in forma pregatita sfatul meu este sa folosesti forme din lemn.Din experienta mea de producator,iti spun ca formele de lemn sunt cele mai bune pentru realizarea procesului de saponificare in mod corect. De aceea la mine vei cumpara in mare parte sapunuri naturale in forma clasica eu folosesc in proportie de 80% forme din lemn. Sapunul rezultat va fi unul foarte cremos,hidratant,bland,non alergenic. Laptele de capr, supranumit i elixirul alb, este unul dintre cele mai valoroase ingrediente folosite la fabricarea produselor cosmetice naturale, datorit proprietilor sale de necontestat conine calciu, magneziu, fosfor, vitaminele A, B1, B2, C, hidrateaz i catifeleaz, reduce iritaiile i echilibreaz PHul pielii. Reeta spunului cu cafea de la atelier Aa cum am promis, revin cu reeta spunului ce lam fcut la atelierul de fcut spun de cas susinut la Stanciova n 19 iunie. Nu voi descrie cu foarte multe amnunte tot procedeul. Vei gsi la sfritul articolului un link spre un tutorial excelent. Aadar, pentru spunul de la workshop am folosit: Ulei de cocos 240g Untur 320g Ulei de orez 160 g Ulei de msline pomace 80 g (cantitate total uleiuri: 800 g) Sod caustic (NaOH) 114 g Ap distilat 304 g Nui prjitur, e calupul de spun dup ce lam scos din caserol.

i aa arta imediat dup ce lam tiat. Acum e i mai nchis la culoare partea cu cafea. Am procedat dup cum urmeaz:

Am nclzit uleiurile pn sau topit uleiurile solide (cel de cocos i untura). n timpul sta am dizolvat soda n ap. Atenie! Mereu se pune soda n ap, nu invers! Apoi leam lsat s se rceasc pn au ajuns amndou pe la 40 grade celsius (testat cu degetul n ulei, cu degetul pe borcanul de sod. Trebuie s fie un pic mai cald dect temperatura corpului). Am turnat amestecul de ap cu sod peste uleiuri i am amestecat, la nceput cu o lingur, apoi cu blenderul, pn cnd a ajuns la consistena unei budinci. Apoi am turnat jumtate n caserola pe care o pregtisem, iar n cealalt jumtate am pus cteva lingurie din cafeaua lui Teo (ideea lui Luci!), am mai amestecat cu blenderul pn la omogenizare, apoi am turnat uor peste cealalt parte a spunului care deja era n caserol. Nam pus uleiuri eseniale pentru c leam uitat acas, dar acum, la o sptmn i o zi de la facerea lui miroase fain, a prjitur cu cafea. Spunul lam scos din caserol a 2a zi: sa ntrit foarte fain, deabia am reuit sl tai, dar mai trebuie s stea la uscat timp de 3 sptmni (sau 2, c a trecut deja o sptmn). Oricum, cu ct st mai mult, cu att e mai bun. Spun natural cteva reete de succes Oamenii fabric spun nc de acum 3000 de ani. Acesta este rezultatul reaciei a trei elemente pure: sod, grsime i lichid (ap sau lapte). Aceasta reacie poart denumirea de saponificare. Soda caustic este materia prim, alturi de grsime, i trebuie manipulat cu atenie deoarece poate produce arsuri. De aceea este indicat s ai n apropiere o sticla de oet pentru a neutraliza soda n cazul n care ai intrat n contact cu ea. Nu exist o metod de a produce spun fr folosirea sodei caustice. Important de reinut este c poi obine spun natural folosind sod caustic, aceasta neregsinduse n produsul finit, dac respeci reeta i se cntresc ingredientele cu mare precizie. Spunul produs nu conine sod caustic nereacionat, deoarece majoritatea spunurilor fabricate au un exces de grsime optim intre 5 si 8%, astfel nct s nu existe sod nereactionat i s nu usuce pielea. Tot n acest scop, se las spunul la uscat circa 3 sptmni nainte de al folosi. Excesul de sod caustic n spun va ridica nivelul pHului, astfel pielea poate fi iritat sau chiar ars. Dac este prea puin sod caustic, spunul va fi prea gras, pielea devenind unsuroas. Pe lng ingredientele principale, pentru a particulariza spunul i ai mbunti proprietile, pot fi adugate diverse elemente: uleiuri eseniale de plante medicinale i aromatice, parfum, colorani, petale de flori, coji de fructe etc. Soda caustic se dizolv n ap i nu viceversa. Atenie la acest proces exoterm, cci soluia se va nclzi i va produce vapori toxici de care ar trebui s te fereti att tu, ct i eventuale animale de cas. Recomandat este s pori mnui i s produci spun natural ntro ncapere bine aerisit. nclzete uleiul i msoar temperatura. Att temperatura uleiului, ct i a sodei trebuie s fie in intervalul 37 43 grade Celsius. n momentul n care uleiul i soluia de sod caustic au aceeai temperatur se adaug soluia de sod caustic peste ulei. Se amestec pn ce compoziia se ngroa de consistena unei budinci mai subiri. Se adaug uleiurile eseniale, parfumul, plantele, trele, petale de flori, coji de fructe sau chiar buci de fructe uscate i se amestec n compoziie pentru ca aromele s se rspndeasc uniform.

Se pune spunul n forma tapetat cu hrtie cerat i se acoper cu un prosop sau o ptur. Se las 1848 ore, timp n care continu reacia de saponificare. n acest interval, spunul trece printro stare de gel dup care revine la starea opac. Spunul va continua s se ncalzeasc nc cteva ore. Dup 24 ore spunul este suficient de tare astfel nct poate fi tiat. Dup ce a fost tiat, va fi lsat la uscat cel puin 34 sptmni nainte de a se folosi, timp necesar pentru ca toate reaciile chimice s se ncheie. Recomandat este s testezi pHul spunului natural, folosind hrtie indicator sau fenolftalein. Spunul poate fi folosit n siguran dac prezint un pH ntre 7 i 9.5.

Uleiul: n principiu, spunul poate fi realizat din orice tip de ulei. Fiecare ulei folosit imprim spunului anumite caliti: spun tare sau moale, spum persistent, curare eficient, etc. De aceea este bine a se combina mai multe tipuri de ulei. Personal, nclin pentru combinaia ulei de palmier, msline, cocos i ricin. Pentru fermitate, este bine a avea n compozitie un ulei ce se gsete n stare solid la temperatura obinuit: ulei de palmier, ulei de cocos sau unt de cacao. Aceste uleiuri sunt printre cele mai folosite i mai usor de gsit pe piaa romneasc. Apa: se va folosi doar ap distilat sau ap de izvor, deoarece apa de la robinet conine ioni care pot afecta rezultatul. Cantitatea de ap necesar dilurii sodei caustice trebuie s fie 2535% din cantitatea total de ulei. n cazul spunurilor transparente (aa numitele de glicerin), acestea conin o cantitate suplimentar de glicerin precum i alcool i zahr pentru a deveni transparent. n industria cosmetic glicerina este folosit n majoritatea cremelor hidratante, pe post de agent de mentinere a hidratrii. O alt calitate important a glicerinei este aceea c, fiind prezent i n organismul uman, ea nu determin reacii alergice. Spun natural cu lavand i tre Ingrediente: 900 ml ulei de msline 600 ml ulei de cocos 190 g sod caustic 400 ml ceai de pelin 2 linguri tre 4 linguri ulei de cnep 15 ml ulei esenial lavand (ylang ylang sau lemongrass) Spun natural cu ment i cafea Ingrediente: 140 ml ap distilat 450 ml ulei de palmier 340 ml ulei de msline 170 ml ulei de cocos 30 g unt de shea 2 lingure zahr 2 lingurie sare 2 linguri boabe cafea 200 g cafea mcinat 5 lingurie ulei esenial de ment Spun natural cu trandafir i cacao Ingrediente: 230 ml ulei de cocos 110 g unt de cacao 300 ml ulei de msline 110 ml ulei de palmier 400 ml ceai (urzic, papdie, mcese, busuioc, tei) sau ap distilat 50 ml ulei esenial de trandafiri, jojoba, ment, salvie, camfor sau santal (in functie de preferinte) 2 lingurie cacao 150 g sod caustic Spun natural cu plante medicinale Ingrediente: 680 g ap rece 340 g soda caustic 1560 g ulei de msline 453 g ulei de palmier 453 g ulei de cocos La aceast cantitate de uleiuri sa folosit roini (Melissa officinalis) n jur de 56 de ml. Se poate aduga la urm 1/4 ceac de capete de mueel tocat si 1/4 ceasc de petale de glbenele. Se poate folosi

ulei de ctin sau suc de morcovi pentru o culoare mai glbuie. Acestea conin betacaroten. Se pot aduga cca 34 linguri de frunze mrunite i uscate de ment i rozmarin sau ulei esenial din fiecare cca 20 ml. Mult timp dup tiere spunul miroase curat, a plante. Making Hot Process Soap in a Crock Pot

I made famous soap today. Well, my soap isnt famous, but the recipe is. Sort of. In a soapy kind of way. It is a Hot Process Crock Pot, Oatmeal & Honey Castile soap recipe, known interchangeably as Kalebs Oatmeal & Honey Castile or Bunnys Castile. Soapers (people who make homemade soap) will understand what I just wrote, but for those normal folks out there who still havent nodded off, allow me to translate into English: In (extreme) brief, there are two basic ways to make soap at homecold process and hot process: Cold Process: Combine oil(s) with a solution of water and sodium hydroxide (lye). Hot Process: Combine oil(s) with a solution of water and sodium hydroxide (lye) and cook. One method of hot process is the Crock Pot Method. Simply, you do the aforementioned cooking in a crock pot. A crock pot is desirable for this because it cooks slowly and evenly and is less likely to scorch. Why one method over another? Many people do both, and some are strictly cpers only or hpers only. Cold process soaps tend to be smoother textured and take the fine details of a mold better than hot process. Hot process is favored by some because the cooking completes the saponification process and allows for a shorter cure time than cp soap. Some prefer the hp texturerustic and handmade. Finally, Castile soap is olive oil soap. That was easy. Well, not so fast. Castile also sometimes refers to soap made with vegetable oil only and no animal fat, especially if a high percentage of that oil is olive. Castile soap is mild, conditioning, and noncomedogenic. It takes a long time to cure (412 months), but once it is cured it makes a very hard, durable, and, in my opinion, superior bar. Okay, back to the famous soap recipe. You can read all about it on the Latherings Forum, including the recipe itself and several soapers experiences with making it, including a few problems along the way. Suffice it to say that the word on soap street is that its great, and I had to try it. I am not quoting the recipe here because I think going to the forum with all its tips and caveats and anecdotal information is the best place to be when trying it out. Here follows my first experience with this recipe:

These are the ingredients all spread outolive oil, a little bit of castor oil, sodium hydroxide, water, oatmeal flour, & honey. Thats all it takes.

Gloves and Goggles! Dont hurt yourself. Soap making is not rocket science, but it can be tricky and it has its safety issues. Here is one place to get up to speed on how to be safe. Heres another.

I put the olive oil in the crock pot and added the castor oil to it. The lye goes into the water, not the other way around or you may get a volcano/explosion. Visualize snow falling on a lake to remember. Stir to dissolve the lye completely.

 Then the lye/water goes into the oils.

As I gave it a stir, the oil went from clear to opaque. The saponification process had begun.

I used an immersion blender to bring the mixture to trace. Trace is the point at which the mixture goes from liquid to puddingy and a trace of the mixture will remain on the surface of the pudding for a bit when drizzled on the top. It

took about 15 minutes. (Side note: If this were Cold Process, this would be the final step before adding the honey and oatmeal and pouring into the mold(s). But we are hot processing today, and so the story continues. . . )

I put on the cover and stirred occasionally.

After about 1520 minutes it began to look like this:

I kept stirring periodically. It eventually went from foam on the edges to completely foamedover:

I stirred it back down and observed the separation phase. It looked like an oily, curdled soup. I let it cook just a wee bit longer before turning off the heat and adding my honey and oatmeal.

In goes a slurry of 3 tablespoons of oat flour blended with a couple of tablespoons water (stir with fingers to make sure no lumps) and 3 tablespoons honey.

The mixture darkens a bit an thickens a little.

Now it was supposedly ready to mold. Never having HPd before, I molded it up while it was still very liquidy. I am not sure how long I should have cooked it. Perhaps it was undercooked, perhaps it was overcooked. Perhaps the oil/lye ratio needed tweaking. Possibly the soap fairies were working a bit of mischief. All I know it was an oily, separated soup.

This wouldnt do. I spooned it back out of the mold into the crock pot and did the only thing I could think of: I re blended it with the immersion blender. And what do you know? The stuff set up immediately. A few short bursts with the blender and a bit of stirring to make sure it was homogenized and it went back in the mold.

Soap Guillotine:

Next day, it was solid enough to cut. I put it in my homemade

 It made 11 very thick, big bars. They will lighten up in color somewhat as they dry, but they are still probably darker than the perfect Bunnys Castile, though I have never seen a photo of anyone elses. If you have tried this and have a pic, I would love to see it and hear your comments on what I did wrong. The soap was still oilier than I am used to in cold process. I would use this recipe again with caution. I think it is going to cure out very nicely, but it may take a while. Some people use their hot process soaps almost immediately, especially if they are not using olive oil, but I think this castile is going to need a good few months to reach its full potential. I can tell that it is already much milder than my cold process soaps at this point (day two)the cold process soaps can be mildly caustic to the skin for weeksthis soap isnt. For anyone trying out hot process (or cold process for that matter) for the first time, I would recommend starting with a recipe with no additives such as the honey and oatmeal in this case. They tend to complicate matters. I must say, though, that this soap smells good enough to eat. It makes my mouth water every time I go near it. This site has an excellent tutorial on how to line your soap molds. Basically, make a cardboard box the size of the inside of your mold and cover that with freezer paper. Voila, practically perfect mold liner.

 This is also where I got the plan for the wooden log soap mold seen here. I like it a lot. It is the easiest thing in the world to unmold. Just take off the removable ends and lower the hinged sides.

Here are a couple of cant miss hot process tutorials: Hot Process Soap Making by Gracefruit & Zensoaps Hot Process DoubleBoiler method. And of course, my favorite spot for soapmaking in general is always Kathy Millers site.

Pumpkin Soap Recipe September 23, 2013 10:11 am | Soap Making

 This week, Ill be adding several more soap recipes to the blog. I also want to start tackling some of the most common questions I get from readers.

Today, the focus is Pumpkin Soap! For this batch, I experimented with adding a vanilla spice swirl to give the bar just a hint of warm, freshbaked scent.

Because I have several sensitive family members, I usually leave bars unscented or very lightly scented with natural ingredients only. If you want your soap to have a more detectable smell, youll need to greatly increase the amount of essential oils I list, keeping in mind that vanilla absolute will color your soap brown.

This is a Cold Process Soap recipe. An overview of directions can be found in my Soapmaking 101 post. I also recommend The Natural Soap Book by Susan Miller Cavitch, which is the book I used to learn soap making.

Its sized to fit a homemade 5 lb wooden loaf mold, with extra tall sides, that my husband made for me. The inner dimensions are roughly: 16 long x 3 3/4 wide x 4 3/4 tall if youd like to make your own.

 Pumpkin Soap Recipe 32 ounces olive oil 16 ounces coconut oil 8 ounces sunflower oil 6 ounces cocoa butter 18 ounces water 8.64 ounces lye (sodium hydroxide)

Make according to general cold process soap making directions. (See Soap Making 101 for an overview.) I buy my lye (100% sodium hydroxide) from my local Tractor Supply Store. You can also order from Brambleberry.com.

At trace add:

4 ounces pumpkin puree (canned or homemade) optional: annatto seed powder (if youd like a more orange color than shown here)

To add the swirl, I poured about onefourth of the batch into a large, empty yogurt container then stirred in:

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of vanilla absolute (adjust depending on your brand and scent preference) around 50 drops of clove essential oil (You can also try adding a bit of ginger or cinnamon essential oils, if youd like.)

(You can buy both of these at Mountain Rose Herbs.)

Pour half of the pumpkin soap in the parchment paper lined mold, add the vanilla swirl portion next, then top with the rest of the pumpkin soap. Cover and let sit undisturbed for about two to three days.

I found this soap needed a longer dry time than most, so dont worry if it seems too soft at first. Once unmolded, let the soap log sit out in the air for an additional few days before slicing into bars and allow for plenty of cure time. DIY Gift Handmade Honey Soap Tutorial Handmade gifts are always a favorite and theyre so much fun to make! Handmade Honey Soap is simply perfect for hostess gifts, teachers, neighbors and anyone else that could use a little pampering. Um, I think thats about 99% of the women I know. Whenever I make a batch of soap I make few extra for myself, of course. Making your own soap is a great way to create the perfect soap full of ingredients you can read. Anyone with sensitive skin or allergies should definitely consider making your own mild soap without irritants. Ive made many different varieties over the years and its one of my favorite gifts to give during the holidays.

http://www.everythingetsy.com/wpcontent/uploads/2012/12/soapmakingsupplies.jpgI started off with this

amazing Honey Bee Soap Making Kit from Lather and Lotions and Soap Mold Works. They have everything you ever need to make fabulous soap and it ships right to your doorya gotta love that. If you already have some soap making supplies and are looking for cool and unique molds that you cant find in the storetake a look at Soap Mold Works! Heres what I used for this lovely soap 1 pound block of Honey Melt Base 56 drops of Baby Bee Buttermilk Fragrance Oil 23 drops of Vanilla White Color Stabilizer 23 drops of Stained Glass Citrus Orange Colorant Droppersif you have them Honey Comb Bee Soap Molds Each pound of soap base and the above ingredients will give you 4 large honey comb bars of soap. All the steps below can be used with making any kind of soap. This is the way Ive been making it for years. You can easily use a Goat Milk Base or Olive Oil Base with your favorite fragrance.

 Pin It Cut up the block of soap into small cubes and add them to a microwave safe bowl or measuring cup. I like to use an extra large measuring cup.

Start by microwaving the soap for 30 seconds. Stir it up and microwave for 20 seconds at a time until it is completely melted. You DO NOT want to heat it longer than it needs to melt. Just make sure you no longer have any lumps of soap before moving onto the next step.

Add your fragrance, color, and stabilizer and gently stir.

 I love the color of this soap and it made my house smell sweet and inviting.

Let them set overnight and you are finished!

http://www.everythingetsy.com/wpcontent/uploads/2012/12/HandmadeHoneySoaponEverythingEtsy.jpg
The soap easily pops out of the mold and you can wrap them up however you want. I plan to use clear shrink wrap and a bit of twine. I want to still be able to see the beautiful details and color of this Honey Bee Soap. Homemade Lavender Soap February 22, 2013 36 Comments Last week I shared how to make honey brown sugar scrub and today Im back with a soap tutorial. This lavender soap tutorial is so easy to make and only requires a few ingredients. Once you try soap making youll love making soap to give to friends and family. Supplies: Goats milk soap base Lavender essential oil dry lavender

soap colorant (optional) ***update: I recommend adding a preservative or omitting the lavender if the soap will not be used immediately. Ive read vitamin e oil can help preserve natural items like lavender but have yet to try it. Ill keep you updated when I do. :)

To make three lavender soap bars you will need about 13 goats milk soap cubes. 1. Cut soap into cubes and place in a double boiler or microwave in 30 second intervals (I used a large pyrex measuring cup over a double boiler). 2. Melt soap over lowmedium heat. 3. Once soap cubes turn liquid add a few drops of lavender extract, colorant, and lavender; stir well. The lavender will naturally float to the top as you can see in the picture above. 4. Pour into soap molds and allow to harden for at least one hour. Press mold to release soap. And there you have it..your own lavender soap bars! I made one without purple colorant and two with the colorant. There are also plenty of ways to naturally color your soap if you prefer to not use dyes. I do suggest using essential oils over fragrance oils though, both can be found at your local craft store. Supplies used: Goats soap base Lavender essential oil & soap colorant from Michaels Soap molds from Hobby Lobby

How To Make Pure Coconut Oil Soap (For Cleansing And Laundry)

Ingredients All amounts are per weight. You will need to use a scale for these measurements. Lathering Skin Bar (20% superfat) Note: Because this soap is highly superfatted it can create a very dense lather when rubbed directly on skin. For a light, bubbly effect I recommend lathering with a natural sponge. o o o o 33 oz coconut oil, 76 degree* (where to buy coconut oil) 4.83 ounces lye (NaOH)** (where to buy lye) 12.54 oz water .5 1 ounce essential oils (optional)

Laundry Soap (1% superfat) All amounts are by weight o o o o 33 oz coconut oil, 76 degree* (where to buy coconut oil) 5.9 ounces lye (NaOH)** (where to buy lye) 12 oz water .5 1 ounce essential oils (optional) (where to buy essential oils)

* For soap making purposes there are several types of coconut oil. The stuff I buy has a melting point of 76 degrees. This is the most commonly available kind and the preferred type for soap making. There is also a coconut oil that has a melting point of 92 degrees and another that is fractionated, meaning that the long chain triglycerides have been removed, leaving only saturated fats. I have not tested this recipe with either the 92 degree or fractionated oils, but it works well with the 76 degree type. ** You can often find 100% lye in the drain cleaner section of a mom n pop hardware store. Lye is a naturally occurring substance that can be made by burning hardwoods and boiling the ashes, but its much easier to just buy. If you dont see it, ask a sales clerk for help. They may be keeping it behind the counter because it has multiple uses. Be prepared to explain that you want to make soap, not meth. Equipment: Note: All equipment should be reserved for soap making only. o o o o o o o o o crock pot 8 quart stick blender digital scale thermometer glass measuring cups small glass bowls plastic spoon with long handle rubber spatula sink or bowl filled with vinegar and water for cleaning anything that comes in contact with lye. Follow by cleaning with soap.

o o o

protective equipment: longsleeved shirt, plastic/rubber gloves, safety glasses or protective eye gear soap mold (where to buy oval soap mold or square soap mold) A standard sized bread pan is perfect for this batch, cardboard boxes will also work parchment paper for lining the soap mold (where to buy parchment paper online)

Photo Tutorial: Step 1: Weigh your ingredients and set your crockpot to low

Step 2: Add water to a mediumsized glass or ceramic bowl and take it outside along with the lye and longhandled spoon. While wearing your protective gear and taking care not to breathe the vapors, slowly add the lye to the water while mixing gently. Order is important here, so make sure it is the lye youre pouring into the water.

The mixture will get very hot so be careful! Let it transition from cloudy to clear, then bring it inside. Let cool for 510 minutes while you work on step 3. Step 3: Place coconut oil in a saucepan and heat to 120130F. Make sure that your thermometer is not touching the bottom of the pot when taking your reading.

 Step 4: Place coconut oil in your crockpot

Step 5: Add lye to crockpot (being careful not to splash) and stir a few times.

Step 6: Using the stick blender begin mixing toward trace. Youll know trace is achieved when the mixture has the texture and thickness of a light pudding.

 Step 7: Cover and let cook on low. During this process the oils should rise up the sides like a wave and then fold back into the mixture. Mine usually takes 45 minutes 1 hour but the cooking time will vary depending on how hot your crock pot is. Check on it often.

Step 8: When the soap is ready it should look a little like semitranslucent vaseline with no oil puddles in the middle. There are two ways to test and see if its done. First, dip a PH test strip and wait several minutes for it to fully change color. It should be between 710. If it is higher than 10 its not done. For a slightly less scientific approach, take a little of the soap and rub it between your fingers. It should feel a bit waxy. Now touch it to your tongue. If it zaps you, its not done. Note: It is really important to make sure all the lye is converted otherwise the finished soap can burn!

Step 9: If youre adding essential oils, wait until the mixture cools a little and then add them, otherwise they will lose their fragrance. (I skipped this, so no photo!) Step 10: Spoon mixture into your mold and let cool. If you want to speed up this process put it in the fridge

 Step 11: Unlike other bars which need to harden for 24 hours before being cut, coconut oil makes a very hard bar that will be difficult to cut if you let it dry too long. Cut as soon as its cool and firm. Step 12: In an area with good air flow, place bars on a rack/tray with about an inch of space between them. Allow them to dry out and harden for another few days. Though you can try your first bar right away, its best to let them sit for 23 weeks to let the conditioning properties fully develop.

Shelf Life About 1 year when stored in a cool, dry place. Chai Latte Love (CP Soap Tutorial) The recipe: Palm oil 90 g Coconut oil 90 g Olive oil 90 g Cocoa butter 30 g Castor oil 30 g Lye 46 g Water 100 g *A note on this recipe + BBs Chai Tea. I knew the fragrance oil would probably accelerate a bit because it does contain spice. I didnt even use a stick blender; I just mixed with a spoon and it thickened quickly and also got very hot. Also note that my recipe is a pretty quick tracing recipe because of the palm and the cocoa butter. So if you want to slow things down when using fragrance oils like thisuse a recipe that contains higher amounts of olive. If youre

okay with lard, lard is slower to trace than palm so works great also. Keep your temps down as soaping cooler tends to slow trace. Adding the fragrance oil to your melted oils helps also if you have a fast moving FO.* For this soap, Im going to make this recipe twice. Once for the bottoms and again for the tops. So make your soap as usual and bring to trace. Pour it into the individual cups.

That was easy enough! Now were going to make the tops. Since these are hot drinks I wanted a layer of cream on top that molded to the top instead of a whipped top like they put on the cold drinks. Im going to make our same recipe and do sort of a partial whipped. I used a cold lye solution but melted the oils like I usually do and let them cool a bit. Since I used cocoa butter I couldnt let them cool too much or it would start to resolidify. I wanted the topping to be more white so I added some Titanium Dioxide dissolved in water.

Once you have your lye solution cold (put it covered and labeled in the fridge) pour your lye into the melted oils. I wanted to whip some air into this mixture so I used a beater instead of my stick blender. I didnt add any fragrance oil because I wanted it to stay nice and white.

You can see after Ive whipped it for a bit it gets more white in color. I beat it for about 10 minutes. Longer than I thought it would take! You want to look for it to become whiter and a bit frothy/slightly whipped. My goal is to pour it over the tops of the drink bottoms and have it spread on its own. So you dont want something that you have to spread with a knife. Were ready to pour the tops on. I scraped off the tops of the cups to make them more even. I would actually recommend leaving a bit more head room in your drinks than I did so you have room for the cream topping (so spoon out a bit). Ill add more cream topping for the next batch lesson learned.

Gently spoon the topping on. If you do it slow enough and a bit at a time it will form a nice dome without running over the sides.

Depending on what drink youre making, you can sprinkle of some topping. I added a bit of cinnamon to these. If I were doing a peppermint mocha I would shave a bit of brown soap to look like chocolate shavings on top.

These cups are super easy to unmold. Let them sit like this for about 24 hours, pop in the freezer for 10 minutes or so and gently push from the bottom while squeezing the sides gently. They pop right out. On Bramble Berrys website they do state that this fragrance oil discolors to brown. This is exactly what I want so I didnt add any colorant. If I wanted a darker brown I could have added some brown mica or even some cocoa powder. Here are the chai soaps labeled. You could leave them naked, put a label around the naked soap or my favorite (see below)put them back in cups and put the label on the cups. They ended up being about 3.5 ounces (so if you download my label template, make sure to check the size of your batch).

How to Make Homemade Soap with Herbs and Citrus

I diced up some rosemary to add with lemon zest.

 I found some great napkins at Goodwill (where else) for 25 cents and some 50% off ribbon at Hobby Lobby for some easy gift wrapping. I also thought about putting them on pretty antique plates found at Goodwill for $2. But does it look like Im giving someone a slice of lemon cake? LOL

Herb and Citrus Soap Recipe adapted from Martha

Youll need: Glycerin soap (sold at craft stores) Assorted herbs & citrus I used basil, mint, rosemary, orange and lemon Food processor Glass bowl or measuring cup Plastic spoon or scraper Soaps molds any plastic or cardboard container will do Cooking spray 1. Melt soap Put the soap blocks in glass bowl & melt in the microwave for 30 second intervals until melted. Stir every so often to break up big chunks. 2. Prepare additives While melting, puree the herbs and squeeze out excess water in a paper towel. For citrus, zest the peel. Youll need about 1 tablespoon of additives for each cup. FYI Orange + basil = an unattractive muddy green brown color.

 3. Get mould containers ready You can buy cute moulds at the craft store, but any plastic container will work, even your Ziploc containers. Though you might want to use something you can just pitch in the recycle bin when finished rather than trying to clean. Use old milk cartons or even yogurt cups. Spray with cooking spray and wipe out excess. 4. Add purees Once glycerin is melted, let it stand & cool for a few minutes. Before it sets too much, add the additives. Keep stirring to ensure they dont all float to the bottom. When you have the color you want (more time stirring = darker color) pour into container.

5. Setting the mould Let the soap sit on the counter for about an hour to completely set. Then put in the freezer for another hour or so. Then it should pop right out. Slice with knife, give to someone you love and use within 3 months.

Mocha Soap Recipe 25% coconut oil 25% palm oil 25% palm kernel oil 12.5% cocoa butter