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chapter

28

Knit Top Foundations
TYPES OF KNIT FOUNDATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .633 DARTLESS STRETCHY KNIT—DRAFT 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . .633 DARTLESS FIRM KNIT—DRAFT 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .635 OVERSIZED KNIT TOP—DRAFT 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .636 Cotton Knit Top Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .636 Ribbing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .637 CROP TOP WITH A MUSCLE SLEEVE . . . . . . . . . . . . . .638 KNIT TOP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .639

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) • Draw the adjusted armhole using a French curve from Y. (Follow the angle of the shoulderline and mark. Add 3/8-inch seams when stitching on the overlock/serge machines and 1/2-inch seams for single-stitch machines. Refer to page 385 for the draft. The dart is eliminated. Refer to Chapter 27 for information about knits. Figure 2 X–Y ϭ Front shoulder measurement.KNIT TOP FOUNDATIONS Knit tops are based on the seamless torso foundation. Figure 1 X Starting point 1/2 " Figure 2 X Equals front shoulder length Y 1" . Label X at neck. DARTLESS STRETCHY KNIT—DRAFT 1 Pattern Development Figure 1 Back • Trace the back pattern. blending with the original armhole. The basic knit foundations are seamless. The patterns are drafted together and separated at the completion of the draft. 633 TYPES OF KNIT FOUNDATIONS Draft 1—for two-way stretch and tubular knit Draft 2—for firm knits (double knit) Draft 3—for cotton knit oversized T-shirt Ribbing: refer to page 637 There are a number of books that will help with sewing instructions on knits. • Shift the pattern upward 1/2 inch and trace 4 to 5 inches of the armhole. starting at shoulder tip and ending at the armhole. • Draw the side seam indenting 1" as shown.

• Measure the armhole and record. Figure 5 • Trim front neck from original pattern.) • Measure in 1/2 inch on biceps line. Label Knit back. Label the grainline A–B. D B Figure 6 Knit Sleeve • Fold paper. aligning hip and center lines. Draw line from the mark to the shoulder tip (broken lines ϭ original pattern) (Figure 3b). Remove. • Blend a new armhole curve to the sleeve cap. Label Knit front. draw a line through X and Z. Square up 1/2 inch from mark and label C. Place the basic sleeve front on the paper with center grain on foldline and trace. Mark. • If X and Z do not align. • Trim 1/8 inch from curve of the armhole and blend. (Broken line indicates original sleeve. • Using one-fourth of the waist and hip measurements. draw a reference side seam. Figure 3a X Z Figure 3b Find center and blend Figure 4 Figure 5 Discard X Z Mea s u r e KNIT BACK KNIT FRONT Trim 1/8 " Center back Figure 6 Paper A C 1/2 " 1/2 " Grainline Line for fitted garment Line for fitted garment Note: When using rib knit. Use the line for fitted garments cut in Lycra-blended fabrics. draw straight side seams of front and back patterns to avoid runs in the knit.634 Chapter 28 Figures 3a. secure and cut the back pattern. Separating the Front and Back Patterns Figure 4 • Place paper under the draft. b Front Neck • Place front pattern on top of the back copy. • Mark biceps and elbow. • Draw the front neckline only. Label Z (Figure 3a). Square a new biceps line from the fold to point C. • Draw a slightly inward curved line from D to C. label D. • Square a line from B equal to one-half of the wrist (plus 1/4 inch) measurement. Mark the center and blend with the back neck and front neck. Center front .

• Add 1/4 inch to the back shoulder. Notch at center cap. Record. • If cap measurement is more than needed. • Add seams to all patterns (1/2 inch. The sleeve is shaped equally on both sides. 1/4 " BACK FRONT 1/2 " Firm knit foundation 1/2 " Firm knit foundation Sleeve The sleeve cap of the basic sleeve should measure 1/2 inch more than front and back armholes. Figure 7. • Add 1/2 inch to the back side seam and subtract 1/2 inch from the front seam. Measure to find the difference. or 3/8 inch for overlock stitch). 8 Sleeve Adjustment • Sleeve cap should measure 1/4 inch more than armhole (1/2 inch total). • If cap measurement is less than the armhole.KNIT TOP FOUNDATIONS Figures 7. The armholes have been enlarged. as illustrated. measure in from the biceps and blend the new cap. • Mark the center cap notch. 2 • Trace torso foundation pattern. transferring shoulder and side dart to the armhole. Draw lines to waist. Example: The front armhole is 3/4 inch greater. Figure 9 KNIT SLEEVE asu re Me Biceps Add Reduce Me Biceps Blend Elbow Blend Elbow asu re Figure 1 Figure 2 Trim 1/4 " DARTLESS FIRM KNIT—DRAFT 2 Figures 1. Unfold. Figure 7 Figure 8 635 Figure 9 • Cut the sleeve from paper. • Draw a line to the elbow or wrist level. extend biceps and blend with cap. Figure 8. follow the instruction given in Figures 7 and 8. . • Subtract 1/4 inch from the front shoulder. Measure the sleeve cap and compare with armhole measurement. If it does not. The front is greater than the back. Label Knit sleeve. • Complete the sleeve.

Figure 2 Paper E A 1/8 " 3/16 " C Sleeve Draft Measurements Needed • Sleeve length _____________. see pages 633 to 635. and stitch to the knit top. Divide into fourths and follow the illustration. • Place the back dartless pattern on the square and trace the back neckline for the back knit pattern. A–E ϭ armhole measurement. Square out from D. Draw a curved line from E. Figure 1 • Square a line on paper. Record in the space provided in the right column. • Shift the pattern 1" (more or less) • Trace the remaining pattern and remove. • Lower armhole 1 1/2". • Measure the armhole. • Draw the armhole using the Vary curve. Draw the line from A touching on the biceps line. cut.636 Chapter 28 Figure 1 1" Back OVERSIZED KNIT TOP—DRAFT 3 The front and back knit patterns are drafted together and separated when the draft has been completed. Fold on the A–B line. A–C ϭ 3". • Half of armhole measurement _____________. • Trace the neckline and end at mid-shoulder. Measure Shift Front 1-1/2 " Cotton Knit Top Draft Fold Extend to preferred length The cotton knit top is based on the stretchy dartless knit top. Square out from A and B. Square out from C. Figure 2 A–B ϭ draw a line in middle of the paper equal to the knit sleeve length. blending to elbow. Create design variations from this foundation. Sleeve for knit foundation Elbow D F B Entry measurement . less 1". • Around hand measurement plus 1" ____________. The sleeve can be modified for other designs. • Place the front dartless pattern on the square. B–F ϭ one-half of around hand measurement. • Draw a line from the shoulder tip to neck. Label E. • Draw a line from F ending 1/2 inch in from E. If not available. • Complete the pattern. or as preferred. A–D ϭ one-half of A–B.

If too loose. Ribbings can be purchased to the length and width or made from the self-fabric of the knit. Figure 2b Insufficient stretching Overly stretched . and banding at hemlines). • Trim the back neck from the front pattern. If too tight. Fold ribbing length in half and mark. cuffs.KNIT TOP FOUNDATIONS 637 Completing the Patterns Figure 3 • Place paper underneath the pattern and trace the back copy. b. c The joining seam of the ribbing can be at the shoulder line (Figure 1a) or center back (Figure 1c).B. Release and stretch more. plus 3/4 inch for 3/8-inch seam. b Do not trim the ribbing excess until the perfect fit is determined. Excess after stretching Figure 1b Figure 1c Starting point Trim excess at C. Length—equals the adjusted neckline. puckers will appear on the garment (Figure 2b). the ribbing will not hug the neck (Figure 2a). Figure 2a Fit problems Test Fit—Problems and Solutions Figures 2a. Overlock/ serge the seams when sewing knits. Pin ribbing to the fabric lying flat (Figure 1a) or to the garment on the form (Figures 1b and 1c). Figure 3 Ribbing Ribbing is a perfect cover for the raw edges of stretch fabrics (neckline. BACK knit (oversize) FRONT knit (oversize) Figure 1a Shoulder starting point Center front Center back Self-Made Ribbing The width of the knit determines the amount to be cut from around the neckline: Width—double the measurement. The garment must be able to slide over the head easily. Joining the Ribbing Seams Figures 1a. Release and relax the stretch.

following the illustration. The cap should measure 1/2 inch greater than the armhole.638 Chapter 28 CROP TOP WITH A MUSCLE SLEEVE Design Analysis The knit top fits close to the figure. • Repeat for the other side of the sleeve. indicating that a ribbed knit or Lycra should be the fabric of choice. Trace and indent 1/2 inch. • Blend the capline and curved hemline. Fold . Figure 1 Trace the dartless foundation and draw the top front and back neckline. The sleeve fits to the muscular arm. The top fits under the bust and has a scooped neckline. making this an ideal garment for exercising. Add to or subtract from the underarm equally. The top can be based on the stretchy knit foundation. • Place the sleeve on the traced copy and pivot 3 inches down from cap to the new biceps line. Figure 1 Fold Figure 2 Blend Pivot Blend Pivot New bicep 1/2 " 1/2 " 2" Figure 2 Sleeve • Trace the knit sleeve to bicep (broken lines) and remove. • Draw a parallel line 2 inches up from the biceps. as illustrated.

Figure 1 A BACK SLEEVE 6" FRONT Fold PLACKET Guideline Fold B Fold line of paper Cut two Collar edge (fold line) C. The collar can be cut from knit yardage. Sleeve • Trace the sleeve and shorten to desired length and add 1 inch for hemline. see page 183 for a guide. The top has a placket (see pages 370–374 for a guide). Placket Inset • Draw a line 3/4" in from fold to the desired length of the placket.KNIT TOP FOUNDATIONS 639 KNIT TOP Design Analysis A popular shirt design is based on the oversized cotton knit foundation. To complete a onepiece collar draft. Figure 1 • Trace the oversized dartless foundation on the fold.B. • Draw the placket on fold 1 1/2" wide and equal to the length of the opening. Add 1/4" seams and notch 3/4" in from the fold to indicate where the collar starts. . • Add a 1/4" seam allowance and cut out this section. The placket is stitched from fold to notch and turned to the right side before stitching placket to garment. Ribbed collars may be ordered to the size needed from novelty sewing supplies or from trim resources.