from Textile Artists' Newsletter [TAN] Vol. III, No.

3 from 1982

Textile Artists' Newsletter, TAN, was publis e! from "traw I#to $ol! i# %a&la#! a#! later 'er&ele(, )alifor#ia i# t e earl( 198*s. "usa# ). +ru!i#, was t e -ublis er./!itor a#! arti0les were writte# b( er a#! ma#( ot er textile artists. 1e are s0a##i#, ol! issues a#! putti#, t e i#formatio# o# t e "traw.0om web site. 2u0 of it is still 3er( useful still.

All TAN arti0les repro!u0e! o# t is site are 0op(ri, t 2*** b( "usa# ). +ru!i#, 4 #ot to be repro!u0e! or 0opie! i# pri#t or ele0tro#i0 me!ia wit out permissio#. 5ou ma(, of 0ourse, pri#t out a 0op( for (our ow# use. T a#& (ou.

6iber 7ea0ti3e +(e re0ipes 0a# be fou#! o# t is site as well.

6iber 7ea0ti3e +(es a#! )iba0ro# 6 i# parti0ular

T is issue of TAN, Vol III, #o. 3 was espe0iall( !e3ote! to explai#i#, fiber rea0ti3e !(es a#! )iba0ro# 6 !(e. T ere were se3eral arti0les i# t is issue, all writte# b( "usa# +ru!i#,. T e( are all ere o# t is si#,le pa,e s owi#, ea0 arti0le ea!li#e.

7emember, as (ou rea!, t at t ese arti0les were writte# i# 1982 a#! t ere a3e bee# 0 a#,es a#! #ew !(es i#tro!u0e! si#0e t e#.

A +efi#itio#

T e offi0ial !efi#itio# of a 8fiber rea0ti3e !(e8 is pro3i!e! b( 7(s a#! 9olli#,er i# 0 apter VII of t eir boo&, T e T eor( of )oloratio# of Textiles :19;<= from t e +(ers )ompa#( -ubli0atio#s Trust, /#,la#!. A fiber rea0ti3e !(e 8is a 0oloure! 0ompou#! w i0 as a suitable ,roup 0apable of formi#, a 0o3ale#t bo#! betwee# a 0arbo# atom of t e !(e io# or mole0ule a#! a# ox(,e#, #itro,e#, or sulp ur atom of a (!rox(, a# ami#o or a mer0apto ,roup

respe0ti3el( of t e substrate.8 T e( poi#t out t at t e !efi#itio# ex0lu!es mor!a#t !(es a#! 1> 1 0 romium a?o !(e 0omplexes w i0 , i# !(ei#, protei# fibers ma( form 0o3ale#t bo#!s betwee# metal io# a#! #u0leop ili0 ,roups of t e fiber.

1 at all t is mea#s is t at a fiber rea0ti3e !(e rea0ts to form a true bo#! :#ot @ust a plus or mi#us 0 ar,e attra0tio# or a# e#trapme#t i# t e fiber= wit t e fiber i#3ol3e!. I# t e 0ase of 0ellulose t e bo#! is wit t e (!rox(l :4%A= ,roups prese#t i# 3ast #umbers o# t e 0ellulose mole0ule a#! i# t e 0ase of protei# fibers wit t e ami#o :4NA3 = ,roup prese#t o# t e protei# mole0ule.

New +is0o3eries

6iber 7ea0ti3e A!!itio#s /#ri0 Artists' -alette

T is arti0le be,a# as a# expla#atio# of )I'A4 $ei,('s 0ol! water fiber rea0ti3e !(e, )iba0ro# 6. 'ut it ,rew i#to a 0luster of arti0les a#! i#formatio# o# fiber rea0ti3e !(es. T ere is still so mu0 0o#fusio# amo#, ome a#! stu!io !(ers about t e 3arious t(pes of fiber rea0ti3e !(es, t at it seeme! appropriate to tr( to 0lear up some of t ose misu#!ersta#!i#,s.

-ro0io# 2B

-ro0io# 2B !(es are t e fiber rea0ti3e !(es most use! b( !(ers, bati&ers, pri#ters of 0otto# a#! ra(o# fabri0s, a#! for 0raft a#! s0 ool use. T eir ease of use 0omes from t e fa0t t at t e( a3e a 3er( i, rea0ti3it( !ue to t eir 0 emi0al stru0ture.

T is rea0ti3it( allows t em to be set or fixe! o# t e fiber wit out t e #ee! for simmeri#, or 0ompli0ate! steami#, pro0e!ures. T e water temperatures reCuire! for t eir use are i# t e 1*< to 1D* !e,ree 6 ra#,e :t at is, ot tap water=.

)o#fusio# I# Names

)o#fusio# 0omes from t e fa0t t at ma#( users of -ro0io# 2B !o #ot &#ow t at t e( are usi#, it. T is is be0ause t ere a3e bee#, a#! still are, a wi!e 3ariet( of pa0&a,e! !(es sol! u#!er 3arious tra!e #ames, w i0 are, i# fa0t, -ro0io# 2B. "ome of t ese i#0lu!e> +(lo#, 6ibre0, Ei#!a's +(e, Ai4+(e, -ut#am's 6iber 7ea0ti3e :some of t ese are #o lo#,er bei#, pa0&a,e!=, a#! ot ers. A w ite fixati3e pow!er :was i#, so!a or sal so!a= Is sometimes i#0lu!e! a#! 0ommo# salt :so!ium 0 lori!e= is reCuire!. 'e0ause of t is proliferatio# of #ames, w i0 were all reall( -ro0io# 2B, some textboo&s o# bati& or 0raft !(ei#, ,o so far as to state t at 8e3er( fiber rea0ti3e !(e i# t e worl! is -ro0io#.8

)iba0ro# 6 I#tro!u0e!

'ei#, 8t e o#l( fiber rea0ti3e !(e i# t e worl!8 woul! 0ertai#l( please t e sales for0e of -ro0io#'s ma#ufa0turer, I)I, if it were true. 'ut su0 is #ot t e 0ase. Alt ou, it was true a few (ears a,o t at o#l( t e -ro0io# 2B series was easil( a3ailable for ome or stu!io use, at least 2* ma#ufa0turers ma&e some form of fiber rea0ti3e !(e.

I# 19;9, t ere fi#all( 0ame a #ew, 80ol! water8 fiber rea0ti3e to 0ompete I# t e i#!ustrial mar&et wit -ro0io# 2B, w i0 u#til t e# a! bee# t e o#l( i, l( rea0ti3e !(e a3ailable. T e #ew !(e Is 0alle! )iba0ro# 6 a#! is a pro!u0t of )I'A4$ei,( )orp. of 'asle, "wit?erla#!. )iba0ro# 6 !(es are mar&ete! for 0raftspeople a#! artists u#!er t e #ame 87ea0ti3e +(e8 b( "pe0trum +(estuffs of 'er&ele(, )A. [#ote> #ow i# (ear 2*** "pe0trum +(es is #o lo#,er i# busi#ess.]

)iba0ro# 6 !(es 0a# be mixe! wit -ro0io# 2B series e3e# t ou, ta&e up rates will 3ar(. "i#0e t e )iba0ro# 6 0olor series !oes #ot i#0lu!e a turCuoise, ma#( !(ers use t e turCuoise from t e -ro0io# 2B series.

Its abilit( to 80ol! bat0 ,8 effi0ie#tl(, t at is to be set wit out eat or steam, mea#s t at it is a wel0ome a!!itio# to t e palettes of wea3ers w o warp pai#t, a#! pri#ters a#! fabri0 pai#ters w o wor& wit limite! eCuipme#t. "il& surfa0e !esi,#ers appre0iate t e ease of

appli0atio# a#! ri0 0olors o# sil& wit out steami#,.

Now t at bot -ro0io# 2B a#! )iba0ro# 6 !(es are a3ailable, artists a3e a 0 oi0e i# 0ol! water !(es a#! ma#( a3e fou#! t at t e i#0rease i# t e palette of 0olors from w i0 t e( 0a# 0 oose to wor& as ,i3e# t em a!!e! possibilities.

'( "usa# ). +ru!i#,

6iber 7ea0ti3e +(es> T e Aistor(

1i!e 7a#,e of +(es 6ollows 1st "u00ess

%#l( o#e t(pe of fiber rea0ti3e !(e, -ro0io#, is familiar to most art a#! 0raft !(ers. A0tuall(, t ere are more t a# 2* ma#ufa0turers of 3arious t(pes of rea0ti3e !(es i# at least 12 !iffere#t 0 emi0al s(stems.

As e3er(o#e &#ows w o as rea! t e #umerous arti0les or ear! le0tures about t e re0e#t istor( of !(estuffs, I)I :Imperial ) emi0als I#!ustries= i#tro!u0e! -ro0io# to t e worl! i# 19<F.

T is was, i#!ee!, a 3er( si,#ifi0a#t brea&t rou, . 1 at #o o#e e3er ears about, of 0ourse, is t at t ere was a 8ru##er up8 i# t e ra0e to be first. T at was )I'A Et!. of 'asle, "wit?erla#!. 6rom a3ailable i#formatio# it seems t at #eit er of t em was aware t at a trul( mar&etable !(e was so 0lose.

It must a3e bee# Cuite a s o0& i# "wit?erla#! t e !a( I)I ma!e its a##ou#0eme#t. )I'A a! bee# !oi#, resear0 si#0e t e 193*s o# t e 0lass of 0 emi0al !(e 0ompou#!s w i0 resulte! i# t e fiber rea0ti3e !(es, but I)I was t e first to ma&e t e offi0ial pro!u0t a##ou#0eme#t a#! to file pate#ts.

All was #ot lost for )I'A4$ei,(, owe3er, for it a! a stro#, pate#t positio# i# resear0

wit t e same 0 emi0al 0ompou#!s for its ) lora#ti#e +ire0t +(es. "o w ile #eit er )I'A4$ei,( :#or a#( ot er ma#ufa0turer= 0oul! !upli0ate -ro0io# 2B !(es )I'A4$ei,( !i! 0ome out wit a series of fiber rea0ti3e !(es 0alle! )iba0ro# A t at 0ompete! wit I)I's -ro0io# A series. 'ot t ese s(stems 0ame out i# 19<;, t e (ear after I)I i#tro!u0e! -ro0io# 2B !(es. : )I'A 7e3iew, No. 12* for Gu#e, 19<; !e3otes t e e#tire issue to t ose #ew )iba0ro#s 2a#( libraries a3e t ese 7e3iews.=

T e u,e su00ess of I)l's first -ro0io# !(e brou, t about a real re3olutio# i# t e !(e i#!ustr(. All t e ma@or !(e ma#ufa0turers be,a# resear0 pro,rams to !e3elop ot er t(pes of rea0ti3e !(es.

'efore 19<F few 0 emists belie3e! t at a true fiber rea0ti3e !(e t at 0oul! be use! 0ommer0iall( woul! e3er be !e3elope!. T is !isbelief Cui0&l( 0 a#,e! to furious resear0 a#! a asto#is i#, series of su00esses was a0 ie3e! i# s ort time.

%#0e t e ,e#eral pri#0iples a! bee# establis e! a ,reat amou#t of resear0 wor& Cui0&l( pro!u0e! a 3ariet( of ot er s(stems. "ome of t e ot er rea0ti3e !(es !e3elope! !uri#, t is perio! :alt ou, sel!om use! b( 0rafts people= are> 'a(er's Ee3afix, $ei,('s 7ea0to#e, "a#!o?'s +rimare#e, +u-o#t's )a3alite, 'A"6's -rima?i#, a#! Aoe0 st's 7ema?ol. No#e of t ese owe3er, use! temperatures as low as t ose use! for -ro0io# 2B !(es a#! 0raftspeople sta(e! wit t e 2B series.

5ears passe! a#! resear0 0o#ti#ue!, but most !(ers assume! t at t e 0ellulose fiber rea0ti3e fiel! a! settle! !ow# to a re,ular ,roup of 0o#te#!ers. 1 o 0a# sa( exa0tl( w ( )I'A4$ei,( !e0i!e! to a!! t e first 0ompetitor to t e fiel! of i, l( rea0ti3e, 80ol!8 water !(esH 6or a 0ertai#t( t e e#er,( s orta,es a#! #ee! to 0o#ser3e power :as 0ol! water !(es !o= a! somet i#, to !o wit it. Also, -ro0io# 2B series as t e problem of bei#, too rea0ti3e i# ma#( 0ir0umsta#0es. T e rea0ti3it( is so i, t at solutio#s a#! pri#t pastes a3e 3er( s ort life before (!rol(sis be,i#s to ma&e t e !(e stre#,t !rop.

1it t e a!3a#0es i# !(e 0 emistr( t e 0 emists i# "wit?erla#! were able to !esi,# a #ew 0ol! water !(e t at was able to rea0t more slowl( to 0o#ser3e !(e life, (et still be rea0ti3e e#ou, t at it 0oul! be use! as a 80ol! water8 !(e. -er aps t e 0 alle#,e of ma&i#, a !(e wor& t at a! fluori#e rat er t a# 0 lori#e as its rea0ti3e ,roup was a part of it. As re0e#tl( as 19;1, a !(e 0 emistr( boo& was publis e! w i0 state! t at 8fluori#e as bee# me#tio#e! i# ma#( pate#t examples, but is #ot &#ow# to a3e bee# use! 0ommer0iall(.8

)ertai#l(, ma#( mar&et stu!ies pre0e!e! su0 a ma@or !e0isio# as lau#0 i#, a #ew !(e ,roup. 'ut, o#e 0a##ot elp but t i#& t at after more t a# 2* (ears t ere was#'t still t e feeli#, t at )l'A a! to e3e#tuall(, some!a( 0ome out wit a 0 alle#,e to t at 3er( first I)I fiber rea0ti3e !(e t at 0ause! su0 a stir i# 19<F, @ust sli, tl( more t a# a (ear before t e first )iba0ro#s were i#tro!u0e!. -er aps some!a( a )I'A4$ei,( 0 emist will write is memoirs about t is 3er( i#teresti#, perio! i# t e istor( of !(e 0 emistr(.

I# t e fall of 19;8, u#!er a ,oo! !eal of i#!ustrial se0re0(, )I'A4$ei,( !(e 0 emists were flow# to a spe0ial semi#ar i# 'asle, "wit?erla#!. T e semi#ars, 0o#!u0te! i# se3eral la#,ua,es, explai#e! all about a #ew !(e> )iba0ro# 6. T e a0tual 0 emi0al formulas are still #ot publi0 &#owle!,e, but t e !(e 0 emistr( is base! o# fluori#e. 6luori#e is relate! 0losel( to 0 lori#e, but is more rea0ti3e. Appare#tl(, t e use of fluori#e lea3es more 8spa0e to pla(8 o# t e mole0ule. T is mea#s t at solubilit(, ex aust rates, a#! ma#( ot er !(e properties 0oul! be ma!e more se#siti3e t a# t e( 0oul! i# t e t e# 0urre#t 0 lori#e :0 loro4= base! t(pes of !(es.

A!3ertiseme#ts for t e #ew !(e be,a# to appear i# t e professio#al @our#als, t e lo,o t at of a a#! wit a wat0 to emp asi?e t e spee! of t e rea0tio#.

"i#0e its i#tro!u0tio# to t e art a#! 0raft worl! i# 198* :u#!er t e "pe0trum +(e #ame 87ea0ti3e +(e8,=, )iba0ro# 6 as be0ome 3er( popular. Artists li&e t e ma#( features, espe0iall( its ex0elle#t le3eli#, 0apabilities :#o#4strea&i#ess=, t e mat0 e! 0apabilities of all t e 0olors i# t e ra#,e to ,i3e e3e# 0olor all t rou, !(ei#,, its ex0elle#t pe#etratio# of t e fiber a#! its exte#!e! life !ue to its sli, tl( lower rea0ti3it(.

6iber 7ea0ti3e +(es> T e ) emistr(

2ost 7ea0ti3es 'uilt %# "imilar "tru0ture

Various t(pes of rea0ti3e !(es a3ailable for 0ommer0ial use !iffer wi!el( i# t eir rea0ti3it( for 0ellulose fibers. T e( ra#,e from 3er( low rea0ti3it( to i, l( rea0ti3e :su0 as )iba0ro# 6 a#! -ro0io# 2B=. T e !iffere#0e betwee# t e lowest a#! i, est rea0ti3it( is a fa0tor of 1,*** times.

All but o#e of t e rea0ti3e !(es are built o# a similar stru0ture :7ema?ol +(e from Aoe0 st is t e ex0eptio#=. T is stru0ture 0o#sists of :1= a 0 romop ore :t e 0olor4 beari#, ,roup=, :2= a rea0ti3e ,roup :usuall( a etero0(0li0 0arbo#4#itro,e# ri#, s(stem=, a#! :3= a 8lea3i#, ,roup8 w i0 is part of t e 0arbo#4#itro,e# ,roup w i0 is ,e#erall( a alo,e# 0ompou#! :0 lori#e famil(=.

T is 8lea3i#, ,roup8 splits off !uri#, t e rea0tio# wit t e fiber a#! is t e poi#t at w i0 t e bo#! is forme!. T e le3el of rea0ti3it( of !(estuff is mai#l( !epe#!e#t o# t e rea0ti3e ,roup a#! o# t e 8lea3i#, ,roup8.

I# t e earlier fiber rea0ti3e !(es :su0 as t e -ro0io#s a#! earl( )iba0ro#s= t e 8lea3i#, ,roups8 were alwa(s 0 lori#e, but later it was fou#! t at ot er ,roups 0oul! impart e3e# i, er rea0ti3it(. T ese ,roups 0oul! be atta0 e! to t e !(e mole0ules a#! affe0t su0 t i#,s as fixatio# rates, solubilit(, substa#ti3it( :t e attra0tio# of t e !(e for t e fiber=, a#! buil!4up :t e !ept of 0olor possible=.

T ese earl( fiber rea0ti3e !(es base! o# 0 lori#e 0 emistr( were &#ow# as 0 olortria?i#(l !(es. T e rea0ti3e ,roup was a tria?i#(l ri#, :a six4si!e! ri#, wit t ree #itro,e#s=I if it a! o#e 0 lori#e built i#to it t e !(e was 0alle! a mo#o0 lorotria?i#(l !(e :see 6i, 1=I if it a! two 0 lori#es t e !(e was more rea0ti3e a#! 0alle! a !i0 lorotria?i#(l !(e. :"ee 6i,. 2=

I# 6i,. 1 is a t(pi0al mo#o0 lorotria?i#(l !(e a#! #ote t at t e 0 emi0al stru0ture, a#! t us t e !(e itself, is i!e#ti0al for t is -ro0io# A "0arlet A47 a#! )iba0ro# / !(e "0arlet 7-. Not all t e !(es i# t e two ra#,es are i!e#ti0al, but t ere are se3eral o3erlaps.

fi,. 1 4 a mo#o0 lorotria?i#(l !(e mole0ule

T e -ro0io# A series a#! )ibra0ro# / series, bot i#tro!u0e! i# 19<;, were mo#o0 lorotria?i#(l !(es. T ese are less rea0ti3e t a# t e -ro0io# 2B series a#! reCuire i, er temperatures, more al&ali, a#! lo#,er fixatio# times. T e( a3e a i, er fixatio# le3el so less !(e is lost, but t e( 0a##ot be use! at t e low temperatures w i0

ma&e t e 80ol! water8 t(pes more attra0ti3e to textile a#! fiber artists.

I)I's first -ro0io# 2B !(es were !i0 lorotria?i#(l !(es. T e( are t e most i, l( rea0ti3e be0ause of t eir two 0 lori#e ,roups.

fi, 2 4 t(pi0al mo#o0 lorotria?i#(l !(e fi, 2. 4 a t(pi0al !i0 lorotria?#(l !(e

T e #ew )iba0ro# 6 !(es are a mo#ofluorotria?i#(l !(e. "i#0e fluori#e is more rea0ti3e t a# 0 lori#e, it ma&es t em more rea0ti3e t a# t e mo#o0 loro4 !(es, but sli, tl( less rea0ti3e t a# t e !i0 loro4 !(es. Not o#l( was t e 8lea3i#, ,roup8 0 a#,e! to fluori#e, but importa#t 0 a#,es were ma!e i# t e ot er ,roups w i0 affe0t t e be a3ior of t e !(e i# t e wa( i# w i0 it le3els, t e spee! of ta&e up, a#! ot er features. T e 0 romop ores :0olor 0ompo#e#ts= were 0arefull( 0 ose# for t e best li, t fast#ess a#! i, ti#0torial stre#,t .

)iba0ro# 6

)areful -la##i#, Eea!s to 'etter +(e

'( "usa# ). +ru!i#,

T e "wiss 0 emists at )I'A4$ei,( first 8!esi,#e!8 )iba0ro# 6 fiber rea0ti3e !(e o# paper. T e# t e( spe#t (ears !e3elopi#, a !(estuff t at fit perfe0tl( t e properties t e( wa#te! it to a3e.

1e lear#e! t is bit of ba0&,rou#! I#formatio# !uri#, a p o#e tal& wit a )I'A4$ei,( pro!u0t e#,i#eer. 1e as&e! w at e felt were t e most importa#t features of )iba0ro# 6 t at woul! !isti#,uis it from t e ol!er 0ol! water series, -ro0io# 2B. 6ollowi#, are t e results of t at !is0ussio#.

/ffi0ie#t -e#etratio#

T e 0 emists !esi,#e! t e !(e mole0ule 0 emi0all( to be effi0ie#t at pe#etrati#, fibers prior to fixatio#. T is mea#s t e !(e !iffuses Cui0&l( i#to t e fiber, a#! (ar#s are #ot left wit u#!(e! 0e#ters.

T is is a# importa#t feature i# a 0ol! water !(e si#0e t e lower temperature ma&es t e fibers ar!er to pe#etrate. T e fibers, of 0ourse, must be properl( 0lea#e! a#! wet first.

1as %ff 2u0 /asier

T e 0 emists a!@uste! t e attra0tio# of t e !(e to t e fiber :0alle! substa#ti3it(= to be ,reat e#ou, to be attra0te! to t e fiber, but #ot so ,reat t at t e u#fixe! !(e is ar! to was off after !(ei#, is 0omplete!. 1it proper was off, t is !(e is mu0 easier to use.

Ee3elli#, Impro3e!

)iba0ro# 6 s ows a mar&e! impro3eme#t I# le3elli#, 0 ara0teristi0s :its abilit( to !(e e3e#l(=. +uri#, t e first sta,e of !(ei#,, w e# t e !(e Is #ot atta0 e! to t e fiber. It is mu0 better at sprea!i#, itself e3e#l( t rou, out t e material.

T erefore, w e# so!a is a!!e! later to fix t e !(e, strea&i#, is #ot a problem.

Eess +(e for +eep " a!es

+eep s a!es are possible be0ause of i, ti#0torial stre#,t a#! ,oo! 0olor buil! up. T is mea#s !eeper, more i#te#se s a!es are possible wit less !(e t a# #e0essar( wit -ro0io# 2B, ma&i#, )iba0ro# 6 more effi0ie#t.

True Get 'la0& -ossible

)iba0ro# 6 !(es 0a# be mixe! to (iel! a true @et bla0& o# ra(o# a#! 0otto#. A bla0& as #ot bee# possible wit t e -ro0io# 2B series.

"imilar /x aust 7ates

T e most impressi3e feat of t e "wiss 0 emists is t e mutual 0ompatibilit( of t e )iba0ro# 6 !(es. T e( ex aust at 3er( similar rates. )ur3es plotte! for ea0 !(e 0olor b( temperature a#! time 0a# be lai! o3er o#e a#ot er wit pra0ti0all( #o 3ariatio#. T is is importa#t for se3eral reaso#s>

All )iba0ro# 6 !(es (!rol(?e :rea0t wit water a#! be0ome 8!ea!8= at t e same rate. -ri#ters &#ow t at be0ause 0olors i# -ro0io# 2B mixtures (!rol(?e at !iffere#t rates, t e 0olor of t e pri#t paste will s ift, i# ot er wor!s a0tuall( 0 a#,e, o3er a 1< to F* mi#ute perio!. 1it )iba0ro# 6 mixtures, e3e# if t e !(e paste be,i#s to lose stre#,t after 9* mi#utes, it will lose it e3e#l( i# all 0olors a#! t e s a!e will #ot alter.

+(ers w o li&e to @u!,e 0olor mixes 3isuall( w ile !(ei#, appre0iate &#owi#, t at t e )iba0ro# 6 s a!e see# after 1* mi#utes is t e same, but li, ter 3ersio#, it will be after 2* more mi#utes. 2a#( ot er !(e s(stems ma&e t is 3isual 0 e0& impossible be0ause !iffere#t 0olors 8ta&e8 at !iffere#t rates b( mo3i#, o# to t e fibers earlier or later t a# t e ot ers.

T is feature also ma&es it possible to ,et ,ra!atio#s i# i#te#sit( of 0olor mixes i# t e same !(e bat wit out a 0olor s ift b( a!!i#, fibers to t e pot i# steps. T e e3e# rate of ta&e up mea#s o#e or more 0olors wo#'t be 8missi#,8 w e# #ew fibers are a!!e!.

1i!er Temperature 7a#,e

+ue to its fluori#e 0 emi0al stru0ture, )iba0ro# 6, w ile still i, l( rea0ti3e, is sli, tl( less rea0ti3e t a# t e -ro0io# 2B series. T is as se3eral a!3a#ta,es>

6or (ar# !(ei#, )iba0ro# 6 wor&s u#!er a wi!er temperature ra#,e t a# -ro0io# 2B. It ma( be use! as i, as 1;< !e,rees 6 wit out !ama,e. 7e0omme#!e! temperature ra#,e is 1*< to 12* 6 :D* to <* )=. If use! below 1*< 6, !(ei#, time s oul! be exte#!e! a#! a lower (iel! expe0te!. -ro0io# 2B s oul! #ot be eate! o3er 1D* !e,rees 6.

6or surfa0e appli0atio#, )iba0ro# 6 is more su00essful i# t e 0ol! pa! bat0 te0 #iCue :setti#, t e pri#t wit out eat or steam b( lea3i#, it u#!er a wrapper of plasti0 for 2D to D8 ours= t a# -ro0io# 2B. -ro0io# 2B, be0ause of its 3er( i, rea0ti3it(, be,i#s to (!rol(?e wit i# a few mi#utes after it is i# 0o#ta0t wit so!a t us lea3i#, less !(e i# t e pri#t paste a3ailable for rea0ti#, wit t e fabri0. )iba0ro# 6 !(es remai# stable mu0 lo#,er a#! ,i3e !eeper s a!es wit less !(e i# t e 0ol! bat0 i#,.

)iba0ro# 6 !(es are #ot as se#siti3e to temperature a#! so!a 3ariatio#s. T is mea#s t ere is #o 8bur# out8 problem. 6or t ose w o are somew at less t a# 0areful i# measureme#ts t a# t e( 0oul! be, t ere is alwa(s t e li&eli oo! of o3er!osi#, wit so!a a#! eat. )iba0ro# 6 !(es are more resista#t to t is t a# -ro0io# 2B.

)iba0ro# 6 liCui! sto0& solutio#s :wit out so!a= 0a# be &ept ma#( wee&s i# t e refri,erator wit 3er( little loss of stre#,t !ue to t eir lower rea0ti3it( rate. -ro0io# 2B lasts less t a# alf as lo#,.

7efere#0es>

Abra art, /. N.I +(es a#! T eir I#terme!iates, ) emi0al -ublis i#, )o., N5, 19;;

Alle#, 7. E. 2.I )olour ) emistr(, Appleto#4)e#tur(4)rofts, N5, 19;1

) I 'A 7e3iew No. 12*, "pe0ial Number4)iba0ro# +(es, Gu#e, 19<;, )I'A Et!., 'asle "wit?erla#!

8)iba0ro# 6 +(es8, sales boo&let, )I'A4$ei,()orp., 19;8, "wit?erla#!

8)iba0ro# 6 !(es i# t e ex aust a#! 0ol! pa!4bat0 met o!s o# 0ellulosi0 fibres,8 pro!u0ts bro0 ures, )I'A4$ei,(, 19;8, "wit?erla#!.

"ie,rist, +r. $.I 8%ptimisi#, t e rea0ti3e !(ei#, of 0ellulosi0 fibres,8 I#ter#atio#al +(er, V.1F3 #o. 9, 2a(, 198*, $reat 'ritai#

8-ro0io# +(es for /x aust +(ei#,,8 te0 #i0al bulleti#, I)I Ameri0a I#0., 19;3, 1ilmi#,to#

8)iba0ro# 68 is a re,istere! tra!emar& of )I'A4$ei,( Et!. of 'asle, "wit?erla#!.

8-ro0io# 2B8 a#! 8-ro0io# A8 are re,istere! tra!emar&s of I)I :imperial ) emi0als I#!ustries= of $reat 'ritai#.

All TAN arti0les repro!u0e! o# t is site are 0op(ri, t 2*** b( "usa# ). +ru!i#, 4 #ot to be repro!u0e! or 0opie! i# pri#t or ele0tro#i0 me!ia wit out permissio#. 5ou ma(, of 0ourse, pri#t out a 0op( for (our ow# use. T a#& (ou.

+(e Aistor( from 2F** ') to t e 2*t )e#tur(

b( "usa# ). +ru!i#,

%ri,i#all( writte# for a "emi#ar prese#te! i# "eattle, 1as i#,to# at )o#3er,e#0e 1982, a bi4a##ual ,at eri#, of wea3ers, !(ers a#! spi##ers

2F** ') /arliest writte# re0or! of t e use of !(estuffs i# ) i#a ;1< ') 1ool !(ei#, establis e! as 0raft i# 7ome 331 ') Alexa#!er fi#!s 19* (ear ol! purple robes w e# e 0o#Cuers "usa, t e -ersia# 0apital. T e( were i# t e ro(al treasur( a#! sai! to be wort JF millio# :eCui3ale#t= 32; ') Alexa#!er t e $reat me#tio#s 8beautiful pri#te! 0otto#s8 i# I#!ia 23F ') A# /,(ptia# pap(rus me#tio#s !(ers as 8sti#&i#, of fis , wit tire! e(es a#! a#!s wor&i#, u#0easi#,l( << ') 7oma#s fou#! pai#te! people 8pi0ti8 i# $aul !(ei#, t emsel3es wit 1oa! :same 0 emi0al 0o#te#t of 0olor as i#!i,o= 2N+ a#! 37+ )e#turies A+ 7oma# ,ra3es fou#! wit ma!!er a#! i#!i,o !(e! textiles, repla0i#, t e ol! Imperial -urple :purpura= 3r! )e#tur( pap(rus fou#! i# a ,ra3e 0o#tai#s t e ol!est !(e re0ipe &#ow#, for imitatio# purple 4 0alle! "to0& olm -ap(rus. It is a $ree& wor&. 2;3 A+ /mperor Aurelia# refuse! to let is wife bu( a purpura4!(e! sil& ,arme#t. It 0ost its wei, t i# ,ol!. Eate DTA )e#tur( /mperor T eo!osium of '(?a#tium issue! a !e0ree forbi!!i#, t e use of 0ertai# s a!es of purple ex0ept b( t e Imperial famil( o# pai# of !eat D** A+ 2urex :t e mollus& from w i0 purpura 0omes= be0omi#, s0ar0e !ue to u,e !ema#! a#! o3er ar3esti#, for 7oma#s. %#e pou#! of 0lot !(e! wit 2urex wort J2*,*** i# terms of our mo#e( to!a( :/mperor Au,ustus sour0e= ;**'s a ) i#ese ma#us0ript me#tio#s !(ei#, wit wax resist te0 #iCue :bati&= 92< t e 1ool +(ers' $uil!s first i#itiate! i# $erma#( 1188 t e first me#tio# of $uil!s for +(ers i# Eo#!o# 119; Ki#, Go # :of 2a,#a )arta fame= persua!e! -arliame#t to re,ulate !(ei#, of woole#s to prote0t t e publi0 from poor Cualit( ,oo!s 12**'s 7u0ellia, of 6lore#0e, re!is0o3ere! t e a#0ie#t art of ma&i#, purple !(e from li0 e#s se#t from Asia 2i#or :similar to %r0 ilsH= 1212 t e 0it( of 6lore#0e a! o3er 2** !(ers, fullers a#! tailors. A !ire0tor( of wea3ers a#! spi##ers was publis e! as well. 129* t e o#l( blue !(e of t e perio!, 1oa!, be,a# to be raise! exte#si3el( i# $erma#(. T e 3 ma@or !(es were #ow> woa!, ma!!er a#! wel!. 1321 'ra?ilwoo! was first me#tio#e! as a !(e, sour0e from /ast I#!ies a#! I#!ia. :t e

0ou#tr( of 'ra?il was #ame! for t e woo! fou#! t ere, #ot 3i0e 3ersa= 132;413;; /!war! III, 87o(al 1ool 2er0 a#t8 offere! prote0tio# to all forei,#ers li3i#, i# /#,la#! a#! to all w o wa#te! to 0ome to elp impro3e t e textile i#!ustr(. /arl( 1<t )e#tur( )e##i#o )e##i#i of -a!ua, Ital( !es0ribe! t e pri#ti#, of 0lot :blo0& pri#ti#,= i# is treatise 0alle! 2et o! of -ai#ti#, )lot s b( 2ea#s of 2oul!s. 1<t )e#tur( A?te0s u#!er 2o#te?uma 0o#Cuere! t e 2a(a#s. 11 2a(a# 0ities pai! a (earl( tribute of 2*** !e0orate! 0otto# bla#&ets a#! D* ba,s of )o0 i#eal :i#se0t !(e= ea0 . 1D29 t e 1st /uropea# boo& o# !(ei#, 2arie,ola +ell'Arte !e Te#tori was publis e! i# Ital( 1DFD -ope -aul II i#tro!u0e! t e so40alle! 8)ar!i#als' -urple8 w i0 was reall( s0arlet from t e Kermes i#se0t. T is be0ame t e first luxur( !(e of t e 2i!!le A,es @ust as Imperial -urple :2urex= a! bee# for t e a#0ie#t worl!. 1D;2 /!war! IV i#0orporate! t e +(ers' )ompa#( of Eo#!o# 1<*; 6ra#0e, Aolla#! a#! $erma#( be,i# t e 0ulti3atio# of !(e pla#ts as a# i#!ustr( 1<19 -i?arro a#! )orte? fi#! t at t ere is 0otto# i# )e#tral a#! "out Ameri0a. T e( se#! ba0& bri, tl( pri#te! fabri0s s owi#, t at t e I#!ia#s &#ew about blo0& pri#ti#, prior to t e )o#Cuest. )o0 i#eal from 2exi0o a#! -eru #ow bei#, s ippe! ba0& to "pai#. 1F1D !(ei#, 0lot 8i# t e woo!8 was i#tro!u0e! i# /#,la#!> lo,woo!, fusti0, et0. 1F3* +rebbel, a +ut0 0 emist, pro!u0e! a #ew brillia#t re! !(e from 0o0 i#eal a#! ti#. It was use! at $oblei# :-aris= a#! t e 'ow +(ewor&s :/#,la#!= 1F31433 T e /ast I#!ia )o. be,a# importatio# of 0ali0o from )ali0ut, I#!ia to /#,la#!. At first t e( t ou, t t e fabri0 was li#e#, #ot 0otto#. 2i!41F**'s /#,lis Eo,woo! 0utters i# Ao#!uras lea! a !a#,erous life :!a#,er from "pa#iar!s, urri0a#es, swamps, !isease= i# t e 'a( of )ampea0 (, but 0oul! ,et 3er( ri0 1F88 Games II, of /#,la#!, pro ibite! exportatio# of u#4!(e! 0lot from /#,la#! to elp bolster t e ome i#!ustr( for /#,lis !(ers o3er t at of t e "0ottis !(ers. 1F89 t e first 0ali0o pri#twor&s was be,u# i# $erma#( at Au,sbur, a#! was later to ,row i#to a lar,e i#!ustr( 18t )e#tur( 4 /#,lis !(e ouse ,ets 0o#tra0t to !(e t e 'u0&i#, am -ala0e $uar!s 0oats wit 0o0 i#eal. T is 0o#tra0t 0o#ti#ue! i#to t e 2*t )e#tur( still usi#, 0o0 i#eal.

1;*8 1illiam III si,#e! a law pro ibiti#, t e importatio# of pri#te! sil&s, t is o#l( ma!e 0ali0os a#! sil&s more popular 1;1F T ere were #ow more t a# 3* laws i# /#,la#! pro ibiti#, t e importatio# of 0ali0o a#! 0otto#I pri#ts be0ame more popular t a# e3er. 1;2; A met o! of blea0 i#, li#e# wit &elp :seawee!= was i#tro!u0e! i# "0otla#! 1;33 6l( s uttle i#3e#te! b( Go # Ka(, /#,la#! 1;D< I#!i,o be,i#s to be ,row# i# /#,la#!, after t e 7e3olutio# w e# it be0ame 0 eaper to import from t e /ast I#!ies 1;FF +r. )ut bert $or!o# pate#ts )u!bear :!eri3e! from is mot er's #ame= )ut bert was prepare! from a 3ariet( of li0 e#s. %#l( o#e of 2 #atural !(es e3er 0re!ite! to a# i#!i3i!ual :ot er is Cuer0itro# to 'a#0roft= 1;F9 Ar&wri, t's spi##i#, frame i# /#,la#! :a&a t e "pi##i#, Ge##(= 1;;D "we!is 0 emist, "0 eele, !is0o3ere! 0 lori#e !estro(e! 3e,etable 0olors b( obser3i#, a 0or& i# a bottle of (!ro0 lori0 a0i! 1;;D -russia# 'lue a#! "ulp uri0 a0i! a3ailable 0ommer0iall(. -russia# blue forme! from prussite of potas a#! iro# salt :0opperas=. A0tuall( o#e of t e earl( 0 emi0al !(es. 1;;< 'a#0roft i#tro!u0e! t e use of Cuer0itro# bar& as a #atural !(e. %#e of o#l( 2 #atural !(es w ose !is0o3erer is &#ow#, it (iel!s a (ellow, bri, ter t a# fusti0, a#! is from t e i##er bar& of No. Ameri0a# oa&. 1;8F 'ert olet, 6ra#0e, re0omme#!e! 0 lori#e water for 0ommer0ial blea0 i#,. %t er oxi!i?i#, a,e#ts be,a# to be use!, too> (!ro,e# peroxi!e, so!ium peroxi!e a#! so!ium perborate. 1;8< 'ell, /#,la#!, w o a! i#3e#te! pri#ti#, from plates, !e3elope! roller pri#ti#, 1;88 -i0ri0 a0i! a3ailable :(ellow !(e a#! !isi#fe0ta#t= 0oul! be !(e! from a0i! !(ebat o# wool 1;9* A0i! !is0 ar,e of mor!a#t pri#ti#, !e3elope! 1;9D T ree 6re#0 me# set up first 0ali0o pri#ti#, 1;9F Te##a#t !e3elope! blea0 i#, pro0ess 1;9; 'a#0roft !e3elops a pro0ess for steam fixatio# of pri#ts 1;98 %ber&ampf :i# Gou(, 6ra#0e= please! Napoleo# b( s owi#, im a roller pri#ter ma!e from a 0a##o# Napoleo# a! sei?e! from t e -ope. T is be,a# t e famous Toiles !e Gou( pro!u0tio#. 18*2 "ir 7obert -eel brou, t out a resist met o!, e a! pur0 ase! t e i!ea for from a

0ommer0ial tra3eller for eCui3ale#t of J2<. It 0o#siste! of a wax or ot er resist o# t e ba0&,rou#!, a0tuall( a bati& te0 #iCue !o#e o# lar,e s0ale. 1823 2er0er !is0o3ere! 0 romate !is0 ar,e of i#!i,o 182< 2at ias 'al!wi# :later of lo0omoti3e fame= be,a# t e first Ameri0a# pro!u0tio# of e#,ra3e! metal rollers for 0ali0o pri#ti#, w i0 were use! i# t e - ila!elp ia area a#! 0oul! pro!u0e 3** (!s of fabri0 per !a(. 183D 7u#,e, a $erma# 0 emist, #oti0e! t at upo# !istilli#, 0oal tar, a#ili#e woul! ,i3e a bri, t blue 0olor if treate! wit blea0 i#, pow!er. T is elpe! to pa3e t e wa( to t e !e3elopme#t of a#ili#e :basi0= !(es 22 (ears later. 18DD Go # 2er0er !is0o3ere! t at treati#, 0otto# wit 0austi0 so!a :l(e= w ile u#!er te#sio# impro3e! its stre#,t , luster, !(eabilit(, absorbe#0(. T e pro0ess was 0alle! 8mer0eri?atio#8. 18<F 1illiam Ae#r( -er&i# !is0o3ere! t e first s(#t eti0 !(e stuff 82au3e8 :a#ili#e, a basi0 !(e= w ile sear0 i#, for a 0ure for malaria a#! a #ew i#!ustr( was be,u#. It was a brillia#t fu0 sia t(pe 0olor, but fa!e! easil( so our i!ea of t e 0olor mau3e is #ot w at t e appeara#0e of t e ori,i#al 0olor was. 18<8 $riess !is0o3ere! !ia?otisatio# a#! 0oupli#, o#.i# t e fiber 18<84<9 2a,e#ta :fu0 si#= !is0o3ere! b( Ver,ui# t e 2#! basi0 !(e a#! more wi!el( use! t a# 2au3e 18F1 2et (l 3iolet, basi0 !(e, b( Eaut 18F2 Aofma##'s Violet, Aofma## was o#e of t e ,reat !(e 0 emists of all time 18F2 'ismar0& 'row# !e3elope! b( 2artius a#! Ei, tfoot, first soluble a?o !(e 18F3 A#ili#e 'la0&, !e3elope! b( Ei, tfoot, a bla0& pro!u0e! b( oxi!atio# of a#ili#e o# t e 0otto# fiber. 18FF 2et (l Violet, basi0 !(e 18F8 $raebe a#! Eieberma##, $erma# 0 emists, pro!u0e! ali?ari# :s(#t eti0 ma!!er=. t is was t e first time a s(#t eti0 substitute for a 3e,etable !(e a! bee# ma#ufa0ture!. 1.A.-er&i# also s(#t esi?e! it about t e same time, but i#!epe#!e#tl(. 18;2 2et (l $ree# b( Eaut a#! 'aubi,#(, still i# use, basi0 !(e 18;3 )a0 ou !e Ea3al, 1st sulp ur !(e, a brow#, b( $roissa#t a#! 'reto##iere, 6ra#0e 18;<4;F )aro a#! 1itt prepare! ) r(soi!i#e, 1st importa#t member of a?o 0lass of !(e 18;F )aro, a# importa#t !(e 0 emist, !is0o3ere! 2et (l 'lue, a# importa#t

18;; 2ala0 ite $ree#, basi0 !(e b( +ob#er a#! 6is er 18;8 'iebri0 "0arlet i#3e#te!, a 3er( pure re! a0i! !(e, ri3alli#, 0o0 i#eal i# bri, t#ess 18;8 3o# 'ae(er s(#t esi?e! s(#t eti0 i#!i,o. It was #ot mar&ete! u#til 189; 188* T omas a#! Aolli!a(, /#,la#!, s(#t esi?e! t e first a?o !(e forme! o# t e fabri0 b( 0oupli#,. Va0a#0ei#e re! forme! b( treati#, fabri0 wit #apt ol a#! t e# !ippi#, i# a !ia?oli?e! ami#e, a 3er( fast 0ate,or( of !(es. 188D )o#,o 7e! b( 'otti,er, first of t e !ire0t 0otto# !(es 188< 'e#?opurpuri#e, earl( !ire0t !(e b( +uisber,, bri, t a#! i, l( substa#ti3e 188< -ara 7e! !(e brou, t out b( 3o# $allois a#! Lllri0 . :' #apt ol a#! #itra#ili#e= 188<489 ) ar!o##et, 6ra#0e, ma!e t e first su00essful ra(o# a#! s owe! it at t e -aris /xpositio# of 1889. 188; 6irst a?o mor!a#t !(e, Ali?ari# 5ellow $$ 188; 7 o!ami#e ' :brillia#t re!43iolet= basi0 !(e 189* +ire0t 'la0& 'A, first !ire0t bla0& 1891 +iami#e $ree# ', first ,ree# a?o !(e 1891 ) ar!o##et built is first 0ommer0ial pla#t at 'esa#0o# for ma#ufa0turi#, ra(o#, b( t e ) ar!o##et pro0ess. 1891 +ire0t !(e4"&( 'lue 66, importa#t blue for ma#( (ears, ,oo! li, t fast#ess 1893 2#! "ulp ur !(e, Vi!al 'la0& 189< Vis0ose met o! of ma&i#, ra(o# i#3e#te! b( )ross a#! 'e3a#, /#,la#! was be,u#. T is is #ow t e most 0ommo# pro0ess for ma#ufa0ture of ra(o#. 1898 +ire0t 'la0& /, a bla0& !(e of ma@or importa#0e 19** 1 e# 2o?affer e! +i# be0ame " a of -ersia o#e of is first e!i0ts was to pro ibit t e use of a#ali#e !(es for ru,s. All a#ali#e !(es were sei?e! a#! publi0l( bur#e!. -e#alties i#0lu!e! @ail a#! fi#es eCual to !ouble t e 3alue of t e mer0 a#!ise. 19*1 7e#e 'o # pate#te! is i#3e#tio# of I#!a#t re#e 'lue 7", t e first a#t raCui#o#e 3at !(e, a 0ate,or( of !(es wit extremel( ,oo! fast#ess to li, t a#! was i#, 19*1 'o # !e3elope! 2#! 3at !(e, 6la#t re#e a (ellow 19*2 T esmar, 'auma##, +es0amps, a#! 6rossar! brou, t out (!rosulfite a#! sulfox(lateformal!e (!e.

19*< T io4i#!i,o 7e!, b( 6rei!la#!er, 1st i#!i,oi! !(e 19*8 A(!ro# 'lue, a ri3al to i#!i,o, !e3elope! b( )assella 191D L"A importi#, 9*M of its !(e stuffs, a problem !uri#, 11I, as ma#( 0ame from $erma#(. 191< Neola# !(e, 1st metalli?e! 0 rome !(e, !(e! from stro#, a0i! bat 1921 'a!er !e3elope! soluble 3at 0olors, t e I#!i,osols. 1922 t e AAT)) :Ameri0a# Asso0. of Textile ) emists a#! )olorists= forme! its first sub0ommittee to stu!( was fast#ess of pri#te! a#! !(e! 0otto#s, formulate testi#, pro0e!ures, sta#!ar!s of fast#ess. 192D I#!i,osol *, b( 'ae(er a#! "u#!er, 1st 0ommer0ial i#!i,osol !(e 1928 +upo#t be,a# t e fu#!ame#tal resear0 t at woul! lea! to !is0o3er( of #(lo# 193F 6irst pair of sto0&i#,s &#it wit a #ew s(#t eti0 fiber from +u-o#t 0alle! 8#(lo#8 for w i0 )arot ers re0ei3e! t e pate#t. 1938 N(lo# formall( i#tro!u0e! to t e publi0 19D8 Textiles be0ame se0o#! lar,est i#!ustr( i# L"A. T e a3era,e 0o#sumer 0o#sumptio# per 0apita of fibers> 2; lbs 0otto#, F.3 lbs ra(o#, D.9 lbs wool. 19<1 Ir,ala# !(es i#tro!u0e! b( $ei,(, 1st #eutral pre4metalli?e! !(es :!i! #ot reCuire a lot of a0i! as Neola#s !i!= )ibala#s are t e same t(pe. 19<* +upo#t i#tro!u0e! first 0ommer0ial a3ailabilit( of %rlo#, a #ew a0r(li0 8wool substitute8 19<1 +u-o#t a##ou#0e! t at a pla#t i# N.)aroli#a woul! be,i# to ma#ufa0ture +a0ro# pol(ester. 19<1 A #ew a0r(li0, A0rila#. was i#tro!u0e! b( ) emstra#! )orp. 19<3 )ibala# 'rillia#t 5ellow 3$E, a !(e w i0 lea! t e wa( to !is0o3er( of t e fiber rea0ti3e !(es was i#tro!u0e! 19<D )ela#ese )orp a##ou#0e! first 0ommer0ial pro!u0tio# of a# Ameri0a# tria0etate, Ar#el. 19<F I)I i# /#,la#! i#tro!u0e! -ro0io#, first ra#,e of fiber rea0ti3e !(e 4 t is !(e was to a3e a ma@or impa0t o# i#!ustr( as well as textile artists arou#! t e worl! :more ere= 19<F /astma# Ko!a& i#tro!u0e! Verel, a mo!ifie! a0r(li0 19<F Ameri0a# )(a#ami! i#tro!u0e! a #ew a0r(li0, )resla#

19<F %#e perso# wor&i#, out of e3er( ; i# t e L"A re0ei3e! is i#0ome from wor& performe! i# textile or apparel i#!ustriesN 19<; )I'A i#tro!u0es )iba0ro#s, a #ew ra#,e of rea0ti3e !(es a#! t e first to 0ompete wit I)I's -ro0io# series 19<8 /astma# Ko!a& i#tro!u0e! Ko!el pol(ester. 19FD 6irst perma#e#t press fi#is es use! 19F8 +u-o#t i#tro!u0es Oia#a, a fa#0( #(lo# wit 8sil&8 feel a#! !rape 19F8 6or t e first time ma#ma!e fibers toppe! #atural fibers for L" 0o#sumptio#. < billio# pou#!s 3s D.F billio# pou#!s, t e use of pol(ester was ,rowi#, t e most Cui0&l(. 19;*s Eate i# t e ;*s, )I'A4$ei,( i#tro!u0e! )iba0ro# 6 series : istor( ere=

T ese pa,es were espe0iall( prepare! b( "usa# ). +ru!i#, for er !(e semi#ar at )o#3er,e#0e 1982. T e( are #ot to be repro!u0e! wit out permissio#, please. )op(ri, t 1982 4 2*12 "usa# ). +ru!i#,

Note from "usa#> Normall(, I woul! a3e a biblio,rap ( or list of refere#0es atta0 e! to t is sort of istori0al listi#,, but si#0e I wrote t is for a le0ture ,i3e# more t a# 1D (ears a,o I was lu0&( to a3e e3e# fou#! t e 0op( of t e list, mu0 less m( sour0es. I woul! be please! to ear from a#(o#e wit 0orre0tio#s, a!!itio#s or su,,estio#s for up!ati#, t is list, but I am u#able to suppl( a#( a!!itio#al i#formatio# spe0ifi0all( for t is list.

6or some biblio,rap ( o# !(e 0 emistr( a#! istor( see t e spe0ial TAN repri#t o# fiber rea0ti3e !(es ere.

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