ElFlareAbdetTopoUpdatedJanuary4th2006

producedbywww.abdet.com
ElFlareButtressesAgreatselectionofroutesinabeautifulsettingthat
wouldprovideseveraldaysentertainmentformostmidgrade
climbers.Somegreatwallclimbingaswellassomesteeproutesonsector
Olbidada.Theunusual"rib"ontheGossosbuttressprovidesacoupleof
uniqueroutes.AndthestalagtitesinPiedraLiquidoarenottobemissed.
Thereareseveraltradroutesherethatarewellworthdoing,sobesureto
bringaselectionofnutsandcams.
Alsolookoutforthewildboarfootprintsdownthetrack.Youmaywellseea
fewofthesewonderingdownthetrackatduskifyouarelucky!
Photo:BruceJardineonthefirstascentofPiedraLiquida

AccessDrivebeyondGuadalest(towardsAlcoy)ontheCV70,
takethesignforL'abdetafewkm'sbeforereachingConfrides.
YoucanalsoaccessfromtheAlcoysideorfromSella(40
minutes).Afterturningoffthemainroadfollowthetwistingroad
downtoAbdetandyouwillpassaminortrackontheleftjust
afterthebridge(parkinoneofseveralareasontherightofthe
roadjustbeyond,orinthevillageitself).Walkbacktothetrack
andfollowitpastahairpinandpastaturnoffintoahouse.Take
therightforkwherethetracksplits,thefirstbuttressesarea
shortdistancefurtherontheright.Thereappearstobeno
accessproblems,butpleaserespecttheareaandleaveittidy.
JabaliandElArcosectorshaveindividualapproaches.
AspectElcragsfaceSouthWest,JabalisectorsfaceEastand
South,AlArcosectorfacesEast,andclimbingispossibleallyear
round.Theylieatanaltitudeof720Metres.
FacilitiesCheckoutthelocalbarsinAbdetandConfrides,self
cateringaccommodationisavailableinAbdetsee
www.abdet.com


PlacaOlbidadaThishiddenwallprovidesshortbutsteeprouteson
superbrock.ItisapproachedbywalkingunderneathElFlareButtressand
scramblingupthegullyunderneaththewall.Idealonhotdaysasitstays
inshadeuntillateintheday.

(1) .......................

7a+

(2)

6c+

.......................

(3)ViaCentral

............

6a+

15m.Bridgeupusingthebouldertoclipthefirstboltsustained.
FATomPhillips,BruceJardine26/08/05

(4) ......................

6c+

(5) LastoftheLast..........
6b+
13m.Ahardstarttogainthesmallledge,thenclimbthesequenceoftufa
holdsbeforeasteepfinish. FATomPhillips,AlistairShawcross31/12/05

5a+
(6) ViaIzquierda............
12m.Stepoffthesmallboulderandclimbtheleftarete,useofthejamed
bouldersinthegullylowersthegrade.
FATomPhillips,BruceJardine26/08/05

ElFlareButtressThisbuttressgivessomeexcellentroutes,allhavetwinboltloweroffs.Routesarearound25Metreslong.Routes4and5
requirenutsandcams

(1)Project ....................................
22m.

6b+
(2)KnockonWood
....................
22m.Aneasystartleadstothinmovestogaintheedgeofthelargeslopingledge,whichistrickytogetonto.Thensteepmovesupthetop
sectionongoodbutwidelyspacedholds leadtoaneasierfinish.
FA30/12/05TomPhillips,DickGerrish

6b
(3)NewYearsRevolutions ................
25m.Climbpastthelargeflakesandtacklesomehardmovesthroughtheoverlapsthecruxismovingupandlefttopassthefirstoverlap.
Movebackrighttoreacheasiergroundlowerofffromtop.
FA1/1/05DickGerrishandTomPhillips

6a
4)SecondoftheFirst ....................
25m.Climbtotheflakesandmakeaboldsteprighttoreachasequenceofgoodholdsonthesteepwalllowerofffromtop.
FA1/1/05DickGerrishandTomPhillips

6a+
(5)ElPlaca .............................
25mStraightupthesteepwall,steppingrightontothetoparteinagreatpositionlowerofffromtop.
FA28/10/2004TomPhillipsandDanDrew

(6)FlareCorner .........................
E15b
25m.ThinmovesupandrightallowentrytothecornerTheE1gradeallowsyoutoclipthefirstboltonroute3greatclimbingupthecorner,
steprightundertherooftogaintheupperwalllowerofffromtop
FA28/10/2004TomPhillipsandDanDrew

............................
(7)TheTrundle .

HS4b

20m.Climbtherightribandledgestoloweroff.Namedafterthemegatrundlewhilstcleaningtherouteseemovieclips
FA28/10/2004TomPhillipsandDanDrew

PlacaPrincipalThissectionisreachedafewyardsfurtheralongthetrack

6a
(1)Mahou .................................
5m.AshorttechnicalrouteBelayattheringboltatthetopofthesteepslope(care)beneathroutes3and4.
FATomPhillips,DickGerrish,SarahGerrish,12/8/2005

5a
(2)FinkBrau ........... ........... ..........
6m.ClimbtheobviousgroovedirectBelayattheringboltatthetopofthesteepslope(care)beneathroutes3and4.
FATomPhillips,DickGerrish,SarahGerrish,SharonGerrish14/8/2005

HVS
(3)SinAlcohol ........... ..............
20m.Fromtheringboltclimbupandlefttothearte(twoboltrunners).Thenclimbdirecttakingtoobviouscrackthroughthesmalloverhang.
FATomPhillips,DickGerrish,SarahGerrish,12/8/2005

(4)Buckler ........... ........... ...........

HVS

20m.Fromtheringboltclimbthegroovetoaledgemoverighttwoopposingflakesbeforetrendinglefttothebelay.
FATomPhillips,DickGerrish,SarahGerrish,SharonGerrish14/8/2005

(5)SanMiguel ................ ...........

6a+
30m.Thissuperbroutetakethesustainedsteeppillarbeginingthetree.Takecareatthestarttoavoidtheloosegullyontheright.Fromthe
topofthepedestallaunchuptheface,30metresof6amovestotheloweroff!AqualitySpanishproduct.
FATomPhillips,DickGerrish,SarahGerrish,SharonGerrish/8/2005

(6)ViaJardin ................ ...............

6a
40m.Weavesit'swayupthebigwall withtrickystartingmoves.Finishesbymovingrightontothetopofthepillar.Asthisrouteisisabout40
metreslongyoumaywanttosplititatthehalfwaypoint(belayringsinplace).
FATomPhillips/BruceJardine10/03/05

(7)SinCava ........... ..............

6a+

30m.Takesadirectlineupthesteepmainface.Verysustainedandwithalittlestinginthetail

FA TomPhillipsandSteveRogers21/4/05

(8)CrculoBlanco ............. ...........

6a+

30m.Directthroughthebulgeattheleftsideofthemainface,againhasalittlestinginthetail
FA TomPhillipsandSteveRogers21/4/05

6a+4+
(9)MarquesdeMonistrol .............
40mStartinthegully,bridgeupuntilbetterholdsallowyoutoswingoutontothemainface.Hugepocketsandjugsleadtothinnermoveson
thefaceabove.Moveupthenrighttogainalargeledgeandbelayrings.Thetoppitchiseasybutstillworthwhile.
FATomPhillips,DickGerrish,SarahGerrish,SharonGerrish14/8/2005

6a+
(10)ViaAlmendra ...................
35mAstunninglineuptheimposingpillarthatleansoutoverthetrack.Starttotherightofthepillarandantraverseacrossbrittlerockuntila
fewsteepmovesallowaccesstothecrackthatrunstothetopofthepillar.Itisjustpossibletoabseiltothestartingledgewitha60Metre
rope.
FATomPhillips/BruceJardine10/03/05

SectorLuiquidaRoutes3,4and5(SectorLiquida)startinabaytotheleftofViaAlmendra.Takecareaccessingthisbay.Thereisabelay
ringatthebottomofroute5.
.....
(11)GemaOcultado .

5a+
30m.Acunninglinestartingatthelowestpartoftherib.Climbup
untilitispossibletobridgeupthegullyforafewmoves(useofthe
treeisallowed!).Thenaholdontheleftwallallowsmovestobe
madeuptothearte.Continueuptoatrickylastmovetothelower
offpoint.
FATomPhillips/BruceJardine12/03/05

(12)Desviado ....
6b+
25m.Climbpastthesmalltreeandupthegrooveofcalcitedblocks
andflowstone(threadandtaperunners).Finallymovelefttofinda
coupleofgoodholdsthatallowaccesstotheoverhangingfinger
crack,steepandfierce!thecruxisgettingstoodontheledgeabove
thefingercrack.
FirstAscentTomPhillips/BruceJardine12/03/05

6a+
(13)PiedraLquida ....
25m.Magnificentclimbinguptheamazingflowstoneandstalactitesjustrightofthecorner.Asteepstartingmoveovertheinitialroofleadsto
aneasiersection.Steepmovesupthefirstsectionofstalactitesleadstoadifficultclip(avoidmovingintotheboulderfilledcorner!).Nowmove
backrightpastthefinalboltinordertocliptheloweroff.Finishingdirectisharder!
FirstAscentBruceJardine/TomPhillips12/03/05

(14)VivaAbdet
...........................
6a
30m.Agreatlinewithcontinualinterestandasteepfinish.Moveupandleftpassingasmallledgetogaintheflake.Continuestraightup
passingabulgenearthetoponsuperbpockets.Avoidtheuseofthedubiousflakesontherightoftheroute.Therouteis6aWITHOUTthe
useofthese.
FirstAscentTomPhillips/BruceJardine10/03/05

E2 5b
(5)Flared ............ ...................
20m.Bringoutyourbigcamsforthisone!Thecrackstartssteepandgnarly,andgetssteeperandmoregnarlyexcellent.Thereisagood
chockstonetothread.Belaywellbackusingnutsandtapes
FirstAscentTomPhillipsandDanDrew29/10/04

GossosandSpanishDazeButtresses
Thesebuttressesliefurtheralongthetrackfollowitalonguntilahairpinbendbackright,takethisturnandsoonyouwillseethebuttresses
andtheamazing"rib"ofGossosPillar.Followthetrackuntilalmostlevelwiththecrags.Thenheadacrosscountrytothecrags.Theeasiest
approachforbothareasistowalkaroundthetopanddownthelefthandside.

............ ...............
(1)Dan'sDilemma
HS4a
15m.StartfrombrokenledgeontherightsideoftheButtress,loveupandleftontothearteinafineposition,climbdirecttothetoptape
andslingbelays
FA1/11/04TomPhillips/DanDrew

(2)GossosPillar ............. ............

VS4b
20m.Auniqueandexcitingroutebridgeupbetweenthepillarandcrag(bold)untilmovescanbemaderightwardstogainthelaybackcrack
inaveryexposedposition.Climbtheslabsdirecttothetop.
FA1/11/04TomPhillips/DanDrew

(3)CostillodelPerro ......................
E15b
20m.Climbsdirectlyuptheoutsideofthe"rib".Startfromapositionbetweenthecragandthe"rib"andmakemovespastaboltrunnertoa
positionontheveryedgeoftherib.Climbdirectlyuptheribandthenupthefineupperslab.
FA29/12/2004TomPhillips/DickGerrish

(4)PosteriordelPerro ............ .............

VS4c
20m.Climbspasttheopen"caves"ontheleftoftherib.Bridgeupthetwocavesandmoverighttofinishupgrooves.
FA13/3/2005TomPhillips/BruceJardine

100MetresfurtherleftisSpanishDazeButtress

(5)SpanishDaze .................. ............

VD3a
20m.Startatthelowestpointofthebuttressandclimblargeblockstogaintheslabs,climbdirecttothetop.
FA29/12/2004TomPhillips/MatthewPhillips/DickGerrish

(6)SpanishHaze .................. ............

S4a

20m.Climbsteeplyuptherightslantingcrackbehindtheobviousbush.Keeptrendinginthesamedirectionintotheobviouspocketedscoop
atthetop.Goodnutandcamprotection .
FA18/3/2005BruceJardine,JoshuaJardine,ConnorJardine

ElArcoSectorAcrossthemain
roadliesasteepcragwithan
strikingcurvingcrack.(ElArcoThe
Bow).Therearecurrentlythree
routesonthelefthandsection.
Approach:Youcanparkattheside
ofthemainroadbeneaththecrag,at
theAbdetturnoff.Walkalongthe
mainroadtowardsConfridesfor50
metresandfollowafeinttrackonthe
bankbetweentwosignsupintothe
woods.Godirectlyuphillpassinga
smallsectionofbrokenterracewall,
thenheadleft,andup,andleftand
upalongaveryfeinttrackand
occaisionalcairnsuntilyoureacha
smallcaveattheEastendofthe
Buttresswhichprovidesagreatarea
forgearingup.Allroutesarebolted
andhaveloweroffs.

(1)SangreenLaRoca ........ ..............

6b

25m.Climbthesteepbulgesafewmetrestotheleftofthemaincrack.
FA15/11/05LeoFallon/TomPhillips

(2)ElReydelTufaFacil

....................

6a+

25m.Startupthetufafeaturesbeforecrossing"ElArco"(sharedbolt)andlaunchingupthedeceptivelysteepflakesandenourmoustufa
holds,steep!StepleftattoptoloweroffasforElArco
FA15/11/05TomPhillips/LeoFallon

(3)ElArco ............ ..........................

5a+
25m.Bridgeupintotheflakecrackandfollowthisallthewaytothetop,usingholdsontheleftofthecrack.
FA13/3/2005TomPhillips/MartynHurn27/10/05

JabaliSectors.ThesetwosectorslieclosetotheroadleadingintoAbdet.Theycatch
themorningsunandoffergoodclimbingataneasystandard.Theleftsectorsarebolted
whilsttherightsectoristrad.WalkuptheElflaretrackuntilyoureachthewood.Then
followavaguetrackupasmarkedonthetopotoreachthebuttresses.Allrouteshave
loweroffpoints.

(1)Potosi ............ ......................

25m.Thelefthandroutethroughthesmallbulge.

VS44+

FA21/10/05TomPhillips/MartynHurn

(2)LaPaz ............. ........................

HVS44

25m.Agoodlongroutedirectuptheface.

FirstascentofPotosiJabaliSector

FA21/10/05TomPhillips/MartynHurn

(3)Uyuni ...................................
HVS45
30m.Tacklesthewallandribstartingatthelowestpartofthebuttress.Trendrightup
thegroovenearthetoptoloweroff
FA21/10/05TomPhillips/MartynHurn

(4)LovelyJabali ....... ....................

VS45

24m.Startjustrightoftheareteclimbuptomeettheareteandfollowthistothetop
FA01/01/06DGerrish,SGerrish,AShawcross,EShawcross,TPhillips,LeeG

(5)TrottersTrading ...... .................

HS46a
24m.Startonemetrerightandclimbuppastathinsectionjustleftofthebulge,jointhe
areteforthelastfewmovestotheloweroff.
FA02/01/06DGerrish,SGerrish,AShawcross,EShawcross,TPhillips,LeeG

(6)BaconBeauty
........................
HVS45
24m.Thenextlinerightstartinguptheribandthenmakingatrickymoveright.Steeper
thanitlooks.
FA02/01//06DGerrish,SGerrish,AShawcross,EShawcross, TPhillips,LeeG
FirstascentofLaPazJabaliSector

50Metrestotherightarethrreetradroutes

(7)Cochabamba ............ ............

HVS4b

10m.Climbsthewallandrightsideofthewidegroove,stepleftatthetoptoloweroff.
FA2004TomPhillips

(8)Santiago .................. ..............

HVS4b

10m.Thecentreline
FA2004TomPhillips

(9)Sucre .................. ................

HVS4c
10m.Therighthandroutetakeshasacouipleofsteepmovesthroughthebulgebefore
theexcellentuppercrack.FA2005 BruceJardine


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