DINING OUT WITH ROB BALON

Hoovers Cooking 2002 Manor Rd. Austin, TX Owner/Chef: Hoover Alexander

hen it !o"es to down ho"e !oo#in$ with a dash of soul food thrown in, Hoover Alexander is to Austin !uisine what olf$an$ %u!# is to &os An$eles, or what 'o(() *la) is to +ew ,or#, or -"eril &a$asse to +ew Orleans. He is the "an. el!o"e to Hoover.s Coo#in$ on Manor Road. Hoover Alexander.s !ulinar) !ho/s are le$iti"ate. *ro" the earl) Ca0un da)s on 1th 2t. to the triu"/h of the le$endar) 3ood -ats 4whi!h ironi!all) wasn.t so $ood after Hoover left5, he.s left his "ar# on Austin dinin$ with an arra) of authenti! and e"inentl) tast) !how. 6 alwa)s li#e to (e$in with the Aus Tex win$s. These are s/i!), tender, and "ess) as hell (ut a(solutel) terrifi!. The) are a"on$ the tastiest win$s in a !it) that /rides itself on the". The 2/ina!h Arti!ho#e 7i/ is also reall) worth tr)in$. 6t.s $ot a wonderfull) "ellow flavor and a /erfe!t !onsisten!). Hoover.s 8ueso is also a (last. 6t.s a little on the s"o#) side (ut has a ver) ni!e flavor. 6t.s /erfe!t for di//in$ and tastin$. And don.t for$et to tr) the 2"o#ed Chi!#en Caesar salad. 6 love the dressin$ and the ho"e"ade !routons alon$ with the tender s"o#ed !hi!#en (reast. *or the lun!h !rowd, this !ould (e a "eal in itself. 'ut the real a//eal of Hoover.s lies in his e/i! southern9st)le dishes. The Chi!#en9*ried 2tea# would "eet an) southerner.s a//roval. 6t.s tender and deli!ious and ea!h stea# is hand (readed. Another /eo/le /leaser is the !o"fort9indu!in$ Meatloaf. 6n Hoover.s hands, this dish is elevated to a "u!h hi$her /lateau. 6t.s $ot a little :in$ to it fro" the onions, (ell /e//ers, and s/i!es, (ut it.s a deli$ht. 3et the "ashed /otatoes to $o alon$ with the !rea" $rav). And )ou "ust tr) ") favorite, the southern *ried %or# !ho/s. 6.ve had the" (readed, non9(readed, and s"othered. And 6 thin# 6." "ost /artial to the s"othered version. ow. 6." tal#in$ 8uintessential !o"fort food here. And )ou.ve $ot to order Hoover.s hand9ru((ed %or# Ri(s alon$ with a side of sausa$e fro" 2outhside "ar#et in -l$in. The ri(s are a"a:in$l) tender, (ut li#e "ost of Hoover.s fare, with a little (a!# (ite. +o southern restaurant would (e !au$ht dead without !atfish. And Hoover.s is worth )our attention. 6 love the Char(roiled Catfish with le"on9wine sau!e and so"e Ca0un s/i!e. And 6 would (e re"iss if 6 did not "ention Hoover.s sides. The "a!aroni and !heese is a (last, #i!#ed u/ with a (it of sour !rea". The O#ra is ver) $ood and the 3arli! !heese $rits are stunnin$. And there.s /ie and !o((ler fresh ever) da), all with that distin!tive ho"e"ade taste. And now, Hoover.s is o/en for (rea#fast on the wee#ends. ,ou want to tal# a(undan!e; How a(out the !orn "eal /an!a#es, or the a"a:in$l) (utter) etouffe, or sausa$e and (is!uits. ,ou.ve $otta tr) it. Hoover.s Coo#in$ is on Manor Road, a(out a "ile east of 69<=. Ta#e the Manor Road exit. 'rin$ )our friends, and (rin$ an a//etite. 'e!ause when Hoover is in the #it!hen, the feed is on>