Vertical Rescue (VR) Equipment Load Testing Report

Steve Cliffe (Wollongong SES) & Alan Sheehan (Oberon SES)

NSW SES VR Subject Matter Advisory Group (SMAG)

Introduction

This paper describes the results of some equipment load testing that was carried out
during a session at the Vertical Rescue Professional Development workshop held at
Kiama on 15-16 May 2004. The main purpose of this testing was to give the participating
Vertical Rescue Trainers an appreciation of the load that various equipment and knots
can withstand, and the way in which they fail.

Setup

The testing was conducted at the Kiama SES Unit’s headquarters. A load cell provided
by our State Headquarters was used to give an accurate load reading at the point of
failure with it’s peak hold function. The load cell was a Straightpoint NIP/5T 5tonne full
scale load cell with remote display unit. It has a display accuracy of +/- 0.5kg, and a
measurement accuracy of +/- 2 kgs over the full scale range according to the calibration
data.

Two trees approximately 25m apart used as anchor points. At one tree the load cell was
anchored and then attached to a length of old 11mm Bluewater static rope via a double
figure-8 loop. At the other tree a Tirfor winch was anchored with it’s cable setup with a
SWR snatch block to give a 2:1 mechanical advantage. The snatch block was attached
to another length of old 11mm Bluewater static rope via a double figure-8 loop. The non-
anchored ends of the 11mm rope were then joined with knots or equipment under test.

For safety, anchored lengths of 9mm rope were attached to the 11mm main rope via
prussik loops either side of the equipment or knot being tested to catch the rope after a
failure.

A diagram of the setup used appears below:

Test 1: 6mm triple-wrap prussik loop

For this test one 11mm rope was connected to a prussik loop formed from 6mm static
cord via a steel screwgate karabiner. The loop was then attached to the other 11mm
rope with a triple-wrap prussik loop.

Results

The prussik cord snapped at 600 kgf away No photo available.

from both knots indicating a possible weak
or damaged spot in the cord.

Test 2: 6mm double-wrap prussik loop

The same cord from Test 1 was re-tied into a loop and then attached via a double-wrap
prussik knot.

Results

The prussik cord snapped at

891 kgf. Some slippage and
heat damage was evident in
the 11mm rope near the
prussik knot.

Note the necking and

removal of fuzz on the 11mm
rope to the left of the prusik.
Careful examination shows
the cord failed in the knot,
and friction from slippage in
the knot created enough
heat to weld the loop to the
rope before the knot slipped
fully undone.

Test 3: 8mm triple-wrap prussik loop

For this test one 11mm rope was connected to a prussik loop formed from 8mm static
cord via a steel screwgate karabiner. The loop was then attached to the other 11mm
rope with a triple-wrap prussik loop.
Results

The prussik cord

snapped at 1392 kgf at
the prussik knot after
slipping approximately
20cm on the 11mm rope.
The 20cm length of
11mm rope suffered heat
damage and was visibly
thinner and stiffer than
the rest of the rope. The
prussik knot itself had
fused with the resultant
heat.

Note the melted prusik

loop material in the
interstices of the rope
sheath on the LHS of the
knot. Note also the
melted prusik loop
sheath material extruded
between the wraps of the
knot.

Test 4: Double figure-8 knot - incorrectly tied

The two ends of 11mm rope were joined with a double figure-8 knot so that both ropes
entered the knot from the same end. This method of joining ropes it not used in Vertical
Rescue but has become popular with canyoners so we were curious as to it’s strength
and behaviour.

Results

The
abnormally
tied figure
eight bend.
Note the
length of the
short tail prior
to loading.
Approximatel
y 3-4cm
slippage was
observed at
the knot. Note
the length of
the short tail
underload.

One of the
11mm ropes
snapped at
the knot at
1237 kgf
(LHS) and
peeled half a
bend out of
the knot.

WARNING: The author has observed the abnormally tied figure eight bend
slipping under normal abseil loads, and as such expressly warns against
this knot’s use for any life support activity.
Test 5: Double fisherman’s knot

For this test we compared the results of the previous test with the method we normally
use to join two ropes, namely the double fisherman’s knot.

Results

One of the 11mm ropes

snapped at the knot at
1443 kgf (LHS). No
noticeable knot slippage
was observed.

Test 6: CMI Hand Ascender

For this test a CMI hand ascender was connected to one of the 11mm ropes via a steel
screwgate karabiner. The ascender was then attached to the other 11mm rope via it’s
cam.

Results

The ascender failed at 779 kgf with the

rope and cam being pulled through the
ascender. The 11mm that was attached
via the cam suffered sheath and some
core damage. The body of the ascender
showed stress damage in the area
around the cam.
Note the cam pulled completely through
on the ascender. This is somewhat
unusual for a statically loaded ascender.
Note the crack in the side of the “J”
groove.

The rope damage is also a little unusual,

showing a “second chunk” out of the
sheath joining the original sheath
damage. This suggests the ascender tore
the sheath and gripped again at the edge
of the original damage – the resulting
shock load destroying the ascender.
End view of the damaged ascender. The
cam pivot has bent causing the
misalignment of the cam. The “J” groove
was also cracked. This type of failure of
the ascender is not the expected failure
mode. Usually the ascender tears a chuck
out of the rope, and slips until the load is
relieved then grips again.

We suspect this ascender gripped again

before the load was relieved, and the
resulting shock load has resulted in the
damage to the ascender itself.

Test 7: Alpine Clutch

One of the 11mm ropes was attached to two steel screwgate karabiners. The other
11mm rope was then attached to the karabiners via an alpine clutch.

Results
The 11mm rope snapped
at the alpine clutch at
1404 kgf.

This photo shows the

alpine clutch with some
load applied.

This photo shows the

rope ends after the rope
failed in the alpine clutch.

We did not expect the

alpine clutch to perform
as well as it did. We
expected the rope to be
cut at lower loads.
Incidental Samples:
A double
fishermans knot in
the system
following the 8mm
triple wrap prusik
test. I.e. this knot
had been loaded
several times
including loaded
to 1392 kgs.

Figure 8 loop that

survived all the
load tests
including several
load applications
in excess of
1400kgs.

Another Figure 8
loop that survived
all the load tests
including several
load applications
in excess of
1400kgs.
This prusik knot
was one of the
safeties to prevent
the rope from
recoiling
dangerously. This
prusik was
dynamically
loaded only as a
result of the recoil
from one of the
tests that let go at
about 1400 kgs.
Note the prusik
slipped approx.
30mm (LHS of
knot) before
welding to the
rope.

Disclaimer

The information provided in this paper is presented in good faith. While every
effort has been made to eliminate mistakes and false information from the
information included in this paper, errors may occur. The authors, and The New
South Wales State Emergency Service, its employees, volunteers and Units do
not accept responsibility for any errors contained in this paper or for the results of
the application of this information correct or otherwise. Vertical Rescue is a
hazardous activity and requires appropriate quality equipment, and sound initial
and ongoing training, teamwork, discipline, protocols and procedures to be
executed safely. Check your vertical rescue protocols before applying the
information provided in this paper.