Textile Glossary

Aba
A Loose Cloak, Possibly Of Arabian Origin. Related To The Jama In Men's Wear, An
d To The Abbo (q.v.) in Women's.
Abaca
Fibre Obtained From The Plant Musa Textiles, Commonly Known As Manila
Abho
A Loose Shirt-like Garment, Worn By Women Mostly In Gujarat And Rajasthan. The G
arment Was Generally Worn With Short, Wide Sleeves, Open At The Neck, Loose-fitt
ing On The Upper Part And Really Flared In Its Skirt. Often Decorated With Embro
idery And Mirror-glass Work.
Abstract
Refers To A Design In The Abstract Style, I.e. One That Represents A General For
m And Not An Accurate Representation Of A Subject.
Accessories
Additional Ornamentation To Accompany The Garment In Order To Create A Certain L
ook/image. (shoes, Jewelries Etc.)
Accordion
1x1 Rib Knit Alternating With A 2x2 Rib.
Acetate (fibre) (generic Name)
The Term Used To Describe Fibres Of Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate) Wherein Betwee
n 74% And 92% Of The Hydroxyl Groups Of The Original Cellulose Are Ethanoylated
(acetylated). Purified Cellulose Is Ethanoylated (acetylated) By Ethanoic Anhydr
ide (acetic Anhydride) In The Presence Of A Catalyst (such As Sulphuric Acid Or
Perchloric Acid) In A Solvent Such As Dichloromethane (methylene Chloride) Or Et
hanoic (acetic) Acid. The Reaction Proceeds Until Primary Cellulose Acetate Cont
aining 60% Of Combined Ethanoic Acid Is Formed. Secondary Cellulose Acetate Is F
ormed From The Primary Acetate By Partial Hydrolysis. It Is Obtained By Adding W
ater In Excess Of That Required To React With The Residual Ethanoic Anhydride, W
hich Thus Allows The Hydrolysis To Take Place.
Acetone-soluble Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate)
When The Hydrolysis Of Primary Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate) Is Allowed To Proce
ed Until Approximately 54% Of Combined Ethanoic (acetic) Acid Remains In The Pro
duct, The Cellulose Acetate Is Soluble In Propanone (acetone) And Is Sometimes K
nown As Acetone-soluble Cellulose Acetate.
Acetylation
The Process Of Introducing An Ethanoyl (acetyl) Radical Into An Organic Molecule
.
Achkan
A Men's Long-sleeved Coat-like Garment, Worn Close To The Body, Reaching Down To
The Knees Or Even Lower, And Buttoned In Front-middle.
Acid Dye
An Anionic Dye Characterized By Substantiality For Protein And Polyamide Fibres
And Usually Applied From An Acidic Or Neutral Dye bath.
Acrylic (fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Havin
g In The Chain At Least 85% (by Mass) Of Recurring Cyanoethene (acrylonitrile) G
roups.
Acrylic Coated
A Fabric Which Has Been Coated, Generally On The Back, With Acrylic Resin To Mak
e It Waterproof Or Dawnproof.
Addition Polymerization
See Polymerization, Addition
Affinity
The Quantitative Expression Of Substantiality. It Is The Difference Between The
Chemical Potential Of The Dye In Its Standard State In The Fibre And The Corresp
onding Chemical Potential In The Dye bath.
Aguillettes
Metal-tagged Laces That Replaced The Sewn Ones, To Attach The Breeches To The Do
ublet.
Air Laying
A Method Of Forming A Web (or Batt) Of Staple Fibres In Which The Fibres Are Dis
persed Into An Air Stream And Condensed From The Air Stream On To A Permeable Ca
ge Or Conveyor.
Albatross
A Lightweight, Plain Weave Fabric Traditionally Of Wool Or Wool Blends With A Na
pped, Fleecy Surface . So Named Because The Texture Resembles The Breast Of An A
lbatross. Usually Light In Color- Used In Infant's Wear , Sleep Wear.
Alencon Lace
A Needlepoint Lace On A Fine Net Ground Characterized By A Heavy Thread (cordonn
et) Outlining The Design. Usually Machine Made But Sometimes The Cordonnet Is In
serted By Hand.
Alginate (fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Metallic Salts Of Alginic Acid.
Alkali-cellulose
The Product Of The Interaction Of Strong Sodium Hydroxide With Purified Cellulos
e.note: In The Manufacture Of Viscose Fibres, The Cellulose May Be Cotton Linter
s Or Wood-pulp. After Pressing, Alkali-cellulose Usually Contains Approximately
30% Of Cellulose And 15% Of Sodium Hydroxide, The Remainder Being Water. During
The Steeping Of The Cellulose In Sodium Hydroxide (18-20% W/w) To Form The Alkal
i-cellulose, Soluble Impurities, Including Soluble Cellulose Are Removed.
Alligator Skin
A Design, Printed Or Embossed, That Suggests The Characteristic Texture Of An Al
ligator.
Allonge-perruqe
French Term For Periwig, Also Called State-wig. Worn By Fashionable Men In The L
ate 17th, Early 18th Century, Introduced Probably By Louis Xiv And Usually In Bl
ack Or Dark Brown Shades. The Periwig Had Very High "horns" On Top Of The Forehe
ad And Was Extremely Long, Curled And Flowing Down The Back And Over The Shoulde
rs.
Allover Lace
General Term For A Wide Lace In Which The Pattern Covers The Full Width Of The F
abric . It Is Generally Sold And Cut In The Same Way As Non Lace Fabrics.
Alpaca Fibre (hair)
Fibre From The Fleece Of The Alpaca (lama Pacos) Which Inhabits The High Mountai
n Region Of South America.
Alter
To Change The Pattern So That It Corresponds To Body Measurements.
Amadis Sleeve
Tight-fitting Sleeve Continuing On The Back Of The Hand, Invented In 1684 By Mll
e Le Rochois, An Actress At The Opera, Who Had Unsightly Arms.
Anaphe
A Wild Silk From The Larvae Of The Anaphe Moth.
Angarakfia
A Long, Full-sleeved Outerwear For Men; Literally 'that Which Protects Or Covers
The Limbs'. Closely Related To The Jama (q.v.), But Possibly Of Native, Indian
Origin. Generally Open At The Chest And Tied In Front, With An Inner Flap Or Par
da Covering The Chest. Full-skirted And Of Varying Lengths.
Angiaiangika
Short, Tight-fitting Bodice Worn By Women In India From Very Early Times. Litera
lly, 'covering For The Body'.
Angora
The Hair Of The Angora Rabbit. The Origin Of The Angora Breed Ins Unclear. It Is
Believed To Come From France, Developed From A Mutation In A Wild Rabbit, In Th
e 18th Century. Note: The Hair Of The Angora Goat Is Referred To As Mohair.
Anidex (fibre)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Made From A Synthetic Linear Polymer That Consist
s Of At Least 50% By Mass Of One Or More Esters Of A Monohydric Alcohol And Prop
enoic Acid (acrylic Acid).
Animal Skin
Refers To A Design Which Suggests The Skin Of An Animal . Leopard, Tiger, Zebra
And Giraffe Are Popular Motifs.
Anionic Dye
A Dye That Dissociates In Aqueous Solution To Give A Negatively Charged Ion.
Antheraea Spp.
See Tussah Silk. See Also Fibre Types
Anti Bacterial
Finish That Makes A Fabric Resistant To The Growth Of Bacteria.
Anti Pill
A Finish Applied To Fleece Which Involves Shearing The Surface So That The Fabri
c Is Less Likely To Pill
Antique Satin
A Reversible Fabric - One Side Looks Like Satin And The Other Side Like Shantung
. It Often Has A Dark Warp Which Enhances The Texture. Often Used For Draperies.
Antique Taffeta
A Stiff Plain Weave Fabric , Often Iridescent, With A Slubbed Weft. May Be Of Si
lk Or Synthetics.
Antron
Brand Of Nylon Fiber Trademarked By The Du Pont Co.
Apparent Wall Thickness
The Apparent Width Of A Fibre Wall As Seen Under The Microscope. In The Maturity
Test For Cotton, The Apparent Wall Thickness Is Assessed Visually At The Widest
Part Of The Fibres As A Fraction Of The Maximum Ribbon Width.
Aramid (fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Havin
g In The Chain Recurring Amide Groups, At Least 85% Of Which Are Joined Directly
By Two Aromatic Rings And In Which Amide Groups May Be Substituted For Up To 50
% Of The Amide Groups.
Argentan Lace
A Needlepoint Lace On A Net Ground Similar To Alencon Lace But On A Larger Net A
nd Without The Cordonnet Outline Thread Of Alencon.
Argyle
A Design Of Various Colored Diamond Shaped Blocks On A Single Colored Ground, Us
ually Crossed By Lines In A Diamond Shape. Popular In Sweaters And Hosiery.
Art/embroidery Linen
A Balanced Plain Weave Fabric Usually Of Linen Or Linen/cotton . It Is Made From
Smooth Round Yarns (not Flattened By Calendering) . Used As A Base For Embroide
red Table Linen, Pillowcases, Also In Drapes, Slipcovers And Some Apparel. Also
Called Embroidery Crash.
Asbestos
A Generic Name Used To Describe A Family Of Naturally Occurring Fibrous Hydrated
Silicates Divided On The Basis Of Mineralogical Features Into Serpentines And A
mphiboles. Six Varieties Were Of Commercial Importance : Serpentine: Chrysotile
Mg3 (si2o5) (oh)4, Amphiboles: Actinolite Ca2 (mgfe)5 (si6o22) (oh)2, Asbestos G
runerite ( Amosite) (femg)7 (si6o22) (oh)2, Anthhophyllite (mgfe)7 (si6o22)(oh)2
, Crocidolite Na2fe2+3fe3+2(si6o22)(oh)2, Tremolite Ca2mg5(si6o22)(oh)2,the Six
Varieties Are Deemed To Be Asbestos Only When They Have A Fibrous Form., Note: A
sbestos Is No Longer Used Because Of The Associated Health Risks.
Asharfi Buti
A Popular Textile Design Consisting Of Small Floral Discs Or Circles, Sometimes
With Small Patterns Within The Circle.
Astrakhan
A Thick Woven Or Knitted Cloth Often Of Wool With A Surface Of Loops Or Curls, I
mitating The Coat Of An Astrakhan Lamb. Also Called Poodle Cloth. Used For Coats
And Trimming.
Atactic Polymer
A Linear Polymer Containing Asymmetrically-substituted Carbon Atoms In The Repea
ting Unit Of The Main Chain, A Planar Projection Of Whose Structure Has The Same
Substituents Situated Randomly To Any One Side Or The Other Of The Main Chain,
Atansaw
A Wide, Commodious Chogha (q.v.)like Garment For Wrapping Around The Body.
Atlas
A Warp Knit Fabric In Which A Set Of Yarns Shifts Diagonally One Wale Per Course
For Several Courses , Then Returns To The Original Position.
Atmosphere For Testing
(a) Standard Temperate Atmosphere : An Atmosphere At The Prevailing Barometric P
ressure With A Relative Humidity Of 65% And A Temperature Of 20?c, (b) Standard
Tropical Atmosphere : An Atmosphere At The Prevailing Barometric Pressure With A
Relative Humidity Of 65% And A Temperature Of 27?c
Awning Stripe
1. A Design Of Wide Even Stripes 2. A Heavy Canvas Fabric With This Design. May
Be Yarn Dyed Or Printed.
Azlon (fibre) (USA)
A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres In Which The Fibre-forming Substance
Is Composed Of Any Regenerated Naturally Occurring Protein. The Iso Generic Nam
e Is Protein.
Baby Alpacer
See Alpaca Fibre
Backtanning
An After-treatment To Improve The Wet Fastness Of Dyed Or Printed Silk Or Nylon,
Using Either Natural Or Synthetic Tanning Agents.
Badla
Flat Metallic Wire, Often Silver-gilt, Used In Brocading And Embroidery.
Baghal Bandi
A Kind Of Tunic Or Jacket, Worn Shorts And Fastened Under The Armpits.
Balabar
An Outer Garment, Worn By Men, Related In Shape To The Coat-like Ashcan
Balagny Cloak
First Half Of 17th Century, Cloak Or Cape With Wide Collar, In France Named Afte
r A Military Hero.
Balanced Stripes
A Design Of Stripes That Are Even In Width And Spacing.
Baldrick
(french Bandelier) Sword Hanger, Usually Decorated With Exquisite Embroidery, (o
ften Metal Thread Embroidery) And Worn From The Right Shoulder To The Left Hip,
Usually Over The Waistcoat Or Earlier Bolero-style Doublet, But Under The Coat O
r Justaucorps. Frequently Worn Over The Coat To Show Off The Embroidery, When Th
e Baldrick Had Become Very Broad And Long. The Sword (rapier, Later Also Dress-s
word) Hangs Very Low At The Knees.
Bale Breaker
A Machine Used For Opening Cotton Direct From A Bale. Layers Of Compressed Cotto
n Are Taken From A Bale And Fed Into A Machine Where The Tearing Action Of Two C
oarse Spiked Rollers Moving In Opposite Directions, Produces A More Open Mass Of
Tufts.
Bale Dyeing
(1) Dyeing Of Loose Stock ( Usually Synthetic-polymer Fibre ) In The Form Of An
Unpacked Bale.,(2) In The USA, A Low Cost Process For Dyeing Cotton Fabric To Pr
oduce A Coloured Warp And White Weft.
Bandanna
A Print Design Characterized By White Or Brightly Colored Motifs On A Dark Or Br
ight Ground, Most Often Red Or Navy. Done By Discharge Or Resist Printing But Or
iginally Done In India By Tie Dyeing. 2. A Fabric, Usually Cotton With Such A De
sign.
Bandelier
See Baldrick.
Bandhani
A Process Of Patterning Cloth By Tie-dyeing In Which The Design Is Reserved On T
he Undyed Cloth By Tying Small Spots Very Tightly With Thread To Protect Them Fr
om The Dye. Especially Popular In Rajasthan And Gujarat.
Banyan
Name Given In England To Men's Jacket In Indian Cloth. The Term Is Mostly Used F
or Indoor Garments 'dressing Gowns'.
Barathea
An Indistinct Twill Or Broken Rib- Usually A Twilled Hopsack Weave- With A Fine
Textured ,slightly Pebbled Surface . Often Of Silk Or Silk Blended With Wool, Us
ed For Neckties, Women's Fine Suits And Coats Men's And Women's Evening Wear.
Bare Pychon Ka Pyjama
A Pyjama (q. V) With Wide, Flared Legs.
Bark Cloth
Originally Referred To Fabric Made From The Bark Of Trees. Now The Term Is Used
To Describe Fabric With A Surface Texture Resembling Tree Bark.
Barras
A Coarse Linen Fabric Similar To Sackcloth; Originally Produced In Holland.
Barrier Fabric
Fabrics That Are Barriers To Dust , Dust Mites And Associated Allergens.
Bas De Cotte / De Jupe / De Robe
In The Second Half Of The 17th Century This Term Was Used For The Lower Part Of
The Petticoat Or Skirt, Which Went With The Petticoat Or Skirt Body, Covered By
The Gown Body.
Basic Dye
A Cationic Dye Characterized By Its Substantivity For Basic-dyeable Acrylic And
Basic-dyeable Polyester Fibres, Especially The Former. The Term Was Originally A
pplied To Tannin-mordant Cotton Dyes.
Basin Waste; Basine?s
The Silk Waste Consisting Of Cocoons That Could Not Be Completely Reeled Because
Of Too Frequent Breaks In The Thread.
Basket Stitch
A Knit Construction With Mostly Purl Loops In The Pattern Courses To Give A Bask
et Weave Look
Basket Weave/hopsack
A Variation Of Plain Weave In Which 2 Or More Yarns In Both The Warp And Weft Ar
e Woven Side By Side To Resemble A Basket.
Basques
Mid-17th Century. French Word For Short Tabs At Bodices And Male Doublets That E
xtended Below The Waist. Those Jackets With Basques Were Worn In Combination Wit
h Skirts Instead Of Gowns.
Bast Fibre
Fibre Obtained From The Stems Of Various Plants.
Batik
A Traditional Indonesian Dyeing Process In Which Portions Of Fabric Are Coated W
ith Wax And Therefore Resist The Dye. The Process Can Be Repeated To Achieve Mul
ti-color Designs. Fabric Usually Has A Veined Appearance Where The Dye Has Gone
Through The Cracks In The Wax.
Batiste
1. A Sheer, Fine, Soft, Light Weight, Plain Weave Fabric Usually Of Combed Cotto
n Or Polyester/cotton. It Often Has Lengthwise Streaks Due To The Use Of 2 Ply Y
arns. Used For Shirts Blouses Dresses Nightwear And Lingerie. 2. A Lightweight S
mooth All Wool Fabric. 3.a Sheer Silk Fabric.
Batt; Batting (u.s.a.)
See Web
Bave
The Silk Fibre Complete With Its Natural Gum ( Sericin ) As It Is Withdrawn From
A Cocoon. It Is Composed Of Two Brins.
Beaded
Referring To A Fabric Embellished With Beads.
Beading Lace
A Machine Made Lace With A Row Of Openwork Holes Designed For The Insertion Of A
Decorative Ribbon.
Beaver Cloth
A High Quality, Heavy, Soft Wool Cloth With A Deep, Smooth Nap. Used In Overcoat
s.
Bedford Cord
A Woven Fabric Constructed To Show Pronounced Rounded Cords In The Warp Directio
n With Sunken Lines Between Them. Used In Trousers, Uniforms, Hats, Upholstery.
Beet
A Bundle Or Sheaf Of Tied Flax Crop Or Straw.
Beetled
A Finishing Process In Which A Fabric Usually Linen Or Cotton Is Pounded To Prod
uce A Hard Flat Surface With A Sheen.
Bellies (wool)
The Coarser Quality Of Wool From The Underside Of Sheep.
Bemberg
Brand Of Cupramonium Rayon.
Bengaline
A Durable Plain Weave Fabric Characterized By Widthwise Cords Formed By Using Fi
ne Warp Yarns And Course Weft Yarns, Used In Dresses, Coats, Suits, Ribbons, Dra
peries.
Bias
Any Direction In The Fabric Which Does Not Exactly Flow In The Direction Of The
Weft Yarn (vertical Yarns) Or Warp Yarns (horizontal Yarns) Of A Fabric. A True
Bias Makes An Angle Of 45 Degree Across The Length And Width Of A Fabric, Fabric
Cut On A Bias Has Maximum Stretch.
Bicomponent Fibre
A Man-made Fibre Having Two Distinct Polymer Components. Both Components Are The
mselves Usually Fibre Forming. Wool And Some Other Animal Fibres Are Sometimes C
onsidered To Be Bicomponent Since They Possess A Side-by-side Configuration Of T
he Ortho- And Para-cortex Which Results In Crimp In The Fibre.
Binche Lace
A Lace In Which The Lace Motifs Are Appliqu?d To A Machine Made Net Ground. Orig
inally Made In Binche Belgium.
Birdseye
1. A General Term For A Fabric With A Surface Texture Of Small, Uniform Spots Th
at Suggest Bird's Eyes. Can Be Woven Or Knit. 2 A Design That Suggests A Bird's
Eyes.
Birefringence
The Difference Between The Refractive Index Of A Fibre Measured Parallel To The
Fibre Axis Nii And That Measured Perpendicular To The Fibre Axis Nl:, Dn = Nii -
Nl, Birefringence Is Frequently Used As A Measure Of The Orientation Of The Mac
romolecules Within The Fibre.
Biscuit
One Of Several Narrow Cylindrical Cheeses Of Yarn Wound As A Composite Package O
n A Single Former Side By Side But Not Touching. Biscuit Packages Are Used As Th
e Take-up In Some Synthetic-fibre Extrusion Systems.
Bisu
See Husks
Blanket Plaid
A Large Vividly Colored Plaid Design Such As Those Often Found On Blankets.
Blaze
See Cocoon Strippings, Also Termed Keba.
Bleached
Chemical Treatment To Remove Impurities And Whiten The Fabric. It Can Be Done Ei
ther In Preparation For Dyeing And Finishing Or To Obtain Clean Whites In Finish
ed Fabric.
Bleaching
The Procedure Of Improving The Whiteness Of Textile Material, With Or Without Th
e Removal Of Natural Colouring Matter And/or Extraneous Substances, By A Bleachi
ng Agent.
Bleaching Agent
A Chemical Reagent Capable Of Destroying Partly Or Completely The Natural Colour
ing Matter Of Textile Fibres, Yarns And Fabrics, And Leaving Them White Or Consi
derably Lighter In Colour. Examples Are Oxidizing And Reducing Agents. Amongst T
he Former, Hydrogen Peroxide Is Widely Used.
Blending
A Process Or Processes Concerned Primarily With Efficient Mixing Of Various Lots
Of Fibres. Blending Is Normally Carried Out To Mix Fibres, Which May Be Of Diff
erent Physical Properties, Market Values, Or Colours.
Blinding
A Marked And Undesirable Loss Of Lustre Of Fibres Caused By Wet Processing.
Blister Fabric
See Cloque/ Blister Fabric
Blitz
A Light To Medium Weight Woven Fabric With A Filament Warp And Spun Weft. Often
Has A Very Fine Crosswise Rib. Common Blends Are Acetate/rayon And Polyester/ray
on.
Block Copolymer
A Copolymer In Which The Repeating Units In The Main Chain Occur In Blocks, E.g.
,-(a)m-(b)n-(a)p-(b)q- ,where A And B Represent The Repeating Units.
Block Printed
A Hand Printing Method Using Wood, Metal, Or Linoleum Blocks. The Design Is Carv
ed On The Blocks , One Block For Each Color. The Dye Is Applied To The Block Whi
ch Is Pressed Or Hammered Against The Fabric.
Blotch Print
Refers To A Print In Which A Large Area Of Uniform Color Is Printed. The Printed
Ground Is Referred To As The Blotch.
Blowing Room
The Room In A Cotton Spinning Mill Where The Preparatory Processes Of Opening, C
leaning And Blending Are Carried Out.
Bobbin Lace
A Handmade Lace Using A Pillow To Hold Pins Around Which Thread Is Intertwined.
Bobbins Are Used To Hold And Feed The Thread. Also Called Pillow Lace Or Bobbine
t.
Boiled Wool
A Wool Or Wool Blend Fabric, Woven Or Knitted Which Has Been Given A Course, Cre
pey Texture By Heavy Felting Or By Putting It In A High Temperature Bath.
Boiling Off
See Degumming.
Boll
A Seed Case And Its Contents, As Of Cotton Or Flax.
Bolt
See Piece
Bonded
A Fabric Composed Of 2 Or More Layers Joined Together With An Adhesive ,resin, F
oam, Or Fusible Membrane.
Bonnet
Ladies' Headdress Covering The Back Of The Head And Having The Brim In Funnel Fo
rm To Shade The Face.
Book
A Parcel Of Hanks Of Raw Silk Whose Total Mass Is Usually 2 Kg.
Boot-hose
In The First Half Of The 17th Century, Stockings Usually Without Feet Worn In Th
e Soft Fashionable Boots With Turned Cup-shaped Tops ("bucket"-tops). The Lace-e
dge Of The Boot-hose Is Turned Over The Boot-tops. ("cavalier"-style). They Were
Worn Over The Silk Stockings To Protect Them In The Long Boots.
Border
A Design Placed Along The Edge Of The Fabric Or Engineered In Such A Way That It
Will Fall On The Edge Of The Finished Product. Border Designs Are Frequently Us
ed In Skirts And Dresses.
Botanical
Referring To Designs Dominated By Motifs Depicting Plant Life.
Botany Wool
A Term Applied To Tops, Yarns And Fabrics Made From Merino Wool. The Term Origin
ated From Botany Bay In Australia.
Boucle
1.a Fancy Yarn With An Irregular Pattern Of Curls And Loops 2. A Fabric Made Fro
m Boucle Yarn.
Bourdalou
Hat-ribbon, Finer Than Grosgrain, Round The Foot Of The Crown Of Hats. This Trim
ming Is Sometimes Finished Off With A Buckle And Has Been In Use Since The 17th
Century.
Bourdon Lace
A Machine Made Lace On A Mesh Ground Usually In A Scroll Design Outlined With A
Heavy Cord.
Bourette
A Fancy Plied Yarn With Nubs And Knots Of Another Color.
Bourette
See Noil
Bourrelet
A Double Knit Fabric With A Rippled , Corded Texture Running Horizontally.
Bow-string Hemp
See Sansevieria
Brandenburg Coat
Fourth Quarter Of 17th Century, A Loose Overcoat With Turned-back Cuffs. The Sle
eves Are Made In One With The Rest Of The Garment.
Breaking (bast Fibres)
The Deformation Of The Plant Structure By Flattening The Stem, Loosening The Bon
d Between The Fibre Bundles And The Wood, And Breaking The Woody Part Into Short
Pieces, To Facilitate Their Removal From The Fibre By Scutching. Breaking By Me
ans Of Rollers Is Often Referred To As Rolling.
Breaking Elongation; Breaking Extension
The Elongation, Or Extension, Of A Substance At Its Breaking Load.
Breaking Length
The Length Of A Specimen Whose Weight Is Equal To The Breaking Load.
Breaking Load; Breaking Force
The Load That Develops The Breaking Tension. The Recommended Unit Of Measurement
Is The Newton.
Breaking Stress
The Maximum Stress Developed In A Specimen Stretched To Rupture. The Force Is Us
ually Related To The Area Of The Unstrained Specimen. If The Actual Stress, Defi
ned In Terms Of The Area Of The Strained Specimen, Is Used, Then Its Maximum Val
ue Is Called The Actual Breaking Stress.
Breaking Tension
The Maximum Tension Developed In A Specimen Stretched To Rupture. It Is Correctl
y Expressed In Newton's.
Breathable Coated
Refers To A Coating That Repels Water But Allows Water Vapor (thus Perspiration)
To Pass Through, Allowing Garments To Be Comfortable And Waterproof . Used In G
arments For Active Wear And Winter Sports.
Breton Lace
Lace Embroidered On An Open Net With Heavy Often Brightly Colored Yarn. May Be M
ade By Hand Or Machine. Said To Have Originated In The Breton Region Of France.
Bright
Descriptive Of Textile Materials, Particularly Man-made Fibres, The Natural Lust
re Of Which Has Not Been Substantially Reduced. Bright May Denote The Presence O
f A Very Small Amount Of Delustrant, Insufficient To Reduce The Lustre Of The Fi
bre Significantly.
Brightening Agent
See Optical Brightner
Brin
A Single Filament Of Silk Resulting From The Degumming Of The Bave Withdrawn Fro
m The Cocoon.
Broadcloth
A Fine Tightly Woven Plain Weave Fabric With A Faint Rib . Usually Of Cotton Or
Cotton Blend But Can Be Of Any Fiber. Frequently Used In Men's Shirts. 2. A Fine
Soft Woven Wool Fabric, Plain Or Twill Weave, With A Smooth Napped Face.
Brocade
A Heavy Rich- Looking Jacquard Fabric With Contrasting Surfaces Or A Multicolor
Design . Used In Upholstery , Draperies Evening Wear.
Brocatelle
A Jacquard Fabric Similar To Brocade With The Design In A Raised Appearance From
Being Formed With A Satin Or Twill Weave. Used In Draperies And Upholstery.
Broken Twill
A General Term For Twill Weave Fabrics In Which The Twill Line Changes Direction
.
Brushed/napped
A Finishing Process To Raise A Nap On Surface Of The Fabric Using Wire Brushes O
r Other Abrasive Materials.
Brushstroke
Refers To A Print Style In Which Color Looks As If It Had Been Applied With A Br
ush.
Brussels Lace
May Be A Bobbin Or Needlepoint Lace Usually On A Machine Made Ground. Sometimes
Designs Are Appliqu?d On The Ground. As Brussels Belgium Is Important In The His
tory Of Lace-making, Many Different Types Of Lace Are Called Brussels Lace.
Buckram
A Stiff , Open Weave, Coarse Fabric Often Used As An Interlining To Give A Garme
nt Shape. Also Used In Hats, Bookbinding.
Buckskin
A Heavy Satin Weave Fabric, Often Of Fine Merino Wool, With A Smooth Face
Buffalo Check
A Bold Check Pattern With Blocks Of 2 Or 3 Contrasting Colors. Often Red And Bla
ck In A Twill Weave.
Bulked Yarn
A Yarn That Has Been Treated Mechanically, Physically Or Chemically So As To Hav
e A Noticeably Greater Voluminosity Or Bulk.
Bunch (flax)
The Aggregate Of Pieces, Which Are Tied Up With Two Or More Ties Preparatory To
Baling.
Bunting
A Plain, Drapey, Loosely Woven Fabric Most Often Used For Flags And Decoration.
Also Called Banner Cloth.
Burl
A Wool Trade Term For An Imperfection.
Burlap/hessian
A Coarse Open Fabric Made Of Jute Used For Upholstery Lining And Bagging . When
Dyed Or Printed It Is Used In Drapery, Wall Coverings, Upholstery.
Burn Out
A Fabric Made Of 2 Fibers Then Printed With A Chemical That Dissolves One Of The
Fibers Thus Creating A Design .often Done On Velvet.
Burry Wool
Wool Contaminated With Vegetable Impurities Adhering To The Fleece.
Buta
Literally, "a Plant". A Floral Motif, Derived Generally From Persian Sources, Mu
ch Used In Indian Textile Design, And Traditionally Rendered As A Flowering Plan
t With A Curling Bud At The Top. The Motif Is Also Sometimes Reduced To A Floral
Pattern Designed Within The Form Of The Plant.
Butcher's Linen
A Strong, Heavy, Plain Weave Linen Fabric With Uneven, Thick And Thin Yarns In B
oth Warp And Weft - Often Used In Tablecloths And Aprons.
Buti
A Diminutive Of Buta (q.v.), Very Commonly Used In Indian Textile Design.
Butt
To Level The Root Ends Of Flax Straw At Any Stage Of Processing By Vibrating It
Upright On A Flat Surface, Either By Hand Or Mechanically.
Butter Muslin
See Muslin
Cable Stitch
A Knit Fabric Stitch That Produces A Design That Looks Like A Heavy Cord- Common
In Sweaters And Hosiery.
Cabled Yarn
Two Or More Folded Yarns Twisted Together In One Or More Operations., Note 1: Co
mbinations Of Folded Yarn(s) And Single Yarn(s) May Be Described As Cabled Yarns
, E.g., A Single Yarn Twisted Together With Two Folded Yarns To Give Softness To
The Resulting Yarn., Note 2: In The Tyre-yarn And Tyre-cord Sections Of The Ind
ustry, Cabled Yarns Are Termed Cabled Cords Or Cords.
Cake
The Package, Roughly Cylindrical In Shape, Of Continuous-filament Yarn Produced
In The Viscose Spinning Industry By Means Of A Topham Box.
Calache Or Calash
A Protective Folding Hood Worn To Protect High Headresses C. 1770s-1830s And Mad
e Like A Sunbonnet.
Calendered
A Flat, Smooth, Glossy Finish Applied To The Fabric By Passing It Through Heavy
Rollers Under Pressure And Usually Heat. Cire, Chintz, Moire, & Glazing Are Exam
ples Of Calendered Finishes.
Calendering
The Process Of Passing Fabric Through A Calendar In Which A Highly Polished, Usu
ally Heated, Steel Bowl Rotates At A Higher Surface Speed Than The Softer (for E
xample, Cotton- Or Paper-filled) Bowl Against Which It Works, Thus Producing A G
laze On The Face Of The Fabric That Is In Contact With The Steel Bowl. The Frict
ion Ratio Is The Ratio Of The Peripheral Speed Of The Faster Steel Bowl To That
Of The Slower Bowl And Is Normally In The Range 1.5 To 3.0.
Calico
A Light Weight, Plain Weave Fabric Usually Cotton Or Cotton Blend Typically Prin
ted With Small, All Over, Brightly Colored Designs. Used Frequently In Aprons, Q
uilts & Curtains.
Cambric
A Plain Weave, Traditionally Light Weight Cotton Fabric With A Luster On The Sur
face .Used For Handkerchiefs Underwear, Shirts, Aprons , Tablecloths.
Camel Hair
The Hair Of The Camel ( Camelus Bactrianus ) Or Dromedary. It Comprises The Stro
ng, Coarse, Outer Hair And The Undercoat.
Candlewick
A Tufted Pile Fabric With A Fuzzy Surface That Looks Like Chenille . It Is Made
By Looping A Heavy Plied Yarn On A Muslin Base Then Cutting The Loops. Used For
Bedspreads, Robes, Draperies.
Canons, Also Cannons
17th Century, Full, Wide Ruffles/flounces Attached At The Bottom Of Breeches, Es
pecially Petticoat Breeches. It Was A Sort Of Half-stocking, At First Long And N
arrow, Then Wider And Decorated With Flounces And Lace.
Canton Flannel
A Heavy, Warm, Strong Cotton Or Cotton Blend Fabric With A Twill Face And A Brus
hed Back . Used For Nightwear, Underwear, Gloves, Linings. Originally Produced I
n Canton China.
Canvas /duck
A Strong, Firm, Tightly Woven, Durable Fabric Usually Of Cotton But Sometimes Of
Linen, Hemp Or Other Fibers. It Is Usually Plain Weave But Sometimes With A Cro
sswise Rib. It Is Produced In A Variety Of Weights & Used In A Variety Of Produc
ts Such As Tents, Awnings, Sails, Upholstery, Footwear, Jackets, Trousers.
Cape Net
A Stiff Heavy Net Which Can Be Shaped When Wet And Holds That Shape When Dried .
Used For Hats.
|Capotain Or Copotain
A High Conical, High Crowned And Small-brimmed Cap Fashionable In The 16th Centu
ry. In The Mid-17th Century Worn By Supporters Of The Puritan Fraction In Englan
d.
Carbon (fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Containing At Least 98% Of Carbon Obtained By Con
trolled Pyrolosis Of Appropriate Fibres.
Carbonized Rag Fibre
Animal Fibre Recovered By Either The Wet Or The Dry Carbonizing Process.
Carbonizing
A Chemical Process For Eliminating Cellulosic Matter From Admixture With Animal
Fibres By Degrading The Cellulosic Material To An Easily Friable Condition. The
Process Involves Treatment With An Acid, As By The Use Of Hydrochloric Acid Gas
(dry Process) Or Sulphuric Acid Solution (wet Process), Followed By Heating.
Carded
A Yarn In Which The Fibers Have Been Partially Straightened And Cleaned Prior To
Spinning. The Yarn Is Generally Coarser And More Uneven Than A Combed Yarn.
Cardigan -full
A Variation Of A 1x1 Rib Stitch With 2 Sets Of Needles There Is Alternate Knitti
ng And Tucking On One Course Then Tucking And Knitting On The Next Course. The F
abric Has The Same Look On Both Sides As Every Wale On Both Sides Has Both A Hel
d Loop And A Tuck Loop. Also Called Polka Rib.
Cardigan- Half
A Variation Of A 1x1 Rib Stitch With Knitting & Tucking In Alternate Courses On
One Set Of Needles. The Construction On The Back Is The Reverse Of The Face . Al
so Called Royal Rib.
Carrier (coloration)
A Type Of Accelerant, Particularly Used In The Dyeing And Printing Of Hydrophobi
c Fibres With Disperse Dyes.
Carrier (fibre)
A Fibre That Is Blended With The Main Constituent Fibre To Improve Processing Be
havior.
Carrotting
The Modification Of The Tips Of Fur Fibre (rabbit Fur) By Chemical Treatment To
Improve Their Felting Capacity. Reagents Generally Used Are Mercury In Nitric Ac
id And Mixtures Of Oxidizing And Hydrolysing Agents.
Casein
The Principal Protein In Milk. It Serves As The Raw Material For Some Regenerate
d Protein Fibres.
Casement Cloth
A General Term For Sheer, Lightweight, Open Weave Fabrics Used For Curtains And
Backing For Heavy Drapery.
Cashmere
Originally Hair From The Downy Undercoat Of The Asiatic Goat (capra Hircus Lanig
er). Currently Similar Hair From Animals Bred Selectively From The Feral Goat Po
pulation Of Australia, New Zealand And Scotland, Is Also Being Regarded As Cashm
ere Provided The Fibre Diameter Is Similar.
Cassock, Also Casaque
Three-quarter Length Coat Cut With Wide, Full Sleeves And Wide Throughout The Bo
dy, Ending At Thigh-height Or Below. An Unbelted Overcoat, Open-sided And Almost
Always Covered With Braid And Woven Ornament. It Was Worn From The Middle Of Th
e 16th Century, Mainly For Hunting And Riding.
Cationic
A Type Of Dye Used On Acrylic Or On Modified Polyester Or Modified Nylon Yarn .
Often Used To Achieve Cross Dyed Effects Cationic Dyeable Yarn Is Woven In A Pat
tern With Regular Yarn In The Same Fabric. The Pattern Becomes Visible By Dyeing
The Fabric In 2 Baths, One For Each Of The Types Of Yarn.
Cationic Dye
A Dye That Dissociates In Aqueous Solution To Give A Positively Charged Coloured
Ion.
Causticizing
Brief Treatment Of Cellulosic Fabrics With Caustic Soda Solution At Room Tempera
ture Without Tension To Improve The Colour Yield In Printing And Dyeing, Particu
larly With Reactive Dyes.
Cavalier-style
The Flamboyant Men's Fashion Of The First Half Of The 17th Century. The Supporte
rs Of The English King Charles I Were Called Cavaliers, In Contrast To The Plain
Dressed Puritans.
Cavalry Twill
A Sturdy Woven Fabric With A Steep Pronounced Double Twill Line . Often Of Cotto
n Or Wool But May Be Any Fiber.

Cavings (flax) (obsolescent)
The Reject From The Bottom Ridge Of A Roughing-out Machine Consisting Mostly Of
Rough Bits Of Broken Straw And Some Root Ends.
Cellulose Diacetate
Theoretically, An Ester Of Cellulose And Ethanoic Acid Containing 48.8% Of Combi
ned Ethanoic Acid (acetic Acid). This, However, Is Not A Commercial Product. The
Same Term Is Sometimes Used Loosely To Describe Propanone-soluble (acetone-solu
ble) Cellulose Acetate.
Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate)
An Ester Formed From Cellulose And Ethanoic Acid (acetic Acid) Used To Make Acet
ate Fibres. , Note: Purified Cellulose Is Ethanoylated (acetylated) By Ethanoic
Anhydride (acetic Anhydride) In The Presence Of A Catalyst (such As Sulphuric Ac
id Or Perchloric Acid) In A Solvent Such As Dichloromethane (methylene Chloride)
Or Ethanoic Acid. The Reaction Proceeds Until Primary Cellulose Acetate Contain
ing 60% Of Combined Ethanoic Acid Is Formed. Secondary Cellulose Acetate Is Form
ed From The Primary Acetate By Partial Hydrolysis. It Is Obtained By Adding Wate
r In Excess Of That Required To React With The Residual Ethanoic Anhydride, Whic
h Thus Allows The Hydrolysis To Take Place.
Cellulose Triacetate
Theoretically, A Cellulose Acetate Containing 62.5% Of Combined Ethanoic Acid (a
cetic Acid) But The Term Is Generally Used For Primary Cellulose Ethanoate (acet
ate) Containing More Than 60% Of Combined Ethanoic Acid.
Cellulose Xanthate
A Series Of Compounds Formed Between Carbon Disulphide And Cellulose In The Pres
ence Of Strong Alkali.
Cendal
Silk Material Resembling Taffeta. It Was Made In Various Qualities, Sometimes Ev
en Mentioned As A Luxury Fabric, Sometimes Only As Cheap Lining Material. Widely
Used During The Middle Ages, But In The 17th Century It Was Only Used For Linin
g.
Centre Front
It Is The Portion Of The Pattern Or The Garment Which Is Suppose To Come In The
Exact Front.
Centrifugal Spinning
A Method Of Man-made Fibre Production In Which The Molten Or Dissolved Polymer I
s Thrown Centrifugally In Fibre Form From The Edge Of A Surface Rotating At High
Speed., The Term Is Also Used To Describe A Method Of Yarn Formation Involving
A Rotating Cylindrical Container, In Which, The Yarn Passes Down A Central Guide
Tube And Is Then Carried By Centrifugal Force To The Inside Of A Rotating Cylin
drical Container.
Chaconne
Type Of Cravat Made Of A Ribbon Dangling From The Shirt Collar To The Chest. It
Takes Its Name From The Dancer P?court Who Danced A Chaconne In 1692 With His Cr
avat Tied In This Way.
Chaff
A Component Of Trash In Cotton In The Form Of A Heterogeneous Assortment Of Vege
table Fragments, Most Of Them Being Small Pieces Of Leaf And Stalk.
Challis
A Soft, Lightweight, Plain Weave Fabric With Good Drape. Often Used For Printed
Dresses And Skirts. Most Commonly Wool Or Rayon But May Be Of Cotton Or Other Sp
un Fibers.
Chambray
A Lightweight, Plain Weave Fabric, With A Colored Warp And White Weft . Usually
Plain But May Be In Stripes, Checks, Or Other Patterns. Often Used In Shirts, Dr
esses Children's Clothes.
Chameleon
A 3 Tone Effect That Changes With The Angle Of View . It Is Achieved By Using A
Warp Yarn Of One Color And Double Weft Yarns Of 2 Different Colors. It Is Often
Found In Taffetas , Poplins Or Failles Of Silk Or Made Made Filament Yarns
Chamois-like
A Hand Suggesting The Soft Pliable Leather From The Skin Of The Chamois Goat.
Chand-tara
Literally, "moon And Star", A Pattern Often-used In Indian Textile.
Chantilly Lace
A Bobbin Lace On A Fine Net Ground Characterized By Delicate Motifs Of Scrolls,
Vines, Branches, And Flowers Outlined By A Flat (cordonnet) Yarn. Often In Black
. Originally Made In Chantilly France.
Charged System
A Method Of Dry Cleaning In Which An Oil-soluble Reagent Such As Petroleum Sulph
onate Is Added To The Solvent So That A Significant Amount Of Water Can Be Added
To Obtain A Substantially Clear Dispersion Of Water In The Solvent. In A High-c
harged System The Concentration Of Added Reagent, A So-called Detergent Is 4% Wh
ile, In A Low-charged System The Concentration Ranges From ?% To 2%.

Charmeuse
A Soft Lightweight Woven Satin Fabric With Good Drape. It Is Made With High Twis
t Yarns, Has A Semi-lustrous Face And A Dull Back . Often Used For Blouses, Inti
mate Apparel.
Chaubandi Chola
A Short Tunic Or Shirt Fastened With Tie-cords Worn By Children.
Chaugoshia (topi)
A Four-cornered Cap.
Chauri
A Flywhisk Made Generally From A Yak's Tail. Important As A Symbol Of Royalty Or
Divinity.
Chausses En Bourses
Early 17th Century Breeches Made In Bands And Padded So They Swelled Out At The
Bottom, Ending In A Flattened Balloon Shape.
Check
A Small Pattern Of Squares Or Rectangles. It May Be Printed, Yarn Dyed , Cross D
yed Or Woven Into The Fabric ( As A Dobby Or Jacquard).
Cheese Cloth
See Muslin/See Gauze.
Chemic; Chemick
Calcium Or Sodium Hypochlorite.
Chemicking
Bleaching Non-protein Fibre Material By Means Of A Dilute Hypochlorite Solution.
Chemise
A Light Undergarment Made From Linen, For Both Sexes.
Chenille
1. A Yarn With Fuzzy Pile Protruding From All Sides . It Has A Velvety Caterpill
ar -like Appearance . ( The Term Chenille Is Derived From The French Word For Ca
terpillar) 2. A Fabric Made With Chenille Yarn.
Cheviot
1.A Rough Surfaced Fabric Of Wool With A Heavy Nap. Used For Coating. 2. A Loose
ly Woven Tweed Fabric With A Shaggy Texture . Cheviot Was Originally Made From T
he Wool Of The Cheviot Sheep In The Hills At The Bordering England And Scotland.
Chevron
A Design Which Incorporates Herringbone Elements Of Zigzag Stripes Or Joined V's
Chiffon
A Lightweight , Sheer, Plain Weave Fabric With A Dull Surface, A Soft Hand , And
Good Drape. It Is Made With Fine High Twisted Yarns And Has An Even Or Close To
Even Number Of Threads Per Inch In The Warp And Weft. Originally Made In Silk B
ut Now Found In Polyester And Other Man-made Filament Yarns. Used In Dresses Blo
uses, Scarves, Veils.
Chikan Kari
Embroidery In White Cotton Thread Upon Fine White Cotton Fabric, Like, Muslin. S
everal Techniques In Chikan-kar Are Known; Lucknow Was A Famous Center Of Fine W
orkmanship.
|Children's
Refers To Designs Suitable For The Children's Market.
Child's Pudding
Small Round Hats For Children Made Of Cloth Or Straw, Forming A Shock-absorber T
o Protect Them If They Fell.
China Grass
See Ramie.
Chinchilla
A Thick, Heavy, Pile Fabric With Surface Curls Or Nubs, Originally Made To Sugge
st Chinchilla Fur . It Is Often Double Faced. It May Be Woven Or Knit And Is Oft
en Used As Coating.
Chino
A Sturdy, Medium Weight, Twill Fabric Usually Of Cotton Or A Cotton Blend. It Ha
s Often Been Used For Summer Weight Military Uniforms, Sportswear And Work Cloth
es. It Is Often Found In Khaki And Tan Colors.
Chinoiserie
A Old Chinese Decorative Style Still Used In Textiles.
Chintz
1. A Glazed Solid Or Printed Fabric Usually Of Cotton Or A Cotton Blend 2. A Pla
in Weave Fabric, Usually Cotton, With A Multicolor Print Which May Or May Not Be
Glazed. If It Is Unglazed It Is Called Cretonne.
Chirimen
A Japanese Term Describing A Dull Crepe Fabric Made With A Course Yarn. Original
ly Of Silk But Now Found In Man Made Filaments Such As Polyester.
Chite
Painted Linen, Originally From Chitta (india) Which Started The Fashion For Pain
ted Linens In The 17th And 18th Centuries.
Chlorination
When Used With Reference To Textile Processing, A Term Indicating The Reaction O
f A Fibre With Chlorine. The Chlorine May Be In The Form Of A Gas, Or Its Soluti
on In Water Or It May Be Obtained From A Suitable Compound.
Chlorofibre (fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Havin
g In The Chain More Than 50% (by Mass) Of Chloroethene (vinyl Chloride) Or 1,1-d
ichloroethene (vinylidene Chloride) Groups. If The Rest Of The Chain Is Made Up
Of Cyanoethene (acylonitrile) Groups Then The Chloroethene Content Must Be Great
er Than 65%, Thus Excluding Modacrylic Fibres From This Definition.
Chogaichoga
A Loose, Sleeved Coat-like Garment Worn Over An Inner Garment Like The Angarakha
(q.v.), Generally Sumptuous And Appropriate For Ceremonial Occasions. Of Turkis
h Origin, The Chogha Was Also Known As A Chugha, Chuha Orjuha; In Russia As Shub
a Or Sbubka.
Choli
A Short, Bodice-like Breast Garment Of Wide Popularity Among Women In India, Fro
m Early Times. Related To The Classic Cholaka Mentioned In Sanskrit Literature.
The Garment Is Worn In Many Styles; Thus, With Back Covering Or Without, Fastene
d With Strings Or Extended Cloth-pieces, With Shaped Breast-pieces Or Flat, Etc.
Cholu
A Loose, Shirt-like Garment.
Chrome Dye
A Mordant Dye Capable Of Forming A Chelate Complex With A Chromium Atom.
Chrome Mordant Process
A Method Of Dyeing Whereby The Fibre Is Mordanted With A Solution Of A Chromium
Compound And Subsequently Dyed With A Suitable Chrome Dye.
Chromophore
That Part Of The Molecular Structure Of An Organic Dye Or Pigment Responsible Fo
r Colour.
Chrysalis
The Form Taken By A Silkworm In The Dormant Stage Of Development Between Larva A
nd Moth. It Is Dark Brown And Fragments Of It Can Often Be Detected In Silk Wast
e, Especially Noils.
Churidar
With Bangle-like Gathers Or Wrinkles, As In A Churidar Payan.
Circular Knit
Refers To Fabrics Knit On A Circular Knitting Machine, I.e. One Which Has Its Ne
edles Arranged In A Circle Thus Producing The Fabric In Tubular Form . The Fabri
cs May Be Sold Tubular Or Slit And Sold Open Width. A Circular Knitting Machine
May Be Used To Produce Full Width Fabrics Or Narrow Shaped Components Such As Fo
r Hosiery.
Cire
A Finishing Process That Produces A High Gloss On The Surface On The Fabric By P
assing It Through Heavy Rollers (calendering) . Fabrics Made Of Thermoplastic Fi
bers Like Nylon Or Polyester Are Cired By Calendering With Heat And Pressure Alo
ne. Other Fabrics Like Rayons Or Silks Are Calendered With Wax Or Other Compound
s.
Classing
A Process By Which Whole Fleeces Are Separated Into Different Classes Before Bei
ng Baled And Sold.
Clear
In Synthetic Fibres The Term Clear Is Commonly Used To Denote The Absence Of Del
ustrant.
Clip (wool)
One Season's Yield Of Wool.
Clip Dot /clip Spot
A Design Effect Created On A Woven Fabric By The Use Of Extra Yarns Which Are Wo
ven Into The Fabric At A Certain Spot Then Allowed To Float Over The Fabric To T
he Next Spot. The Float Threads Are Later Trimmed But Often Are Allowed To Protr
ude From The Surface Of The Fabric As Part Of The Design.
Cloque/ Blister Fabric
A General Term To Describe Fabrics With A Blister (pucker) On The Surface. The B
lister May Be Created By Several Different Methods Such As Printing With Caustic
Soda Or Other Chemicals, By Weaving Together Yarns Under Different Tension, Or
By Weaving Together Yarns With Different Shrinkage Properties.
Cloth
A Generic Term Embracing Most Textile Fabrics. The Term Was Originally Applied T
o Wool Fabric Suitable For Clothing.
Clothing Wool
Wools Of Short Fibre, Not Suitable For Combing, And Used In The Manufacture Of W
oollens.
Cluny Lace
A Heavy Bobbin Lace Using Thick Yarns Usually Of Cotton Or Linen. Most Often Don
e In Geometric Patterns . Used For Curtains Doilies And Trim For Apparel.
Coarse
Having Thick Yarns.
Coarse
See Alpaca Fibre
Coated
Refers To The Application Of Material Such As Plastic Resin, Wax, Oil, Varnish O
r Lacquer To The Surface Of The Fabric . Application Methods Include Dipping, Sp
raying, Brushing, Calendering Or Knife Coating . Coating Is Often Applied To Mak
e A Fabric Water Repellent Or Waterproof But May Be Done Simply To Alter The Han
d Or Appearance Of The Fabric. Polyurethane, Acrylic And Pvc Resins Are Common T
ypes Of Coating.
Cockade
A Ribbon Bow Deriving From The Tie Attaching The Brim Of A Cocked Hat. Originall
y Decorative, It Was Also Used As Political Identification; Thus The White Cocka
de Was Worn By The Jacobites, And The Tricoleur By The French Republicans.
Cocked Hat
A Hat Which Is Styled With The Brim Turned Up. Particularly Applied To Styles Of
The 17th And 18th Century.
Cocoon (silk)
An Egg-shaped Casing Of Silk Spun By The Silkworm To Protect Itself As A Chrysal
is.
Cocoon Strippings
The First Threads Secreted By The Silkworm When It Finds A Place To Form Its Coc
oon.
Coif
Medieval To 17th Century Term For Close-fitting Head Covering. Worn In The Later
Period Exclusively By Women.
Coiffure En Bouffons
Women's Hairstyle From The End Of The Reign Of Louis Xiii, Tufts Of Crimped Hair
Over The Temples, While The Forehead Was Covered By A Fringe Known As A Garcett
e.
Coir
A Reddish-brown-to-buff Coloured Coarse Fibre Obtained From The Fruit Of The Pal
m Cocos Nucifera L.
Cold Drawing (Synthetic Filaments And Films)
The Drawing Of Synthetic Filaments Or Films Without The Intentional Application
Of External Heat., Note: Free Drawing Of Filaments Or Films At A Neck Is Also Re
ferred To As Cold Drawing Even Though This May Be Carried Out In A Heated Enviro
nment., Colour, (1) Sensation. That Characteristic Of The Visual Sensation Which
Enables The Eye To Distinguish Differences In Its Quality, Such As May Be Cause
d By Differences In The Spectral Distribution Of The Light Rather Than By Differ
ences In The Spatial Distribution Or Fluctuations With Time.(2) Of An Object. Th
e Particular Visual Sensation (as Defined Above) Caused By The Light Emitted By,
Transmitted Through, Or Reflected From The Object., Note: The Colour Of A Non-s
elf luminous Object Is Dependent On The Spectral Composition Of The Incident Lig
ht, The Spectral Reflectance Or Transmittance Of The Object And The Spectral Res
ponse Of The Observer. Colour Can Be Described Approximately In Terms Of Hue, Sa
turation And Lightness, Or Specified Numerically By Chromaticity Co-ordinates E.
g., Those Defined By The C.i.e. Standard Observer Data (1964). Alternatively, Co
lour Can Be Specified By Reference To Visual Standards, E.g., The Munsell Colour
Atlas.
Colour Constancy
The Ability Of A Coloured Object To Give The Same General Colour Impression When
Viewed Under Different Illuminants, The Observer Having Been Chromatically Adap
ted In Each Case.note: The Most Common Comparison Is Made Between The Impression
Under Artificial Light, E.g., Tungsten Filament, And That Under Daylight.
Colour Quality
A Specification Of Colour In Terms Of Both Hue And Saturation, But Not Luminance
.
Colour Value; Tinctorial Value
The Colour Yield Of A Colorant, Compared With A Standard Of Equal Cost. Note: It
Is Usually Determined By Comparing The Cost Of Coloration At Equal Visual Stren
gth. Comparisons Are Normally Made Between Products Of Similar Hue And Propertie
s.
Colour Yield; Tinctorial Yield
The Depth Of Colour Obtained When A Standard Weight Of Colorant Is Applied To A
Substrate Under Specified Conditions.
Combed
Refers To A Process In The Manufacture Of Cotton And Other Staple Yarns. The Fib
er Is Combed To Remove Foreign Matter And The Shorter, Undesirable Fibers, Leavi
ng Longer, More Desirable Fibers That Become Straightened & Aligned In Parallel
Before Spinning Into Yarn. Combed Yarns Are Finer, Cleaner And More Even Than Th
ose That Are Not Combed.
Combed Yarn.
Yarn Produced From Fibres That Have Been Carded (or Prepared) And Combed.
Combination Yarn
A Yarn In Which There Are Dissimilar Component Yarns Especially When These Are O
f Fibre And Filaments.
Combing
The Straightening And Parallelizing Of Fibres And The Removal Of Short Fibres An
d Impurities By Using A Comb Or Combs Assisted By Brushes And Rollers.
Commode
A Wire Frame On Which The Late 17th Century High Ladies' Headdress, The Fontange
, Was Adjusted.
Compact
Refers To A Tight, Dense Fabric With A Firm Hand.
Composite
A Solid Product Consisting Of Two Or More Discrete Physical Phases, Including A
Binding Material (matrix) And A Fibrous Material.
Composite Yarn
A Yarn Composed Of Both Staple And Continuous-filament Components, E.g., Core Sp
un Or Wrap Spun.
Compressive Shrinkage
A Process In Which Fabric Is Caused To Shrink In Length E.g., By Compression. Th
e Process Is Often Referred To As Ccs (controlled Compressive Shrinkage).
Conch Or Conque
Sort Of Large Shell-shaped Hat In Gauze Or Light Crepe, Mounted On A Wire Framew
ork, Which Was In France Mostly Worn My Widows In The Late 16th And Early 17th C
enturies. At The Same Time A Similar Veil, But Generally Much Bigger And Made Of
Pale Gauze, Seems To Have Been High Fashion In England.
Condensation Polymerization
See Polymerization, Condensation
Condense Dye
A Dye Which, During Or After Application, Reacts Covalently With Itself Or Other
Compounds, Other Than The Substrate, To Form A Molecule Of Greatly Increased Si
ze.
Condenser (Ring-doffer Or Tape)
The Last Section Of A Condenser Card: It Divides A Broad Thin Web Of Fibres Into
Narrow Strips, Which Then Consolidated By Rubbing Into Slubbings.
Condenser Card
A Roller-and-clearer Type Of Card, As Distinct From A Flat Card, Which Converts
Fibrous Raw Materials Slubbings, By Means Of A Condenser.
Condenser Spun
Descriptive Of Yarn Spun From Slubbing.
Condition
(1) The Moisture Present In Textile Fibres In Their Raw Or Partly Or Wholly Manu
factured Form., (2) To Allow Textile Materials (raw Materials, Slivers, Yarns, A
nd Fabrics) To Come To Hygroscopic Equilibrium With The Surrounding Atmosphere O
r With The Standard Atmosphere For Testing., (3) To Add Relatively Small Quantit
ies Of Water To Textile Materials (raw Materials, Slivers, Yarns And Fabrics).,
Note: The Object Of Conditioning Is To Prepare For Testing, Or To Bring Textiles
To An Agreed Moisture Content For Sale Or To Facilitate Later Processing. Among
Methods Used For Applying Water Are: (a) Mechanical Means During Gilling Or Win
ding, (b) The Use Of Conditioning Machines, And Storing In An Atmosphere Of Very
High Relative Humidity.
Conditioner Tube
A Tube Supplied With Steam Or Hot Air Surrounding A Melt-spun Thread-line And Lo
cated Between Extrusion And Wind-up, Whose Purpose Is To Control The Fine Struct
ure Of The Yarn., Cone, (1) A Conical Support On Which Yarn Is Wound., (2) A Con
ical Package Of Yarn Wound On A Conical Support.
Contemporary
Currently In Vogue
Continuous Yarn Felting
A Process Whereby Slivers, Rovings, Slubbings, Or Yarns Are Felted On A Continuo
us Basis. This Is Achieved By Passing Wool-rich Material Through A Unit Where It
Is Agitated An Aqueous Medium Where Felting Takes Place. The Process Is Used To
Produce A Yarn, Or Consolidate A Spun Yarn.
Continuous-filament Yarn; Filament Yarn
A Yarn Composed Of One Or More Filaments That Run Essentially The Whole Length O
f The Yarn. Yarns Of One Or More Filaments Are Usually Referred To As Monofilame
nt Or Multifilament Respectively.
Conventional Allowance
The Percentage That, In The Calculation Of Commercial Weight And Yarn Count Or L
inear Density, Is Added To The Oven-dry Weight Of The Textile Material, Which Ha
s Been Previously Washed Free Of Finish. For Such Material, The Conventional All
owance Is Arbitrarily Chosen According To Commercial Practice, And Includes The
Moisture Regain And The Normal Finish That Is Added To Impart Satisfactory Texti
le Qualities.
Conversational
Whimsical Designs Or Designs With A Theme.
Converter; Merchant Converter
An Individual Who Or An Organization Which Locates A Supplier And Purchases Grey
Fabric, Procures Its Finishing And Then Re-sells The Finished Fabric To Custome
rs.
Converting; Conversion (tow)
The Production, From A Filament Tow Or Tows, Of A Staple Sliver In Such A Way Th
at The Essential Parallel Arrangement Of The Filaments Is Maintained. Note: The
Two Methods Of Converting Most Commonly Employed Are:, (a) Crush Cutting, In Whi
ch The Filaments Of The Tow Are Severed By Crushing Between An Anvil Roller And
A Cutting Roller With Raised 'blades' Helically Disposed Around Its Surface, And
, (b) Stretch Breaking, In Which The Filaments Of The Tow Are Broken By Progres
sive Stretch Between Successive Sets Of Rollers., If Subsequently A Top Is Requi
red, Further Processes Of Re-breaking And/or Gilling May Be Necessary And The Wh
ole Operation Is Then Often Referred To As Tow-to-top Converting Or Conversion.
Cool
A Smooth, Slick, Hand Generally Associated With Synthetics.
Cool Colours
Blue, Violet And Green Are Cool / Light Colors. They Are Reducing In Nature, As
Seen By The Eye They Move Away From The Object Thereby Increasing It's Size. Coo
l Colors Have A Calm And Restful Effect.
Cooling Cylinder
An Open Cylinder, Or Alternatively A Closed Cylinder Filled With Cold Water, Ove
r Which Hot Fabric Is Passed To Accelerate Cooling
Coolmax Brand
A Du Pont Brand Of Polyester With Good Wicking Qualities Allowing For Better Moi
sture Evaporation . Used In Activewear.
Cop
A Form Of Yarn Package Spun On A Mule Spindle. The Term Can Also Be Used To Desc
ribe A Ring Tube.
Copolymer, Block
A Copolymer In Which The Repeating Units In The Main Chain Occur In Blocks, E.g.
,-(a)m-(b)n-(a)p-(b)q- Where A And B Represent The Repeating Units.
Copolymer, Graft
A Copolymer Formed When Sequences Of One Repeating Unit Are Built As Side Branch
es Onto A Backbone Polymer Derived From Another Repeating Unit, E.g.,
Copolymer.
A Polymer In Which The Repeating Units Are Not All The Same. Usually, But Not Al
ways, Copolymers Are Formed From Two Or More Different Starting Materials. For E
xample, Chloroethene (vinyl Chloride) And 1,1-dichloroethene (vinylidene Chlorid
e) Form A Copolymer That Contains The Repeating Units: -ch2-chcl- And -ch2-ccl2-
, The Different Classes Of Copolymer Include Random Copolymers, Alternating Copo
lymers, Block Copolymers, And Graft Copolymers.
Cord
A Term Applied Loosely To A Variety Of Textile Strands Including (a) Cabled Yarn
s (b) Plied Yarns And (c) In Structures Made By Plaiting, Braiding Or Knitting.
Corded
1. A Fabric With A Surface Rib Effect Resulting From The Use Of A Heavier Or Pli
ed Yarn Together With Finer Yarns. 2. A Yarn Made From Two Or More Finer Yarns T
wisted Together.
Cordon Yarn
A Two-ply Union Yarn Made From A Single Cotton Yarn And A Single Worsted Or Wool
len Yarn.
Cordura Brand
A Du Pont Brand Of Air Textured Nylon Yarn. Used In Luggage And Outerwear.
Corduroy
A Strong, Durable, Woven Fabric Characterized By Vertical Cut Pile Stripes Or Co
rds With A Velvet- Like Nap. Corduroy Is Classified By The Number Of Wales Or Co
rds To The Inch. It Is Traditionally Of Cotton But May Be Cotton Blends Or Other
Fibers As Well. It Is Common In Men's Women's And Children's Apparel Especially
Trousers.
Core Sampling
A Method Of Taking Representative Samples From Bales Or Packs Of Textile Fibres
Obtained By Inserting A Coring Tube Driven By Hand Or Machine Into Each Package.
, Note 1: Core Samples Can Be Used For The Determination Of Yield Or Fineness, B
ut Not Fibre Length., Note 2: The Term Mini-core Sampling Is Applied To Small-sc
ale Sampling.
Core-spun Yarn ; Core Yarn
Yarn Consisting Of A Central Thread Surrounded By Staple Fibres. The Yarn Has Th
e Strength And Elongation Of The Central Thread Whilst Exhibiting Most Of The Ot
her Characteristics Of The Surface Staple Fibres., Example 1: A Sewing Thread Co
nsisting Of A Central Synthetic Continuous-filament Yarn Surrounded By Cotton Fi
bres., Example 2: Worsted Yarn With Bulked-nylon Core, E.g., Typically 1/24s Wor
sted Count (37 Tex) With Approximately 33% Of Nylon. These Yarns Are Normally Pr
oduced To Give Strength And Elasticity To The Fabric., Example 3: A Spun Yarn Fr
om Either Natural Or Man-made Fibres Incorporating An Elastomeric Core, These Ya
rns Are Normally Used In Stretch Fabrics.
Cornet
The Cornet Headdress Is A Simplified Fontange. The Cap Has An Upstanding Frill I
n Front And Lappets At The Back. The Veil Is Wired To Stand Up Above The Forehea
d. A Topknot Of Wired Ribbon Is Pinned At The Front Of The Cap; Fourth Quarter O
f 17th Century.
Correct Invoice Weight
The Weight Of Material Calculated From The Oven-dry Weight And The Recommended A
llowance.
Cortex
The Inner Portion Of Most Animal Hair Fibres. It Consists Of Spindle-shaped Cell
s.
Cotton
The Seed Hair Of A Wide Variety Of Plants Of The Gossypium Family.
Cotton Dust
Dust Present During The Handling Or Processing Of Cotton That May Contain A Mixt
ure Of Substances, Including Smaller Particles Of Ground-up Plant Matter, Fibre,
Bacteria, Fungi, Soil, Pesticides, Non-cotton Plant Matter And Other Contaminan
ts Which May Have Accumulated During The Growing, Harvesting And Subsequent Proc
essing Or Storage Periods.
Cotton Waste
There Are Two Classes Of Waste Known As 'hard' And 'soft', And Their Treatment D
iffers According To The Class. Hard Waste Is Essentially That From Spinning Fram
es, Reeling And Winding Machines And All Other Waste Of A Thready Nature. Soft W
aste Comes From Earlier Processes Where The Fibres Are Relatively Little Twisted
, Felted, Or Compacted.
Cotton Wool
A Web Or Batt Of Fibres Used For Medical Or Cosmetic Purposes Which Is Made From
Cotton And/or Viscose Rayon.
Cotton-like
Refers To A Fabric That Feels Like Cotton.
Cotton-spun
A Term Applied To Staple Yarn Produced On Machinery Originally Developed For Pro
cessing Cotton Into Yarn.
Count
Methods Of Variously Expressing The Specific Length Or Length Per Unit Mass Of A
Yarn. Also Termed Linear Density; Number Of Yarn; Yarn Count; Yarn Number; Gris
t.
Counting Glass
A Small Mounted Magnifying Glass For Examining Fabric. The Base Of The Mount Gen
erally Contains A Unit Of Measurement Having An Aperture One Centimetre Square,
One Inch Square Or Cross-shaped With Various Dimensions, Convenient For Counting
Ends And Picks, Or Courses And Wales In A Fabric.
Count-strength Product (csp)
The Product Of The Lea Strength, And The Actual Count Of Cotton Yarn.
Couple
To Combine A Suitable Organic Component, Usually A Phenol Or An Arylamine, With
A Diazonium Salt To Form An Azo Compound As In The Manufacture Of Azo Colorants,
In Azoic Dyeing Or In After Treatment Of Direct Dyeing.
Course Length (weft-knitted)
The Length Of Yarn In A Knitted Course.
Course, Knitted (fabric)
A Row Of Loops Across The Width Of A Fabric.
Couvrechef
A Veil Or Covering For The Head.
Cover
(1) The Degree Of Evenness And Closeness Of Thread Spacing. Good Cover Gives The
Effect Of A Plane Surface And Cannot Be Obtained With Hard-twisted Yarns., (2)
The Degree To Which, In Fabric Finishing, The Underlying Structure Is Concealed
By The Finishing Materials Or Treatments.
Cover Factor (knitted Fabrics)
A Number That Indicates The Extent To Which The Area Of A Knitted Fabric Is Cove
red By The Yarn: An Indication Of The Relative Looseness Or Tightness Of The Kni
tting.
Cover Factor (woven Fabrics)
A Number That Indicates The Extent To Which The Area Of A Fabric Is Covered By O
ne Set Of Threads. By Introducing Suitable Numerical Constants, Its Evaluation C
an Be Made In Accordance With Any System Of Counting. For Any Fabric There Are T
wo Cover Factors: Warp Cover Factor And Weft Cover Factor.
Covered Yarn
A Yarn Made By Feeding One Yarn Under A Controlled Degree Of Tension Through The
Axis Or Axes Of One Or More Revolving Spindles Carrying The Other (wrapping) Ya
rn(s).
Coverstock
A Permeable Fabric Used In Hygiene Products To Cover And Contain An Absorbent Me
dium., Crabbing, (1) A Process Used In The Worsted Trade To Set Fabric In A Smoo
th Flat State So That It Will Not Cockle, Pucker, Or Wrinkle During Subsequent W
et Processing. The Fabric Is Treated In Open Width And Warp-way Tension In A Hot
Or Boiling Aqueous Medium, The Tension Being Maintained While The Fabric Is Coo
ling (see Setting)., (2) A Process Of Bringing A Lustrous Weft To Cover The Surf
ace Of A Fabric, E.g., A Cotton-warp/mohair-weft Fabric.
Covert
A Medium To Heavy Twill Fabric With A Contrast In Color Between The Twill Line A
nd The Ground . Usually Has A Mottled Or Flecked Appearance Caused By Using A Wa
rp Yarn With 2 Or More Colors Twisted Together. The Filling Generally Is Of A Si
ngle Color.
Crash
A Coarse Woven Fabric With A Rough Surface, Made With Thick Uneven Yarns. Used F
or Table Linens , Draperies, Backings.
Cravat
Wide Cloth Or Piece Of Lace Knotted Or Tied Around The Neck. The Term Was First
Used In The Mid-17th Century.
Cravat String
Ribbon Used In The 17th Century To Tie A Heavy Lace Cravat In Place; The Forerun
ner Of The 18th Century Solitaire.
Crease-recovery
The Measure Of Crease-resistance Specified Quantitatively In Terms Of Crease-rec
overy Angle.
Crease-resist Finish
A Finishing Process, Usually For Cellulosic-fibre Fabrics Or Their Blends, That
Improves The Crease Recovery And Smooth-drying Properties. In The Process Used M
ost Extensively, The Fabric Is Impregnated With A Solution Of A Reagent That Pen
etrates The Fibres, And, After Drying And Curing Cross-links The Fibre Structure
Under The Influence Of A Catalyst And Heat. The Crease Resistant Effect Is Dura
ble To Wash And Wear.
Crease-resistance
A Term Used To Indicate Resistance To, And/or Recovery From, Creasing Of A Texti
le Material During Use.
Creel
A Structure For Holding Supply Packages In Textile Processing., Crimp, (1) (fibr
e). The Waviness Of A Fibre. Note: This Fibre Characteristic May Be Expressed Nu
merically As The Crimp Frequency Or As The Difference Between The Lengths Of The
Straightened And Crimped Fibre, Expressed As A Percentage Of The Straightened L
ength.(2) (yarn) (UK., Take-up, Regain, Shrinkage) The Waviness Or Distortion Of
A Yarn That Is Due To Interlacing In The Fabric., Note: In Woven Fabrics, The C
rimp Is Measured By The Relation Between The Length Of The Fabric Sample And The
Corresponding Length Of Yarn When It Is Removed Therefrom And Straightened Unde
r Suitable Tension., Crimp May Be Expressed Numerically As (a) Percentage Crimp,
Which Is 100 Divided By The Fabric Length And Multiplied By The Difference Betw
een The Yarn Length And The Fabric Length, And (b) Crimp Ratio, Which Is The Rat
io Of Yarn Length To Fabric Length. In Both Methods, The Fabric Length Is The Ba
sis, That Is To Say, 100 For Percentage Crimp And 1 For Crimp Ratio. This Defini
tion Could Logically Be Applied To Knitted Fabrics Or Fabrics Of Pile Constructi
on, But It Is Preferable To Employ Special Terms, E.g., 'stitch Length', Or 'ter
ry Ratio'.
Crepe
A Fabric Characterized By An All Over Crinkled, Pebbly, Or Puckered Surface. The
Appearance May Be A Result Of The Use Of High Twist Yarns , Embossing , Chemica
l Treatment Or A Crepe Weave.
Crepe De Chine
A Lightweight Plain Weave Fabric Usually Of Silk Or Man Made Filament Yarns With
A Slight Crepe Texture Produces By Using High Twist Yarns . Used In Blouses And
Dresses.
Crepe-back Satin
A Two Faced Fabric In Which One Side Is Crepe And The Other Satin. Also Called S
atin-back Crepe.
Crepey
Refers To A Fabric With A Pebble Like Texture.
Crepon/yoryu
A Fabric With A Pleat-like Crinkle Effect In The Warp ( Lengthwise) Direction Of
The Fabric, Made With High Twist Yarns.
Cretonne
A Plain Weave Fabric, Usually Cotton, With A Neutral Ground And Brightly Colored
Floral Designs, Similar To Chintz But With A Dull Finish And Sometimes Heavier.
Used For Draperies And Upholstery.
Crewel
A Type Of Embroidery Using A Loosely Twisted 2 Ply Worsted Yarn.
Crimp Contraction
The Contraction In Length Of A Previously Textured Yarn From The Fully Extended
State (i.e., Where The Filaments Are Substantially Straightened), Owing To The F
ormation Of Crimp In Individual Filament Under Specified Conditions Of Crimp Dev
elopment. It Is Expressed As A Percentage Of The Extended Length.
Crimp Frequency
The Number Of Full Waves Or Crimps In A Length Of Fibre Divided By The Straighte
ned Length.
Crimp Retraction
See Crimp Contraction
Crimp Stability
The Ability Of A Textured Yarn To Resist The Reduction Of Its Crimp By Mechanica
l And/or Thermal Stress., Note: Crimp Stability Is Normally Expressed As The Rat
io Of Values Of Crimp Retraction Measured Before And After A Specified Mechanica
l And/or Thermal Treatment Of The Yarn.
Crimp, Latent
A Crimp That Is Potentially Present In Specially Prepared Fibres Or Filaments An
d That Can Be Developed By A Specific Treatment Such As Thermal Relaxation Or Te
nsioning And Subsequent Relaxation.
Crimped Length
The Distance Between The Ends Of A Fibre When Substantially Freed From External
Restraint, Measured With Respect To Its General Axis Of Orientation.
Crimped Yarn
A Continuous-filament Yarn That Has Been Processed To Introduce Durable Crimps,
Coils, Loops Or Other Fine Distortions Along The Lengths Of The Filaments., Note
1: The Main Texturing Procedures Which Are Usually Applied To Continuous-filame
nt Yarns Made From Or Containing Thermoplastic Fibres, Are:, (a) The Yarn Is Hig
hly Twisted, Heat-set And Untwisted Either As A Process Of Three Separate Stages
(now Obsolescent) Or As A Continuous Process (false-twist Texturing). In An Inf
requently Used Alternative Method, Two Yarns Are Continuously Folded Together, H
eat-set, Then Separated By Unfolding;, (b) The Yarn Is Injected Into A Heated St
uffer Box Either By Feed Rollers Or Through A Plasticizing Jet Of Hot Fluid (inv
ariably Air Or Steam). The Jet Process Is Sometimes Known As Jet Texturing, Hot-
air Jet Texturing, Or Steam-jet Texturing;, (c) The Yarn Is Plasticized By Passa
ge Through A Jet Of Hot Fluid And Is Impacted On To A Cooling Surface (impact Te
xturing);, (d) The Heated Yarn Is Passed Over A Knife-edge (edge Crimping), (now
Obsolete);, (e) The Heated Yarn Is Passed Between A Pair Of Gear Wheels Or Thro
ugh Some Similar Device (gear Crimping);, (f) The Yarn Is Knitted Into A Fabric
That Is Heat-set And Then Unravelled (knit-deknit Texturing);, (g) The Yarn Is O
ver-fed Through A Turbulent Air Stream (air-texturing, Air-jet Texturing), So Th
at Entangled Loops Are Formed In The Filaments;, (h) The Yarn Is Composed Of Bic
omponent Fibres And Is Subjected To A Hot And/or Wet Process Whereby Differentia
l Shrinkage Occurs., Note 2: Procedures (a) And (d) In Note I Above Gives Yarns
Of A Generally High-stretch Character. This Is Frequently Reduced By Re-heating
The Yarn In A State Where It Is Only Partly Relaxed From The Fully Extended Cond
ition, Thus Producing A Stabilized Yarn With The Bulkiness Little Reduced But Wi
th A Much Reduced Retractive Power., Note 3: The Procedure (g) May Also Be Appli
ed To Fibres Which Are Not Thermoplastic.
Crinkled
An Uneven, Wrinkle, Or Puckered Effect On The Fabric Surface Which Can Be Create
d By A Variety Of Mechanical Or Chemical Finishes, Or Through The Use Of High Tw
ist Yarns.
Crinoline
A Stiff, Open Weave Fabric, Usually Heavily Sized. Used Mainly As Lining Or Inte
rlining.
Crisp
Describes Fabrics With A Smooth, Clean Surface, Good Body, And A Relatively Firm
Hand Which May Make Noise When Rustled.
Critical Application Value (cav)
In A Low Add-on Easy-care Finishing System, The Amount Of Finishing Liquor Which
Must Be Applied To A Given Fabric To Avoid A Non-uniform Distribution Of Cross-
linking After Drying And Curing.
Crochet Lace
Lace Handmade With A Crochet Hook Usually Medallion Patterns On A Mesh Ground.
Crocking
A Synonym For 'rubbing' In The Sense Of The Fastness To Rubbing Of Dyes.
Crockmeter
An Apparatus For Evaluating The Colour Fastness To Rubbing Of Dyed Or Printed Te
xtiles.
Cross Cut
Refers To A Corduroy Fabric Which Has The Pile Cut In A Weftwise Direction, Form
ing Squares Or Rectangles On The Surface.
Cross Dyed
A Method Of Coloring Fabric Made With Strategically Placed Yarns Of 2 Or More Di
fferent Fibers. A Pre-planned Effect Becomes Visible By Dyeing The Fabric In Dif
ferent Dye Baths, One For Each Of The Types Of Yarn. For Example A Predominately
Rayon Fabric May Have A Polyester Yarn Woven Into It In A Stripe Pattern Then D
yed In A Bath To Which Only The Rayon Is Sensitive. The Polyester Stripe Will Be
Made To Appear Since It Remains Undyed. The Stripe May Then Be Colored By Dyein
g It Again In A Bath Of A Different Color To Which Only The Polyester Is Sensiti
ve. Heather Effects May Be Achieved By Mixing More Than One Fiber In A Single Ya
rn Then Cross Dyeing.
Cross Dyed & Overprinted
A Cross Dyed Fabric Which Has Also Had A Design Printed On It.
Cross Dyeing
The Dyeing Of One Component Of A Mixture Of Fibres Of Which At Least One Is Alre
ady Coloured.
Cross Lapping; Cross Laying
The Production Of A Nonwoven Web Or Batt From A Fibre Web By Traversing It To An
d Fro Across A Lattice Moving At Right Angles To The Direction Of Traverse.
Crossbred
A Term Applied Loosely To Wool, Tops, Yarns Or Fabrics Produced From Wools Of Me
dium Quality.
Cross-linking
The Creation Of Chemical Bonds Between Polymer Molecules E.g., In A Fibre Or In
A Pigment Binder This Generally Restricts Swelling And Alters Elastic Recovery.
Cross-wound Package
A Package Characterized By The Large Crossing Angle Of The Helixes Of Sliver Or
Yarn.
Crumbs
A Term Used To Describe Shredded Alkali-cellulose.
Crush Cutting
A Process In Converting In Which The Filaments Of The Tow Are Severed By Crushin
g Between An Anvil Roller And A Cutting Roller With Raised 'blades' Helically Di
sposed Around Its Surface.
Crushed
A Finish That Creates A Planned Irregular Disturbance On The Surface Of The Fabr
ic, Usually By Mechanical Means.
Crystallinity
Three-dimensional Order In The Arrangement Of Atoms And Molecules Within A Chemi
cal Phase. Most Chemical Compounds Of Low Molecular Weight May Be Obtained In A
State Of Virtually Complete Three-dimensional Order. When Polymers Crystallize,
In General The Product Consists Of Regions Of High Order (crystallites), Regions
Of Low Order (amorphous Regions), And Regions Of Intermediate Order. Different
Methods Of Measuring The Degree Of Crystallinity (e.g., Density, Wide-angle X-ra
y Scattering, Enthalpy Measurement) Emphasize Different Aspects And Therefore Le
ad To Quantitatively Different Values. In Recent Years The Simple Concept Of Cry
stalline And Amorphous Regions Has Been Questioned And Terms Such As Para-crysta
lline Have Been Introduced.
Csp
See Count-strength Product
Culottes
French Word For Rather Tight Breeches.
Cupra (fibre) (USA)
The Term Used Originally, And Still In The U. S. A., To Describe Fibres Of Regen
erated Cellulose Obtained By The Cuprammonium Process. The Iso Preferred Classif
ication For These Fibres Is Cupro.
Cuprammonium Rayon (fibre)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Of Regenerated Cellulose Obtained By The Cuprammo
nium Process.
Cupro (fibre) (Generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Of Regenerated Cellulose Obtained By The Cuprammo
nium Process.
Curing
A Process Following Addition Of A Finish To Textile Fabrics In Which Appropriate
Conditions Are Used To Effect A Chemical Reaction. Heat Treatment For Several M
inutes Has Been Standard, But Higher Temperatures For Short Times (flash-curing)
And Long Times At Low Temperatures And Higher Regain (moist Curing) Are Also Us
ed.
Cut Velvet
Jacquard Fabric Consisting Of A Velvet Design On A Plain Ground. Also Called Bea
ded Velvet. Used In Evening Wear And Home Furnishings.
Cuticle
The Surface Layer Of Animal Hair Fibres, Consisting Of Flat Overlapping Scales.
Dacron
Du Pont Brand Of Polyester Fiber.
Damask
Originally A Silk Fabric Made In Damascus, Only One Colour, With Patterns Of Flo
wers, Branches And Animals In Satin Finish Contrasting With The Slightly Texture
d Taffeta Background. Multi-coloured Damasks Are Called Lampas.
Deacetylated Acetate (fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Of Regenerated Cellulose Obtained By Almost Compl
ete De-ethanoylation (deacetylation) Of A Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate).
Dead Cotton
An Extreme Form Of Immature Cotton With A Very Thin Fibre Wall., Note: Commonly
The Cause Is Excessively Slow Secondary Growth, Resulting In Many Of The Fibres
Having Developed Only A Thin Secondary Wall By The Time The Boll Opens. It Is So
metimes Caused By Premature 'death' Or Cessation Of Growth Due To Factors Such A
s Local Pest Attack, Incidence Of Some Types Of Disease, Or Curtailment Of The L
ife Of The Plant Itself, Resulting In The Death Of The Fibres Before The Full Po
tential Secondary-wall Thickening Has Been Reached. Particularly For Such Fibres
There May Be No Secondary Thickening At All. The Fibres Are Weak, Brittle And L
acking In Twist Or Convolutions, Become Easily Entangled Into Neps, And Are Gene
rally Lacking In Lustre, With A 'dead' Appearance, Although Some Fibres Without
Any Secondary Thickening Tend To Stick Together And Show Up As Small Bundles In
Ginned Raw Cotton.
Dead Wool
Wool Taken From Sheep That Have Died From Natural Causes
De-aeration
The Removal Of All Undissolved Gases And Part Of The Dissolved Gases (chiefly Ai
r) From Solutions Prior To Extrusion.
Deburring
A Process In Wool Yarn Manufacturing For Extracting Burrs, Seeds And Vegetable M
atter From Wool. Deburring Is Carried Out Mechanically By A Burring Machine.
Decitex
A Unit Of The Tex System.
Deco
Refers To Designs Which Suggest The Art Deco Style Of The 20's And 30's, Charact
erized By Bold Outlines And Streamlined Shapes.
Decrystallised Cotton
Cotton Treated With Reagents Such As Zinc Chloride, Concentrated Caustic Soda So
lutions Or Amines To Reduce The Degree Of Crystallization.
Deep Dyeing
Descriptive Of Fibres Modified So As To Have Greater Uptake Of Selected Dyes Tha
n Normal Fibres, When The Two Are Dyed Together., Degreasing, (1) The Removal Of
Grease, Suint, And Extraneous Matter From Wool By An Aqueous Or Solvent Process
., (2) The Removal Of Natural Fats, Waxes, Grease, Oil, And Dirt From Any Textil
e Material By Extraction With An Organic Solvent., Degree Of Orientation, The Ex
tent To Which The Macromolecules Composing A Fibre Or Film Lie In A Predominant
Direction In The Case Of Fibres The Predominant Direction Is Usually The Fibre A
xis. Note 1: There Are Several Methods For Assessment Of The Degree Of Orientati
on, Of Which Measurement Of Birefringence Is The Most Usual., Note 2: The Degree
s Of Orientation Of Crystalline And Non-crystalline Regions May Be Evaluated Sep
arately.
Degree Of Polymerisation (dp)
The Average Number Of Repeating Units In The Individual Macromolecules In A Poly
mer., Note: In General, This Average Will Depend On The Basis On Which It Is Cal
culated, Which Should Stated. For Example, It May Be Based Upon A Mass (weight)
Or A Number Average.
Degumming
The Removal Of Sericin ( Silk Gum) From Silk Yarns Or Fabrics, Or From Silk Wast
e Prior To Spinning, By A Controlled, Hot, Mildly Alkaline Treatment Intended To
Have Little Effect On The Underlying Fibroin.
Delicate
Referring To A Fine, Light Hand With Good Drape.
Delustrant
A Particulate Material Added Before Extrusion To Subdue The Lustre Of A Man-made
Fibre. Note 1: The Anatase Form Of Titanium Dioxide Is Commonly Used For This
Purpose. Note 2: Terms Used To Indicate The Level Of Delustrant In Man-made Fibr
es Include: Clear, Bright, Semi-dull, Semi-matt, Dull, Matt, Extra Dull, And Sup
er Dull.
Denier
The Weight In Grams Of 9000 Metres Of A Filament Or Yarn Etc. The Denier System
Was Common As The Standard For All Continuous-filament Yarns. Yarns Spun From Ma
n-made Staple Fibre Were Usually Designated By The Count System Appropriate To T
he Method Of Spinning, Although The Fineness Of Individual Fibres Composing The
Spun Yam Was Denoted By Denier. The Recommended System Is The Tex System With Th
e Unit Of Decitex For Filament Yarns.
Denim
A Firm 2/1 Or 3/1 Right Hand Twill Usually With A Colored Warp And White Or Natu
ral Weft . Commonly Made Of Cotton Or Cotton Blends In A Variety Of Weights.
Depitching
The Removal Of Tar Or Other Branding Substances From Wool, Usually, Though Not N
ecessarily, By Solvent-extraction.
Depth
That Colour Quality An Increase In Which Is Associated With An Increase In The Q
uantity Of Colorant Present, All Other Conditions (viewing, Etc.) Remaining The
Same.
Desizing
The Removal Of Size From Fabric.
Detergent
A Substance Normally Having Surface-active Properties Specifically Intended To C
leanse A Substrate.
Detwisted
Descriptive Of A Yarn Of Fibres Or Filaments From Which Twist Has Been Removed.
Devanti?re
17th Century Women's Riding Costume Split At The Back.
Developing
A Step In A Dyeing Or Printing Process In Which An Intermediate Form Of The Colo
rant Is Converted To The Final Form (e.g. Oxidation Of A Vat Leuco Ester).
Dhila
Loose Or Baggy. Thus, A Dhila Payjama, Wide And Roomy All Over.
Dhoti
The Traditional Indian Dress For The Lower Part Of The Body, Consisting Of A Pie
ce Of Unstitched Cloth Draped Over The Hips And Legs. Worn In Various Ways In Di
fferent Parts Of The Country, Alike By Men And Women.
Diacetate (fibre)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Made From Propanone-soluble (acetone-soluble) Cel
lulose Ethanoate (acetate). The Iso Generic Name Is Acetate.
Diamond
Referring To Designs Dominated By Diamond Shapes.
Diazotize
To Convert A Primary Aromatic Amine Into The Corresponding Diazonium Salt, By Tr
eatment With Nitric Acid.
Die Swell
The Increase In Diameter That Occurs As A Visco-elastic Melt Or Solution Emerges
From A Die Or Spinneret Hole.
Differential Dyeing
Usually Descriptive Of Fibres Of The Same Generic Class, But Having Potentially
Different Dyeing Properties From The Standard Fibre.
Diffusion
Movement Of Substance Owing To The Existence Of A Concentration Gradient.
Dimity
A Lightweight, Sheer, Plain Weave Fabric Characterized By Lengthwise Ribs. Somet
imes Also With Crosswise Ribs Forming A Check. Commonly Used For Curtains, Apron
s.
Dip
(1) An Immersion Of Relatively Short Duration Of A Textile In Liquid., (2) The D
epth Of Liquid In The Inner Cylinder Of A Rotary Washing Machine., (3) A Laborat
ory Dyeing, Usually To Develop A Dye Formula, (u.s.a.).
Direct Dye
An Anionic Dye Having Substantivity For Cellulosic Fibres, Normally Applied From
An Aqueous Dyebath Containing An Electrolyte., Direct Spinning, (1) (man-made F
ibre Production) Integrated Polymerization And Fibre Extrusion Without Interveni
ng Isolation Or Storage Of The Polymer., (2) (man-made Fibre Production) The Met
hod Whereby Tow. Is Converted To Staple Fibre And Spun Into Yarn In An Integrate
d Operation., (3) (bast Fibre Production) A Method Of Dry-spinning Bast Fibres W
hereby Untwisted Slivers Are Drafted With Suitable Controls And Directly Twisted
Into Yarn. Gill Spinning And Slip-draft Spinning Systems Are Particular Forms O
f The Method.
Direct Style
A Style Of Printing In One Or Several Colours Where The Dyes Are Applied And The
n Fixed By Ageing Or Other Appropriate Means. The Fabric Is Usually Initially Wh
ite But May Sometimes Have Previously Dyed .
Direct Warping
The Transference Of Yarn From A Package Creel Directly On To A Beam.
Direct-spun
(1) A Term Used To Describe Filaments Or Yarn Produced By Direct Spinning., (2)
Descriptive Of Woollen Yarns Spun On A Mule Onto Weft Bobbins.
Discharge (printing)
To Destroy By Chemical Means A Dye Or Mordant Already Present On A Substrate To
Leave A White Or Differently Coloured Design.
Discharge Printed
A Dyed Fabric Is Printed With A Chemical Paste That Bleaches Out Or "discharges"
The Color To Allow White Patterns On A Dyed Ground. By Adding A Dye To The Past
e That Is Not Affected By The Chemical It Is Possible To Replace The Discharged
Ground Color With Another Color.
Discharging.
The Destruction By Chemical Means Of A Dye Or Mordant Already Present On A Mater
ial To Leave A White Or Differently Coloured Pattern., Note: This Term Is Also U
sed To Cover The Removal Of Gum From Silk (see Degumming)
Disperse Dye
A Substantially Water-insoluble Dye Having Substantivity For One Or More Hydroph
obic Fibres, , E.g., Cellulose Acetate, And Usually Applied From Fine Aqueous Di
spersion.
Dispersion Spinning
A Process In Which The Polymers That Tend To An Infusible, Insoluble, And Genera
lly Intractable Character (e.g., Polytetrafluoroethylene) Are Dispersed As Fine
Particles In A Carrier Such As Sodium Alginate Or Sodium Xanthate Solutions That
Permit Extrusion Into Fibres, After Which The Dispersed Polymer Is Caused To Co
alesce By A Heating Process, The Carrier Being Removed Either By A Heating Or By
A Dissolving Process.
Dissolving Pulp.
A Specially Purified Form Of Cellulose Made From Wood Tissue.
Distressed
Describes A Finish That Disturbs The Surface Of The Fabric, Giving It A Used, Be
aten, Or Uneven Appearance. Often Done Through Sand Or Stone Washing After The F
abric Has Been Pigment Dyed.
District Check
A Category Of Small Check Designs, Sometimes With Contrasting Overplaids, Origin
ally Of Scottish Origin. Glen Plaids Are Part Of This Category.
Dobby
1. A Fabric With Small, Repeating Geometric Patterns Woven Into The Surface. 2.
An Attachment To A Loom Which Controls The Harness Allowing The Weaving Of These
Geometric Patterns.
Doeskin
A Soft Fabric With A Low, Napped Finish On One Side.
Doffing Tube (rotor Spinning)
An Extension To The Navel To Guide The Withdrawn Yarn From The Rotor.
Dolly
(1) A Machine In Which Fabric Pieces Sewn End To End Are Circulated Repeatedly T
hrough A Liquor By Means Of A Single Pair Of Squeeze Rollers Above The Liquor. ,
(2) A Machine In Which Lace, Hosiery, Or Knitwears Are Subjected To The Action
Of Free-falling Beaters While Immersed In A Detergent Solution And Carried In A
Moving Rectangular Or Cylindrical Box., (3) An Open-width Washer, Containing 3-5
Compartments, Originally Used For Dunging Aged Cotton Prints, And Now Also Used
For Any Open-width Washing Where A Shorter Machine Than An Open Soaper Is Desir
ed.
Dome Shaped
En Coupole. Round Table En Gu?ridon. Oval Paniers ? Coudes.
Donegal
A Plain-weave Fabric Woven From Woollen-spun Yarns Characterized By A Random Dis
tribution Of Brightly Coloured Flecks Or Slubs. It Was Originally Produced As A
Coarse Woollen Suiting In County Donegal.
Dope
A Solution (spinning Solution) Of Fibre-forming Polymer As Prepared For Extrusio
n Through A Spinneret., Note: A Spinning Solution Is Often Referred To As Dope,
A Term Historically Associated With Cellulose Ethanoate (cellulose Acetate) Solu
tions As Varnishes.
Dope/solution Dyed
Manufactured Fibers Which Have Been Colored By Dyeing The Polymer Solution Befor
e It Is Extruded & Spun Into Yarn.
Dope-dyed
Descriptive Of Man-made Fibres In Which Colouring Matter (e.g., Dye Or Pigment)
Has Been Incorporated Before The Filament Is Formed.
Doru
Long Rope With Which The Thick Woolen Coat Worn By The Gaddis Is Secured Around
The Waist.
Dosuti
A Hindi Word, Which Literally Means 'two Threads' Used To Describe The Operation
Of Combining Two Threads Together At A Winding Machine, In Which Case The Opera
tion Is Known As 'dosuti Winding. When Applied To Fabric, It Means That Two Warp
Ends Are Working In Pairs And That Two Weft Threads Are Placed In The Same Shed
.
Dot
A Design Dominated By Circular Spots, Which May Be Of Any Size, Printed Or Woven
Into The Fabric. Small Dots Are Often Called Pin Dots; Medium To Large Dots May
Be Referred To As Aspirin Dots, Coin Dots Or Polka Dots.
Dotted Swiss
A Sheer Fabric Often A Lawn Or Batiste, Usually Of Cotton Or Cotton Blend, With
A Small Dot Pattern. The Dots Are Usually Woven Into The Fabric But May Be Flock
ed Or Printed . Used For Curtains, Children's Clothes, Dresses.
Double (yarn)
See Folded Yarn, Also Termed Plied Yarn
Double Cloth
A Fabric Consisting Of 2 Layers Woven Together On The Same Loom . The Fabrics Ma
y Be Held Together With Binder Threads Or Interwoven . The 2 Layers Often Are Of
Different Patterns, Colors Or Weaves . Used For Coatings, Sportswear, Blankets,
Upholstery.
Double Face
A Reversible 2 Layer Fabric, Usually With A Different Color Or Pattern On Each S
ide. Double Face Is Usually A Double Cloth But Some Reversible Bonded Fabrics Ma
y Be Referred To As Double Face.
Double Knit
A Weft Knit, Double Layered Fabric Produced On A Machine With 2 Sets Of Needles.
Double Knits Are Thicker Have More Body And Are More Stable Than Single Knits.
As They Curl, Sag, And Shrink Less Than Single Knits , They Are More Suitable Fo
r Sportswear And Tailored Garments. They Usually Are Reversible.
Double Plush Carpets
See Face-to-face Carpets
Doublings (drawing)
The Number Of Laps, Rovings, Slivers Or Slubbings, Fed Simultaneously Into A Mac
hine For Drafting Into A Single End., Note: Doubling Is Employed To Promote Blen
ding And Regularity.
Doupion
See Dupion
Doupioni
1 The Irregular, Uneven, Rough Silk Taken From Double Cocoons Or Interlocked Coc
oons Which Are Reeled Together. 2. Fabrics With Characteristic Slubs Made From D
oupioni Silk Or Made To Imitate Doupioni Silk.
Downproof
A Fabric Which Resists The Penetration Of Down. The Fabric May Be Closely Woven
To Be Downproof By Nature Or May Be Cired Or Coated To Make It Downproof.
Draft
(1) When Drafting The Degree Of Attenuation Calculated Either As The Ratio Of Th
e Input And Output Linear Densities, Or As The Ratio Of The Surface Speeds Of Th
e Output And Input Machine Components Which Bring About Drafting., (2) To Reduce
The Linear Density Of A Fibrous Assembly By Drawing, Or Drafting.
Drafting
(1) The Process Of Drawing Out Laps, Slivers, Slubbings, And Rovings To Decrease
The Linear Density., (2) The Order In Which Threads Are Drawn Through Heald Eye
s Before Weaving.
Drapey
Refers To A Fabric With Good Drape, That Is, One That Is Supple And Falls Easily
Into Graceful Folds When Hung Or Tailored.
Draping
Draping Means To Hang Or To Adorn The Body Form With Loose Fabric, And To Obtain
A Body Fitted Garment By Using Adequate Sewing Techniques.
Draw (mule)
The Cycle Of Operations From The Start Of The Outward Run To The Finish Of The I
nward Run Of The Carriage Of A Spinning Or A Twiner Mule.
Draw (sampling)
A Sample Of Fibres Abstracted Manually From A Bulk Lot Of Raw Material Or Sliver
With A View To Assessing The Length And/or Distribution Of Length Of Fibre With
in The Sample.
Draw Mechanism (knitting)
A Mechanism On A Straight-bar Knitting Machine For Converting Rotary Motion Into
Reciprocating Motion For The Purpose Of Laying The Yarn And Kinking It Round Th
e Needles.
Draw Pin
A Stationary Pin Or Guide, Which By Inducing A Localized Change In Yarn Tension
And/or Temperature May Be Used To Stabilize The Position Of The Draw-point Or Ne
ck In Some Processes Of Drawing Of Man-made-fibre Yarns., Note: For The Drawing
Of Some Fibre Types, E.g., Polyester, A Heated Pin May Be Used: With Other Types
, E.g., Nylon, The Pin Is Normally Not Heated.
Draw Ratio
Machine Draw Ratio, In A Drawing Process, The Ratio Of The Peripheral Speed Of T
he Draw Roller To That Of The Feed Roller.: True Draw Ratio, In A Drawing Proces
s, The Ratio Of The Linear Density Of The Undrawn Yam To That Of The Drawn Yam.
: Residual Draw Ratio, The Draw Ratio Required, In Draw Texturing, To Convert A
Partially Oriented Yarn Into A Commercially Acceptable Product. : Natural Draw R
atio, The Ratio Of The Cross-sectional Areas Of A Filament Before And After The
Neck, When A Synthetic Filament Or Film Draws At A Neck.
Draw Roller
The Output Roller Of A Zone In Which Drawing Is Taking Place.
Draw Thread (knitting)
A Thread Introduced In The Form Of One Row Of Loops During Knitting Which, On Re
moval, Permits The Separation Of Articles That Are Knitted As A Succession Of Un
its Connected Together.
Draw Threads (lace)
Removable Threads Included In The Construction Of Lace Either To Act As A Tempor
ary Support For Certain Parts Of The Pattern Or To Hold Together Narrow Widths O
r Units That Are Separated Subsequently By Their Removal.
Draw-beaming
See Draw-warping, Also Termed Warp Drawing (USA.)
Draw-down
In Man-made Filament Extrusion, The Ratio Of Take-up Or Haul-off Speed To The Av
erage Speed Of The Spinning Fluid As It Leaves The Spinneret., Note: The Terms S
pin-stretch Ratio And Extrusion Ratio Are Also Commonly Used.
Drawing (staple Yarn)
Operations By Which Slivers Are Blended (or Doubled) Levelled, And By Drafting R
educed To The State Of Sliver Or Roving Suitable For Spinning. In Cotton Spinnin
g The Term Is Only Applied To Processing At The Drawframe. Various Systems Of Dr
awing Are Practised In Modern Worsted Spinning, But With Machinery Development,
And The Greater Use Of Man-made Staple Fibres, The Differences Are Becoming Less
Distinct. Most Modern Drawing Sets Incorporate Three Passages Of Pin Drafting A
nd A Roving Process. The Systems Differ Mainly In The Means Of Fibre Control Bet
ween The Major Pairs Of Drafting Rollers And In The Types Of Output Package.
Drawing (synthetic Filaments And Films)
The Stretching To Near The Limit Of Plastic Flow Of Synthetic Filaments Or Films
Of Low Molecular Orientation., Note: This Process Orients The Molecular Chains
In The Length Direction.
Drawing, Cold (synthetic Filaments And Films)
The Drawing Of Synthetic Filaments Or Films Without The Intentional Application
Of External Heat. , Note: Free Drawing Of Filaments Or Films At A Neck Is Also R
eferred To As Cold Drawing Even Though This May Be Carried Out In A Heated Envir
onment.
Drawing, Hot (synthetic Filaments And Films)
A Term Applied To The Drawing Of Synthetic Filaments Or Films With The Intention
al Application Of External Heat.
Drawing-in
The Process Of Drawing The Threads Of A Warp Through The Eyes Of A Heald And The
Dents Of A Reed.
Drawn Yarn
Extruded Yarn That Has Been Subjected To A Stretching Or Drawing Process That Or
ients The Long-chain Molecules Of Which It Is Composed In The Direction Of The F
ilament Axis. On Further Stretching, Such Yarn Acquires Elastic Extension As Com
pared With The Plastic Flow Of Undrawn Yarn.
Draw-spinning
A Process For Spinning Partially Or Highly Oriented Filaments In Which The Orien
tation Is Introduced Prior To The First Forwarding Or Collecting Device
Draw-texturing
A Process In Which The Drawing Stage Of Man-made-yarn Manufacture Is Combined Wi
th The Texturing Process On One Machine., Note: The Drawing And Texturing Stages
May Take Place In Separate, Usually Consecutive, Zones Of A Machine (sequential
Draw-texturing) Or Together In The Same Zone (simultaneous Draw-texturing).
Draw-twist
To Orient A Filament Yarn By Drawing It And Then To Twist It In Integrated Seque
ntial Stages.
Draw-warping
A Process For The Preparation Of Warp Beams Or Section Beams From A Creel Of Pac
kages Of Partially Oriented Yarn In Which The Traditionally Separate Stages Of D
rawing And Beaming Are Combined Sequentially On One Machine., Also Termed Draw-b
eaming; Warp Drawing (USA.)
Draw-wind
To Orient A Filament Yarn By Drawing It, And Then To Wind It On To A Package In
An Integrated Process Without Imparting Twist.
Dress Muslin
See Muslin
Dressing (flax)
A Combing Process Applied To Stricks Or Pieces Of Line Flax Fibre To Parallelize
The Strands, Remove Naps Or Bunches Of Entangled Fibres, And Square The Ends Of
The Pieces By Pulling Or Breaking Fibres That Protrude From The Ends.
Dressing (lace)
The Operation Of Stretching Lace, Net, Or Lace-furnishing Products To Size, Then
Drying, After The Application Of Stiffening Or Softening Agents. The Stretching
And Drying May Be Carried Out On Either A Running Stenter Or A Stationary Frame
.
Dressing (warp Preparation)
The Operation Of Assembling Yarns From A Ball Warp, Beam, Or Chain On A Beam Imm
ediately Prior To Weaving., Scotch Dressing, (1) (dry Taping; Scotch Beaming) A
Method Of Preparing Striped Warps For Weaving, Suitable For Use When Long Length
s Of Any One Pattern Are To Be Woven. Three Operations Are Involved, (a) Splitti
ng-off From Stock Ball Warps (bleached Or Dyed, And Sized) The Required Number O
f Threads Of The Required Colours,, (b) The Winding Of The Differently Coloured
Warps, Each Onto A Separate 'back' Or Warper's Beam, And, (c) The Simultaneous W
inding Of The Threads From A Set Of Back Beams Through A Coarse Reed Onto A Loom
Beam: (2) (dresser Sizing; Scotch Warp Dressing) A Method Of Warp Preparation,
Used Particular Linen Industry, Which Incorporates Sizing. Yam In Sheet Form Is
Withdrawn From Two Warper's Beams (one Set At Each End Of The Machine) And Wound
Onto A Loom Beam At A Headstock. Each Half Of The Machine Has Its Own Size Box
And Hot- Air-drying Arrangement., Yorkshire Dressing, A Method Of Preparing A St
riped Warp Beam For A Loom. Four Operations Are Involved, (a) Splitting-off From
Stock Ball Warps (bleached Or Dyed, And Sized) The Required Number Of Threads O
f The Required Colours,, (b) The Disposition Of These Threads To Pattern In The
Reed With Or Without Ends From Stock Grey Warps,, (c) The Slow And Intermittent
Winding Of The Threads Onto The Loom Beam, During The Process They Are Tensioned
By Means Of Rods And Rollers, Brushed By Hand, And Kept And In Correct Position
And If, As Is Usual, There Are Two Or Four Ends Per Reed Dent, These Are Furthe
r Separated By Means Of A Rod, And , (d) The Picking Of An End-and-end Lease. Th
e Process Ensures That In The Warp All Threads Will Be Kept Parallel, Separated
One From Another, In Their Correct Position, And Correctly Tensioned.
Drill
A Strong, Medium To Heavy Weight 2x1 Or 3x1 Warp Faced Twill Usually Of Cotton.
It Is Similar To Denim But Drill Is Usually Piece Dyed.
Drip-dry
Descriptive Of Textile Materials That Are Reasonably Resistant To Disturbance Of
Fabric Structure And Appearance During Wear And Washing And Require A Minimum O
f Ironing Or Pressing.
Drop Stitch
Refers To A Knit Fabric With An Open Stripe Design At Set Intervals Made By Remo
ving Some Of The Needles.
Dry
Refers To A Fabric That Feels Lacking In Surface Moisture Or Natural Lubrication
. Cottons Are Often Said To Feel Dry.
Dry Clean
To Remove Grease, Oil, And Dirt From Garments Or Fabrics By Treating Them In An
Organic Solvent, As Distinct From Aqueous Liquors. Examples Of Suitable Solvents
Are White Spirit, Trichloroethylene (trichlorethylene) And Tetrachloroethylene
(perchlorethylene). The Process Was Originally Known As 'french Cleaning'., Also
Termed French Cleaning
Dry Laying
A Method Of Forming A Fibre Web Or Batt By Carding And/or Air Laying, Followed B
y Any Type Of Bonding Process.
Dry Spinning (man-made Fibre Production)
Conversion Of A Dissolved Polymer Into Filaments By Extrusion And Evaporation Of
The Solvent From The Extrudate.
Dry-combed Top
A Wool Top Containing Not More Than 1 % Of Fatty Matter Based On The Oven-dry, F
at-free Weight As Tested By The International Wool Textile Organisation's Method
Which Specifies Soxhlet Extraction With Dichloromethane., ,m Note: The Standard
Regain Of A Dry-combed Top Is 18.25% Based On The Combined Weight Of Oven-dry,
Fat-free Wool And The Fatty Matter.
Drying Cylinder
Heated, Rotating, Hollow Cylinder(s) Around Which Textile Material Or Paper Is P
assed In Contact With It.
Dry-spun
(1) Descriptive Of A Worsted Yarn Produced From A Dry-combed Top Or Of Synthetic
Yams Spun On Similar Machinery., (2) Descriptive Of Coarse Flax Yarn Spun From
Air-dry Roving (cf. Wet-spun ), (3) Descriptive Of Man-made Filaments Produced B
y Dry-spinning.
Duchesse Lace
A Guipure Lace Characterized By Floral And Leaf Designs With Very Little Ground
. Heavier Threads Are Intertwined To Give Raised Texture. Used In Bridal Veils A
nd Gowns.
Duck
See Canvas/ Duck.
Dull
Descriptive Of Textile Materials, The Lustre Of Which Has Been Reduced.
Dupaluidupallari Top
Small, Close-fitting Cap Made Generally Of Muslin, And Consisting Of Two Identic
al Pieces Cut Slightly Rounded And Curved Towards The Top.
Dupatta
Veil-cloth Worn By Women, Draped Loosely Around The Upper Part Of The Body.
Dupion
A Silk-breeding Term Meaning Double-cocoon. Hence, An Irregular, Raw, Rough Silk
Reeled From Double Cocoons.
Dupion Fabric.
Originally A Silk Fabric Woven From Doupion Yarns. The Term Is Nowadays Applied
To Imitations Woven From Man-made-fibre Yarns, But It Is Recommended That In Suc
h Contexts The Name Of The Fibre Is Indicated.
Durable Finish
Any Type Of Finish Reasonably Resistant To Normal Usage, Washing, And/or Dry-cle
aning
Durable Press
A Finishing Treatment Designed To Impart To A Textile Material Or Garment. The R
etention Of Specific Contours Including Creases And Pleats Resistant To Normal U
sage, Washing, And/or Dry-cleaning., Note: The Treatment May Involve The Use Of
Synthetic Resin, Which May Be Applied And Cured Either Before Or After Fabricati
on Of A Garment, Or, In The Case Of Textiles Composed Of Heat-settable Fibres, M
ay Involve High-temperature Pressing.
Duvetyn
Medium To Heavy Weight Twill Fabric With A Soft, Short Nap Covering The Weave. I
t Has A Sueded, Velvety Hand. Originally Made Of Wool Or Wool Blends But May Be
Of Cotton Or Other Fibers . Used In Suits, Coats, Millinery.
Dye
A Colorant That Has Substantivity For A Substrate, Either Inherent Or Induced By
Reactants.
Dyed & Overprinted
Refers To Fabrics Which Have Been First Piece Dyed, Then Printed In Colors That
Are Darker Than The Dyed Ground.
Dye-fixing Agent
A Substance, Generally Organic, Applied To A Dyed Or Printed Material To Improve
Its Fastness To Wet Treatments.
Easy Care
Refers To Fabrics Which Are Restored To Their Original Appearance After Launderi
ng With Little Or No Ironing. Generally Such Fabrics Can Be Machine Washed And T
umble Dried/See Drip-dry.
Ecru (knitting)
Descriptive Of Fibres, Yarns, Or Fabrics That Have Not Been Subjected To Process
es Affecting Their Natural Colour.
Effect Threads
Yarns Inserted In A Fabric That Are Sufficiently Different In Fibre, Count, Or C
onstruction To Form Or Enhance A Pattern.
Egyptian Cotton
Cotton From Egypt Characterized By Its Strong, Fine, Long And Lustrous Fibers.
Elastane (fibre) (generic name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres That Are Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecu
les Having In The Chain At Least 85% (by Mass) Of Segmented Polyurethane Groups
And Which Rapidly Revert Substantially To Their Original Length After Extension
To Three Times That Length.
Elastic Fabric
A Fabric Containing Rubber Or Other Elastomeric Fibres Or Threads, Having Recove
rable Extensibility In A Direction Parallel To The Elastomeric Threads, And Char
acterized By A High Resistance To Deformation And A High Capacity To Recover Its
Normal Size And Shape.
Elastodiene (fibre) (generic name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Natural Or Synthetic Polyisoprene, Or
Composed Of One Or More Dienes Polymerized With Or Without One Or More Vinyl Mo
nomers, Which Rapidly Revert Substantially To Their Original Length After Extens
ion To Three Times That Length.
Elastomer
Any Polymer Having High Extensibility Together With Rapid And Substantially Comp
lete Elastic Recovery., Note: Most Fibres Formed From Elastomers Have Breaking E
longations In Excess Of One Hundred Percent.
Elastomeric Yarn
A Yarn Formed From An Elastomer., Note 1: Elastomeric Yarn May Either Be Incorpo
rated Into Fabric In The Bare State Or Wrapped With Relatively Inextensible Fibr
es. Wrapping Is Done By Covering (see Covered Yarn), Core Spinning Or Uptwisting
., Note 2: Examples Are Elastane And Elastodiene Yarns.
Electrostatic Flocking
The Process Of Applying A Flock To An Adhesive-coated Substrate In A High-voltag
e Electrostatic Field.
Elongation
See Extension, Note: The Increase May Be Expressed In Three Ways, Namely:, (i) A
s A Length, (ii) As A Percentage Of The Initial Length, And, (iii) As A Fraction
Of The Initial Length.
Elysian
A Thick, Heavy, Usually Woolen Fabric With A Deep Nap That Forms A Diagonal Or R
ipple Pattern On The Surface. Used For Coatings.
Emboss
To Produce A Pattern In Relief By Passing Fabric Through A Calendar In Which A H
eated Metal Bowl Engraved With The Pattern Works Against A Relatively Soft Bowl,
Built Up Of Compressed Paper Or Cotton On A Metal Centre.
Embossed
Fabric With A Raised Design That Has Been Engraved On A Metal Cylinder Then Impr
essed On The Fabric With Heat And Pressure.
Embroidered
A Fabric Decorated With Needlework Stitching Of Yarn Or Thread. May Be Done By H
and Or Machine.
Embroidery Linen
See Art/embroidery Linen.
Emerizing
A Process In Which Fabric Is Passed Over A Series Of Emery-covered Rollers To Pr
oduce A Suede-like Finish. Note: A Similar Process Is Known As Sueding.
End
(1) (spinning) An Individual Strand,, (2) (weaving) An Individual Warp Thread.,
(3) (fabric) A Length Of Finished Fabric Less Than A Customary Unit (piece) In L
ength, (4) (finishing) , (a) Each Passage Of A Length Of Fabric Through A Machin
e, For Example, In Jig-dyeing., (b) A Joint Between Pieces Of Fabric Due, For Ex
ample, To Damage Or Short Lengths In Weaving Or Damage In Bleaching, Dyeing Or F
inishing
End & End
A Plain Weave Fabric With A Warp Yarn Of One Color Alternating With A Warp Yarn
Of White Or A Second Color. Often The Weft Yarns Alternate With The Same 2 Color
s Forming A Mini Check Design. Used Most Commonly In Shirtings.
End-group
A Chemical Group That Forms The End Of A Polymer Chain. Linear Polymers Possess
Two End-groups Per Molecule And Branched Polymers With N Branch Points Possess N
+ 2 End-groups Per Molecule.
Engag?antes
Lace Cuffs With Two Or Three Rows Of Ruffles, Finishing Women's Gown Sleeves In
Louis Xiv's Time. They Were Still Worn In The 18th Century With Gowns ? La Franc
aise.
Enzyme Washed
Refers To The Process Of Washing With A Cellulase Enzyme -one Which Attacks The
Cellulose In The Fabric- Giving It A Used, Worn Appearance And A Desirable Soft
Hand . The Effect Is Similar To Stone Washing But Is Less Damaging To The Fabric
. It Is Sometimes Called Bio-washing. Done Commonly With Denim Or Other Cottons
And Fabrics Of Lyocell.
Epitropic Fibre
A Fibre Whose Surface Contains Partially Or Wholly Embedded Particles That Modif
y One Or More Of Its Properties, E.g., Its Electrical Conductivity.
Eri
A Type Of Wild Silk.
Ethnic
Refers To Designs With Elements Suggesting The Culture Or Traditional Designs Of
A Particular Group Of People.
Exfoliation
An Inherent Fault In Silk Only Apparent After Degumming Or Dyeing. It Is Charact
erized By Fine Fibrils Or Fibrillae That Become Separated From The Filament, So
Giving A Speckled, Dishevelled Appearance.
Exhaustion
The Proportion Of Dye Or Other Substance Taken Up By A Substrate At Any Stage Of
A Process To The Amount Originally Available.
Expression (percent)
The Weight Of Liquid Retained By Textile Material After Mangling Or Hydroextract
ion, Calculated As A Percentage Of The Air-dry Weight Of The Goods.
Extension
An Increase In Length., Note: The Increase May Be Expressed In Three Ways, Namel
y:, (i) As A Length, (ii) As A Percentage Of The Initial Length, And, (iii) As A
Fraction Of The Initial Length.
Extract
Wool Or Hair Recovered By The Wet Process Of Carbonization.
Extrusion
In The Spinning Of Man-made Filaments, Fibre-forming Substances In The Plastic O
r Molten State, Or In Solution, Are Forced Through The Holes Of A Spinneret Or D
ie At A Controlled Rate. There Are Five General Methods Of Spinning (extruding)
Man-made Filaments, But Combinations Of These Methods May Be Used (see Dispersio
n Spinning, Dry Spinning, Melt Spinning, Reaction Spinning, And Wet Spinning)
Extrusion (fibre Production)
The Process Of Forming Fibres By Forcing Materials Through Orifices.
Extrusion Ratio
In Man-made Filament Extrusion, The Ratio Of Take-up Or Haul-off Speed To The Av
erage Speed Of The Spinning Fluid As It Leaves The Spinneret.
Eyelash
A Fabric With Clipped Yarn On The Surface Suggesting Eyelashes.
Eyelet
A Fabric Decorated With Cut Out Areas Surrounded By Stitching. Used For Dresses,
Blouses, Children's Apparel, Curtains
Fabric (textile)
A Manufactured Assembly Of Fibres And/or Yarns That Has Substantial Surface Area
In Relation
To Its Thickness And Sufficient Mechanical Strength To Give The Assembly Inheren
t Cohesion.
, Note: Fabrics Are Most Commonly Woven Or Knitted, But The Term Includes Assemb
lies Produced By
Lace-making, Tufting, Felting, Net-making, And The So-called Nonwoven Processes.
Fabric Length
Unless Otherwise Specified, The Usable Length Of A Piece Between Any Truth Marks
, Piece-ends, Or Numbering, When The Fabric Is Measured Laid Flat On A Table In
The Absence Of Tension.
Fabric Width
Unless Otherwise Specified, The Distance From Edge To Edge Of A Fabric When Laid
Flat On A Table Without Tension. In The Case Of Commercial Dispute The Measurem
ent Should Be Made After The Fabric Has Been Conditioned In A Standard Atmospher
e For Testing . When Buying And Selling Fabric It Is Normal To Specify The Basis
On Which The Width Is To Be Assessed E.g., Overall, Within Limits, Or Usable Wi
dth (which Implies Within Stenter Pin Marks).
Face-finished (fabric)
Descriptive Of A Finish, For Example, To Wool Fabrics, In Which The Face Side Is
Treated Selectively, As In Raising.
Face-to-face Carpets
Carpets Manufactured As A Sandwich In Which The Pile Is Attached Alternately To
Two Substrates: Two Cut Pile Carpets Are Made By Cutting The Pile Yarns Between
The Two Substrates.
Facing Silk
A Fine Lustrous Fabric Of Silk (usually Of Corded Satin, Twill Weave, Or Barathe
a) Used For Facing, E.g., Lapels In Men's Evening Wear. (fabrics Of Other Fibres
Are Used For Facing Purposes But Are Not Properly Described As 'facing Silk'.)
Facings
Edging Of Fine Fur Or Rich Cloth, These Trimmings Were Purely For Decoration. Du
ring The Course Of Time The Meaning Changed Towards The Contemporary Meaning Of
Today, The Term Was Extended To Cover All The Reveres Of The Body Or Sleeves Of
A Garment.
Faconne
A Fabric With Small Scattered Motifs Usually Jacquard But Sometimes Burn Out.
Fa?onn? ( Faconne )
The French Word For 'figured'. It Is Used In Relation To Textiles To Describe Ja
cquard Fabrics With A Pattern Of Small Scattered Figures.
Fad
Short Lived Fashion Are Called Fad's; They Seldom Have Any Lasting Impact On Fut
ure Fashion. They Are Briefly And Suddenly Seen Everywhere And Just As Suddenly
They Vanish.
Fade
(1) In Fastness Testing, Any Change In The Colour Of An Object Caused By Light O
r Contaminants In The Atmosphere, E.g., Burnt-gas Fumes., Note: The Change In Co
lour May Be In Hue, Depth Or Brightness Or Any Combination Of These., (2) Colloq
uially, A Reduction In The Depth Of Colour Of An Object, Irrespective Of Cause.:
Fallers, (1) Straight, Pinned Bars Employed In The Control Of Fibres Between Dr
afting Rollers., (2) Curved Arms Fixed To Two Shafts On A Mule Carriage And Carr
ying The Faller Wires.
Faggoting
A Openwork Stripe Effect With Connecting Threads Across The Open Area That Creat
e A Ladder Effect.
Faille
A Plain Weave Fabric Characterized By A Narrow, Crosswise Rib Which Is Usually T
he Result Of A Fine Warp Yarn Crossed With A Heavier Weft Yarn. Most Commonly Ma
de With Filament Yarns But Can Be From A Variety Of Fibers And Weights. It Usual
ly Has A Soft Hand And A Light Luster With Good Body And Drape.
Falling Bands
Also Known As Rabat And Hanging Collars; Linen Or Lace Collars (or Combined) Wit
h Two Distinct Ends Hanging Down Over The Chest. The Forerunner Of The Cravat In
The 17th Century. They Were Worn By Both Men And Women.
False-twist Direction
The Direction, S Or Z, Of Twist Generated By A False-twisting Device.
False-twisting
A Twisting Operation Applied At An Intermediate Position On A Yarn Or Other Simi
lar Continuous Assembly Of Fibres, So That No Net Twist Can Be Inserted, As Dist
inct From Twisting At The End Of A Yarn Where Real Twist Is Inserted., Note: Rea
l Twisting Necessarily Involves Either Rotation Of A Yam End, As In Uptwisting O
r Downtwisting (see Ring Twisting), Or The Repeated Passage Of A Thread Loop Aro
und An End, As Two-for-one~twisting. In False-twisting, A Yarn Normally Runs Con
tinuously Over Or Through A False-twisting Device Which May Act At Either A Cons
tant Or Varying Rate. When The Twisting Rate Is Constant And Equilibrium Has Bee
n Established, The Yarn Passes Through A Zone Of Added Twist Then, On Leaving Th
e Twisting Device, Returns To Its Original Twist Level. The Added (false) Twist
Level Is Equal To The Ratio Of The Rotational And Axial Speeds Of The Yarn. Equi
librium False-twisting Is Utilized In One Method Of Yarn Texturing Where Thermal
Setting Is Carried Out In The Zone Of Temporary Twist; It Is Also Used To Provi
de Temporary Cohesion And Thus Strength In Some Staple-fibre Processing Systems.
(see Also Pin-twisting And Friction-twisting.) The Self-twist (repco) Process I
s An Example Of The Use Of A Varying False-twisting Rate. Static Elements Such Y
arn Guides May, In Certain Circumstances, Generate Either Equilibrium Or Varying
False-twist In Running Yarns.
False-twist-textured Yarn
A Continuous Process In Which A Yarn Is Highly Twisted, Heat-set And Untwisted.
In An Infrequently Used Alternative Method, Two Yarns Are Continuously Folded To
gether, Heat-set, Then Separated By Unfolding.
Fancy Yarn
A Yarn That Differs From The Normal Construction Of Single And Folded Yarns By W
ay Of Deliberately Produced Irregularities In Its Construction. These Irregulari
ties Relate To An Increased Input Of One Or More Of Its Components Or To The Inc
lusion Of Periodic Effects Such As Knots, Loops, Curls, Slubs Or The Like.
Fargul
A Kind Of Jacket.
Farji
A Kind Of Jacket. Defined By The Dictionaries As Simply 'a Kind Of Garment', The
Farji Was Possibly A Long Over-garment Without Sleeves, Or With Very Short Slee
ves, Open In Front And Worn Like A Coat Over Pyjama (q.v.) Or Angarakha (q.v.).
Farshi Pyjama
Wide-legged Pyjama (q. V) That Trails On The Ground, Sometimes Completely Coveri
ng The Feet; Worn Often With A Kurta (q.v.) Or Angarakha (q.v.).
Fasciated Yarn
A Staple Fibre Yarn That By Virtue Of Is Manufacturing Technique Consists Of A C
ore Of Essentially Parallel Fibres Bound Together By Wrapper Fibres. The Current
Technique Of Manufacture Is Often Referred To As Jet Spinning.
Fashion Forecast
To Predict Of Foretell Future Fashion Tread For A Specific Period Of Time.
Fashioned (weft Knitting)
See Shaping
Fastness
The Property Of Resistance To An Agency Named (e.g., Washing, Light, Rubbing, Cr
ocking, Gas-fumes)., Note: On The Standard Scale, Five Grades Are Usually Recogn
ized, From 5, Signifying Unaffected, To 1, Grossly Changed. For Lightfastness, E
ight Grades Are Used, 8 Representing The Highest Degree Of Fastness.
Fatuhi
A 'jacket Without Sleeves'. Generally Understood As A Vest Lightly Padded With C
otton Wool, And Quilted.
Faux Fur
A Pile Fabric Made To Simulate Animal Fur. May Be Woven Or Knit In A Variety Of
Fibers Although Acrylic And Modacrylic Are Most Common.
Faux Leather
A Fabric Made To Imitate Animal Leather . Often A Polyurethane Laminate.
Faux Linen
A Fabric Made With Slubbed Yarns To Imitate Linen. Usually Inexpensive, Easy Car
e Fabrics.
Faux Shearling
Fabrics Made To Imitate Shearling- The Pelt Of A Sheep With The Wool In Place.
Faux Silk
A Fabric Of Manufactured Fiber, Most Commonly Polyester , With Good Drape, Luste
r And A Soft Hand To Imitate Silk.
Faux Suede
See Suede Cloth/faux Suede.
Faz-vi
A 'jacket Without Sleeves'. Possibly The Same Kind Of Garment As Fatuhi (q.v.).
Feed Roller; Feed Roll
A Roller That Forwards A Yarn To A Subsequent Processing Or Take-up Stage.
Fellmongering
The Process Of Pulling Wool From Sheep Skins. (see Also Skin Wool.): Felt, A Tex
tile Fabric Characterized By The Entangled Condition Of Most, Or All, Of The Fib
res Of Which It Is Composed. Three Classes Of Felt Can Be Distinguished:, (a) Fa
brics With A Woven Or Knitted Structure;, (b) Pressed Felt, Which Is Formed From
A Web Or Batt Containing Animal Hair Or Wool Consolidated By The Application Of
Heat And Mechanical Action That Causes The Constituent Fibres To Mat Together;,
(c) Needlefelt.
Felt
1 A Nonwoven Fabric Made Directly From Fibers Bound Together With Heat, Moisture
And Mechanical Pressure . Usually Some Wool Or Animal Hair Is Used. 2. A Woven
Fabric That Has Been Subjected To A Heavy Fulling Process Which Compresses And S
hrinks The Fabric Through Heat And Pressure Hiding The Weave And Entangling The
Fibers.
Felting
The Matting Together Of Fibres During Processing Or Wear (see Milling (fabric Fi
nishing)).
Fiberfill
Fiber Batting Used As A Backing In A Quilted Fabric Or In A Sandwich With Other
Fabrics . Used In Outerwear, Bedspreads.
Fibre
(1) Textile Raw Material Generally., (2) A Unit Of Matter Characterized By Flexi
bility, Fineness, And High Ratio Of Length To Thickness.
Fibre (flax)
|Flax Cultivated Mainly For Fibre Production As Distinct From That Cultivated Fo
r Linseed-oil Production.
Fibre Extent
See Fibre Length
Fibre Length
(a) Crimped Length, The Distance Between The Ends Of A Fibre When Substantially
Freed From External Restraint, Measured With Respect To Its General Axis Of Orie
ntation., (b) Fibre Extent, The Distance Between Two Planes Which Just Enclose A
Fibre Without Intercepting It, Each Plane Being Perpendicular To The Direction
Of The Yarn Or Other Assembly Of Which The Fibre Forms A Part., (c) Staple Lengt
h, A Quantity By Which A Sample Of Fibrous Raw Material Is Characterized As Rega
rds Its Technically Most Important Fibre Length., Note: The Staple Length Of Woo
l Is Usually Taken As The Length Of The Longer Fibres In A Hand Prepared Tuft Or
'staple' In Its Naturally Crimped And Wavy Condition (see Crimp). With Cotton,
On The Other Hand, The Staple Length Corresponds Very Closely To The Modal Or Mo
st Frequent Length Of The Fibres When Measured In A Straightened Condition., (d)
Span Length, The Extent Exceeded By A Stated Proportion Of Cotton Fibres, e.g.,
2.5% Span Length Is The Length Exceeded By Only 2.5% Of Fibres By Number.
Fibre Ultimate
One Of The Unit Botanical Cells Into Which Leaf And Bast Fibres Can Be Disintegr
ated.
Fibre, Man-made
A Fibre Manufactured By Man As Distinct From A Fibre That Occurs Naturally.
Fibre, Regenerated
A Man-made Fibre Produced From A Naturally Occurring Fibre-forming Polymer By A
Process That Includes Regeneration Of The Original Polymer Structure.
Fibre, Synthetic
A Man-made Fibre Produced From A Polymer Built Up By Man From Chemical Elements
Or Compounds, In Contrast To Fibres Made By Man From Naturally Occurring Fibre-f
orming Polymers.
Fibrid
A Netted Filamentary Or Fibrillar Structure, Substantially Longer In One Dimensi
on Than In The Other Two That Exhibits A Capacity For Mechanical Entanglement Wi
th Other Structures And Much Higher Water-holding Capacity Than Fibres Produced
By Conventional Spinning Means. Fibrids Are Used As Bonding Elements In The Prod
uction Of Wet-laid Synthetic Papers.
Fibrillae
Specks Visible On The Surface Of Silk Yarns.
Fibrillated
A Finish Which Causes Tiny Fibrils Or Fibrous Elements To Be Spilt From The Fibe
rs And Protrude From The Surface Of The Fabric. Results In A Frosted, Hazy, Laun
dered Appearance And A Soft Hand. Common On Lyocell Fabrics.
Fibrillated Yarn
A Yarn Produced By The Process Of Fibrillation.
Fibrillated-film Fibre
Staple Fibre Produced By Cutting, Chopping Or Stretch-breaking Fibrillated Yarn
Or Fibrillated Film Tow.
Fibrillated-film Tow
An Assembly Of Fibrillated Textile Films
Fibrillated-film Yarn
Yarn Produced From Fibrillating Film That Has Been Converted Into A Longitudinal
ly Fibrillated Structure (cf. Polymer Tape).
Fibrillating Film
A Polymer Film In Which Molecule Orientation Has Been Induced By Stretching To S
uch A Degree That It Is Capable Of Being Converted Into Yarn Or Twine By Manipul
ation, E.g., By Twisting Under Tension Which Results In The Formation Of A Longi
tudinally Split Structure (split Fibre).
Fibrillating Roller
A Pinned Roller Used For Fibrillation.
Fibrillation
The Process Of Splitting A Longitudinally Oriented Textile Film Or Tape Into A N
etwork Interconnected Fibres., Note: Processes For Producing Fibrillation May Be
Divided Into Two Groups:, (a) Those Producing Random Splitting To Give A Relati
vely Coarse Network, E.g., Twisting, And, (b) Those Producing Controlled Splitti
ng To Give A Relatively Fine Network E.g., By Rapidly Rotating Pinned Rollers.
Fibroin
The Part Of A Silk Thread Remaining After The Gum Has Been Discharged.
Fichu
Large Neckerchief At The End Of The 18th Century That Was Worn Around The Neck A
nd Shoulders Together With The Robe ? L'anglaise.
Figue
A Fibre From The Leaf Of The Plant Furcraea Macrophylla.
Figured Velvet
A Velvet Fabric With A Design In Relief Created By Cutting Or Pressing Of The Pi
le..
Filament
A Fibre Of Indefinite Length
Filament Blend Yarn
A Filament Yarn Which Contains Separate Filaments Of Two Distinct Types, The Fil
aments Being More Or Less Randomly Blended Over The Cross-section Of The Yarn.
Filament Yarn
A Yam Composed Of One Or More Filaments That Run Essentially The Whole Length Of
The Yarn. Yams Of One Or More Filaments Are Usually Referred To As Monofilament
Or Multifilament Respectively.
Filamentation
A Fibrous Or Hairy Appearance Due To Broken Filaments On The Surface Of A Yarn P
ackage Or Fabric.
Filler (usa)
A Synonym, Used In North America, For Weft Yams.
Filler Fabric.
A Rubber-coated Cross-woven Fabric Which Is Placed Around The Bead Section Assem
bly Of A Tyre And Serves To Reinforce The Join Between Apex And Casing Plies. (i
n All-metallic Radial-ply Tyres This Filler Often Consists Of A Ply Of Wire Cord
s)
Filling
(1) Non-substantive And Generally Insoluble Materials, Such As China Clay, Gypsu
m, Etc., Added To Fabrics Together With Starches Or Gums During Finishing To Add
Weight Or To Modify Their Appearance And Handle., Note 1: This Term Is Usually
Applied Only To Cellulosic Textiles (see Also Loading). Finishes In Which Starch
es Or Gums Are Used Without The Addition Of Insoluble Materials Are Sometimes Re
ferred To As 'fillings' But Are More Correctly Described As 'assisted Finishes'.
, Note 2..the Equivalent Term In North America Is 'filler'., (2) A Synonym, Used
In North America, For Weft Yams (see Weft)., (3) See Wadding Thread.
Finish
A Term Used Broadly In The Paint, Paper, Printing Ink, Leather, Plastics And Tex
tile Industries To Include The Added Materials, The Finishing Processes Employed
, And The Final Result., (1) A Substance Or Mixture Of Substances Added To A Sub
strate At Any Stage In The Process To Impart Desired Properties., (2) The Type O
f Process, Physical Or Chemical, Applied To A Substrate To Produce A Desired Eff
ect., (3) Such Properties, E.g., Smoothness, Drape, Lustre, Gloss Or Crease Resi
stance Produced By (1) And/or (2) Above., (4) The State Of The Substrate As It L
eaves A Previous Process., (5) The Quality Or Appearance Of A Paint Or Printing-
ink Film., (6) To Apply Or Produce A Finish
Finish
Perfection With Which The Garment / Fabric Is Completed.
Firm
Refers To A Fabric With A Relatively Solid, Compact Texture, Good Body And Reduc
ed Drape.
Fishnet
A Wide, Coarse, Relatively Heavy Mesh Used In Apparel And Trimming.
Fixation Accelerator
A Product Added To A Finishing Formulation To Speed Up, Or Lower The Temperature
Required For, Chemical Reaction.
Flame Resistant
Refers To A Fabric Which Will Burn Only When The Source Of The Flame Remains Lit
, And Will Quickly Self Extinguish When The Source Is Removed. Standards For Fla
me Resistance Are Generally Set According To The End Use Of The Fabric. Flame Re
sistance May Be The Result Of The Nature Of The Fiber Or Of A Chemical Finish Pu
t On The Fabric.
Flame Stitch
A Zig Zag Design That Suggests A Flame.
Flannel
An All-wool Fabric Of Plain Or Twill Weave With A Soft Handle. It May Be Slightl
y Milled And Raised.
Flannel
A Light To Medium Weight Woven Fabric With A Soft, Slightly Napped Surface . Exp
ensive Flannels Of Wool And Wool Blends Are Usually Napped And Fulled Whereas Le
ss Expensive Flannels Of Cotton And Other Fibers Are Usually Just Napped.
Flannelette
A Fabric Made From Cotton Warp And Soft-spun Cotton Weft, The Fabric Being Subse
quently Raised On Both Sides To Give An Imitation Of The True Woollen Flannel. T
he Weave May Be Plain, Plain With Double-end Warp, Or Twill., Note 1: It May Be
Woven Grey And Dyed Or Printed, Or It May Be Woven From Dyed Yarns., Note 2.. Fi
bres Other Than Cotton Are Sometimes Present In The Weft Yarn. If These Exceed 7
% They Are Named In The Description, E.g., Cotton-rayon Flannelette.
Flannelette
A Lightweight Fabric Usually Of Cotton With A Nap On One Side.
Flash Curing
See Curing
Flash Spinning
A Modification Of The Accepted Dry-spinning Method In Which A Solution Of A Poly
mer Is Extruded At A Temperature Well Above The Boiling Point Of The Solvent Suc
h That On Emerging From The Spinneret Evaporation Occurs So Rapidly That The Ind
ividual Filaments Are Disrupted Into A Highly Fibrillar Form.
Flash-spun Fabric
A Nonwoven Formed From The Fine Fibrillation Of A Film By The Rapid Evaporation
Of Solvent And Subsequent Bonding During Extrusion.
Flat Fabric
A Two-dimensional Woven Or Knitted Fabric That Has No Pile Loops.
Flat Knitting Machine
A Weft-knitting Machine Having Straight Needle Beds Carrying Independently Opera
ted Latch Needles., Note 1: Rib Machines (v-type) Have Two Needle Beds, Which Ar
e Opposed To Each Other In Inverted-v Formation., Note 2: Purl Machines Have Two
Needle Beds Horizontally Opposed In The Same Plane.
Flat Metal Yarn
A Yarn Consisting Of One Or More Continuous Lengths Of Metal Strip Or Incorporat
ing One Or More Continuous Length(s) As A Major Component., Note1: A Notable Exa
mple Is A Singles Metal Yarn In Banknotes, Which May Be O.50mm (0.020in.) Wide A
nd 0.08 Mm (0.003 In.) Thick. For This Purpose, It Must Be Without Twist, I.e.,
Flat Throughout Its Length In The Banknote. Analysis Of The Metal Is Proof Of Th
e Authenticity Of A Banknote., Note2: Twist Inserted In Flat Metal Yarns May For
m Irregular Facets, Which Reflect Light Accordingly To Give Decorative Effects I
n Fabrics
Flat Screen Printed
In Screen Printing A Separate Screen Is Created For Each Color . The Open Mesh P
art Of The Screen Corresponds To The Area To Be Printed In That Color. The Areas
Where Color Is Not To Pass Through Are Blocked. Dye Paste Is Forced Through The
Open Mesh Area With A Squeegee. The Fabric Is Then Moved Or The Screen Replaced
To Allow Printing Of The Next Color. In Flat Screen Printing The Screens Are In
The Form Of Flat Panels, The Width Of Which Is The Same As The Repeat Of The Pa
ttern. Flat Screen Printing Allows For Greater Flexibility Than Rotary Printing
As The Panel Size Can Often Be Adjusted To Various Repeat Sizes.
Flat Setting
The Setting Of Fabric At Open-width. The Term Is Particularly Used In The Finish
ing Of Woven Wool Fabrics, Where Setting Is Usually Effected By Steaming Under P
ressure.
Flat Yarn
(1) Descriptive Of Full Drawn Continuous-filament Yarns Substantially Without Tw
ist And Untextured (see Also Twistless Yarn.), (2) A Synonym For Straw
Flax
(1) Plants Of The Species Linum Usitatissimum Cultivated For The Production Of F
ibre, Or Seed And Fibre., (2) Fibre Extracted From Flax Plants.
Flax Fibre Bundle
One Of The Aggregates Of Ultimate Fibre That Run From The Base Of The Stem Up To
The Top Of The Branches Of Flax Straw. They Are Each Composed Of Large Numbers
Of Ultimate Fibres Overlapping Each Other.
Flax Fibre Strands
Flax Fibres After Removal From The Plant, Consisting In The Cross-section Of Mor
e Than One Ultimate Fibre.
Flax Tow
Short Flax Fibres That Are Removed During The Scutching Or Hackling Processes:,
(a) Rug Tow: Short Flax Fibre Removed During Scutching And Containing Extraneous
Woody Material;, (b) Re-scutched Tow: Short Fibre Which Has Been Cleaned In A T
ow-scutching Apparatus, (c) Machine Tow: Short Fibre Which Has Been Removed From
Scutched Long Flax During The Hackling Process.
Flax Yarn Bundle
The Standard Length By Which Wet-spun Flax Yarns Are Bought And Sold. The 'bundl
e' Traditionally Contained 60000 Yards (about 55000 M) Of Yarn.
Flax, Green (obsolescent)
Scutched Flax Produced From Deseeded Straw Without Any Intermediate Treatment Su
ch As Retting.
Flax, Line (obsolescent)
Hackled Flax
Flax-spun
A Term Applied To Staple Yam That Has Been Prepared And Spun On Machinery Origin
ally Designed For Spinning Yarns From Flax.
Fleece
A Fabric With A Thick, Soft Nap Or Pile Resembling Sheep's Wool. Commonly A Knit
Which Has Been Brushed And Sheared But May Be Woven.
Fleece
The Woolly Covering Of A Sheep Or Similar Animal.
Fleece Wool
Any Wool As Shorn From A Living Sheep. The Term Is In Use To Distinguish This Wo
ol From Other Forms Such As Skin Wool.
Fleecy
Resembling A Wool Fleece In Appearance And Handle, Or Descriptive Of Fabrics Hav
ing A Fine, Soft, Open, And Raised Structure.
Fleecy Fabric (weft-knitted)
A Weft-knitted Fabric Composed Of Three Separate Yarns; A Ground Yarn Of Normal
Count, A Finer Binding Yarn, And A Thicker Fleecy Yarn Which Is Held Into The Fa
bric At Close Intervals By The Binding Yarn. The Fleecy Yarn Appears On The Back
Of Plain-knitted Fabric And Presents An Ideal Surface For Brushing Or Raising.
Flock
A Material Obtained By Reducing Textile Fibres To Fragments As By Cutting, Teari
ng, Or Grinding. There Are Two Main Usages:, (a) Stuffing Flock: Fibres In Entan
gled Small Masses Or Beads, Usually Of Irregular Broken Fibres, Obtained As A By
-product, As, For Example, In The Milling, Cropping, Or Raising Of Wool Fabric,
And Mainly Used For Stuffing, Padding, Or Upholstery., (b) Coating Flock: Cut Or
Ground Fibres Used For Application To Yarn, Fabric, Paper, Wood, Metal, Or Wall
Surfaces Prepared With An Adhesive (see Also Electrostatic Flocking).
Flock Printed
A Method Of Printing Resulting In Short Fibers, Rather Than Color, Being Applied
In A Design To The Surface Of The Fabric . The Fabric May Be Printed With An Ad
hesive And The Fiber Dusted Onto It, Or The Fibers May Be Contained In The Adhes
ive, Or The Fibers May Be Applied Electrostatically To Hold Them Erect.
Flock Printing.
A Method Of Fabric Ornamentation In Which Adhesive Is Printed On And Then Finely
Chopped Fibres Are Applied All Over By Means Of Dusting-on, An Air-blast, Or El
ectrostatic Attraction. The Fibres Adhere Only To The Printed Areas And Are Remo
ved From The Unprinted Areas By Mechanical Action.
Flocked
A Method Of Applying Short Fibers Rather Than Color To The Entire Surface Of The
Fabric . The Fabric May Be Printed With An Adhesive And The Fiber Dusted, Onto
It ,or The Fibers May Be Contained In The Adhesive Or The Fibers May Be Applied
Electrostatically To Hold Them Erect.
Flocked Carpets
Carpets Manufactured By Applying Short Chopped Lengths Of Fibre (flock) To An Ad
hesive-coated Backing Fabric. The Application Is Usually Carried Out Electrostat
ically.
Flocks (wool)
Waste Fibres Obtained From Wool During The Different Finishing Processes.
Floral
Refers To Design Motifs Dominated By Flowers.
Flounce
A Band Of Cloth Or Lace Fluting Around A Garment To Which It Is Attached Only By
Its Upper Edge.
Fluff
Lint Or Fluff That Has Accumulated On A Knitting Machine And Become Incorporated
In The Fabric.
Fluff Ball
See Lint Ball
Fluidity
A Measure Of The Ease With Which A Fluid Flows; Numerically The Reciprocal Of Vi
scosity. The Unit Of Fluidity Is The Reciprocal Pascal Second (pa-1 S-1)., Note:
The Fluidity Of Dilute Solutions Of Polymers Is Inversely Related To The Polyme
r Molecular Weight And, For Certain Fibre-solvent Systems, May Be Used As An Ind
icator Of Polymer Degradation.
Fluorescent Brightener
See Optical Brightener
Fluorescent Whitening Agent
See Optical Brightener
Fluorofibre (fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Linear Macromolecules Made From Fluor
ocarbon Aliphatic Monomers.
Fly
Fibres That Fly Out Into The Atmosphere During Processing.
Flyer Spinning
A Spinning System In Which Yarn Passes Through A Revolving Flyer Leg Guide On To
The Package. The Yarn Is Wound-on By Making The Flyer And Spinning Package Rota
te At Slightly Different Speeds
Flyshot Loom
A Multi-piece Loom For Weaving Narrow Fabrics In Which Each Shuttle Is Knocked T
hrough The Open Shed By Means Of A Peg Fixed In A Slide. The Term Is Also Someti
mes Applied To Single-head Narrow-fabric Looms.
Foam Bonding
A Method Of Making Nonwoven Fabrics In Which A Fibre Web Or Batt Is Treated By T
he Application Of A Liquid In The Form Of A Foam.
Foam Laminated
A Layer Of Foam Usually Polyurethane, Pvc Or Latex Is Bonded To The Fabric With
Adhesive Or Fused To The Fabric With Heat. Generally Results In A "breathable" F
abric. Used For Footwear , Outerwear And Carpet Backings.
Foambacked Fabric
A Combined Fabric Usually Having Two Layers, One Of Which Is Of Cellular Plastic
s Material.
Fold
See Folded Yarn
Folded Yarn;
A Yarn In Which Two Or More Single Yarns Are Twisted Together (fold) In One Oper
ation, E.g., Two-fold Yarn, Three-fold Yarn, Etc., Note: In Some Sections Of The
Textile Industry, E.g., The Marketing Of Hand-knitting Yams, These Yarns Are Re
ferred To As Two-ply, Three-ply, Etc.
Folk Weave
A Term Applied To Any Construction Which, When Used In Loosely Woven Fabrics Mad
e From Coarse Yams, Gives A Rough And Irregular Surface Effect. Coloured Yarns A
re Commonly Used To Produce Weftway And/or Warpway Stripes.
Fontange
A Bow On A Ladies' Headdress Worn In The Late 17th And Early 18th Centuries, Nam
ed After The Duchesse De Fontanges. The Term Is Often Incorrectly Applied To The
Whole Headdress.
Forehead Cloth Or Cross Cloth
16th And 17th Century Term For A Band Covering The Front Of A Woman's Head. It W
as Often Triangular.
Forte Of A Garment
Means The Strong Point Of The Garment
Foulard
See Padding Mangle
Foulard
1. A Lightweight, Lustrous, Soft 2x2 Twill Fabric Usually Found Printed . Used I
n Neckties Scarves Dresses. 2. Small All Over Geometric Print Design Usually On
A Plain Solid Ground Typical Of Those Found On Neckties.
French Clean
See Dry Clean
French Terry
A Knit Jersey With Loops On One Side. Sometimes Napped To Make Fleece.
Frey
Threads Which Come Out From The Fabric During Handling.
Friction Calendering
See Calendaring
Friction Spinning
A Method Of Open-end Spinning Which Uses The External Surface Of Two Rotating Ro
llers To Collect And Twist Individual Fibres Into A Yarn. At Least One Of The Ro
llers Is Perforated So That Air Can Be Drawn Through Its Surface To Facilitate F
ibre Collection. The Twisting Occurs Near The Nip Of The Rollers And, Because Of
The Relatively Large Difference Between The Yam And Roller Diameters, High Yarn
Rotational Speeds Are Achieved By The Friction Between The Roller Surface And T
he Yarns.
Friction-twisting
The Generation Of False-twist ( See False-twisting) By A Device In Which The Yar
n Lies In Contact With One Or More Surfaces Of High Friction Driven In A Directi
on At Substantial Angle To The Yarn Axis. In Practice, Friction Disks, Belts Or
Bushes Are Commonly Used
Frieze
A Pile Fabric With The Loops Left Uncut . Usually The Loops Are Sheared To Vario
us Heights To Form A Pattern. Used Widely For Upholstery And Slipcovers.
Frisons
The First Waste Obtained In The Process Of Reeling Silk Cocoons. It Is Composed
Of The Tangled Beginning Of The Silk Filament That Is Removed By The Reeler Up T
o The Point When The Filament Begins To Reel Properly.
Fugitive Tint
A Colorant For Application To Textile Materials For Their Identification During
Handling. The Colorant Must Be Removed Easily During Normal Textile Scouring Or
Dyeing Procedures.
Fuji
A Lightweight, Plain Weave Fabric Originally Of Silk But Now Usually Of Polyeste
r Bi-component Yarn Which Gives The Appearance Of A Subtle Texture On The Surfac
e . Used In Blouses, Dresses.
Fujiette
A Medium Weight Fabric With A Filament Yarn Warp And A Spun Yarn Weft . Usually
It Has A Fine Crosswise Rib. Commonly Found In Rayon And Blends Of Acetate And R
ayon . Used In Blouses, Dresses.
Fulled
See Milled/fulled.
Full-fashioned; Fully-fashioned
Terms Applied To Knitted Fabrics And Garments That Are Shaped Wholly Or In Part
By Widening And/or Narrowing By Loop Transference To Increase Or Decrease The Nu
mber Of Wales.
Fusibles
Refers To A Fabric, Usually A Nonwoven, That Can Be Bonded To Another Fabric Wit
h Heat And Pressure . Used As Interlinings To Give Body And Shape To A Fabric.
Gabardine
A Tightly Woven Durable Twill, Usually 2x2 Right Handed, With A Distinct Twill L
ine. Common Used In Men's And Women's Trousers, Rainwear And A Variety Of Other
Uses.
Gait (flax)
A Large Handful Of Loose, Pulled Flax, Stood Up On End In A Cone Form To Dry.
Gait (lace Machines)
(1) The Distance Between The Centres Of Adjacent Comb Blades., (2) A Measure Of
The Distance Over Which A Thread Is Moved,
Gait (weaving)
A Full Repeat Of The Draft In The Healds, Or In The Case Of Jacquard, In One Com
plete Row Of The Harness
Gait; Gait Up (weaving)
General Terms Used To Describe The Positioning Of The Warp, Healds, And Reed In
A Loom, In Readiness For Weaving. Where Drop Wires Are Mounted On The Warp Durin
g Warp Preparation, Gaiting Also Includes The Positioning Of The Drop Wires.
Gaiting (knitting)
See Gating (knitting)
Galants Or Gallants
Small Ribbon Bows Which Were Worn In The Mid 17th Century In The Hair And Attach
ed To The Garments In Various Places.
Galatea
A Durable, Warp Faced, Left Handed Twill Fabric Often Found In White And Stripes
. Used In Children's Wear, Uniforms.
Galloon
Lace.
Gamla Buti
A Popular Motif In Textile Design In India, Consisting Of Flowers Of Different K
inds Growing In A Flowerpot, Neatly Arranged.
Gamma Value
The Mean Number Of Xanthate Groups Per 100 Glucose Residues In Cellulose Xanthat
e.
Garters
Ribbon Tied Around The Leg To Hold Up The Stockings.
Gas
See Singe
Gas Fume Fading
An Irreversible Change In Hue Which Occurs When Textiles, Particularly Cellulose
Ethanoate ( Acetate) And Triethanoate (triacetate) Dyed With Certain Blue Anthr
aquinone Disperse Dyes Are Exposed To Oxides Of Nitrogen Which Arise From, For E
xample, Gas Or Storage Heaters.
Gassed Yarn
A Yarn That Has Been Passed Through A Flame Or Over A Heated Element To Remove S
urface Fibres.
Gating (knitting)
The Relative Alignment Of 2 Sets Of Knitting Elements E.g., Needles, On Knitting
Machines. Two Forms Of Needle Gating (rib And Interlock) Are Common And May Be
Interchangeable On The Same Machine. Types Of Gating Are: (a) Interlock Gating:
Interlock Gaiting (knitting) - The Opposed Alignment Of One Set Of Needles With
The Other On A Knitting Machine. (b) Purl Gating : Purl Gaiting (knitting), The
Opposed Alignment Of Tricks Of Two Needle Beds Lying In The Same Plane, On A Ma
chine Equipped With Double-headed Needles. (c) Rib Gating : Rib Gaiting (knittin
g), The Alternate Alignment Of One Set Of Needles With The Other On A Machine Eq
uipped With Two Sets Of Needles Arranged To Knit Rib Fabrics. Also Termed Gaitin
g
Gauze
A Light-weight, Open-texture Fabric Produced In Plain Weave Or Simple Leno Weave
.
Gauze Weaving
A Term Commonly Used As A Synonym For Leno Weaving; Strictly, A Method Of Produc
ing The Simpler Types Of Light-weight Fabric By Leno Weaving.
Gauze/cheesecloth
A Loosely Woven, Thin, Sheer, Plain Weave Fabric Usually Cotton.
Gear-crimped Yarn
A Form Of Textured Yarn In Which The Heated Yarn Is Passed Between A Pair Of Gea
r Wheels Or Through Some Similar Device.
Gel Dyeing
A Continuous Tow Dyeing Method In Which Soluble Dyes Are Applied To Wet-spun Fib
res (e.g., Acrylic Or Modacrylic Fibres) In The Gel State (i.e., After Extrusion
And Coagulation, But Before Drawing And Drying).
Genappe Yarn
A Gassed Worsted Yarn. (genappe In Belgium.)
Generic Name
When Used Here A Name To Distinguish Different Classes Of Textile Fibre. For Nat
ural Fibres, Distinguishing Attribute Is The Fibre Source; For Man-made Fibres (
see Fibre, Man-made) Chemical Difference, Which Often Results In Distinctive Pro
perty Differences, Is The Main Basis For Classification: Other Attributes Are In
cluded Where Necessary. Generic Names Are Normally Used As Adjectives; Are Descr
iptive Of The Nature Of The Fibre Or Filament Components Of The Associated Objec
t (yarn, Top, Sliver, Fabric, Garment, etc). The Attributes Used For Specificati
on Of The Generic Names Of Man-made Fibres Are However Not Necessarily Identical
With The Attributes Used For Naming Chemical Molecules., The International Orga
nization For Standardization Has Published, In Iso 2076, A List Of The Generic N
ames And Definitions Of The Different Categories Of Man-made Fibres At Present M
anufactured On Industrial Scale For Textile And Other Purposes. These Definition
s And Categories Are Used Throughout This Publication Where Possible.. Other Lis
ts Of Fibre Names Have Been Produced In Connection With Textile Labelling Legisl
ation (e.g., In The EC Textile Labelling Directive And The U.S. Federal Trade Co
mmission's Textile Fiber Products Identification Act).
Geometric
Refers To Designs Dominated By Relatively Simple, Clearly Defined Geometric Shap
es.
Georgette
A Lightweight, Plain Weave, Crepe Fabric With A Pebbly Texture And Slightly Rasp
y Hand. Uses High Twist Yarns Which Alternate Between S And Z Twist Every Thread
Or 2 In Both Warp And Weft . Used For Blouses, Dresses.
Georgette
A Fine, Light-weight, Open-texture Fabric, Usually In A Plain Weave, Made From C
repe Yarns, Usually Having Two S-twisted And Two Z-twisted Yarns Alternately In
Both Warp And Weft.
Geotextile
A Textile Material Used By Civil Engineers As A Component Of Earthworks.
Ghagho
A Woman's Dress, Closely Related To The Abbo (q.v.). The Skirt Part Of The Abagh
o Was Often More Flared Than That Of An Abbo, The Ample Gathers At Either Side O
f The Waist Lending It Peculiar Gracefulness When The Wearer Moved.
Ghaghra
Skirt, Usually With A Great Deal Of Flare. The Simple Ghaghras Have Only One Ver
tical Seam, Which Turns The Cloth Or Ghaghra-pata Into A Tube, Fastened With A D
rawstring Passing Through A Long, Narrow Slot At The Waist. Flared Ghaghras Are
Made Up Of, Several Triangular Gored Pieces Stitched Together.
Gherdar
Flared With An Ample Skirt, As In A Gherdarjama.
Ghundi
Loop; Generally Used To Hold The Little Button-like Boss Called The Tukma.
Ghutanna
A Short Paoan (q. V.), Worn By Men, Tight And Ending Just Below The Knees. Much
Favoured In 19th Century Sikh Punjab.
Gigging
The Process Of Raising A Nap On Fabrics By Means Of A Teazle Machine.
Gill Box
A Drafting Machine, Used In Worsted Processing, In Which The Motion Of The Fibre
s Is In Part Controlled By Pins Fixed On Moving Bars (pinned Fallers).
Gilling
A System Of Drafting In Which The Direction Of The Fibres Relative To One Anothe
r In A Sliver Is Controlled By Pins.
Gin Cut Cotton
Cotton That Has Been Damaged In Ginning By The Cutting Saws To The Extent That I
ts Value Is Reduced.
Gingham
Light To Medium Weight, Plain Weave Fabric. It Is Usually A Cotton Or Cotton Ble
nd Yarn Dye In A Color And White Or 2 Color Check Design.
Gingham
A Plain-weave, Light-weight Cotton Fabric, Approximately Square In Construction,
In Which Dyed Yarns, Or White And Dyed Yarns, Form Small Checks Or, Less Usuall
y, Narrow Stripes., Note: If Fibres Other Than Cotton Are Used The Term Should B
e Suitably Qualified (e.g. Viscose Rayon Gingham).
Ginning
A Process That Removes Cotton Fibres (lint) From The Seed.
Glass (fibre)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Made Of Mixed Silicates.
Glaze
To Produce A Smooth, Glossy, Plane Surface On A Fabric By Heat, Heavy Pressure,
Or Friction., Note: Glazing May Be Produced Intentionally, E.g., By Friction Cal
endering, Or As A Fault.
Glazed
A Finish Resulting In A Smooth, Glossy Surface On The Fabric. Usually The Fabric
Is First Treated With Resin, Wax, Starch Or Other Substances Then Calendered.
Glen Plaid ( Also Called Glen Urquhart)
A Popular Scottish District Check Made Of Elements Of Houndstooth And Guard's Ch
eck Often With A Fine Line Overplaid In A Contrasting Color.
Gossypium.
The Generic Name Of The Cotton Plant.
Gota
Narrow Ribbon Made Of 'gold' Or 'silver' Thread.
Graft Polymerization
The Production Of A Branched Macro-molecule, With A High Molecular Weight Backbo
ne Of One Polymeric Species, To Which A Second Polymer Is Attached (grafted) At
Intervals.
Grain
Another Word Used For The Length Wise (weft Yarn) Or Cross-wise (warp Yarn) Thre
ads Of The Fabric.
Grass Bleaching
A Process For Bleaching Linen Cloth After It Has Been Washed By Exposing It, Whi
le Spread Our On A Grass Lawn Or Field Known As A Green, To The Action Of The El
ements.
Grassing (crofting)
See Grass Bleaching
Grease Wool
Sheep's Wool Still Containing The Natural Grease.
Greasy Piece
A Piece Of Woollen Fabric As It Comes From The Loom
Greasy Wool; Grease Wool
Sheep's Wool Still Containing The Natural Grease.
Green Flax (obsolescent)
Scutched Flax Produced From Deseeded Straw Without Any Intermediate Treatment Su
ch As Retting.
Greige
See Grey Goods
Greige
Fabric That Has Not Been Bleached, Dyed Or Finished After Production. If Woven S
ometimes Called Loomstate.
Grenadine
A Leno Weave Fabric With High Twist Yarns Often With Woven In Stripes, Checks Or
Other Patterns . Used For Dresses, Blouses Curtains.
Grey Goods
Woven Or Knitted Fabrics As They Leave The Loom Or Knitting Machine, I.e., Befor
e Any Bleaching, Dyeing Or Finishing Treatment Has Been Given To Them. Some Of T
hese Fabrics, However, May Contain Dyed Or Finished Yams., Note: In Some Countri
es, Particularly In The North American Continent, The Term Greige Is Used. For W
oven Goods, The Term Loomstate Is Frequently Used As An Alternative. In The Line
n And Lace Trades, The Term Brown Goods Is Used.
Grey Scale
A Series Of Pairs Of Neutrally Coloured Chips, Showing Increasing Contrast Withi
n Pairs, Used Visually To Assess Contrasts Between Other Pairs Of Patterns: For
Example The Iso (international Organization For Standardization) Grey Scales Com
prise Two Series Of Chips Against Which The Magnitude Of The Change In Colour Of
A Specimen Submitted To A Fastness Test And Of Staining Of Adjacent Uncoloured
Material Can Be Visually Assessed And Rated On A 1-5 Scale.
Grinding (rag)
A Local Term For Pulling.
Grist
See Count
Gros Point
Also Known As Point De Venise And Venetian Lace; Very Expensive Heavy Lace From
Venice, The Most Fashionable Material For Cravats Among Aristocrats And Royalty
In The 17th Century. The Lace Was Usually Held Together With A Ribbon Or Cravat
String, Or Sewn Into A Pre-formed Bow And Fall Because It Was Too Heavy To Be Ti
ed Accurately.
Grosgrain
A Firm, Tightly Woven Fabric With A Heavy, Pronounced, Crosswise Rib. Used For N
eckties, Millinery, Trim . The Term Often Describes Ribbon But May Be A Full Wid
th Fabric As Well.
Grospoint
A Durable, Uncut Loop Pile Fabric Used Mainly For Upholstery.
Guard Hairs
Fibres Which Project Beyond The Under-coat Of Some Mammals. They Are Usually Coa
rser Than Under-coat Fibres.
Guipure Lace
A Needlepoint Lace Made With A Heavy Buttonhole Stitch And With The Pattern On A
Coarse Mesh Or Held Together With Connecting Threads.
Gum Waste
Waste Comprising All Broken Silk Threads That Have Been Discarded During Reeling
, Or At The Inspection Of The Skeins, And That Have Not Undergone Any Further Pr
ocessing.
Gum-sericin
A Gelatinous Protein, Usually Comprising 20% To 30% By Mass Of Raw Silk, Cementi
ng The Two Fibroin Filaments (brins) In A Silk Fibre (bave).
Gunny
A Strong, Coarse, Plain Weave Fabric Usually Of Jute . Similar To Burlap But Hea
vier And Coarser. Used For Baling And Sacks.
Habit
In The 17th Century It Meant For Men The Suit Of Clothes All In The Same Cloth O
r Colour. The Court Habit In The 17th And 18th Centuries Meant Men's Clothes, An
d The Grand Habit Women's, Worn Only At Court And At Festivities Where The Court
Was Present.
Hackling (flax)S
A Process In Which Stricks Of Scutched Flax Are Combed From End To End, Both To
Remove Short Fibre, Naps (or Neps), And Non-fibrous Material, And To Sub-divide
And Parallelize The Fibre Strands.
Hair
Animal Fibre Other Than Sheep's Wool Or Silk., Note: It Is Recognized That This
Definition Implies A Distinction Between Sheep's Wool And The Covering Of Other
Animals, Notwithstanding The Similarity In Their Fibre Characteristics. Thus The
Crimped Form And The Scaly Surface Are Not Confined To Sheep's Wool. It Seems D
esirable In The Textile Industry, However, To Avoid Ambiguity By Confining The T
erm Wool To The Covering Or Sheep And To Have Available A General Term For Other
Fibres Of Animal Origin. Normally The Less Widely Used Fibres Are Known By Name
E.g., Alpaca, Mohair, Etc., But Collectively They Should Be Classed As Hair. A
Difficulty Arises When It Is Desired To Distinguish Between The Fibres Of The Un
dercoat And The Remainder Of The Fleece; For Instance, Between The Soft Short Ca
mel Hair Used For Blankets And The Coarse Long Camel Hair Used For Belting. The
Term Wool Is Sometimes Used For The Shorter Fibre, Qualified By The Name Of The
Animal, E.g., Cashmere Wool.
Hairy
Refers To Fabrics With A Lot Of Protruding Fibers On The Surface.
Hammered Satin
A Satin Fabric With An Allover Surface Texture That Looks Like Hammered Metal.
Handkerchief Linen
A Fine Lightweight Plain Weave Fabric Of Linen Or A Linen Blend. Used In Blouses
, Dresses
Handle; Hand (u.s.)
The Quality Of A Fabric Or Yarn Assessed By The Reaction Obtained From The Sense
Of Touch., Note: It Is Concerned With The Subjective Judgement Of Roughness, Sm
oothness, Harshness, Pliability, Thickness, Etc.
Hank
(1) A Synonym For Skein. Textile Linear Material In Coiled Form., (2) A Definite
Length Of Sliver, Slubbing, Roving, Or Yarn, E.g., In The Metric System It Is 1
000 Metres., (3) A Synonym For Count As Applied To Sliver, Slubbing, Or Roving.
Hank Sizing
The Application Of Size Solution To Yarn In Hanks.
Hard
Describing Fabrics With A Firm, Coarse Hand.
Hardening
Treatment Of Man-made Regenerated-protein Filaments So As To Render Them Complet
ely Insoluble In Cold Water And Cold Dilute Saline Solutions.
Harlequin
A Design Motif Dominated By Diamond Shapes Or Checks In 3 Or More Contrasting Co
lors As In A Harlequin Costume.
Harris Tweed
A Woolen Tweed Fabric Hand Woven On The Outer Hebrides Islands Off The Coast Of
Scotland. (harris Is One Of These Islands) Genuine Harris Tweeds Are Certified B
y The Harris Tweed Association.
Haul-off Roller; Haul-off Roll
The First Driven Roller Around Which An Extruded Yarn Passes After Leaving The S
pinneret, And Whose Surface Speed Determines The Spin-stretch Ratio.
Haute Couture
Hi-fashion Garments (of Which Only A Single Price Is Produced) It's Extravagant,
It's Irrational, It's Unique And It's Totally Unaffordable.
Head (jute)
One Of A Number Of Bunches Of Raw Jute Forming A Bale. The Heads Are Each Given
A Twist And Folded Over Before Being Made Into The Bale.
Heat Setting
The Process Of Conferring Stability Of Form Upon Fibres, Yarns, Or Fabrics, Usua
lly By Means Of Successive Heating And Cooling In Moist Or Dry Conditions.
Heat Transfer Printed
A Method Of Printing Fabric By Transferring A Design From A Paper To Fabric By P
assing Them Together Through Heated Rollers Or A Heated Press. Also Called Subli
static Printing Or Sublimation Printing.
Heather
See Melange/heather
Hemp, True
A Fine Light-coloured, Lustrous, And Strong Bast Fibre, Obtained From The Hemp P
lant, Cannabis Sativa L. , Note: The Colour And Cleanliness Vary Considerably Ac
cording To The Method Of Preparation Of The Fibre, The Lower Grades Being Dark C
ream And Containing Much Non-fibrous Matter. The Fibre Is Obtained By Retting. I
ts Principal Use Is In Twine And Cordage, But Some Of The Finer Grades Are Used
In Weaving. The Fibre Ranges In Length From 1 To 2.5m (3 To 8 ft). The Term 'hem
p' Is Often Incorrectly Used In A Generic Sense For Fibres From Different Plants
, E.g., Manila 'hemp' (abaca) From Musa Textilis Nee; Sisal 'hemp' From Agave Si
salana Perrine; Sunn 'hemp' (sunn Fibre) From Crotalaria Juncea L.
Henequen
The Fibre Obtained From The Leaf Of Agava Fourcroydes Lemaire.
Herringbone
A Broken Twill Weave In Which The Twill Line Reverses Regularly Forming Zig Zag
V's. Also Called Fishbone.
Hessen
See Barras.
Hessian
See Burlap/hessian.
High Charged System
A Method Of Dry Cleaning In Which An Oil-soluble Reagent Such As Petroleum Sulph
onate Is Added To The Solvent So That A Significant Amount Of Water Can Be Added
To Obtain A Substantially Clear Dispersion Of Water In The Solvent. In A High-c
harged System The Concentration Of Added Reagent, A So-called Detergent Is 4% Wh
ile, In A Low-charged System The Concentration Ranges From ?% To 2%.
High Count
Refers To Fabrics Woven With A Relatively High Thread Count, Resulting In A Dens
e, Tight Fabric.
High Twist
Refers To Yarn That Are Manufactured With A Relatively High Number Of Turns Per
Inch . This May Be Done To Increase The Yarn Strength Or To Give The Fabric A Cr
epey Texture Or Hand.
High/low
1. Pile Fabrics That Have Variation In Pile Height 2 A Corduroy With Wales Of 2
Or More Different Widths.
High-bulk Yarn
A Yarn That Has Been Treated Mechanically, Physically Or Chemically So As To Hav
e A Noticeably Greater Voluminosity Or Bulk.
High-speed Spinning (melt Spinning)
A Melt Spinning Process In Which Filaments Are Drawn Down And Collected At High
Speeds.
Hog Wool; Hoggett Wool
The First Clip From A Sheep Not Shorn As A Lamb., Also Termed Tag/teg Wool (obso
lescent)
Holland/shadecloth
A Plain Weave Fabric Similar To Sheeting With A Stiff Sometimes Glazed Finish .
Often Of Linen Or Cotton. Frequently Used For Shades.
Hollow Filament
A Man-made Fibre Continuous Filament Or Fibre With A Single Continuous Lumen.
Hologram
A Three Dimensional Effect Produced With A Laser That Changes With The Angle Of
View And Reflects Light In A Striking Way . Often Printed On Reflective Material
.
Homespun
A Plain Weave Fabric Loosely Woven With Coarse Uneven Yarns That Look As If They
Were Spun By Hand.
Homopolymer
A Polymer In Which The Repeating Units Are All The Same (cf. Copolymer).
Honan
A High Quality, Plain Weave Pongee Fabric Made With Wild Silk From Henan In East
ern China.
Honeycomb
A Pique Fabric With A Waffle Or Cellular Appearance. May Be Woven Or Knit.
Honeydew
The Result Of Infestation Of Growing Cotton By Aphids Of Whitefly. It Takes The
Form Of More Or Less Randomly Distributed Droplets Of Highly Concentrated Sugars
, Causing Cotton Stickiness.
Hopsack
See Basket Weave/hopsack.
Hose (narrow Fabric)
A Tubular Woven Fabric For Conveying Liquid Under Pressure., Note: Hose Is Manuf
actured In Both Unlined And Lined Forms. When Unlined, The Weave Is Plain And Th
e Material Is Generally Flax Or Hemp With A Weaving Density So Arranged That Whe
n The Fibres Swell On Wetting, The Fabric Becomes Tight Enough To Reduce Percola
tion Under Pressure To A Negligible Amount. For Lined Hose, Fibres Other Than Fl
ax Or Hemp May Be Used In A Plain Or Twill Weave. Light-weight Hose Woven From S
ynthetic Yams May Incorporate An Independent Tubular Plastic Lining, Which Is In
troduced
Hosiery
(1) Knitted Coverings For The Feet And Legs., (2) Formerly In The UK., The Term
Was Used In The Generic Sense Of All Types Of Knitted Fabrics And, Goods Made Up
Therefrom.
Hosiery Knitting Machine
A Knitting Machine For The Production Of Hosiery. Most Are Small-diameter Latch-
needle Circular Knitting Machines
Hot Drawing (synthetic Filaments And Films)
A Term Applied To The Drawing Of Synthetic Filaments Or Films With The Intention
al Application Of External Heat.
|Hot Mercerization
See Mercerization
Hottenroth Number
A Measure Of The Degree Of Ripening Of Viscose, Note: A Hottenroth Number Is Exp
ressed As The Number Of Milliliters Of 10% Ammonium Chloride Solution That It Is
Necessary To Add To A Somewhat Diluted Viscose (solution) To Induce Incipient C
oagulation Under Standard Conditions.
Houndstooth
A Pointed Broken Check Design . Most Commonly A Woven Produced With Contrasting
Yarns In Groups Or Multiples Of 4, Woven In A 2x2 Twill. Sometimes Called Dogsto
oth.
Huarizo
See Alpaca Fibre
Huckaback
A Soft Toweling Fabric With Short, Loosely Twisted Filling Floats To Aid Absorpt
ion, And A Birdseye Or Honeycomb Surface Texture . It Is Sometimes Embroidered.
Hue
That Attribute Of Colour Whereby It Is Recognized As Being Predominantly Red, Gr
een, Blue, Yellow, Violet, Brown, Bordeaux, Etc.
Hue
Is The Shades And Degrees Of Color
Hurluberlu Or Hurlupe
Appeared About 1671, A Female Hairstyle In Which Short Curls Covered The Entire
Head.
Husks (silk)
Silk Waste Remaining On Cocoons At The Bottom Of The Basin After Reeling.
Hydrolysis
The Chemical Decomposition Of A Substance By Water.
Hydrophilic
Having An Affinity For Water.
Hydrophobic
Having No Affinity For Water.
Hygral Expansion
The Reversible Changes In Length And Width Of Fabrics Containing Hygroscopic Fib
res As A Result Changes In Regain
Iaedryun
A Short Jacket, Often Richly Embroidered, Worn Mostly In Kutch And Saurashtra, I
n Combination With An Embroidered Pyjama (q.v.).
Ikat
Term Applied To The Resist-dye Process In Which Designs Are Reserved In Warp Or
Weft Yarns By Tying Off Small Bundles Of Yarn With Palm-leaf Strips Or Similar M
aterial To Prevent Penetration Of Dye. From The Indonesian Mengikat, 'to Tie' Or
'to Bind'.
Ikat
A Method Of Tie Dyeing Yarn Prior To Weaving. May Be In Warp Only (warp Ikat), W
eft Only (weft Ikat), Or Both Warp & Weft (double Ikat) .results In A Blurred Pa
ttern Effect.
Illusion
A Very Fine Sheer Net Fabric Usually Of Nylon Or Silk. Used For Veils.
Imberline
A Woven Fabric With Various Colored Stripes In The Warp Often Separated By Gold
Thread. Used In Upholstery, Drapery.
Immature Cotton
Cotton In Which The Thickening Of The Fibre Wall Is Appreciably Less Than Usual.
, Note. If Growth Conditions Are Not Favourable, Possibly As A Result Of Attack
By Disease Or Through Plant Senility, Or Occasionally Because Of The Genetic Nat
ure Of The Variety, The Secondary-wall Thickening May First Be Delayed And Then
Proceed At A Reduced Rate Or Wall Development May Cease Prematurely: The Ripened
Boil Will Contain A High Proportion Of Developed Immature Fibres
Indiennes
In The 17th And 18th Centuries The Name Given To All Eastern Painted And Printed
Cloths, Whatever Their Country Of Origin.
Indigo
A Type Of Blue Dyestuff Originally Obtained From The Indigo Plant But Now Produc
ed Synthetically. Used For Denim.
Indigo & Color
Refers To Yarn Dyed Fabrics Using A Combinations Of Indigo Dyed Yarns And Yarns
Of Other Colors Together In The Design.
Indigo & Overprinted
Refers To Printing Done On An Indigo Denim, Indigo Chambray, Or Indigo Dyed Fabr
ic.
Indigo Dyed
Refers To A Fabric Which Has Been Piece Dyed With Indigo Dye.
Indirect Warping
The Transference Of Yam From A Package Creel Onto A Swift From Which It Is Subse
quently Wound Onto A Beam.
Ingrain (filament Yarn)
Descriptive Of A Filament Yarn Composed Of Filaments Of Different Colours, The I
ngrain Effect Being Produced By The Random Exposure Of The Differently Coloured
Filaments At The Yarn Surface.
Ingrain (yarn)
Yarn Spun From A Mixture Of Fibres Of Different Colours, Where The Mixing Of Col
oured Fibres Is Carried , Out At An Early Stage., See Also Worsted Yarns, Colour
Terms
Inkle, Beggar's
A Fabric Constructed As Linsey-wolsey In The 18th And Early 19th Centuries.
Intarsia
(1) Weft-knitted Plain, Rib, Or Purl Fabrics Containing Designs In Two Or More C
olours. Each Area Of Colour Is Knitted From A Separate Yam, Which Is Contained E
ntirely Within That Area., (2) A Motif Design In Stitch And/or Colour
Intarsia
A Knit Fabric With An Inlaid Pattern In Contrasting Color, Usually Geometric. Th
e Design Appears On One Part Of The Fabric Rather Than All Over As A Jacquard. I
t Is Generally Engineered To Fall On A Certain Area Of The Garment.
Interfacing
A Fabric, Usually A Nonwoven, That Is Meant To Be Fused Or Sewn To Another To Gi
ve It Body And Shape.
Interlining
Any One Of A Wide Variety Of Fabrics Used Between The Inner And Outer Layers Of
A Garment To Improve Shape Retention, Strength, Warmth Or Bulk. Interlining May
Be Of Woven, Knitted, Or Nonwoven Material And May Be Produced With Or Without A
Fusible Adhesive Coating.
Interlock
A Double Face Knit Fabric With 1x1 Rib On Each Side. Usually Firm And Closely Kn
it.
Interlock, Weft-knitted
A Double-faced Rib-based Structure Consisting Of Two 1 X I Rib Fabrics Joined By
Interlock Loops. It Is Made On Machines Equipped With Two Sets Of Opposed Needl
es, From Various Materials For A Variety Of Purposes, Including Outerwear.
Intermingled Yarn
A Multifilament Yarn In Which Cohesion Is Imparted To The Filament Bundle By Ent
wining The Filaments Instead Of, Or In Addition To, Twisting. The Effect Is Usua
lly Achieved By Passing Under Light Tension Through The Turbulent Zone Of An Air
-jet., Note 1: Some Manufacturers Describe Such A Product As An Interlaced Yarn.
, Note2. Intermingling Should Be Distinguished From Air-texturing (see Textured
Yam ) In Which A Much Higher Level Of Entanglement Is Achieved With The Objectiv
e Of Producing Texture Or Bulk.
Intermingling Jet
An Air-operated Device Used As An Ancillary To Some Processes Of Yam Extrusion,
Of Drawing And Texturing To Induce Intermingling
Iridescent
A Fabric With A Changeable Color Effect Depending On The Angle Of View And Light
ing. It Is Usually The Result Of Weaving With One Color In The Warp And Another
In The Weft.
Irish Lace
Refers To Any Lace Made In Ireland. Most Often They Are Crochet Or Needlepoint L
aces.
Irish Lawn
A Lawn Fabric Produced From Fine Linen Yarns.
Irish Linen
A Woven Fabric Produced In Ireland From 100% Flax Yam.
Irish Linen Yarn
100% Flax Yarn Spun In Ireland.
Irish Poplin
A Poplin Made From A Dyed Pure Silk Organzine Warp And A Three-fold Genapped Fin
e Worsted Weft. It Is A Silk-face And -back Fabric, The Weft Being Completely Co
vered By The Warp. The Fabric Is Usually Handwoven And Is Frequently Given A Moi
r? Finish.
Izar
A Kind Of Pyjama (q. V.).
Izarband
Drawstring At The Waist For A Garment Like The Pyjama (q.v.). Literally, 'fasten
ing Of The Izar'
Jabot
Originally The Term Meant The Neck Opening Of The Chemise, And Its Lavce Trimmin
gs, Showing Through The Opening At The Doublet. Early Cravat Of Lace, Often Read
y-made, Worn During The 17th Century. The Lace Fell In A Soft Bunch To The Upper
Chest And Was Either Knotted And Draped Or Tied In A Soft Bow.
Jackboot
Over-knee High Riding Boot With Square Toes And Low Heel, Made From Stiff Leathe
r. Second Half Of 17th Century.
Jacquard
A Fabric With A Complicated Pattern Woven Or Knit Into It As Part Of Its Structu
re. For Wovens, A Jacquard Loom Is Used Which Controls Each Warp Yarn Separately
, Raising Or Lowering It As Needed During Weaving To Create The Design. For Knit
s A Jacquard Knitting Machine Creates The Design By Controlling Whether Individu
al Needles Knit, Tuck, Or Miss.
Jacquard (warp Knitting)
A Term Generally Applied To A Warp-knitting Machine With A String-type Jacquard
Placed Above To ,control Pins Placed Between Specially Shaped Guides Mounted In
A Normal Guide Bar. The Pins When, Raised Do Not Affect The Guides But When In A
Low Position Deflect Individual Guides In The Guide Bar To Extend Or Reduce By
One Needle Space The Movement By The Pattern Chain Or Pattern Wheel. A Fall Plat
e .nay Or May Not Be Used. The Term Is Also Applied To A Machine In Which A Stri
ng Jacquard Raises Individual Guides In A Guide Bar So Reducing The Lapping Move
ment Of These Individual Guides Compared To That Applied To The Guide Bar By The
Pattern Chain Or Wheel.
Jaffer
A Plain-weave Cotton Fabric With Warp And Weft In Different Colours Producing A
Shot Effect.
Jama
Full-sleeved Outerwear For Men, Greatly Popular At The Moghul And Rajput Courts
And Worn Well Into The 19th Century. Literally, "a Garment, Robe, Vest, Gown, Co
at
Jamdani
Fine Cotton Muslin With A Floral Pattern Brocaded In Thick Soft Cotton. Dacca Wa
s A Famous Center For The Production Of Fine Jamdani Work.
Janghia
Short Drawers, Worn By Men And Boys. From Sanskrit
Jaquard Mechanism (weaving)
A Shedding Mechanism, Attached To A Loom, That Gives Individual Control Of Up To
Several Hundred Warp Threads And Thus Enables Large Figured Designs To Be Produ
ced. (named After The Inventor, Joseph Marie Jacquard, 1752-1834)
Jar
See Zari.
Jaspe
A Woven Fabric With A Series Of Faint Stripes Formed By The Arrangement Of Light
, Medium, And Dark Warp Yarns Or By Twisting Together 2 Yarns Of Different Color
s . Used For Drapery, Upholstery, Suitings, etc.
Jasp?, Jasper
A Fabric That Has A Shaded Appearance Created By A Warp Thread Colour Pattern. I
t May Be Woven Or Figured, And Is Used For Bedspreads Or Curtains.
Jean
A 2/1 Warp-faced Twill Fabric Used Chiefly For Overalls Or Casual Wear. Typical
Cotton Particulars 18s X 28s (32 X 21 Tex), 90 X 60 (35 Ends/cm X 24 Picks/cm).
Jerkin
Outer Doublet Worn In England In The Late 16th And Early 17th Centuries. It Was
Sleeveless Or With Loose Sleeves.
Jersey
1. Single Knit Fabric With An Intermeshing Of Stitches In The Same Direction On
The Face And A Series Of Semicircular Loops On The Back. Thus The 2 Sides Appear
Different. 2. A General Term Referring To Any Knit Fabric Without A Distinct Ri
b.
Jet Craters
Annular Deposits That Sometimes Form Around The Holes On The Face Of Jets Used I
n The Extrusion Of Viscose. (see Also Jet Rings.)
Jet Rings
Annular Deposits Formed Occasionally Inside The Holes Of Metal Jets Or Spinneret
s When Used In The Extrusion Of Viscose, Particularly Into Coagulants Containing
Much Zinc Sulphate.
Jet Spinning
A System Of Staple-fibre Spinning Which Utilises Air To Apply The Twisting Coupl
e To The Yarn During Its Formation. The Air Is Blown Through Small Holes Arrange
d Tangentially To The Yarn Surface And This Causes The Yarn To Rotate. The Major
ity Of Systems Using This Technique Produce Fasciated Yarns, But By Using Two Ai
r Jets Operating In Opposing Twist Directions It Is Possible To Produce Yarns Wi
th More Controlled Properties But Of More Complex Structure.
Jet-dyeing Machine
(1) A Machine For Dyeing Fabric In Rope Form In Which The Fabric Is Carried Thro
ugh A Narrow Throat By Dye-liquor Circulated At A High Velocity., (2) A Machine
For Dyeing Garments In Which The Garments Are Circulated By Jets Of Liquid Rathe
r By Mechanical Means.
Jhabba
Loose, Tunic-like Garment.
Jhula
A Kind Of Blouse For Children.
Jhumb
A Covering For The Head And Body Made Simply By Tying A Sheet Or Blanket At One
End And Draped Over The Head.
Jupe
From The Arabic Djuba, Jacket. Jupe Had Two Meanings From The Middle Ages On Tow
ards The Mid 17th Century, Jacket And Skirt. Only In 1672 Did The Dictionnaire D
e L'acad?mie Francaise Define The Term Jupe, "part Of Women's Costume, From The
Waist To The Feet." The Term Had Disappeared By Then From Men's Costume, Except
For The Panels Of Certain Garments. From The 1670s On Jupe/skirt Corresponds Wit
h The Modern Meaning. In The 17th Century Women Wore 3 Jupes One On Top Of The O
ther The Modeste, A Top Skirt Which Often Trailed; The Friponne In The Middle, W
hich Covered The Secr?te, The Underskirt. The Latter Two Reached The Ground.
Justaucorps
Male Coat Developed In The Second Half Of The 17th Century. Tight Fitting In The
Shoulders, Collarless And With Flaring Skirts And Knee-length. The Flare Was Ex
tended And Made Wider Until The Early 18th Century. Later The Coat Became Narrow
, Cut Away In The Front And Sides, With A Standing Collar. (second Half Of 18th
Century). Justeaucorps From French "juste-au-corps" = Close Fitting On The Body.
Jute
The Fibre Obtained From The Bast Layer Of The Plants Corchorus Capsularis And Co
rchorus Olitorius., Note 1:commercially, Jute Is Divided Into Two Main Classes,
White Jute Generally Being Associated With Corchorus Capsularis, And Dark Jute W
ith Corchorus Olitorius., Note 2:each Of The Above-noted Classes Is Further Sub-
divided Into Numerous Grades Denoting Quality And Other Characteristics.
Jute-spun
Descriptive Of Staple Yarn That Has Been Prepared And Spun On Machinery Original
ly Designed For Spinning Yarns From Jute.
Kairi
A Green Mango.
Kairi Buti
A Floral Motif In Indian Textile Design, Based On The Form Of A Green Mango With
A Light Curve At The Tip.
Kalabatton
Silver-gilt Thread, Used In Embroidery.
Kalgha
A Popular Motif In Indian Textile Design, Broadly Cypress-shaped And Curving To
One Sides At The Top; Crest.
Kali
Gore Wedge-shaped, Triangular Piece Of Cloth.
Kalidar Ghagra
Ghaghra (q.v.) Made Up Of Many Gored Pieces And Thus Flared In Early Sanskrit Li
terature.
Kanjari
Blouse Like Garment, Worn A Little Long In Front And Generally Backless, Held To
gether With Tie-cords, With No Shaped Parts Like Cups. From Sanskrit Kanchuki.
Kantop
Literally, 't0pi, Worn Around The Ears'. This Kind Of Cap Covers The Ears And Th
e Back Of The Neck To Protect These Parts From Excessive Heat And Cold.
Kapadu
Cloth Used To Cover The Breasts. In Rajasthan And Gujarat A Simple Choli-blouse
Is Sometimes Referred To By This Name.
Kapok
A Unicellular Seed Hair Obtained From The Fruit Pods Of The Kapok Tree Eriodendr
on Anfractuosum ( Formerly Known As Ceiba Pentranda)., Note. The Fibre Is Also C
alled Ceba, Ceiba, Java Cotton Silk Cotton, Silk Floss Etc. Indian Kapok Comes F
rom Bombax Malabaricum.
Karchobi Work
Work Similar To Zardozi (q.v.) In Which Gold Or Silver Metal Threads Are Sewn On
To Satin Or Velvet With Metallic Threads To Yield The Effect Of True Embroidery
.
Kasnis
Tie-cords Or Strings Used For Tightening.
Katoris
Cups; The Word Is Used To Describe Breast-cups As In A Choli (q.v.) Or Angia (q.
v.).
Keba
See Cocoon Stripping
Kemp
A Coarse Animal Fibre With A Wide Lattice-type Medulla That Is Shed From The Ski
n At Least Once A Year; It Is Often Shorter Than Other Fibres Of The Fleece, Has
A Long Tapering Tip, And, When Completely Shed, Tapers Sharply Towards The Root
End.
Kenaf
The Fibre Obtained From The Bast Layer Of The Plant Hibiscus Cannabinus., Note 1
.. Kenaf Is Commonly Known As Mesta In India., Note2: Being Similar To Jute In M
any Of Its Properties, Kenaf Is Used Either As An Alternative To, Or In Admixtur
e With, Jute.
Kersey
A Fulled, Woven Fabric, Generally Of Wool Or A Wool Blend, With A Fine Lustrous
Nap. Used For Overcoats.
Kibisu
See Frisons
Kilotex
A Unit Of The Tex System.
Kimkhab
Silk Fabric Brocaded With Silver And Gold. The Metal Thread Used For Brocading I
s Made From A Fine Strand Of Flattened Metal Wound Over A Core Of Silk, Using Ye
llow Silk Under Gold, And White Silk Under Silver.
|Kneeing
An Unstable Condition Arising In Melt-spinning Wherein The Extrudate Forms An In
flexion On Leaving The Spinneret Instead Of Drawing Down Directly From The Orifi
ce. The Molten Filament Thus Has A Knee-like Shape Just Below The Orifice.
Knit
To Form A Fabric By The Intermeshing Of Loops Of Yarn.
Knitwear
A Term Applied In The Generic Sense To All Knitted Outer Garments Except Stockin
gs And Socks.
Kodel
A Brand Of Polyester, Trademark Of The Eastman Chemical Company.
Kontush, Later Contouche
Generously Cut Caftan-shaped Mantle Worn In Poland. The Term Passed To Germany A
nd The Nordic Countries Where It Referred To Women's Gowns, Robes Volantes Or Go
wns ? La Francaise Worn In The 18th Century.
Kurdi
A Jacket Or Coat Meant For Outerwear. The Garment Popular Under This Name In Per
sia Was Known In India As A Nadiji (q.v.).
Kurta
Variously Described In The Dictionaries As "a Tunic, Waist Coat, Jacket, Shirt",
The Kurta Became Popular In The 18th And 19th Centuries Essentially As A Slight
ly Loose-fitting Garment For Outer Wear, Often With A Round Neck, Of Knee-length
Or Even Longer, With Side-slits At The Hem And Generally Flared Skirt. It Acqui
red Great Elegance As A Garment In Centers Like Lucknow And Hyderabad.
Kurti
A Shirt-like Garment, With Most Of The Features Of A Kurta (q.v.), But Often Wor
n A Little Shorter. When Worn By Women, It Is Defined As 'a Short Bodice Reachin
g To The Hips, With Very Short, If Any, Sleeves, Open Under The Throat.'
Kv, Kw Values
Measures Of The Filterability Of Viscose Expressed In Terms Of Either Volume, Kv
Or Weight, Kw.
L

Labeda
A Loose, Tunic-like Garment Worn By Men, Mostly In Nepal. Possibly From Persian
Libada.
Lace
A Fine Openwork Fabric With A Ground Of Mesh Or Net On Which Patterns May Be Wor
ked At The Same Time As The Ground Is Formed Or Applied Later, And Which Is Made
Of Yarn By Looping, Twisting, Or Knitting, Either By Hand With A Needle Or Bobb
in, Or By Machinery; Also A Similar Fabric Made By Crocheting, Tatting, Darning,
Embroidering, Weaving, Or Knitting.
Lahore
A Piece-dyed Dress Fabric Made From Cashmere In Small Dobby Effects.
Lamb's Wool
Wool Obtained From A Lamb (a Young Sheep Up To Eight Months Old Or Up To Weaning
).
Lambskin Cloth
A Term Particularly Applied To A Heavily Wefted Cotton Fabric, With A Dense Pile
Of Fibre On The Surface. The Weave Is Of A Weft-sateen Character.
Lame
A Fabric Woven Or Knit With Metallic Yarns . It Is Usually Gold Or Silver In Col
or . Used In Evening Wear.
Lam?
A General Name For Fabrics In Which Metallic Threads Are A Conspicuous Feature.
Laminated
A Compound Fabric Usually Comprised Of A Continuous Sheet Of Thermoplastic Film
Such As Polyurethane Or Pvc Bonded To A Base Fabric With Heat Or Adhesive.
Lampas
A Multi-colour Figured Drapery And Upholstery Fabric Similar To A Brocade, Made
Of Silk, Viscose Rayon, Or Combinations Of Yams. Two Warps, One Forming The Grou
nd And One Bind Wefts, In Regular Or Irregular Order, Form The Figure.
Lap
(1) (general) A Sheet Of Fibres Or Fabric Wrapped Round A Core With Specific App
lications In Different Sections Of The Industry, E.g., Sheets Of Fibre Wound On
Rollers Or Round Endless Aprons To Facilitate Transfer From One Process To The N
ext., Note: In Cotton Spinning, The Sheets Of Fibre From Openers And Scutchers,
Sliver-lap Machines, And Ribbon-lap Machines Are Wound On Cores. , ( 2) (flax) A
n Arrangement Of The Fibre Strands In Scutched Flax, Pieced Out For Hackling, Or
In Pieces Of Hackled Flax, To Facilitate Their Removal As Separate Units From B
uilt-up Bundles. (3) (fabric.) The Length Of Fabric Between Successive Transvers
e Folds When Pieces Are Plaited Down Or Folded,, (4) (fabric) An Individual Laye
r Of Fabric In Roll Form., (5) Fibres Wrapped Accidentally Round Any Rotating Ma
chine Part., (6) Silk Waste After Discharging And Combing, But Before Processing
Into Sliver Or Top. The Staple Length Of The Fibre Decreases Between The First,
Second And Third Drafts (combings).
Lap Waste (wool)
A Sheet Of Fibres Accidentally Wound Round Rollers Or Aprons. It Is Substantiall
y Without Twist And May Be Carded Without Further Processing.
Laser Cut
The Process Of Cutting A Design Into The Fabric By Using A Narrow Beam Laser To
Vaporize The Fabric.
Latent Crimp
A Crimp That Is Potentially Present In Specially Prepared Fibres Or Filaments An
d That Can Be Developed By A Specific Treatment Such As Thermal Relaxation Or Te
nsioning And Subsequent Relaxation.
Lawn
A Fine, Plain-woven Fabric Of Linen Or Cotton, Made In Various Fine, Sheer Quali
ties. Various Finishes May Be Applied To A Fabric Of This Type, In Which Case Th
e Product Is Known By The Name Of The Finish Used, E.g. Organdie
Lawn
A Thin, Light, Crisp, Plain Weave Fabric Usually Of Cotton, Cotton Bends Or Line
n. More Firm Than Batiste Or Voile But Less Firm Than Organdy.
Lawn Finish
A Medium-starch Finish Applied To Lawn And Other Fine-yarn Plain Fabrics To Give
A Crisp Finished Effect.
Lea (cotton)
In Cotton, A Length Of 120 Yards; In Worsted 80 Yards; In Linen 300 Yards., Note
: In Cotton And Worsted These Lengths Are One-seventh Of The Standard Hank. In D
etermining Grist. It Was Less Wasteful To Count Leas Per 1000 Grains Than Hanks
Per Pound (7000 Grains).
Lea (linen)
The Count Of A Flax-spun Yarn., Lea Count-strength Product; Csp; Break Factor (u
.s.), The Product Of The Lea Strength, And The Actual Count Of Cotton Yarn
Leading Strings Or Tatas
Long Narrow Strips Of Cloth Attached To The Shoulders Of Small Children's Dresse
s To Hold Them By When They Began To Walk. These Aids Were Used In The 17th And
18th Centuries. In England, In The 18th Century, Young Girls Wore These Bands Of
Cloth Until Marriage.
Lehnga
A Kind Of Skirt. Worn Generally In Combination With An Odhani, Which Is Tucked I
nto It At The Waist. Possibly Derived From Sanskrit Lanka, Standing For The Wais
t, And Anga Or Limbs.
Length, Fabric
Unless Otherwise Specified, The Usable Length Of A Piece Between Any Truth Marks
, Piece-ends, Or Numbering, When The Fabric Is Measured Laid Flat On A Table In
The Absence Of Tension
Leno
Refers To An Open Weave Fabric. In A Leno Weave The Warp Yarns Are Arranged In P
airs, Twisting Or Interlocking Around The Filling Yarn To Prevent Slippage And M
ake The Open Weave Stronger And More Firm.
Leno Fabric
A Fabric In Which Warp Threads Have Been Made To Cross One Another, Between The
Picks, During Weaving. The Crossing Of The Warp Threads May Be A General Feature
Of Plain Leno Fabrics (as Marquisette And Some Gauzes And Muslins) Or May Be Us
ed In Combination With Other Weaves (as In Some Cellular Fabrics ).
Letona
A Bast Fibre Obtained From The Plant Agave Letonae
Leuco Dye
A Reduced Form Of A Dye From Which The Original Dye May Be Regenerated By Oxidat
ion
Levelling
Migration Of Dye Leading To Uniform Coloration Of A Substrate.
Lever Lace
Lace Made On A Leavers Machine. The Machine Uses Mechanically Controlled Bobbins
And Is Controlled By A Jacquard Mechanism. They Can Produce Fine Delicate Patte
rns That Resemble Handmade Laces.
Limbric
A Light- To- Medium-weight, Closely Woven, Plain-weave, Cotton Fabric Made From
Good-quality Yams. The Weft Is Coarser And More Closely Spaced And Has A Lower T
wist Factor Than The Warp Giving A Soft Fabric In Which The Weft Predominates On
Both Sides (cf. Casement Cloth). A Example Was 50s X 36s (12 X 16 Tex), Both Eg
yptian Yams, 68 X 102 (27 Ends/cm X 40 Picks/cm).
Limp
Refers To A Fabric That Is Very Drapey And Lacking In Body.
Line Flax (obsolescent)
Hackled Flax
Linear Density
The Mass Per Unit Length Of Linear Textile Material.
Linen
(1) Descriptive Of Yarns Spun Entirely From Flax Fibres., (2) Descriptive Of Fab
rics Woven From Linen Yarns., (3) Descriptive Of Articles Which, Apart From Ador
nments, Are Made Of Yarns Spun From Flax, Note: Despite Some Usage Of This Term
In Non-technical Circles As A Generic One, E.g. Linen Department, Baby Linen, Ho
usehold Linen, It Does Not Apply To Individual Articles That Do Not Comply With
The Definition.
Linen Prover
See Counting Glass
Lingerie
Feminine Underwear, Slumberwear And Similar Garments Of Fine Texture And Aesthet
ic Appeal., Note: The Term, Derived From The French 'lin', Referred Originally T
o Linen Articles, Especially Ladies' Underwear.
Linseed Flax
Varieties Of Flax Cultivated Mainly For Seed Production.
Linsey-wolsey (formerly Linsey-woolsey)
(1) A Coarse Linen Fabric., (2) A Strong, Coarse Fabric With A Linen Warp And A
Worsted Weft.
Lint
(1) The Main Seed Hair Of The Cotton Plant, (cf. Linters).,(2) A Plain-weave, Hi
ghly Absorbent Material With One Raised Fleecy Surface. For Surgical Purposes It
Is Sterilised.
Lint Ball
Lint Or Fluff That Has Accumulated On A Knitting Machine And Become Incorporated
In The Fabric.
Linters
Whole And Broken Lint Fibres And Fuzz Fibres, Which Are Removed From Ginned Cott
on Seed By A Special Ginning Process., Note: The First Ginning Of Cotton Removes
Most Of The Lint Fibres From The Ordinary Raw Cotton Of Commerce. The Seed Is T
hen Subjected To A Second Processing On A Special Gin To Remove The Linters, Whi
ch Are Composed Of A Small Proportion Of Whole-lint Fibres, Greater Amounts Of B
roken-lint Fibres, And Fuzz Fibres That Are Much Coarser And Shorter Than The Li
nt. The Removal Of Lint And Fuzz Is Not Completed By This Operation And The Resi
due May Be Successively Re-ginned. The Products Are Termed 'first-cut Linters',
'second-cut Linters', Etc., The Length Of The Fibres In Each Successive Cut Beco
ming Progressively Shorter.
Liquid Ammonia Treatment
A Process During Which Textile Material Is Immersed In Or Brought Into Contact W
ith Anhydrous Liquid Ammonia. The Treatment Confers 'flat Setting', I.e., Smooth
Drying Properties And An Attractive Soft Handle To Cotton Fabrics.
Lisle Thread
A Highly Twisted, Plied (usually 2-ply) Good Quality Cotton Hosiery Yarn, Spun G
enerally In Fine Counts. All Lisle Threads Are Gassed And Some May Be Mercerized
(mercerized Lisle). A Lisle Thread Was Formerly A Plied Yarn Having Singles Of
Opposite Twist.
Llama Fibre (hair)
Fibre From The Fleece Of The Llama (lama Glama) That Inhabits The High Mountain
Regions Of South America
Loading
Increasing The Weight Of Fabrics By The Addition Of Delequescent Salts, Starch O
r China Clay. This Term Is Not Restricted To One Class Of Textile Fabrics, But I
s Used Loosely In Connection With Finishing Of Wool, Cellulose, Or Silk Goods.
Locks
A Term Used In Wool-sorting For Short Oddments Of Wool Which Fall From The Skirt
ing Tables Or Are Swept Up From The Boards. In Some Countries It Can Include Soi
led Tufts And Pieces From Near The Rumps Of Sheep.
Loden
Coarse Woollen Milled Water-repellent Fabric Used For Jackets, Coats And Capes.
Lofty
A Term Applied To An Assemblage Of Fibres To Denote A Relatively High Degree Of
Openness And Resilience, Or A Large Volume For A Given Mass.
Loom
A Term Used For Weaving Machine.
Loom-state
Any Woven Fabric As It Leaves The Loom Before It Receives Any Subsequent Process
ing.
Loose
Refers To A Fabric That Is Not Tightly Constructed And Shifts Easily.
Lousiness
See Exfoliation
Love Lock
In The First Half Of The 17th Century Men Grew One Lock Longer Than The Rest Of
The Long Hair. It Is Tied With A Ribbon And Laid To The Front Of The Left Should
er ("cavalier"-style).
Lungi
A Garment-piece Worn By Men, As A Long, Straight Skirt-cloth.
Lurex Brand
Brand Of Metallic Fiber And Yarn Of The Lurex Co.
Lustre
The Display Of Different Intensities Of Light, Reflected Both Specularly And Dif
fusely From Different Parts Of A Surface Exposed To The Same Incident Light. Hig
h Lustre Is Associated With Gross Differences Of This Kind, And Empirical Measur
ements Of Lustre Depend On The Ratio Of The Intensities Of Reflected Light For S
pecified Angles Of Incidence And Viewing., Note: This Definition Makes These Dif
ferences In Intensity Of Light The Key Point, Since These Form The Chief Subject
ive Impression On The Observer Of Lustre. Both Specular And Diffuse Light Must B
e Present Together, For, If Diffuse Light Only Is Present, The Surface Is Matt,
Not Lustrous, Whereas, If Specular Light Only Is Present, The Surface Is Mirror-
like, And Again Not Lustrous. The Phrase 'exposed To The Same Incident Light' Ha
s Been Included To Rule Out Shadow Effects, Which Have No Part In Lustre Proper.
The General Term 'surface' Is Intended To Apply To Fibres, Yarns, And Fabrics,
And Indeed To Other Surfaces, E.g., That Of A Pearl (through There The Different
ly Reflecting Parts Are Very Close Together). In The Second Sentence Of The Defi
nition, Lustre Is Regarded As A Positive Function Of The Differences, The Approp
riate Adjective Of Intensification Being 'high'.
Lycra Brand
Du Pont Brand Of Spandex Yarn.
M

Machine-washable
A Term Denoting That A Textile Article Can Be Washed In A Domestic Washing Machi
ne To Remove Dirt And Other Extraneous Substances Using An Aqueous Detergent Sol
ution At Elevated Temperatures.
Madapolam
A Bleached Or Dyed Plain Cotton Fabric With A Soft Finish In Any Of A Wide Range
Of Qualities Used For Ladies Wear.
Madras
Cotton Fabric Hand-woven In The Madras Region Of India.
Madras Plaid
Bright Multicolored Plaids Characteristic Of Indian Madras.
Maline
A Fine Hexagonal Open Mesh Net Similar To Tulle. Used For Veils Millinery Trim.
Mandeel
A Kind Of Decoratively Worn Turban.
Mangle
A Machine Whose Purpose Is To Express Liquid From Moving Textiles By Passage Thr
ough A Nip. The Textile May Be In Rope Form Or In Open Width, And The Mangle May
Consist Of Two Or More Rollers (bowls) Running In Contact.
Manila
See Abaca.
Man-made Fibre
A Fibre Manufactured By Man As Distinct From A Fibre That Occurs Naturally.
Mantua, Also Manteau
Widespread Female Dress Of The Late 17th Century. Developed From A T-shaped Garm
ent, Which Is First Pleated Informally At The Shoulders And The Waist Pleats Are
Controlled By A Belt. Instead Of Cutting The Bodice And Skirt As Separate Piece
s That Were Sewn Together, Bodice And Skirt Were Cut In One Length From Shoulder
To Hem. Cut To Fall Full In Back And Front, The Garment Was Worn Over A Corset
And An Underskirt. Front Skirt Edges Were Often Pulled To The Back And Fastened
To Form A Draped Effect, The So-called Waterfall-backdrape.
Marl
To Run Together And Draft Into One, Two Slubbings Or Rovings Of Different Colour
Or Lustre.
Marl Effect Yarn (continuous-filament)
Two Single, Continuous-filament Yarns, Of Different Solid Colours Or Dyeing Prop
erties (subsequently Dyed) Doubled Together., Also Termed Ingrain (filament Yarn
)
Marl Yarn (woollen)
A Yarn Consisting Of Two Woollen-spun Single Ends Of Different Colours Twisted T
ogether.
Marlborough Bucket Boot
Thigh-high Riding Boot With Cup-shaped Wide Top, Square Toes And Higher Heels Th
an The Jackboot. Made From Stiff Leather; Fourth Quarter Of 17th Century To Begi
nning Of 18th Century.
Marled
Yarns Made Up Of 2 Different Colors, Produced By Combining Fiber Strands (roving
s) Of 2 Different Colors, Or Twisting Together 2 Yarns Of Different Colors, Or B
y Cross Dyeing Plied Yarns Of 2 Different Fibers.
Marocain
A Woven Crepe Fabric With A Wavy Rib Effect In The Weft Resulting From The Use O
f High Twist Yarns. Used In Women's Dresses, Suits.
Marquisette
Fine Lightweight Open Mesh Fabric. Used For Curtains, Mosquito Netting, Trim For
Evening Wear, Or Millinery.
Mashru
A Fabric Woven Of Silk And Cotton, The Warp Of One Material And The Weft Of The
Other. Literally, 'that Which Is In Accordance With The Shara, Muslim Holy Law,
Which Disapproves Of An Arel Made Of Silk.
Mask
Theatrical Accessory In Ancient Times, It Was Adopted In The 16th And 17th Centu
ry By Women, To Protect The Wearer's Complexion And Preserve Her Incognito. See
Also Vizor.
Mass Stress
A Term That Has Been Superseded By Specific Stress.
Mass-coloured
Descriptive Of Man-made Fibres In Which Colouring Matter (e.g., Dye Or Pigment)
Has Been Incorporated Before The Filament Is Formed.
Mass-pigmented
Descriptive Of A Form Of Mass-coloration In Which A Pigment Is Used
Matchings
Wool That Has Been Sorted.
Matelasse
A Fancy Double Woven Or Compound Fabric That Has The Appearance Of Being Padded,
Puckered Or Quilted . It Is Usually Woven On A Jacquard Loom. Used For Upholste
ry , Drapery, Vests . Lighter Weights Are Used For Dresses And Other Apparel.
Matt
See Dull.
Matte Jersey
Tricot With A Dull Surface Made With Fine Crepe Yarn.
Mature Cotton
Cotton Whose Fibre Wall Has Thickened To An Acceptable Degree., See Also Immatur
e Cotton, Motes
Maturity
An Important Cotton Fibre Characteristic Which Expresses The Relative Degree Of
Thickening Of Wall. It Is Sometimes Defined As The Ratio Of The Cross-sectional
Area Of The Fibre Wall To The Area Of A Circle Having The Same Perimeter As That
Of The Fibre, Or The Ratio Of The Average Wall Thickness To The Radius Of The C
ircle Having The Same Perimeter As That Of The Fibre. However, In Practice, Meas
urement Of The Degree Of Wall Thickening Is Seldom Carried Out And The Average M
aturity Of A Given Sample Of Cotton Is Estimated By One Or More Of Several Indir
ect Tests Which Are Often Used To Discover The Proportion Of Fibres Having A Mat
urity Greater Than Some Selected Level.
Mauritius Hemp
A Fibre From The Leaf Of The Plant Furcraea Gigantea., Also Termed Mauritius Fib
re, See Also Fibre Types
Mechanical Stretch
Fabrics That Have Stretch Properties But No Not Use Spandex Or Other Stretch Yar
ns. The Stretch Is Usually Created In The Finishing Process.
Mechlen Lace
A Bobbin Lace Characterized By Delicate Florals Outlined With A Silky Thread.
Medulla
The Central Portion Of Some Animal Fibres Consisting Of A Series Of Cavities For
med By The Medullary Cells Which Collapse During The Growth Process. In Some Fib
res E.g., Wool And Kemp, The Medulla Forms The Greatest Portion Of The Fibre And
Is Surrounded By A Comparatively Thin Layer Of Cortex.
Melange/heather
A Variation In Tone Or Mottled Look . May Be Done By Mixing Fibers Or Yarn Of Di
fferent Colors Together, Printing Of The Top Before Spinning The Yarn, Or Cross
Dyeing The Fabric.
Melt Blowing
A Process In Which A Polymer Is Melt-extruded Through A Die Into A High-velocity
Stream Of Hot Air, Which Converts It Into Fine And Relatively Short Fibres. Aft
er Quenching By A Cold Air Stream, The Fibres Are Collected As A Sheet On A Movi
ng Screen.
Melt Fracture
An Unstable Melt-spinning Condition In Which The Surface Of The Extrudate Become
s Rough And Irregular.
Melt Spinning (man-made Fibre Production)
Conversion Of A Molten Polymer Into Filaments By Extrusion And Subsequent Coolin
g Of The Extrudate.
Melton
A Heavily Felted, Tightly Woven Fabric With A Sheared Nap Giving It A Smooth Sur
face. It Is Almost Always Of Wool Or A Wool Blend. Used Mainly For Coats But Lig
hter Weights May Be Used For Other Apparel.
Melt-spun
Descriptive Of Man-made Filaments Produced By Melt-spinning.
Mercerization
(1) The Treatment Of Cellulosic Textiles In Yam Or Fabric Form With A Concentrat
ed Solution Of Caustic Alkali Whereby The Fibres Are Swollen, The Strength And D
ye Affinity Of The Materials Are Increased, And The Handle Is Modified. The Proc
ess Takes Its Name From Its Discoverer, John Mercer (1844)., The Additional Effe
ct Of Enhancing The Lustre By Stretching The Swollen Materials While Wet With Ca
ustic Alkali And Then Washing Off Was Discovered By Horace Lowe (1889). The Mode
rn Process Of Mercerization Involves Both Swelling In Caustic Alkalis And Stretc
hing, To Enhance The Lustre, To Increase Colour Yield, To Improve Dyeability Of
Dead Cotton And To Improve The Strength Of The Cotton. A Related Process, Liquid
Ammonia Treatment Produces Some Of The Effects Of Mercerization. In Chain Merce
rizing, Shrinkage In Fabric Width Is Allowed, Followed By Re-stretching And Wash
ing On A Clip-stenter. In Chainless Mercerizing, The Fabric Is Effectively Preve
nted From Shrinking By Transporting Over Rotating Drums.:(2) Hot Mercerization,
The Treatment Of Cellulosic Fabric With A Hot Concentrated Solution Of Caustic A
lkali To Facilitate Uniform Penetration Prior To Cooling And Stretching Etc., So
As To Improve The Degree Of Mercerization.
Mercerized
A Finishing Process For Cotton Using Caustic Soda Which May Be Applied At The Ya
rn Or Fabric Stage Resulting In Additional Luster, Improved Strength And An Impr
oved Ability To Take Dye.
Merchant Converter
An Individual Who Or An Organization Which Locates A Supplier And Purchases Grey
Fabric, Procures Its Finishing And Then Re-sells The Finished Fabric To Custome
rs.
Merino
(1) Wool From Merino Sheep. The Merino Breed Of Sheep Originated In Spain And Th
e Wool Is Noted For Its Fineness And Whiteness. It Was Confined To Spain Until T
he Late 1700's When Merino Sheep Were Exported To, And Bred In, Many Other Count
ries. Well Known Types Of Merino Are: Australian Ramboulliet, Vermont, South Afr
ican, Saxony Etc. The Word 'merino' Is Now Almost Synonymous With 'fine Wool'.,
(2) A Pre-20th Century Term Applied In France And Germany To Worsted Fabrics Pro
duced From Yarns Using Merino Or Other Fine Wools., (3) A Plainback Worsted Fabr
ic Developed In England In The 1820's. It Was Made From Fine Yarns Spun From Mer
ino Or Other Fine Wools Of 23 To 28 Tex For The Warp And 17 To 22 Tex For The We
ft. The Stimulus For The Development Of This Fabric Was The Availability Of Fine
Machine-spun Worsted Yarn, (4) Woollen Fabrics Made In England From Yams Produc
ed From Wool Reclaimed From Soft Woollen And Worsted Dress Goods., (5) A French
Shawl Made From Two-fold Warp Yam Using Merino Wool. The Weft Yarn Is Made From
Other Wool Or Silk., (6) A Fine Cotton Fabric Used As A Dress Material In The Ph
ilippines. It Is Made From Yarns Of 13 Tex For The Warp, And 15 To 10 Tex For Th
e Weft With 32 Ends X 32 Picks Per Cm.
Merino
Refers To Wool From The Merino Sheep Which Produces A Fine, Strong Elastic Fiber
Of Very High Quality . It Can Be Washed To A Clean White Color And Has Good Fel
ting And Spinning Characteristics.
Mesh
A General Term For Fabric With Open Spaces Between The Yarns. It May Be Knit , W
oven Or Knotted (net) In Construction.
Mesta
See Kenaf
Metachrome Process
A Single-bath Method Of Dyeing In Which The Fibre Is Treated In A Dyebath Contai
ning A Suitable Chrome Dye Together With A Chromate, Whereby A Dye-chromium Comp
lex Is Formed Within The Fibre.
Metal (fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Made From Any Metal.
Metallic
A Highly Lustrous, Reflective Fabric That Has The Appearance Of Metal. May Be Co
ated Or Made From Synthetic Yarns In Metallic Colors.
Metallized Yarn
A Yam Which Has Free Metal As A Component., Note: There Are Several Types, The B
est Known Of Which Are:, , (2) Metal Of Narrow Strip Section, Usually Lustrous.
The Metal May Be Coated With Film Such As Viscose Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate),
Butanoate (butyrate), Or Polyester. The Film May Be Coloured. , (3) Yarns On Wh
ich Metal Is Deposited, E.g., Chemically Or By Electric Arc, Or By Adhesive,, (4
) Multi-end Yams In Which At Least One Single Yarn Is Metallic, (cf. Tinsel Yarn
.), (5) A Gimp In Which The Helical Covering Consists Of A Metallic Or Laminated
Strip.
Metameric
Descriptive Of Objects That Exhibit Metamerism.
Metamerism
A Phenomenon Whereby The Nature Of The Colour Difference Between Two Similarly C
oloured Objects, Changes With Change In The Spectral Distribution (characteristi
cs) Of The Illuminant., Note 1: Metamerism Is Most Frequently Seen When Two Colo
ured Objects Match In Daylight, But Differ Markedly In Colour When Viewed In Tun
gsten-filament Light. This Arises Because The Visible Absorption Spectra Of The
Two Objects Differ Significantly, Although The Tristimulus Values In Daylight Ar
e Identical., Note 2: This Term Is Often Used Loosely To Describe The Behavior O
f A Single Coloured Object That Shows A Marked Change Of Colour As The Illuminan
t Changes. Use Of This Term In This Way Is Incorrect: This Effect Should Be Desc
ribed As Lack Of Colour Constancy.
Metier
The Bank Of Cells Or Compartments Used In The Dry-spinning Of Cellulose Ethanoat
e (cellulose Acetate)
Microfiber
Extremely Fine Synthetic Fiber Used To Produce Soft, Lightweight Fabrics . Micro
fiber Is Often Defined As Fibers Of Less Than 1 Denier Per Filament But The Term
Is Used Loosely In The Industry. May Be Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, Rayon Or Oth
er Fibers. Used For Rainwear, Outerwear And Various Other Types Of Apparel.
Micromattique
Brand Of Polyester Microfiber Trademarked By Du Pont.
Micronaire Value .
A Measurement Of Cotton Fibre Quality Which Is A Reflection Of Both Fineness And
Maturity. Low Values Indicate Fine And/or Immature Fibres; High Values Indicate
Coarse And/or Mature Fibres. Micronaire Value Is Determined In Practice By Meas
uring The Air Permeability Of A Specified Plug Of Cotton Fibres.
Milanese
A Warp Knit Process Resulting In A Fabric With A Fine Rib On The Face And A Diam
ond Effect On The Back. Used For Women's Lingerie And Other Apparel.
Mildew
A Superficial Growth Of Certain Species Of Fungi., Note: On Textile Materials, T
his May Lead To Discoloration, Tendering, And Variation In Properties.
Milled/fulled
A Method Of Compressing , Shrinking And Felting A Fabric Through The Use Of Mois
ture Heat And Mechanical Pressure. Usually Done On Wool And Wool Blends Such As
Melton. The Process Often Obscure The Weave.
Milling (fabric Finishing)
The Process Of Consolidating Or Compacting Woven Or Knitted Fabrics That Usually
, Although Not Exclusively Contain Wool., Note., The Treatment, Which Is Usually
Given In A Cylinder Milling Machine Or In Milling Stocks, Produces Relative Mot
ion Between The Fibres Of A Fabric. That Have Been Wetted Out And Swollen With A
Liquid Of Suitable pH. Depending On The Type Of Fibre And Structure Of The Fabr
ic And On Variations In The Conditions Of Milling, A Wide Range Of Effects Can B
e Obtained Varying From A Slight Alteration In Handle To A Dense Matting With Co
nsiderable Reduction In Area.
Millitex
A Unit Of The Tex System
Mini Check
A Very Small Pattern Of Squares Or Rectangles . May Be Yarn Dyed, Printed, Or Wo
ven Into The Fabric.
Minimum-care
See Drip-dry
Mirzai
A Kind Of Jacket, Often Understood As A 'quilted Coat'. It Was Generally Worn Sl
eeveless Over A Shirt As Outer Garment; Worn Sometimes Also Next To The Skin, Wi
thout Anything Underneath It.
Mock Leno
A Woven Fabric Made On A Dobby Loom With An Open Mesh Design That Simulates A Le
no Weave By Interlacing And Grouping The Warp And Weft Yarns With Spaces Between
The Groups. Warp Yarns Are Not Paired As In A True Leno Weave.
Modacrylic (fibre) (generic Name)
Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Having In The Chain Between 3
5% And 85% (by Mass) Of Recurring Cyanoethane (acrylonitrile) Groups.
Modal (fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Of Regenerated Cellulose Obtained By Processes Gi
ving A High Tenacity And A High Wet Modulus. These Fibres Must Be Able, In The W
et State, To Withstand Without Breaking A Force Of 22.o Cn Per Tex. Under This F
orce, The Elongation In The Wet State Should Not Be Greater Than 15%.
Modeste
French Word For The Outer Layer Of A Skirt. The Underlayer Was Called Secr?te.
Mohair
(1) Fibre From The Angora Goat (capra Hircus), (2) Descriptive Of Yams Spun From
Mohair.
Mohair Braid
Any Type Of Braid Made From Mohair Yams.
Moire
A Wavy Watermark Pattern Produced By Calendering 2 Layers Of Fabric Together Or
Embossing With An Engraved Roller. This Causes The Embossed Or Crushed Parts Of
The Fabric To Reflect Light Differently . It Is Often Done On Corded Fabrics And
Is Often Used For Upholstery And Drapery.
Moir? Fabric
A Ribbed Or Corded Fabric That Has Been Subjected To Heat And Heavy Pressure By
Rollers After Weaving So As To Present A Rippled Appearance. The Effect Arises F
rom Differences In Reflection Of The Flattened And The Unaffected Parts. This Ty
pe Of Fabric Is Also Correctly Described As Watered
Moisture Content, Percentage
The Weight Of Moisture In A Material Expressed As A Percentage Of The Total Weig
ht
Moity Wool
A Term Used Mainly In The Uk, For Wool Containing Vegetable Matter (straw, Hay,
Twigs, Etc.,) Picked Up By Sheep During Grazing.
Molar Mass (polymer)
The Average Of The Sum Of The Atomic Weights Of The Atoms Present In The Chains
Of Macromolecules In A Polymer. This Average Will In General Depend Upon The Bas
is On Which Calculated, And This Should Be Stated, E.g., It May Be Based On A Nu
mber Average Or A Mass Average
Moleskin
A Strong, Heavy, Woven Fabric With A Short, Smooth Nap Produced By Brushing And
Shearing The Surface. Usually Of Cotton.
Molten-metal Dyeing Process
A Method Of Continuous Dyeing In Which Material Is Impregnated With An Aqueous L
iquid Dye And Chemicals And Then Passed Through A Bath Of Liquid Low-melting All
oy Usually Below 100 ?c
Momme
A Japanese Measurement Of Mass Equivalent To 3.76g (approximately). It Is Used T
o Indicate The Weight Per Unit Area Of Silk Fabric, This Being Expressed As The
Weight In Momme Of A Length Of Degummed Fabric 22.8 M In Length And 3.8 Cm In Wi
dth., Note: The Length Measurements Used Are Standard Units Of Length In The Jap
anese Silk Industry.
Monk's Cloth
A Heavy, Coarse, Loosely Woven Fabric Made In A Basket Weave . Used For Drapery,
Upholstery And Other Home Furnishings
Monofilament Yarn
A Yam Composed Of One Filaments That Run Essentially The Whole Length Of The Yar
n. Yams Of More Than One Filament Are Usually Referred To As Multifilament .
Monomer
A Small, Simple, Chemical Compound From Which A Polymer Is Formed., Note: In Mos
t Cases A Given Polymer Can Be Made From A Variety Of Alternative Monomers. In S
ome Cases Two Or More Different Monomers Are Involved In The Production Of A Pol
ymer.
Monotone
Refers To A Design In One Color.
Moquette
A Firm Double Woven Pile Fabric Used Mainly For Upholstery . Pile May Be Cut , U
ncut Or Partially Cut.
Mordant
A Substance, Usually A Metallic Compound, Applied To A Substrate To Form A Compl
ex With A Dye, Which Is Retained By The Substrate More Firmly Than The Dye Itsel
f.
Mordant Dye
A Dye That Is Fixed With A Mordant
Moshla
A Cap, Worn Usually By Children, Covering, Apart From The Back, The Back Of The
Neck Through A Long, Suspended Flap.
Moss Crepe/pebble Crepe
A Woven Fabric With A Characteristic Grainy Surface And Often A Spongy Hand. Gen
erally Made With High Twist Yarn In A Crepe Weave. Used In Women's Suits, Dresse
s Etc.
Mossed
1. A Finish Usually Applied To Synthetics Which Gives The Fabric Surface An Irre
gular, Mottled Appearance . 2. A Fibrous Texture On The Surface Of Felted Woolen
Fabrics.
Motes (cotton)
There Are Two Broad Categories, (a) Fuzzy Motes, The Largest Of This Type Of Mot
e Consists Of Whole Aborted Or Immature Seed With Fuzz Fibres And Sometimes Also
With Very Short Lint Fibres, The Development Of Which Has Ceased At A Very Earl
y Stage. Small Fuzzy Motes Originate As Either Undeveloped Or Fully Grown Seeds,
Which Are Broken In Ginning And Disintegrate Still Further In The Opening, Clea
ning And Carding Processes., (b) Bearded Needles. A Piece Of Seed Coat With Fair
y Long Lint Fibres Attached., Note 1: Both Classes Of Mote Become Entangled With
The Lint Cotton And, When They Are Present In Quantity, Their Complete Eliminat
ion Is Impossible Except By Combing., Note 2: Fuzzy And Bearded Motes Carrying O
nly A Small Piece Of Barely Visible Seed-coat Are Frequently Termed Seed-coat Ne
ps.
Mottle (U.K.)
See Marl
Mouches
French Word For Small Black Patches Worn On The Face To Hide Little Blemishes. T
hey Came Into Fashion In The Second Half Of The 17th Century And Developed Far I
nto The 18th Century A Language Of Its Own, Where They Were Exaggeratedly Used E
ven By Men And Available In Diverse Shapes.
Mousseline
General Term For Crisp, Lightweight, Semi-opaque Fabrics . May Be Made From A Va
riety Of Fibers.
Muff
Round Band Of Fur Or Fur Lined Cloth To Protect The Hands From The Cold.
Muga
See Wild Silk
Mughlai Pyjama
A Pyjama (q. V.) Of The 'mughal' Cut.
Mull
Soft, Thin, Plain Weave Fabric Usually Of Cotton Or Silk.
Multi-filament Yarn
A Yam Composed Of Filaments That Run Essentially The Whole Length Of The Yarn. Y
ams Of One Filament Are Usually Referred To As Monofilament .
Multilobal
Descriptive Of A Fibre Or Filament Whose Cross-section Resembles A Polygon But H
as Concave Sides And Rounded Vertices (lobes)., Note: The Prefixes Tri- (3), Pen
ta- (5), Hexa- (6), Octa- (8), Etc., Are Used With The Suffix -lobal To Indicate
The Number Of Lobes.
Munga
See Wild Silk
Mungo
The Fibrous Material Made In The Woollen Trade By Pulling Down New Or Old Hard-w
oven Or Milled Fabric Or Felt In Rag Form
Muslin
A Large Group Of Plain Weave Cotton Or Cotton Blend Fabrics. They Cover A Variet
y Of Weights From Light, Fine Sheers To Heavier Sheetings. Used In Interfacings,
Dresses, Shirts, Sheets, Furniture Covers, And Many Other Applications .
Muslin
A Generic Name For A Light-weight, Open Fabric Of Plain Or Simple Leno Weave Tra
ditionally With A Cover Factor Of 5- 10 In The Warp And 5-9 In The Weft. Normall
y, Muslins Did Not Exceed 2 Oz/yd2 (68 G.m-2)). Some Of These Fabrics Are Used I
n The Grey State (butter Muslin And Cheese Cloth), Whereas Others (dress Muslins
) Are Bleached And Dyed.
Mutton Cloth
A Plain-knitted Fabric Of Loose Texture, Usually Cotton, Made On A Multi-feeder
Circular-knitting Machine.
Nadiri
A Kind Of Jackets, Worn As An Outer Garment. The Emperor Jehangir Described It I
n His Memoirs As "a Coat They Wear Over A Qaba. Its Length Is From The Waist Dow
n To Below The Thighs, And It Has No Sleeves. It Is Fastened In Fror4t With Butt
ons."
Nainsook
A Fine, Light, Plain-woven Cotton Fabric With A Soft Finish.
Nainsook
A Lightweight, Plain Weave Cotton Fabric . Used For Lingerie, Baby Clothes.
Name
Glossary
Nap
(1) A Fibrous Surface, Produced On A Fabric Or Felt, In Which Part Of The Fibre
Is Raised From The Basic Structure., Note: Originally Nap And Pile Were Used Syn
onymously, But The Present Trend Of Using The Two Terms For Different Concepts I
s To Be Encouraged As Providing A Means Of Differentiation And Avoidance Of Conf
usion. (2) A Local Variation, Used In The Flax-processing Industry, Of Nep. (3)
In Raw Cotton, Matted Clumps Of Fibres Which Are Entangled More Loosely Than Tho
se In Neps
Napped
See Brushed/ Napped.
Naqsha
Pattern; Scheme.
Nastaliq
One Of The Many Scripts In Which Persian Characters Can Be Written.
Natio
A Kind Of Cap Popular In Gujarat And Rajasthan. It Consists Generally Of A Woven
Piece And Headband, With A Long Flap, Which Hangs At The Back To Cover The Neck
.
Natural
Refers To The Color Of The Fiber As Found In Nature, I.e. Unbleached And Undyed.
Linen And Linen Blends Are Often Sold In Their Natural Brown Color.
Natural & Color
Refers To Yarn Dye Fabrics Which Combine Natural Yarns And Colored Yarns In The
Design.
Natural And Overprint
Refers To Printing Done On A Natural Ground.
Natural Flax
Scutched Flax Produced From Deseeded Straw Without Any Intermediate Treatment Su
ch As Retting.
Nautical
Refers To Motifs With A Nautical Or Maritime Theme.
Navel
In Rotor Spinning A Device, Aligned On The Axis Of The Rotor, Through Which The
Yarn Is Withdrawn.
Neck
In The Process Of Drawing Synthetic Filaments Or Films, The Relatively Short Len
gth Over Which A Reduction In Cross-sectional Area Occurs As A Result Of Stretch
ing Beyond A Critical Value., Note: Commercial Drawing Processes For Man-made Fi
bres And Films Do Not Necessarily Involve The Formation Of A Neck.
Neckcloth
Term Used From The 17th Century Until Ca. 1840 To Describe Either A Cravat, Stoc
k, Kerchief Or Bandanna Worn Around The Neck.
Necking (synthetic Fibres)
The Sudden Reduction In Diameter That May Occur When An Undrawn Filament Is Stre
tched.
Needled
A Type Of Nonwoven In Which The Fibers Are Entangled And Mechanically Bonded By
Needle Punching.
Needlepoint Lace
A Method Of Making Lace By Buttonhole Stitches Using An Embroidery Needle And Th
read On A Heavy Paper Base.
Neglig?e Cap
18th Century Term For A Cap Worn Within The House And Also Informally.
Nep
A Small Knot Of Entangled Fibres. (in The Case Of Cotton It Usually Comprises De
ad Or Immature Cotton Hairs.)
Nep
Small Knots Of Fiber Embedded In The Yarn. May Be Intentional Or Unintentional.
Neppy Yarn.
A Yarn In Which The Incidence Of Nep Occurs At A Relatively High Level And So Co
nstitutes A Fault., Note: Neppy Yarns Are Sometimes Used Purposely As Decoration
.
Nett Silk
Raw-silk Filaments Or Strands That Have Been Processed Into Yams By Twisting And
Folding Or Both. Also Descriptive Of Fabrics Produced From Nett Silk.
Neutral-dyeing Acid Dye
An Acid Dye That From A Neutral Bath Has Useful Substantivity For Wool, Silk Or
Polyamide.
New Zealand Flax
Phormium Tenax - An Indigenous New Zealand Plant And The Fibre Obtained From Its
Leaves Is Sometimes Called New Zealand Flax Or Hemp, Although Now Grown In Othe
r Countries.
Nightcap
Worn In Bed Or In The 16th To 18th Centuries Informally Within The House. Those
Worn By Men Were Often Exquisitely Embroidered.
Nimainimatana
A Kind Of Tunic, A Modified Version Of The Kurta (q.v.), Generally Made Of Fine
Material.
Ninon
A Lightweight, Smooth, Plain Weave, Open Mesh Fabric. It Is Usually Of Synthetic
Fiber. Used For Evening Wear, Curtains, Lingerie.
Nip
The Line Or Area Of Contact Or Proximity Between Two Contiguous Surfaces That Mo
ve So As To Compress And/or Control The Velocity Of Textile Material Passed Betw
een Them.
Nip Roller
One Of A Pair Of Rollers Intended To Run With Their Cylindrical Surfaces In Cont
act Or Separated Yarn Or Other Textile Material., Note: The Two Rollers Are Inte
nded To Have The Same Surface Speed And One Normally Drives Other By Frictional
Contact.
No Wale Corduroy
A Corduroy With A Short All Over Cut Pile And Thus No Visible Wale.
Noil (wool)
The Shorter Fibres Separated From The Longer Fibres In Combing.
Noil; Bourette (silk)
The Fibres Extracted During Silk Dressing Or That Are Too Short For Producing Sp
un Silk. These Fibres Usually Spun On The Condenser System To Produce What Are K
nown As Silk Noil Yarns.
Non-ionic Dye
A Dye That Does Not Dissociate Electrolytically In Aqueous Solution.
Nonwoven Fabric
In General, A Textile Structure Made Directly From Fibre Rather Than Yarn. Fabri
cs Are Normally Made From Extruded Continuous Filaments Or From Fibre Webs Or Ba
tts Strengthened By Bonding Using Various Techniques: These Include Adhesive Bon
ding, Mechanical Interlocking By Needling Or Fluid Jet Entanglement, Thermal Bon
ding And Stitch Bonding., Note: Opinions Vary As To The Range Of Fabrics To Be C
lassified As Nonwoven. The Controversial Areas Are: (i) Wet-laid Fabrics, Contai
ning Wood Pulp, In Which The Boundary With Paper Is Not Clear, (ii) Stitch-bonde
d Fabrics, Which Contain Some Yarn For Bonding Purposes; (iii) Needled Fabrics C
ontaining Reinforcing Fabric.
Nonwoven Fabric Thermally-bonded
Textile Fabric Composed Of A Web Or Batt Of Fibres Containing Heat-sensitive Mat
erial, Bonded By The Application Of Heat, With Or Without Pressure. The Heat-sen
sitive Materials May Be In The Form Of Fibres, Bicomponent Fibres Or Powders.
Nottingham Lace
A Wide Machine Made Lace. Originally Made In Nottingham England.

Novelty
A General Term That Refers To A Fabric That Is Not Basic Or Common, I.e. One Tha
t Has Unusual Or Special Effects In The Yarn, Weave, Coloring Or Finishing.
Number Of Yarn
See Count
Nun's Veiling
A Plain Weave, Lightweight, Sheer Fabric Of High Quality Usually Found In Black
Or White. May Be Made Of Wool Silk Cotton Or Synthetics. Named For It's Original
Use By Religious Orders .
Nylon (synthetic Fibre) (generic Name)
See Polyamide (synthetic Fibre)
Nytril (fibre) (US)
A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres Containing At Least 85% Of A Long-ch
ain Polymer Of 1,1-dichloroethene (vinylidene Dinitrile) Where The Vinylidene Di
nitrile Content Is No Less Than Every Other Unit In The Polymer Chain
Oatmeal Cloth
A Heavy, Soft Fabric With A Specked Pebbly Surface. Used For Drapery, Upholstery
.
Odhani
A Veil-cloth For A Woman, Often Worn Tucked Into The Side Of The Waist And Drawn
Upward Over The Back And The Head, The Free End Being Draped Over The Shoulder.
Literally, 'a Wrap'.
Oil Coated
The Application Of Oil To A Fabric (usually Linseed Oil) To Seal It And Made It
Waterproof.
Oil Repellent
A Treatment That Allows A Fabric To Resist Staining By Oily Substances.
Oilcloth
A General Term For Any Oil Coated Fabric.
Oiled Silk; Oiled Viscose
Silk And Viscose Fabrics, Respectively, Made Impervious To Water By Treatment Wi
th A Drying Oil.
Oiled Wool
Unscoured Or Undyed Knitting Wool Or Wool Dyed Before Spinning And Containing Ad
ded Oil Not Subsequently Removed.
Oil-repellent
Descriptive Of Textile Material On Which Oil Globules Do Not Spread.
Olefin (fibre) (us.)
A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres In Which The Fibre-forming Substance
Is Any Long-chain Synthetic Polymer Composed Of At Least 85% By Weight Of Ethen
e (ethylene), Propane (propylene), Or Other Olefin Units. The Term Includes The
Iso Generic Names Are Polypropylene And Polyethylene
Oligomer
A Simple Polymer Containing A Small Number Of Repeating Units., Note: The Oligom
er Most Frequently Encountered In The Textile Industry Is The Cyclic Trimer Of P
oly(ethylene Benzene-1,4-dicarboxylate) (poly(ethylene Terephthalate)), The Poly
mer Used For Polyester Fibre. This Material Can Form Deposits During The Process
ing And Dyeing Of Yarns And Fabrics.
Ombre
Refers To A Gradual Change In Shade From Light To Dark Or From One Color To Anot
her. May Be Done As A Yarn Dye Or In Printing.
Ombr?
A French Term Meaning Shaded. It Is Used In Relation To Textiles (a) As An Adjec
tive To Describe Fabrics With A Dyed, Printed, Or Woven Design In Which The Colo
ur Is Graduated From Light To Dark And Often Into Stripes Of Varying Shades: And
(b) As A Noun, Meaning (i) Shaded Or (ii) A Fabric With Shaded Design.
On-call Cotton
Raw Cotton Purchased Under A Procedure Whereby The Price (points On Or Off Futur
es) Is Between Buyer And Seller, But The Actual Futures Price Is Left To Be Fixe
d Within A Stipulated Period. Buyer Has The Right To 'call' (i.e., Demand Fixati
on Of The Futures Price) At Any Time Within Stipulated Period.
Onium Dye
A Cationic Dye That Is Solubilized By A Labile Ammonium, Sulphonium, Phosphonium
, Or Oxonium Substituent Which Splits Off During Fixation To Leave An Insoluble
Colorant In The Fibre.
Open Boil
Scouring Of Cellulosic Textiles With Alkaline Liquors In Open-topped Vessels At
Or Near The Boiling. Note: Scours At Temperatures Lower Than The Boil Are Usuall
y Referred To As 'steeps'.
Open End
A High Speed Yarn Spinning Process That Creates Yarn By Transferring Twist From
Previously Formed Yarn To Fiber Or Sliver Continuously Fed Into The Spinning Mac
hine. The Twisting May Be Done By Mechanical Methods, Rotors Or Air Jets.
Open-end Spinning; Break Spinning
A Spinning System In Which Sliver Feedstock Is Highly Drafted, Ideally To Indivi
dual Fibre State, And Thus Creates An Open End Or Break In The Fibre Flow. The F
ibres Are Subsequently Assembled On The End Of A Rotating Yarn And Twisted In. V
arious Techniques Are Available For Collecting And Twisting The Fibres Into A Ya
rn, The Most Noteworthy Being Rotor Spinning And Friction Spinning.
Opening
The Action Of Separating Closely Packed Fibres From Each Other At An Early Stage
In The Processing Of Raw Material Into Yam.
Open-width Processing
The Treatment Of Fabric At Its Full Width In The Unfolded State In Contrast To R
ope-form Processing. The Fabric May Be Carried On Rollers Through The Processing
Media Or Be Held On A Roller, As In Dyeing.
Optical Brightener
A Substance That Is Added To An Uncoloured Or A Coloured Textile Material To Inc
rease The Apparent Reflectance In The Visible Region By Conversion Of Ultra-viol
et Radiation Into Visible Light And So To Increase The Apparent Brightness Or Wh
iteness. Also Termed Fluorescent Brightener; Optical Whitener; Fluorescent White
ning Agent; Brightening Agent
Organdy
A Thin, Very Stiff, Lightweight, Plain Weave Fabric Usually Of Cotton Or Cotton
Blends. It Is Often Treated To Make The Crisp Finish Permanent. Used For Apparel
Trim Such As Collars And Cuffs, Evening Wear, Dresses, Curtains.
Organza
A Thin, Plain Weave, Sheer Fabric Of Silk Or Synthetic Filament Yarn Such As Pol
yester Or Nylon . Used For Evening Or Party Wear, Bridal Wear, Curtains, Milline
ry.
Orientation
(1) Parallelism Of Fibres, Usually As A Result Of A Combing Or Attenuating Actio
n On Fibre Assemblies Causing The Fibres To Lie Substantially Parallel To The Ax
is Of The Web Or Strand. (2) A Predominant Direction Of Linear Molecules In The
Fine Structure Of Fibres. Note 1: In Man-made Fibres Orientation Is Usually Para
llel To The Fibre Axis As A Result Of Extrusion Stretching, Or Drawing. In Natur
al Fibres The Predominant Direction Is Determined During Growth, For Example A H
elix Around The Fibre Axis In Cotton. Note 2: Unoriented Structures Are Those In
Which Orientation Is Absent. Disoriented Structures Are Those In Which Orientat
ion Has Been Reduced Or Eliminated As A Result Of A Disrupting Treatment
Osnaburg
A Coarse, Strong, Plain Weave, Medium To Heavy Weight Fabric, Usually Of Cotton
. Used For Industrial Purposes, Drapery And Upholstery.
Ottoman
A Medium To Heavy Weight Fabric With Wide Horizontal Ribs . May Be Knit Or Woven
. Used For Women's Apparel, Upholstery, Drapery.
Outline Embroidered
A Fabric With A Design Motif Traced (outlined) With Embroidery Stitches.
Outline Quilted
A Quilted Fabric In Which The Quilting Stitches Follow The Motif Of A Print Desi
gn.
Oven-dry Weight
The Constant Weight Of Textile Material Obtained By Drying At A Temperature Of 1
05 ? 3?c.
Overdyed
Dyeing Of A Print Or Yarn Dyed Fabric In A Shade Which Does Not Totally Cover Th
e Original Design.
Overprinted
Usually Refers To Printing Over A Previously Dyed Fabric, However Yarn Dyes, Cro
ss Dyes And Previously Printed Fabrics Are Also Sometimes Overprinted.
Oxford
A Fabric With A Single Filling Yarn Woven Over And Under 2 Smaller Warp Yarns. C
ommonly Found In Cotton Shirtings, But Oxfords Are Produced In A Wide Variety O
f Fibers And Weights For Many Uses, Mainly In Apparel.
Paan-shaped
Of The Shape Of A Betel-leaf.
Pack (man-made Fibre Spinning)
A Replaceable Assembly, Usually Comprising Filter Media, Spreader Plates, And On
e Or More Spinnerets
Pack Dyeing
A Method Of Dyeing In Which The Liquor Is Circulated Through The Goods. Note: Th
e Use Of The Term 'pressure Dyeing In This Connection Is Deprecated.
Package Dyeing
A Method Of Dyeing In Which The Liquor Is Circulated Radially Through A Wound Pa
ckage.
Pad
Abbreviated Form Of Padding Mangle Or Padding. Note:. It Is Often Used In Conjun
ction With Other Process Terms To Describe Sequential Operations In Dyeing, Or F
inishing, E.g., Pad-bake, Pad-batch, Pad-dry, And Pad-steam. It Is Occasionally
Used Also To Describe Processes Carried Out On A Padding Mangle As Opposed To Ba
tchwise Treatment padder
Padding
Impregnation Of A Substrate With A Liquor Or A Paste Followed By Squeezing, Usua
lly By Passage Through A Nip, To Leave A Specific Quantity Of Liquor Or Paste On
The Substrate.
Padding Mangle
A Form Of Mangle For The Impregnation Of Textiles In Open Width In Which The Tex
tile Is Passed Through One Or More Nips. The Textile May Be Saturated Before Pas
sing Through The Nip, Or Impregnating Liquid May Be Carried As A Film On The Sur
face Of One Of The Bowls Forming The Nip.
Pagri
Turban.
Pyjama
Trouser-like Garment, Worn On The Lower Part Of The Body Alike By Men And Women.
Literally, 'leg-clothing'. The Pyjama Was Worn In Many Cuts And Shapes, Much Va
riation Being Seen In Respect Of Girth, Length, Tightness, Material, Etc.
Pairhaniphiran
Loose Cloak-like Shirt Reaching Down To The Feet. Very Popular As An Article Of
Wear In Kashmir Where It Was Made Mostly Of Woolen Cloth.
Paisley
A Design Originating In Asia, Traditionally In A Teardrop Shape With A Curving P
oint Containing And Surrounded By Many Small Abstract And Geometric Designs.
Palatine
Little Fur Stole Which Takes Its Name From The Princess Palatine Who, During The
Hard Winter Of 1676, Wore A Fur As A Cravat.
Pan (fibre)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Havin
g In The Chain At Least 85% (by Mass) Of Recurring Cyanoethene (acrylonitrile) G
roups.
Panama
A Plain Weave Fabric Traditionally Of Cotton Or Wool. Used For Summer Suitings A
nd Dresses.
Paniers
Underskirts Stretched Over Metal Hoops Which Appeared Around 1718-20 In France A
nd Remained In Fashion Under Various Forms Until The French Revolution.
Panne
A Fabric Which Has Had The Surface Flattened By Heavy Roller Pressure Giving It
Luster . Often Done On Pile Fabrics, Knits, Or Satins.
Panne Velvet
A Lightweight Velvet That Has Had The Pile Flattened In One Direction.
Pantholops Hogsoni
See Shahtoosh
Pantofles
Female Heelless Slippers Or Mules Worn During The 17th Century, But Getting Even
More Fashionable Toward The End Of The Period. They Were Made From Brocade And
Embroidered Leather.
Paper Yarn
A Yarn Consisting Of One Or More Continuous Lengths Of Paper Strip, Or A Yam Inc
orporating One Or More Continuous Lengths Of Paper Strip As A Major Component. N
ote1.. Paper In Normal Widths Is Wound Into Rolls Of Substantial Length, And Cut
Or 'slit' Into Strips Ranging From 0.5 Mm Wide Upwards. By Appropriate Treatmen
t (which May Include 'turning-over' The Edges Or The Application Of Adhesives Or
Water Or Both), Strips Are Twisted Sufficiently To Make A Round-section, Tubula
r Form Of Yam. Coloured Paper Mat Be Used. Note 2: Single Paper Yarns May Be Dou
bled, And One Or More Twisted With Textile Yarn(s) Around A Core Yarn.
Paper-like
Refers To Fabric With A Crisp, Noisy Hand That Suggests Paper.
Parachute Cloth
Lightweight, Strong, Compact Fabric Used For Outerwear, Luggage And Parachutes.
Parallel Line Gratings.
Transparent Plates Containing Uniformly Spaced Parallel Lines In The Cross-wise
Direction. It Is Possible To Determine The Number Of Threads Per Unit Length (cm
Or Inch) In A Fabric By Selecting An Appropriate Grating And Placing It Paralle
l To A Set Of Threads. The Number Of Lines Appearing On The Grating Indicates Th
e Difference Between The Total Number Of Lines On The Grating And The Total Numb
er Of Threads In The Area Covered By The Grating. By Placing A Grating At A Smal
l Angle To A Set Of Threads, Irregularities In Their Spacing Can Be Detected.
Parchmentizing
A Finishing Treatment, Comprising A Short Contact With, E.g., Sulphuric Acid Of
High Concentration, Whose Aim Is To Produce A Variety Of Effects, Depending On T
he Type Of Fabric And The Conditions Used Ranging From A Linen-like Handle To A
Transparent Organdie Effect. The Treatment Is Applied Mainly To Cotton. Reagents
Other Than Sulphuric Acid Will Also Produce The Effect.
Partially Oriented Yarn - Poy
A Continuous-filament Yam Made By Extruding A Synthetic Polymer So That A Substa
ntial Degree Of Molecular Orientation Is Present In The Resulting Filaments, But
Further Molecular Orientation Is Possible. Note.1, The Resulting Yarn Will Usua
lly Require A Positive Draw-ratio In Subsequent Processing In Order To Orient Fu
lly The Molecular Structure And Optimize Tensile Properties. Note 2: Yarns Of Th
is Type Made By High-speed Spinning Are Commonly Used As A Feedstock For Produci
ng Draw-textured Yarns.
Passacaille
Fashionable Dance (passacaglia), Whose Name Was Given To The Cord Attaching The
Muff To The Waist During Louis Xiv's Reign.
Passement
Originally This Was The Name For All Kinds Of Lace In The 16th And 17th Centurie
s. No Matter If It Was Made From Linen Threads, Silk Or Metal. Gradually, The Na
me Dentelle Was Given To Lighter Work Made With Shuttles Or Needle, While Passem
ent Developed Into Passementerie Which Describes All Kinds Of Woven Ornament.
Patchwork
Various Colors Or Designs Combined Together In One Design . May Be Print Or Yarn
Dye.
Patka
A Girdle Or Kamarband, Worn Usually Over Pyjama (q.v.), And Often Very Sumptuous
And Decorative.
Peach Skin
A Soft, Sueded Finish Resulting From Sanding Or Chemical Treatment Of The Fabric
.
Peached
A Soft Sueded Hand That Suggests The Downy Skin Of A Peach.
Pearlized Coating
A Fabric Coating With A Surface Luster Suggestive Of A Pearl . Used A as Face Fo
r Outerwear Fabrics.
Pearls
Referring To Fabric Embellished With Pearls.
Peau De Soie
A French Term, Meaning Literally 'skin Of Silk' Applied Originally To A Fine Sil
k Fabric In A Modified Weave That Had A Ribbed Or Grained Appearance And Was Som
etimes Reversible. The Term Nowadays Includes Fabrics Made From Man-made Fibre Y
ams. It Is Recommended That In Such Contexts The Name Of The Fibre Should Be Ind
icated.
Pebble Crepe
See Moss Crepe/ Pebble Crepe.
Pebbly
Refers To A Fabric Surface With A Grainy, Crepey Texture.
Percale
A Smooth, Closely Woven, Plain Weave Fabric Often Of Cotton. Often Used As A Pri
nt Cloth For Apparel And Sheets.
Percentage Cover
Cover Factor As A Percentage Of The Maximum Possible For A Particular Weave Stru
cture
Percentage Moisture Content
The Weight Of Moisture In A Material Expressed As A Percentage Of The Total Weig
ht
Perch
(1)a Manually Or Mechanically Operated Contrivance Consisting Of A System Of Rol
lers Over Which Fabric Is Drawn At Open Width For The Purpose Of Inspection. (2)
To Inspect Fabric In A Vertical (hanging) Position Or At An Angle Inclined Upwa
rds Away From The Source Of Light. Note: The Inclined Position On A Manual Perch
Is Obtained By Holding The Fabric Forward When Required. On A Mechanical Perch
The Angle Is Fixed By A Low Front Roller. The Purpose Of Perching Is To Inspect
The Product At Different Stages Of Manufacture And Processing.
Perforated/punched
Holes Or Small Motifs Are Punched Out Of The Fabric With A Metal Roller Forming
A Design Or Pattern.
Permanent Press
A Deprecated Alternative To Durable Press.
Permanent Set
The Process Of Conferring Stability Of Form Upon Fibres, Yarns, Or Fabrics, Usua
lly By Means Of Successive Heating And Cooling In Moist Or Dry Conditions.
Peshwaz
Long Gown-like Dress, Consisting Essentially Of A Choli (q.v.) Worn Rather High
To Which A Front-opening Skirt Is Attached. The Garment Was Worn At An Early Poi
nt By Men, Too, But Is Essentially To Be Regarded As Women's Apparel. Worn With
Much Refinement And Elegance 'on Occasions Of Household Festivals'. Literally, "
front-opening".
Petia
An Apron-like Piece Of Cloth Attached To The Lower End Of A Choli (q.v.) Or Kanj
ari (q.v.) And Hanging Down So As To Partially Cover The Stomach.
Petite Oie
Set Of Ribbons Which, In The Mid 17th Century, Was Used To Trim Men's Suits And
Which Became Very Large When Petticoat Breeches Were Worn.
Petite Point
A Small, Slanting, Needlepoint Stitch That Form Even Lines Of A Solid Background
. Used For Pillows, Slipcovers.
Petticoat Breeches, Also Rhinegraves
Fashionable In Mid 17th Century To Around 1675, Either A Skirt-like Construction
Or A Divided Skirt With Full, Wide Breeches And Attached Canons Underneath. The
Legs Were Loose And Flowing.
Pfleidering
The Process Of Shedding Pressed Alkali-cellulose In A Machine Named A Pfleiderer
, After Its Inventor.
Phormium Tenax
See New Zealand Flax Or Hemp, Although Now Grown In Other Countries.
Photodegradation
Degradation Caused By The Absorption Of Light Or Other Radiation And By Conseque
nt Chemical Reactions. Ultra-violet Radiation Is An Especially Potent Cause.
Phulkari
Literally, "flowered Work". Term Used For A Type Of Embroidery Practiced By Wome
n In The Punjab For Head-veils And Other Garment-pieces. The Embroidery Is Worke
d In Floss-silk Upon Coarse Cotton Cloth, In Darning Stitch Over Counted Threads
, Being Worked From The Back Of The Fabric.
Pick
To Pass The Weft Through The Warp Shed In Weaving.
Picklock Wool
A Term Used In Wool-sorting, Mainly In The UK., For Second-best Sorts From Fleec
es.
Picotage
A Speckled Effect On The Surface Of A Pile Fabric Owing To Differential Light Re
flection From Tips Of Tufts.
Piece (flax)
The Small Handful That Is The Unit Of Scutched Flax
Piece Dyeing
Dyeing In Fabric Form.
Piece Glass
See Counting Glass
Piece;
A Length Of Fabric Of Customarily Accepted Unit Length. Note: A Frequent Contrac
t Practice Is For The Purchaser To Specify A Minimum Piece Length Below Which No
Pieces Will Be Accepted. Alternatively, A 'cut-through' Allowance Is Specified,
The Seller Has To Make In The Case Of All Pieces Less Than The Specified Figure
. The Reason For Such Practices Is The Greater Liability To Waste In Cutting Out
From Short-length Pieces Than Standard-length Pieces. The Term 'piece' Is Appli
ed At All Stages Of Fabric Manufacture Although Often Qualified, E.g., Grey Piec
e, Or Loomstate Piece, The Qualification Is Understood In Commercial Practice.
Piece-goods
Fabric Sold By Or From The Piece.
Pieces
Small Bunches Of Wool Staple Taken During Sorting From Various Fleeces And Sold
In Lots.
Pierced Cocoons
Cocoons From Which The Moths Have Been Allowed To Emerge So That They May Reprod
uce.
Pigment
A Substance In Particulate Form That Is Substantially Insoluble In A Medium, But
Which Is Mechanically Dispersed In This Medium To Modify Its Colour And/or Ligh
t-scattering Properties
Pigment Dyed
An Insoluble Colorant Is Applied To The Fabric As A Paste Or Emulsion, Heat Cure
d And Bound To The Fabric With Resins Or Binders. The Curing Process Can Be Cont
rolled So The Color Will Fade After Washing, Giving The Garments A Used Worn Loo
k.
Pigment Padding
The Application Of An Aqueous Dispersion Of A Pigment To A Fabric By Padding., N
ote: Lt Is Commonly Used To Describe The First Stage Of A Process For The Applic
ation Of Vat Dyes To Fabrics, Followed By Fixation Of The Vat Dye Through Its Le
uco Form. It Is Also Used In The Application Of Resin-bonded Pigments.
Pigment Printed
An Insoluble Colorant Is Printed On The Fabric As A Paste Or Emulsion, Heat Cure
d And Bound To The Fabric With Resins Or Binders. Allows For The Printing Of Fab
rics With Fiber Blends That Would Be Otherwise Difficult Or Expensive To Print.
Pigtail
A Yarn-guide In The Form Of A Short Open-ended Helix.
Pile
A Surface Effect On A Fabric Formed By Tufts Or Loops Of Yarn That Stand Up From
The Body Of The Fabric., Note: Originally Nap And Pile Were Used Synonymously,
But The Present Trend Of Using The Two Terms For Different Concepts Is To Be Enc
ouraged As Providing A Means Of Differentiating And Avoidance Of Confusion.
Pill; Pilling
Small Accumulations Of Fibres On The Surface Of A Fabric. Pills Can Develop Duri
ng Wear, And Are Held To The Fabric By An Entanglement With The Surface Fibres O
f The Material
Pima Cotton
A Fine Long Staple Cotton, Originally Derived By Crossing American And Egyptian
Species. Named For Pima County Arizona. Used In Fine Shirtings And Dress Fabrics
.
Pin Drafting
Any System Of Drafting, (e.g. Gilling), In Which The Direction Of The Fibres Rel
ative To One Another In A Sliver Is Controlled By Pins.
Pincord/pinwale
Fabric With A Very Narrow Wale Or Rib. Used In Describing Piques, Corduroys Or O
ther Ribbed Fabrics. Also Called Baby Cord.
Pineapple Fibre
A Fibre From The Leaf Of The Plant Acanas Comosus, Capable Of Being Processed In
to Fine Fabrics.
Pinpoint Oxford
An Oxford Weave Fabric Using Fine Yarns Resulting In A Small Oxford Texture. Usu
ally Cotton . Used For Fine Shirtings.
Pinstripe
A Design Using Fine Line Vertical Stripes, Usually Light Color Stripes On A Dark
Ground.
Pique
A Fabric Characterized By A Prominent, All-over Geometric Texture. It Is Most Co
mmonly Woven On A Dobby Loom But It Is Also Produced As A Double Knit. The Most
Common Textures Are Cords ( Either Vertical Or Horizontal) , Birdseye, Waffle, H
oneycomb And Bullseye. Produced In A Variety Of Weights And Fibers.
Pirn;
(1) A Support, Slightly Tapered, With Or Without A Conical Base, On Which Yarn I
s Spun Or Wound For Use As A Weft.(2) The Weft Package Wound On The Support Defi
ned In (1). (3) A Relatively Long But Narrow Package Of Yarn Taken Up On A Cylin
drical Former During Draw-twisting Of Continuous Filament Yarns.
Plaid
A Pattern Of Stripes And Bars That Cross Each Other At Right Angles.
Plain Stitch
A Knitting Stitch That Shows A Series Of Lengthwise Ribs On The Face( From The N
eck Of The Yarn Loops), And Cross Wise Loops On The Back ( From The Head Of The
Yarn Loops).
Plain Weave
The Simplest Form Of Weaving In Which A Pick ( Filling Yarn) Passes Over The Fir
st End ( Warp Yarn), Under The Second And On Continuously, Over One End And Unde
r The Next. The Next Pick Alternates , Passing Under The First End, Over The Sec
ond , And On Continuously Under And Over Each End . Each Filling Row Alternates,
Thus Extending The Fabric. Also Called A One Up One Down Weave.
Planchette
French Word For Boned And Stiffened Corset.
Plied
Refers To A Yarn Consisting Of 2 Or More Single Yarns Twisted Together.
Plisse
A Fabric With A Puckered Or Pleated Effect Resulting From Printing The Fabric Wi
th Caustic Soda . The Printed Part Of The Fabric Shrinks, Causing The Unprinted
Part To Pucker.
Plumpers
Small Balls Of Wax That Were Placed In The Cheeks By Some Women To Give The Face
A Fashionable Rounded Shape From 1660-1700.
Plush
1. A Fabric With A Thick Cut Pile, Used In Apparel, Draperies, Upholstery, Stuff
ed Toys . May Be Woven Or Knit. 2. Brushed Or Sheared Fabrics Are Also Sometimes
Referred To As Plush.
Plush Hand
Refers To A Thick, Resistant, Soft Luxurious Hand.
Pockets
Even In The 17th Century Were The Pockets Still A Small Independent Bag Attached
To The Gusset. It Is Only With The Appearance Of The Justaucorps That Pockets A
re To Be Found, Usually Vertical At First, Then Mostly Horizontal (from The 1680
s Onwards). Women's Pockets, In The 18th Century, Were Attached On A String And
Worn Over The Panier, To Be Reached By A Slit On Both Sides Of The Dress.
Point De Neige
Soft And Fine Lace With A Small Design ("snow Flake"), Fashionable At The End Of
The 17th Century.
Point D'esprit
A Machine Made Net With Small All-over Dots.
Pointelle
A Knit Fabric With A Pattern Of Holes Or Openings Made By Using Transfer Stitche
s.
Polished Cotton
A Cotton Fabric With A Luster. The Luster May Be Due To The Weave (often Satin),
Or From Application Of A Calendered Finish, Or Both. The Degree Of Luster Can B
e Moderate Or Bright.
Polishing
The Treatment Of Tanned Skins, Or Of Fabrics, Particularly Pile Fabrics, To Incr
ease Luster By Mechanical Means, Without Compressing The Material.
Polishing (yarn)
Operation(s) For Conferring On Yams A Relatively High Degree Of Smoothness Of Su
rface.
Poly(vinyl Alcohol)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Of Po
lyethenol (poly Vinyl Alcohol) Of Differing Levels Of Acetalization. The Iso Gen
eric Name Is Vinyl.
Polyacrylonitrile Fibre; Pan Fibre
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Havin
g In The Chain At Least 85% (by Mass) Of Recurring Cyanoethene (acrylonitrile) G
roups.
Polyamide
A Synthetic Linear Polymer In Which The Linkage Of The Simple Chemical Compound
Or Compounds Used In Its Production Takes Place Through The Formation Of Amide G
roups, E.g.,
Polyamide (synthetic Fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Havin
g In The Chain Recurring Amide Groups, At Least 85% Of Which Are Attached To Ali
phatic Or Cyclo-aliphatic Groups. , Note.. This Limited Definition Was Introduce
d By Iso In 1977 As A Consequence Of The Creation Of A Separate Class For Aramid
Fibres.
Polyamide, Natural (fibre)
Natural Fibres Consisting Of Polymers Containing The Repeating Group -co-nh-. Ex
amples Are Silk, Wool, And Other Animal Hairs.
Polycarbamide (generic Name); Polyurea (fibre)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Havin
g In The Chain Recurring Aliphatic Groups Joined By Ureylene Groups Which Togeth
er Comprise At Least 85% (by Mass) Of The Chain.
Polyester
A Polymer Whose Repeating Units Contain Ester Linkages In The Main Chains Of The
Macromolecules. , Note: Cross-linkable Polyesters Are Resin-forming And Linear
Polyesters Are Fibre-forming
Polyester (fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Havin
g In The Chain At Least 85% (by Mass) Of An Ester Of A Diol And Benzene-1,4-dica
rboxylic Acid (terephthalic Acid)., Note 1: This Term Is More Restrictive Than T
he Chemical Definition Of Polyester Note 2.. In The U.s., The Generic Term Is Mo
re Broadly Defined To Encompass The Use Of Aromatic Dicarboxylic Acids Other Tha
n Benzene- 1,4-dicarboxylic Acid And Also To Include Certain Aromatic Polyethere
ster Fibres.
Polyethylene (fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Of Un
substituted Aliphatic Saturated Hydrocarbon.
Polymer
A Large Molecule Built Up By The Repetition Of Small, Simple, Chemical Units.
Polymer, Atactic
See Atactic Polymer
Polymer, Syndiotactic
Polymerization
The Process Used To Link Small, Simple, Chemical Molecules Into A Polymer
Polymerization, Batch
A Process For Making Polymer In Batches.
Polymerization, Continuous
A Process For Making Polymer In Which The Reactants Are Fed Continuously To, And
The Product Is Withdrawn Continuously From, A Vessel Or Series Of Vessels
Polynosic (fibre)
A Term Used To Describe Regenerated Cellulose Fibres Characterized By A High Ini
tial Wet Modulus Of Elasticity And A Relatively Low Degree Of Swelling In Sodium
Hydroxide Solution. The Is0 Generic Name Is Modal.
Polyolefin (fibre)
A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres In Which The Fibre-forming Substance
Is Any Long-chain Synthetic Polymer Composed Of At Least 85% By Weight Of Ethen
e (ethylene), Propene (propylene), Or Other Olefin Units. The Term Includes The
Iso Generic Names Are Polypropylene And Polyethylene
Polypropylene (fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Havin
g An Aliphatic Saturated Hydrocarbon Chain In Which Alternate Carbon Atoms Carry
A Methyl Group, Generally In An Isotactic Disposition And Without Further Subst
itution.
Polytetrafluoroethylene (fibre)
A Fibre Made From A Synthetic Linear Polymer In Which The Chief Repeating Unit I
s -
Polyurea (fibre); Polycarbamide (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Havin
g In The Chain Recurring Aliphatic Groups Joined By Ureylene Groups Which Togeth
er Comprise At Least 85% (by Mass) Of The Chain.
Polyurethane (fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Havin
g In The Chain Recurring Aliphatic Groups Joined By Urethane Groups Which Togeth
er Comprise At Least 85% (by Mass) Of The Chain.
Pomander
From The French Word "pomme" For Apple, Still In Use In The First Half Of The 17
th Century By Ladies. Small Balls Of Perfume Placed In Decorated, Perforated Box
es And Worn Around The Waist On Chains.
Pongee
Originally And Traditionally A Light-weight Fabric Hand-woven In China Of Wild S
ilk In Plain Weave. The Term Is Now Also Applied To Fabrics Having A Similar Wei
ght And Appearance, Power-woven, And Made With Yams Other Than Silk. If Of Cotto
n, These Fabrics Are Usually Mercerized And Schreinered.
Pongee
1. A Plain Weave, Light To Medium Weight Silk Fabric With Slubs And Nubs On The
Surface. Often Found In A Natural Light Tan Color. 2. A Plain Weave Light To Med
ium Weight Fabric With A Smooth Surface . May Be Of Cotton Or Manufactured Fiber
s Such As Polyester . Used For Dresses, Blouses, Pajamas, Linings.
Ponte Di Roma
Weft Knitted, Interlock Based, Double Jersey Structure . Means "roman Bridge" Wh
ich Is Suggested By The Arrangement Of Loops . The Fabric Looks The Same On Both
Sides.
Poodle Cloth
A Fabric With A Curly Or Loop Pile Resembling The Coat Of A Poodle Dog.
Poor Boy
An Inexpensive Rib Knit Usually 2x3 Or 3x1 In A Fine To Medium Yarn.
Popcorn
A Fabric Utilizing Yarn With Thick Spots Suggesting Popcorn. Usually A Knit But
May Be Woven.
Poplin
A Plain Weave Fabric With A Fine, Crosswise Rib, The Result Of Using Finer Warp
Yarns And Heavier Weft Yarns And A Higher Thread Count In The Warp Than The Weft
. Usually Medium Weight. Made In A Variety Of Fibers But Common In Cotton And C
otton Blends . A Common Shirting Fabric.
Poplin
A Plain-weave Fabric With Weftway Ribs And High Warp Sett
Potting
A Finishing Process Applied Mainly To Woollen Fabrics. The Dyed Fabric (which Ma
y Have Crabbed) Is Batched On A Roller And Is Then Immersed In Water. The Temper
ature Of The Liquor An Duration Of Treatment Depend On The Effect Desired. The F
abric Is Cooled On The Roller And Re-batched End For End And The Process Is Repe
ated. The Fabric Is Finally Wound Off The Roller And Dried.
Powder Bonding
A Method Of Making Thermally-bonded Nonwoven Fabric In Which The Fibre Web Or Ba
tt Is Bonded By The Use Of Heat-sensitive Powder Dispersed Within It.
Poy
See Partially Oriented Yarn
Prepared For Printing /dyeing
Fabric Which Has Been Made Ready For Dyeing Or Printing By Performing All Prelim
inary Processes On The Greige Such As Singeing, Desizing, Scouring, And Bleachin
g.
Preshrunk
A Term Applied To A Textile Material That Has Been Shrunk To Predetermined Dimen
sions In Order To Minimize Shrinkage In Use. Nowadays Fabrics Are Preshrunk By C
ompressive Shrinkage.
Pre-shrunk
The Fabric Is Allowed To Shrink During Finishing To Reduce Residual Shrinkage In
The Final Product.
Press Mark
Undesirable Shinning Lines On The Right Side Of The Garment Due To Incorrect Iro
ning.
Press Ratio (alkali-cellulose)
The Ratio Of The Weight Of Alkali-cellulose, After Excess Sodium Hydroxide (caus
tic Soda) Solution Has Been Pressed Out, To The Original Weight Of Pulp.
Pressing
The Application Of Pressure, With Or Without Steaming Or Heating, (i) To Remove
Unintended Creases And To Impart A Flat Appearance To Fabrics And Garments, (ii)
To Introduce Desirable Creases Garments.
Pressure Boil
The Scouring Of Cellulosic Textiles With Alkaline Liquors In Closed Vessels Unde
r Excess Pressure, Normally 140-210 Kpa.
Primary Cellulose Acetate
An Ester Formed From Cellulose And Ethanoic Acid (acetic Acid) Used To Make Acet
ate Fibres. , Note: Purified Cellulose Is Ethanoylated (acetylated) By Ethanoic
Anhydride (acetic Anhydride) In The Presence Of A Catalyst (such As Sulphuric Ac
id Or Perchloric Acid) In A Solvent Such As Dichloromethane (methylene Chloride)
Or Ethanoic Acid. The Reaction Proceeds Until Primary Cellulose Acetate Contain
ing 60% Of Combined Ethanoic Acid Is Formed. Secondary Cellulose Acetate Is Form
ed From The Primary Acetate By Partial Hydolysis. It Is Obtained By Adding Water
In Excess Of That Required To React With The Residual Ethanoic Anhydride, Which
Thus Allows The Hydrolysis To Take Place.
Print Bonding
A Method Of Making Nonwoven Fabrics In Which There Is Controlled Application Of
Adhesive Specific Areas Of The Fibre Web Or Batt By Using Printing Techniques Si
milar To Those Used Coloration.
Printed & Overdyed
Refers To Fabrics Which Have Been First Printed Then Overdyed Allowing The Desig
n To Show Through.
Printing
The Production Of A Design Or Motif On A Substrate By Application Of A Colorant
Or Other Reagent, Usually In A Paste Or Ink, In A Predetermined Pattern.
Producer Twist
The Small Amount Of Twist Inserted During The Production Of Multi-filament Yarn
By Certain Take-up Systems Such As Pot, Cap, Or Ring-and-traveler.
Proof
Fully Resistant To A Specified Agency, Either By Reason Of Physical Structure Or
Inherent Chemical Non-reactivity, Or Arising From A Treatment Designed To Impar
t The Desired Characteristics. Note 1: Proofing Treatments Are Defined By Specif
ied Limits Ascertained By Test, And The Use Of The Term Related To The Limiting
Conditions. Note2: 'resistant', 'retardant' Or 'repellent' Are Appropriate Alter
natives When The Resistance Is Less Than Full.
Proofed
Descriptive Of Material That Has Been Treated To Render It Resistant To A Specif
ied Agency. Note: A Designation Of Materials As 'proofed' Should Indicate That T
he Material Conforms To Definite Standards
Protein (fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Obtained From Natural Protein Substances By Chemi
cal Regeneration.
Ptfe
See Polytetrafluoroethylene
Pu Coated
Refers To A Fabric Which Has Been Coated With Polyurethane, Usually To Make It W
aterproof But Sometimes To Give A Firmer Hand.
Pucker
A Blister Or Puffed Effect On The Surface Of The Fabric . It May Be The Result O
f Chemical Treatment Of The Fabric Or The Result Of Using Different Yarns, Yarns
Under Different Tension, Or Yarns Of Different Shrinkage In One Fabric.
Pucker
To Draw Up Into Folds Or Wrinkles
Pucker Embroidery
Fabric Which Has Been Embroidered In A Such A Way That The Stitching Purposefull
y Causes A Crinkle Or Pucker In The Fabric.
Pull (sampling)
A Sample Of Fibres Abstracted Manually From A Bulk Lot Of Raw Material Or Sliver
With A View To Assessing The Length And/or Distribution Of Length Of Fibre With
in The Sample.
Pulling (rag)
The Operation Of Reducing Rags And Thread Waste To A Fibrous State.
Pulling (wool)
The Removal Of Wool From Skins. Note: Before Removal, The Fibres Are Loosened By
Treatment. The Skins May Be Placed On A Curved Board, And, With Ordinary Skins,
The Wool Is Pushed Or Rubbed With The Hands; With Short-wool Skins, A Blunt Kni
fe, Held With Both Hands, Is Used. When The Puller Is Seated And Pulls With His
Hands From The Skin Placed On His Knees, The Process Is Known As Knee Pulling.
Pulp (cotton) .
Purified Cotton Linters Usually In The Form Of Standard Sheets About 1 Mm Thick.
Note: The Preparation Of The Linters Involves One Or More Pressure Boils With S
odium Hydroxide (caustic Soda) Followed By Hypochlorite Bleaching, The Severity
And Number Of The Boils Depending On The Use To Which The Resultant Material Is
To Be Put. The Fibres Are Composed Of Glucose Units To The Exclusion Of Other Su
gars And Only 1-2% Of The Cellulose Is Soluble In Sodium Hydroxide (caustic Soda
) Of 17.5% Strength At 20?c. Suitability For A Specific Purpose Is Determined By
Measurement Of The Viscosity Of The Product Under Standard Conditions, And Diff
erent Viscosity Ranges Are Usually Specified For Material To Be Used For Man-mad
e Fibres, Lacquers, Etc. The Material Is Also Supplied In Pressed Bales.
Pulp (wood)
Cellulose Fibres Isolated From Wood By Chemical Treatments. Note 1: The Preparat
ion Of Wood Pulp Involves The Boiling Of Wood Chips With Alkaline Liquors Or Sol
utions Of Acidic Or Neutral Salts Followed By Bleaching With Chlorine Compounds,
The Object Of These Treatments Being To Remove More Or Less Completely The Hemi
celluloses And Lignin Incrustants Of The Wood. The Purified Fibres Are Usually P
ressed Into Standard Sheets About 1 Mm Thick, And Commercial Material Retains 4-
12% Of Carbohydrates Soluble In 17.5% Soda At 20?c, The Actual Content Depending
On The Severity Of The Purification Treatments. Note 2: Mechanical Wood Pulp Is
Obtained By Wet-grinding Bark-free Wood In Stone Or Other Mills. The Material I
s Used Largely In Admixtures With Bleached Pulp For Newsprint And Is Quite Diffe
rent From Wood Pulp As Defined Above In Note 1.
Pump Delivery (man-made Fibres)
The Volume Of Liquid Delivered By One Revolution Of A Spinning Pump.
Punching (wool Industry)
A Winding Operation That Prepares Four-end Balls Of Sliver For A Noble Comb.
Pyjama
The Word Derives From The Hindustani Epai-jama. Pyjamas Were Already Worn In Eng
land In The 17th Century And Were Called Moghul Breeches.
Qaba
A Full-sleeved Garment For Outer Wear, Worn By Men, Closely Related To Thejama .
William Thevenot Who Saw This Garment Frequently At The Moghul Court Spoke Of T
he "caba Of The Indians" Being "wider Than That Of The Persians, And 1 Cannot Te
ll How To Express The Manner Of It More Intelligibly, Than By Saying It Is A Kin
d Of Gown With A Long Jerkin Fastened To It
Qamis
A Shirt. Cf. French, Chemise.
Quench
A Cooling Zone In Which The Temperature Of Melt-spun Filaments Is Lowered Very R
apidly And/or At A Controlled Rate Soon After Extrusion. The Two Main Types Are
Water-quench And Air-quench.
Quilted
Two Or More Layers Of Fabric Which Have Been Stitched Through, Often With Battin
g . The Stitching Forms A Pattern, Most Commonly A Square Or Diamond Shape. Used
For Apparel, Bedspreads, Sleeping Bags. Thermoplastic Fibers Such As Polyester
Or Nylon Are Sometimes Quilted Without Thread By Using A Heat Bonding Method . T
he Heat Effectively Melts Or Welds The Fabric At The Point Of Application.
Rabat
In The 17th Century The Rabat Was A Collar Of Linen And Lace Worn Over The Doubl
et. Ecclesiastics Wore A Narrower Rabat And This Accessory For Ecclesiastical To
wn Dress Remained In Use For A Long Time Afterwards.
Rabbit Hair
Fur From The Common Or Wild Rabbit.
|Rack Stitch
A Knitting Stitch That Produces A Herringbone Effect With A Rib Back.
Raffia
A Fibre Obtained From The Leaves Of The Raffia Palm Raphia Raffia.
Rags (new)
The Waste Fabric, Whether Woven Or Knitted, That Is Left After A Garment Has Bee
n Cut Out. The Term Also Covers Piece Ends And Discarded Pattern Bunches.
Rags (old)
Worn Garments That Have Been Discarded.
Raising
The Production Of A Layer Of Protruding Fibres On The Surface Of Fabrics By Brus
hing, Teazing, Or Rubbing.
Ramie
A Bast Fibre Obtained From The Stems Of Boehmeria Nivea Gaud, Especially The Var
iety Tenacissima Belonging To The Urticaceae Or Nettle Family. It Usually Reache
s European Markets In The Form Of Ribbons.
Raschel
Refers To Knit Fabric Made A A Raschel Machine, A Warp Knitting Machine Capable
Of A Wide Variety Of Intricate Designs, Various Surface Textures, And Open Work
Effects.
Raschel Lace
A Lace Fabric Knit On A Raschel Machine. Usually Moderately Priced.
Rate Of Dyeing.
The Rate At Which A Dye Is Absorbed By A Substrate Under Specified Conditions. N
ote: It May Be Expressed Quantitatively In Several Ways, Such As The Weight Of D
ye Absorbed In Unit Time, Or The Time Taken For The Substrate To Absorb A Given
Fraction Of The Amount Of Dye Which It Will Absorb At Equilibrium.
Ratine
A Plain Weave , Loosely Constructed Fabric With A Rough, Nubby Texture Resulting
From The Use Of Ratine Yarn, A Knotted, Curly, Plied Yarn. Used For Drapery, Dr
esses And Women's Sportswear.
Raw Silk
Continuous Filaments Or Strands Containing No Twist, Drawn Off Or Reeled From Si
lk Cocoons.
Rayon (fibre) (USA)
A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres Composed Of Regenerated Cellulose, A
s Well As Manufactured Fibres Composed Of Regenerated Cellulose In Which Substit
uents Have Replaced Not More Than 15% Of The Hydrogens Of The Hydroxyl Groups. T
he Iso Generic Names Are Viscose, Modal And Cupro.
Reaction Spinning (man-made-fibre Production)
A Process In Which Polymerization Is Achieved During The Extrusion Of Reactants
Through A Spinneret System.
Reactive Dye
A Dye That, Under Suitable Conditions, Is Capable Of Reacting Chemically With A
Substrate
Reactive Dyed
Water Soluble Dyes That Bond Well To Cellulosic And Nylon Fibers. Provide Good B
rightness And Colorfastness.
Re-breaking
The Shortening Of Fibres In A Sliver Or Top By A Process Similar In Principle To
Stretch Breaking. Re-breaking May Be Intended To Shorten A Limited Number Of Ov
er Length Fibres Or To Reduce The Average Length.
Recommended Allowance
The Percentage That, In The Calculation Of Commercial Weight Of Textile Material
And Of Yarn Linear Density Is Added To The Oven-dry Weight. The Determination O
f This Weight May Or May Not Be Preceded By Washing To Remove Natural Or Added O
ils And Dressings. The Recommended Allowance Is Arbitrarily Chosen According To
Commercial Practice And Includes The Moisture Regain. It May Also Include The No
rmal Finish That Is Added To Impart Satisfactory Textile Qualities To The Materi
al.
Redox Potential
The Potential Developed When A Bright Platinum Electrode Is Immersed In A Soluti
on Containing An Ionic Species In Two Interconvertible Oxidation (valency) State
s. The Potential Is Dependent Upon The Ratio Of The Concentrations Of The Two Ox
idation States, E.g., Iron Ii And Iron Iii Ions; 4-dihydroxybenzene (hydroquinon
e) And 1,4-benzoquinone (p-benzoquinone); Vat Dye And Leuco Vat Dye. Note: The S
tandard Redox Potential, E, Is That Developed When The Concentrations Of The Two
Oxidation States Are Equal To Each Other, And In Vat Dye Systems Indicates The
Difficulty With Which The Vat Dye (the Oxidized State) Can Be Reduced.
Regain
The Weight Of Moisture Present In A Textile Material Expressed As A Percentage O
f The Oven-dry Weight
Regenerated Cellulose Fibre
A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres Composed Of Regenerated Cellulose, A
s Well As Manufactured Fibres Composed Of Regenerated Cellulose In Which Substit
uents Have Replaced Not More Than 15% Of The Hydrogens Of The Hydroxyl Groups. T
he Iso Generic Names Are Viscose, Modal And Cupro.
Regenerated Fibre
A Man-made Fibre Produced From A Naturally Occurring Fibre-forming Polymer By A
Process That Includes Regeneration Of The Original Polymer Structure.
Regenerated Protein Fibre
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Obtained From Natural Protein Substances By Chemi
cal Regeneration.
Relative Humidity
The Ratio Of The Actual Pressure Of The Water Vapour In The Atmosphere To The Sa
turation Water Vapour At The Same Temperature. The Ratio Is Usually Expressed As
A Percentage E.g. 65 % Rh.
Relaxation
The Releasing Of Stresses In Textile Materials.
Rep
A Plain Weave Fabric With Ridges In The Filling. Used For Drapery, Upholstery, N
eckties, Robes.
Repeating Unit
A Chemical Group That Recurs In The Backbone Of A Polymer.
Residual Shrinkage
The Latent Shrinkage Of A Fibre, Filament, Yam, Or Fabric.
|Resin Treated
A Fabric That Has Been Treated With A Synthetic Film-forming Polymer (resin) . T
his May Be Done To Make The Fabric Firmer, Heavier, More Stable, To Add Wrinkle
Resistance, To Reduce Shrinkage Or To Create Surface Effect Such As Embossing Or
Glazing.
Resist Printed
A Chemical Is Printed On Certain Areas Of The Fabric To Make Those Areas Resista
nt To Dye. Allows For The Printing Of Small Or Fine Motifs In The Design..
Retexturing
A Process For Treating Dry-cleaned Garments, Etc., To Improve Their Properties,
Particularly Water Repellence And Handle.
Retractive Force (textured Yarn)
The Tension In A Textured Yarn Due To The Formation Of Crimp In The Filaments Un
der Specified Conditions Of Crimp Development.
Retting (flax)
The Subjection Of Crop Or Deseeded Straw To Chemical Or Biological Treatment To
Make Fibre Bundles More Easily Separable From The Woody Part Of The Stem. Flax I
s Described As Water-retted, Dew-retted Or Chemically-retted, Etc., According To
The Process Employed.
Reused Wool
Wool Rags And Manufactured Waste, Torn Up And Reprocessed Into Fibres Again, And
Used For Such Fabrics As Are Composed Of Shoddy And Mungo Yarns.
Rhinegraves
See Petticoat Breeches. They Are Said To Derive From Holland Or Germany.
Rhinestones
Faceted, Highly Refractive, Imitation Gemstones That Are Attached To The Fabric
For Decorative Purposes.
Rib
1. Any Fabric With A Cord Or Ridge Effect . 2. A Knit Fabric Made With Plain Sti
tches Alternating With Purl Stitches. Rib Knits Have Natural Stretch Properties.
Ring Spinning
A Spinning System In Which Twist Is Inserted In A Yarn By Using A Revolving Trav
eller. The Yarn Is Wound On Since The Rotational Speed Of The Package Is Greater
Than That Of The Traveller.
Ring Spun
A Yarn Spinning Method In Which Roving ( A Thin Strand Of Fiber With Very Little
Twist) Is Fed To A "traveler" With Rotates Around The Edge Of A Ring. Inside Th
e Ring Is A Faster Rotating Bobbin . The Process Simultaneously Twists The Rovin
g Into Yarn And Winds It Around The Bobbin. Ring Spun Yarns Are Generally Strong
er Than Open End Yarns.
Ripening
(1) A Process In The Production Of Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate) Consisting In T
he Splitting Off Of Some Of The Ethanoic Acid (acetic Acid) And Most Of The Comb
ined Catalyst Present In The Primary Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate). (2) A Proces
s In The Manufacture Of Viscose In Which, Prior To Spinning, The Number Of Xanth
ate Groups Is Reduced And Some Redistribution Takes Place. The Process Is Time A
nd Temperature Dependent.
Ripping
The Operation Of Removing Cotton Or Man-made Fibre Linings From Garments Prior T
o The Sorting And Classification Of Rags.
Ripstop
A Woven Fabric With Corded Yarns Spaced At Regular Intervals In Both The Warp An
d Filling, Forming Squares On The Surface Of The Fabric. Originally Intended So
A Tear In The Fabric Would Not Spread. Used Mainly For Outerwear And Active Wear
.
Robe
Originally This Described All The Furniture And Effects Belonging To A Person, T
hen The Meaning Was Gradually Reduced Until It Denotes A Person's Collection Of
Clothing.
Robe ? L'anglaise
Mid- To Second Half Of 18th Century Dress That Was Made With A Fitted Back Calle
d "en Fourreau".
Robe De Chambre / Robe Volante
In The 17th Century The Word Had Nothing Of The Modern Sense Of D?shabill?, It W
as Simply A Gown Differing From The Court Gown, And Was Admitted To The Chambres
Of The Royal Apartments Outside Receptions And Ceremonies.
Roller Printed
A Method Of Printing By Passing The Fabric Over Metal Rollers On Which The Desig
n Has Been Engraved. One Roller Is Used For Each Color. Used For Printing Long R
uns With Good Register And A Clear, Sharp Design.
Rolling (flax)
The More General Term Is Breaking And Consists Of Deformation Of The Plant Struc
ture By Flattening The Stem, Loosening The Bond Between The Fibre Bundles And Th
e Wood, And Breaking The Woody Part Into Short Pieces, To Facilitate Their Remov
al From The Fibre By Scutching.
Rose Point Lace
A Needlepoint Lace With Floral Patterns Connected By Bars. Similar To Venitian L
ace But With Smaller Patterns.
Rotary Screen Printed
In Screen Printing A Separate Screen Is Created For Each Color . The Open Mesh P
art Of The Screen Corresponds To The Area To Be Printed In That Color. The Areas
Where Color Is Not To Pass Through Are Blocked. Dye Paste Is Forced Through The
Open Mesh Area With A Squeegee. In Rotary Screen Printing The Squeegees Are Con
tained Within Cylindrical Screens Aligned One After The Other, And The Fabric Mo
ves Continuously. Rotary Printing Is A Much Faster Process Than Flat Screen Prin
ting But The Pattern Repeat Is Limited By The Circumference Of The Cylinders.
Rotor Spinning
A Method Of Open-end Spinning Which Uses A Rotor (a High Speed Centrifuge) To Co
llect A Individual Fibres Into A Yarn, The Fibres On Entering A Rapidly Rotating
Rotor Are Distributed Around Its Circumference And Temporarily Held There By Ce
ntrifugal Force. The Yarn Is Withdrawn From The Rotor Wall And, Because Of The R
otation, Twist Is Generated.
Roughing (scutched Flax)
A Preliminary Hand Hackling Operation Involving The Removal Of Tangled And Short
Fibres By Means Of A Roughing Tool.
Roughing-out (flax)
The Rough Separation Of The Seed From The Chaff, Short Straw, Weeds, And Other E
xtraneous Material Produced During De-seeding.
Roving
A Name Given, Individually Or Collectively, To The Relatively Fine Fibrous Stran
ds Used In The Later Or Final Processes Of Preparation For Spinning.
Rubber-like
Having A Hand Suggesting Rubber.
Ruff
Stiffened Frill Of Lace Or Pleated Linen, Worn In The 16th And Early 17th Centur
ies. A Forerunner Of Falling Band And Cravats.
Rug, Scutching (flax)
The Partly Scutched Short Straws That Fall Below The Two Compartments Of A Scutc
hing Machine After (a) The Shives Have Been Shaken Out Of It, Or (b) The Waste M
ade During The Production Of Scutched Flax On A Wheel.
Sack Dress, Also Robe ? La Francaise
Mid- To Second Half Of 18th Century Dress That Was Made With A Box Pleated Back
("watteau"-pleats) Falling Loosely From Just Below The Shoulder To The Floor.
Sack Gown / Robe Volante / Andrienne
A Loose Dress Flaring Out At The Bottom, The Back Attached To The Neckband With
Gathers At First, Then With Pleats. It Was Worn From About 1704 To About 1730-35
.
Sacking
A General Name Applied To Coarse Fabrics Used Chiefly For The Making Of Bags Or
Sacks. They Are Often Made Of Jute, Hemp, Flax Or Polyolefin, And The Number Of
Threads Per Centimetre May Vary From 2 To Over 12.
Sadri
A Sleeveless Jacket Worn Over A Shirt Or Kurta, Alike By Men And Women. The Name
Of This Popular Garment Derives Possibly From Aura, 'the Upper Part Of The Huma
n Breast'.
Sailcloth
Originally A Tightly Woven Cotton Or Linen Canvas Used In The Manufacture Of Shi
p And Yacht Sails. It Is Now More Common For These Fabrics To Be Manufactured Fr
om Nylon For Spinnakers, And Polyester Or Aramid For Foresails And Mainsails. Ne
wer Developments Include Laminated Constructions Which Give Greater Dimensional
Stability.
Salt Figure
See Hottenroth Number
Salt Sensitivity
(1) The Extent To Which The Dyeing Properties Of A Dye Are Affected By The Addit
ion Of A Neutral Electrolyte To The Dyebath. Note: This Term Is Usually Only App
lied In The Dyeing Of Cellulosic Fibres. (2) The Susceptibility Of Coloured Mate
rial To Change In Colour When Spotted With Aqueous Solutions Of Neutral Electrol
ytes.
Salwatishalwar
A Pajama Like Garment For The Lower Part Of The Body, Baggy And Wide At The Top,
And Not So Tight Around The Legs And Ankles. Worn Mostly By Women, But Also By
Men In Some Parts Of India, Especially In The Northwest.
Sanded
A Finishing Process That Brings The Fabric In Contact With Sandpaper Or Another
Abrasive Material. This May Be Done To Raise Surface Fiber, Impart A Peached Or
Sueded Hand Or To Create A Surface Effect.
Sandwashed
A Finishing Process In Which The Fabric Is Washed With Sand Or Another Abrasive
Material To Produce A Soft, Sueded Hand And A Faded Appearance.
Sanforized
A Trademarked Finishing Process Which Compresses The Fabric To Reduce Its Residu
al Shrinkage To Not More Than 1 Percent.
Sansevieria
A Fibre Obtained From The Leaves Of Various Species Of Plants Of The Genus Sanse
vieria. Also Known As 'bow-string Hemp'.
Saran (fibre) (US)
A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres In Which The Fibre-forming Substance
Is Any Long-chain Synthetic Polymer Composed Of At Least 80% By Weight Of 1,1-d
ichloroethene (vinylidene Chloride) Units. The Iso Generic Name Is Chlorofibre
Sash
In The 60s And 70s Of The 17th Century A Broad, Loosely Knotted Sash Was Often W
orn Around The Hips Over The Coat By Men. Usually Made Of Silk And The Edges Dec
orated With Tassled Fringes.
Sateen
A Smooth, Strong, Lustrous Satin Weave Fabric Made With Cotton Or Other Spun Yar
ns . In A Warp Face Satin, The Most Common, The Filling Yarns Cross Over One And
Under Several Warp Yarns, Thus Mainly The Warp Yarns Are Visible On The Face. I
n A Filling Face Satin, The Filling Yarns Cross Under One And Over Several Warp
Yarns Thus The Mainly The Filling Yarns Are Visible On The Face.
Satin
A Smooth Strong, Lustrous Satin Weave Fabric Made With Silk Or Manufactured Fila
ment Yarns . In A Warp Face Satin, The Most Common, The Filling Yarns Cross Over
One And Under Several Warp Yarns, Thus Mainly The Warp Yarns Are Visible On The
Face. In A Filling Face Satin, The Filling Yarns Cross Under One And Over Sever
al Warp Yarns Thus The Mainly The Filling Yarns Are Visible On The Face . Some S
atins Have A Filament Yarn Face And Spun Yarn Back.
Satin Stripe
Stripes In A Fabric Formed By A Satin Weave, Often Alternating With Sheer Plain
Weave Stripes.
Satin-back Crepe
See Crepe-back Satin.
Saturation Bonding
A Method Of Making Nonwoven Fabrics In Which A Fibre Web Or Batt Is Treated By O
verall Application Of An Adhesive In Liquid Form. (see Also Adhesive-bonded Nonw
oven Fabric.)
Saxony
1. A Soft, Heavy Luxurious, Napped Fabric Made From Fine Merino Wool Originally
From Saxony, Germany. Used For Coats 2. A Soft Tweed Fabric Of Fine Wool. Used F
or Sport Coats.
Saxony
A High-quality Fabric, Made Of Wool Of 60s Quality Or Finer, Spun On The Woollen
System.
Scale Margins
The External Margins Of Cuticular Scales. The Distance Between Scale Margins Is
Described As Close, Near, Distant, Or A Combination Of These Such As Near To Dis
tant.
Scale Patterns
The Pattern Formed By The Scale Margins. Most Scale Patterns Are Waved, Although
Not All To The Same Extent. Patterns May Described As Regular, Irregular Or Str
eaked. A Regular Waved Pattern Is One In Which The Waves Are Of Almost Equal Wav
elength And Equal Amplitude; An Irregular Wave Pattern Is One In Which The Waves
Are Of Unequal Wavelength And Amplitude. A Streaked Wave Is One In Which The Wa
ves Are Interrupted By Steeply Inclined Scale Margins. The Term Waved Is Frequen
tly Used In Conjunction With Another Adjective E.g., Waved Crenate Margins. Othe
r Scale-patterns Are:- Chevron. A Waved Pattern. In Single Chevron Either The Tr
oughs Or Crests Are Narrow And V-shaped. In Double Chevron Both The Trough And C
rests Are V-shaped. Crenate. Margins Which Are 'notched', I.e. Have Fairly Shall
ow Indentations But Sharp Peaks. Mosaic. A Pattern Composed Of A Number Of Units
; This Type Is Divided Into Regular In Which The Units Are Approximately The Sam
e Size And Irregular In Which The Units Of The Mosaic Are Of Different Sizes. Pe
ctinate Comb-like Margins. This Type Is Subdivided Into Coarse Pectinate, Which
The 'teeth' Are Large And Wide , And Lanceolate In Which The 'teeth' Are Long An
d Narrow. Petal. Patterns In Which The Scales Have The Appearance Of Over-lappin
g Flower Petal. This Type Is Divided Into Irregular Petal And Diamond Petal. Rip
pled. Margins Having Indentations, The Troughs And Peaks Being Deeper But More R
ounded Than In The Crenate Type.
Scalloped
A Series Of Semicircular Curves Along The Edge Of A Fabric. Used As Decorative E
dge For Skirts, Curtains.
Scenic
Refers To Print Motifs With A Landscape Theme.
Scented
Fabric That Is Purposely Impregnated With A Chemical That Gives It An Aroma Able
To Withstand Multiple Washings.
Schappe Silk
Originally, Yarn Spun From Fibre Degummed By Schapping, But Nowadays The Term In
creasingly Used As A Generic Alternative To Spun Silk. Note: The Change In Meani
ng Reflects The Greatly Decreased Use Of Fermentation Processes For Degumming,
Schappe-spun
Originally Used To Describe A Silk Yarn From Fibre Degummed By The Schapping Pro
cess, But Now Used Both In The U.K., And Elsewhere In Europe As A Term Synonymou
s With Silk-spun.
Schapping
A European Method Of Degumming Applied To Silk Waste, Which Removes Part Of The
Gum By A Fermentation Process. Up To 10% Of Gum May Remain On The Fibre.
Schiffli Embroidery
Embroidery Done On Fabric Using A Schiffli Machine. Capable Of Intricate Designs
.
Schiffli Lace
A Lace Made With A Schiffli Embroidery Machine By Embroidering The Design On A N
et Ground. The Ground May Be Kept Or Later Burned Away.
Schreiner
(1) Descriptive Of A Calender With Two Or Three Bowls In Which One (the Middle O
ne In A Three-bowl Calender) Is Of Highly Polished Steel Engraved With Very Fine
Parallel Lines (grooves) Running At An Angle Of Approximately 20? To Either The
Horizontal Or The Vertical. (2) (finish) Descriptive Of A Finish Obtained By Pa
ssing A Fabric Through A Schreiner Calender. The Object Of The Process Is To Enh
ance The Lustre Of The Fabric. (3) (bowl) The Engraved Bowl Of A Schreiner Calen
der. Note 1.. The Number Of Lines On The Bowl May Vary From 5-24 Per Millimetre,
But Is Usually In The Range 9-14. Note 2: The Angle Of Inclination Of The Lines
Is Chosen To Ensure Good Cover Of The Fabric, E.g., A Low Inclination Of 15-20?
Is Recommended For Weft Sateen Fabrics. Optimum Effects Are Obtained When The L
ines Slightly Cross The Direction Of The Surface Yarn Twist. Note 3: In Use, The
Engraved Bowl Is Heated, Usually To 60-120?c For Finishing Cotton Fabrics.
Scotchguard
A Water Repellent And Oil Repellent Finish Trademarked By 3m Company.
Scouring
The Treatment Of Textile Materials In Aqueous Or Other Solutions In Order To Rem
ove Natural Waxes, Proteins And Other Constituents, As Well As Dirt, Oil And Oth
er Impurities. Note: The Treatment Varies With The Type Of Fibre. Cotton And Fla
x Goods Are Normally Scoured At The Boil Or Under Pressure With Sodium Hydroxide
(caustic Soda) Or With Lime Followed By Sodium Carbonate (soda Ash) Or With A M
ixture Of Sodium Hydroxide (caustic Soda) And Sodium Carbonate (soda Ash); Wool
Goods With Aqueous Solutions Of Sodium Carbonate (soda Ash) Or Soap Or Both Temp
eratures Not Exceeding 50?c, Or Substantially Neutral Liquors Containing A Synth
etic Detergent In The Presence Of An Inorganic Salt; Viscose Rayon With Soap And
Sodium Carbonate (soda Ash) At Or Below The Boil; Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate)
With Soap And Sodium Carbonate (soda Ash) Liquors Of Relatively Low Alkalinity
And At Temperatures Below The Boil To Prevent Alkaline Hydrolysis Of The Ethanoa
te (acetate);nylon, Etc., With Soap And Sodium Carbonate (soda Ash) Or Ammonia B
elow The Boil, Although Special Cases Neutral Or Acidic Liquors May Be Used.
Screen Printing
A Design Reproduction Process, Developed From Stencilling, In Which Print Paste
Is Forced Through Unblocked Areas Of A Mesh, In Contact With The Substrate. The
Mesh May Be A Woven Fabric Or A Fine Screen, Flat Or Cylindrical (rotary Screen)
. Pressure Is Applied To The Paste By A Squeegee (blade Roller), Which Is Moved
When The Screen Is Stationary Or Stationary When The Rotary Screen Is Rotating.
Scrim
A Lightweight Open Weave Fabric Usually Of Cotton. Used For Curtains Or As A Bas
e For Needlework , Lamination Or Carpeting.
Scrim
A General Term, Irrespective Of Structure, For A Lightweight Basecloth Included
In A Nonwoven Fabric
Scroll A Design Dominated By Fanciful Curves.
Scroop
A Rustling Noise And A Characteristic 'dry' Handle When A Material Is Compressed
By Hand. Scroop Is Usually Associated With Silk But Also Produced In Certain Ma
n-made Cellulosic Fibres, Yarns, Or Fabrics By Suitable Finishing Treatments. It
Is Probably Associated With A High Coefficient Of Static Friction Relative To T
he Dynamic Coefficient.
Scutcher
A Machine For Continuously Opening Fabric Which Has Previously Been In Rope Form
.
Scutching (cotton)
An Operation In Which Cotton Is Opened Mechanically, Cleaned And Formed Into A C
ontinuous Lap
Scutching (flax)
The Operation Of Separating The Woody Part Of Deseeded Or Retted Flax Straw From
The Fibre.
Sea Island Cotton
The Exceptionally Fine, Long-staple Types Of Cotton Grown In The West Indies
Seam Line
Is The Line Which Indicates Where The Seam Should Be Stitched - Or It Is Plainly
The Stitching Line Of Any Garment.
Secondary Cellulose Acetate
An Ester Formed From Cellulose And Ethanoic Acid (acetic Acid) Used To Make Acet
ate Fibres. Note: Purified Cellulose Is Ethanoylated (acetylated) By Ethanoic An
hydride (acetic Anhydride) In The Presence Of A Catalyst (such As Sulphuric Acid
Or Perchloric Acid) In A Solvent Such As Dichloromethane (methylene Chloride) O
r Ethanoic Acid. The Reaction Proceeds Until Primary Cellulose Acetate Containin
g 60% Of Combined Ethanoic Acid Is Formed. Secondary Cellulose Acetate Is Formed
From The Primary Acetate By Partial Hydolysis. It Is Obtained By Adding Water I
n Excess Of That Required To React With The Residual Ethanoic Anhydride, Which T
hus Allows The Hydrolysis To Take Place.
Secr?te
French Word For Under Layer Of A Skirt. Two Layers Were Always Worn, Even When T
he Outer Layer Modeste Was Closed In Front.
See Also Atactic Polymer, Isotactic Polymer
See Also Stretch Fabric.
Seed Cotton
Cotton Which Has Been Harvested But Not Ginned, So That The Fibre Is Still Attac
hed To The Seed.
Seed Hair
Fibres Growing From The Surface Of Seeds Or From The Inner Surfaces Of Fruit Cas
es Or Pods. Such Fibre (seed Hairs) Are Formed By The Marked Elongation Of Epide
rmal Cells. Note. From A Botanical Aspect, Cotton Is A Seed Hair, Since It Is An
Outgrowth In The Form Of Single Cells From The Epidermis Or Outer Skin Of Cotto
n Seeds. In This Respect, Cotton Differs From Fine Vegetable Fibres, Which Are C
omposed Of A Number Of Plant Cells, Usually Joined And Cemented Together To Form
A Bundle And Often Occurring In The Stems (e.g., Flax) Or Leaves (e.g., Sisal)
Of Plants Or Shrubs. Nevertheless, In Commerce And Industry, It Is Customary To
Refer To Cotton As Vegetable Fibre. Calotropis (akund) And Asclepias (milkweed)
Are Other Examples Of Hair Growing On Seeds, Whereas Eriodendron (java Kapok) Gr
ows On The Inner Surface And The Placenta Of Seed Pods.
Seersucker
A Lightweight Fabric With Puckered Stripes Made By Weaving With Some Of The Warp
Yarns Tight And Some Loose . The Loose Warp Threads Become Crinkled. Frequently
Made In Yarn Dye Stripes And Plaids. Often Made Of Cotton Or A Cotton Blend But
Can Be In A Variety Of Fibers . Used For Summer Clothing.
Selvedge ( USA Selvage) Widening
A Method Of Shaping A Garment Panel By Introducing Additional Needles At One Or
Both Selvedges In A Sequence Designed To Increase The Width.
Semi Bleached
Fabric That Has Been Lightly Or Partially Bleached.
Semi-dull
Refers To Fabric From Manufactured Yarn That Has Been Delustered To Reduce But N
ot Completely Eliminate The Shine.
Semi-worsted Spun
A Term Applied To Yarn Spun From Sliver Produced By Carding And Gilling In Which
The Fibres Are Substantially Parallel, The Carded Sliver Not Having Been Conden
sed Or Combed. Alternatively, The Yarn May Be Produced From A Roving. Note: The
Above Definition Is Descriptive Of Processing Technique And Not Of The Fibre Con
tent.
Sequestering Agent
A Chemical Capable Of Reacting With Metallic Ions So That They Become Part Of A
Complex Anion. The Principle Is Used To Extract Calcium Ions From Hard Water, Ir
on Ii And Copper Ions From Peroxide Bleach Liquors And Various Metallic Ions Fro
m Dyebaths, By Forming A Water-soluble Complex In Which The Metal Is Held In A N
on-ionizable Form
Sequins
A Small, Flat, Reflective Disk With A Hole For Attaching To The Fabric For Decor
ative Purposes. May Be Of Metal Plastic Or Shell.
Serge
A Smooth Faced 2x2 Twill Weave Fabric. Traditionally Of Wool But May Be Of Other
Fibers. Used For Trousers, Suitings.
Serpentaux
Women's Hairstyle, With Almost Straight Hair Hanging Down, It Followed The Coiff
ure En Bouffons During The Reign Of Louis Xiii.
Sett; Set
(1) A Term Used To Indicate The Density Of Ends Or Picks Or Both In A Woven Fabr
ic, Usually Expressed As The Number Of Threads Per Centimetre. The State Of The
Fabric At The Time Should Be Described E.g. Loomstate Or Finished. (2) Synonym F
or Count Of Reed. (3) The Term May Be Used In Such Phrases As High Sett, Closely
Sett Etc., Where A High End Or Pick Density Is Indicated.
Setting
The Process Of Conferring Stability Of Form Upon Fibres, Yarns, Or Fabrics, Usua
lly By Means Of Successive Heating And Cooling In Moist Or Dry Conditions. Note:
The Term Is Sometimes Used In Conjunction With A Description Of The Particular
Characteristics To Be Stabilized (e.g., Twist Setting, Crimp Setting) Or Of The
Setting Medium (e.g., Heat Setting, Steam Setting).
S-finish
A Finish Produced On Triethanoate (cellulose Triacetate) Textiles By Surface Sap
onification.
Shaft
The Finer And Proximal Portion Of A Guard Hair.
Shafty Wool
Strong, Dense And Well Grown Wool With Good Length And Spinning Characteristics
Shahtoosh
The Hair Of The Tiberian Antelope (pantholops Hogsoni), Locally Called Chiru. Th
e UN List This Animal Under The Convention Of International Irade In Endangered
Species, Appendix 1, I.e. Giving It Highest Protection. The Only Way To Collect
The Wool Is To Kill The Antelope!
Shaker
A Heavy 1x1 Rib Knit.
Shantung
A Plain Weave Fabric With Slubbed Yarns Or An Uneven Ribbed Surface Texture. Ori
ginally Of Silk But Now May Be Of Cotton Or Man Made Fibers.
Shantung
A Plain-weave Silk Dress Fabric Exhibiting Random Yam Irregularities Resulting F
rom The Use Of Yarn Spun From Wild (tussah) Silk.
Shantung-type Yarn
An Irregular Yarn Made From Fibres Other Than Natural Silk To Imitate The Yarn U
sed For Making Shantung.
Shaping; Weft Knitting
Descriptive Of The Process Used To Shape A Knitted Product During Knitting By Ch
anging The Number Of Stitches Per Course, Wale, Or Unit Area In The Fabric. The
Various Methods Which May Be Used Separately Or In Combination Are:
Sharara
A Kind Of Loose, Trailing Pajama (q. V.) Worn By Women.
Sharkskin
1. A Woven Fabric With The Yarns In Both Warp And Filling Alternating White And
Color Giving It A Salt And Pepper Look. Used For Suitings . Usually A 2x2 Twill
Weave But May Also Be Plain Weave. 2. A Crisp Fabric With A Pebbly Surface And A
Dull Luster Usually Of Filament Yarn Such As Acetate Or Triacetate . Often Foun
d In Pure White. Uses For Uniforms, Tennis Clothes.
Shear
(1) To Cut The Fleece From A Sheep. (2) To Cut A Nap Or Pile To Uniform Length O
r Height (also Called Crop). (3) To Cut Loose Fibres Or Yam From The Surface Of
A Fabric After Weaving (also Called Crop).
Sheared
A Finishing Process In Which The Fibers On The Surface Of The Fabric Are Mechani
cally Trimmed To Create An Even Nap. Often Follows Brushing Of The Fabric. Done
On Fleeces, Moleskins, Pile Fabrics, Wools.
Sheer
A Thin, Fine , Semi Transparent Fabric.
Sheeting
A Plain Weave Fabric With Even Or Close To Even Thread Counts In Warp And Weft .
Often Of Cotton. Carded Yarn Versions Are Used For Inexpensive Apparel, Furnitu
re Covers And As A Base For Laminates. Finer Yarns And Higher Counts May Be Used
For Bed Sheets.
Sherpa/berber
A Heavy Fabric With Clumped Pile Resembling The Fleece Of A Sheep. Used For Oute
rwear Trim And Lining.
Sherwani
A Coat Like Garment, Worn By Men Close To The Body, Of Knee-length, And Opening
In Front With Button-fastenings. Related To The Achkan (q.v.); Especially Popula
r At The Hyderabad Court And In Aligarh.
Shetland
A Soft Shaggy Wool Tweed Fabric . Originally Referred To Only Wool From The Shet
land Islands In Scotland But Now Refers To Any Wool Fabric With Similar Characte
ristics . May Be Woven Or Knit . Used For Overcoats, Sportcoats, Sweaters.
Shield
The Wider And Flattened Portion Of A Guard Hair. In Many Guard Hairs The Fine Sh
aft Widens Out Into A Flattened Shield, The Proportion Of Shaft To Shield Varyin
g In Different Types Of Fibres.
Shiny
Refers To Fabric Having A Surface With A High Reflectance Of Light.
Shives (flax)
Short Pieces Of Woody Waste Beaten From Straw During Scutching.
Shivey Wool
Wool That Contains Small Particles Of Vegetable Matter Other Than Burrs
Shoddy
(1) Fibrous Material Made In The Woollen Trade By Pulling Down New Or Old Knitte
d Or Loosely Woven Fabric In Rag Form. (see Also Mungo And Note The Distinction.
) (2) Droppings From Woollen Cards Consisting Of Very Short Fibres That May Be H
eavily Charged With Oil And Dirt.
Shrinkage
The Reduction In Length (or Width) Of A Fibre, Yam, Or Fabric. It May Be Induced
By, E.g., Wetting, Steaming, Alkali Treatment, Wet Processing As In Laundering,
Or Dry Heat.
Shrink-resistant Finish
A Treatment Applied To A Textile Material To Make It Shrink-resistant
Shrink-resistant; Shrink-resisting; Shrink-resist
Descriptive Of Textile Materials That Exhibit Dimensional Stability Conforming T
o Specified Standards Based On Tests Designed To Simulate Normal Conditions Of U
sage. Note: This Property May Be An Inherent Property Of The Textile Material Or
May Be Conferred By Physical Or Chemical Processes Or Both.
Shuttle (lace Machines)
(1) (schiffli Embroidery Machine) A Boat-shaped Yam-package Holder Travelling In
A Slide In Such A Manner That It Passes Through The Loop Formed In The Needle T
hread Thus Forming The Back Thread Of The Lock Stitch. (2) (lace Furnishing Mach
ine) A Term Used In Scotland For The Carriage
Siddo Rags
Rags Consisting Of Interlinings From Garments. The Best Types Are Produced From
Fabrics Made From Yams Of Hair, Or Blends Of Hair With Wool, Made On The Worsted
System.
Sidha Paijama
Pajama (q.v.) With A Straight Cut.
Sighting Colour
See Fugitive Tint
Silhouette
Dark-shaded Profile Portrait Outline Of Any Garment.
Silk
The Fibroin Fibre Forming The Cocoons Produced By Silkworms.
Silk Noil
A Fabric Produced From Silk Waste Fibers That Are Too Short For Producing Spun S
ilk.
Silk Noils
Fibres Extracted During Silk Dressing Or Combing That Are Too Short For Producin
g Spun Silk. These Fibres Are Usually Spun On The Condenser System To Produce Wh
at Are Known As 'silk-noil Yams'.
Silk Waste
The Fibres Remaining After Drawing Off, Reeling, Or Throwing Nett Silk, And Fibr
es Obtained From Damaged Or Unreelable Cocoons.
Silk, Wild
See Wild Silk
Silk-like
|Refers To Fabric Having A Hand That Suggests The Feel Of Silk.
Silk-spun
A Term Applied To Staple Yam Produced By Dressing Or Combing And Spinning On Mac
hinery Originally Designed For Processing Waste Silk Into Yam (see Spun Silk). N
ote: Whenever The Term Silk-spun Is Used, It Is Qualified By The Name Of The Fib
re And Fibres From Which The Material Is Made
Silver Coated
A Fabric With A Silver Colored Coating . Used In Outerwear.
Singe
To Remove, By Burning Against A Hot Plate, In A Flame, Or By Infra-red Radiation
, Unwanted Surface Hairs Or Filaments. The Operation Is Usually Performed As A P
reliminary To Bleaching And Finishing.
Single Yarn
A Thread Produced By One Unit Of A Spinning Machine Of A Silk Reel.
Sinkage
(1) Loss Of Weight In Wool Cleansing, Usually Expressed As A Percentage. (2) Una
ccounted Or 'invisible' Loss Of Weight In Processing, Usually Expressed As A Per
centage.
Sisal
A Pale Cream Fibre Obtained From The Leaf Of The Sisal Plant (agave Sisalana Per
rine).the Fibre From Other Agave Plants, And Particularly From Henequen (agave F
ourcroydes Lemaire) Resembles Sisal Very Closely And Indeed Is Sometimes Also Te
rmed 'sisal'.
Size
A Gelatinous Film-forming Substance, In Solution Or Dispersion, Applied Normally
To Warps Sometimes To Wefts, Generally Before Weaving. Note 1: The Main Types A
re Carbohydrates And Their Derivatives, Gelatin, And Animal Glues, Although Othe
r Substances, Such As Linseed Oil, Poly(acrylic Acid), And Poly(vinyl Alcohol) A
re Also Used Note 2: The Objects Of Sizing Prior To Weaving Are To Protect The Y
arns From Abrasion In Healds And Reed And Against Each Other; To Strengthen Them
; And By The Addition Of Oils And Fats, To Lubricate Them.
Skein
See Hank
Skein Sizing
See Hank Sizing
Skin Wool
Wool Removed From The Skins Of Slaughtered Sheep . Note: There Are Three Methods
Of Removal. (a) Lime-steeping, (b) Sweating (by Bacterial Action), And (c) Pain
ting With, For Example, Sodium Sulphide.
Skirting (wool)
(1) The Removal Of Wool Different From The Main Bulk From The Edges Of A Fleece.
See Also Wool Classing (2 ) A Wool Sorting Term For Stained Parts Of The Fleece
Such As The Legs And The Whole Edge Of The Fleece.
Slashings
Small Openings Made In A Garment, Showing The Lining. Slashings (crev?s, Chiquet
ades) Were Made In Garments, Shoes And Gloves.
Slay
Also Sley . That Oscillating Part Of A Weaving Machine, Positioned Between The H
ealds And The Fell Of The Cloth, Which Carries The Reed.
Slinky
A Market Term For A Shiny, Drapey Knit Fabric Of Synthetic Fiber With Fine Ribs.
Slipe
Lime-steeped Wools
Sliver
An Assembly Fibres In Continuous Form Without Twist.
Slope
Loose Clothes Tunics, Smocks, Trousers
Slub
A Short Abnormally Thick Place In A Yarn.
Slubbed
Refers To Fabric Using Yarn With Uneven Areas, I.e. With A Thick And Thin Appear
ance Occurring At Irregular Intervals.
Slubbing
The Name Given, Individually Or Collectively, To Relatively Thick Fibrous Strand
s, And Also To Strips Of Web From A Condenser Card That Have Been Consolidated I
nto A Circular Cross-section By Rubbing.
Slurry Steeping
A Process In The Manufacture Of Viscose Rayon In Which A Pulp Is Dispersed In A
Solution Of Sodium Hydroxide (caustic Soda) In The Preparation Of Alkali-cellulo
se.
Smooth
Refers To Fabric With An Even Surface With Little Surface Hair Or Texture.
Smooth-drying
See Drip-dry
Soft
Having A Gentle, Pliable, Supple, Hand.
Softening
The Application Of A Chemical Agent And/or Mechanical Process, E.g., Calendering
, To Impart To Fabrics A Soft Handle And Frequently A Smooth Appearance. A Numbe
r Of Chemical Softening Agents Also Confer A Fullness Of Handle.
Soil Release
Any One Of A Class Of Textile Finishes That Make It Possible To Remove Stains Fr
om Fabrics By Ordinary Domestic Washing.
Solid
Having A Single Even Color.
Solitaire
Narrow Black Ribbon Fashionable In The 18th Century From About 1725 Onwards. It
Was Tied To The Wig, Then Brought Around To The Front Of The Neck And Fastened,
Usually In A Bow, Over The Stock.
Solvent Bonding
A Method Of Making Nonwoven Fabrics In Which A Solvent Is Used To Soften The Fib
re Surfaces In A Web Or Batt And Hence Cause Bonding.
Solvent Dyeing
Dyeing Carried Out From A Continuous Non-aqueous Phase.,note. Water May Be Added
To Assist The Dyeing Process.
Solvent Finishing
The Treatment Of Textile Materials With Reagents, Other Than Dyes, Dissolved In
Organic Solvents.
Solvent Scouring
The Treatment Of Fabrics In Organic Solvent Media To Remove Impurities Such As L
ubricating Oils And Spin Finishes.
Soupling
A Softening Process Applied To Continuous-filament Silk Yarns That Are To Be Dye
d 'in The Gum'. The Yarns Are Treated In Warm Soap Solution And Softened In An A
cid Tartrate Bath. Such Treatments Normally Remove Some Of The Gum, To Leave 10-
15% On The Fibre
Sour
To Treat Textile Materials In A Bath Of Dilute Acid.
Space Dyed
Sections Of The Yarn Are Dyed In Different Colors Resulting In A Fabric With A M
ulti-color Effect.
Spandex (fibre) (us)
A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres In Which The Fibre-forming Substance
Is A Long-chain Synthetic Polymer Comprised Of At Least 85% Of A Segmented Poly
urethane. The Iso Generic Name Is Elastane
Spanish Blonde Lace
Usually A Large Floral Handmade Bobbin Lace Sewn To A Net Ground And Outlined In
A Heavy Thread. Commonly Cream Color But Also May Be White Or Black.
Sparkle
A Fabric That Uses A Yarn, Usually Nylon With A High Reflectance Of Light.
Specific Length
A Count Of The Number Of Unit Lengths Per Unit Mass Of Linear Textile Material.
Specific Stress (formerly Mass-stress)
The Ratio Of Force To The Linear Density. This Ratio Is Equal To The Stress Per
Unit Density And Is Expressed As Mn/dtex Or N/tex.
Spin Stretch Ratio
In Man-made Filament Extrusion, The Ratio Of Take-up Or Haul-off Speed To The Av
erage Speed Of The Spinning Fluid As It Leaves The Spinneret. Note: The Terms Dr
aw-down And Extrusion Ratio Are Also Commonly Used. Spinneret; Spinnerette (1) (
man-made Fibres) A Nozzle Or Plate Provided With Fine Holes Or Slits Through Whi
ch A Fibre-forming Solution Or Melt Is Extruded In The Manufacture Of Man-made F
ibres. (2) (entomology) The Small Orifices, On The Lower Lip Of The Silkworm And
At The Rear Of The Abdomen Of The Spider, Through Which Thread-forming Material
Is Extruded In The Formation Of A Cocoon, Web Or Other Filamentous Structure.
Spin-drawing
A Process For Spinning Partially Or Highly Oriented Filaments In Which Most Of T
he Orientation Is Introduced Between The First Forwarding Device And The Take-up
, I.e., Spinning And Drawing Are Integrated Sequential Stages
Spin-draw-texturing
A Process For Making Textured Yarns In Which Spinning, Drawing And Texturing Sta
ges Are Integrated Sequentially On A Single Machine.
Spinning
The Present Participle Of The Verb 'to Spin' Used Verbally, Adjectivally, Or As
A Noun, Meaning Process Or The Processes Used In The Production Of Yarns Or Fila
ments. Note 1: The Term May Apply To: (i) The Drafting And, Where Appropriate, T
he Insertion Of Twist In Natural Or Staple Man-made Fibres To Form A Yarn; (ii)
The Extrusion Of Filaments By Spiders Or Silkworms; Or (iii) The Production Of F
ilaments From Glass, Metals, Fibre-forming Polymers Or Ceramics. Note 2: In The
Spinning Of Man-made Filaments, Fibre-forming Substances In The Plastic Or Molte
n State, Or In Solution, Are Forced Through The Holes Of A Spinneret Or Die At A
Controlled Rate. There Are Five General Methods Of Spinning Man-made Filaments,
But Combinations Of These Methods May Be Used (see Dispersion Spinning, Dry Spi
nning, Melt Spinning, Reaction Spinning, And Wet Spinning) Note3: In The Bast An
d Leaf-fibre Industries, The Terms 'wet Spinning' And 'dry Spinning' Refer To Th
e Spinning Of Fibres Into Yarns In The Wet State And In The Dry State Respective
ly.
Spinning Bath
A Coagulating Bath Into Which A Solution Or Dispersion Of A Fibre-forming Polyme
r Is Extruded During The Processes Of Wet-spinning Or Dispersion Spinning Respec
tively.
Spinning Frame
A Machine Consisting Of A Number Of Spinning Positions For Converting Slivers, S
lubbings, Or Roving Into Yarn.
Spinning Pump
A Small Pump, Usually Of The Gear-wheel Type, Used To Provide A Uniform Flow Of
A Spinning Solution Or Molten Polymer To A Spinning Jet.
Spinning Solution
A Solution Of Fibre-forming Polymer As Prepared For Extrusion Through A Spinnere
t. Note: A Spinning Solution Is Often Referred To As Dope, A Term Historically A
ssociated With Cellulose Ethanoate (cellulose Acetate) Solutions As Varnishes.
Split Film
A Yarn Produced By The Process Of Fibrillation.
Spongy
Having A Surface That Can Be Compressed But Recovers.
Spray Bonding
A Method Of Making Nonwoven Fabrics In Which Droplets Of Adhesive Are Sprayed On
To The Fibre Web Or Batt
Spray Dyeing
Application Of Colorant To A Substrate Using A Spray Gun With The Object Of Prod
ucing Ombre Effects.
Spray Print
Color Is Applied To The Fabric By Spraying Dye On The Surface With A Compressed
Air Gun. Multiple Colors Maybe Applied By Using A Different Stencil For Each Col
or. Ombre Or Tie Dye Effects May Be Achieved.
Sprit (flax)
Small Pieces Of Woody Epidermal Tissue Adhering Firmly To Flax Fibre Strands.
Spun Silk
(1) Yarn Produced By Dressing Or Combing Processes From Silk Waste That Has Been
'boiled Off' To Remove The Gum. (2) Descriptive Of Fabrics Produced From Spun S
ilk.
Spun Yarn
Commonly Used To Describe A Yarn That Consists Of Staple Fibres Held Together (u
sually) By Twist.
Spunbonded
A Method Of Producing Nonwoven Fabric In A Continuous Process. Polymer Is Extrud
ed Through A Spinneret And The Resulting Filaments Are Cooled And Laid Down In A
Web Along A Continuous Conveyor Belt . The Web Is Then Bonded By Heat, Pressure
Or Adhesives To Form The Fabric.
Spunlaced
A Method Of Producing A Nonwoven Fabric By Mechanically Entangling The Fibers Wi
th High Pressure Water Jets . Also Called Hydroentangled Fabric.
Spunlaid Fabric
A Nonwoven Fabric Made By The Extrusion Of Filaments That Are Laid Down In The F
orm Of A Web And Bonded.
Spur Leather
A Butterfly Shaped Piece Of Leather That Was Stitched Across The Instep Of Soft,
Crumpling Leather Boots To Hold The Gold Or Silver Rowel Spurs. First Half Of 1
7th Century, "cavalier"-style.
Staining
(1) An Undesirable Local Discoloration. (2) In Fastness Testing Of Coloured Text
iles; The Transfer Of Colorant From The Test Material To Adjacent Materials
Standard Atmosphere For Testing
(a) Standard Temperate Atmosphere: An Atmosphere At The Prevailing Barometric Pr
essure With Relative Humidity Of 65% And A Temperature Of 20?c (68?f). (b) Stand
ard Tropical Atmosphere: An Atmosphere At The Prevailing Barometric Pressure Wit
h A Relative Humidity Of 65% And A Temperature Of 27?c (81 ?f) .
Standard Condition For Physical Testing
A Textile Material Is In Standard Condition (or Is 'conditioned') For Physical T
esting When, After Having Been Dried To Approximately Constant Weight In An Atmo
sphere With A Relative Humidity Not Higher Than 10%, It Has Been Kept In The Sta
ndard Atmosphere For Testing Until It Has Reached Equilibrium.
Staple
A Lock Or Tuft Of Fibres Of Uniform Properties And Hence A Lock Of Tuft Prepared
To Demonstrate Fibre Length. In Bulk, A Mass Of Fibres Having A Certain Homogen
eity Of Properties, Usually Length. Used As A Verb, To Bring Fibres To A Certain
Uniformity Of Properties, Usually Length, E.g. By Sorting Wool Or By Cutting Fi
laments.
Staple Fibre (man-made)
Man-made Fibres Of Predetermined Short Lengths.
Staple Length
A Quantity By Which A Sample Of Fibrous Raw Material Is Characterized As Regards
Its Technically Most Important Fibre Length. Note: The Staple Length Of Wool Is
Usually Taken As The Length Of The Longer Fibres In A Hand Prepared Tuft Or 'st
aple' In Its Naturally Crimped And Wavy Condition (see Crimp). With Cotton, On T
he Other Hand, The Staple Length Corresponds Very Closely To The Modal Or Most F
requent Length Of The Fibres When Measured In A Straightened Condition.
Starch
A Carbohydrate Component Extracted From Certain Plants And Used In Sizing And Fi
nishing. Its Use In These Operations Depends On Its Adhesive Or Film-forming Pro
perties. Steeping (1) (general) The Treatment Of Textile Material In A Bath Of L
iquid, Usually, Although Not Necessarily, Without Agitation. The Term Is Also Ap
plied To Processes Whereby The Materials Are Impregnated With A Liquor, Highly S
queezed, And Then Allowed To Lie. (2) In Rayon Manufacture, The Process Of Immer
sing The Dissolving Pulp In A Solution Of Sodium Hydroxide (caustic Soda) Of Mer
cerizing Strength (17-20%). The Purpose Of This Treatment Is Twofold: (a) To Pro
duce Alkali-cellulose, And (b) To Remove Soluble Impurities From The Pulp. The O
peration Is Controlled By Time And Temperature. (3) The Process Of Retting Flax
Straw By Immersion In An Aqueous Liquor.
Steeple Crown Hat
Having A High Pointed Crown And Flat Brim, And Fashionable In The First Half Of
The 17th Century.
Steinkirk, Also Steenkerk
Long Cravat, Often Tipped With A Fringe Or Lace, Worn With One End Tucked Throug
h The Buttonhole Or Pinned With A Brooch At The Coat-front Or Waistcoat. Women T
ucked Their Cravat Into Their Corset Laces. Fashionable Among Men And Also For W
omen For Several Decades At The End Of The 17th Century And Until The Mid-18th C
entury. The Name Is Said To Come From The Battle Of Steinkirk In Holland In 1692
, When French Soldiers Were In Too Much Of A Hurry To Tie Their Cravats Properly
Before Going Out To Fight, But This May Be Doubted, Because Apparently This Fas
hion Was Already Occasionally Seen Earlier.
Stenter; Tenter
An Open-width Fabric-finishing Machine In Which The Selvedges Of A Textile Fabri
c Are Held By A Pair Of Endless Travelling Chains Maintaining Weft Tension. Note
1: Attachment May Be By Pins (pin Stenter) Or Clips (clip Stenter). Note 2.. Su
ch Machines Are Used For: (a) Drying, (b) Heat-setting Of Thermoplastic Material
, (c) Fixation Of Chemical Finishes.
Sticky Cotton
Cotton That Sticks To Roller Surfaces, Especially At A Card Or Drawframe, Causin
g Difficulties In Processing Or Even Making The Material Impossible To Process W
ithout Special Precautions. Causes Of Cotton Fibre Stickiness Range From Contami
nation With Cotton Seed Oil Or The Pesticides And Defoliants Used During Cotton
Growing, To The Presence Of Bacteria And Fungi Or Of Different Types Of Sugars.
The Best Known Cause Of Sticky Cotton Is Honeydew .
Stippled
A Method Of Producing A Shading Or Watercolor Effect By Applying Color To The Fa
bric In Small Dots During Printing. The Degree Of Shading Is Determined By The S
ize And Frequency Of The Dots.
Stitch Holding (shaping)
A Method Of Shaping A Knitted Product By Changing The Number Of Loops In Individ
ual Wales By Continuing To Knit On Certain Needles Whilst Knitting Is Stopped An
d The Stitches Held On Other Needles For A Given Number Of Courses. It Is Possib
le To Start To Knit Again And Join The Held Stitches Into A Continuation Of The
Fabric.
Stitch Holding (shaping)
A Method Of Shaping A Knitted Product By Changing The Number Of Loops In Individ
ual Wales By Continuing To Knit On Certain Needles Whilst Knitting Is Stopped An
d The Stitches Held On Other Needles For A Given Number Of Courses. It Is Possib
le To Start To Knit Again And Join The Held Stitches Into A Continuation Of The
Fabric.
Stitch Length (knitting)
The Length Of Yarn In A Knitted Loop
Stitch Shaped
A Garment Shaped Wholly Or Partially By Change Of Stitch Length, Or Structure, O
r Both.
Stitch Shaped
A Garment Shaped Wholly Or Partially By Change Of Stitch Length, Or Structure, O
r Both.
Stitch Transfer
A Method Of Shaping A Garment Panel On A Flat Knitting Machine By Transferring S
elvedge Loops From One Needle Bed To The Other In A Sequence Designed To Increas
e Or Decrease The Width Of The Fabric Over A Given Number Of Courses. Shetland (
1) Original Usage: A Yarn Spun By Hand In The Shetland Islands From The Wool Of
Sheep Bred And Reared In These Islands. (2) Common Usage: A Yam, Spun On The Woo
llen System From 100% New Wool, Of A Quality Capable Of Imparting To A Fabric Th
e Handle Attributed To The Products Formerly Made Exclusively From The Shetland
Breed Of Sheep. (3) Current Trade Usage: (as Recognised By The International Woo
l Textile Organisation) Where The Term Shetland Is Qualified By The Adjective 'g
enuine', 'pure', 'real', Or Any Similar Description, Implies That The Wool Actua
lly Originated In The Shetland Islands.
Stitch Transfer
A Method Of Shaping A Garment Panel On A Flat Knitting Machine By Transferring S
elvedge Loops From One Needle Bed To The Other In A Sequence Designed To Increas
e Or Decrease The Width Of The Fabric Over A Given Number Of Courses.
Stock
High-stiffened Collar, Covered With Linen Or Black Satin And Fastened At The Bac
k Of The Neck By Strings Or Stock Buckles. A Piece Of Material Simulating A Crav
at Was Often Sewn Onto The Front Of The Stock. First Introduced As Military Cost
ume At The Beginning Of The 18th Century, And Highly Fashionable For The Rest Of
That Century.
Stock Dyed
Refers To The Dyeing Of Staple Fiber Before It Is Spun Into Yarn. A Common Metho
d For Woolen Fabrics.
Stockinette
A Term Sometimes Used For Soft, Plain Stitch, Knit Jersey Used For Underwear & O
ther Apparel.
Stoddard Solvent
Stomacher
In Female Garments A V-shaped Section At The Front Of A Boned, Stiffened Under B
odice. The Stomacher Filled In The Upper Part Of The Gown.
Stonewashed
A Process Of Washing The Fabric With Pebbles To Alter The Hand And Produce Fadin
g Of The Color.
Stoving
Bleaching Of Wool, Silk, Hair, Or Other Proteinaceous Materials In A Moist Condi
tion With Sulphur Dioxide In An Enclosed Chamber. (wet Stoving Is The Treatment
Of A Material With A Solution Of A Sulphite Or Bisulphite.)
Strand
(1) A Single Two-fold Or Multi-fold Yarn Used As A Component Of A Folded Or Cabl
ed Construction. (2) Linear Textile Material Generally.
Straw, Yarn
Extruded Monofilament Yarns That Have The Cross-section And Appearance Of Natura
l Straw.
Stretch 2 Way
Refers To A Woven Or Knit Fabric With Elastic Properties In Both Directions, Usu
ally The Result Of Using Spandex Yarn.
Stretch Fabric
A Fabric Characterized By A Capacity For Stretch And Recovery From Stretch. Note
: The Term Is Used For Materials With Greater Extension And Recovery Properties
Than Traditional Woven Or Knitted Structures From Conventional Yarns And Implies
The Use Of Stretch Yarns, Elastomeric Threads, Or Finishing Treatments. Such Fa
brics May Have Different Degrees Of Extensibility And Recovery Specified For Par
ticular Uses.
Stretch In Warp
Refers To A Woven Fabric With Elastic Properties In The Warp Direction Only, Usu
ally The Result Of Using Spandex Yarn In The Warp.
Stretch In Weft
Refers To A Woven Fabric With Elastic Properties In The Weft ( Filling) Directio
n Only, Usually The Result Of Using Spandex Yarn In The Weft.
Stretch Knit
Refers To Any Knit Fabric With Elastic Properties Usually The Result Of Using Sp
andex Yarn.
Stretch Lace
Refers To A Lace Fabric With Elastic Properties, Usually The Result Of Using Spa
ndex Yarn.
Stretch Spinning
A Process Of Spinning Whereby The Filaments Are Substantially Stretched At Some
Stage Between Spinning (extrusion) And Collection. The Term Is Applied Specifica
lly To A Process Involving Substantial Stretch In Order To Provide High-tenacity
Yam.
Stretch Yarn
Yarn Capable Of A Pronounced Degree Of Stretch And Recovery From Stretch.
Striated
Refers To Fabric Purposely Given A Narrow, Linear, Streaked Color Effect .
Strick.
A Small Bunch Of Flax Straws Of Scutched Flax, Or Hackled Flax, Of A Size That C
an Be Held In The Hand. Note: In The Jute Section Of The Textile Industry, The C
orresponding Term Is Strike Which Refers To A Bunch Of Jute Similar To A 'head'
But Smaller, Usually 1 To 2 Kg
Stripe
A Design Dominated By Lines Or Bands Of Contrasting Color Or Texture.
Stripping
Destroying Or Removing Dye Or Finish From A Fibre.
Strusa
See Frisons
Stuffer Box
A Crimping Device Consisting Of A Confined Space Into Which A Tow, A Converted T
ow, A Sliver, A Yarn Or A Similar Assembly Of Filaments Or Fibres Is Injected By
Feed Rollers Or Other Means Such As A Fluid Jet And In Which The Fibre Assembly
Is Packed And Compressed So That The Individual Filaments Or Fibres Buckle And
Fold.
S-twist
See Twist Direction
Sublimation Printing
A Form Of Transfer Printing Employing Dyes That Sublime Readily And Have Substan
tivity For The Substrate To Which They Are Applied.
Substantivity
The Attraction Between A Substrate And A Dye Or Other Substance Under The Precis
e Conditions Of Test Whereby The Latter Is Selectively Extracted From The Applic
ation Medium By The Substrate.
Suede Cloth/faux Suede
A Fabric With A Short Nap And A Soft Finish That Suggests Animal Suede.
Sueded
Having A Hand That Suggests The Soft Supple Feel Of Real Suede Leather.
Suint
Excretion From Sweat Glands Of Sheep, Which Is Deposited On Wool Fibres.
Suithana
Pajama Like Garment, Worn Mostly By Women; Wide At Top And Comfortably Roomy Aro
und The Legs And Ankles. Possibly From Sanskrit Svasthana, Mentioned In The Hars
hacharita.
Sulphur Dye
|A Water-insoluble Dye, Containing Sulphur Both As An Integral Part Of The Chrom
ophore And In Attached Polysulphide Chains, Normally Applied In The Alkaline Sol
uble Reduced (ieuco) Form From A Sodium Sulphide Solution And Subsequently Oxidi
zed To The Insoluble Form In The Fibre.
Sunn
A Bast Fibre Obtained From The Plant Crotolaria Juncea.
Superfine Wool
A General Term For The Best And Finest Quality Of Wool With A Diameter Of 15-18
Microns.
Supple
Having A Soft, Flexible, Luxurious Hand.
Supplex Brand
A Du Pont Brand Of Filament Nylon Fiber.
Surah
A Soft Twill Fabric Of Silk Or Synthetic Filament Fiber. Used For Scarves, Ties,
Blouses.
Suralisurwal
A Breeches-like Garment For The Lower Part Of The Body, Tight Around The Legs. W
orn Mostly In Nepal And Contiguous Areas.
Surface Decoration
Ornamenting The Surface Of A Fabric Or Garment (e.g. Embroidery Etc.)
Surfactant
An Agent, Soluble Or Dispersible In A Liquid, Which Reduces The Surface Tension
Of The Liquid. (a Contraction Of 'surface-active Agent'.)
Suri
See Alpaca Fibre
Swatch; Sample Swatch
Fabric For Display, Test, Or Record Purposes, In The Form Of A Single Sample Or
An Assembly Of Small Samples, The Latter Being Sometimes Called A Bunch.
Swealing
(1) Migration Of Dye Into The Angles Of Folds And Creases During Fabric Drying.
(2) Partial Transfer Of Colour, Dirt Or Grease Into The Surrounding Fabric, Caus
ed By Unsatisfactory Removal Of Stains By Hand From A Fabric When Using An Aqueo
us Or Solvent Treatment.
Swell Ratio
In Man-made Fibre Extrusion, The Ratio Of The Maximum Diameter Of The Extrudate
As The Solution Or Melt Emerges From The Spinneret To The Orifice Diameter. It I
s Sometimes Known As Die Swell .
Swelling Agent
A Substance That Causes The Total Liquid Imbibition Of A Fibre To Increase. Note
: A Swelling Agent May Be Used In A Dyebath Or A Printing Paste To Promote Color
ation By Accelerating The Diffusion Of Dyes Into A Fibre.
Syndet
A Detergent That Is Not A Soap. (a Contraction Of 'synthetic Detergent'.)
Syndiotactic Polymer
A Linear Polymer Containing Asymmetrically-substituted Carbon Atoms In The Repea
ting Unit Of The Main Chain, A Planar Projection Of Whose Structure Has The Same
Substituents Situated Alternately On Either Side Of The Main Chain

Syntan
A Name For Synthetic Tanning Agents.
Synthetic Fibre
A Man-made Fibre Produced From A Polymer Built Up By Man From Chemical Elements
Or Compounds, In Contrast To Fibres Made By Man From Naturally Occurring Fibre-f
orming Polymers.
Tackspun Fabric
A Material Made From A Polymer Film With A Backing Substrate. The Film Is Melted
By A Roller To Which It Adheres, Drawing Up A Fibrous Pile.
Tactel Brand
A Du Pont Brand Of Filament Nylon Fiber.
Taffeta
A Plain Weave, Tightly Woven Smooth Crisp Fabric With A Characteristic Rustle. M
ade From Silk Or Man-made Filament Yarns.
Tag Wool
The First Clip From A Sheep Not Shorn As A Lamb.
Tahband
A Kind Of Girdle Or Belt.
Takauchiya
A Kind Pyjama (q.v.). Abu'i-fazl Describes It In The Ain-i-akbati As "a Coat Wit
hout Lining, Of The Indian Form. Formerly It Had Slits In The Skirt, And Was Tie
d On The Left Side; His Majesty Has Ordered It To Be Made With A Round Skirt And
To Be Tied On The Right Side."
Tanis
Tie-cords Or Strings Used To Fasten Or Tighten A Garment When Worn.
Tape (textile)
(1) A Woven Narrow Fabric, Generally Plain-weave, Used In Non-loadbearing Applic
ations And The Reinforcing Of Fabrics To Resist Wear And Deformation. (2) A Long
Narrow Flat Structure With Textile-like Properties Made From Thermoplastic Poly
mer, Paper, Or Other Appropriate Material.
Tape Yarn
A Yarn Which Comprises A Tape With A Large Width-to-thickness Ratio, And Which H
as An Apparent Width Not Exceeding An Agreed Limit (e.g., 5mm Or 8mm). Note: Suc
h Yarns Are Usually Of Paper Or Are Formed By Slitting A Wide Film Of (usually)
Polyethylene Or Polypropylene Polymer Into Individual Tapes, With Hot-stretching
Either Before Or After Slitting To Induce High Longitudinal Strength. The Draw
Ratio In Hot-stretching Is Kept Low Enough To Avoid Excessive Longitudinal Fibri
llation. The Tape Yarn So Produced Is Suitable For Weaving.
Tape, Oriented
A Tape Made By Extruding A Thermoplastic Polymer, Usually A Polyolefin, In The F
orm Of A Sheet Or Film, Slitting The Sheet Into Tapes And Hot-stretching To Indu
ce Molecular Orientation And Hence High Longitudinal Strength.
Taper
To Decrease Width Gradually And Bring It To An End Point.
Taper Line Gratings
Transparent Plates Containing Lines More Widely Spaced At One End Than The Other
. By Selecting The Appropriate Taper Line Grating And Placing It Parallel To A S
et Of Threads In A Woven Fabric, It Is Possible To Ascertain The Number Of Threa
ds Per Unit Length (cm Or Inch) As A Result Of A Star Form Created. These Gratin
gs Can Also Be Used To Determine The Number Of Courses Per Unit Length In Weft-k
nitted Fabrics, Or The Number Of Dents Per Unit Length In A Reed.
Tapestry
A Closely Woven Figured Fabric Of Compound Structure In Which A Pattern Is Devel
oped By The Use Of Coloured Yarns In The Warp Or In The Weft Or Both. A Fine Bin
der Warp And Weft May Be Incorporated. It Normally Used For Upholstery. Note: Or
iginally The Term Was Applied To Furnishing Fabrics In Which The Design Was Prod
uced By Means Of Coloured Threads Inserted By Hand As Required. Modern Tapestry
Fabrics Are Woven On Jacquard Looms, Coloured Yarns Being Used To Produce The De
sired Pattern. There Are Various Fabric Structures In Which Two Or More Warps An
d Wefts Of Different Materials May Be Used. The Face Of The Fabric Is Usually Of
Uniform Texture, The Design Being Developed In Various Colours, But In Some Tap
estry Fabrics Figures Of The Brocade Type Formed By Floating Some Of The Threads
Are Also To Be Found.
Tartan
Refers To The Kinds Of Plaid Patterns Traditionally Worn By Scottish Highlanders
. Each Design Was Associated With A Specific Family Or "clan". The Term Is Gene
rally Used To Today In Reference To Any Plaid Design Similar To These Scottish D
esigns.
Taslan
A Du Pont Trademark For A Method Of Bulking And Texturizing Yarn Using Compresse
d Air.
Tasteless
The Basques Of Early 17th Century Doublets.
Tattersall
A Simple Overcheck Design, Usually A Thin Check Of One Or 2 Colors On A Contrast
ing Color Ground.
Tear
The Ratio Of Top To Noil Produced In Combing.
Teazle; Teazel; Teasel
The Dried Seed-head Of The Plant Dipsacus Fullonum (fullers Thistle) Used To Rai
se A Pile Or Nap On Certain Fabrics. The Machine Used For This Purpose Is Known
As A Teazle Gig.
Teentah Topi
A Topi (q.v.) Consisting Of Three Different Pieces, Stitched Together.
Teflon
A Water Repellent, Stain Resistant Finish Applied To Fabric . Trademark Of Du Po
nt Co.
Temporary Set
The Process Of Conferring Temporary Stability Of Form Upon Fibres, Yarns, Or Fab
rics, Usually By Means Of Successive Heating And Cooling In Moist Or Dry Conditi
ons.
Tenacity
See Breaking Stress
Tencel Brand
Acordis Co.'s Brand Of Lyocell Cellulosic Fiber.
Tensile Test
A Test In Which The Resistance Of A Material To Stretching In One Direction Is M
easured
Terry
A Fabric With Uncut Loops On One Or Both Sides . May Be Woven Or Knit. Used For
Toweling, Robes. Knit Versions Such As French Terry Have Loops On One Side And A
re Sometimes Brushed To Produce A Fleece.
Tex
The Basic Unit Of The Tex System
Tex Is A Recognized Si Unit.
See Also Count, Hank, Lea (cotton), Flax Yarn Bundle
Tex System
A System Of Expressing Linear Density (mass Per Unit Length) Of Fibres, Filament
s, Slivers, And Yarns, Or Other Linear Textile Material. The Basic Unit Is The T
ex, Which Is The Mass In Grams Of One Kilometre Of The Product. Multiples And Su
b-multiples Recommended For Use In Preference To Other Possible Combinations Are
: kilogram Per Kilometre, Designated Kilotex (ktex); Decigram Per Kilometre, Des
ignated Decitex (dtex);and Milligram Per Kilometre, Designated Millitex (mtex).
Textile
Originally A Woven Fabric But The Term Is Now Applied To Fibres, Filaments, Or Y
arns, Natural Man-made, And Products Obtained From Them. Note: For Example, Thre
ads, Cords, Ropes, Braids, Lace, Embroidery, Nets, And Fabrics Made By Weaving,
Knitting, Felting, Bonding, And Tufting Are Textiles. Used As An Adjective, Desc
riptive Of Fibrous Or Filamentous Manufactures And Of The Raw Materials, Process
es, Machines, Buildings, And Personnel Used In The Organizations Connected With,
And The Technology Of, Their Manufacture.
Textile Film
A Man-made Textile Material In Film Form Within Which Molecular Orientation Is P
redominantly In The Longitudinal Direction. Note: Polymer Films For Non-textile
Use Are Commonly Unoriented Or Bi-axially Oriented, But Uni-axial Orientation Is
Present In Some Cases.
Textile Glass (fibre) (generic name)
The Name Used To Describe Glass Fibres That Are Suitable For Textile Application
s.
|
Textured Yarn
A Continuous-filament Yam That Has Been Processed To Introduce Durable Crimps, C
oils, Loops Or Other Fine Distortions Along The Lengths Of The Filaments. Note 1
: The Main Texturing Procedures Which Are Usually Applied To Continuous-filament
Yarns Made From Or Containing Thermoplastic Fibres, Are: (a) The Yarn Is Highly
Twisted, Heat-set And Untwisted Either As A Process Of Three Separate Stages (n
ow Obsolescent) Or As A Continuous Process (false-twist Texturing). In An Infreq
uently Used Alternative Method, Two Yarns Are Continuously Folded Together, Heat
-set, Then Separated By Unfolding; (b) The Yam Is Injected Into A Heated Stuffer
Box Either By Feed Rollers Or Through A Plasticizing Jet Of Hot Fluid (invariab
ly Air Or Steam). The Jet Process Is Sometimes Known As Jet Texturing, Hot-air J
et Texturing, Or Steam-jet Texturing; (c) The Yam Is Plasticized By Passage Thro
ugh A Jet Of Hot Fluid And Is Impacted On To A Cooling Surface (impact Texturing
); (d) The Heated Yam Is Passed Over A Knife-edge (edge Crimping), (now Obsolete
); (e) The Heated Yarn Is Passed Between A Pair Of Gear Wheels Or Through Some S
imilar Device (gear Crimping); (f) The Yam Is Knitted Into A Fabric That Is Heat
-set And Then Unravelled (knit-deknit Texturing); (g) The Yam Is Over-fed Throug
h A Turbulent Air Stream (air-texturing, Air-jet Texturing), So That Entangled L
oops Are Formed In The Filaments; (h) The Yarn Is Composed Of Bicomponent Fibres
And Is Subjected To A Hot And/or Wet Process Whereby Differential Shrinkage Occ
urs. Note 2: Procedures (a) And (d) In Note I Above Gives Yams Of A Generally Hi
gh-stretch Character. This Is Frequently Reduced By Re-heating The Yam In A Stat
e Where It Is Only Partly Relaxed From The Fully Extended Condition, Thus Produc
ing A Stabilized Yarn With The Bulkiness Little Reduced But With A Much Reduced
Retractive Power. Note 3: The Procedure (g) May Also Be Applied To Fibres Which
Are Not Thermoplastic.
Thermal Fabric
A Knit Or Woven Fabric Constructed So As To Trap Warm Air Between The Yarns. Oft
en In A Waffle Or Honeycomb Texture. Used For Blankets. Underwear.
Thermally Bonded Nonwoven Fabric
Textile Fabric Composed Of A Web Or Batt Of Fibres Containing Heat-sensitive Mat
erial, Bonded By The Application Of Heat, With Or Without Pressure. The Heat-sen
sitive Materials May Be In The Form Of Fibres, Bicomponent Fibres Or Powders.
Thermoplastic
Deformable By Applied Heat And Pressure Without Any Accompanying Chemical Change
. The Deformation Is Reversible.
Thick & Thin
A Fabric With A Mottled Appearance, Made From A Filament Yarn With Varying Thick
ness.
Thickener
A Substance Used To Increase The Viscosity Of A Print Paste Or Other Fluid, In O
rder To Control Its Flow Properties. Natural Polymers (starch, Alginates, Etc.,)
, Chemical Modifications Thereof, Synthetic Polymers, Emulsions, Foams And Clays
Can Be Used.
Thread
(1) The Result Of Twisting Together In One Or More Operations Two Or More Single
, Folded, Or Cabled Yarns (2) A Product As Defined In (1) Intended Particularly
For Sewing Purposes. (known Also As Sewing Thread.) (3) A Component Of Silk Yarn
. It Is The Product Of Winding Together Without Twist A Number Of Baves. A Three
-thread Silk Yarn Is The Result Of Folding Three Such Products Together (4) A Te
xtile Yam In General.
Thread Count
Is The Number Of Warp And Weft Yarns In One Square-inch Of A Fabric (warp Yarn X
Weft Yarn Per Sq. Inch)
Throw
A Term, Of Germanic And Anglo-saxon Origin, Used Especially In The Silk And Man-
made Fibre Industries To Describe The Twisting Or Folding Of Continuous-filament
Yams. Note. The Term Throwster Was Traditionally Used To Describe An Individual
Or Company Specifically Involved With These Twisting Processes, But, In More Re
cent Times, The Title Has Also Been Inherited By Those Who Manufacture Textured
Yarns By The False-twist Method.
Tick Weave
Fabric With A Small Allover Pattern Or Texture, Often Using 2 Contrasting Colors
.
Ticking
A General Term For A Strong, Tightly Woven Fabric Most Often Used For Mattress A
nd Box Spring Covers But Also For Workwear And Other Apparel. Often Found In A P
attern Of Narrow Stripes On Either Side Of A Wider Stripe. They Are Commonly Dar
k Warp Stripes On A White Ground.
Tie Dyed
A Hand Method Of Dyeing That Involves Gathering Small Portions Of The Fabric And
Tying Them Tightly Before Dyeing. The Tied Areas Resist Penetration Of The Dye,
Resulting In Irregular Patterns. Also Refers To Similar Designs Created By Mach
ine Methods.
Tiki
A Round Piece; Generally Tacked On To A Garment.
Tinsel Yarn
A Textile Yarn Or Thread, Combined, Coated, Or Covered With A Shiny Substance, O
ften Metallic (e.g., Aluminium, Occasionally Gold Or Silver), To Produce A Glitt
ering Or Sparkling Effect.
Tippet
From The 16th Century Onwards It Meant A Short Shoulder Cape.
Tippy Wool.
Wool In Which The Tip Portions Of The Fibres Have Been So Damaged By Weathering
During Growth As To Have Markedly Different Dyeing Properties.
Tissue Faille
A Lightweight, Plain Weave, Filament Yarn Fabric Characterized By A Narrow Cross
wise Rib. Used For Blouses And Dresses.
Tone On Tone
1. A Fabric With A Pattern Consisting Of 2 Or More Shades Of The Same Color. 2.
Piece Dyed Dobbies In Which The Dobby Effect Takes On A Different Tone By Virtue
Of The Weave, Light Reflection Or Types Of Yarn Used.
Top
(1) Sliver That Forms The Starting Material For The Worsted And Certain Other Dr
awing Systems, Usually Obtained By The Process Of Combing, And Characterized By
The Following Properties: (a) The Absence Of Fibres So Short As To Be Uncontroll
ed In The Preferred System Of Drawing; (b) A Substantially Parallel Formation Of
The Fibres; (c) A Substantially Homogeneous Distribution Throughout The Sliver
Of Fibres From Each Length-group Present. Note 1: Tops Are Usually Produced By C
arding And Combing, Or By Preparing And Combing On Worsted Machinery, But Recent
Years Have Seen The Introduction Of Top-making By The Cutting Or Controlled Bre
aking Of Continuous-filament Tows Of Man-made Fibres, And The Assembly Of The Re
sultant Staple Fibres Into Sliver In A Single Machine. Note 2: The Advent Of Man
-made Fibres Has Meant The Introduction Of Staple-fibre Top Into The Flax, Jute,
Spun Silk, And Other Drawing Systems. (2) The Form Or Package In Which Sliver I
s Delivered, E.g., Ball Top Or Bump Top.
Top Dyed
A Fiber Dyeing Method In Which Dye In Applied To Combed Fibers In An Untwisted O
r Loosely Twisted Rope Form (called Top Or Sliver ) . Sometimes Dye Is Applied O
r Printed On The Fiber At Regular Intervals To Give A Melange Effect . Top Dyein
g Results In Good Colorfastness.
Topham Box.
A Device For Twisting And Winding A Wet-spun Continuous-filament Yarn So As To P
roduce A Cake
Torchon Lace
An Inexpensive, Sturdy, Machine Made Lace Using Thick Threads In Simple Designs
On A Mesh Ground . Often With Scalloped Edges. Also Called Beggar's Lace.
Tow (flax Or Hemp)
Any Substantially Clean Fibre Of Less Than Scutched Length.
Tow (man-made fibres)
An Assemblage Of A Large Number Of Substantially Parallel Filaments With Little
Or No Twist.
Tow, Machine
Tow Produced By A Hackling Machine.
Tow, Straw
Flax Straw In Tossed And Broken Condition, Resulting From Threshing A Flax Crop
Too Poor For Normal Processing
Tower
High Female Headdress Fashionable In The Late 17th And Early 18th Century.
Tow-to-top
A Process In Which Heavy Continuous-filament Yam, Having No Twist And A Substant
ially Parallel Alignment Of The Filaments, Is Cut Or Broken Into Staple And Draf
ted Into A Sliver As A Continuous Process. It Is Characteristic Of The Process T
hat The Tow Does Not Lose Its Form, Although The Filaments Are Broken Down Into
Short Lengths, But Is Only Attenuated In The Drafting Process.
Tram
A Silk Weft Yarn Comprising Two Or More Threads Run Together And Then Twisted Wi
th 2 Or 4 Turns/cm.
Transfer Printing
Any Process By Which A Design Is Transferred From Paper To Another Substrate. Se
veral Techniques Have Been Used, Viz Melt-transfer, Film-release, And Wet-transf
er, But Vapour Transfer (sublimation Transfer) Is The Most Important. Selected D
isperse Dyes Transfer In Vapour Form To Thermoplastic Fibres When The Printed Pa
per And Fabric Are Brought Into Close Contact In A Transfer Press At 170?-220?c.
Trapunto
A Form Of Quilting In Which A Design Is Stitched Through 2 Layers Of Fabric. The
Lower Layer Is Than Slit And Batting Or Fiberfill Is Inserted To Raise The Desi
gn To A High Relief.
Trash (cotton)
A Loose Term Embracing, In Its Widest Sense, The Non-fibrous Foreign Matter Pres
ent In Bales Of Raw Cotton Other Than Abnormal Items, Such As Stone, Timber, Pie
ces Of Old Iron, Etc. Note 1: Normal Whole Seeds, Either Ginned Or Un-ginned, Ar
e Frequently Excluded From This Category But Broken Portions Of Them And Also Wh
ole Or Broken Undeveloped Seeds Are Usually Regarded As Trash. Note2, The Main C
omponent Of Trash Is Chaff And Dirt In The Form Of Soil Or Sand.
Trend
Fashion Is Not Static, They Are Constantly Moving, Their Movement Has A Definite
Direction. The Direction In Which Fashion Moves Is Called Fashion Trend.
Triacetate (fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Of Cellulose Ethanoate (cellulose Acetate) Wherei
n At Least 92% Of The Hydroxyl Groups Of The Original Cellulose Are Ethanoylated
(acetylated).
Tricorne
From French Late 18th Century Term For Hat With Turned Up Brim And Having Three
Corners.
Tricot
A Common Warp Knit Fabric With Thin Wales On The Face And Crosswise Ribs On The
Back . Generally Made Of Synthetic Yarns Such As Polyester, Nylon, Acetate Or Ra
yon.
Tricotine
A Woven Fabric With A Distinct Steep Double Twill Line. Used For Trousers Dresse
s, Women's Sportswear.
Trim
To Cut Off The Ragged Edges Below The Seam Line To Prevent The Garment From Bein
g Bulky And To Give The Seam A Neat Finish.
Tristimulus Values
The Amounts Of Three Defined Primaries (usually Blue, Red And Green) Required To
Be Mixed Additively To Match The Colour Of The Object, Under Defined Conditions
.
Trivinyl (fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Made From A Synthetic Terpolymer Of Cyanoethene (
acrylonitrile), A Chlorinated Vinyl Monomer And A Third Vinyl Monomer, None Of W
hich Represents As Much As 50% Of The Total Mass.
Tropical
A General Term For Crisp Lightweight Suiting Fabrics. They Often Use Fine Or Hig
h Twist Yarns For A Porous Construction . May Be A Variety Of Fibers And Weaves
. Primarily Used For Warm Weather Suits.
Trousses
In The 17th Century The Upper Hose Which Did Not Hang Down, But Fitted The Thigh
s Tightly. They Are A Survival Of The 16th Century Gr?gues, Preserved In The Cer
emonial Costume Of Knights Of The King's Order And In Pages' Costumes.
True Hemp
See Hemp, True
Tubular
A Knit Fabric Made On A Circular Knitting Machine And Shipped Without Being Slit
To Open Width Form.
Tuck Stitch
A Knit Stitch That Results In Open Spaces At Regular Intervals On The Fabric By
Having Some Needles Hold More Than One Loop At A Time.
Tukma
Small, Button-like Boss Used In Conjunction With A Ghundi (q.v.) Or Loop, For Fa
stening.
Tulle
A Soft, Fine, Transparent Net Originally Made Of Silk But Now Made Of Synthetics
. Usually Has A Hexagonal Mesh. Used In Evening Wear And Bridal Veils.
Tussah
Silk Fabric Made From The Strong, Coarse, Uneven, Light Brown Color Silk Produce
d By Wild, Uncultivated Silkworms.
Tussah Silk
A Coarse Silk Produced By A Wild Silkworm. There Are Three Main Types: Antheraea
Mylitta (largely Indian), Antheraea Pernyi (largely Chinese), And Antheraea Yam
a-mai (largely Japanese). It Is Brown In Colour And Is Usually Spun, Since Most
Cocoons Cannot Be Reeled. Note: The Spelling 'tussah', Although Considered Erron
eous By Etymologists, Is In Common Usage In The Textile Industry For The Name Gi
ven To Fibres And Filaments.
Tussore
A Fabric Woven From The Coarse Wild Silk Called Tussah. Note: The Spelling 'tuss
ore', Although Considered Erroneous By Etymologists, Is In Common Usage In The T
extile Industry For The Name Given To Fabrics.
Twaddell
A Scale Used For The Measurement Of The Specific Gravity Of Liquids By Hydrometr
y. The Following Formula Expresses The Relationship Between Specific Gravity (sg
), And Degrees Twaddell (tw), For Liquids Heavier Than Water:
Tweed
Originally A Coarse, Heavy-weight, Rough-surfaced Wool Fabric For Outerwear, Wov
en In Southern Scotland. The Term Is Now Applied To Fabrics Made In A Wide Range
Of Weights And Qualities From Woollen-spun Yams In A Variety Of Weave Effects A
nd Colour-and-weave Effects .
Twill
A General Term For A Woven Fabric Made With A Twill Weave, A Basic Weave Charact
erized By Diagonal Lines On The Face Of The Fabric.
Twist
The Condition Of A Yarn Or Similar Structure When The Component Elements Have A
Helical Disposition Such As Results, For Instance, From Relative Rotation Of The
Yarn Ends. For All Practical Purposes Twist Is Measured In Turns, But For Purel
y Theoretical Work Its Measurement In Radians (the Si Unit) Often Leads To Much
Simpler Mathematical Expressions.
Twist Angle
The Angle Between The Path Of A Yarn Element And The Yarn Axis.
Twist Direction
Twist Is Described As 's' Or 'z' According To Which Of These Letters Has Its Cen
tre Inclined In The Same Direction As The Surface Elements Of A Given Twisted Ya
rn.
Twist Factor; Twist Multiplier
In A Yarn, The Product Of Twist Level And The Square Root Of The Linear Density.
Note: Where Units Of Specific Length Are In Use, The Corresponding Factor Is Th
e Quotient Of The Twist Level And The Square Root Of The Count.
Twist Level
The Amount Of Twist Per Unit Length Of A Yarn. Note: With The Exception Of False
-twisting , The Length Is Normally Assumed To Be That In The Twisted Form But, W
hen Necessary, Ambiguity Can Be Avoided By Stating, For Example, Turns Per Twist
ed Metre Or Turns Per Untwisted Metre.
Twist Liveliness
The Tendency Of A Yam To Twist Or Untwist Spontaneously. Note 1: Examples Of Eff
ects Which May Be Caused By Twist Liveliness Include Snarling Of Yarns During Pr
ocessing And Spirality In Knitted Fabrics.
Twist Multiplier; Twist Factor
In A Yarn, The Product Of Twist Level And The Square Root Of The Linear Density.
Twistless Spinning
A System Of Yarn Formation That Relies On The Use Of A Permanent Or Temporary Ad
hesive To Bond Fibres Together. Note: Where A Temporary Adhesive Is Used It Is R
emoved During Fabric Finishing, And The Yarn (and Fabric) Strength Is Then Obtai
ned Through Lateral Pressure Produced By The Interlacings In The Fabric. A Simil
ar Fabric Construction Can Be Achieved By Using Wrap Spun Yarns Which Have Been
Produced With A Soluble Binder.
Twistless Yarn
A Yarn Prepared Without Twist In Order To Obtain Special Properties, E.g., Incre
ased Softness And Dyeability.
Twitty
Descriptive Of An Irregular Yarn Or Stubbing In Which Local Concentrations Of Tw
ist Have Accentuated The Irregular Appearance.
Ultimate Fibre
See Fibre Ultimate
Unbalanced Stripes
A Stripe Design With An Irregular Spacing Between The Lines.
Uncut Corduroy
A Corduroy With The Pile Left Uncut. The Result Is A Strong Woven Fabric With A
Warpwise Rib.
Undrawn Yarn
Extruded Filament Yarn (or Tow), The Component Macromolecules Of Which Have A Lo
w Degree Of Orientation. Note: Undrawn Yarn And Tow Represent Intermediate Stage
s In The Production Of Some Synthetic Yams And Staple Fibres Respectively.
Union Dye
A Dye, Or A Mixture Of Dyes, Which Will Yield An Apparently Solid Dyeing On The
Fibre Mixture For Which It Is Devised.
Union Dyed
A Fabric With 2 Or More Fibers All Dyed In The Same Shade.
Union Yarn
A Yarn Made By Twisting Together Yarns Of Different Fibres.
Unripe Cotton
See Immature Cotton
Upland Cotton; Uppers
A Type Of Cotton (gossypium Hirsutum) Which Forms The Bulk Of The World's Cotton
Crop. It Varies In Average Staple Length From About 22 Mm To About 32 Mm.
Urena
A Bast Fibre Similar To Jute, From The Plant Urena Lobata
V

Vajani
A Kind Of Pyjama (q. V.), Worn In Kutch And Saurashtra, Often Richly Embroidered
.
Valenciennes Lace
A Flat Bobbin Lace With The Same Fine Threads Used For Both The Ground And The D
esign.
Variable Cut Device
An Ancillary Device On The Crush-cutting Type Of Converter (see Converting) Whic
h Cyclically Varies The Angle Of Approach Of The Tow To The Cutting Region In Or
der To Introduce A Controlled Variation Of Fibre Length.
Vat Dye
A Water-insoluble Dye, Usually Containing Keto Groups Which Is Normally Applied
To The Fibre From An Alkaline Aqueous Solution Of The Reduced Enol ( Leuco) Form
, And Which Is Subsequently Oxidized In The Fibre To The Insoluble Form.
Veiling
A General Term For A Large Variety Of Light, Open Fabrics Used For Such Purposes
As Bridal Veils, Dress Trim, Evening Wear, Or Millinery.
Velour
A Knit Or Woven Fabric With A Soft , Short Thick Nap Made By Brushing And Sheari
ng. Knit Velours Are Used In Women's Tops And Sportswear. Wovens Are Usually Hea
vier In Weight And Used For Coats, Jackets, Drapery.
Velvet
A Woven Fabric With A Thick, Dense Cut Pile, A Soft Texture And A Rich Appearanc
e. May Be Made By 2 Different Methods A) 2 Layers Of Fabric With Connecting Thre
ads Are Cut Apart Or B) Warp Threads Are Lifted Over Wires During Weaving Formin
g Loops, And The Loops Are Cut When The Wires Are Withdrawn. Velvet May Be Plain
, Or The Pile May Be Flattened, Embossed, Crushed, Or Sculptured. Originally Mad
e Of Silk But Now Also Made Of Nylon, Rayon, Acrylic, And Other Fibers . Used Fo
r Dresses, Evening Wear, Drapery, Upholstery.
Velveteen
A Woven Fabric Generally Of Cotton Or A Cotton Blend With A Short, Dense Pile Re
sembling Velvet. Velveteen Differs From Velvet In That It Is Usually Made With C
otton, It Generally Has A Shorter Pile And It Is A Filling Pile Fabric Whereas V
elvet Is A Warp Pile Fabric . Used For Women's Wear, Drapery, Upholstery.
Velvety
A Soft Plush, Dense, Hand Suggesting Velvet.
Venetian
A Warp Faced, Strong, Heavy Sateen With A High Luster.
Venetian Lace
A Needlepoint Lace Usually In A Floral Pattern With Picot Edgings.. Also Called
Venise Lace. Or Venetian Point.
Vest Or Veste
In The 17th And 18th Centuries A Man's Garment Worn Under The Justaucorps, Gener
ally In Rich Material. Originally Almost As Long As The Coat, The Vest Was Gradu
ally Shortened And Simplified Until, In The Middle Of The Reign Of Louis Xv, It
Became The Waistcoat.
Vicuna
The Undercoat Hair Of The Vicuna, An Animal Of The Llama Group Of The Camel Fami
ly. It Produces A Softer And Finer Fabric Than Can Be Obtained With Any Other Wo
ol Or Hair.
Vinal (fibre) (US)
A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres In Which The Fibre-forming Substance
Is Any Long-chain Synthetic Polymer Composed Of At Least 50% By Weight Of Ethen
ol (vinyl Alcohol) Units And In Which The Total Of The Ethenol Units And Any One
Or More Of Various Acetal Units Is At Least 85% By Weight Of The Fibre. The Iso
Generic Name Is Vinylal.
Vinylal (fibre) (generic Name)
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Of Po
lyethenol (poly Vinyl Alcohol) Of Differing Levels Of Acetalization.
Vinyon (fibre) (USA)
A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres In Which The Fibre Forming Substance
Is Any Long-chain Synthetic Polymer Composed Of At Least 85% By Weight Of Chlor
oethene (vinyl Chloride) Units.
Virago Sleeves
Mid 17th Century Sleeves On Female Gowns And Jackets That Were Paned And Tied In
to A Series Of Puffs.
Viscose
The Solution Obtained By Dissolving Sodium Cellulose Xanthate In A Dilute Soluti
on Of Sodium Hydroxide (caustic Soda).
Viscose (fibre) (generic Name )
A Term Used To Describe Fibres Of Regenerated Cellulose Obtained By The Viscose
Process.
Viscosity
The Internal Resistance To Flow Of A Fluid. The Unit Of Viscosity Is The Pascal
Second. Note 1: The Viscosity Of A Solution Of A Polymer Is Commonly Expressed I
n One Of The Following Ways: (a) Viscosity Ratio: The Ratio Of The Viscosity Of
A Solution To The Viscosity Of The Pure Solvent (formerly Known As Relative Visc
osity). (b) Specific Viscosity: The Viscosity Ratio Less Unity. (c) Limiting Vis
cosity Number: The Value Obtained By Extrapolating, To Zero Concentration, The R
atio Of The Specific Viscosity Of A Solution To The Concentration Of The Solute
(formerly Known As Intrinsic Viscosity). Note 2: Some Fluids Such As Size Mixing
s Exhibit Anomalous Viscosity Effects And Cannot Therefore Be Characterized By A
Single Measurement. The Flow Behavior Of A Mixing Is Best Described Flow Curve
Relating Apparent Viscosity To Shearing Stress. If The Shearing Stresses Operati
ve In Sizing Were Known, Then The Apparent Viscosity Of The Mixings At These Str
esses Could Be Related To Their Sizing Behavior. Without This Knowledge, Measure
ments At Some Arbitrary Stress Have To Be Used: These Are Of Value In Characteri
zing A Particular Type Of Size And Can Often Be Relate The Take-up Of Size By Th
e Warp.
Visible Absorption Spectrum
The Curve Relating The Absorption Of Light By A Coloured Substance (usually In S
olution) To The Wavelength Of The Light.
Vizard
A Face Mask Worn By Ladies In The 17th Century To Protect Their Faces From The W
eather Or Even Indoors. See Also Mask.
Voile
A Sheer, Plain Weave Fabric With A Crisp, Wiry Hand Resulting From The Use Of Hi
gh Twist Yarns . Most Commonly Made Of Cotton, But Also Of Silk, Rayon, Wool, Ac
etate Or Other Fibers. Used For Blouses, Dresses Curtains.
Wadding
A Loosely Cohering Sheet Of Fibres Used For Padding, Upholstery, Stuffing, Packi
ng, Or Similar Purposes.
Waffle
A Fabric Characterized By A Honeycomb Texture Or Small Squares Similar To The Su
rface Of A Waffle. May Be Woven Or Knit.
Waistcoat
From The Louis Xvi Period Onwards Waistcoats Were Worn Under All Men's Outer Gar
ments, Coat, Riding-coat, Frock Coat, Jacket, Etc. Usually The Two Front Panels
Were Made From Fine Material And The Back, Which Isn't Seen, From Lining Materia
l.
Wale (knitting)
A Column Of Loops Along The Length Of A Fabric.
Wall Thickness, Apparent
The Apparent Width Of A Fibre Wall As Seen When Fibres Are Examined Under A Micr
oscope. Note: In The Cotton Fibre Maturity Test, The Apparent Wall Thickness Ass
essed Visually At The Widest Part Of The Fibres As A Fraction Of The Maximum Rib
bon Width.
Warm
A Woolly Or Fibrous Hand Generally Associated With Fabrics That Keep The Body Wa
rm.
Warm Colours
Colors Like Red, Orange, Yellow Are Classified As Warm Colors, They Are Advancin
g In Nature, Because As Seen By The Eyes These Colors Move Closer Thereby Reduci
ng The Size Of An Object. Warm Colors Are Cheerful.
Warp
Used As A Verb - To Arrange Threads In Long Lengths Parallel To One Another Prep
aratory To Further Processing. Note: In Addition To Beaming The Following Method
s Of Warping Are Practised; Ball Warping, Cross-ball Warping, And Chain Warping.
The Primary Stage Of These Methods Of Warping Is Withdrawal Of Ends From A Warp
ing Creel And Their Assembly In Rope Form, A Form That May Conveniently Be Used
For Wet Processing. For Convenience Of Handling, This Rope May Be (a) Wound Into
A Ball (ball Warping), (b) Machine-wound On To A Wooden Roller Into A Cross-bal
l Cheese (cross-ball Or Cheese Warping), Or (c) Shortened Into A Link Chain (cha
in Warping). A Number Of These Ropes May Be Assembled Into A Complete Warp On A
Beam Or May Be Split And Dressed And Incorporated In Warps Made By Other Methods
.
Warp (UK, Local, Chain)
Used As A Noun - (1) Threads Lengthways In A Fabric As Woven. (2) A Number Of Th
reads In Long Lengths And Approximately Parallel, In Various Forms Intended For
Weaving, Knitting, Doubling, Sizing, Dyeing, Or Lacemaking.
Warp Dressing
The Operation Of Assembling On A Beam Yarns From A Ball Warp, Beam Warp, Or Chai
n Warp Immediately Prior To Weaving.
Warp Knit
A Fabric Produced By Interlocking Loops In A Lengthwise Direction . Warp Knits T
end To Be Flatter, Smoother, More Run Resistant, And More Stable Than Weft Knits
. Examples Are Tricot, Raschel And Milanese.
Warp Knitting
A Method Of Making A Fabric By Normal Knitting Means In Which The Loops Made Fro
m Each Warp Thread Are Formed Substantially Along The Length Of The Fabric. It I
s Characterized By The Fact That Each Warp Thread Is Fed More Or Less In Line Wi
th The Direction In Which The Fabric Is Produced.
Warp Print
The Warp Yarns Are Printed With A Design Before Weaving. After Weaving The Desig
n Then Has A Hazy Shadowy Effect.
Washed
Refers To Fabrics That Have Been Laundered Before Shipping. This May Be Done To
Reduce Shrinkage, Soften The Hand, Wash Down The Color Or To Give The Fabric A U
sed, Laundered Look.
Washer
A Machine For Removing Impurities, Excess Dyes Or Chemicals By Submitting Fabric
Or Yarn, In Rope Or Open-width Form, To Successive Liquid Treatments,
Washing-off
Treatment Of Textile Material In Water Or Detergent Solution To Remove Substance
s Employed Previous Processes.
Waste (cotton, Wool And Other Staple Fibres)
There Are Two Classes Of Waste Known As 'hard' And 'soft', And Their Treatment D
iffers According To The Class. Hard Waste Is Essentially That From Spinning Fram
es, Reeling And Winding Machines And All Other Waste Of A Thready Nature. Soft W
aste Comes From Earlier Processes Where The Fibres Are Relatively Little Twisted
, Felted, Or Compacted.
Water Repellent
Fabrics That Have Been Treated To Resist Wetting And Shed Water By Causing The W
ater To Bead On The Surface. It Does Not Close The Pores Of The Fabric As Waterp
roof Treatments Do, So The Fabrics Are Comfortable To Wear. It Will Offer Protec
tion In A Light Shower But Not Heavy Rain. Water Repellency May Be Added By Trea
ting The Fabric With Fluorocarbon Chemicals , Wax, Silicone Or Resins . Sometime
s Called Water Resistant.
Watercolor
Refers To Designs That Are Characterized By Soft Gradations And Soft Shadings Of
Color Suggestive Of Semi-opaque Watercolor Paintings.
Watering
An Operation Used In Grass Bleaching That Consists Of Spraying Fabrics Laid On A
Green With Water.
Waterproof
The Ability Of Fabric To Be Fully Resistant To Penetration By Water. Note: The T
erm Is An Absolute One And Implies That The Water Penetration Resistance Of The
Fabric Is Equivalent To Its Hydraulic Bursting Strength.
Waterproof
Refers To Fabrics That Have Been Coated, Laminated, Or Otherwise Treated To Prev
ent The Penetration Of Water.
Water-repellent
A State Characterized By The Non-spreading Of A Globule Of Water On A Textile Ma
terial.
Watteau Pleat
Box Pleat Sweeping Down From The Shoulders To The Hem In The Loose Back Of The G
own.
Wax Coated
Refers To Fabric That Has Been Coated With Wax Or Paraffin To Alter The Hand Or
Appearance Or To Make The Fabric Water Repellent.
Waxing, Warp
The Application Of Wax To A Warp Sheet So As To Improve Its Weaving Performance.
The Wax, In Emulsion Or Molten Form, Is Usually Applied By A Trough And Lick Ro
ller. The Point Of Application May Be Between The Swift And Warp Beam In Section
Warping , Or Between The Creel And Beaming Head In Beam Warping Or Immediately
After Drying In Slasher Sizing. Normally Waxes Must Be Readily Removable In The
Subsequent Finishing Operation. Note: Alternatively Wax Is Sometimes Applied To
A Warp By Means Of A Wax Rod Placed In The Nip Between The Warp Sheet And The We
aver's Beam At The Point Where The Yarn Leaves The Latter.
Weathering
(1) The Action Of Atmospheric Agencies Or Elements On Substances Exposed To Them
. (2) The Discoloration, Disintegration, Etc., That Results From This Action.
Weave
The Pattern Of Interlacing Of Warp And Weft In A Woven Fabric
Web
(1) A Rarely Used Synonym For Fabric. (2) The Sheet Of Fibres Delivered By A Car
d (card Web) (3) A Plain Circular-knitted Fabric. (4) A Local And Little-used Sy
nonym For Warp. (5) (nonwoven) Single Or Multiple Sheets Of Fibre Used In Nonwov
en Fabric Production. Also Termed Batt
Webbing
A Woven Narrow Fabric, The Prime Function Of Which Is Load Bearing. It Is Genera
lly Of A Coarse Weave And Has Multiple Plies. It Is Produced In Widths Up To And
Including 450 Mm And Includes All Elastic Narrow Fabrics.
Weepers
White Bands Which Were Worn On The Sleeve Facings Of Coats And Jerkins In The 17
th And 18th Centuries As A Sign Of Deep Mourning.
Weft
(1) Threads Widthways In A Fabric As Woven. (2) Yarn Intended For Use As In (1).
Weft Bobbin
See Pirn
Weft Carrier
A Yarn Carrier Providing A Supply Of Weft And Driven Positively Through A Shed I
n A Weaving Machine.
Weft Knit
The Most Common Type Of Knit Formed By Interlocking Loops In The Widthwise Direc
tion . Weft Knit Tend To Have More Stretch Than Warp Knits. Examples Are Interlo
ck, Jerseys, Double Knits, Rib Knits.
Weft Knitting
A Method Of Making A Fabric By Normal Knitting Means In Which The Loops Made By
Each Weft Thread Are Formed Substantially Across The Width Of The Fabric. It Is
Characterized By The Fact That Each Weft Thread Is Fed More Or Less At Right Ang
les To The Direction In Which The Fabric Is Produced.
Weighting
The Addition Of Metallic Salts To Silks To Increase The Mass And Impart A Firmer
Handle.
Wet Cleaning
The Removal Of Water-soluble Or Emulsifiable Soil From Garments, Often Carried O
ut On A Draining Board Using Tepid Water In The Presence Of Detergents. It Is Al
so A Process For Cleaning Garments Etc., Made From Fabrics, E.g. Vinyi Coated Ma
terials, Liable To Be Damaged By Dry Cleaning Solvents.
Wet Fixation
A Finishing Process For Cellulosic-fibre Fabrics That Improves The Wet Crease Re
covery And Smooth Drying Properties, But Not The Dry Crease Recovery.
Wet Laying
The Process Of Forming A Fibre Sheet By Papermaking Techniques, For Nonwoven Fab
ric Production.
Wet Spinning (man-made-fibre Production)
Conversion Of A Dissolved Polymer Into Filaments By Extrusion Into A Coagulating
Liquid. Note: The Extrusion May Be Directly Into The Coagulating Liquid Or Thro
ugh A Small Air-gap. In The Latter Case It May Be Known As Dry-jet Wet Spinning
Or Air-gap Wet Spinning.
Wet-laid
Formation Of A Non-woven Fabric By Suspending Fibers In Water To Disperse Them E
venly . The Suspension Is Poured Onto A Moving Screen Allowing The Water To Pass
Through And Leaving A Fiber Web, Which Is Then Dried To Form The Fabric.
Wet-spun
(1) Descriptive Of A Yarn Of Flax, Hemp, Or Similar Fibre Spun From Roving That
Has Been Thoroughly Wetted Out In Hot Water Immediately Prior To The Drafting Op
eration. (2) Descriptive Of Man-made Filament Produced By Wet Spinning.
Whipcord
A Strong, Firm Fabric With A Prominent, Steep, Indented Twill Line. Used For Tro
users, Drapery, Upholstery.
Width, Fabric
Unless Otherwise Specified, The Distance From Edge To Edge Of A Fabric When Laid
Flat On A Table Without Tension. In The Case Of Commercial Dispute The Measurem
ent Should Be Made After The Fabric Has Been Conditioned In A Standard Atmospher
e For Testing . When Buying And Selling Fabric It Is Normal To Specify The Basis
On Which The Width Is To Be Assessed E.g., Overall, Within Limits, Or Usable Wi
dth (which Implies Within Stenter Pin Marks).
Wild Silk
Fibres Extruded By Insect Larvae Other Than Bombyx Mori.
Wildness
A Ruffled Appearance Of The Surface Fibres In Slivers, Slubbings, Rovings, And Y
ams. Note: Wildness May Be Due To The Processing Of These Products Under Dry Atm
ospheric Conditions Which Causes Increased Inter-fibre Friction And Static-elect
ricity Troubles. The Static Charges Cause Mutual Fibre Repulsion And Prevent Fib
res From Taking Up Normal Orderly Positions In The Respective Products.
Willey (UK, Local, Willow, Teaze)
To Open And Disentangle Fibres Prior To Scouring And/or Carding
Willey; Tenterhook Willow; Fearnought; Teazer, Cockspur Willey
A Machine Consisting Of Bladed Or Pinned Rollers For Opening, Cleaning And Mixin
g Staple Fibre Material As A Preliminary To Scouring (for Greasy Wool) Or Cardin
g (for Most Animal And Synthetic Fibres)
Winch; Wince
A Dyeing Machine In Which One Or More Endless Lengths Of Fabric Are Drawn Throug
h The Dyebath By A Rotating Reel Or Drum Above The Surface Of The Dye Liquor.
Wind Ratio
The Number Of Wraps Wound On A Take-up Package While The Traverse Completes A Fu
ll Stroke In One Direction.
Winder
A Machine Used For Transferring Yam From One Package To Another.
Windowpane
A Design That Looks Like A Windowpane, With Narrow Bands Of One Color Forming An
Over-check That Encloses Rectangles Of Another Ground Color.
Wool
The Fibrous Covering Of A Sheep (see Note Under Hair).
Wool Classing
See Classing
Wool Sorting
A Process By Which Fleece Or Skin Wool Is Divided Up Into Various Qualities. It
Is Usually Carried Out By The User.
Wool Waste
There Are Two Classes Of Waste Known As 'hard' And 'soft', And Their Treatment D
iffers According To The Class. Hard Waste Is Essentially That From Spinning Fram
es, Reeling And Winding Machines And All Other Waste Of A Thready Nature. Soft W
aste Comes From Earlier Processes Where The Fibres Are Relatively Little Twisted
, Felted, Or Compacted.
Woolen
Refers To Fabrics Of Carded Wool Yarns Spun In The Woolen Spinning System . Thes
e Are Shorter Coarser Yarns Than Worsted Yarns And The Fabrics Are Heavier Than
Worsteds.
Woollen
Descriptive Of Yarns, Or Fabrics Or Garments Made From Yarns, Which Have Been Pr
oduced On The Condenser System, Wholly From Wool Fibres, New Or Otherwise. Note
1: As An Adjective Appertaining To Wool Generally, The Term 'wool' And Not 'wool
len' Is Recommended. Note 2: The Trade Name 'woollen-spun' Is Applied To Staple
Yarn Produced By Carding, Condensing, And Spinning On Machinery Originally Desig
ned For The Processing Of Wool Into Yarn: It Is Descriptive Of The Processing Te
chnique And Not Fibre Content. Since The Yarn May Not Contain Any Wool Fibre, Th
e Alternative Condenser Spun Is Preferable.
Woollen, Blended
Descriptive Of Yarns Spun On The Condenser System And Having Wool As The Main Co
mponent, Or Descriptive Of Fabrics Or Garments Made From Such Yarns.
Woollen-spun
The Trade Name 'woollen-spun' Is Applied To Staple Yarn Produced By Carding, Con
densing, And Spinning On Machinery Originally Designed For The Processing Of Woo
l Into Yarn: It Is Descriptive Of The Processing Technique And Not Fibre Content
. Since The Yarn May Not Contain Any Wool Fibre, The Alternative Condenser Spun
Is Preferable.
Woollen-type Fabric
A Fabric Manufactured Wholly From Woollen-type (woollen-spun ) Yarns, Or From Co
tton Warp And Woollen-type (woollen-spun) Weft And Which May Or May Not Contain
Decorative Threads Of Other Fibres.
Wool-like
Refers To A Non-wool Fabric With A Warm Hand That Feels Like Natural Wool.
Worsted
Descriptive Of Yams Spun Wholly From Combed Wool In Which The Fibres Are Reasona
bly Parallel, And Fabrics Or Garments Made From Such Yarns. In Most Countries Fa
brics With A Small Proportion Of Non-wool Decorative Threads Can Be Described As
Worsted.
Worsted
Refers To Fabric Of Combed Yarns Spun In The Worsted Spinning System. These Tend
To Be Longer Finer Yarns Than Those Spun In The Woolen System. The Term Worsted
Usually Refers To Wool But May Refer To Any Other Fibers As Well. Worsted Fabri
cs Are Lighter And Smoother Than Woolens. Tropical, Gabardine And Serge Are Exam
ples Of Worsted Fabrics.
Worsted Fabric
A Fabric Manufactured Wholly From Worsted Yams, Except That Decorative Threads O
f Other Fibres May Be Present.
Worsted Yarns, Colour Terms
In All The Definitions Given Below, The Expression 'colour' Includes Black And W
hite.
Worsted, Blended
Descriptive Of Yarns In Which The Fibres Are Reasonably Parallel And Have Combed
Wool As The Main Component, Or Descriptive Of Fabrics Or Garments Made From Suc
h Yarns.
Worsted-type Fabric
A Fabric Manufactured Wholly From Worsted-type (worsted-spun) Yarns, Or From Cot
ton Warp And Worsted-type (worsted-spun) Weft, And Which May Or May Not Contain
Decorative Threads Of Other Fibres.
Wound Packages (yarns)
Yarn Wound On Formers Which Facilitate Convenient Handling. Note: In Some Cases
The Former May Be Withdrawn Before Further Processing.
Wrap Yarn
(1) A Fibrous Yarn Covered With Other Yarn(s) To Bind Projecting Fibre Ends To T
he Main Body. Note: It Is Commonly Used For Interlinings To Prevent Fibre Ends F
rom Penetrating The Outer Fabric.
Wrapper Fibres
Fibres Which Wrap Around The Main Body Of A Staple Fibre Yarn During Yarn Format
ion In The Production Of Open-end And Fasciated Yarns
Wrap-spun Yarn
A Yarn With A Twistless Core Wrapped With A Binder.
Wrinkle
An Unwanted Short And Irregular Crease In A Fabric. Note: The Distinction Betwee
n A Wrinkle And A Crease Is Often Not Clear But Creases Are Generally Sharper An
d Longer Than Wrinkles.
Wrinkle Resistance (u.s.a.)
See Crease Resistance
Wrinkle Resistant
A Fabric That Has Been Treated To Resist The Formation Of Wrinkles.
Yarn
A Product Of Substantial Length And Relatively Small Cross-section Consisting Of
Fibres And/or Filament(s) With Or Without Twist. Note 1: Assemblies Of Fibres O
r Filaments Are Usually Given Other Names During The Stages That Lead To The Pro
duction Of Yarn, E.g., Tow, Slubbing, Sliver, Or Roving. Except In The Case Of C
ontinuous-filaments Or Tape Yarns, Any Tensile Strength Possessed By The Assembl
ies At These Stages Is Generally The Minimum That Can Hold Them Together During
Processing. Note 2: Staple, Continuous Filament, And Mono-filament Yarns Are Inc
luded. Note 3: No Distinction Is Made Between Single, Folded And Cabled Yarns. N
ote 4: Zero-twist Continuous Filament Yarns Are Included. Note 5: Zero-twist And
Self-twist Staple Yarn Are Included. Note 6: By The Definition Of Fibre And Fil
ament, Paper, Metal, Film And Glass Yarns Are Included.
Yarn Count
See Count
Yarn Dyed
Fabrics Which Have Had The Yarns Colored Before The Fabric Is Woven. Used To Pro
duce Stripes Plaids Or Tapestries.
Yarn Dyed And Overdyed
A Fabric Which Has Been First Yarn Dyed, Then Piece Dyed In A Lighter Shade That
Allows The Yarn Dye Pattern To Show Through.
Yarn Linear Density
The Coarseness Or Fineness Of Yarn Or Other Linear Textile Material.
Yarn Setting
The Process Of Conferring Stability Of Form Upon Yarns Usually By Means Of Succe
ssive Heating And Cooling In Moist Or Dry Conditions.
Yarn, Cable
Two Or More Folded Yarns Twisted Together In One Or More Operations.
Yarn, Combination
A Yarn In Which There Are Dissimilar Component Yams Especially When These Are Of
Fibre And Filaments. (1) Descriptive Of Full Drawn Continuous-filament Yarns Su
bstantially Without Twist And Untextured (see Also Twistless Yarn.) (2) A Synony
m For Straw (see Yarn, Straw)
Yarn, Single
A Thread Produced By One Unit Of A Spinning Machine Or Of A Silk Reel.
Yarn, Spun
Commonly Used To Describe A Yarn That Consists Of Staple Fibres Held Together (u
sually) By Twist.
Yarn, Straw
Extruded Monofilament Yarns That Have The Cross-section And Appearance Of Natura
l Straw.
Yarn, Zero-twist
(1) A Continuous-filament Single Yarn In Which There Is No Twist, (2) A Multi-fo
ld Yarn In Which There Is No Folding Twist. Note 1: Some Fibrous Yarns Are Descr
ibed As Twistless, Since The Fibres May Be Held Together By Adhesive Temporarily
E.g., Until Incorporated In Fabrics. Varieties Of Core-spun Yarn And Scaffoldin
g Yarn Have Appeared With This Description After Solvent-removal Of One Componen
t. Note 2.. Zero-twist Continuous-filament Yams Usually Become Twisted By Over-e
nd Withdrawal E.g., From A Pirn In A Loom Shuttle
Yarn; Folded, Doubled, Plied
A Yarn In Which Two Or More Single Yarns Are Twisted Together In One Operation,
E.g., Two-fold Yarn, Three-fold Yarn, Etc. Note: In Some Sections Of The Textile
Industry, E.g., The Marketing Of Hand-knitting Yams, These Yarns Are Referred T
o As Two-ply, Three-ply, Etc.
Yarns, Fancy
A Yarn That Differs From The Normal Construction Of Single And Folded Yarns By W
ay Of Deliberately Produced Irregularities In Its Construction. These Irregulari
ties Relate To An Increased Input Of One Or More Of Its Components Or To The Inc
lusion Of Periodic Effects Such As Knots, Loops, Curls, Slubs Or The Like.
Yellowing
The Yellow Discoloration That May Develop On Textile Materials During Processing
, Use, Or Storage.
Yjshtinuam
Boat Shaped Cap (topi), Worn Close To The Head. Kulah
Yoryu
See Crepon/ Yoryu.
Z

Zardozi Work
Work In Which Gold Or Silver Metal Threads Are Sewn On A Fabric Like Satin Or Ve
lvet With Metallic Threads To Give The Appearance Of True Embroidery.
Zari
Metallic Thread Twisted Over Cotton Or Silk For Brocading. Also Referred To, In
Popular Parlance, Asjad
Zero-twist Yarn
(1) A Continuous-filament Single Yarn In Which There Is No Twist, (2) A Multi-fo
ld Yarn In Which There Is No Folding Twist. Note 1: Some Fibrous Yarns Are Descr
ibed As Twistless, Since The Fibres May Be Held Together By Adhesive Temporarily
E.g., Until Incorporated In Fabrics. Varieties Of Core-spun Yarn And Scaffoldin
g Yarn Have Appeared With This Description After Solvent-removal Of One Componen
t. Note 2.. Zero-twist Continuous-filament Yams Usually Become Twisted By Over-e
nd Withdrawal E.g., From A Pirn In A Loom Shuttle
Zirah
A Kind Of Coat Of Mail.
Z-twist
See Twist Direction