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Aurobindo International
Bhandara, Maharashtra

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Silk Sarees
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Tussar Silk, also known by


its Sanskrit name Kosa silk,
is produced from Tusser
silkworms (Antheraea
mylitta and Antheraea
proylei). Tussar is valued for
its texture and natural gold
colour, which is unusually
rich and deep. Tussar Silk is a type of wild silk it is obtained
from silk worms that are not bred on mulberry trees but whose
cocoons are collected from the local trees like Sal, Arjun and Saja.
It is less expensive than cultivated silk and not as durable
(cultivated silk has longer fibres). Some Tussar silk today is made
is called non-violent silk, or Ahimsa Silk, which is extracted from
the cocoon after the silkworm larva has left it.

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Silk Sarees
Tussar Silk Sari
Designer Sarees

Tussar Silk Production

  
 

The first stop is to see some


tussar moths. We leave the road
and walk through a family
compound. Entering a brick
building through a screen door we
are met with the humid damp air
one usually finds in greenhouses.
Rich and slightly cloying. On a
table of cut branches, large tussar
caterpillars are happily munching
away at the green leaves. They are a bright green and slightly
translucent. They are always either eating or resting. That is the
life of a caterpillar.And in a second room are the adults. The
moths rest on an egg stick. The females wear a harness of thread
that keeps them from flying away.

The males are free to visit the females and if they do, it is referred
to as "pairing".The moths are tended constantly and in our photo
you can see the cot which has been set up under a protective

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Page 2 of 6

sheet. The pairing takes place by the end of abdomen.Perhaps


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tussar can be domesticated. WeSubmit
didn'tQuery
witness
egg hatching or the
earlier instars of the insect, but it seemed that it might possible to
fully manage a brood inside.

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Cocoon Life Cycle


Metamorphosis the name for rapid transformation of a larva into
an adult that occurs in some insects. The Butterfly Goes trhough
four stages to become adult butterfly. The process can be call
Metamophosis.
There are 4 Stages :

Egg
Egg: Female Butterfies lay
their eggs on plants to
enable Caterpiller (later
stage) to get the food from
plant leafs.

Larva
Larva Also called Caterpillar.
It emerges from egg after
few days. Caterpillar spends
most of its time eating.

Pupa

The Caterpillar forms a


protection shield called
Pupa when it has finished
growing. Most of the
transformation takes place
in side Pupa.

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Butterfly
When the Pupa has finished
transformation the Butterfly
emerges from the Pupa. The
adult Butterfly lays eggs on
plants after mating period.

Reeling
The unwinding of the fine silk
filaments from the cocoon is
called reeling, and the process is
carried out in a building known as
a filature. The cocoons are first
put into hot water in order to
soften the sericin. After soaking,
the cocoons are lightly brushed to
find the ends of the filaments so
that they can be unwound.
Although there may be as much as 13,000 feet (4,000 meters) of
filament in one cocoon, only about one fifth can be reeled into the
continuous filament known as net silk. Depending on the final
thickness that is desired, between five and ten cocoons are
usually reeled simultaneously. The filaments are drawn upward
together through a small hole or guide to form a single strand. To
help the sericin hold the filaments together and to remove any
water that may be clinging to them, a system of small pulleys is
arranged so that a filament is crossed at one point either with itself
or with a neighbouring filament. This crossing is known by the
French term croisure. The resulting strand is then wound onto a
reel and dried. The wound strand is called a hank.

Spinning
Silk that is unsuitable for reeling is
known as waste silk. The fibres in
waste silk are usually about 3 to 5
inches (8 to 12 centimetres) long.
Waste silk can be cleaned and
degummed and then carded and
combed to produce silk tops, or
slivers. These are then spun to
produce spun silk yarns. Spun silk
yarns, like cotton yarns, are
normally defined by the yarn count--the number of hanks, each
840 yards (768 meters) long, that will weigh 1 pound (0.45
kilogram). The higher the count number, the finer the yarn.

Weaving Process
During the weaving process a
paper pattern is kept beneath

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which acts as a trace to set up the


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design onto the sari.There is a Submit Query
rich tradition of weaving handloom
cotton textiles among the tribal
and semi-tribal people.The unique
feature of Baluchar saris was the
combination of animal and bird
motifs incorporated in floral and
paisley decorations while other
motifs included hunters on horses, elephants, and scenes from
the nawab's court. The silk yarn used for Baluchar saris was not
twisted and so had a soft and heavy texture. Limited ground
colours were used which were permanent in nature and retain
their freshness even after so many years.

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Dyeing Process
Natural dyeing has been an age
old tradition in India, recent
invention of chemical dyes and
their excessive usage has caused
health related problems. The
vegetable dyed and printed
fabrics adorned homes not only in
India but to the homes of western
world also. The people who are
conscious to the environment
have been searching for alternatives to synthetic dyes. This has
led to the reinvention of natural dyes. We have been using hand
dyes techniques for the natural dyeing process. Although, the
vegetable dyes are used all over the country, but in Rajasthan,
extensive use of these dyes has been found due to their
traditional occupation. A designer's fantasy can be sufficed by
applying different dying techniques. The several processes of
resist dyeing can be used for home furnishing and lounge wear.

Printing Process
Any kind of hand block
printing can be done using
wood or brass metal block
specific sum of the region
are famous for their style of
work. Bagru and sanganer
has specific motifs which are
now prevalent as bagru
motifs. Kaladera in rajasthan
is famous for its kashish
printing. Other region
dhamakda and anjaar are
famous for their ajrak printing.
Tussar Silk Printing
We have master crafts man for specialized printing for specific
areas. This also depends upon our selection of craftsman also
depends upon the fabric and needs to be produced. Some of the
artisans are specialized for silk printing where others are good at

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Page 5 of 6

cotton printing. Our team of designers is able to create new


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designs for specific requirements.
We have
full capacity to
make lovely prints using hand batik techniques and wood block
batik printing.

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Tussar Silk Printing


The most common method used for veg/organic is wood block/
brass block stamping, bagru near Jaipur is famous for its rich
designs and motifs in vegetable dyes. Most of the painting is done
by the printing community locally known as chhipa. Age old
methods of dye making is still in practice today in bagru. The cloth
dyed dries on the sand and than it is processed. The printing can
be done on any type of fabric. Fabric list. We offer our services in
areas of dying printing and fabrication and custom designing in all
three levels.
Finished Product:
Temperate Oak tussar/ Eri Silk blended shawls, stoles, mufflers,
saris and fabrics. Devbhumi Oak tussar silk is a finer variety of
tussar generated in India by the silk-worm Anthrea proyeli J. that
feeds on oak.
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shreeram Rockwool
Supply and application of thermal insulation on turnkey basis

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