PRELIMINARY SET-UP

FOR A
COMPOUND BOW
1.

Draw Length

2.

Draw Weight

3.

Eccentric Balance

4.

Tiller

5.

Arrow Rest/Launcher

6.

Initial Centre-shot Setting

7.

Initial Nocking Point Height

8.

Fletching Clearance

9.

Release Aid

10.

Sight

11.

Stabilisation
K G Bearman

DRAW LENGTH ADJUSTMENT

String set on the pegs of the wheels to give the shortest draw-length.

String set on the pegs of the wheels to give the longest draw-length.

Any combination of pegs can be used to give the exact draw-length for the individual
archer.

Teardrop

Tri-draw wheel

Dacron string

Steel cables

Wheels that do not have separate pegs to adjust the draw-length usually have three slots in the
wheel so that the string can be placed in either on giving different draw-lengths.

Once the draw-length and draw-weight of the bow has been established an arrow of the correct
spine can be selected and of a length that will give approximately 1 of arrow in front of the arrow
rest/launcher.

K G Bearman

ECCENTRIC BALANCE

Note the difference of

the pegs in the home
position.

Comparison.

Comparison.

Incorrect setting

Comparison.

Comparison.

Correct setting

Also, the wheel position should be checked at full-draw. The best setting would be where the
wheels are even at the home position and at full-draw.
There are several different methods of adjusting for wheel/cam position; this depends on the
model of bow and the type of string/cable set-up being used. For the correct procedure refer to
the manufacturers instructions.

K G Bearman

TILLER ADJUSTMENT

Initial setting, adjust for equal measurement.

Adjustment for top limb.

Measurement locations.

Adjustment for bottom limb.

Manufacturers use many different methods for adjusting and locking the limb bolts; this depends
on the model of bow and the type of string/cable set-up being used. To ensure the correct
procedure is used for any given bow refer to the manufacturers instructions.

K G Bearman

ARROW REST/LAUNCHER SELECTION

Release aid shooters.

Finger shooters.

Note the different positions

of the fletchings compared to
the nock slot.

A shoot through rest/launcher.

An arrow rest with pressure button.

When lining up the

arrow (moving the
arrow rest/launcher left
or right) for release aid
shooters, the arrow can
be truly centre shot.

When lining up the

arrow for archers who
shoot off the fingers,
(for right hand shooters)
the tip of the arrow must
show slightly left of the
string to allow for the
archers paradox.
It would be necessary to
mirror image this set-up
for left handed shooters.

Arrow line-up when shooting

with a release aid.

Arrow line-up when shooting

off the fingers.

The initial bend of the arrow (archers paradox) when shooting with a release aid is in the vertical
plane. When shooting off the fingers the initial bend is in the horizontal plane.

K G Bearman

INITIAL CENTRE-SHOT SETTING

Centre line of limbs and riser.

String.

Arrow showing centre shot.

Put the bow on an upright stand, either use limb alignment gauges or you can measure the width
across the limb by the wheel, find the centre, then measure the offset of the string track in the
wheel from this central position. Then measure the limb at the end of the riser, find the centre,
then put a mark on the limb taking the same offset measurement as measured at the wheels. This
should be done for both the top and bottom limb. These two lines can be used to visually line up
the string, you can then move the arrow rest/launcher in or out from the riser to get the string
alignment straight down the shaft of the arrow. A piece of adhesive paper can be temporary
stuck to the limbs by the end of the riser, this will save actually marking the limbs.

K G Bearman

INITIAL NOCKING POINT HEIGHT

Nocking point
height.

90o

above
square, taking a line
at 90o from the
string to the top of
the arrow launcher.

Initially fit the nocking point so that the bottom of the nock-set is ths of an inch above square, taking
a line at 90o from the string to the top of the arrow launcher.
Bear in mind, the bottom of the arrow will possibly be lower than the top of the Arrow launcher; this
will depend on the type of launcher being used.

Difference in height
between the top of the
arrow launcher and the
bottom of the arrow.

K G Bearman

FLETCHING CLEARANCE

When fitting the nock to the arrow ensure

the cock fletching is in the right plane for
the arrow rest/launcher being used.

Incorrect.

This launcher may be used for either

having the cock fletch straight up or
straight down, as long as the fletching
does not foul the launcher.

Correct.

This launcher can only have the cock

fletch in the straight up plane, as the
fletching will foul the launcher as there is
no provision for the fletch to go between
the arrow launching points.

Correct.

It is very important to select the best position of the nock slot to allow for maximum clearance
for the fletchings to pass the arrow rest/launcher without hindrance.

K G Bearman

RELEASE AID SCOPE PEEP SIGHT

Rope.
Adjustment screw.
Rotor.

Thumb lever.
Relaxation Rope release.
This type of release is held by the first three fingers with the thumb being used to operate the
release mechanism. This particular model is cocked when the thumb presses the thumb lever
and the rope is released when the thumb is relaxed.

Trigger.

Calliper

Calliper with wrist strap.

This release aid is strapped to the wrist leaving the hand free, usually the trigger is operated by
the index finger. This is a good type for new comers to compound shooting as it is not possible
to let go of the release aid whilst at full draw, which sometimes happens in the first months of
compound shooting.

A magnifying scope is often used on a

compound; this magnifies the image
allowing for a more accurate aiming spot.
The spirit level incorporated in the scope
enables the archer to ensure the bow is
held upright whilst aiming and shooting.
Magnifying scope.

If a magnifying scope is used it is

imperative to use a peep sight, this
reduces the stray light allowing for a
clearer image.
Peep sight
9

K G Bearman

INITIAL SETTING-UP OF THE SIGHT

The sight track should be

parallel with the string.

Centre line of limbs

and riser.

The scope lens should be

parallel with the string.
The scope should be
centred over the string;
this should always hold
the
same
position
wherever the scope is on
the sight track.

Have the bow propped vertically on a bow stand you can check that it is perfectly upright by using
a spirit level. The best place to check this is the bowstring, once this is done adjust the sight track
to be vertical and in line with the bowstring.
Adjust the windage on the sight to get the centre of the scope in line with the string at the same
time lining the string up with the alignment marks put on the limbs earlier. This line-up should
stay true whether the scope is at the top or bottom of the track. Ensure the bow is still held vertical
and adjust the scope so that the bubble in the scope spirit level is central. If any adjustment was
made, check again to see if the centre of the scope is still in line with the string. If it is not then
further adjustment is necessary.

10

K G Bearman

STABILISATION
There are many different types and styles of attachments
to assist with stabilisation. To cover the subject fully
would take a long time and need many words. The basic
starting area is using a long rod. This is a single rod
fitted to the front of the bow and in many cases is
sufficient for stabilising a compound bow. These can be
made of many materials and they come in a variety of
lengths.
These rods can be of a single tube or several smaller rods
fitted together to make one rod. Usually on compound
bows the long rod is of greater diameter and stiffer than
the long rods fitted to recurve bows. There are many
reasons for this and would fit into the category
mentioned earlier about time etcetera.
However, I would suggest before any advice is given
about the purchase of stabilisation find a friendly archer
and ask if it would be possible try their stabilisation
before any purchase is made. This will certainly save
money and often a lot of time when visiting the archery
shop to make a purchase. Never send for any
stabilisation by mail order unless you have tried that
particular type and know exactly what you are
getting.

Stabilisation is a personal subject and is selected on

much criteria each of us selecting on what feels best for
us. The trouble is, unless we try everything on the
market how do we know what we have selected is best
for us? That is why I advocate trying as many different
set-ups as you can before a purchase is made.

When these eleven steps have been completed it will then be necessary to go through the
full tuning procedure which cam be found in the GNAS coaching manual.

11

K G Bearman