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2375 10366 1 PBaa
2375 10366 1 PBaa
491
PRESSURE
CELL
!
5KC
OSC
|| |~j~" ZERO
AMP
l-j-9 <UADJUSTEF
RECORDER
OSCILLO
OISCRI
PHASE
SHIFTER
POWER
SUPPLY
A C
IOOV
Piston
@ Magnetostriction tube
Magnetizing cell
@ Lead wire
() Rubber membrane
() Lever
FIG
o CLAPOTIS
20
X SHOCK
u
o
18
>
16
14
H.
BROKEN
~-> -^^
10
08
06
04
""*
<
V --^
^_
1
* .J
02
2
34
'"!
FIG
681
H,/Lo
/ X
^> SI
wX
i1
"
34
IO"
68
492
COASTAL ENGINEERING
dy, and the wave height in deep water H<> as the ordinate after
the expression of Rundgren'-Vho has taken the case of 1/9.8
beach slope., The authors are mainly concerned with the region
of wave pressure due to the broken waves in this paper,.
Several samples of wave height reduction of the broken
waves as the decrease of water depth is given in Fig<,3>, from
which it is recognized that the average tendency of these data
is well expressed by a straight line. The straight line in
this figure is introduced from the following assumption; that
is, the broken wave holds its critical height determined by
the solitary wave theory^at each particular water depth. Pig.
4 is the comparison between the hypothetical curves and the
field observation data of wave transformation inside the surf ,.
zone at the Niigata West Coast obtained by T. Ijima and others.
From these results it is indicated that the above assumption
is applicable for our present analysis as a first order approximation, hence
H = 0.78d
(1)
where H is the wave height at the depth of water d As the
same rule is shown in Fig. 5 the comparison on wave celerity
inside the surf zone between the experimental data and the
calculated ones by using Eq(2) which is introduced on the
basis of the solitary wave theory combining with Eq(l)
c =^g(H + d) = Vl.78gd
(2)
where c is the wave celerity and g the acceleration of gravity.
The agreement is rather gooda
PRESSURE DISTRIBUTION ON VERTICAL WAIL
According to the careful investigations on the transformation of wave inside the surf zone mentioned above and on
the vertical distribution of wave pressure against a vertical
sea wall, the following assumptions are introduced:
1) The static pressure works on a vertical wall up to a certain
height above still water level hc, till the bottom of
structure.
2) The dynamic pressure distributes simply in a shape of
triangle with its maximum pressure intensity at still water
level and zero both at the height of ht above still water
level and at bottom.
Fig.6 gives the relationship between the wave pressure
intensity at still water level p, and the water depth at the
foot of sea wall d', while Fig.7 gives the relationship
between the additional wave pressure intensity above the
static water pressure at the bottom of vertical wall p.^/ and
d' . By using these data the following Eqs.(3), (4) and (5)
are obtained.
hc - 1.2d'
(3)
p, = ffc2/2 + Jgh
= (l.78gd')f//2 + 1.2jgd'
- (0.89f + l^Xfgd'
(4)
f - 1.8
(5)
493
Hcttr
/#
12
Xo
0
10
8
T sec
<
o
A
A
4
2
j/
J0_
10
FIG
20
d cm
0.8
i.o
1.2
I .4
I .6
I .8
2.0
2.2
25
30
35
Hm
4
3
2
'-.'.0
.'
"*"""' "."
,
-*" .
*. .
^c
50
100
150
200
250
300 m
50
100
150
200
250
300 m
50
100
150
200
DISTANCE FROM SHORELINE
250
300 m
Hm
5
4
3
2
Hm
4
3
FIG
____-
__
COASTAL ENGINEERING
494
C cm/sec
200
A
\J&&
100
.--;'
p'
/
/
'"
/x
H./L.
X
A
m
+
A
0.097
0.053
0.039
0.028
0.027
0.019
0.013
0.011
d cm
FIG
FIG
H./L. Tsec
30
P,
gr/cm
0
S
A
X
0.041
0.028
0.039
0.053
0.097
1.8
1 .4
1.2
1.0
0.8
a /
0
0
Q
dSJ
>
/
A
10
/*
,\
//
*> A
<
/ c r-
dH' cm
12
495
d'em
FIG 7 --ADDITIONAL WAVE PRESSURE INTENSITY AT BOTTOM
1.2 d'
) 'A 2.2W0V
p^-swd'smB
(^=2.2WCl'
1.2
1.0
T
o i o eec
14
A 18
0.8
A/
/ o
Pe-*
0.6
'
0
A
0.2
/o
04
/
0.2
0.4
Q6
Sin 9
0.8
1.0
1.2
496
COASTAL ENGINEERING
Zcm
10
bo
30pgr/cml
inMiJJJiiiiimiiim
7i7m/7mmrm
1:0.5
497
COASTAL ENGINEERING
498
FIG
13
I :3
PRESSURE
GAUGE
N03( +85 cm
NO 2
+45 cm
NO I ( + 5 cm
0.5
FIG
, S.WL.
I m
Xf/n
09
/
/
y%
/
09
,>
05
J
I
ri
I
/
/
0.1
005
fl
0.05
c
001
3 4
FIG
6 8 10
20
3 4
6 8 10
T sec
T sec
(Q)
(b)
20
499
500
COASTAL ENGINEERING
0)0.
f-
-y^~
^^
3?
a?
aQ
H
as
o
S
a
a
>
is
K
Q
H
a
o
0
a
si
s>
<
501
Table 1
H
cm
11.9
12.5
13.0
14.0
18.3
16.3
16,1
15.9
16.7
13.8
11.6
T
a
sec cm
2.3 6.5
2.3
2.0
2.0
1.8
1.7
1.5
1.4
1.2
1.1
0.9
d /H
H /L
gr/cm
0.015
0.015
0.021
0.022
0.038
0.035
0.044
0.055
0.073
0.081
0.090
0.55
0.52
0.50
0.47
0.36
0.40
0.40
0.41
0.39
0.47
0.56
z*
cm
z *
gr/cm
cm
-2.7 175
-2.8
125
119
196
181
150
150
169
143
128
102
112
-0.8
0.2
-0.9
-0.8
-0.8
-1.7
-1.6
-1.3
-1.7
-1.9
015
/Vv/R
0.10
(kycm)
\j
yV
r
J
/--
/Pl~
s~i-''' \
sr-
V
f,
""
12
T9
(sec)
z^
H*3
(m)
12
FEB I, 64
12
FEB. 2, '64
COASTAL ENGINEERING
502
0
P,
QI5
P.
P
a
aio
p
*.
aos
a
a
it
11
orf>
0 O
o
(kg/cm)
0.22 kg/erf
///777
7777777777777777777777777;
FIG
+8.5
VJJJ7/7/J/J/I/////////////)////////////////////
FIG. 23 --TOTAL WAVE FORCE MEASUREMENT
22 --CALCULATED PRESSURE
503
I!