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Subject: Information for Muktinath Dham

-----------------------------------------------------------This is an information for all devotees who would like
to particiate in comming Muktinath Dham Tour. On
Septemper 2002. We well welcome everbody atlest to
have darsan of Lord Muktunda and achive
transencendental libaration from this world.
writen by Bhaktisiddhanta Swami.

Kali Gandaki 2002

After several years of worshipping the Lord in His

shaligram sila form, last February was an opportunity
to go visit a few of His Homes on the Kali Gandaki in
Nepal, from Jomsom , Kanbeni up to the famous
Muktinath which is 1000 meters above the sacred
winding tributary of millions of Supremes. Anyone who
goes or has gone will remember this experience as one
of the highlights of one's life. It is so humbling to
have darshan of this unequaled setting of the Lord's
virat rupa of changing skies, snow capped mountains,
and serene townships along the Kali Gandaki providing
a constant abisek of the Lord in one of His `most
personal and unique forms'.

Everyone who visits may have a different time

schedule which will determine how long and where you
will go. Remember one trip will invite repeated
visits. Our journey was a 12 day affair leaving and
returning to Vrindaban. If one is going to search for
shaligrams then 5 days or so in the mountain areas is
plenty for ones full satisfaction in finding Lords
along with the demanding exercise involved in looking.

Firstly, I flew roundtrip from Delhi to Katmandhu

which cost $290 US(I went alone...no one else could
come) Foreigners pay full fares on these routes. If
you have an Indian body the ticket will be around
$150. We were blessed with some Maoist uprisings in
Nepal, a problem just in certain areas between the

government and rebels which brought no danger to

tourists but in reality scared most away. This was
niceIless people and more nature. Generally February
thru to September can be busy times.
In Katmandhu, apart from the temple, is an area
called `Tamal' where the foreigners all go. It is
protective here and provides all kinds of camping and
travel accessories that you may need. The prices in
Nepal are 1/3 what you find in the west with all the
name brands. One can rent a warm jacket or sleeping
bag for around 25 Nrupees a day, eliminating useless
luggage as you visit the dhamas. We spent a few days
there which helped with any needed altitude
adjustment.

Around the neighboring Buddhist temples like

Pasupatinath(near the airport)and market places many
shaligrams are available and of course it is an
offence to place a price or sell a shaligram but there
is no harm if they are given to one as a gift.

Our schedule was to fly the sectors between

Katmandhu-Pokhra-Jomsom by plane(around $60 USD each
sector times 4 plus $28 for the required hiking
permit, airport taxesIapprox. $300). This way we could
use all of our available energy for searching. If one
is fortunate to have more time then walking these
routes takes 3-5 days. Arrangements can be made for
horseback excursions also.

The flight from Katmandhu to Pokhra(35 minutes) is

on a 40 seater plane and the one to Jomsom is a 24
seater. This is a change for in the past they used to
have a 12 seater nicknamed the `vomit express'. I know
on the Jomsom leg Indradumnya Swami once had a rare
but interesting upside down view from his window of
the area just before landing. But now with the bigger
planes the ride is quite stable and tolerable. In
Pokhra the place to go is `Lakeside'. Here with lake
views and the backdrop of snowy mountains is your
first glimpse into a reality. Again you will find the
lodging and whatever hiking supplies one may need.
Many shaligrams will be visible in the market area.

Here is a list of items (if you are going to stay in

a lodge) that should be taken(at least for
February-March)IApril through to September is warmer.
1 thermos(for herbal teas and hot milk(powdered
milk provided at the lodges)
2 warm apparel(long underwear,hat etc.)
3 gloves
4 gum boots(water resistant for wading through
the water)
5 muesli mixes, nut bars etcI
6 candles(occasional lighting needs and can even
give a little warmth which can soften the morning
brisk air within ones room)
7 map(available in Pokhra and KatmandhuIgood
quality and inexpensive)
8 goggles(high windsIsand and glare in the
glacier areas)
9 camera(your crazy if you don't record the trip
for the others)
10 basic shoes for climbing(if you stick on the
main trail you won't need hiking boots)
11 Decent backpack with suitable pockets to hold
essentials

Then walking from Jomsom to Kanbeni(2 hour hikeI8

hours for river
enthusiasts) then a later trek up to Muktinath(2 -4
hours depending one abilities in the high altitudesIan
elevation of a mere 3,800 meters) and then half the
time in reverse. Quaint lodging facilities are in each
area for 1$ to $2 US dollars a night. I found it
advantageous to rent rooms in all 3 locations leaving
shaligrams and personal items that would aid to light

traveling between the sectorsI and of course you can't

beat the prices.

Leaving the KaliGandaki at Kanbeni to climb up to

Muktinath is a highlight. I felt that it was maya to
leave the Gandaki to go into the mountains but I was
wrong. As one ascends you reach plateau after plateau
where you think that you have reached the summit, but
it just keeps on going. Because of the altitude and
our physical state we had to rest 35 times on the way
up(sometimes after every 100 steps) and only 3 times
on the way down. You were cursing the person who made
these large stone stairs at the closing
intervals(almost like a malicious test). Finally you
do reach the town of Muktinath and above the
town(another 45 minutes) is a Laxmi-Narayana temple
built in a glacier(from where the mountain pan is
taken). There are 108 shower spouts coming from the
glacier on the back wall of the shrine with the best
water that makes the journey a complete success(some
fanatical devotees even shower there). We spent one
night in Muktinath and even though 1000 meters higher
than Kanbeni was warmer because the highwinds on the
river level make it more austere. To our surprise many
special shaligrams were found and given to us by
different pilgrims on the path downward.

What adds a cultural mystique to the mountain paths

and the flat areas of the Kali Gandaki are the teams
of yaks and mules that would traverse the steep slopes
carrying supplies back and forth from each area. The
owner would be behind a team of 6 or more animals that
methodically climb and descend(they could probably
have done it blindfolded), stepping out of the way of
persons who would approach from the opposite way. Each
would wear an enchanting bell(like one of those wind
chimes) which would create a sattvic atmosphere,
especially needed when you round a sharp corner on a
narrow path and if without the bellI without a
warningIwell you tell meIyou are quietly rounding a
blind corner bend over a 500 meter canyon and suddenly
you come nose to nose with a large personality with
long hornsIhow would you react? So the bells do
provide tranquility and safe travels. On the pan of
the Gandaki you will note on the bottom right-hand
side of the picture a tiny line of such a team

sauntering along. This gives you an appreciation for

the vastness of the area.
One can note that the area north of Kanbeni is
known as Mustang which is a no mans zone and is a
buffer area to the Chinese boarder. It is illegal for
foreigners to go into this region and your trekking
pass does not allow entrance there. This area is less
traveled and leads after many kilometers to the
well-known Damodhar Kund which is one of the quarters
where the shaligrams originate. There are many here
that may be a little rougher than those found in the
other areas of the Kali Gandaki. They become smoothly
featured as they are brought southward through the
naturally winding concourse leading down to Beni.This
Kund can be accessed as long as you are accompanied
with a government guide and a painful permit of $1000.
HH. Indradumnya Swami once took a helicopter to this
hidden site. You would have to ask him Who he found.
The Tibetans and sadhu's can travel here freely and I
know one devotee in Vrindaban who has the proper
physique and wants to venture up there as a local
sadhu and pray for the Lord's special darshan.
We crossed the boarder of this no mans land in the
Mustang area for one kilometer only. It wasn't worth
attracting unnecessary attention on such a smoothly
running trip. Many years ago Aindra das had gone deep
into this area and the police with attack dogs came
all the way around the mountain thinking that he was a
spy and coerced him to go to the police station for an
interrogation with the barking dogs nipping at his
heels as he stumbled along carrying a large burlap bag
of Lords. Everything was straightened out but the
realization was that there was no point in flaunting
the laws of the land. Actually during my stay in this
region I met a leading member in parliament for
foreign relations and human rights who is trying to
open up the entire Mustang area for tourists. This
covers miles of the Kali Gandaki where only the
natives can go to find shaligrams and who then bring
Them to the metropolitan districts.

Next we went back to Kanbeni for one night to repack

and then to the Jomsom area and the airport. The
return walk was much quicker. Having found so many
shaligrams we had no desire to further agitate the

mind with `Who is where', but just the feeling of

`enough is enough'. At our hotel we could look at
Everyone and see Who wanted to go and Who wanted to
stay. Many shaligrams were duly returned to the Kali
Gandaki.

Searching Tips and

Highlights

In looking for the different shaligrams, one will

notice that they will be sporadically found amongst
the many river stones. Some would be clearly visible
by color and others would be covered by a whitish film
or calcium coating and would have to be brushed and
rinsed. A well known approach to find shaligrams apart
from proper consciousness is to actually hold a
shaligram in the handI They attract Each other.

This mantra should be recited again and again:

dheya sada savitra

mandala madhya-varti
naryanah sarasijasana
sannivistah
keyuravan makara
kundalavan kiriti
hari hiranmaya vapuh
dhrita sankha cakrah

Narayana is the Supreme Personality of Godhead to

be meditated upon in the center of the sun globe. He
is situated on a lotus flower and seated in the lotus
posture. He is adorned with beautiful golden
bracelets, amulets, earrings, necklace and a crown. He

has the golden effulgence and is seen holding the pure

white conch and sudarshan cakra in His lotus hands. Oh
wielder of the conch, disc, club, and other natural
weapons, You are the Lord and resident of the
spiritual realm. Oh indestructible one, protector of
the worlds, oh lotus eyed Lord, please save all of us
who have taken shelter of you and appear before usI...

One will notice that many times the silas will

manifest in veins or sections at a time. I spent most
of my time searching along the waters edge in the
banks of the river on the sides and the middle parts
where the water has carved away giving a clear view of
many layers of silas. Here one can also sift through
the bank and find hidden shaligrams. I wore these
rubber gum boots because one has to wade in the water
sometimes crossing the river at shallow points. The
whole affair became quite hypnotic looking everywhere
at stones and pebbles with the intermittent shaligram
here and there, searching for faces and at night in
dreams the activity was the same.
Apart from the above mantra another more personalized
one drew some attention. "This place is freezing
Iwould Anyone here like to come to the west for warm
baths, curd steaks, chips, sweet rice and burfi?"
After such a select beckoning prayer was presented it
did not fall on deaf earsI.at this point some
very special shilas came forward.

One unique sila, a blue Nrsimha sila whose long

slanting head and open mouth manifested, sitting
perched within the wall of one of these banks
(reminded me of some pillar pastime). Later a green
sila, rather plump with one circular ring around the
top also with open mouth manifested and turned out to
be Matsya. Occasionally a perfectly round could be
found amidst the clusters of river stones. At times
you would not be able to find Anyone and then on
occasion there would be thousands.

Leaving NepalIThe Final Test

Generally when leaving the country the policy for

customs is that sadhu's can take a few shaligrams with
them. The main concern for these officials is that
persons don't take large amounts of shaligrams out for
fear of the selling ventures that could happen as a
result. Technically the shaligrams are viewed as
geological fossils.

My realization was that the final hurdle to leave the

country was based on ones entire attitude in relating
with the residents during one travels. If Krsna wants
to make His appearance that is His mercy. If He also
wants to leave the country then no one can stop you.
If on the trip you respect the pilgrims in the
area(His parts and parcels)then the Lord may make
special arrangements.

At one hotel in Jomsom one Indian pujari from Puri

had to leave behind one giant sila around 70 kilos in
the hotel water fountain because the officials at the
airport would not allow such a Passenger on the plane
due to weight restrictions. Maybe he should have spent
mere $60 dollars and purchased a seat for this Person.
This man did say that he will return somedayI probably
to bring the Lord down by horse back.

My situation was not as obvious as his but somehow

or another we had 250 shaligrams(many of which were to
be given later to those who are already worshipping),
large and medium sized to small which collectively
could have raised a few eyebrowsIwhat to do. Our best
course was to place most of the small round ones(70)
in a new sock which was then inserted into a thermos,
part of my carry on. The larger silas were either
carefully wrapped within my sleeping bag and various
small boxes within the check on. Also I had this
anglers vest which had around 20 pockets which could
come in handy for any surplus Personalities.

At the entrance to all the airports because of the

conflict with the Maoist Rebels the government placed
soldiers to frisk and search all who entered.
Fortunately at the hotel (Moms Hotel) that I stayed
in, a boy who lived there also worked for the airlines
and as we passed through the military check point I
was ushered through. Most of the shailigrams had to be
taken as carry on because checked baggage was limited
to 15 kilos.
Because the metal detectors were dysfunctional a
body and bag search was required to get into the gate
area. In order to keep the officer absorbed I placed
the heavy bag onto his table and before he asked
started to show him most of the contents within
glorifying what we had. "Tooth brush, tongue scraper,
camera, glovesIflashlight". He looked at me
quizzically thinking `Oh a very excited monk'. He also
began to enjoy the rasa and overlooked two aluminium
cases that had 25 shaligrams in them, but he did pick
up the thermos which for some reason was very heavy
and said "What do we have here?". In the spirit of the
entire exchange I opened the thermos and pointed to
the bulging sock of shaligrams inside and saidI
"Thingy!"(which is a generic Australasian statement
for an item of interest). The officer responded in
full agreement and said "Oh IyesI" and motioned me
through.
As the plane took to the air with the Gandaki and
millions of silas shrinking in size, jaw-like mountain
peaks passing by, outstretched rugged woodland below
and then all vanishingIit was like an entrance to and
exit from a spiritual time warp. One could not help
but appreciate the special mercy that has been
allowed, a relationship, a friendship and closeness
with such a place followed byI a desire to return.

Our next challenge was the customs at Pokhra which

went well also but the real test was to get through
the customs at Katmandhu in leaving the country. Again
the metal detectors were inoperative so everyone was
frisked as part of the screening. I was thinking how
we had come all this wayI.we were so close to
completing our goal. By Their mercy many Lords had
been found. Will They allow Themselves to be carried

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out(in reality They are the carriers)? Our consolation

was simply if Krsna wants to go then nothing can stop
Him and if He doesn't want to go then that is His
Mercy also. Back up plans were in our mind that if
need be to return to Delhi by bus if there is a
problem etc. One thing was for sure it was nice time
to pray.
The previous histories went through our mind where
the officials would sometimes allow devotees to take
shaligrams out of the country and at other times not.
What a meditationIthe anxiety of a transcendental
smuggler. OkI well what's going to happen next?
The first security guard felt something round
underneath my shirt(the multipocketed angler vest) and
said "Whats this". With a little effort I pulled out a
Matsya sila with edges like a samosa and he exclaimed
"Oh shaligram! " and lets me goIHe then breezed
through my bags with no real concern. Nectar. It seems
that this is the final check point. I can't believe
itIeverything is going on so effortlessly. We had
finally made it to the gate and now all we had to do
was walk out to the concourse and get onto the plane.
As our flight
was called it was time to go
through the gate down the stairs and then wait in line
asI people wereI.being searched againI as they boarded
the plane. This was too much. So close but so far. To
speed up the process two lines were made. On the left
the main customs agent was posted and on the right a
female officer. As the line shortened with my turn
approaching, I noticed that this one Swiss gentleman
was stopped by the senior customs official. A billiard
ball was confiscated from his bag and placed on the
floor not to be returned. I guess they were looking
for anything that could be used as a weapon on board.
Here I was 75 steps from my seat, heart thumping, with
the final customs troll standing before me, an
innocent skinny monk, armed with a complete arsenal of
`Weapons'. Then the female officer waived me over to
her table and began to thoroughly search my bags. The
aluminum containers that were missed at the previous
airports became an immediate curiosity for her. Again
the famous question "Whats in this?". She reached into
one box and pulled out Lord Nrsimhadeva (He was on His
way to the Melbourne temple) Who was certainly bigger
that a billiard ball and had a fine combed mane

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adorning His head. I said "shaligram". She looked

worried and shook her head. She then held the Lord out
giving an unforgettable darshan to the senior official
who stood behind me with all kinds of contraband items
at his feet and she said "ShaligramIcan he take These
on the plane?" He scrutinized the Lord and then
looked at me up and down(all glories to vaisnava
dress) and said "Its Ok" and motioned for me to go up
the stairsIMission accomplished. The Lords have given
Their sanction to comeIThat was the most comfortable
plane seat I had ever sat in, a perfect place to take
the `Weight' off your feet.

Distributing and Receiving

By Their design a wonderful victory was at hand. Our

previous exposure to the worship of the shaligram was
with out any experience or knowledge of Their home and
land of play. It was satisfying that They had not
only made Their appearance within our limited world
but had chosen to extend Themselves to others in
different lands. In other words by Their mercy one can
become a medium by which They can enter the life of
another. Some individuals have desired to worship the
Lord in His shaligram sila form but have no access to
Them and can not visit the Kali Gandaki personally.
They have however desired and prayed for the Lord to
come. The deity arranges a maze of avenues to reach
the beckoning sadhaka. Just like in book distribution
the deities in the form of books will search out and
find an individual, who may even be a third party, but
is ready and through the domino effect of `special
arrangements' the bhakta is found. Personally I was
wondering why I had aquired so many silas(my
anticipated plan was 30 at most). So what happened?
As hind sight is easier than foresight an
understanding of why was clear. Krsna had His plan to
enliven His dependents with opportunity of service.
This was the major current of His agenda while our own
wave-like motivation was basically limited to the
`ultimate taste' in the giving of the shaligram to
another. And of course, I wouldn't want to omit that
our motivation could have also involved the

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consolatory prize of the possibility of worshipping a

number of Lords.

Plane travel always means that the Lords are

physically with you. However in these circumstances
many were in the check on baggage. So despite the
wonderful triumph, things were not over yet. Who has
not had that uncanny feeling as you wait in the
airline baggage terminal pondering is it going to me
to lose my luggage this time? Most the people have
been happily reunited with their belongings and you
have to be amongst the few scanning the rotating
rubber belt as it stops and starts. Do you remember
that punch in the gut feeling when the belt stops and
you are the last one around? And by the way you just
happen to be in India! Well at least this trip to the
Delhi airport did not end in this way but these
thoughts were still crowding my mind. The ecstasy of
seeing that `back pack of Lords' finally come into
view closed the curtain on another drama.

Our realization with respect to the shaligrams is

that everything becomes a colorful and attractive
reality of worship when Krsna in this form is placed
in the center. The puja and discussions(have you ever
witnessed a sevak glorifying his Lords amongst a
captive audience telling tales of how they have all
come?) or just waiting for your bags become a
continual exposure to unending absorbtion.

In finally returning to Vrindaban an unplanned sport

beganI to give shaligrams to qualified friends and
brajavasis. In the Padma Purana it is stated that the
giving of a shaligrama sila is the best form of
charity being equal to the result of donating the
entire earth together with its forests etc. For the
aspiring vaisnava the desired wealth is only more
service.
I showed Aindra a selection of 25 and 20
mysteriously disappeared into his care(now a total of
400) and others went here and there to persons who
came forward and asked. As Srila Prabhupada once
remarked to a pujari in LA that was absorbed in her

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service to the Lord that "the deities dress

Themselves". Similarly it was a novelty to see how the
deities were `distributing Themselves'. I noticed
amongst the brajavasis that having the Lord come in
this way was a `special event'. In Vrindaban it is not
difficult to find a shaligram, but the beauty and
rarity is when They are given by someone. Some
shopkeeper friends of mine would immediately place
ornaments on the sila with such devotion and attention
in a way that dwarfed our attempts. One devotee placed
two small rose petals on his Lord's face making some
beautiful lips. Another took his Lords and gave Them
to his spiritual master who wanted to worship this
form and was so delighted with his disciples gift.
Krsna distributed Himself in His holy dhama followed
by the complimentary affair of loving exchanges
amongst His devotees. Everyone was pleased.

In returning to the west, persons who requested were

sent their silas. Some had dreams previously that a
particular Form would come, others were just thinking
within their minds of Who might come andI indeed They
did. Another devotee wrote me a letter afterwards how
he wanted some Lords with chakras(unkown to me at the
time) and low and behold Several came his way.

In overview of this trip my realization is two fold.

Firstly, how kind Krsna is to appear in this world in
His varied Forms in love for His parts and parcels.
The Supreme adventurer then lures the unqualified to
new horizons. Secondly, in support of the above, how
the Lord is pleased at personal dealings amongst his
devotees not only towards Himself but especially with
one another. This is the slipstream of His Mercy which
will pull one and all along to some `amazing places'.