GLAM

SOCIAL MEDIA

SINDHU NAIR
FASHION EDITOR DEBRINA ALIYAH

DEPUTY EDITOR EZDHAR IBRAHIM ALI

SENIOR CORRESPONDENT AYSWARYA MURTHY

SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT AARTHI MOHAN
PHOTOGRAPHER
ROBERT ALTAMIRANO

SUB EDITOR SHELLEY KNIPE

MANAGING EDITOR

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR

DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR

SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER

VENKAT REDDY
HANAN ABU SIAM
AYUSH INDRAJITH
MAHESHWAR REDDY B

FREDRICK ALPHONSO

MANAGER MARKETING SAKALA A DEBRASS

ASSISTANT MANAGER MARKETING HASSAN REKKAB

MATHEWS CHERIAN

SONY VELLATT
A H M IRFAN

SENIOR MEDIA CONSULTANT DENZITA SEQUEIRA

ASSISTANT EVENTS MANAGER JASMINE VICTOR

BUSINESS HEAD

PRATAP CHANDRAN

SENIOR DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE BIKRAM SHRESTHA

DISTRIBUTION SUPPORT ARJUN TIMILSINA

BHIMAL RAI

BASANTHA P

SENIOR ACCOUNTANT

PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF

CHIEF EXECUTIVE

EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT

Inside this issue, Carolina Herrera and Mario

Testino give us a special behind-the-scenes
glimpse and their thoughts on collaborating for
Carolinas Autumn Winter 2015 campaign. Visit
our Facebook page to view an exclusive video
on the making of the campaign, which was shot
in gorgeous townhouse encapsulating South
American essence.

EVENTS OF THE MONTH

The MidEast Watch & Jewellery Show
6th to 10th October
Expo Centre Sharjah, UAE
Held under the patronage of His Highness Dr
Sheikh Sultan Bin Mohammed Al Qassimi,
UAE Supreme Council Member and Ruler of
Sharjah, the show will feature 500 exhibitors
across 30,000 sq metres of exhibition space at
all the six halls at ECS. The designs this season
will be bright and bold, with an exciting
assortment of jewellery that are rich in tones.
This show will also be the curtain raiser for
the momentous 40th edition of the
exhibition, taking place next year. The
exhibition is open from 12 noon to 10pm
daily, and 4pm to 10pm on Friday, 9th
October. Admission is free.

COMING UP

YOUSUF JASSEM AL DARWISH

SANDEEP SEHGAL
ALPANA ROY

GLAM IS PUBLISHED BY ORYX ADVERTISING CO. WLL.

THE CONTENTS OF THIS PUBLICATION ARE SUBJECT TO COPYRIGHT AND

CANNOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT THE EXPRESS PERMISSION OF THE
PUBLISHER AND/OR LICENSE HOLDER. ALL RIGHTS REST WITH DATALOG
MEDIA SOLUTIONS. THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR
ANY ADVERTISING CONTENT CARRIED IN THIS PUBLICATION.
CONTACT INFO@OMSQATAR.COM, GLAM@OMSQATAR.COM
WWW.ISSUU.COM/ORYXMAGS
WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/GLAMQATAR
CALL US: +974 44550983, 44672139, 44671178, 44667584 FAX: +974 44550982

H&Ms annual designer collaboration will be

hitting stores next month and this years
partnership with Olivier Rousteing of Balmain is
definitely going to get the queues going at stores.
Weve got the exclusive interview with Olivier,
who will be sharing his inspiration and thoughts
on the collection.

G Talk
Though we have always been at the forefront of bringing light to the growing fashion
industry in Qatar, we understand that cultural misconceptions will always be a consideration
in our work. We often get asked, especially by those newly arrived in this city, Who buys all
those fashionable clothing in the stores here, and dont they just wear black all the time?
If style is not something of priority in your perceptions, then it is easy to overlook and
dismiss the sea of black. Fortunately, the global fashion community has become increasingly
interested in exploring the idea of inclusiveness and diversity to find different definitions
of being stylish. Lanvin and Dolce & Gabbana are among the luxury brands that have
sought out atypical models for their campaigns, from older women to those who prefer
androgynous looks. But it is H&Ms latest casting of hijab-donning Mariah Idrissi in their
video campaign that has caught our eye, because of its relevancy to our cultural archetype.
Mariah, a social media style star based in London, looked effortlessly chic in a dusty pink
overcoat, a pair of wide-legged palazzo pants worn with a basic white top, and pointy flat
shoes, as she leaned casually against the door of a cafe. A pair of round-rim sunglasses gave
her extra points for cool, and the whole outfit could have been worn by just about anybody
of any cultural background, if it were not for the long scarf that Mariah had draped around
her head and neck.
The entire look was built from H&Ms collections, and there certainly isnt a dedicated
corner to hijab-sters at the stores, just as there are no dedicated departments for senior
citizens or the transgendered at Lanvin or Dolce & Gabbana. And it works entirely both
ways too. Uniqlo collaborated with hijab-wearing designer Hana Tajima on a collection that
espoused modest silhouettes, but featured both hijab and non-hijab wearing models on its
campaigns, looking highly comfortable in the pieces. And at the recent Coach SS16 show
in New York, Muslim singer-songwriter Yuna rocked an urbanwear look from the brand,
complete with a matching turban.
So the question truly, is not who is buying whats in the stores, but what wonderful style
ideas have been born in the merging of culture and contemporary fashion.

EDITORS PICK
WE CANT WAIT TO GET OUR
HANDS ON THE APPLE WATCH
HERMS. FEATURING FINELY
CRAFTED LEATHER BANDS IN
DISTINCTIVE STYLES FROM THE
FRENCH LEATHER HOUSE,
INCLUDING THE SINGLE TOUR,
DOUBLE TOUR AND CUFF, WITH
THE DESIGN AND FUNCTIONALITY
OF THE APPLE WATCH, THIS IS
THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS. THE
WATCHES START FROM QR4,000.

26 \ TRENDS
2

SAVE

VS

SPLURGE

COAT
CHECK

SAVE
1 Conscious Collection bomber jacket, QR335,

H&M, Villaggio Mall.

2 Leather biker jacket, QR595, Pull & Bear, Villaggio Mall.

3 Cape sweater, QR600, Stylestalker, West L.A.

4 One direction jacket, QR585, Premonition, West L.A.

Whats your fail-proof coat style

every autumn? The one that you
always end up grabbing right
before you head out the door, just
because it matches with everything
and is all so comfortable? A jacket
is always a saviour that instantly
polishes a look, and it is also the
statement piece that sets the tone
for the rest of your outfit. This
season, invest in a solid, basic
black sweater as the building block,
the experiment with colours and
shapes for outerwear. The bomber
jacket is a trendy addition that
works well over the abaya, while
the classic leather jacket gives off
cool vibes during the day. Have an
oversized coat handy for special
occasions, as it is all the rage on the
catwalks.

SPLURGE
1 Printed sequinned-sleeve bomber jacket, QR3,300, OTT.

2 Leather mink collar jacket, QR27,000,

Alexander McQueen, Dubai Mall.

3 Black sweatshirt, QR1,500, Stella McCartney, Dubai Mall.

4 Cape coat, QR1,175, Ted Baker, Villaggio Mall.

GLAM / ON OUR

RADAR

OCTOBER 2015

AN EDIT OF THINGS THAT ARE HOT NOW

CINDY CHAO
The Art Jewel Four
Seasons Collection
Ruby Rose Earri

Bottega Veneta art

of collaboration
book cover image

CINDY CHAOS NEW ADDITION TO

THE FOUR SEASONS COLLECTION

BOTTEGA VENETA: ART OF COLLABORATION

Hitting bookstores this month, this
is the fashion book to get your hands
on. Documenting the collaborations
between the houses creative director,
Tomas Maier, and all the artists who
have contributed to the creation
of the houses campaign, it is a
comprehensive chronicle of Tomass
initiative that started in 2002. The
designer worked with some of the
most interesting photographers of our
times on these campaigns, many of
whom are from outside the fashion

world, including Peter Lindbergh,

Steven Meisel, Nick Knight and
Robert Longo. The book sheds light on
how these individuals interpreted the
houses modernist aesthetics, making
it a book not just for fashion lovers,
but also photography aficionados.
Tim Blanks wrote the foreword,
while literary critic Daphne Merkin
contributes the essays for the book.
(image caption:BOTTEGA VENETA:
Art of Collaboration by Tomas Maier,
Rizzoli New York, 2015.)

Cindy Chao - The Art Jewel unveils the

latest Black Label masterpiece from its
Four Seasons Collection, the ruby rose
earrings and brooch set. The ruby encrusted
earrings and brooches were originally
created for Ziyi Zhangs custom-made gown
by Carolina Herrera, which she wore at
this years China-themed Met Gala. When
shown a sketch of Ziyi Zhangs gown, Cindy
envisioned an image of crimson rose petals
drifting in the wind, and gracefully falling
on snow-covered ground, she says. The
essential idea was to evoke an interactive
experience in wearing brooches the wearer
is encouraged to devise her own story and
mood through the placement of the rose
petals. Accentuating the centre diamonds,
eight gradients of rubies were paved to
mirror the velvety and soft texture of real
rose petals. The vivid colour combination of
bold ruby petals and yellow lacquered pistils
resemble the natural colours found in a red
rose, while the use of a specially oxidised
silver base, and yellow gold tracing the
silhouette at the back of the petals, produce
a surreal sense of allure and elegance.

30 \ TRENDS

STELLASPORT AW15
The Stella McCartney and Adidas
collections have now become a staple
each season, and this autumn, the
inspiration is drawn from wildlife
with explosive prints lending charm
to part of the collection. Tights, pants,
hoodies, tank tops and jackets have
been revamped with the StellaSport
signature, which gives a stylish edge
to practical pieces that boast climateregulating technology. The new
collection also includes a range of

creative bright blue layering, daring

typefaces and denim detailing. Key
pieces include tights in midnight grey,
featuring a front-facing denim design
on seamless construction for total
freedom of movement, woven shorts
with granite lettering to show off your
tough girl attitude, socks and a racerback sports bra in electric blue and
bright flash red tipping, as well as the
Yvori shoe, which is made from a suave
stretch suede canvas.

LES 3 BOUTONS
A 14-year-old girl receives a surprise
from the local postman - a package
with a magical magenta ball dress,
ten times her teenage size. From
here, Jasmine - a headstrong realist,
yet dreamer - takes us on a modern
'anti-fairy tale' through caves
and stalagmites, streets and shop
windows, obsessions and everyday
empowerment. Les 3 Boutons, the 10th
commission from Miu Miu Womens
Tales, is directed by the legendary
87-year-old Agns Varda, the winner

of the first honourary Palm dOr at the

Cannes Film Festival this year. This
movie is full of playful hallmarks from
her six decades of filmmaking. Its
playing a game with reality, Varda
says. The game is called cinema. The
story reverses the clichs of girlhood
where Jasmine prefers school uniform
and education to the easy allure of a
Cinderella lifestyle. Womens Tales is
Miu Mius initiative of short-film series
by women who critically celebrate
femininity in the 21st century.

ASPINAL OF LONDON
X TRE CCILE
A bold and quirky collection of bags
comes to life in a collaboration between
Aspinal of London and fashion label tre
Ccile. The tre Ccile team selected
their favourite styles from the Aspinal of
London collection and re-worked them
as an extension of the tre Ccile AW15
collection. The collection features the
bold use of contrasting panels of colour
in calf and rubberised leathers , soft
nappa leather printed in plaid, applied
in an out-of-proportion scale and bold
1990's inspired graphics. Co-founder of
tre Ccile, Yasmin Sewell, describes
the collaboration as subversive, in the
best English fashion tradition. I love
the idea of taking something grown-up,
classic, serious and messing it up, having
fun, taking it to an unexpected place."
The collection spans five key bag styles
including the chic ladylike Mayfair bag,
the cute mini trunk clutch, the sporty
rucksack and mini rucksack and the
utilitarian essential tote. The hero bags are
accompanied by a range of small leather
accessories and notebooks.

32

DIOR CHIFFRE ROUGE

This watch, though categorised for men, has caught our
eye for its subtle and sleek aesthetics. The 2015 version
is a limited edition of 100 pieces, featuring the Elite 682
movement by the Zenith manufacture. With a widened face
and slightly slimmer watchcase, the timepiece retains its
original asymmetric style, thanks to the pushbutton at 10
oclock. All of this rests on a perforated black leather strap.

Timekeeping in
TAG HEUER CARRERA - CARA DELEVINGNE
To celebrate Cara Delevingne joining the brand as
one of its newest ambassadors, a special edition of the
Carrera has been released. With the same signature,
the elegant case with faceted lugs and the clear, highly
legible dial, are in stark contrast to its entirely black
and charcoal grey treatment. For a feminine touch,
and to add an edge to the look, the appliques and
hands are rose gold-plated. A version with a diamondstudded bezel is also available, as well as one with
an aged black calfskin strap, which is padded with
tone-on-tone stitching for a haute couture look. The
back of the case is stamped with the majestic head of a
lion to denote the star sign under which Cara was born
in August 1992, while the inside of the strap bears the
signature of the star herself, in rose gold.

TRENDS / 33
VARINA BY SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
Inspired by the Vara bow, a symbol that iconic of the brand,
the Varina cocktail watch is feminine with a minute charm.
The case is reminiscent of the buckle on the famed ballet flat,
while the iconic grosgrain bow is transformed into an elegant
decoration on the glossy patent leather strap, which can be
replaced with another strap entirely in grosgrain fabric.

Style
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
CELEBRATES VAN GOGH

VERSACE KHAI
The rose gold case with a domed bezel, interprets Versaces
iconic features. The Medusa head sits in the centre of the dial,
against a richly-chiselled diamond pattern background and
is surrounded by an area decorated with a guilloch sunray
design. The iconic Greek key decorates the flange and the
Medusa head is reprised on the embossed crown. Available in a
metal bracelet or a glossy alligator-print leather strap, the topof-the-range model stands out with its diamond-adorned bezel,
blazing red topaz-studded indexes and trendy burgundy strap.

Jaeger-LeCoultre and the Van Gogh

Museum in Amsterdam are presenting a
limited edition of the Reverso Eclipse
watch featuring Van Goghs iconic
Sunflowers on the dial, in homage to the
Dutch master. Painted in 1889, the original
Sunflowers canvas dates to the final
period in Van Goghs life and is owned by
the Van Gogh Museum. Craftsmanship,
art and heritage come together to where
the enamellers recreated the painting of
Van Goghs infamous Sunflowers on the
dial. This unique masterpiece, of which
only five examples have been crafted, is
now on display at the Van Gogh Museum.

44

FOCUS / 45

COVETABLE

HAUTE
COUTURE
Armani Prive

46
Armani Prive
It is a celebration of colour from the
familiar neon fuchsia, to the mysterious
blend of lapis lazuli blue with malachite
green for Armani Priv. Giorgio Armani
manipulates deep and intense palettes to
evoke a sensual emotion and an eccentric
attitude walks the line just between
formal dressing and theatrical
flamboyance. Black sets the tone for the
requisite foundation and the application
of colours brings the story of the
collection to life through embroidered
Swarovski crystals and shimmering lurex

details. The plumage feather

extravaganza, which comes in form of
coats, dresses and trimmings, is a complex
weave of silk thread, wool and trimmed
chenille. Voluminous dresses and skirts
flare from a fitting bodice, a silhouette
similar to the close-fitting jackets with
emphasised shoulders paired with
colour-block soft velvety trousers. A
plunging neckline long velvet dress with
chenille fringes, and a sleeveless top made
entirely of degrade fuchsia feathers has
our hearts set on a night of celebration.

FOCUS / 47
Atelier Versace
With the ethereal drama of
deconstruction and sumptuous raw edges,
it is the passions of a woman, exposed
and elevated, says Donatella Versace on
the collection. The feminine signature of
the house meets an edgy rebellious spirit
delivered through high platform heels on
all the looks, be it as a boot or a sandal.
Tailoring is cleverly subtle with minimal
details, allowing the lightweight chiffon
layers to float. A new sense of ease comes
from an oversized embellished sweater

which hangs off the shoulder and is worn

over a floor-length embellished slip dress
that is held by slender shoulder straps.
Micro sequins are double-faced in silver
and purple to create transparency on a
dramatic long gown with cut-outs, while
bands of silk chiffon are decorated with
Swarovski crystals and chainmail.
Transparency is a recurring theme, in the
softness of a long sheer dress with
velvet-lined boning and crystal
embroidered flowers, and in the lace.

48
Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld transformed the Grand Palais
into an opulent casino with stars such as
Kristen Stewart, Julianne Moore and Vanessa
Paradis crowding around the blackjack tables
as a highlight to the show. Models resemble
1920's starlets, with short and severe flapper
girl hair and theatrical make-up in the form
of bold, straight brows and deep red lips. A
boxy aesthetic dominates in indispensable
two-piece suits of straight lines and
top-heavy forms. Shoulders are emphasised
with bulky jackets, while collars were kept

wide or high and military. Utilitarianism

comes in the outsized woollen jackets with
deep pockets and large, contrasting lapels,
while skirts are worn narrow and to the
knee. Karl introduces jackets made entirely
from a singular piece of fabric, using a new
3D technique, Selective Laser Sintering, for a
faux quilting effect. The idea was to take
the most iconic jacket from the 20th century
and create a 21st century version, which
technically wasnt even imaginable at the
time it came about, the designer says.

FOCUS / 49

Elie Saab
Elie Saabs collection of gilded lace gowns
with intricately woven motifs finds
inspiration in the days of the Byzantine
princesses. Referencing his own early
work in the nineties, the gowns were
reinterpreted to evoke the glistening,
golden palaces of Byzantium.
Painstakingly embroidered vines and
foliage cover a variety of dresses in lace,
silk tulle and chiffon, several with flowing
floor-length capes. Mink fur details
cropped sleeves, collars and purses, while
earthy green, burgundy and black shades
complement the golden glare. The
nostalgic designer closed the show with
a wedding gown described as the very
soul of the house. The gold, sleeveless
gown with a voluminous skirt, long train
and lace embroidered veil, is a reminder
of the dress worn by his wife Claudine at
his own wedding, 25 years ago.

Ralph & Russo

British-based fashion house Ralph &
Russo leads the way with a fairytale
extravaganza of old-school
enchantment, featuring gorgeous,
glittering gowns as its centrepiece.
From silk puffball dresses to romantic
ruffled column skirts, the essence of
the collection is decadently feminine.
Creative director Tamara Ralph narrates
volumes in bold and subtle ways,
balancing out the puffball structures
with whimsical chiffon overlays that
lend embroidered full-length dresses a
swishy effect. Narrow forms are offset
by billowing ostrich feather capes or
gauzy shoulder panels, while a series of
slinky Seventies-style jumpsuits gives a
modern touch. Fabrics are luxurious,
ranging from graceful chiffons to
Chantilly lace, with touches of glass
beading, brocade and fur, perfecting
the luxurious aesthetic. The colour
palette reminds of royal elements of
crisp whites and creams, blush pinks,
soft metallic and burnished jewel tones.

50

Giambattista Valli
Contemporary form with vestiges of
romance, inspires the voluminous skirts
and dresses in cascades of tulle that
trail the catwalk. Delicate mini-dresses
get a grandeur treatment with the
addition of sweeping trains while tops
become a statement, thanks to fluid
peplums that fall to the back of the
ankle. Amidst the billowing maxi
dresses and the Grecian-style robes,
slim-fitting lace trousers, straight-cut

Schiaparelli
Bertrand Guyons debut collection for
the recently re-established Italian
house Schiaparelli, is visionary, strong
and bold. Colours are wild and
spirited, ranging from ruby reds and
hot pinks, to mermaid tones and
zesty citrus hues. Clashing
perspectives feature heavily, with
loud beige plaids offset by pink furs
and embellished blouses teamed with
light, shimmery skirts. Theres also an
emphasis on the mixing and matching
of fabrics to create texture and depth.
Brocade coats, sequin tops, jacquard
suits, cashmere trousers, minks and
tweeds blend together to achieve an
overall effect of unconventional
elegance. Accessories are quirky, like
the whimsical and imaginative
sculpted tiara.

minis and minimalistic smocks convey

a contemporary touch. The Italian
designer indulges his romantic side in
the swathe of delicate floral motifs in
sweet pinks and masculine blacks
against an opulent backdrop of silver
and cream. An exciting contrast runs
throughout the collection, with flashes
of acidic orange, mustard yellow and
emerald green, contributing a
psychedelic undercurrent to the pieces.

FOCUS / 51

HIGHLIGHTS

Dior
Lightness is key at Dior, and is inspired by a Pointillist church. Silhouettes are fluid and breezy,
pitching languid, relaxed lines and insouciant forms. From flowing, semi-sheer maxi dresses
to ankle-length swing coats, the focus is on movement and grace. Fabrics are rich and
luxurious, ranging from taffetas and creped silks, to velvets with the odd touch of regal fur.

Ilja Visser
The architectural collection focuses on
exaggerated 90's proportions, riffing
on oversized jackets and salopettes,
while floating asymmetric slip dresses
inject a feminine softness.

Ulyana
Sergeenko
Inspired by a woman living in a Soviet
communal apartment, the setting for a
bizarre form of shared living, the
collection fluidly explores the imaginary
angles and spaces of the apartment.
Womanly silhouettes are vertical and
light, and decorative confetti-esque
embellishments details the pieces.

52

THE JEWELS

Soie Dior

Acte V The Escape

Simply meaning 'Dior Silk' in French, the high jewellery collection

imagines silk in the form of a ribbon that binds couture with the
world of jewellery. Christian Diors fine jewellery creative director,
Victoire de Castellane, captures the fraction of a second between
one motion and the next, a pink sapphire on a pleat between two
gold paves, or a diamond suspended between two undulating tails.
When you play with a ribbon, its instinctive, ephemeral, and I
wanted to keep that notion of freedom, he explains. In each piece,
gold is manipulated for optimal freedom of movement. River of
diamonds necklaces are composed of different cuts - marquise,
baguette, oval, pear, brilliant - mounted at different heights, so that
their relief conveys the shiny finish of the silk fabric.

The Escape is the second chapter in Louis Vuittons Acte V

collection which looks into modern time where gems are
highlighted by futuristic architectural style. Each piece is
distinctive for its fluidity, as seen on an array of supple
Bayadre (multi-strand) necklaces, sensual bracelets,
voluptuous clip earrings and opulent rings. The hallmark of
the collection is the V motif, which adapts to gentle curves,
fades into abstraction, picks up on the aquatic metaphor,
explores the fan motif and replicates the lotus flower.

Les Talismans de Chanel

Continuing Chanels signature of lucky charms and symbolic pieces, the collection
evokes the idea of the mythical and magical protective powers of the talisman.
Capturing a sense of emanating hypnotic light, the pieces are centred on quatrefoil
patterns. With a combination of mythical and natural totems and charms that are said
to bring good fortune to the possessor, the collection sees a combination of Japanese
cultured pearls, sapphires, multi-colored lacquer and enamel, and diamonds.

FOCUS / 53

GET THE LOOK

Atelier Versace
A bold and slightly bohemian festival vibe
complete with flower garlands for the hair,
marks the spot for the look. Models sported
luminous, dewy skin, with natural-looking
brows and a rose-pink lip. The real focal point
was the eyes, which were ringed in a vibrant,
shimmery green that smattered down
towards the cheekbone for an ethereal look.

Chanel
This is the look that had everyone talking. Karl Lagerfelds hit
squad, comprising make-up artist Tom Pecheux and hair stylist
Sam McKnight, pulled together a challenging, tomboyish
aesthetic inspired by the 1920s. Eyebrows were exaggeratedly
bold, elongated and straight, and were offset by striking red lips
with the cupids bow rounded out for a doll-like effect. Lashes
were kept bare so as to not compete, while an angular sweep of
blush kept things showy. You might want to forgo the bobbed
wig though, unless of course, you have a short bob to begin with!

Armani Priv
Giorgio Armani Privs shocking show in Paris
featured a bold, punkish and unapologetic make-up
look centred on fuchsia lips. Beauty artist Linda
Cantello created a flamboyant make-up vibe by
teaming a nude, matte base with softly smudged
eyes, using a hint of grey shadow and liner. Brows
were dark but slightly blurred. She then filled in the
mouth with a show-stopping pink, resulting in a
pretty tomboy effect. Shocking. Break the rules,
dare to play at being provocative. Why not wear
fuchsia in autumn? Pink is the new red, says Linda.
She prepared the models skin using Armanis Crema
Nera Extrema Supreme Crme Ractivante for a
luminous base, before using her fingers to apply the
Crema Nuda foundation for a natural-looking
coverage and the High Precision Retouch to conceal
any imperfections. A sweep of Poudre Libre Microfil
was then used to keep everything in place.

TREND
REPORT

IT IS A MELANGE OF INFLUENCE THIS SEASON, AND THERES

SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE. WE PICK OUT SOME OF THE MOST
STRIKING TRENDS TO ACE YOUR AUTUMN WARDROBE.
Missoni

Yigal Azrouel

ASYMMETRY
Hemlines, collars, sleeves, silhouettes, and
just about anything can go asymmetrical
this season. The tilted perspectives look
just as natural on separate pieces, or as
an asymmetrical effect achieved through
layering for the cold.
Alexis Mabille

Stella McCartney

CANDIES
There were candy pinks, blues and yellows
all over and even an electrifying palette at
Mary Katrantzou, but Prada won the prize
for the sweetest tooth with an almost
edible-looking collection of futuristic
Balenciaga
baby-doll outfits in pastel shades.
Prada

Mary Katrantzou

TRENDS / 55

Marni

TRIBAL WARRIORS
Strength and grace is all the rage and
designers embody it through collections
that evoke nomadic and tribal
princesses.

Dsquared2

Tory Burch

FLORAL
Floral prints have remained a constant
on the catwalks for a while now, and in
autumn, it comes in a sensual and
mysterious interpretation, mostly as
appliqus on sheer pieces.

Dries Van Noten

Monique Lhuillier

Dolce & Gabbana

56
Roberto Cavalli

Michael Kors

Purificacion Garcia

FRINGES
Tassels and fringes continue from last
season, but in more subtle forms. They
decorate the trims of a Michael Kors
look, run down the lines of a Roberto
Cavalli dress and edge a Purificacion
Garcia tweed dress.

Salvatore Ferragamo

FUR
Ubiquitous, in all shapes, colours and
sizes. Draped over one shoulder to
mimic a stole from the 1940s, or
extravagantly fashioned into oversized
collars and cuffs on coats, jackets,
dresses and gloves. Our favourite is the
V-neck trim on a Balenciaga dress.

Balenciaga

Jason Wu

TRENDS / 57

Carven

THE WHITE DRESS

The alternative proposition to the black
dress, it is a burst of light for a dark
winter. Texture gives life to the
otherwise solid colour, as Victoria
Beckham contrasts with cut outs, Isabel
Marant hems with layers, and Roberto
Cavalli goes bi-material.
Victoria Beckham

Roberto Cavalli

MIXED MEDIUM
It popped up in leather, suede and fur
creations at Fendi, in silky coats in
autumn browns and reds at Etro and as
a subtle grey transition in Carolina
Herrera. It is perfect as a playful
addition or as a detail highlight for
pockets and collars.

Etro

Mc

Carolina Herrera

58
Issey Miyake

Kenzo

Paule Ka

LARGER THAN LIFE

Large wraps that are almost blanket-like is
the new jacket, while coats become
oversized to envelope the body.
Silhouettes look out of proportion but it is
the perfect style to cosy up to during the
cold days.

FANCY PANTS
Trousers get an edgy update with
Dsquared2 jazzing up the peg leg look,
with trousers billowing out round the
thighs before tapering down to a
slim-line fit that is cut off at mid-calf,
while Armani did a tamed version in
subdued greys and marine blues.

Lanvin

Hanley Mellon

Giorgio Armani

TRENDS / 59
Philipp Plein

Lacoste

SPORTSWEAR
The active life is here to stay, and this
season, sports silhouette gets a luxury
makeover with Lacostes tennis dress
embracing fashions slim lines, DKNYs
sweatshirt becomes a dress, while
Philipp Plein goes all out with turning a
jersey into a fur number.
DKNY

THE BEDROOM LOOK

Guccis new creative director, Alessandro
Michele, stunned by unveiling furry slippers
that looked like they were borrowed from
Star Wars Chewbacca. The shoes spilt
opinions, but when viewed in their entirety,
are meant to give off the straight-out-bed lo.
Flat hair, a purposefully unkempt outfit, or
just wrapped in a coat are meant to look as if
you are running out of the house for a quick
coffee from the store downstairs.

Max Mara

Just Cavalli

Gucci

60
Emporio Armani

Paul Smith

Michael Kors

TWEED
The woollen cloth loved by the British
country set is back with a vengeance.
Emporio Armani and Michael Kors both
do cape versions in different lengths and
styles, while Paul Smith channels his
tailoring finest.

WAIST BELT
The kimono obi belt-inspired trend
pops up in the most unexpected places,
leather jackets, long-line dresses and even
on quilted puff parkas. The belts are
textured and are a statement accessory
on their own.

Salvatore Ferragamo

McQ-AW15

Isabel Marant

TRENDS / 61

BEAUTY
ALONG WITH SOME
CONCEPTUAL RUNWAY
PRESENTATIONS, SOME
DRAMATIC BEAUTY
LOOKS DRIVE HOME THE
COLLECTIONS' VISUAL
MESSAGES.
JACQUEMUS

RICK OWENS

The two-faced models at Jacquemus

sported an eye-catching Picasso-esque
look, which saw double facial features
drawn on with eyeliner.

Models were sporting full faces of gold and

silver leaf make-up to match the collections
sphinx theme. The addition of 3D foil shapes
gave the look depth and texture.

ANREALAGE

CHRISTINE PHUNG

MANISH ARORA

Cult Japanese label Anrealage, took

things to the limit in its conceptual show,
with models made up in black paint to
match the monochrome collection and
wearing helmets in the same hue.

A contemporary inversion of the

fingerless glove was on show at Christine
Phung, where models fingertips were
painted in pastel shades to match the
clutch bags they were carrying.

Manish Aroras warrior princess-themed

show featured striking facial jewellry
and war-paint inspired stripes. Boldly
highlighted cheekbones and a gold lip
kept things dramatic.

A
STUDY
IN
FASHION
A COLLECTIVE OF EXHIBITIONS THIS
SEASON GIVES MEANING AND ORIGINS
TO SOME OF THE MOST INFLUENTIAL
FASHION HOUSES OF THIS ERA, FROM
DEFINITIVE GLIMPSES INTO THE LIFE
AND TIMES TO THE INNER WORKINGS OF
THEIR CREATIVE SANCTUM.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

Yves Saint
Laurent:
Style is Eternal

Mademoiselle Priv
In enchanted voyage through the history of the iconic French fashion house, Chanel,
this exhibition documents the brands long and celebrated relationship with couture
and the story behind the legendary Chanel No 5. It also shines the spotlight on the
famous Bijoux de Diamants haute jewellery collection, which was designed in 1932
by Gabrielle Coco Chanel herself and reissued by Karl Lagerfeld for the Spring
Summer 2016 couture show. The exhibition is inspired by Coco Chanels charismatic
personality and irreverent spirit, as well as by the achievements of Lagerfeld. Hosted
at the Saatchi Gallery in London, Mademoiselle Priv will run until November 1.

With a look at the French fashion

designers vision and his lasting
influence on modern womenswear,
the show features 50 of his most
iconic garments, including pieces
from the Russian Collection, the
Mondrian dresses and the Tuxedo.
The exhibition also highlights
designs from his time at Christian
Dior, including a Zphirine dress
that he created for the house when
he was 22-years-old.
The exhibition, taking place at The
Bowes Museum in Barnard Castle,
County Durham, is the first Saint
Laurent retrospective in the UK.
Known as one of the great 20thcentury fashion talents, he is famous
for creating several key items of the
modern womans wardrobe, such
as the pea jacket and trench coat,
the famous 'Le Smoking' jacket and
trouser suit, which became one of
his signature pieces. The exhibition
runs until October 25.

TRENDS / 63
Couture/Sculpture
French-Tunisian designer Azzedine Alaias dresses have
been worn by first ladies and top models, but they have
never fit better than in Rome, where they are on show in
an exhibit that blends sculpture with couture. The bodyskimming, feminine garments on display seem perfectly
at home off the runway, resting among Berninis and other
classical masterpieces. "The exhibition at the Italian
capitals Villa Borghese is not a fashion exhibition, but
rather an exhibition about sculpture, and more precisely
about statues,says gallery director Anna Coliva. "The
designers aim was to make soft sculptures from a material
thats different from bronze or marble, but from cloth,
Coliva explains. Mysterious, long, monochrome robes float
in the Villa Borgheses opulent halls, standing out among
the marble sculptures and classical paintings. Alaia selected
each golden, grey, black or yellow gown to match the main
colour in the paintings around it, making the exhibition
about all the works together, not just his own. Fitted on
barely-there, see-through or dark-coloured mannequins
that give the garments shape, but don't attract attention
to themselves, the dresses and their rich fabrics come
alive with the artworks that surround them. Despite the
challenge that the exhibit posed, Alaia slipped right into it,
said exhibition curator Mark Wilson from the Netherlands,
describing him as more of a classical artist than a fashion
guru. The exhibition will run until October 25.

Lanvin Manifeste
Orchestrated by Alber Elbaz with the support of his team,
this exhibition immerses the visitor in the intimacy of
the fittings, the excitement of the Lanvin shows and
the beauty of its designs. This is a first in the history of
the house, and allow an intimate glimpse into the inner
workings of the creative process. Five rooms are designed
as settings that showcase the work of the designer
not as a monologue, but as a continuous dialogue
between fashion and photography. Over 350 shots by
photographers such as But Sou Lai, Mark Leibowitz,
Katy Reiss, James Bort, Juliette Da Cunha and Alex Koo
reinterpret a passion for fashion. A video facility featuring
the voice of the designer, illustrated by three projections
of backstage images produced by Jean-Christophe Moine,
and showing footage of the shows captured by Sraphin
Ducellier, complements the exhibitions design.
This photo exhibition at the Maison Europenne de la
Photographie in Paris, runs until October 31.

64

wo creative powerhouses
and longtime friends,
Carolina Herrera and Mario
Testino, collaborated to
capture the essence of
Carolina Herrera's Autumn
Winter 2015 campaign.
Bringing together the
different portfolios of the brand, the campaign's
imagery is endearing and intimate, celebrating
familial ties and cultural traditions. Recognised for
his ability to create impactful images rich in lifestyle
and heritage, with his signature sophistication and
gentle touch, the Peruvian-born photographer was
the right partner for the first unified global campaign,
solidifying the iconic style known to Carolina Herrera.
Doing the Carolina Herrera campaign is really
exciting for me in this time in my life - its a world I
know very well, Mario says. Its a South American
world coming to America-bringing its culture,
tradition, values, and sense of family and chic. Its
how South Americans like to be dressed and present
themselves, but the ethos really belongs to Carolina
Herrera herself, he adds.
The story is set in a refined townhouse, where a

BACKSTAGE
CONFIDENTIAL:

CAROLINA
HERRERA
AND MARIO
TESTINO
AN EXCLUSIVE BEHIND-THESCENES LOOK AT THE AUTUMN
WINTER 2015 CAMPAIGN OF
CAROLINA HERRERA.

FOCUS / 65

neoclassical interior is mixed with mid-century

and contemporary art and furniture, with wardrobe
pieces selected from the Carolina Herrera New
York Fall Collection. The collection explores the
different interpretations of water-both nuanced
and literal in colour, pattern, and shape-including a
water-print silk jacquard cocktail dress, an illusion
blue silk gazaar wave gown and a silk cloud jacquard
gown with a deep ocean silk faille top. Featuring
mens and womens lifestyle pieces, the CH Carolina
Herrera looks reflect the same style, spirit and
design sensibility. The luxury daywear, in modern
and refined silhouettes, is accented by the chic
accessories of the season, including the Camelot
and Gala bags.
The photographer, inspired by heritage and
family, enlisted a large cast to capture an authentic
'fashionable' life, embracing style, whimsy and fun.
Supermodel Lily Aldridge, headlines the cast who
are set in an intimate moment, evoking the familial
warmth and vibrant spirit of the Latin heritageTestino
shares with the designer. Relaxed refinement, with
an international sensibility, marks the spirit of the
campaign and sets the tone for the season ahead.
Ive known Mario for decades and Im thrilled we
finally found the right moment to collaborate. He has
an inimitable eye and a shared sensibility, explains
Carolina Herrera.

66

A GALERIE IN MOVEMENT
THE HOUSE OF LOUIS VUITTON CONTINUES ITS EFFORTS IN
CULTIVATING ART AS PART OF ITS DNA, THOUGH THE CELEBRATION
OF CREATIVE COLLABORATIONS AND PERSONALITIES HAS ALWAYS
BEEN A FAMILIAR TERRITORY FOR THE BRAND. SUSTAINING THIS
TREND, THE BRAND RECENTLY OPENED THE DOORS TO ITS FOUNDER'S
ASNIRES -SUR-SEINE HOME, WHERE HE FIRST SETTLED IN 1859.

FASHION / 67

Curator Judith Clark took on the brief to

showcase the houses history, bridge the
connection between the house and its
ateliers, and to bring to life the essence of
the brands universe. The exhibition, an
intermediary between the past, present
and future, showcases the leading minds
of each era, be they artists, aristocrats or
adventurers. At the entrance, a work by
Jorge Otero-Pailos highlights the traces
of Asnires past and superimposes them
against those of today- with artists such
as illustrator Ruben Toledo and milliner
Stephen Jones. The exhibition is curated to

allow free roaming with no specific order,

though elements are grouped according
to themes- like globalisation, client
relations, the Monogram, nature, and
the avant-garde.
During her research through the houses
archives, Judith discovered rare gems
such as the Patki wooden cube puzzle,
a game created by Gaston-Louis Vuitton
which served as the inspiration behind her
choice of scenography for the exhibition.
Within these peculiar poplar boxes,
luggage, objects, and garments created by
the houses various artistic directors, lay

side by side with more private documents

and insider tell-tale signs, allowing visitors
to catch a glimpse of those who designed,
carried or owned these different pieces.
These little gems include a look into
Louis Vuittons original journey from
his native Jura to Paris, Gaston-Louis
Vuittons private correspondence, Loe
Fullers dance accessories, Redferns travel
cape, and Frank Gehrys Fondation Louis
Vuitton design.
The Asnires' Galerie is open
to the public on weekends.

68

WITH AN UNRIVALLED ROCKY TERRAIN, GORGEOUS

NATURAL LANDSCAPE AND SOUL-WARMING
HOSPITALITY OF ITS PEOPLE, OMAN CONTINUES TO
BE AN INSPIRATION FOR CREATIVE PURSUITS.

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

Though fashion and design initiatives from the country number

less than its Gulf neighbours, every breakthrough venture is
steeped in authenticity and refined aesthetics. Omans firstever fine jewellery brand, Deema, is now spreading its wings to
the UAE with a distinctive voice that champions the culture and
tradition of the country.
Led by a powerhouse mother and daughter duo, Deema
is a household name in Oman for bespoke luxury jewellery,
chinaware and fine artefacts. Since the brands inception in
2008, Shadya Al- Ismaily and Suad Al Riyamis work draws
deeply on art, heritage, nature and the culture of Oman and
has become a national symbol for excellent craftsmanship-the
pieces are often gifted to visiting heads of states and prolific
personalities. We do not just make ordinary jewellery or
chinaware pieces, the designs are also melting pots of heritage,
telling us stories as diverse as the ancient stories of our seas and
maritime journeys. The Islamic architecture and its designs also
have a special imprint on our work, Shadya says.
Shadya has an illustrious finance background, being the
first Omani dealer in international markets for crude oil price

hedging, and subsequently in various management roles

for the countrys Ministry of Finance and Petroleum
Development Oman Limited. When she finally decided to
pursue her design passion, she trained at the Birmingham
School of Jewellery, soon Deema the brand, came to life. Her
daughter Suad, a trained legal professional, came on board to
form the creative vision.
Four collections encapsulate the brand: Islamic heritage,
heritage, architecture, and nature, and each narrate its
individual inspirations and their own exceptional story. This
season, the collections have become available for the first time
in Dubai, and will soon reach international markets through its
online portal. Right from inception, we set a very ambitious
marketing plan for Deema, both locally and overseas, and
selecting Dubai for launching our new collection was part of the
plan. It is one of the most important destinations for shopping,
with the highest number of yearly visitors in the region, and it
is a city that embraces many nationalities and cultures, which
resonates with our essence of combining the Arabian Gulf s
influences with the trends of modern fashion, says Shadya.

FASHION / 69

70

01
THE PEACE
COLLECTION
Luminescent lemon quartz,
blue topaz and blue
aquamarine stones are blended
with 18k yellow gold and
diamonds, to create the Islamic
eight-pointed star pattern,
promoting the heritage and
richness of Islamic patterns
and architectural designs-the
inspiration behind the
collection.

02

THE HARMONY
COLLECTION
Richly-hued blue and green
gemstones conjuring up
thoughts of deep oceans,
compliment perfectly with
lavish 18k white gold and
diamonds, to create
astonishing beauty in this
luxurious collection. The
materials symbolically reflect
the nautical heritage of the
Arabian Gulf region- the
blues representing the seas
that connect the land with
the rest of the world
harmoniously

FASHION / 71

03
THE PALM COLLECTION
Amethyst gemstones and diamonds are
intricately set against earthy tones of
dark and light green sapphire and 18k
yellow gold- evoking thoughts of the
true beauty of mother nature. The Palm
is inspired by the striking date trees- the
fruit of the Middle East.

72

Q&A
What is the working relationship like between mother and daughter?
At the office, we work as partners with well-defined roles and
a structured system. Suad comes from a legal background with
strong interpersonal skills. Therefore, she was the best to take
care of the legal and contractual affairs of the company; also,
she covers the PR and marketing side of the business. Whereas
finance and designing are the areas where my strengths are,
hence, fall under my umbrella. However, we do work as a team,
exchange ideas and extend help to each other.
How do you think your brand helps in strengthening and presenting
the Omani culture to the world?
Oman is enriched with a remarkable heritage and legacy that
need to be well presented and exquisitely shared with the
world. However, what the market offers does not, in any way, do
justice to this rich heritage. As Deema is known for its exclusive
designs, highest quality, and excellent craftsmanship reflecting

FASHION / 73

the essence of luxury, we felt it was our patriotic responsibility

to give this heritage the attention it deserves. As a result, the
brands products became desired gifts, proudly given to high
profile official visitors to the Sultanate of Oman for example,
heads of countries and other important personalities. We
trust attaching luxury to the heritage may attract attention and
encourage people to learn more about the country or even visit
the Sultanate.

an you tell us about the craftsmanship and

artisanal work behind the collections?
Authenticity, innovation and achieving the
highest quality has been Deemas motto since
inception. Thus, having the right skills and
paying attention to details have been crucial during each and
every stage while transforming an idea to a final product.
The production process at Deema starts with a concept, it
is then transformed into a hand-drawn, detailed design of the
intended product. All required information such as dimensions,
sizes, type of stones including the quality, colours, cuts, and
sizes, and precious metals are given if the work was for a
jewel, other materials like type of mixture such as porcelain vs.
bone are to be used for chinaware are also provided. This is
followed by a three-dimensional rendering. From here, skillful
craftsmen take care of the execution of the design according to
the production line that the design belongs to. The jewelleries
are carefully handmade, and machinery mostly takes care of
the chinaware production, followed by handwork for adding
fine details and finishes. The products are taken through
the complete production cycle with special care, and manual
intervention is sought.
How are the collections conceptualised?
Deema has been drawing inspiration from all around. Oman is
rich in its heritage, beautiful patterns and other legacies that
cannot be ignored. Hence, it was logical that the brand be
affected by this rich legacy. The Islamic architecture and its
designs also have a special imprint on Deemas work. This line
was included to promote the beauty of Islamic art and creativity.
The nature in Oman is also considered as a source of
inspiration in the designing process. For example, the 'Palm'
collection was inspired by the tree, and was the first collection
under the 'Nature' line. Every element of the tree was carefully
employed in a piece of jewellery. The 'Palm' was launched at the
International Jewellery London in 2011.
Finally, a line dedicated to the architecture and landmarks in
Oman was introduced in 2014. There are more lines yet to be
added into our collections- 2016 will witness a line covering our
journeys around the world.

74

FOCUS / 75

THE COOL
COLLECTIVE
TRAVELLING JUST GOT SO MUCH COOLER WITH THE LATEST
COLLABORATIVE COLLECTION BETWEEN NEW YORKS COOL
KIDS, PUBLIC SCHOOL AND LUGGAGE EXPERTS, TUMI.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

Designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne are the hippest

duo to have come out of the New York fashion scene in recent
years. Their label, Public School, champions the urban voice
that is synonymous with the spirit of the city, offering a men's
and womenswear collection that draws from fashion, music
and art. The success of the label goes beyond just garments
but to the embodiment of their
individual styles and stories, including
the common link that they both
attended public school while growing
up in the city.
The collaboration came after working
with Tumi, who sponsored the CFDA/
Vogue Fashion Fund's 'Americans in
Paris' project, which the label was part
of. We used our first TUMI travel
collection for the trip. We fell in love
with the pieces and it got our creative
juices spinning. It was then in Paris that
we started talking about possibilities
with TUMI and our friend George Esquivel,Tumis creative
director, Dao-Yi says.
The six-piece collection includes a carry-on and a check-in
wheeled bag, travel satchel, backpack, day tote and dopp kit.
The designers based it on an architectural idea of mimicking
the weave of a garment and applying it to manmade material.

Working with Tumis design team, the duo set out to produce
pieces that are light and fulfils both form and function. The
wheeled pieces are crafted from TUMIs patented Tegris
material in Black Graphite with a laser-cut netting overlay,
creating a weave pattern effect on the exterior of the cases.
This pattern is infused to the hardware and luggage tags of the
day bags and accessories, as well as the
2-D netting texture effect on the bottom
of the travel satchel. Nylon and leather
are incorporated into the day bags and
dopp kit, while the tote, described by
the designers as the quintessential
bag, was designed in leather and suede
to create a season-less collection.
Each piece features the signature
Public School design aesthetic of a
monochromatic colour scheme, a
PUBLIC SCHOOL x TUMI embossed
story patch on the interior lining, and a
rubber tassel inspired by the key chains
and strings that hung from the designers backpacks in high
school. The key chain is reminiscent of when we grew up in
NY and we used to have strings on our book bags. We used to
collect them and take other people's strings. To have a lot more
strings, it was a badge of honour. This is our interpretation of
strings as an adult. Its more of a memory, says Maxwell.

We used our first

TUMI travel collection
for the trip. We fell in
love with the pieces
and it got our creative
juices spinning.

76

Dao-Yi and Maxwell

give a glimpse into the
cutting-edge label that is
redefining urbanwear.
What is a typical day in the life of PUBLIC SCHOOL?
There is no typical day, every day is different. We like to
joke around and play pranks on our team to keep them on
their toes. Theres always music (Dao-Yi dances), always
conversations going on, we like an open atmosphere, no
closed door policy. Thats part of our creative process.
We like to keep it fun, enjoyable and as light-hearted as
possible.
To you, what does it mean to be a Global Citizen (Tumis
campaign ambassadors)?
Maxwell: It means taking advantage of their opportunity to
travel, see the world, learn about as many different things
as possible. Bring them back and share with family and
friends .
Dao Yi: Open minded all the time
Who is the Public School man? Who is the Public School
woman?
Theyre one and the same. They are both connectors,
meaning, they sit at the middle of a whole bunch of
different worlds and can have conversations about fashion,
music, art and travel. Theyre an aspirational boy and

FOCUS / 77

girl always looking to learn new things and take on new

experiences.
As a team, how do you decide on collaborations?
It comes from an easy place, working with friends in
their respective fields, is it something we would want
to use, buy. It becomes a part of us. Our collaborations
really mean a lot because its another leg of our business.
Who would you like to see travelling with the PUBLIC
SCHOOL x TUMI collection?
All seasoned and all new travellers and everyone in
between. Someone who is on the go in different cities,
and really appreciates the pieces.
How do you seek inspiration for your RTW collections?
All feeling. It starts from a conversation and we go from
there.
How did you meet?
Dao-Yi: Max and I had worked together for five years
at another company and were friends outside of work
and had always done side projects together. When we
had this opportunity I had a store in Miami, we walked
trade shows together and thought, theres nothing here
that we want to wear.
Maxwell: We werent that excited with what was out
there; we couldnt find clothing that we wanted to wear
ourselves. So we decided to create what we loved and
turned into PUBLIC SCHOOL.
Whats your favourite pastime?
Maxwell: Playing basketball but now were getting older
and watching basketball.
Dao-Yi: Playing with my kids.