Karthika M Dev

MANUFACTURING WORKFLOW
Consumption planning to order fabric
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Fabric order placement

Receipt of fabric
Fabric inspection
(Check physical appearance and properties)
Marker Planning
(For bulk production)
Sampling
Spreading & Cutting
Presewing operations
(Fusing, embroidery, marking- if required in style)
Bundling
Feeding in lines
(As per production plan)
Finishing
Packing
Warehousing
Packing and dispatch

GARMENT ENGINEERING
It starts in design development stage because it directly
affects the costing of the garments .
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People involved: Designers, sample room manager,

industrial engineering department and production
management should all report from cutting to finishing.
Key areas for analysis:
Seam types Various seam types should be
analyzed and considered to simplify/reduce the work.
Stitch types- Explore various options in terms of
seam types. For example replace lock stitches by
chain stitch in case of Multineedle seams.
Machine types- Optimum use of technology to
maximize, look in to machine type, bed shapes and
automation thats possible.
Attachments Attachment help in simplifying and
reducing the work content and to increase line
balancing efficiency.
Special work aids- Special work aids can be used to
simplify/reduce the work content.
Fabric consumption- Fabric being 70% of the
garment cost is vitally important to monitor and if
the engineering is done properly we can certainly
expect to save fabric or reduce consumptions.
Cutting- how should it be done- we do not have
Tailors now, we have operators instead and they
should be working with clippers in their hands
Finishing- Finishing is the last link of the value chain
which is essential for p erformance point of view.

CAD DEPARTMENT
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Receiving tech pack:

Tech pack is received from Head office

that contains all the information regarding the style illustration, size, trims,
colors, stitch and seam class, fit, sampling details, and packing and finishing
details.

Make basic pattern:

Basic pattern is made manually by pattern

master in one base size.

Digitizing:

This base size is then digitized on the Gerber digitizer

board.

Grading:

After digitizing, its transferred to the computer on Gerber

pattern design studio. Patterns initially are made in only one size. We need to
proportionally increase or decrease the size of a pattern, while maintaining
shape, fit, balance and scale of style details. Getting correct fit and drape of
a garment but also maintain the measurements as graded specs is essential.
Using the CAD system, the pattern is resized according to a predetermined
table of sizing increments (or "grade rules"). The computerized plotter can
then print out the pattern in each size.

Incorporating shrinkage in pattern grading

-

First fabric has to be relaxed so that there is no tension or strain during

rolling or unrolling while layering or cutting. This will ensure that there
is minimum shrinkage in garments.
So unwashed garments are made with additional shrinkage tolerance
included so that they gain their original measurements after washing.
Woven fabric garments shrink about 2-3%. This shrinkage incorporated
in patterns could be lengthwise or width wise depending on type of
fabric.

Shrinkage adjusting
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Shrinkage adjustments should not distort the original shape and balance of
the patterns. When shrinkage is applied to a panel in garment all
corresponding patterns must also be applied with shrinkage adjustments.
The picture on the left shows how a garment panel looks like after it has been
scanned and graded.

Gerber plotter printing:

The patterns are then printed on the

Gerber plotter. They are then pasted to thick aortic sheets and converted
into full fledged patterns.

Send patterns to cutting department

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS
Efficiency: Marker plans indicate efficiency of the cutting process i.e.
the efficiency of fabric consumption.
Lay plan: determines the no. of lays required to cut the specified
quantity in the predetermined size ratio.
Precision in checks in stripes

FABRIC STORE
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This is the most important department of the unit, where in the quality and
quantity of fabric is inspected as soon as it is received in the store, along
with storing and maintaining stock levels and ensuring to stock up in proper
clean way.
When the fabric is in-house, it should be capable of being supplied to the
cutting department.
Inspection is done prior the cutting room issue so as to remove the defective
fabrics.

WORKFLOW OF FABRIC STORE

Receive P.O at head office

D/O

Document are sent to

Fabric received at gate (challan)

dept for checking

Documents verified

Bales received in fabric dept

Bales counting

Fabric unloaded

Bales opened

Swatches and cuts maintained

Checking 4 point system

JC & GRN Made

Fabric mounted on greasy perch

Fabric sent for inspection

Fabric stored

FCR prepared

Fabric issued to cutting room as and when

required.
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 FABRIC VISUAL INSPECTION

The 4 point system is generally used for fabric inspection. In this
system, points are assigned for every possible defect in the fabric
as follows.

Width wise point

criteria

Penalty points

Upton 3
3-6
6-9
9

1 point
2 points
3 points
4 points

Length wise point

criteria

Penalty points

Upton 5
3-6
6-9
9

1 point
2 points
3 points
4 points

Area wise point

criteria

Penalty points

1X1 cm float
Upto 1X1 cm hole/stain
Over 1X1 cm to 2X2 hole/stain
Over 2X2 cm hole/stain

1 point
2 points
3 points
4 points

Yarn variation/Beam
motion/Barre effect

Penalty points

Minor
Major

2 points
4 points

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 3 points and 4 points are pointed and are called cutable

defects.
1 and 2 point are identified by stickers and panels replaced
cutting.
The maximum points and flags allowed as follows:-

FABRIC

Max. no. of
allowed
points

Max. no. of
flags per
linear mts.

40

40

100% cotton and its

blends
100% linear and its
blends

Defect points/100m2 = Total pointsX3600/Fabric widthXFabric

length.
If defect points/100m3 < 40 then accept the fabric.
If defect points/100m3 > 40 then reject the fabric.
Major woven defects : slubs, holes, missing yarns, yarn
variation, end out, soiled yarns, wrong warns.
Major dyeing or printing defects: out of register, dye stops,
machine stops, color out, color smear, or shading.
These defects are marked wth colored tape so that they can
be easily located.

Others

Penalty points

Patta
Count or composition variation
Short end
Selvedge loose
Wrong drawing
Reed marks
Temple marks
Damaged selvedge
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Cutable defect
Cutable defect
Reject roll
Reject roll
Reject roll
Reject roll
Reject roll
Reject roll

Wrong weave

Reject roll

Other points to remember:

1. No linear meter shall be assigned more than 4 point or a flag.
2. All holes regardless of size small be assigned be assigned 4 point.
3. There should not be a major defect within 5 meters from beginning or the
end of the roll or part therein.
4. The shade of the fabric should match with the approved shade of fabric
from H.O.
5. There should not be shade variation from selvedge to selvedge, centre to
selvedge and start and end
6. A repeating defect or running should not extend for more than 3 yards
(2.73 meters), otherwise the roll will be considered second quality.
7. No piece will be acceptable as first quality if it has noticeable side-to-side,
side-to-centre or end-to-end shading within a roll or a piece.

FABRIC INSPECTION MACHINE

This is used to inspect the fabric defects and measure the total meters of the
fabric. Machinery Brands include Kaigu, Aura, Ramsons checkmate.

FABRIC TESTS
o Fabric Shrinkage is a very important factor for any physical
inspection.
Mistakes
in
appropriate
checking
might
prove
disadvantageous for the pilot run followed by production. An optimum
conduction of the width and shrinkage properties has to be made. The
fusing of lining to some parts may also be done in the cloth store. If the
shrink characteristics are consistent, then the patterns may be
designed to the correct oversize and sampling checks for consistent
shrinkage carried out. Color changes can also occur at the time of
fusing as the temperatures might have been controlled or were out of
the prescribed limits.

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E .g Size of the fabric= 100 * 100

Or
50 * 50

According to the above picture, a fabric piece of the above mentioned

specification is cut and marked accordingly. Then a wash with a soft
enzyme is given. The deviation is shrinkage if any is marked between
the points. Shrinkage of 1-1.5 cm is acceptable. If it is more than this
then the merchandiser is supposed to take the desired action.
o Color Fastness or Crocking: In order to check color fastness, 2 fabric
swatches are taken. On 1 of the swatch, a white seam is put on all the four
sides of the fabric. Both of the them are washed and the results are
compared. If it is stained or slotted then its rejected.
o C.S or Centre Selvedge test: This test is used to check the color
variation in the fabric. Full width of the fabric is taken (length can vary
according to requirement say 10). The Fabric is divided into 6 pieces and
their grain line is marked.

These pieces are then cut and re stitched in a random series. For e.g. 3, 6, 2,
5, 4, 1.
When we arrange these fabric pieces in a series, we can see the shade
variation in the same fabric. Noting of this variation is very important at the
time of cutting.
Maximum CS is seen in solid/printed fabrics as compared to stripes and
checks.

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o Others include dry clean and washability, abrasion resistance, pilling

(especially for mixed fibers), Bow and skew (using a ruler and set square for
checks and stripes), Drape and crease resistance (that includes permanent
press capability), Strength (tensile, tear and bursting (for seams),
Flammability, Surface wetting and penetration.

FABRIC DEFECTS
o Abrasion Mark: A place in the fabric where the surface has
been damaged due to friction or abnormally weakened by
any operation through which it has been passed.
o Misprint: In printed fabrics, either missed, or partially
missed, or incorrectly positioned relative to each other.
o Double Pick: Two yarns running simultaneously, mostly in
the weft yarn.
o Oil Stain: Oil mark on the fabric.
o Hole: A breakage of yarns in the fabric involving more than
two yarns.
o Bow: When the weft/filling yarns lie in an arc across the
width of the fabric.
o Skew: Distortion in the construction of the fabric i.e. in the
yarn that constitute the fabric.
o Crease: A fabric defect across the fabric width usually
caused by a sharp fold.
o Dye Stain: An area of discoloration due to uneven
absorption of colorant.
o Miss-pick: A pick/weft yarn not properly interlaced.
o Slubs: An abruptly thickened place in a yarn.
o Screen Out: The appearance of a colored separation line in
a printed design.
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o Calendar Line: Sharp pressmark on fabric due to the

calendar during the processing.
o Contamination: Colored fibers with the warp or weft fibers.

Name of suppliers
V.C.M synthetics, Symbolic fabrics, Arvind mills, Ashok weaving,
Vaibhav trading, Siyarams, J Hampstead.

TRIMS STORES
This store is responsible for storing and neatly maintaining the trims received
from the suppliers, approved by H/O.
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Trims card to be readily available for each of the PO/style being processed
that is duly approved by the nominated quality assurance person.

WORKFLOW OF TRIMS STORE

Receive W/O

Purchase dept
issues D/O to
supplier

Challan

Make trims
card

Checking

Trims
receiving

Issue for stitching according to production

plan
Different types of trims:-

Buttons
Hooks
Badges
Zippers
Collar pick bone
Tags : brand name, collection name and fit type
Labels : wash care, size and fit, brand
Fusible labels
Leather patches
Twill tape/ Cross grain tape ( cotton/polyester)
Needles
Threads : sewing and embroidery
Laces
Packing materials: hangers, collar stand, brand label, packing box,
polybag

SPREADING AND CUTTING

DEPARTMENT
Net cutting is an essential part of garment engineering that demands
precession in cutting and low shape deformation afterwards. Accurate control
of cloth width produces economies in edge margins. Precise cutting not only
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avoids spoilt work at the making up stage but is the key to modern sewing
room practice.
As soon as the work order is received, a fabric enquiry is conducted in fabric
store weather the fabric is available or not. The CAD department is
responsible for making the pattern markers available in various graded sizes
for cutting purpose and calculate the consumption per garment.

SPREADING
-

Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long,

wide tables and laying them in superimposed plies of specified length.

The number of lays depends upon the number of garments desired

and the fabric thickness.

The maximum cutting width is the usable fabric width minus selvedge
or needle marks caused by stencil marks.

Fabric utilization is the amount of fabric actually utilized in the marker

as the percentage of the total fabric area.

The cutting marker is laid on the topmost layer.

Type of lay plan used: Since open width fabric is used, full garment
lay is used that has both left and right pieces.

Type of lay: Multiple Ply is used in which a number of fabric layers are
stacked on one top of other.
Forms of spreading: Fabric is laid the same way up with grain or
print pattern running in the same direction. Fabric has to be cut at the
end of each ply.

Fabric weight

Height

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Heavy Weight

4-5"

Med Weight

3-4"

Light Weight

2.5-3"

 Ideal lay height for cutting :

Laying parameters
Pattern matching.
Relaxing the fabric to remove all the tensions.
Allignment of ply edges in correct position over each other.
Lay order plan :
Example 1
Size ratio = 1:2:2:1
39
31
48
37
43

40
40
62
48
58

42
40
62
48
58

44
20
31
24
29

Total
131
203
157
188
679

Average no of lays
39

40

42

44

31
31
11

20
20
0

20
20
0

20
0
0

Average no. of lays = 3

Average no. of pieces = Total meters of fabric
Total no. of pieces in each color
= 190.50

= 1.45 mts.

131
Lay length = 1.45 mts X 3 = 4.35
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Avg. no. of
lays
I
II
III

CUTTING
Cutting parameters:
-

Precision in cutting: To ensure the cutting of fabric - accurately

according to the line drown of the marker plan.
Clean edge: By avoiding the fraying out of yarn from the fabric edge.
Cutting edge must be smooth clean. Knife must be sharp for smooth or
clean edge.
Consistency in cutting: All the sizing safe of the cutting parts should
be same of knife should be operated of the right angle of the fabric lay.

Types of cutting equipments:

-

Scissors
Round knife
Straight knife
Band knife cutting m/c
Die cutting ( collars and cuffs )

Methods for marking directly on the cloth:

CHALK: This is the traditional method in which thick lines are drawn on
the cloth.

Preparation for sewing:

1) Position marking : Egg- pocket positions, tucks, pocket
positions etc
2) Shade marking: each component is marked with a unique
no. printed on a small ticket stuck on the component.
3) Bundle making: according to size, color, quantity
4) Bungle tickets: to identify each bundle to size, lot, style and
color wise.
5) Fusing parameters: There are different types of fusings
depending upon the end use and type of fabric.
Type
Microdot
Semi fusing
Woven fusing

Heat
150 degree
140 degree
175 degree

Pressure
2.5
1.5
3

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Time
13 sec
15 sec
18 sec

EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
Embroidery pattern is received that specifies the no. of stitches, colors, the
pattern, size and placement.
Design is loaded in floppy disc and inserted in the machine memory.

Embroidery machines:
Company

No. of heads

No. of needles

Silver sun
Barudan

9
4

9
9

No. of
machines
3
1

Machine rings sizes: 6, 9, 7, 15, 19, 25, and 230X160

Embroidery defects: loose uncut threads, skipped stitches, pattern
misalignment.

Embroidery threads: Silky and calypso threads.

Type of stitches: satin, filling, patchwork etc
Types of motifs: Institutional logos (jindal, essar, cyberoam), kids wear
motifs (cartoons), company logos (oxerberg, J hampstead), jeans back pocket
embroidery, shirt cuff and front panel embroidery are done.

A Strike-off

: is a pre production sample of embroidery which is done in order to

check the accuracy of the pattern and the associated stitches in it. This is then sent
to the H.O for feedback and approval. If any changes, theH.O will return their
feedback with necessary changes or comments. The type of stitches depends upon
the fabric. If the fabric is thin, then heavy stitches are avoided.

MAJOR PROBLEM FACED IN EMBROIDERY:

The major problem faced during embroidery is the thread breakages. The reason for
this may be that either the thread is too tight or has less strength. Since the designs
are fed into these machines through computer, if even a single thread breakdown
happens, then all the machines stop at the same time. To help avoid it to some
extent, a helper is put up against each machine that keeps a check on the
breakages and accuracy of the stitches. The bobbin case also plays an integral part.

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SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
The sampling for each season begins according to the product cycle of style.
This process is also called Product development (P.D). One should also know
the tentative size ratio in each style. This is because the costing of the
product depends highly on the fabric consumption. Kinds of samples
prepared:
1) Photosample: only sketch/illustration of the garment is present in the
photosample sheet.
2) Fit sample: one sample in base size measurement is made and send
for approval at head office.
3) Size set: one garment sample in each size is prepared and sent for
approval. No need to add the trims to the garment.
4) PP sample: This is the pre-production sample that is the exact replica
like original sample.
5) Shipment sample: A random sample is picked from the production lot
and sent for approval.

PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

Sewing Process

The basic process of sewing involves fastening of fabrics, with the help of
needle and threads. Most of such industrial sewing is done by industrial
sewing machines. The cut pieces of a garment are generally tacked, or
temporarily stitched at the initial stage if required. The complex parts of the
machine then pierces thread through the layers of the cloth and interlocks
the thread.

Industrial Sewing

Industrial sewing is quite a complex process involving many preparations

and mathematical calculations for the perfect seam quality. Good quality
sewing also depends on the sound technical knowledge that goes into
pattern designing and making. Flat sheets of fabric having holes and slits
into it can curve and fold in three-dimensional shapes in very complex ways
that require a high level of skill and experience to manipulate into a
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smooth, wrinkle-free design. Aligning the patterns printed or woven into the
fabric also complicates the design process. Once a clothing designer, with
the help of his technical knowledge, makes the initial specifications and
markers, the fabric is then cut using templates and sewn.
These undesirable variations in the cloth tension affect the product quality.
Therefore, there arises the need of strict control over the whole process.
The work of sewing is focused on the handling of fabrics lying on the
working table and guide them towards the sewing machines needle along
the seam line. The attention is equally focused on the control of appropriate
tensional force so as to maintain high quality seam.

Pre sewing functions

Before the actual task of sewing begins, there are certain other tasks that
have to be taken care of which can be termed as fabric handling functions Ply separation; Placing the fabric on working table; Guiding the fabric
towards sewing needle; and tension control of fabric during the sewing
process.
When the fabric is placed on the working table, the tasks that are
performed before the sewing process include - recognizing the fabric's
shape, edges that will be sewn, planning of the sewing process and
identification of the seam line.

Fabric Edges to be sewn

There are two basic types of stitches - one is that are for joining two parts of
cloth together and the second one is done for decorative purposes.
Sometimes, both types of stitching have to be done on some parts of cloth,
for example, a denim pocket has to be joined on three sides with the
apparel as well as it may be given some decorative stitches too. At what
points and which type of stitching has to be done- all such information is
decided by the industrial engineering department and accordingly sewn.

Planning of sewing process

Sequence of seams to be stitched is determined before the sewing starts.
Which part will be joined first, what stitches will follow one another, etc. are
decided. However, some stitches have to be necessarily done before or
after another stitch. In the example above, the decorative stitches must be
done first followed by the joining stitches.

Identification of seam lines

Sewing process is performed on seam lines situated inside the fabric edges,
some millimeters inside the fabric's outer line. For the straight lines, the
seam line is found by transferring the outer lines inside the fabrics i.e. the
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seam line is parallel to the outer edge and the distance between the two
has to be determined as it is different for different parts of the cloth. Seam
allowance is the area between the edge of the fabric and the line of
stitching.

Sewing Fabrics
The sewing process consists of mainly three functions - guiding fabric
towards needle; sewing of the fabric edge; and rotation around the needle.
The fabric is guided along the sewing line with a certain speed that is in
harmony with the speed of sewing machine
The orientation error is either manually monitored or if monitored
automatically then error is fed to the machine controller so that the
machine corrects the orientation of the fabrics. When one edge of seam line
is sewed, the fabric is rotated around the needle till the next edge of the
seam line coincides with the sewing line. The sewing process is thus
repeated until all the edges of seam line planned for sewing, are sewed.

Significant Aspects of Sewing

There are certain aspects that have to be carefully considered while the
sewing process as they are very crucial for high quality sewing.
Thread tension and consumption: Correct balancing of the stitch and the
tension given to the threads is very important for quality stitch formation.
Thread consumption, which is closely associated with correct stitch
geometry and thread tension, is usually measured by digital encoders.
Presser- foot displacement and compressing force: Presser- foot is the part
of the sewing machine that holds the fabric in place as it is being sewn and
fed through by the feeder. The feeding system is one of the most important
constituting systems of the sewing machine. If this system is not efficient
then it results into irregular seams and many other defects, especially when
running on high speed. To evaluate feeding efficiency, the force on the
presser foot is measured with the help of electric or other sensors.
Needle penetration force measurement: The interaction of needle with
fabric is very crucial. Fault-free needle penetration depends chiefly on the
properties of fabric and needle choice. Needle penetration force is one of
the variables whose measurement is important for the analysis of quality
problems or "sewability testing" and also quality monitoring. It takes
various factors into consideration, such as the needle geometry (including
the point angle and point length of the needle), the friction between the
needle and the fabric, the friction between the needle eye and the thread
along with fabrics' property, and the sewing conditions.
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ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LEVEL (AQL) Quality

measurre
The AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) is the maximum per cent defective that
for the purpose of sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory as a
process average. In inspection how much percentage of defective pieces will
be accepted, depends on acceptable quality level The AQL level varies
process to process, product to product and even buyer to buyer.
Sample size Code letter: This code is indicative a range of batch size.
(Code 'G' means your lot size range is from 151 pieces to 280 pieces.
Sample size: It means that how many pieces will be picked up for
inspection from the total offered pieces (Batch).
Ac (Accepted): The number in this column denotes that if the inspector
finds up to that much defective pieces the shipment will be accepted by
buyer.
Re (Rejected): On the other hand number in this column denotes that if the
inspector finds that much defective pieces or more than the listed number,
the shipment will be rejected (or asked to the manufacturer for 100%
inspection and re-offer for final inspection) by buyer.
Example: Suppose you have been offered a shipment of 1000 pieces for
inspection. Select the range from table, it is 501-1200. Now from table you
have to select number of sample you are going to actually inspect. According
the above table you will select 80 pieces out of 1000 pieces. Now assume
that you are inspecting at 2.5 AQL. So, after inspecting all 80 pieces if you
find 5 or less than 5 defective pieces will accept the shipment. And if you find
6 or more than 6 defective pieces in 80 samples you will reject that
shipment.

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Lot or
Batch size

Size
Code

Sampl
e Size

28
9 15
15 25
26 50
51-90
91-150
151-280
251-500
501-1200
1201-3200

A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K

2
3
5
8
13
20
32
50
80
125

320110000
1000135000

200

315

Acceptable Quality level

2.5
4.0
6.5
A Re Ac Re Ac Re
c
0
1
0
1
0
1
0
1
0
1
0
1
0
1
0
1
0
1
0
1
1
2
1
2
1
2
1
2
2
3
1
2
2
3
3
4
2
3
3
4
5
6
3
4
5
6
7
8
5
6
7
8
10 11
7
8
10 11 14 15
1
11 14 15 21 22
0
1
15 21 22 21 22
4

LIST OF POSSIBLE DEFECTS IN

PRODUCTION
Component
and
materials
Materials/fabric

Cleanliness

Possible Defects
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
1.

Fabric holes
Slubs
Shading variation
Misprints, out-of-register prints, undesired color spots
Cut, visible notch mark tears or visible surface repairs
Bow or skew exceeding 1.5 percent
Double picks
Pilling
Soil, Spots, stains or Dust
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Pressing

Seams and
Stitching

Button holes

Button/Button
Sewing

Waistband

2. Attached thread clusters

1. Burn or scorch marks
2. Glaring shine marks
3. Press marks from camps
4. Absence of pressing when specified
5. Products packaged moist after steam pressing
6. Improper pressing
7. Seams not lined up when specified for center leg crease
8. Loops twisted after pressing
9. Uneven creases after press
1. Twisted, roped, or puckered seams
2. Open or broken stitches
3. Raw edges where covered edges are specified
4. Seams not back stitched or bar tacked when specified
5. Irregular or uneven top stitching
6. Seam grin-through, seam slippage
7. Pinching or any part of product caught in seam or
stitches
8. Any exposed drill holes
9. Length of legs off by more than 3/8 inch
10. Stitch count not conforming to specifications
11. Stitch or seam type not conforming to specifications
12. Label is not correctly attached, position and layout
13. Sewn on design attached at incorrect place and
sewn not according to specs
14. Double needle stitch on crotch seam is missing
15. Use of monofilament thread, other seams than where
specified
1. Size is not within specs
2. Ragged edges
3. Uncut button hole
4. Out of alignment or improper button spacing
5. Stitch depth too narrow or wide
1. Button not securely attached
2. Butler-missing
3. Broken or damaged button
4. Out of alignment or improper spacing
5. Button not matches to specs
6. Lack of support materials on fragile fabric
7. Buttons that crack, chip, discolor, rust, bleed, melt or
otherwise cause consumer dissatisfaction when care label
is followed
1. Uneven in width
2. Excessive fullness, puckering or twisting
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Belt Loops

Front and back

Hems

Pockets

Zippers

Gripper
Fly area

Labels

3. Closure misaligned
4. Belt loops are crooked
1. Not fully secure
2. Extend above waistband
3. Missing tacks
4. Color shade not to specs
5. Thread shade not to specs
6. Raw edges showing
1. Uneven at bottom hem
2. Under facing showing
3. Pockets conspicuously uneven
4. Darts uneven in length
5. Darts poorly shaped
6. Spot shirring not even right and left sides
1. Twisted, roped, puckered, pleated, or excessively visible
from exterior
2. Uneven in width
3. Uneven length of product unless specified
1. Not uniform in size and shape
2. Misaligned horizontally or vertically
3. Crooked
4. Missing bar tack, back tack or rivet where specified
5. Bar tack or rivet not as specified
6. Sewn-in pleats or puckers
1. Any malfunction in operation
2. Tape does not match color specs
3. Wavy zipper
4. Exposed zipper that distracts from product's appearance
5. Irregular or uneven stitching on zipper
6. Crooked or uneven zipper
7. Bar tack missing or incorrectly located at bottom or base
of zipper
1. Misaligned
2. Missing or incorrect
3. Defective in operation
1. Width is not uniform
2. Bottom stopper does not securely clinched
3. Top of zipper not caught in band
4. Either side of fly extends past other side by excessive
amount.
1. Labels are not correct, text and/or layout
2. Located at incorrect location
3. Insecurely attached to the garment
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 Garment inspection procedures :

During the course of garment production, i.e right from cutting to final
dispatch, Oxemberg QAD team will conduct various inspections as
follows:
1. Inline/mid inspection : This will be carried out during the
production of garment in order to carry out this inspection effectively
following information is a must.
A) Updated W/O sheet
B) Style approved, saple approved by the merchandiser
C) Fabric, trims and accessories cards rectified by the merchandiser.
D) Approved measurement specification.
2. Random final audit or inspection : this will be carried out
when goods are in the pressing and packing till its completion.
Oxemberg QAD team will carry out random audit at AQL 4 inorder to
make this audit a truly effective tool, since it is the last check point
before dispatch, following information is essential.
A) All the line detail information mentioned there in plus.
B) Washed approved samples ( in case of washed order).
C) Packing list wherever applicable.

PRODUCTION PLANNING,
SCHEDULING AND
CONTROLLING
i.

Planning:

This involves a long term overview around the year,

based on market forecast. An agreement is necessary about whether
the production unit can cope up with the expected sales, in terms of
overall volume and in terms of specialized plant and operatives. The
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action is required of relevant departments to revise the plan, purchase

the necessary machinery, train staff, obtain new premises or lease off
unwanted ones, buying additional capacity from other manufacturers
etc.
ii.

Scheduling: The work is allocated to the production capacity

according to the agreed plan as soon as the orders are confirmed. It is
at this stage that schedules are prepared as an exercise and later
drafted in detail.

iii.

Controlling: The production process is very uncertain and rarely

goes according to the schedule, especially when the processes are
complex and dependent on the performance of individuals. Sometimes
orders are cancelled and rush orders come through. Inefficiency can be
avoided if the preliminary work is done thoroughly and the routine
terms are accurately recorded. Balancing is a part of the process.

KEY
FACTORS
SCHEDULING

IN

CONTROLING

AND

i. Time/ unit input: e.g. meters of cloth or SAM of work per minute.
ii. Work in process delays: Extension in output time is necessary to provide
buffer against fluctuations in output where the no. of processes involved are
many.
iii. Technical maintenance: Proper usage and maintenance of the machines
and other electronically equipments should be done to provide smooth
operation processes.
iv. Employee Training: The employees should be trained efficiently to increase
production efficiency and reduce wastage.
v. Non productive hours: A provision for non-productive hours should be
provided in the total available minutes as these by default are bound to
happen. For e.g. lunch time, talking, going to washroom, sitting idle etc.
These hours can be deceased by making changes in the production plan
wisely.
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vi. Line balancing: This is necessary to reduce the wastage of time as some
workers might be sitting idle because the feeding has not been done
properly and the pieces are not being delivered to them on time. The overall
operation machine layout is faulty due to improper line balancing. A machine
layout is considered to be optimum if all the machines in the line are
producing their required quantities of pieces and no worker is sitting idle.
Line balancing can be a way to increase the productivity as increasing or
decreasing unwanted operations from the line can be done.
vii. Analyzing labour requirements and deficiencies: A difference in skilled
and non-skilled labour can be assessed and accordingly work can be
assigned to them.
viii. Optimum utilization of time and raw materials: Any type of
unnecessary wastages should be avoided as far as possible. This requires a
good production plan and the co ordination of related activities.

Production flow
This refers to the series in which the garment moves from one workstation to
another, requiring completion of the desired operation. The garments move
from one work station to another in a straight line. The straight could be
work stations set up on either side of a belt conveyer/runner table. There is
little amount or work in process between the stations. In these cases, a
limited amount of storage occurs after each workstation. This can take the
form of work bins attached to the machines stand in which the work is
Straight line or conveyer chain system

Where

a work station is

is storage
movement

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indicates the direction of

A production process comprises of : Fabric consumption calculation, Thread

consumption calculation, Fabric inspection, pattern making, fabric cutting,
machine layout and SAM calculation completed, pilot run completed, testing
sampling completed, line sewing completed, finishing sewing completed,
final machine inspection completed, end of line quality check completed, off
pressing and finishing done, packing completed and goods dispatched.

Production Quality Control

Quality implies value. It is something that is build into the garment from the
stage of market research and design right up to pack and dispatch and
extends beyond a careful analysis of the customer returns and consultation
with the buyers. The quality of the garment is the reason that is bought by
the customer and comprises of a set of quality characteristics which
together make up its fitness for purpose. The key to profitable garment
manufacture is to provide the best combination at lowest cost the economic
quality level.

The costs of quality come from:

style;
fabric and trimmings;
cutting and making and packing (including repairs and rejects);
Quality control function;
Learning time of the workers;
Work content;
Present productivity;
Other overhead costs (like salary, electricity, administrative cost,
maintenance, transport etc)

Fitness for purpose comprises of:

Quality of
Quality of
Quality of
Economic

design
conformance
delivery and service
cost

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 Quality Control Department

The main function of the quality control department is not to control quality
but to provide a service which allows people to make good clothes. Their main
concern should be to do this at the minimum cost, balancing the expense of
the department against the savings in terms of reduced repairs and rejects.
One aspect of this is to define the quality level of plant and of the workplace in
it. The raising of quality levels requires a major project involving investment in
machinery and training which cannot be done quickly.
The maintenance of quality at an agreed level implies clear specifications and
these are an important task for this department. The Product information
sheet for individual styles can be kept as brief as possible. They should contain
the maximum information in the form of sketches and all dimensions should
me quoted with tolerances. Tolerances reflect the extent to which less than
perfect is acceptable. However, small tolerances exist for the garments.
The function of the quality control department is to reduce the amount of bad
work being made. This gives savings in cost of the repairs and rejects but also
speeds up delivery. Its aim is to make garments correctly at the first time.
When the consistency of quality is poor, the expected quality level is
substantially below standard. Greater consistency has an even higher priority
than raising the standard of the majority of the garments made.

Tolerances
These are the limits of acceptability expressed in figures usually or by
examples or photographs to demonstrate the limits of acceptability. For
example, the specification for a seam margin may be 1 cm and the tolerance
is -/+2 mm.

Quality characteristics
Quality of design requires higher amount of market research to establish what
is the ultimate customers preference at an acceptable price amongst a
competitive set of characteristics. These can form the basis for design.
Customers demand various combinations of the following, in various orders of
importance:
Price and value for money
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 Individuality of appearance
Fashion is appropriate to the period and group
Image enhancement (e. g reliability of an executives suit, smartness
for the air hostess
etc)
Comfort in wear, both from cut and fabric
Durability of function and appearance
Psychological qualities(waterproofing, warmth, sweat absorption etc)
Ease of Care (crease and stain resistance, shape retention, washability
etc)
Size and shape
Consistency of the product
The production incharge must stick to the specifications and should
also consider the needs of the retailers like:
Consistency (means to achieve the required quality level, the will to
confirm of Management and workforce, maintaining the specifications
with tolerances).
Delivery on time
Lower cost to support competitive price.

Quality Specifications
o Factory specifications

Cloth and trimmings, button spacing

Threads, needle types and sizes, by fabric and seam type
Stitches per inch or per 2 cms
Seam types, seam margins and tolerances
Cutting standards

o Style or garment specifications

Items of difference
Special size ranges and grading
Key features and quality points
Special tolerances
Fabric and trimmings, colors and shades ( shade cards checked
regularly for fading)

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 Department wise quality system in

factory
1)

FABRIC STORES:

o Neatly arrange the fabric rolls received and maintaining the

department cleanliness to avoid spotting and contamination of the
fabrics. Packing the fabrics in plastic sheets can be useful.
o Fabric inspection is done on 4 point system.
o Shade cards/fabric quality swatches for each style approved by the PO
are maintained.

2)

TRIMS STORES:

o Trims stores have racking system to store the trims in a proper order.
o Trims card for each PO/style being processed should be maintained.

3)

CUTTING SECTION:
o Making CSV ( centre to selvedge variation) sample for each of
the roll to analyze the shade variation.
o Maintaining shade samples and providing shade details to
presentation checkers in finishing dept for shade reference.
o Proper pattern checking report.
o Proper lay check, marking check, sorting/bundling check report.
o Cutting projection tallies updated.

4)

SEWING SECTION
o Effective maintenance for each of the machine.
o Proper updated broken needle log (should have needle issuing
record from stores and properly pasted broken needle book).
o Keyhole, bartack, overlock, label attach operation internal
approvals and display of mockups.
o Effective mockup system on all operational areas.
o All scissors and trimmers should be secured properly.
o Clearance of WIP at all levels.
o Display of trim card at required areas.
o Checking garments before wash and after wash for both quality
and measurement.
o Random in-line checking at each chain stitch operation like feed
of arm machine.
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o Each supervisor is advised to check randomly the operation in

their own working limits.
o Each operator is advised to clean their machine and area before
start of work in the morning and after lunch- waste fabric is
issued to the operator for the same.
o In-line and end-line checking report.
o Before wet processing in-line audit report is also maintained.
o Washing facility is not available in-house. Its done on jobber
basis.

5)

FINISHING SECTION
o Fabric defect identification by stickering and alteration piece
identified by knotting at place of alter by the checker.
o Dusting is done by dust pads wherever sucking machine is not
used.
o Cartoons are properly stacked.
o Presentation checker to have ready reference of shade cards of
fabric and trims cards as well.
o Daily checking report is maintained.
o Measurement audit report is maintained.
o Pre-final auditing is also gone on garments.
o Defective cartoons are replaced by good cartoons.

6)

PACKING AND DESPATCH SECTION

o Separate departments are maintained for topwear and bottom
wear.
o The fully packed garments are racked in sequential manner and
each rack is given a number for identification.
o Garments are stored brand wise, sizewise, and garment wise.
o Barcode stickering is done and checked.
o Packing in inners and outer cartoons is done according to the
size ratio or packing specifications as specified.
o Goods to be shipped are packed readily with proper covering and
sealing and kept near the main gate to be loaded in the cargo.
o Proper recording of dispatch, packing and stock stored in-house
pending for shipment are maintained along with Chelan entries
of cargo and transportation services.
o Good relations with distributors are held.

7)

ENTIRE WORKING AREA

o Properly certified fire extinguisher to be free from all obstacles.
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o Each operator to wear mask to avoid inhalation of dust inside the

factory.
o Dust collection bags for each work station/machine.
o Separate area for storing rejected garments.
o Proper covering of stored pieces.
o Properly maintained QC reports and files maintained by QA.

Department wise quality check points

Fabric Store
Trim
&
accessories
Cutting Room

Embroidery
Sewing
Department
Finishing
Department

100% fabric inspection

Trims inspection
Marker checking
Cut parts checking or audit
Bundle inspection
100% inspection of embroidery
Inline check point (at critical operation)
Roaming checking (Random checking)
End of Line checking (100%)
Audit of checked pieces
Initial finishing inspection (after wash) and alterations
Final finishing inspection (After Pressing)
Internal shipment audit

1. Fabric Store: In the fabric store fabric is being checked before issuing it to
cutting department. In general not all the fabric is checked. 100 % fabric
checking is done. Fabrics are checked in flat table, flat table with light box or
on fabric checking machine. 4 point system for fabric inspection is used to
measure the quality level of the incoming fabric.
2. Trims & Accessory: Trims quality is also very important for having a quality
garment. Trims inspection is done randomly against the given standards,
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like color matching. But for trims and accessories quantity checking is
essential.
3. Cutting Room: It is said that cutting is the heart of production. If cutting is
done well then chances of occurring defects in the following processes
comes down. In cutting room, check points are I) marker checking, ii) cut
part audit and iii) bundle checking.
4. Embroidery checking: It is also not a compulsory process. If there is
embroidery work in the garment panels then 100% inspection is done before
issuing to sewing.
5. Sewing Department: Checkpoints in the sewing departments are as
following.
- Inline inspection: In assembly line generally check pints are kept for the
critical operations. In these checkpoints, 100% checking is done for partially
stitched garments and defect free pieces are forwarded to the next process.
- Roaming inspection: In this case checkers roam around the line and
randomly check pieces at each operation.
- End of line inspection or table checking: A checker checks completely
stitched garment at the end of the line. 100% checking is done here.
- Audit of the checked pieces: 100% inspected garment are sent to finishing
from sewing department. And all defective pieces are repaired before
sending to finishing.
6.
Finishing Department: Check points in finishing department
consists
- Initial finishing inspection: checking done prior to pressing of the garment
at finishing room is known as initial finishing.
- Final finishing Inspection: After pressing garments are again checked and
passed for tagging and packing.
- Internal final audit: After garments are packed up to certain quantity,
quality control team, does audit of packed garments. This process is carried
out to ensure that before handing over shipment.
If the completed work is being checked at each process and defective pieces
are corrected before handing to the next process than at the end of
production there is very little chance to have a defective at final inspection
stage.

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FINISHING DEPARTMENT
The finishing process includes all those activities concerned with making the
appearance of the fabric more presentable. It includes activities like stain
removal, thread trimmings, washing, ironing, tagging, and hanger alignment.

Bartack: Putting barracks on loops, pockets etc.

Washing: Sometimes, the buyers demand that garments must be given a
wash after stitching.

Button, button hole and rivet attach

Extra Thread trimming: The extra threads which have been left uncut are
trimmed. This can be done manually with thread cutters.
Stain removal: Different types of stains might be formed at the time of
garment handling operations. Different kinds of stains include ball point
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stains, oil stains, dirt stains etc. Different kinds of chemicals are used for
their removal. For example, Ball point stain is removed with ink remover,
stains on white fabrics are removed with a chemical called Ariel lines, Ltk45 is used for removing yellow and black stains from colored fabrics, N-9 is
used to remove stains on light colored fabrics, Emrol-ol and petrol is used
to remove other hard stains.
Thread sucking : this is done to remove the threads stuck to the fabric
surface that are too minute to remove. For this, a thread sucking machine is
used to remove threads with air blow and vaccum sucking. Also, adhesive
tapes are wrapped on rolls and then moved over the garments, especially in
trouser finishing this step is essential.

End of line inspection:Garments are compared against measurements and

tollerences, defects, loose and misaligned threads and buttons, open seams
etc.

Alteration: Any garment found faulty of defects will be sent for alteration.
Ironing: After all these steps, the garments are ironed in a proper manner,
folding on the right creases. Steam ironing is preferred. The garment
measurements are continuously monitored at the time of ironing also. The
garments can be shrunk or stretched to some extent in case the
measurements go beyond the tolerance levels. Ironing depends upon the
type of fabric viz. knitted or woven. Knitted garments require light pressing
where as wovens require deliberate wrinkle removal and crease setting. A
dolly or body form press is also used to trouser pressing.

WORKFLOW OF FINISHING

Bartack and
buttonholing

Washing

Button and rivet

attatch

Thread sucking

Stain removal

Thread trimming

End of line
inspection

Alteration

Ironing

Warehousing

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Packing

Tagging and
stickering

 TYPES OF DEFECTS
I.

PATTERN DEFECTS IN GARMENTS: (CAD)

Some parts of pattern are missing, probably because the marker did
not include the correct number of parts.
Mixed parts, probably because the marker is not correctly labeled,
resulting in a marriage of wrong sized parts. Patterns not facing in
correct direction on napped fabrics.
Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain.
Poor line definition (e.g. too thick chalk; indistinctly printed line,
perforated lay not powdered) leading to inaccurate cutting.
Skimpy marking, caused by either the marker did not use the outside
edge of the pattern; or the pattern was moved or swung after partial
marking to squeeze the pattern into a smaller space for economizing
the fabric.
The pattern may have worn out edges.
Generous marking, especially in combination with skimpy marking
results in components being sewn together with puckering and
pleating.
When the marker is too wide, the garment parts at the edges of the lay
get cut with bits missing.
Not enough knife clearance freedom.
Wrong check matching, i.e. lines across the seam are not matching.
Wrong checks boxing i.e. checks are not showing a full/partial box
across the seam.
Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or misplaced.

II.

SPREADING DEFECTS IN GARMENTS

Not enough plies to cover quantity of garments required.

Plies misaligned, resulting in garment parts getting cut with bits
missing in some plies at the edge of the spread.
Narrow fabric width, causes garment parts at the edge of the lay
getting cut with bits missing.

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 Incorrect tension of plies, i.e. fabric spread too tight or too loose. This
will result in parts not fitting in sewing, and finished garments not
meeting size tolerances.
Not all plies facing in correct direction (whether 'one way' as with nap,
or 'one way either way' as with some check designs). This happens
when fabric is not spread face down, face up, or face to face as
required.
Unacceptable damages in the garment parts. Parts not fully included
owing to splicing errors.
Spread distorted by the attraction or repulsion of plies caused by
excessive static electricity e.g. in satin fabric.
Plies are not spread accurately one above another for cutting. This
results in mismatching checks.

III. CUTTING DEFECTS IN GARMENTS

Failure to follow the marker lines resulting in distorted garment parts.
Top and bottom plies can be a different size if the straight knife is
allowed to lean, or if a round knife is used on too high a spread.
Notches, which are misplaced, too deep, too shallow, angled, omitted,
or wrong type to suit fabric.
Frayed edges, scorched or fused edges, caused by a faulty knife, not
sharp enough, or rotating at too high a speed knife cut.
Garment part damaged by careless use of knife, perhaps overrunning
cutting previous piece.
Marker incorrectly positioned on top of spread.
Garment parts have bits missing at edge of lay. If too tight or too loose
then garment parts are distorted.
Spread distortion due to electricity, particularly in checks.

IV. COLOR DEFECTS IN GARMENTS

Color defects that could occur are difference of the color of final produced
garment to the sample shown, accessories used are of wrong color
combination and mismatching of dye amongst the pieces.

V.

SEWING DEFECTS IN GARMENTS

Broken buttons
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Broken snaps
Broken stitching
Creasing of garments
Defective snaps
Different shades within the same garment
Dropped stitches
Exposed notches
Exposed raw edges
Fabric defects
Holes
Inoperative zipper
Loose / hanging sewing threads and buttons
Misaligned buttons and holes
Missing buttons
Missing stitches
Needle cuts / chews
Open seams
Pulled / loose yarn ( thread tension )
Stain
Unfinished buttonhole
Wrong stitching technique

Zipper too short

Usage of different color threads on the garment, creasing of the

garment
Sizing defects - Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of
a garment part from other, for example- sleeves of XL size but body of
L size. Such defects do not occur has to be seen too.

VI. WASHING DEFECT IN GARMENTS

A rotation, usually lateral, between different panels of a garment resulting
from the release of latent stresses during laundering of the woven or knitted
fabric forming the garment. Twist may also be referred to as Torque or
Spiraled.

WAYS OF DEFECT ALTERATION OBSERVED

Most of the fabric defects that are not acceptable in garments are removed
during cutting and stitching processes. Still damaged part is found in the
sewn garment due to heavy washing, dyeing or other reasons.
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Instead of rejecting the defective garment, only damaged part can be

changed and converted it into a quality garment. It should not increase the
fabric consumption or produce further defective garment in the part
changing process
1. End bit usage for part changing:
In the cutting room, during layering cutters store end bits that are not
layered in the lay for a cutting. These end bits are one type of cutting
waste. So for the part change we can use those end bits without
increasing fabric consumption.
We need to take care about shade matching or lot matching of the
fabrics with the damaged garments.
If the garments were heavily washed, then it will be very difficult to
match the garment fabric shade. After changing the parts garment
must be washed again to give matching finished look and similar hand
feel.
2.

Fresh fabric usage for Part changing:

If there are not enough end bits to replace the damaged parts from
the garment, then available fresh fabric is used. Only use fresh fabric if
there is no problem with shade matching otherwise it will increase the
fabric consumption. But for solid colors and yarn dyed fabric there is no
issue related to shade matching.

3.

Using good components from other damaged garments:

This option is chosen when garments are dyed and there are no fresh
fabric or end bits or fresh fabric for that order.
Also for the high value garment with fine hand embroidery work and
where you have less time to complete the shipment, this option is
preferred.
Here we need to keep care of shade matching.

SHIRT AND TROUSER WASHING

1. Drum washing m/c (horizontal loading)
Capacity: 98kg (big) 450 and 48kg (small). This machine is used for
washing cotton shirts and trousers.
This machine can also be used for dyeing.
Shirt 200 germs
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Trouser 700 germs

Denim 800 germs
Garment
Shirt
Trousers

98kg m/c
350 pHs
200 pHs

48kg m/c
200 pHs
80pcs

2. Sample washing m/c (horizontal loading)

Capacity: 8 kegs
This is used for washing the samples that are less in quantity.
3. Hydro extractor (squeezing m/c)
4. Dryer (S.R.E engineering)
Shirts 200
Trouser 60 pcs
5. Steam boiler
Gas, coal, thermal oil
WASHES
a. Softener wash ( enzyme wash )
Its of 3 types ionic, non-ionic, and cationic.
b. Enzyme wash
OT, desizer, lubricant, water washing at 52degrees, Acetic acid (pH),
Enzyme (to stabilize), Water wash, Silicon, softener.
Power wash enzyme: Powdered enzyme is used with ball beating
Biofinish
c. Detergent wash
Ariel and tide
d. Leather wash
e. Powder wash pumice in powder form
f. Pumice stone wash
PRECAUTIONS
FABRIC
Pigment padded fabric

X
No heavy wash is given
because it can cause
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Enzyme wash,
leather wash can

White garment
Worsted fabric

color bleeding.
No heavy wash
No heavy wash

Trouser
Shirt fabric
Yarn dyed

be given.
Enzyme wash.
Beach ball wash,
chlorine bleach
( caco2 + thermal
balls)
Heavy wash

DENIM WASHES

o MACHINERY USED Front vertical loader m/c: (98kg, 150kg, 300

kg).

1. Raw/Rinse wash: removal of sizing agent and then garment is rinsed,

softener is added and then dried in hydro. No fading process is done.
2. Raw resin: This is done to fix the color onto the fabric and to make it
wrinkle resistant. Catalyst, softener and resin are added then ironing is
done.
3. Denimix: After desizing, enzymes (bio-degradable agent) are added
(acidic/neutral) to give fading of color (lighter tone). For fancy denims,
scraping and tucking is used along with denimix.
Neutral (pH 6.5-7)
Temp 45-55 degrees

Neutral (pH 4.5-5.5)

Temp 45-55 degrees
+ Acetic acid is added otherwise enzyme
wont work
4. Stone washing (bleaching): In this, chlorine bleach is used yellowness
from fabric and to five faded effect. Time required for bleach depends on
the original sample/shade card. Neutral ALCL3 or (H2o2 i.e. hydrogen
peroxide, soda ash, soap, tinopol). After stone washing, we can do
brightening (with tinopol) to remove chlorine.
5. Ice wash: Its similar to stone washing, but more qty of bleach is
used.
6. Dyeing: The denim is dyed in different color. After desizing, its
bleached and then dyed. Denimix and softening processes follow
if required.
7. Pumice stone denimix: After desizing, denimix wash is given
and after that its abraded with pumice stone. For denimix 40SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )

120 grms/pc pumice stone has to be added and for stone wash,
denimix+bleaching is used.
8. Vintage: After denimix, we tint the denim with direct dye or
reactive dye.

VALUE ADDED WASHES:1. Tucking : The piece is tucked with the help of tucking
machine at the place where we want to have the wash
effect.
2. Scraping: Sandpaper is used to scrap the fabric to
reveal the faded effect.
3. Spraying: Dyes are sprayed over the garment in
different angles and strokes to reveal the sprayed
effect.
4. Whiskering:
5. Crinkling
6. Crackle: The piece is tied at the place where we want
to avoid color penetration in pleats and then dyed.
7. Grinding: Upper layer of the fabric is peeled/scrapped
off with a grinding machine.
8. Sandblasting: Pressurized compressed air with sand is
blown on the garment.
9. Ball blast: Its conducted into wooden m/c.
bleach+caco3 power is used.
10.
G2: Its an advanced bleaching process done with
ozone(O3). Bleaching pressure is 240. If its done with
chlorine bleach, it will become yellow. So, ozone is
used.
11.
Pigment spray: Pigment dyes are sprayed over
the denim.

CASE STUDY : Common Denim Seam

Quality Defects
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1.

Broken Stitches - Needle Cutting

Where the thread is being broken where one seam crosses another seam (ex:
bar tacks on top of waistband stitching, seat seam on top of riser seam)
resulting in stitch failure.

Minimizing broken stitches due to Needle

Cutting
-

Use a higher performance core spun thread

Use a larger diameter thread on operations where the thread is
being cut.

Make sure the proper stitch balance is being used. On a chain

stitch

seam

on

denim,

we

should

maintain

60%/40%

relationship of Needle thread to looper thread in the Seam.

-

Use needles with the correct needle point.

Change the needles at regular intervals on operations where
the Needle Cuts are occurring frequently.
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2.

Broken Stitches- washing procedures

Where thread on the stitch line is broken during stone-washing, sand

blasting, hand sanding, etc. Broken stitches must be repaired by re stitching
over the top of the stitch-line.

Minimizing broken Stitches due to abrasion

-

Use a higher performance core spun thread.

Use a larger diameter thread on operations where excessive abrasion
is occurring

3.

Make sure stitches are balance properly,

Monitor the Finishing Cycle for compliance to specs.

Broken Stitches by Chemical Degradation

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Where thread is being compromised by the chemicals used during laundering

resulting in loss or change of color and seam failure.

Minimizing broken stitches due to Chemical

Degradation:
-

Use a higher performance core spun thread that has greater

resistance to chemical degradation.

- Using larger thread sizes when the Denim Garments will be subject to
Harsh Chemical washes.
-

Making sure that the water temperatures and PH Levels are correct
and that the proper amounts and sequence of chemical dispersion
are within guidelines.

- Make sure the garments are being rinsed properly to neutralize the
chemicals in the fabric.
-

Monitor the drying process, cycle times, and temperatures to make

sure they are correct so that the best possible garment quality can
be achieved.

4. Unraveling Seams:
Generally occurs on 401 chain stitch seams where either the stitch has been
broken or a skipped stitch has occurred. This will cause seam failure unless
the seam is Re stitched.
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4.

Minimizing unraveled Stitches:

-

Use a high performance Core-spun thread that will minimize

broken stitches and skipped stitches.

Insure proper machine maintenance and sewing machine

adjustments.

Observe

sewing

operators

for

correct

material

handling

techniques.

5. Restitched Seams:
Where there is a "splice" on the stitch line. If this occurs on Topstitching, then
the seam does not appear to be 1st quality merchandise. Caused by:
1. Thread breaks or thread run-out during sewing; or
2. Cut or broken stitches during a subsequent treatment of the finished
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product (I.e., stone washing).

Minimizing Restitched Seams

-

Use a better quality sewing thread. This may include going to a higher
performance thread designed to minimize sewing interruptions.

Insure

proper

machine

maintenance

and

sewing

machine

adjustments;
-

Make sure sewing machines are properly maintained and adjusted for
the fabric and sewing operation

6.

Observe sewing operators for correct material handling techniques.

Skipped Stitches:

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Where

the stitch forming device misses

the

needle loop or the needle misses

the

looper loop. Skips are usually

found where one seam crosses another seam and most of the time occurs
right before or right after the heavy thickness.

Minimizing Skipped Stitches:

-

7.

Use core spun thread.

Use minimum thread tension to get a balanced stitch.

Use the ideal foot, feed and plate that help to minimize flagging.

Training sewing operators NOT to stop on the thickness.

Make sure the machine is feeding properly without stalling.

Make sure the machine is not back feeding.

Wavy Seams on Stretch Denim:

Where the seam does not lay flay and is wavy due to the fabric stretching as
it was sewn or during subsequent laundering and handling operations.

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Solutions
Garments
-

for

wavy

seams

on

stretch

Use minimum presser foot pressure

0- Instruct sewing operators to use proper handling techniques and not
stretch the fabric as they are making the seam.

- Where, available, use differential feed to compensate for the stretch of

the fabric.

8.

Ropy Hem:

- Where hem is not laying flat and

skewed in appearance.

Solutions for Ropy Hems

- Usually caused by poor operator handling.

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is

Instruct the sewing operator to make sure

they get the hem started correctly in the folder

before they start sewing. Also, make sure they
don't hold back excessively as the seam is
being sewn.

Use minimum roller or presser foot pressure

9.

Twisted Legs:

Is where the side seam twists around to the front of the pant and distorts the
appearance of the jeans.

Solutions for Twisted Legs:

- Usually caused by poor operator handling. Instruct the sewing operator to
match the front and back properly so they come out the same length.
Sometimes notches are used to insure proper alignment. They should NOT
trim off the front or back with scissors to make them come out the same
length
- Make sure the cut parts are of equal length coming to the assembly
operation.
-

Check fabric quality and cutting for proper skew

-

Make sure the sewing machine is adjusted properly for uniform

feeding of the top and bottom plies.

10.

Disappearing Stitches in Stretch Denim:

Is where the thread looks much smaller on seams sewn in the warp direction
than in the weft direction of the fabric.

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Solutions
to
minimizing
disappearing
stitches on stretch Denim:
-

Use a heavier thread size on topstitching.

Go to a longer stitch length (from 8 to 6 spi).
Make sure the thread tensions are as loose as possible so the
thread sits on top of the fabric rather than burying in the fabric on
seams sewn in the warp.

11. Thread discoloration after Laundry

It is the thread picks up the indigo dyes from the fabric giving the thread a
'dirty' appearance. A common discoloration would be the pick-up of a
greenish or turquoise tint.

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Solutions to Thread Discoloration

-

Use thread with proper color fastness characteristics.

Correct PH level (too low) and Water Temperature (too low) during
laundry.

Use the proper chemicals & laundry cycles.

Use Denimcol PCC in wash or similar additive

Do not overload washers with too many garments at one time.

12. Poor
Colorfastness
after
Laundry

is

where the thread does not

wash down consistently in the
garment

or

changes

to

different color altogether.

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Solutions
Laundry:
-

to

poor

Colorfastness

after

Use thread with proper color fastness characteristics.

Use threads from the same thread supplier and do not mix
threads in a garment.

Always do preproduction testing on denim garments using new

colors to assure that they will meet your requirements.

Make sure sewing operators select thread by type and color

number and do not just pick a thread off the shelf because it looks
close in color.

SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )

PACKING AND FINISHING

ORDER PROCESSING, PACKAING AND
DESPATCH
Order Processing
Order processing is the period between the time of placement of the order by
the buyer to the time of arrival of the goods at his destination. This cycle is
made up of the transmission of the order, document processing in the
department and shipment of goods. The documentation is a routine activity.
The procedure of receiving and handling the orders, granting credit,
invoicing, giving dispatching orders, collecting the bills and post dispatch
adjustments. Correct order processing can be very useful from the point of
view of the customers as it affects order time i.e. time interval between two
orders of a customer and secondly, the uniformity of delivery i.e. regular and
dependable deliveries.

Customer

Merchandising Department
Order Processing

Credit Check
Inventory Check
Order for Dispatch
Replenishment of stock

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Intimation to customers
Dispatch of goods
Collection of payments

Packaging
Packing is traditionally meant to protect goods. However, it is also a promotional tool
and a major image builder contributing to product success. Packing is a process that
speaks of companys ability to contain economically man made or natural products
for shipment, storage, sale or final use. Packaging on the other hand deals with
activities of planning and designing of different means of packaging the product.
However, it should be noted that packing is concerned with product protection while
packaging is concerned product promotion.
Objectives of packing
Protection of the product: To keep the garments clean, fresh and unspoilt by
using moisture proof and damage resistant materials. Its done basically to
avoid any type of deterioration or contamination of the garment. The main
aim is to maintain the quality of the garments intact unaffected by dust and
dirt.
Product identification: Packing is a convenient way to identify the products of
different buyers as each buyer would have a different type of packing
requirement. The size, color combinations, graphics used in each package are
unique and can be easily remembered.
Product convenience: Packing aims at providing maximum convenience to
the purchasers, producers and distributors alike. A nicely designed product
package facilitates product shipping, storage, stocking, handling and display
on part of producers and distributors. Neat packing can bring reduction in
inventory costs, packing cost, space and time costs.
Product package promotion: A good packaging performs effective advertising
function. The general appearance and selling features created by the
packaging techniques decide the product success. As a promotional tool, it
does self advertising, displaying, publishing and acts as an advertising
medium.

Essentials of Good Packing

It should protect the contents: A good packaging is a means of preservation
of products from possible damage or loss in value. The quality of the
garments is maintained intact. The packing is designed to protect it against
natural and artificial factors of damage like dirt, dust, theft, shrinkage,
contamination etc.
It Should be attractive: Apart from protection, seeking the attention of the
consumers is also essential. Package design, weight, material, color
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combinations, graphics, texture, illustrations etc form the essentials of a good

package. Some customers buy products because they are impressed by the
packing. Therefore, package attraction generates impulsive buying.
It Should provide convenience: Good packaging increases product sanitation,
ease in handling, transportation, storing and using packages. The package so
designed should grant highest degree of convenience to manufacturers,
distributors and consumers alike. Consumers are seeking packages that are
easy to handle, open and reusable.
It Should be economical: Economy is something that reduces not only
packing and its expenses, but also brings down other allied expenses such as
transport, warehousing, tax-levies and handling. Cost reduction are possible
through multi-packaging allows more cost re3duction than when one pack is
sold on its own.
It should be pollution free: It is a well known fact all over the world that
packing has environmental problem, particularly the discarded packing.
Hence it is advisable to use recycled or bio-degradable packaging materials
that minimize pollution.
It should be informative: Provision of information about product illustration,
features/specifications, instruction to handle, prices, the amount of product in
the package, the content brands name, and other relevant information for
the consumer as well as distributor. Detailed labeling is a must.
It should assure adjustability: The packaging should have the ability to adjust
or flexibility to be put to different uses. Paper packaging is known for
cheapness and lightness.
It should be labeled: Labeling is the act of attaching or tagging labels. A label
may be a piece of paper , printed statement which is either a part of a
package or attached to it, indicating value of contents, price, product name,
and place and name of producer. Thus, a label is an informative tag, wrapper
or seal attached to a product or products package.

Considerations for new packing development

In designing a new product package or redesigning the existing one, the
manufacturers take into account:
Nature of product: The type of container to be used depends upon the form
and ingredients of the product. Transparent containers are most suited for
attractive colors and appearance, vacuum sealed ingredients for volatile
ingredients and glass containers to minimize chemical reactions. Plastic and
metal packages can also be used.
Costs: The cost of packing must be absorbed by the production economies,
increased sales volumes or higher price. The packing material, label, filling
and closure costs, handling, distribution and breakage cost of package are
important.
Family resemblance: If the product is one of a number of related items, its
advisable to design the package that confirms to the containers of other
products in the same line to assist consumer and dealer identification
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 Advertising value: Unique shape, attractive design gives a package greater

sales and advertising value.
Legal requirements: the packages must confirm to the laws prohibiting the
deception of consumers by the use of false bottoms, slack fill and other
means of giving an impression that a package contains a larger quantity than
the case. There are legal requirements prescribing the copy appearing on the
labels of the cartoons which should be confirmed to.
Test the design in the market: test-marketing must be conducted in the
market to get indirect replies through dealer feedback.
Environmental checking: the packing development decision may be
influenced by legal, ecological and social forces. Thus issues like consumer
packing safety, disposable packing, the quantity of packaging, littering, wise
labeling and so on.
Packing strategies
After the garments arrive from the finishing and quality check department, they are
packed in hangers or simple fold pack in polybags, according to buyer requirements.
Here, multiple packaging strategies are followed. It is a kind of strategy in which a no.
of closely related but heterogeneous products used by one consumer are placed in a
single package. Such a package conveys that idea of an ideal matching set that one
should possess. For example as in case of assorted collection kids wear packages are
packed along together. It facilitates acceptance of a new product idea by a consumer
who normally may not want to venture into buying it. However there is danger of the
whole package being rejected through a consumer who is interested in only one or two
items in the total set. Since the consumer will have to buy the whole set he will reject
the 2 items he was favoring a will not buy the set.

Inventory
Inventory management is a task of planning and controlling of finished goods after they
have been bought from the production department and before their delivery to the
users. It has 2 parts: Inventory and Warehousing.
Warehousing: This performs two functions namely movement and storage of
goods. Movement refers to the actual receipt of products from the manufacturing
centre their transfer in the warehouse and stocking at designated place,
assorting to consumer orders and transferring them to common carriers on their
way to consumers. The storage function is mainly concerned with holding and
caring the goods from the time they are placed in, till they are places out in
common carriers. It is basically a safety and preservative function.
Inventory controlling: Inventory implies the stock of goods held over a period of
time for meeting the consumer needs. For the production department, inventory
means stock of raw material, machine and parts, stock of goods partly
manufactured and finished goods. For the distributors or dispatchers, it is the
finished stock meant of the final consumption.
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 Material Handling
This refers to the handling of the goods ready for dispatch. They can be
classified into:
Manual: This involves usage of human labour. This is restricted to areas with
unorganized plant layout and costs of movements.
Mechanical: This involves the use of machines driven by power like for e. g
cranes, trucks, stackers, side loaders, mobile cranes etc. these have more fixed
costs if the capacity utilization is less.
Automatic: These are fully automatic operated by automatic machines and
computers. These require heavy capital investments.

Transportation and Dispatch

When the garments are readily packed and arranged in containers/cartoons, they
are arranged buyer wise and shipment date wise. Right dispatch time means right
delivery time. Hence there should be no delay in dispatching the goods from the
manufacturers premises because delivery time depends on the mode of transit viz.
air, sea, and rail. The main aim should be delivering the right product to the right
place at the right time at economical costs. Firms can attract lots of buyers by
offering better service or lower prices through physical distribution improvements.
Similarly the profit margin for the manufacturers will be increased by making this
physical distribution more effective and efficient. Effectiveness and efficiency will
bring in economy and this will thus affect the profit margins. This is because the
price of the product does not just include the cost of production but also the cost of
delivery. The cost of transportation is determined by the distance covered and the
volume of goods. Also, the performance of the transportation mode i.e. the
speed/pace of movement in kms /hr. Calculation of speed must take into account
the total time from point of start to point of destination.

Packing mechanism in the factory:Inner boxes are used to pack the pieces. 1 inner can have 50-60 pieces.
These inners are again packed in outer boxes. 1 box can have 3-5 inners.
For example :
Brand
Oxemberg
Beach pebble
MSD

Qty
60 ics
48 pcs
Inner packs pakaging
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J Hampstead

3 boxes
33pcs
48pcs
60pcs
The packing quantity per carton depends upon buyer specifications.
o Packing stratergies:1. MSD ( casual )
1 small inner 12 shirts.
So 1 big inner=5 inners = 60 shirts
Jeans pack size ratio wise
2. TROUSER ( oxemberg )
1 inner = 16-17 pieces
3.
o Storage: Racking is done size wise, style wise, garment wise, sleeve
length wise(half sleeves/full sleeves). Each rack is given a rack no.
Restickering according to buyer mentioned in memo.
o Storage capacity: Shirt: 80000-2,00,000 & Trousers and jeans 30,000
pcs
o Distributor (MSD & Oxemberg)
- S.V enterprises (Hyderabad)
- A.M patel (Oxemberg)
- Maharashtra ( J.K apparels)
- Chandigarh (Ahuja traders)
- Delhi (Vishesh college)
o Cargo services T &T, XPS, TCI, VRL
o Transport providers Lalji mulji transport, Batco india

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SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )