The American Garment Cutter 3rd Edition A

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56
THE
American Garment Cutter

THIRD EDITION
Â
complete,
on
treatise
practical
up-to-date
Cutting
the
of
MEN'S GARMENTS
according
method
the
to
most approved
AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY

PUBLISHERS
NEW YORK
LONDON
PARIS
BERLIN
VIENNA
International Copyright, 1914
Entered According to Act of Congress in the Year 1914

BY
American Fashion Company

In the Office of the Librarian at Washington, D. C.
All Rights Reserved

Reproduction Interdite
Vervielfaeltigung Unters Act
/l/^ I^/^Y^
JCT 14 f9l4
^CI,A380855
INTRODUCTION
Draper in his "Intellectual Advancement of Civilization" says: "Individual
advancement is the model for social progress. Nowhere is the truth of this to
be found so fully realized as in these United States, where individual advancement is marked in every avenue of life. "Excelsior" is inscribed on the banner
of every man and woman, borne onward and forward through the rush and
crush, through the whirlpools and fast flowing streams of life's kaleidoscopic
changes, ever reaching higher and higher and becoming more and more and
still more perfect in their particular sphere and in their own individual calling".
For twenty years the author has devoted his time and study to the compilabook for self-instruction in the art of cutting and designing men's
garments, so arranged that any one of average intelligence can master it with
proper care and necessary diligence.
tion of a
The student will find the system extremely simple and entirely free from
complication; no scale or chart of any kind is used, simply the ordinary divisioned square and inch tape measure; everything which might have a tendency to
befog and mislead the student has been eliminated, so that every line drawn and
applied may be easily grasped and perfectly understood. To produce a method
of cutting where the points are based on the actual build of a man, and to be
reproduced as nearly perfect as is possible to human ingenuity is what has been
sought in this work. The author has so far succeeded that of the many who
have studied, either by direct instruction or by the aid of this publication, not
one has failed to enjoy the fullest confidence of their clientage. Particularly is
this system of value where cutting has to be done without "try-on," and at no
time can a garment be spoiled. The perfect points being the fundamental object
of this
method.
'1
PREFACE
In placing" this work before the Cutting" Fraternity, we feel confident that
we have placed before them somelhing that is useful and practical. Unlike any
other work of its kind, its construction is simple and easy to understand. It has
been our aim to eliminate all discussion of an anatomical nature, for we do not
pretend to teach anatomy, nor do we try to convince the student of something
we are not convinced of ourselves. We do claim that our work is absolutely
and correct, its measures are simple, and applied on the pattern exactly
as taken, they will cover any and all points that have heretofore confused the
cutter. There will be no need for the cutter to mark on the book "R. B." for
round back or "O. E." for over erect or any other sign by which to show the
shape of his customer, for his measure.nents will show all such points.
feel certain that any cutter following the instruction of the AMERICAN GARMENT Cutter will be satisfied with the results obtained.
practical,
We
The Author
S. REGAL.
PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION

'l"he pul)licali(jn ni the first and second editions of this work marked an era in
history of cutting, as it was the introduction of a Self-Instructor that enabled the student to intelligently understand a system that was Simple, Concise
tlie
and Practical.
The many systems that were heretofore published, advanced theories and
expounded systems that proved to be so intricate and ambiguous they left the
student floundering in uncertainty, and necessitated either a course of personal
instruction, or a return to his former system that had proved unsatisfactory.
The great success that attended the sale of the first and second
work is evidenced by that fact that many orders have been held
of this
ance pending the publication of this edition, the

been entirely sold out many months ago.
first
editions
in
abey-
and second issues having
That the Author has succeeded in producing a work fulfilling all the requirements of a Self-Instructor is attested to by the result that not a single
request for an explanation of any point has been received since the first and
second issues were presented to the public.
Whilst the fundamental principles of the system taught in the previous
editions have been retained, yet some changes have been made that practical
experience has found to be beneficial, and many diagrams of garments added
that make this the most complete work on Garment Cutting ever published.
Whether it be a Practical Cutter or Tailor, or one totally unacquainted

with the art of Cutting, the Author is convinced that any person of average
intelligence can become a master of the art through the medium of this publication.
as taught does not require changing when the vagaries of
decree a different style, but can be used for all time, and embrace
The system
Fashion
within
its
scope every outer garment worn by man.
The claims made for this work are fully borne out by the success attained
who studied the first and second editions, and we know that it will
those
by
the same favor as its predecessor, and be of invaluable use to those
with
meet-
who purchase
it.
The Author,
S. REGAL.
AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER
THE MEASURING OF THE HUMAN BODY.

The
fact that in order to perfectly
fit
the
human body
perfect
cannot be too often urged upon the cutter, and

the part of the cutter to get his customer to forget that he
not only that,
known among
cutters
is,
that ninety-nine out of one
perhaps, while being measured. It is

thrown back and chest expanded, and
common
if
but
to ask
man
him
it
requires
being measured.
hundred men
to see a
you were
is
measurements are required,
much
tact
on
fact well
will pose, unconsciously
standing erect, with shoulders

to stand natural, he would be
indignant and answer, "why of course this is my natural position," but if after the garment is
completed, he stoops forward, his chest sunken in, his back rounded, it will then be necessary
for the cutter to either make a big alteration era new garment; so it will readily be seen that
the cutter who can make his customer forget that he is being measured, has the best chance
of success.
opinion was asked as to whether actual measurements or proportions were the

safest method to cut by, my answer would be actual measurements by all means, providing
you have the ability to take an accurate measurement, otherwise use proportions. Proportions, therefore, would be my second choice, and judging by the various measuring devices
If
my
that are being studied and invented, it would seem as if a great number of cutters are realizing that the proper measurements of the body is one of the greatest, if not the greatest, factor
in producing that which the cutter is aiming to produce. But so far as I can see, no instrument has yet been devised that can really give a good measurement, /. c, an instrument which
the young student, as well as the practical cutter, can handle with an equal degree of confi-
dence and certainty.
From my
only correct line needed for attitude is the horizontal

such a line could be definitely located, the difficulty in measurements would be done away with. I therefore advise using the floor level for the breast
line, as is shown in this book, and even if the breast line is taken one-quarter or one-half inch
lower than the actual depth the armscye calls for, or if taken that much higher than it should
Consebe, then it will still leave the front and back lengths from the floor level the same.
experience,
line, this
being the breast
quently,
if
high, so
is
find that the
line.
If
one-half inch too deep, so is the front shoulder length, and

the front shoulder length. The balance, therefore must be the same.
the scye depth
if
is
The next important measurement
is
the waist indentation.
We
all
know
too
that the greater
the waist hollow, the more back length we need, and that length can only be had by hollowthis
ing the backpart at the waist the proper amount to correspond with the indentation
will adjust the lengths of the backpart from the breast line down, the same as the scye depth
and strap will adjust it from the scye depth up.
:
HOW TO
MEASURE.
Before measuring, it is well to see that the sides of the Vest are not too loose; if necessary, pin up both sides of the Vest, but see that the center seam of the back is in the right
place.
Use
and
arm
the ordinary division square. Place square under the arm with the long end down
with the body. (See Fig. 1). The short end to be close, but not tight, under the
parallel
;
make
a chalk
mark on top
of
it
in front.
FIGURE
1.
HOW TO MEASURE
Now
2), still
edge of
place the short end of the square under the
keeping the inner edge of

it
across the
first line,
it
(Continued)
arm
witli the
long end upwartl (see Fig.
close, but not tight, at the front scye
so that
it
leaves a cross
mark
mark
at the front scye.
at the
outer
FIGURE
2.
HOW TO MEASURE
The
cross
mark shown on the
blade line cross.
front on Figure 3
(Continued)
shows where
tlie
hne
of scye depth
and
11
FIGURE
3.
12
HOW TO MEASURE
(Continued)
After tibtaiiiing this point, place the stjuare and yardstick tuyetlier (Fig.
the distance frc^m that square line
After the length

the ground
U])
is
down
to the floor as
side.
and measure
shown.
obtained, proceed as per -Fig.
on the backpart on each
1)
5.
Mark
the
same distance from
FIGURE
4.
FIGURE
5.
13
14
HOW TO MEASURE
(Continued)
Place the square across the two hues and mark mi the center seam. (Fig.
tlie
tape string around the liollow part of the waist and
down from C
where
tlie
liip
to 1) six inches for the liip measure.
may
l)e,
so Irmg as
measure, you must be right.
It
is
mark
6).
Now
place
the waist length at C.
easilv imdcrstood that
you go down the same ihstance
for
the
do
no matter
draft
as
the
FIGURE
C.
15
16
HOW TO MEASURE
(Fig. 7).
Now
place the yardstick against the liack and seat, and place the square to the
hollow of the waist to see

stick.
We
Now,
(Continued)
how much
indentatioii there
the average indentation at that place
shall explain later
on
how
this
measurement
is IJ/2
is
between the waist hollow and the
is
inches, but
used.
thi,s
may
be more or
less.
FIGURE
17
18
HOW TO MEASURE
(Continued)
(Fig. 8). Now beginning at the collar button, proceed to measure as follows: first from
on to the waist length and full length.
the socket bone or collar button to the scye depth
It is not necessary to call ofif the seat length for the simple reason that the seat length is
;
always
inches below the waist.
(Fig. 9).
Now
take the strap measure from the collar Initton
down
to the front
mark.
(Fig. 10). The overshoulder measure from the scye depth at the center of back, across
shoulder
to the front cross mark.
the
(Fig. llj.
The
blade measure, from the front cross line under the arm and over the blade
to the center seam of the backpart as illustrated. The breast measure, which should be taken
naturally, neither too loose nor too tight, should be taken o\er the largest part of the blade.
Then take the waist and seat measure. In taking the seat measure, we always make our ad-
measurements in the following manner: let us assume that the man to be

measured has two hip pockets in his trousers. If at the time of taking the measure, there
should lie nothing in either pocket, we add 1 inch to the measurements; should tiie one pocket
be full and the other one empty, we give J^ inch; should both pockets be reasonai)ly full,
we take the measurements easy and call it net.
ditions to the
THE
VEST.
If measured for a suit, all that is needed is the opening and

wise take the same measurements as for the coat.
full
length measure,
(itlier-
19
20
HOW TO MEASURE
(Continued)
TROUSERS.
Measure the outside seam from
For the inseam,
of heel
In
to
and reduce
tlie liip
iia\e the truusers well
}-4
inch
abr)ve the heel
to the top of heel they

it
will gi\'e
them the
to be \'ery narrow, the reduction
and reduce
liecl
|}-'|
inch.
drawn up and measure from the crotch
it
must be remembered
that
would be entirely too long
tn the top
the trousers were
if
for
wear, but
right length fur mcdiimi widths.
may
be
inch.'
but trousers with a permanent turn-up should

acturd measurements.
cif
then measure the waist, hip, seat, thigh, knee and bottom.
measuring the trouser length,
come down
l)one to the top
\ery wide trousers

iie
m;idc fmni
I'/]
If
may
if
made
'4
made
inch
the trouser legs are
be reduced
)/.
inch
to 2 indies shorter than the
rfl"U' in
'
"I"
i l
'
'T
* '* 1 1< r
il l '
.p..,,...,.,rTrr,T
FIGURE
U>.
21
22
THE SQUARE.
for these diagrams is a plain di\ision square, understood by most cutthe benefit of those who do not understand it, we herewith give an exphmation
of the divisions of same.
The square used
ters, Init for
is divided into 'A, Vi, Yb, A, 1-34; the short end is divided into
Should you try to find Ys of any size, say 36, 40 or 48,. look at the
short end of the square marked Ys, and there you will find the number you want, IS for 36,
20 for 40, or 24 for 48. Should you want >4 of any size, look at the same short end of square
marked >4, or if you want Vb, Vi or A, look at the long end for the mark Vz, Yb or A and you
The long end
will find
of the square
and
Ya, yi, 1-]*J
1/2,
1-32.
it.
In drawing for square lines, be sure that you hold your square on the one line lirndy,
while drawing the right angle, for one line off will spoil the whole draft.
DIAGRAM
We
ments
now proceed
will
for this
with the
1.
lesson which
tirst
is
grciundwork.
the
The measure-
diagram are as follows
Indentation
Scye depth
Waist length
Full length
Strap
IK'
'"t^lies
inches
I63X inches
inches or whatever
30
inches
12
inches
17
12><^ inches
inches
36
inches
32
inches
38
9
Overshoulder
Blade
Breast
Waist
Hip
it
might be
Square down and out from A.
From
(!
to
inches always;
tween
and F;
the scye depth plus Ya inch; to C is natural waist length; C to D is

E is full length; F is halfway between A and B G is halfway beand E.
square out from G, B, C,
is
to
From C to 2 is one-half the indentation, in this case J4 iii^~'i from E to 22 is one-half the
C to 2, in this case ^ inch. This is for body fitting coats. If the coat is to be
loose, make the distance from E to 22 the same as C to 2, but if the coat is to be a full box
Draw a line from F to 2 and
coat, then draw a line from F through 2 down to the bottom.
;
distance of
from
and shape the center seam
3 to 22
this locates point
1.
to M is one-half full breast; H to I is 1^ inches; I to J is -^ inch K is halfway

and H; from K to L is 3^/2 inches always; square down from L; this line drawn
down from L is used as the waist division and never changes now apply the blade measure
from 1 to L which is \2Y2 inches and make no additions to it, because in taking the measure
we have made a mark in front of the square which gives us the necessary addition; square
up from L.
From
between
Now let it be understood that the blade measure does not always come even with the line
squared down from L, as the increase or decrease of the blade measure may move the line
This will be more fully explained as we
either forwards or backwards from that point.
proceed with our diagrams.
to N
of the blade measure, which is halfway between 1 and L; from
and N,
point 4 is halfway between
this locates O
square up from N
be moved forwards to N or further backwards in accordance with the style
but
If the back is to be very shapely, we can move point 4 back as far as point
coat desired.
or if the back is to be straight, we may move it forwards to N.
Point
is
Ya inches
this may
is J/4
draw a line from 4 to 7 from N up

22 to 7 is the same distance as from 1 to 4
inch; from A to 8 is 6^
is
breast; square forwards from P; from P to
from A to 10 is Yb breast;
inches; from 8 to 9 is 1^ inches; draw a line from A to 9
square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from about Ya inch below 11 to O; from Q to
waist place the square to points
from Q to S is
inch
indentation, in this case
R is
R-S and square down this will regulate the front edgie.
From
to
is
^
;
if the waist indentation

I consider the waist indentation as normal at 1^ inches;
greater than IJ^ inches, the body is sway back. In such a case, the front edge retreats
from the waist down and causes the side seam to swing further back. Point T is halfway
up.
is halfway between L and I; draw a line from T through
and S; point
between
is
23
Xf>P
J
###-
3^H!)C
mnm
DIAGRAM
1.
22##E
24
DIAGRAM
Measure the distance
to point
from
\"
L and measure up
U; from V
to
frniii
to
which
to 11
to
\'
is
yii
is
the tup width of Ijack
the strap measure plus ^^
than the
less
iiH'h
not for stretching, but the backpart
is
to
Ije
rounding
the neck;
Frnm
from VV to
line
in
\'
this case,
\' to
is
by
;
line
this line
howe\er,
i^ breast;
T-U
it
to
is
is
from
from
this locates G;
to 12
from
is
to
necessary
tliis
amount
draw
inch tor seams;
This
hack shoulder.
of the
}<!,
a line
inch;
is
shape
and also the armscye as shown.
f<.)r
is
breast plus '^ inch;
ll,
coat
that
is
to
Ijutlnn
draw
u\t
to
only a guide for the gorge.

is
inch; S to 13
G to 15 is 3 inches.
\'
>^
b:-east
decreased in accordance with the prexailing style

the gorge;
\vi<lth
apply
fulled in against the forepart
the shoulder from about ^g inch below the line up to
Square forwards from
is
this
draw
the same;
distance
a line
square
may
from
down frnm
be increased or
to
K!
X
by
and shape
line
R-S
DIAGRAM
2.
25
26
DIAGRAM
to 3 and from 15 to 20; the additions to this seat

Apply the seat measure fi\)ni
have already been made in the measurements, therefore the measurements are applied net.
From 20 back to 19 is 2 inches; scjuare up from liJ to locate 18; draw a line from 18
through 20 down and shape the side ui the fi_>repart as sIkiwh; from 18 to 21 is the same
from Ki to 17 is y^, breast; shape the bottom ui forepart from
distance as from 5 to 7
'i'-i
21
to 17.
Now
back t(_i 14 is 2j/^

proceed as follows: frnm
to 2 and from II In IS; the surplus that you
will find between the actual measure and 18 is to be taken out as an under-arm fish as
shown.
Where an under-arm fish is cut out from the forepart, lower the scye as at K oneIt
This is not for chest eft'ect.
half the amount that lias been cut out at the waist.
is merely that the side of the forepart should be held short at the waist and e\en on the
inches;
if
a close-htting coat is desired,
apply the waist measure from
."-^
top.
THE COLLAR
straight crease collar is desired, proceed as follows: licmi \' to 31 is I34 inches;
to where the top button hole
represents the collar stand; draw a line through
from 24 to 25 is I34 inches; shajie the collar stand from 25 through \' into
is placed;
square up from 2.j
inch more than the top width of back
from V to 25 is
the gorge
finish
the collar as
seam;
plus
the
collar
desired
a
from 24 to 2G is the width of
to 24
collars.
kinds
different
of
another
will
show
On
page
we
shown.
If a
this
".
the pocket, proceed as follows; place the s<|uare to line R-.^ and square down
is Vj of the sleeve length plus J/ inch but this may be changed in cases
Under these conwhere the style of sack coat is extremely short or extremely long.
ditions, the distance may be increased or decreased to correspond with the coat style.
To mark
L to 27
from
Measure the distance from the bottom
of the forepart
up
to
.'8
and also
'JO;
the jiocket
should run parallel with the b<.ittom of the forepart.
Make
up
to 30;
30 to 31
'i
breast and from "JS back to iO the size
wanted, place the square to lines 28-20 and square
inches; square forwards and backwards from 30; from
the distance from 27 to 28 about
pocket desired;
if
a ticket pocket
from 28 to 30
is 1
is
inch; 31 to 32
o'/z
is
is
3J4 inches.
'3H!>D
DIAGRAM
.!.
27
iS
DIAGRAM
After the backpart and
111
tltc
inch,
front
Ijefore
fni-ei)art is
tlie
4
cut out place
tlie
back shciulder seam
slmuldcr a> shown on this (hagrani ami ajjply the oversiiouhler measure plus
from B to L;
if
coi'rect,
reshape the gorge and also the armscye so as to carry
the lines jjcrfectly and cut out the forepart.
DIAGRAM
Should the overshiiulder be too long, o\erlap
it
measurement plus
inch
addition
is
as
from Z to
the
until
proper
obtained and resluqje the shoulder as shown on this
diagram.
DIAGRAM
In case an artificially high shoulder
fi'om the breast line
shoulder from
tn
say
-J-^
desired, proceed as in diagram
is
up to A, also draw
a line
across the shoulder as at
or jA inch, allowing
advance the shoulder point as from
to
gorge and armscye as shown by the broken
and
line.
it
raise
il
draw
F-G
to o\erlai) at the gorge.

it
as at
reshajje the
a line
open the
This
will
shoulder,
DIAGRAMS
I,
5,
G.
29
^0
DIAGRAM
Should one shoulder be higher than the other, always take your measurements on
Init make your changes on the low side
as shown on diagram 7.
the high side and cut your pattern for that side,
Let us assume that the low shoulder
is
'l inch low,
then [jroceed as follows:
lower
the back from 13 to 14 say y^ inch and from 11 to Vl the same; place your regular backpart to point 14 and mark it as per broken line from 12 to 14; now pivot your backpart
resha])e the backpart as per broken
at 12 and swing it until point 10 will strike on line H
line; shorten the forepart from 15 to Ki the same amount as the backpart has been low:
ered from 13 to
14.
DIAGRAM
often happens that the body swings o\cr to
one side, in which case it appears

lower than the other and yet if l)oth shoulders were measured sepaStill on the low side, the
rately, the measurements on Ijoth sides would be the same.
coat would strike against the seat and the same amount would swing off on the high side
in which case the change should he made as shown on this diagram.
It
that one shoulder
is
After the forepart and backjjart ha\e been cut
for the high side, spHt the backpart

from 2 to 3 the amount the one shoulder is lower than the
other and do the same with the front part; split the front part as from 4 to 5 and overlap it from 5 to G the same amount as the backpart has been o\'erlapped from 2 to 3;
straighten the center seam of the back as shown by the l)rokcn line and lill in the side
seam the same amount.
as from
to 2
overlap
it
31
<
o
<
<
32
DIAGRAM
SACK COAT FOR A FIGURE WITH A LARGE BLADE.

same
Tlie nu'asiirements are the
exception that
measure
tlie liladc
is
as described
fur this coat
l.'l
indies instead of
1"?'2
fur
inches.
diagram 1, with tlic

Square dnwn and
out from A.
From A
to
is
to
square out frcmi

h'rom
inches;
to J
is
J/^
and
is
^4
square down from

from 1 to L which
scye depth plus
tlie
B, C,
(i,
to 2
from V to
line
is
P.
length;
full
I)
the indentatiun
inch;
;
is
and B;
.\
to
1;
inch;
3".'
'/.
is
fmm
to
waist length;
(1
is
the distance of
11
is
to
lA
breast;
(>
inches;
and F;
is
halfway lietween
draw
to 2;
Fl
to
is
FV^
and H; from K to 23 is VA inches;

halfway between
waist apply the blade measure
from 21 to S is
case is F"i inches and square up and down from L; this locates Q.
this
in this
this locates
2 to 22;
2.'J
y{^
halfway between
and E.
is
is
locates 24;
1--2
M U< N is 1^/4 inches; square up fnmi N to

halfway between M and N; from 'I'l to 7 is the
is 'j the flistance of F
same distance as 1 to I; draw a line from 4 to 7; from A to
2'?>
back
from
into
or J/> of the blade increase; shape the center
'I')
V.
to
Foint
locate ();
M
N
is
halfway between
to
is
t'3
breast;
and F;
j)oint
is
v'.'i
draw a line from A to 1); from 25

draw a line from 34 i'T-"'! below .11 to
U is halfway be(J and sha]>e the back as shown; ]>oint T is halfway between (J and S;
draw a line from T through L" up; from 'lb to 11 and L to \' is the strap
tween F and
measure plus ^4 inch; draw a line from \' to (); from \' to Z is ;y^ inch less than the
back shoulder width; drop the shoulder fi inch below Z and shape the shoulder and armiM'om
to
1(1
is
'1,
to S
is
(i;Fs
inches;
8 to
!)
is
IJ,-!
breast; s(|uare up from in to locate
inches;
II
scye.
Now
linish this coat in the
same manner as described on diagram
;i.
This slight round
bring the shoulder width up to the

normal and will give just enough njund to pocket the blade bone, and give it a clear
that
we have
side seam.
olitained
at
the
center
of
back
will
DIAGRAM
9..
;53
34
DIAGRAM
10
SACK COAT FOR A FIGURE WITH A SMALL BLADE.

The measurements are the same for this cuat as descrilied
exception that the blade measure is 12 inches.
f(ir
diagram
with the
i,
From A
to
is
to
full
is
the scye depth plus ^4 inch;
length;
From C
to 2
is
halfway between
and E.
is
3^ the indentation;
to 22
and
is
J4
is
tlic
waist length;
P.;
(i
is
to
is
distance of
to 2;
(i
halfway Ijetween
draw
inches;
and
l'
a line
and 2 to 22; from 1 t<i II is y^ breast; H to I is 1^ inches; 1 to J is 3^

and H; from K to L is l^y2 inches; square dnwn from L
inch; K is halfway between
to locate O; from Q to S is y^ waist; apply the blade measure from 1 to 2;i which is 12
inches and square up and down; this locates 21; M is halfway between 1 and 23; from M to
N is lj4 inches; square up from N; N to P is 12 breast; point 1 is halfway between M and
N from 22 to 7 is the same distance as from 1 to 1 draw a line from 1 to 7.
from V
to 2
From A to 25 is
F and shape the
25 to
a line from 25 to
!);
the distance of 23 to L, in this case 34 iin^h

draw a line from
center seam; from 25 to 8 is G;Hi inches; 8 to 1) is ly inches; draw
25 to 10 is IL breast; square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line
1/
from 34 inch below 11 to O and shape the back; point

point U is halfway between 2.') and
draw a line from
1
I'rcjm
to
The
25 to 11 and 23 to
is
T is halfway between
T through U up.
the strap measure plus
shape the shoulder and armscye as shown and finish
in
^5^4
the
and S;
draw a line from V

same way as on diagram 3.
inch;
difference between this coat and the normal coat is that whilst the waist is apjilied from
where the 33/) inches are squared down, the division for the shoulder ]joint is always made
by the blade measure.
DIAGRAM
10.
35
-ifi
DIAGRAMS
Diagram
the hackpart
l)y
11.
is
To
1".'.
er at the shoulder
to
This part of the back
wing" to be put in on that part
Diagram
AND
12
cause a small fold at the back nf the arm, proceed as follows:
cut out, add fnim
brciken line.
II
To make
seam and
(if
B
is
or jj inch and reshape the backpart as sliown
to be
the back in
after
drawn
making up
in
and pressed back; there
is
no
coat.
the shoulder narrower, ]>lace the backpart and forepart togethresha|je as
shown bv
the broken line.
DIAGRAM
11.
DIAGRAM
12.
3?
38
DIAGRAM
Diagram
shoulder
al)out
inch;
inch or
to increase the
may
add from
inch
width of
proceed as shown
to
tlie
in this
shoulder.
diagram.
If
an extremely wide
Add from A
to
B and
the same amount; add to the backpart from
add from P to
Q ^
to
inch and reshape the back part as per broken
Now place the back shoulder alongside of the

from Y to correspond with the back part as at N.
line.
as
Yi.
shows how
wanted, yi3u
is
11 to 13 say
13
13
front shoulder and reshape the forepart
This
will increase the shoulder
without disturbing or interfering with any other part of the coat.

should be measured for the sleeve before the addition has been made.
Of course
width
the armhole
DIAGRAM
k;.
39

DIAGRAM
14
SACK COAr FOR A SWAY-BACK FIGURE.

measurements are as follows:
Tlie
gi^ inches.
Indentation
9^
Scye depth
Waist length
17
Full length
30>4 inches.
Strap
13J4 inches.
17^^ inches.
Overshouhk-r
Blade
13
inches.
38
inches.
Waist
3iy2 inches.
Seat
401/2
inches.
and out from A.
d(_)\vn
From A to B is scye depth plus ^4 inch; C is natural waist length; C to D is G inches;

E is full length; F is halfway between A and B; G is halfway between A and F;
to
square out from
of
inches.
Breast
S(|uare
inches.
B, C,
(I,
and E.
From C to 2 is ^
C to 2; draw
the indentation, in this case l|s inches; F to 22 is '^ the distance

a line from F to 2 antl 2 to 22 and shape the center of back;
to
is J4 breast;
to 1 is 1^ inches; 1 to J is 44 inch;
is
from
this locates 1
from 1
H
H
K
and H; from K to L is 3'/, inches; square down from L to locate
halfway between
Q; apply the blade measure from 1 to L which is 13 inches and sc[uare up; M is halfway between 1 and L; M to N is \y^ inches; square up from N to locate O.
;
halfway between M and N; from 22 to 7 is the

from
to 7
from .\ to S is ('>-}i inches 8 to
inches; draw a line from A to 9; A to JO is li breast; square up from 10 to
draw a line from j/4 inch below 11 to O and shape the back,
From N
9
is
13/2
locate
11
to
same distance
is
point 4
breast;
1^-2
as from
to 4
draw
is
a line
THE FOREPART.
From O to S is '< waist; [loint T is halfway between (J and
between F and 1; draw a line from T through U up frcjui Ato
measure plus
inch; draw a line from \ to O; from \' to Z is y^
;
j'4
shoulder width
U
and L to V
S;
II
point
is
halfway
is
the strap
inch less than the back
drop the shoulder ^g inch at Z and shape the sliotdder and armscye
as shown.
Square fcjrwards from V by line T-U

from \V to X is
ing line from VV to J;
I-o
to
breast
is 'A
minus
breast plus
y^
inch;
j/2
inch; ilraw a round-
\'
to
is
'
breast;
X, as explained before, is merely a change for lapel style; draw a line from ^'
to X and shape the gorge; from Q to R is the same distance as from C to 2, in this case
^}i inches; draw a line from R through S; from S to 13 is 1 inch; J to 12 is the same;
and Ki.
this locates points
square down fnjm 13 by line R-S
from
to
(i
to 20
from 23 to
and
is the hip measure; from S back to 14 is 2^ inches; from 5 to 2 and 14 to 18 is the waist
measure plus -Vj inch
draw a line from 18 through 20 down and shape the side of forefrom 18 to 21 is the same distance as 5 to 7; shape the front edge, bottom of forepart
I''r(jm
11;
to
1;
is
part and fmish.
breast;
from
(i
back to
1-')
i'-
'!
inches;
;!
.")
DIAGRAM
14.
41
43
DIAGRAM
15
Tills diagram shows how to cut an increased or exaggerated size coat without disThe measurements for this coat are the same as given in the
turbing the balance.
previous diagram, except that the waist indentation is normal.
to
From A to B is the
E is full length; F
scye
is
plu^
dt'iilli
inch;
J/(
halfway between
and \L.
waist length:
is
and B;
to
inches;-
is
halfway between
is
Cl
and F;
the indentation, }4 inch; E to 22 is y^ the distance of from C to 2;

and 3 to 23; shape the center seam; from 1 to 34 is 'j inch;
3 to 3.5 and o to 3G are the same; from 24 to IT is y> breast; II to I is Ifj inches; I to
is halfway between 34 and H;
to L is sy^ inches; square down from L
J is î inch;
h'rom
draw
a line
to 2 is
fmm F
J^j
to 3
to locale (J;
apply
tlic
measure from 34
lilade
to
L which
is
tn 34; point M is halfway

to 37 is y inch or y the distance of from
and 37; M to N is ly inches; square up from X tn locate O; point is halfway
M and N; from 33 to 7 is the same <listaiicc as fnim to 4; draw a line fmni 7 to
P is I'l breast; from A to 8 is 6^ inches; S to is I'j inches; draw a line from .\
From L back
between
between
4;
to
N
ii
to
inches and square up.
I.'!
t)
to
.V
10
is
square up from 10 to locate Ji;
breast;
'o
ilraw a line from
inch
and shape the back.
beliiw 11 to ()
halfwas' between (J and S; point U is halfway

through U up; frcmi A to Jl and L to Y is the strap
measure plus ^'4 inch; draw a line from \' to O; V to Z is y inch less the width of the
back shoulder; drop the shoulder y inch at Z and shajje the shoulder and armscye.
I'"rom
Ijetween
to S
L and
I;
is
y^ waist;
a line
draw
V
to
and shape the gorge; from
inch;
from 10
from 30
to 13
the same;
is
to 17 is
j/^
breast;
is
to
T-U;
to 15
li
is
square
(I
'V is
Ijy line
ing line from W" to
point
from
to
.'>
breast plus 'j inch;
is
breast;
fi'oni
Iv
draw
draw
a line
through S;
from
round-
to
to F!
is
X
i
by line R-S this locates pcjints

and JG;
inches; from 2-> to 3(1 and 13 to 30 is the hip measure;
i:i
li
i)ack to 19 is 3 inches.
IS; draw a line from
same distance as from 5
Square up from 19 to locale

side of forepart;
the other coats.
mended
is 'A
inch; draw a line
down from
is
^V
breast; V^ to
18 to 31
is
the
This kind of
men.
for tall, slender
a jtattern will
IS tliroUL;h
to 7;
".'0
down and shape
linish this coat the
produce an easy coat and
it is
the
same as
specially recom-
DIAGRAM
15.
J4
DIAGRAM
16
FOUR-BUTTON STRAIGHT-HANGING SACK.

The
tneasurcmeiits are as follows:
Scye depth
Waist length
uy^ inches
inches
SOjA inches
17
length
PTill
Strap
]2ji inches
18
indie's
Overshouklcr
Blade
\3%
Breast
inches
inches
35>2 inches
iiy^ inches
39
\Vaist
Scat
S(|uare (Inwn and out from A.
From A
to
is
scjuare out
to
full
is
li
the scye dejjth plus
length;
from G, B, C,
From C
inch;
iialfway Ijctween
is
(_"
and
is 'aist
length;
11;
halfway between
(i
is
to
is 6
inches;
and F;
and E.
to 2 and scpiare down;

from 1 to H is y2 l)reast
to J is )4 inch; K
11 lo
is 1;^ inches;
I
is halfway between
and H; K to L is 3}-^ inches; square down from L to locate Q;
apply the blade measure from 1 to I, which is 3 '4 inches and square up;
is halfway
from
N-to
from
locate O;
N to P is i'j
between
and L; M to N is ^y inclics; squaie up
from
to
to
draw
line
N.
breast; 22 to 7 is tlie same distance as
N;
a
to 2
inch,
is -"4
J/2
draw
indentation;
this locates 22;
from
line
1'"
"i
from A
S to
draw a line from A to
is P/^ inches;
Hi
and
shape
from
line
from
11
b)
to locate 11; draw a
O
to 10 is ''b Ijreast
square up
the back as shown; from Q to S is 'j waist minus ;/. inch; ])oint T is halfway between
O and S; point U is halfway between F an 1 I; draw a line from T through U up; from
inch; ilraw a line from Y to (); from V to
A to 11 and L to \' i^ the stra|) measure i)lus
drop the shoulder 'x "icli at Z and shape
Z is
inch less than the back shoulder width
From A
to S
is
G-)s
inehes;
!)
!l
"'
the shoulder ancl armscye.

S(|uarc forwards from
ing line
fmm
this coat is cut
from
J to
cates K;
1'.'
is
K; to
to
'j
1
;.
\'
from
by
(J to
inch smallei'
inch;
b;
is
I,,
line T-II
S to
at
is
v'f
inch
to
draw
the front waist;
13 is the
same;
is
breast plus yi inch:
'/.
R through
a line from.
this
square
is
down
done
to
fioni
S.
draw a roundTake note:
reduce the front edge;

by line R-S; this lo-
13
breast.
20
Square down from 5; this

down and sha|)e the side of
7;
shape the front
eilge,
locates
10;
l!l
to 20
i- 2
from 5 to 21
bottoni of forepart and finish.
forepart;
iiudies
is
the
draw a line from 5 through

same distance as from 5 to
12
f>
,J
/^
45
-80^!)C
ÎD
22
DIAGRAM
Mi.
46
DIAGRAM
17
BOX SACK COAT.

Although not as
This diagram shows what is considered a box sack coat.

a box overcoat, yet it will hang full from the shoulder down.
same as shown on the pre\ious diagram.
down and
Scûare
From A
to
to
full
is
is
full
The measurements
as
are the
out from A.
the scye depth plus j4 inch;
length;
halfway between
is
waist length;
is
and B;
to
inches;
and F;
is
halfway between
is
(i
and F.
is
inch;
breast;
to
from
halfway between 1
and 11; from K to L is 3>^ inches; square down from L tn locate Q; apply tlie blade
to N is
measure from 1 to L and square up; M is halfway between 1 and L; from
from
18 to I'J
1}^ inches; square up and down from N; this locates points (J and 18;
inches.
from
111
to 20, 5
is V/> inches; \S to 20 is 0J-2 inches, or make the distance
From C
to
is 1/2
to 2
a line from
draw
is
inches;
1>1>
F through
to J
is
^4
down;
inch;
this locates 23;
is
square out from 1'; V to 23 is '/i inch; draw lines from P

is 1'/,
through l!t to 7 and from 23 tlirougli 20 down; from A to 8 is C>î inches; ,S to
lo
to
scpiare
from
locate
is
breast;
up
A to 10
'A
11;
inches; draw a line from A to
;ind sliape the back.
draw line from ^4 inch below 11 to
From N
to I'isi'i breast;
'J
il
S is y^ inch less than j waist; jjoint T is halfway l)etween O and S; point

between
L and 1; draw a line from T througli U up; from A to 11 and L to
U is halfway
inch
measure
plus -y^ inch; draw a line from \' to '); from \' to Z is
the
strap
is
V
less than the back shoulder widtli; drop the shoulder 's incli at / and shape the shoulder
and armscye.
I'^rom
to
'
}/)<,
forwards from
.S(|uare
\'
by
line
T-U
from
\'
to
a roundino line from \V to J; \V to X isS'. breast; \' to

inch;
through .\ and shaiê the gorge; from (J to R is
is
'
.,
is
breast plus
's
ij
draw
inch;
breast; draw a line from
draw a line frcjui K to .S from

this locates
square down from 13 by line R-S
breast; from 23 to 21 is the same distance as from 23 to 7;
point IG; 'from 16 to 17 is
shape the bottom of forepart and finish hollowing the side seam of the forepart about 34
1
S to 13
is
inch;
to
12
is
inch
at
the waist.
the same;
DIACR.VM
1'
47
48
DIAGRAM
18
'
THREE-BUTTON STOUT MAN'S SACK.

measurements
Tlic
are as follows:
Indentation
Scye depth
Waist length
Full length
Strap
IJ^ inches
inches
J 7
inches
3]
inches
13
inches
18J4 inches
];i'< inches
^0
inches
10
inches
i2
inches
S'/?
Overshoulder
Blade
Breast
Waist
Hip
S(juare
down and
I'"nim
to
scpiare out
B is the scye depth plus j/4 in^h C

length; F is halfway between A and
to
full
is
out from A.
from
(_!,
B, C,
waist length;
is
B;
(1
to
is
halfway between
is
to 2 is 3^ the indentation; E to 22 is }^ the distance of C to 2

and 2 to 22; shape tlie center seam; from 1 to
is '4 breast;
inches I to J is
inch
square up a short line from J
is halfway between 1
scûare down from L to locate
to L is 3^/2 inches
apply the blade measure
;
inches and square up;

inches
square up from N to locate
and N.
which
is 131/2
;
draw
and F;
and E.
From C
from F to
inches;
C>
to
a line
is
1^
and H from
from 1 to L,
;
halfway between 1 and L; from M to N is 1^

from N to P is iV breast point 4 is halfway between
is
23 to T is the same distance as from 1 to 4; draw a line from 7 to 4; from A to

inches; 8 to 9 is IjA inches; draw a line from A to 9; from A to 10 is H breast;
square u]j fr<:)m H) to locate 11; draw a line from J4 inch below 11 to O and shape the
back; from Q to S is Â waist; point T is halfway between O and S; point U is halfway between L and I; draw a line from T thrciugh U up.
From
8 is
(i-}4
is the strap measure plus .;4 inch; draw a line from V to O;

inch less than the ]:)ack shoulder widtli
drop the shoulder
inch at
Z and shape the shoulder and armscye; square forwards from \^ by line T-U
square
forwards from U by the same line; this lo^-ates 23; draw a line from
to 23;
to
X is breast; \' to Y is }i breast; draw a line from Y to X and shape the gorge.
From A
fruni \' to
to 11
is
and L to
'/(,
is 1 inch; S to 13 is the same;

Q to R is J4 the indentation; draw a
and 16;
through S and square down from 11] by that line; this locates points
breast; from G back to 15 is
inches; this being a stout man's coat and
from 16 to 17 is
the seat measure being small, we apply the measurements in the following manner; from
S back to 14 is 2J/2 inches; from 5 to 2 and 11 to 18 is the waist measure net.
We always
make it a rule to cut the stout man's or fal man's coat with as little addition as possible
From
line
from
23 to 12
(3
.".
at the waist.
Square down from 18 to locate 19; froni 19

through 20 diiwn and shajje the side of forepart;
from 5 to 7; draw a straight line from 21 to 17.
Now
25 to 20
is
api)ly the actual seat
surplus and
is
2(t
from
21 to 3
is
18
inches;
to 21
and from
\'i
is
to
draw a line from

the same distance
2.");
to be taken out as will be sluiwn in the next
pocket as usual after which

as
measure from
ti>
split
the
from 24 to 37 and from 27 down
IS
as
the distance from
diagram;
mark
the
forepart as from 30 to 21 and cut the pocket open
to 28.
(Now
see
diagram
19).
DIAGRAM
18.
49
50
DIAGRAM
I'lace tlie
two parts
21)
until the distance
from
make
clii)
and square up
of
about }i inch
30.
out a small piece as at 24;
taken out at
throw
2-1-27
the distance from 2i to 30 about 3 inches; cut out a small
between 27 and
Now
line
27,
a little fulness
and
will
this will
the foreiiart
flallcu
o\er the hip as
is
make
at
U|)
the
necessary for a
for the
front
man
of
two seams which
corner of the
llii^
])iicket
After the front ha> been overlapped between
25 to the bottom of the side seam.

(juired to
go over the round
jiart
This will
of the stomach.
2l5
and
:!'.).
will
and
build.
Notice also the change that has taken place from the thin line tn the hca\ y
liotloni.
at 24;
same as the surplus
to 2 is the
on the previous diagram from 25 to 20; place the square to
to ,50;
lie
and keep the two edges close
of the forepart together at ^7,
overhip them between 28 and

is
19
draw
line at the
a straight line
gi\e the aninnnl of excess length that
from
is re-
DIAGRAM
19.
51
r>2
DIAGRAM
20
THREE-BUTTON SACK COAT FOR A CORPUIT.N

The measurements
are as follows:
FIGURE.
]^
inches
O\ershoul(ler
!;!4
inches
Blade
14 inches
Waist length
17
inches
Breast
42 inches
Full length
31
inches
l-'>y>
Waist
Hip
15 inches
inches
Indentation
Scye depth
Strap
Square down and
i'"rom
to
sciuare out
F^rom
from
the scyc depth plus '4 inch;
is
B, C,
(i,
to 2
is
.inches
17
fmni A.
i.iut
length;
full
is
to
]y inches
is
hallway between
and V..
and
inch, y, the indentation;
waist length;
is
I"
11;
to 22 is
is
to
halfwa\' hetween
the distance of
J/<
is
(1
A
to 2
iuclies;
and
1'";
draw
from
to H is yi
breast; H to I is ].>4 inches; 1 to j is )'4 inch; K is halfway between 1 and H; K to L
square down from L to locate O ajiply the blade measure from 1 to L which
is 3J/2 inches;
a line
from F to
and from
2,
to 22
and shai)e
center of hack;
tlie
is
14 inches and square up.
and L; from M to N is 1J4 inches; s(juare up from N to

point 4 is halfway between M and N; from 22 to 7 is the
same distance as from 1 to 4 draw a line from 4 to 7 A to 8 is (S-'/x inches; 8 to 9 is IJ'j
inches; draw a line from A to it; A to 10 is "0 breast; square up from 10 to locate 11
draw a line from V4 inch below 11 to O and shape the liack.
locate
is
halfway l)etvveen
O; N
to
is
breast;
From
to
is
1-2
T is halfway between O and S; jioint U is halfway

from T through U up; from A to 11 and L to \' is the strap
\' to Z is
line from V to O
^ inch less than the back
point
waist;
between L and I; draw a line

inch
draw a
measure plus
shoulder width; drop the shoulder
-'-4
3-^
inch at Z and sliape the shoulder and armscye.
breast plus J/1 inch, also square

Square forwards from \' by line T-U V to ^\ is
draw a rounding line from
.square up from J to locate 23
forwards from U by line T-U
\' to Y is
draw a line from
desired;
from
of
gorge
the
depth
X
is
to
'/s breast;
to 23;
draw
a line from R
indentation
or
the
R
is
inch
gorge;
to
the
Y to X and shape
Q
from
by line R-S
square
down
13
12
is
the
1
inch;
23
to
same;
13
is
through S; S to
'1',
this locates points G
F"rom IG to 17
and
is i^
the waist mea.sure net;
Now
_>
IG.
breast
from S back
draw
a straight line
to 2 and 14 to 5 is
from
from 19 to 20 is 2 inches; draw
side of forepart; from 5 to 21 is the same
from 21 to 17.
fo 14 is 2',A inclies;
down from 5 to
down and shape the
square
a line from 5 through 20
distance as from 5 to 7;
'
r.
locate 19;
to IS; fnim 18 to 20
apply the hip measure from 19 to 3 and
must be reduced the same as shown on diagrams 18 and 19.
1 Ti
is
surplus and
53
-3-îD
mS'E
DIAGRAM
ao.
54
DIAGRAM
DOUBLE-BREASTED
The measurements
VA
Full length
Strap
From A
to
to
draw
a line
II to
inches
is
;
17
Breast
38
inches
30>4 inches
131/2 inches
Waist
34^
inches
Seat
40J/4
inches
the scye depth plus
is
From C
17?^ inches
inche s
13
out from A.
length;
full
is
Overshoulder
Blade
inches
9>^ inches
inches
Scye depth
Waist length
down and
to 2
is
from F to
scjuare
j/4
2
I
inch;
halfway between
and E.
is
indentation which
3^
FV4 inches;
SACK. COAT.
are as follows:
Indentation
S((uarc
21
and
to J
down from L
is
is
is
and B
yl inch;
waist length;
is
to 23
to
is 1/
is 6
inches;
and F;
the distance of
to 32 and shape the center seam; from 1 to

K is halfway between 1 and 11;
.;4 inch;
to locate
halfway between
H
K
is 3/2
to
to 2
breast;
is
3)^
Q.
Apply the blade measure from 1 to L which is 13 inches and square up; M is halfway
between 1 and L; M to N is 1^4 inches; square up from N; N to P is 1*2 breast; point
4 is halfway between M and N; from 22 to 7 is the same distance as from 1 to 4 draw
from A to 8 is 6^ inches; 8 to 9 is 1^ inches; draw a line from A
a line from 4 to 7
to 9; A to 10 is ^^ breast; square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from ^4 i"ch below
;
11 to
and shape the back.
From Q to S is ^ waist; point T is halfway between Q and S; point U is halfway

between L and I; draw a line from T through U up; from A to 11 and L to V is the
from V to Z is }i inch less than the
strap measure plus -/^ inch; draw a line from V to O
drop the shoulder }i inch at Z and shape the shoulder and armback shoulder width
from V to
is ]i breast plus '2 inch; draw
scye; square forwards from V by line T-U
draw a line from Y to X
is
breast
to
Y
is
breast;
V
X
J^
from
to
from
to
line
>^
a
J
the
gorge.
shape
and
;
From
to
is
button stand desired,
;4
as S to 13
draw
inch;
in this
the distance from S to 13
same
a line
from
through S;
case the buttons are to be
is 3
inches;
square
(>
down from
from S
to
13 is
'^
of the
inches from the edge, therefore

13
by
line
R-S
to 13
is
the
shape the front edge.

2i^ inches;
G to 15 is
inch less than 13 to 14; from 23 to 3
square up fmm 10 to locate IS;
back
19
is
2
inches;
to
and 15 to 20 is the hip measure; 20
the
side
of forepart: from 18 to 21 is
draw a line from 18 through 20 down and sliape
from 16 to 17 is }i breast; shape the bottom of forepart
the same distance as from 5 to 7
From S back
to 14
is
and
finish.
Apply the waist measure from

out an underarm
fish.
5 to 3
and 14 to 18 and suppress the balance
l)y
taking
DIACKAM
21
sn
Mi
DIAGRAM
11
DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK COAT FOR STOUT FIGURE.

lllea^^llrenle^ts are as follows
'I'lic
Indentation
1,-2
inches
Overshoulcler
1!)
Scye dei)th
!i;}4
inches
Blade
Breast
11 inches
Waist length
:;
Strap
to
inches
is
to
the sc\c depth plus
is
length;
full
42 inches
inches
11
and dUt Imin A.
diiwii
From A
\t inches
Waist
Hip
inches
i:!>^
Square
inches
IT
Full length
inches
halfway hctweeu
and F.
is
inch;
I/4
waist length;
is
and
to
is
inches;
(i
halfway between
is
(i
I!;
V\
an<l
L' to 2;
draw a line from
seam; from tn 11 is '_. hreast II to I is
inches;
I to J is >4 inch;
K is halfway between and 11; K tn I. is ;!'_. inches; square down
from L to locate (J; a|)ply the blade measure from
tn F whicii is II inches and square
and F; M to N is 1^4 inches; square up from N to locate O.
up; M is halfway between
('
i'"roiu
F'
to 2
and
to
is
.2
y, indentation;
to 22 is Vi the distance nf
!*"
sha|)e the center
3 to 22;
.Vjj
b'rom
to
distance as from
draw
inches;
is
draw
from
a line
puinl
breast;
i'-
to 4
to
!)
is
halfway between
froiu
line
to
to
in is
'7;
l)reast
'i.
In S
and N; 22 to
G;>^
is
same
the
is
to
!)
is
]J,<
up from ID to locate 11;
s(puire
inches;
a line fnmi J4 inch below 11 to O and shape the l)ack

(J tn .^ is J,< waist; point T
halfway between O and S; point U is halfway between L and I; draw a line from '!'
through LT up; A to 11 and L to \ is the strap measure ])lus ;4 inch; draw a line from V
to O; V to Z is V-i inch less than the l>ack shoulder width; droj) the shoulder
inch at Z
and shape the shoulder and armscye.
draw
is

wards froiri U by line T-l'
23
to
\V to
is
is
inch or
inches; square
23 to 13
is
breast
'1',
j,i
by
to
down from
13
by
T-LT
line
scpiare
up from
is
line
to
to Icicate
draw
R-S;
breast
1%
the indentation
draw
line
is
2.'!
breast plus J^ inch; square for-
draw
rounding line from \V to

X and shape the gorge
through S: S to i:! is 334
and 1(5; 16 to 17 is l^ breast;
a line from
from
this locates ])oints 6
ti_)
to 18
is
back to
the waist measure net;
squa-re
is
2>< inches;
1.5
is
ij
inch le-s than 13 to 14;
down from
IS to locate 10;
draw a line from IS through 20 down and shape the side

draw a straight line from 31 to
inches;
Now
of forepart;
1!)
5 to 2
to 20
is
18 to 31
8
is
17.
apply the actual hip measure from 34 to 3 and 15 to 3.5; the distance from 25 to
is 134 inches;
split the forepart open as shown and manipulate in the same
20 in this case
manner
the same distance as S to 13; shape the lapel and front edge.
F^rom S back to 14
and 14
\'
;
as
shown
in
diagrams 18 and 19 and
finish.
17
DIACRAM
2-t.
57
58
DIAGRAM
23
THREE-BUTTON SACK COAT FOR A HUNCH-BACK.

Tlie iiieaMiicincnts are as follows:
2
8 inches
16^^ inches
Overshoiilder
inches
liulentatiuii
Scye depth
inches
10
inches
Waist
38
inches
Flip
41
inches
Blade
Waist length
17 inches
Breast
Full length
'><)
inches
Strap
11 inches
From A
to
to
is
From C
to 2
distance from
is
to 31 is ^yi inches;
breast;
is
14 inches
to
22 to 7
Draw
same
a line
1^
draw
a line
inches;
to J
down from 31 to
and square up and down
the
is
I is
square
inches; square up from
and
As we do
y< indentation.
L which
inch
halfway between
and E.
is
to 22 the
to
is i^
the scye depth plus
length;
full
is
to locate
O N
;
to
same distance
as
from
to 8
from 4 to
F"'
waist length
is
and B
not want
is
to
coat too shapely,
tiiis
is
halfway between
inches
and F;
we make
the
and from 2 down to 22 from 1

is }i inch; K is halfway between 1 and H;
locate Q; apply the blade measure from 1 to
M to N is 134
T^\ is halfway between 1 and L;
point 4 is halfway between M
is iV breast;
from
F"
to 2
to 4.
is
6^
inches;
to
is
1^
draw
inches;
from A to 9 A to 10 is % breast; square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from

below 11 to O and shape the back; from Q to S is J/^ waist; point T is halfway beinch
J4
from A
draw a line from T through
is halfway between L and I
tween 6 and S point
draw a line from V to O.
to 11 and L to V" is the strap measure plus ;!4 inch
line
Now
apply the overshoulder measure plus
inch
frnm
and
to 24
to 33;
in
this
case the overshoulder measure up to line V-Z is

follows: from A to 26 is 1^4 inches; 10 to 27 is the same; square up from 27 to locate 28;
from O to 29 is \}i inches; draw a line from 28 through 29; draw a line from 26 to F
and reshape the back as shown, shaping the top of the back from 26 which is the upper line.
1 '/^
inches
short,
therefore proceed as
Measure the distance from 28 to 30 and make the distance from A^ to Z ji inch less;
from V
shape the shoulder and armscye as shown; square forwards from \' l)y line T-U
more
or less
breast
\\'
from
to
X
li
distance
make
the
inch;
plus
is H breast
to
J4
from
forwards
square
brea.st
from
Y
is
to
gorge
desired;
V
of
kind
>^
according to the
is
to
13
through
S
R
S;
inch;
line
from
1
draw
a
to
R
is
gorge;
O
Y and shape the
to
17
this
locates
16
16
line
R-S
square
down
from
13
by
same;
to 12 is the
1 inch;
T
breast; S back to 14 is 2^4 inches square ilown from 11 to locate 15; 19 to 3 and 15
is
;
J/s
to 20
is
the seat measure.
From 5 to 2 and 14 to 18 is the waist measure draw a line from IS through 20 down
and sliapc the side of forepart; shape the front edge, bottom of forepart and finisli.
:
131)^'
DIAGRAM
23.
59
AMERICAN GARMKNT CUTTER
00
DIAGRAM
24
SHAWL COLLAR TUXEDO.

'["lie
measurenienls are as follows:
Indciitatioii
inches
inches
Blade
Breast
;iG
inches
inches
J/2
l'i>-j
Scye depth
Waist length
!()'/>
inches
Waist
o2
inches
Strap
\'i
inches
Seat
:iS
inches
17
inches
(.)\
crshoulder
Sqnare down
I''n>ni
tn
fruni
an<l init
the scye
is
15
y\.
plus J4 inch;
deijtii
waist length;
is
to
inches;
is 6
lialfway between A and B; (' is halfway between A and F;

A t(i K is full length;
to 32 is y, the distance of
square dut fnmi (1, 11. C, I) and E; C to 2 is ^2 indcntatii )n
shape
the
center of back.
and
to
to
2 and 2
22,
ficini C to
draw a line fnmi V
I'
is
:.'
h'rniii
111
and
between
measure from
1
]:
11
is
'
II;
tM
breast:
1,
tn
II
:','
i>
is
i^
inches;
to
is
square down frMiii L

inches and s,|uarc u]i;
inciies;
.;.[
inch;
lu lipcate
<
is
halfway
ajiply the blade
halfway between I and

fruni M to N is i_^4 inches; S(|uare up from N ti> locate U; fnmi N to V is t'j breast;
1.:
to I; draw a
and N; 22 to 7 is the same distance as fmni
pnint 4 is halfway between
t(i 7;
A to S is (J^Vs inches; 8 to D is lyi inches; draw a line fnmi A U>
line fnmi
1
In
whicli
is
12'
is
.\1
'.).
breast: sc|uare up from 10 to h.icate II; draw a line fruiu '4 inch
Imi'Iii a ti' in is
bclnw II t(i (J and shape the back: ij tn S is j waist; point T is halfway l)etween O and
S pciint li is halfway l)etween L and I draw a line from T through U up; from A to 11
and L to \' is the strap measure plus .;4 inch draw a line fnun \' to O; \' to Z is ^g i'lch less
than the l)ack shoulder width dn>p the -houldcr > inch at Z and >liape the shimlder and arni'1.
'
scye.
by line T-U: from \' to 2:! is ^}^ inches which is for the
draw a line
collar stand; 2:i to \\ is the width nf the collar desired plus 14 i"^'' i^'"' seam
from ^\ through 1: from [J to R is ;4 inch; draw a line, from R to S ,ind s(|uare down;
is 2 inches; 27 to
ami Ki: from Hi to 17 is J4 breast: from l)ack to
this locates points
scjuarc
u]> fnmi 19 to
to
inches;
10
is
back
2
from
90
measure;
seat
is
the
20
15
to
and
from 18 to 21
forejjart
of
2(1
the
side
shape
through
and
IS
from
line
draw
a
locate 18;
Square forwards
fmm
\"
."1
V,
(i
;!
is
the same distance as fnmi
.')
to 7;
draw
a line
from
21
to 17.
THE COLLAR
Draw- a
Fnim
the back.
24 to 26
line
is
from
2-1
to
li
2.">
through
is
2;'.
uj)
more than
the top width of

and into the gorge;
shape the collar from 20 through J and 1.3 to 6.
from
2;'>
to 2d is
inch
I34 inches; shape the collar stand fnmi
the width of the collar desired
2.")
t<A'
DIAGRAM
;i4.
61
G2
DIAGRAM
25
PEAKED LAPEL TUXEDO.

The measurements
are as follows:
1>4 inches
9^ inches
Indentation
Scye depth
Waist length
length
Full
Overshouldcr
Blade
18>4 inches
13>4 inches
inches
Breast
40
inches
'SOi--^
inches
Waist
37
inches
Seat
43
inches
Strap
inches
1 '^
From A to B is the scye depth plus "4 inch C is

A to E is full length F is halfway between A and B
;
From C
to 2
is
from F to 2 and
I
is l-;4
inches;
to
J is
to
is
to
is
halfway between
6 inches
and F
and E.
E to 22 is JX the distance of from C to 2 draw a line

and shape the center of back; from 1 to H is 3/ breast; H to
the same; K is halfway between 1 and H; K to L is 3}4 inches;
locate Q; apply the blade measure from 1 to L which is 13^
J4 indentation
2 to 22
down from L
scjuare
waist length
;
and L; M to N is ly^ inches; square up from N to

is halfway between M and N;
22 to 7 is the same
from A to 8 is 6}i inches; 8 to 9 is 1 34
distance as from 1 to 4 draw a line from 4 to 7
inches; draw a line from A to 9; A to 10 is 'A breast; square up from 10 to locate 11
draw a line from j4 inch below 11 to O and shape the back.
Point
locate
O N
;
halfway between
is
to
is iV
breast
point 4
T is halfway between Q and .S point U is halfway

and L to V is the strap
from
T through U up; from A to
draw
to
Z
is
inch
less than the back
from
V
to
V
line
O;
a
inch; draw
shoulder
inch
at
Z
and
shape
the
and armscye.
shoulder
drop the
^g,
From Q to S
between L and I
measure plus
-)4
shoulder width
is J.j
point
waist;
a line
by
line
T-U
to I; \V to X is
draw a straight line from
from Y to X and shape the gorge; from Q to
and square down; this locates point G-1G.
From
inch
16 to 17
more than
is
yi breast;
now draw
to 23 is 1^4
li
breast;
is
-^ inch
a line from
the top width of the back;
24 to 25
t!
is
inches;
to
is
V
'/&
to
breast;
is
breast;
Vg
draw
a line
place the square to points
up thrcjugh
2;i
R-S
from 23 to 24
is
lj4 inches for the collar stand;
the width of the collar desired; shape the collar and lapel and front edge;
from 6 back to 15 is 2 inches; from 27 to 3 and 15 to 20 is the seat measure: 20 back
to 19 is 2 inches; square up from 19 to locate 18; draw a line from 18 through 20 down
From 18 to 21 is the same distance as 5 to 7 shape
and shape the side of forepart.
34 to 26
is
the bottom of forepart and finish.
DIAGRAM
25.
63
DIAGRAM
Some
seam
side
cutters imagine that
inches;
134
from 32
to 4 is
to
breast;
is
from
shown
the
same distance
4 to
in this
is JX
inch;
as
draw
to
a
to
is
N; draw
will
I/2
same
be
blade;
a line
straight line from
line as the
easier to
from
to
to
put
is
tn 7;
:")
;
now
diagram.
waist; S to 14 is 2'-j inches; point le't is 3 inches from the front

Q to S is
apply the waist measure from o to 2 and 14 to 18; apply the seat measure from
From
edge;
19 to
from
desired, proceed as follnws:
If this is
sha|)e the backpart as
now
the side seLini ui the Ijackpart lias the
of the forepart that the coat will ha\e a better line and
together.
from
if
26
'?>
and
'>
to 20;
is halfway between 5 and 18

draw a line from through 20
and place it ti> the side seam of the forejiart as shown on this
point
cut out the backpart
(i
(>
diagram and shape the front with the backpart.
DIAGRAM
27
Lay the backpart

If a higher back seam is desired, proceed as shown on this diagram.
inch,
and from O
or
and forepart together, shoulder to shoulder; add from 11 to
j4
jki
never
should
shoulder
seam
per
broken
line.
The
back
and
reshape
as
Z
the
same
to
the
proper
recei\
e
other
can
the
back
any
way,
because
in
this
way
only
increased
in
be
line at the neck.
65
Pi
66
DIAGRAM
28
FROCK COAT.
Tlie nicasnrcnients arc as fullows:
Indentation
ly^ inches
Scye depth
Natural waist lenj^tli
Fashinnable waist length
Strap
(J\-ersh(
mldcr
ITSg inches
v,s
inches
P.Iade
i;!
inches
\il)^
inclies
ilreast
38
inches
18)/.
inches
Waist
34}^ inches
\-l '/>
indies
!)
From A
to
able waist length;
square out from
tj,
is
the scye depth plus "4
halfway between
F, B, C, D and E.
is
'''''^'''
i*"
*-
and U
nalnr.al waist lennth
is
1)
fashion-
is
halfway between
and
F'
R is 3,4 inch, J 4 indentation; draw a straight line frcmi A through R to O;

1' j inches; j to 14 is
from 11 to
is y^ breast; I to
inch; K is halfJ is
to
way between H and I; K
L is 3l4 inches; stiuare down from L to locate Al appl\- the
blade measure from 11 to L which is K! inches and s(|uare up; N is halfway between 11 and
L; from N to O is lj4 inches; from A to 24 is the same distance as from 11 to
draw a
line from U to "^4.
From C
to
this locates 11
frnm A to U from A to
from J-^ inch below \V to P;
from Q to S is J^ breast; this may be increased or decreased according to style; square up
from S to E from E to 22 is
inches; sweep from 1 through 23 pivoting at 92; from'
to 23 is the same distance as from
to 22 pi\oting at 23 and shajie
to 22; sweep fnim
frdui Al to
is
the side of backpart, taking care that your line is regular and has no digs
to T is 6ys inches;
breast; square up from
From
is
\'
to
is
to locate
draw
IjA inches;
draw
a line
line
1 ;>-4
}4 waist
square
down from
4.
14
DIAGRAM
28.
67
iS
DIAGRAM
29
THREE BUTTON FROCK,

From X
to
is
]^
inches; point Z
is
(Continued)
lialfway l)etween
and
from
down from
square
"\'
;
to K is
abo\e the waist line
breast
shape
point
is Ij inch less than
breast
is lialfw :iy between
the sidehod_v as shown from
to
is halfway between L and j
point
draw a line from through up from A to W
M and
and L to T is the strap measure plus > inch draw a line from 7 to 1' from 7 to 2IJ is -j^; inch
and shape the shouhlei'
less than the back shoulder width; drop the shoulder -^.s inch at
from
to 2
is
inch
point
is
;!
'
1>
incli
1'.'
'i,
(i
"i
;j
(i
|.
i'^
.':!
and armseye.
Scpiare forwards from
!)
to
from
J-l;
I)
by
line
to Hi in this case
is
")-ri
li
fi-om
']
to
!l
is
'.,
draw
same as
breast;
breast; this g'lrge, the
a rounding' line
from
a sack coat,
may
in
accordance with style; from 7 to 8 is / l)reast; draw a line

from 8 to H) and shape the gorge; from i back to 27 is 2J4 inches where a fish is cut out
A
at the waist; wdiere no lish is cut out, the distance from 4 to 27 is to Ije l-}^^ inches.
inches smaller than the breast or more.
lish may be cut out in all coats where the wai^t is
e\'en 3 inches smaller than the breast, but where the waist is less than 2 inches smaller
to 27
than the breast, it is adxisable to lea\c the lish oiu, in which case the distance from
])e
raised
or lowered
in
would be only 1^4 inches.
X to R, Z to Y and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net

from
and shape the side seam and bottom of forep.nrt
sha|)c the l.ipel and front edge.
the s.'imc
l'"rom
;>
to
to
12
]'>
is
draw
II
to
a straight line
is
l.')
\yl
from
inches;
THE
SKIRT.
from 21) down to M is Jj indentation; this

^/^ inch always;
below the waistline. l)iagr;ims I!!) and 10 will show how the
T'lace the s(|uare lo where\er the inspring changes for either a swayback or a flat-hack.
dentation Climes and square down from Y.
("lO
point
up from
to 20,
may come aboxe
From Y
down from
;
or
to 25 is 9 inches;
22 to
is
34
'"'-"li
2.")
draw a line from 22 through

from 12 to 18 is the same distance
])oint in is 5s inch below point
shape the to]i
mark j-our buttonholes, shape off the lower jiart
to 26
is
IJ/^
inches;
niore than from S to 17
from 22 to E; draw a line from 18 to F.

Now
skirt and round it ^-g inch at 26.
the front of the skirt and finish.
'^
20
as
of
of
130)-
DIAGRAM
2'J.
G'J
DIAGRAM
After the hackpart
as follows:
lUt nut and the strap aiul civershouhlcr
is
elieckcd
olY.
proceed
riace the sidcbody on the forepart and see that the forepart an<l sidehody meet
at the breast line after
where the
is
30
tisli
is
they arc sewn together, also hollow the forepart a scant ^4 inch
placed, so that after the fish
shown on Diagram
31.
is
sewn together, the seams should run as
o
CO
<
I
Q
<a
71
DIAGRAM
Sliiiuld
i.iiic
sill
luldcT he Kjwer than
the- iitlier
32
iirdcecd as follows;
the
fmck coat
slmulil
always l:)e nieasuix-d and cut for the high shi mlder, as cxiilaiiied for sack coats, and the
change should be made on the low side.
If the difi'erence between one shoulder anil the
other is ^ inch, lower your sidebody from F to G J/2 inch and from D to
the same. Mo\e
point (I ot the sidebody up on a level with the forepart anil shorten the side of the forepart
from 1 to 1 t(.i correspond with the sidebody.
Reshape the sidel.)ody as per broken line.
!".
DIAGRAM
33
one side the change is made tlie same as in sack

After the pattern has been cut for the high side, copy the original pattern and
proceed as shown on this diagram.
Split the pattern as from A to the center of l)ackpart
In a case of the liody leaning o\er to
coats.
and from A to the front edge; overlap the forepart as from

and sidc1)ody froni A to C.
Notice:
after
which
This
to
B and overlap
the backpart
change should always be made on the sidebodv and backjiail together,

seam of the backpart and fill in slightly at the sides.
straiL;hlcn the center
73
CO
CO
<
o
Pi
<;
74
DIAGRAM
34
FIGURE WITH A FLAT BLADE AND A FULL CHEST.

The
iia'asurcinents arc
measure
is
inches,
I'ij/^
same
tlic
which
as in
jj inch smaller
is
with
'!',
(lia,L;i-ain
that the blade
liie c.\cei)tiuii
nnrmal.
than
S(jnarc ilnwn ami nut iVdm A.
A
A and
l^"|-(ini
between
iM'om
to
is J/j
square
from
t(_)
breast;
down
(i
1!;
to
is
):f
to
J is
to 8 wliich
j,/.
inches;
this h nates
\''\j
is
finni
in
11
(I
.s
F'rom 2 to
is
breast
inches;
to
L'
\'
t(j
locate \V
G-y^
is
'
is
'
_.
and
square up from
i.s
thrnus^h K
is
waist;
_.
tn
apply
ihaw
line
is
frcmi II
inches;
'-'ly^
Idadc measure
point 5
'.I;
frnm
line
from
I,
tlu'
ivvu)
from 34
a line
1'",
i,
this locates 11;
inches:
draw
draw
(his lucates
1)4
inches;
and
II
inches and -([uarc up and dnw n
and -1; puiiit

is halfway between
up; point N is halfway between II anil
N tn U
distance of from 8 to L; draw a line fri^m II to 2.
halfway between
is
i\
fnim
-(|uare nut
I'';
F is halfway
B and C.
natural waist length;
is
C'
halfway between A and
is
inch; draw a slraiglit line from
L;
froiu
way between
the scye depth plus j4 ii^h
is
1!
Ti
In
:i
is
half-
througli G
is
j/2
the
to U; from 2 to
below \V to I^ and
i"^'l>
finish the coat as usual.
DIAGRAM
35
FIGURE WITH A LARGE BLADE AND A FLAT CHES T.

The nieasui'emcnts
ceiition
for this cnat are the s:une as in the
the blade
that
measurement
i--
bl'/.
piexious diagram with the ex-
which makes
inches,
'
it
'^
larcer than
inch
normal.
S(|uare diiwn and out from
From A
y\.
is b.ilfway between
and B; (i is halfway between /\ and U s(juare nut fmm (I, V, B and C; this locates
II; from H to I is JX full breast; I to j is ) '/> inches; J tn If is ji inch; K is halfway between Id and I from K to 8 is 3'S inches; squ ire down from 8 to locate 9; from 9 to 4 is J/^
waist; apply the blade measure from Id to L wdiich is i;!'^ inches and square up and down;
point 5 is half\\a\- between M and
point G is halfway between L and
this locates
G
line
draw
a
from
5
through
up.
J
to
is
the scye depth plus
I4
inch;
length;
wai'^t
is
1'"
From A
to
to 2
is
yi the distance of 8 to L. in this case
inches;
I'
is
from
\'
to locate
draw
a line fr(jm 2 tn
1
J.
draw a line from U to A; from

draw a line fmni J4 mi:\\ bclnw
F and
inch; from 2 to
2
to
to
is
P and shape
resluqie the center as per Ijrnken line.
is
lireast
6^
inches;
square up
the Ijack
now
7r)
<
''<
DIAGRAM
36
THREE-BUTTON FROCK.
The
measurcmc'iits are as Inllows;
Scye deplli
Waist length
{"ashionahle waist
len.L;tii
length'
l*"ull
(Jxersliuulder
17^^ inehes
inches
l.'i
inches
Ilsj4
inches
Bhide
Breast
.'ifS
inches
inches
Waist
IJO
inches
as
folluws;
inche-;
I'." J
This
the kind
is
l'"nini
In
waist length:
I'^roin
t(i
11
halfway between II an<l

the blade measure fruni
andl,; frc im N to (J is
1
fri
nn
(i,
h',
tci
1
is
'/<
to
is
made
Id
inches
draw
a line
hVeast
fri lui
tn
waixt length;
and
L'>
L'
tu
fashii nialile
is
L)
hallway hetw ecu
is
(i
!'_.
thiuugh R tn
inches;
down
to
'21 is
same distance
the
<J
In
II
and sipiare duwn;

is
'4
inch;
M;
1\
to locate
is
halfway between
fi'iini
is ]'>
is
square
inches;
is Si-/,
frcjm
(' is
1)
L which
11
J/:^
inch;
'.|
halfway lictween
and \i.
is
C'.
I!,
iudentatiou
'j
is
fmui
this Idcates II;
nnr regular, and
stunt
neilhci
is
depth plus
length;
full
is
I'',
square dut fruui
1'";
that
fmin A.
mit
the sc\
i>
1!
a cnal
cif
duwn and
S(|nare
a line
indies
;!S
Strap
and
!i>8
Ki' j
as from
II
to
is
apply
II
draw
to 2-k
T to U is I;! inches; draw a line from A to V from A

clraw a line from '4 inch below W to
up from \' to lo:ate
V: from O to S is % breast; square dow u from S and shape back; from X to Y is 1J4 inches;
is .'4 inch; from () to K is
breast; point 20 is halfway between Y and IM
from T to
shape the sidebody.
is '2 inch above the waist line
draw a line from K through '.'n poiut
to
I'rom
\'
is
to
is f;.\s
breast;
'.,
inches;
s(|uare
1':;
'i
'!
fnun 1; this locates 11; from II to 12 is 'S

[loint
is halfway between
inch less than U, breast; ])oint 5 is halfway lietween W and
is
the strap measure
and L to
L and J; draw a line from 5 through u|i; from A to
'33
is ^ inch less than "W to 1'; dro]i the
plus .54 inch; draw a line fnmi 7 to P; from T to
square forwards from 7 by
shoulder -j^ inch at 2?> and shape the shoulder and armscye
line ri-(>
from 7 to
draw a rounding line from to 11 make the distance from
is % lu'east
From
.M to 4 is
w'aist
s(|uare d<iwn
(i
<i
'1
!l
I)
according to style;
to 10
From
back
')
to 27 in this case
is 1'4'
inches
shape the gorge.
7 to 8 is )s breast;
;
there being no hsh cut out in this coat, there-
and suppress the
makeup; apply the waist measure Irom X to R, 27 to Y

between
Z
and 21; shajie the side of forepart; draw a line from
balance
o to 12;
is
fore,
it
re(iuires
l-iito
l.j
ij
inch
Ij/^
for
less
inches;
4 to K!
is
the same.
THE
Sipiare
down from Y; from Y
from 22 through 20 down;

is
the
same distance
point 3;
as 22 to
shape the top of
to
2.")
from 22 to
i:i;
is 9
lH is
SKIRT.
inches;
I4
inch
2.'J
ilraw a line from
skirt, front e<lge
and
to
2(i
is
'
more than from S
finish.
10
to
18;
draw a line
from 12 to IS
? i'l^^'i below
inches;
to 17;
point 16
is
l)IA(iRAM
:!(i.
77
^s
DIAGRAM
37
THREE-BUTTON SACK.
We
hear cutters say mir trade
(iflen
with large chests and
small
a college trade,
is
young
The following diagrams
waists.
will
men
of cutting will priMhicc a cnat fur the athlete with a large lireasl
method
The measurements
are
as
of athletic build
how
sliow
and
the
same
a small waist.
follows:
Indentation
inches
Ovcrshonldcr
l7-j4
inches
Scye depth
'^-ji
inclies
Pdade
13
inches
Waist length
17
inches
IJreast
38
inches
Full length
30
inches
Waist
33
inches
Strap
12^4
inches
Scat
/lO
inches
Square down and out

P'rom
to
of
to
.\
frnni
.\.
the scye depth plus
is
'4
halfway between
square out finm G, B, C, I) and ]i.
full
is
From C
to
length;
to 2
is
h'
is
li
.md
draw
inch;
a line
from
is
(i
11;
to
IJ
G inches;
is
A and
halfway between
F;
from F to 23 is y, tlie distance

and 3 to 22 and shape the center
inch;
!"
wai^t k-iiglh,
is
y, the indentation, iu this case
in this case }i
2,
iiu
to 3
to J is >4
to I is \y inches;
!1
1; from ] to H is y, breast;
halfway between 1 and 11; K to L is 3!/ inches; square down from L to locate
to I- which is 13 inches and s(piare up.
apply the l)Iade measure from
of back;
inch;
this locates
is
(J;
an<l L; from M to N is 1^ inches; square up from N

is halfway between
1^
from 22 to 7 is
A
point 4 i> halfway between 1\1 and N
is
breast
from
to
N
O
to
from
is
G-)4 inches;
S
from
A
to
4
7
8
draw
line
from
1
to
a
the same distance as
4
from
is
breast;
square
from
to
10
up
A
line
from
A
to
9;
to 9 is IJ/, inches; draw a
and shape the back.
10 to locate 11; draw a line from 3/4 inch below 11 to
Point
Al
to locate
,'1',
Add
an extra ji inch
at 19;
from
to S
is
waist, in this case 8 inches;
Js
halfway between L and
point
T
T
halfway between Q and S; point U is

through U up; from A to 11 and L to V is the strap measure plus J4 inch; draw a line
droji the shoulder ji^ inch at Z and
from V to O from V to Z is y^ inch less than II to
shape the shoulder and armscye.
is
<
Square forwards from V by line T-U from \' to

distance from \V to X to suit the style; from \" Uj Y
;
draw
I;
line
from
breast plus yi inch; make the

breast; shape the gorge; from
\\' is Va
is
Vg,
from R through S; from S to

by line R-S this locates point 6
S to 14 is 2>j niches; apply the waist measure from 5
and 16; from
and 24; apply the seat measure from 19 to
to 2 and 14 to 24; point 18 is halfway between
3 and 15 to 20; draw a line from 18 through 20 and shape the side of forepart; this leaves
the distance between 18 and 24 to be suppressed.
13
to
is
the indentation, in this case
inch;
is 1
J to 12 is the same;
6 to 15 is 3 inches;
inch
square
draw
a line
down from
13
.">
Cut out an under-arm

front fish
about
if
desired.
fish
which may be taken out
a little larger
In cutting a front fish proceed as follows:
inch above the pocket;
now
cut your front
fish,
which
than usual, and also a
start the
is
under-arm
placed about
fish
inch from
the front of the pocket to strike about the center of the brea.st pocket; cut the pocket open
on a line parallel with the
from the front fish to the side fish and take out a small
under-arm
fish
as
shown
one seam at the front fish and the V that is

take up the other seam and make the upper and lower edge
this will take
cut out in the pocket will
ofif
of the pocket correspond.
From
18 to 21
is
edge, bottom of forepart and finish.

,
IH to 17
is
>^ breast;
shape the front
DIAGRAM
70
so
DIAGRAMS
38
AND
39
FROCK COAT FOR A LARGE BRFAST. SMALL WAIST & SLIGHTLY SWAY-BACK.
This coat
cut
is
same measurements as the sack Cdat with the cxceptinu
the
i)y
Fashii )nal)le waist lenj^th
Square thiwu and mit
From A
is
able waist length;
V.
and
l'
I'mni
thrnugh
Ij,^
to
In
down frnm L
distance as
1)
is
1'.;
is
(1
fashion-
is
halfway l)etween
-j-j
tn
N is
fmm
s(|uare up;
C,
?>,
is
is
(j
t(i
inches;
inches
inclu's
'j tlie indentatidii, in tliis case

inch; draw a sti-aight line from A
and s(|uarc dnwn; this locates II; from 11 tn I is l< lireast
In
is
inch; i\ i> halfway between 11 and
II is
K tn L is :!'/. inches; square
Incate M; apiil}' the blade measure from 11 tn 1. which is \'A inches and
halfway between 11 and L; N to O is 1^ inches; from A tn
is tlie same
In
(_'
Iv
1"".
(1,
inch;
'4
halfway between A am!

and K.
length;
full
is
^^Va
;!S
I'nim A.
scye dejith phis
tlie
square nut from
is
leni^th
l''uil
thai
-.'I
In
II
ilraw a line
tn?l.
()
I'rnni
inches; draw a line from A tn U; from A In

j/^
draw a line from 34 'ii*-"'i below VV to 1';
\V
frnm O to S is '/^ breast; square dnwn frnm S and shai)e the back; fmm Al tn 1 is J/ waist;
frnm II tn \2 is y, inch less than /i breast; from 4 back to
to locate
square down from
tn
is the waist measure net; point Y is halfway
2T is 2J4 inches; from X to R and
pnint
is halfway between Y and M.
s{|uare dnwn frnm \'
between X and
Frnm A
is
!(,
in
inches;
is (i.)s
breast; square up frnm
tn
is
From
() tn
'/.
is
I'i
breast;
draw
inch;
siiniilder
inch
'.s
Frnni
and
:i\
II
tn
is
inch abn\e the waist line;
'/>
(1
'i.'l
line
is
I.-)
:!
l)y line
frnni
fmm
"i-li
thrnugh
from
tn
It
In
and shape
10
1^4 inches; 4 to Fi
as the distance
is
is
!i
plus
breast
'.,
J4
inch;
the depth nf the gorge desired;
Id is
same ;imnunt
the
pnint
II
!>
draw
inch;
vi
pnint
"i
Square forwards frnm 7

tn II;
rounding tine frnm
breast;
is
'i
is
"i
at
tn
is halfway between L
halfway between M and I;
is the strap measure
tn
llimugh
1
up; fr(Mii A tn
and L
'
.';!
1';
In 1'; di'np the
frnm T tn
line fmni
to
is -Jx incli less than
and shape the slmnldcr and armscve.
shape tlie sidelmdv;

and I; draw a line frnm
'
".'11
pnint
plus
'.'1
:^'.i
tn Incate
tlie
the same;
is
a
j,s
iinw suppress the waist l)etwccn
vJS
gorge.
l)etweeii
draw
tn S
is
and
and
'!'>
linisli
the up[ier part
of tiie cnat.
THE
In this case the skirt
".')
frnm
if
to
;!li
is
!.l
inches;
case
tn
:ii)
as follows;
draw
inch;
:!i
is
'
_>
frnm
inches;
tn
JM
a line
frnm
draw
this
it
wnuld produce pnint

wnuld gi\e \-nu line
I'rom 22 to
to X]
and
waist line tn sipuire from;
draw
skirt as
:!:>
a line
is
'4
fmiu
slinwn and
2.j
:12
2.")
;
2ii
is
I'l inches;
an.l in that case the skirt
inch
.'l-'l
tn
[)lace
more than irom S
tn S; jjnint
Iniish.
1(1
is
'!0
line
in
inch always;
fnim
V and square down
[o
fmm
22 through
the fnllnwing
;^)l
1!)
down;
M-Y
manner;
the square to Al-^" ami square
to
to oO
down;
if ynu drew the line frnm 22 through

wnuld ha\e less spring than it has nnw.
to 17
5s inch
'1
is
III
the indentation had been nnrnial, the skirt would be cut
wniili] be the natural
2(1
made
is
'j indeiitati(_iii, in this
is
SKIRT.
12 tn 18
same distance
as 22
shajie the friuit
edge
the
is
belnw pniiu
:1
DIAGRAM
38.
DIAGRAM
;il)
81
S3
DIAGRAM
FROCK COAT
This coat
is
the same as
19 to 20
is 3/2
20-Y and square down;

skirt
flat
and the
to 25
is
the exception that the indenta-
skirt is cut as follows:
case
^/^
inches;
inch;
25 to 26
from
place the
is
to 19
is J^
square to points
IjA inches;
finish
your
as usual.
The normal
is
is
indentation, in thi
from
(Continued)
shown on diagram 39 with
tion is 1 incli, therefore the seat
inch always;
40
indentation
no need to go up-from
is
lyj inches, therefore
to 19,
.)4
when
the indentation
inch because the normal line
is
is
normal, there
the waist
line.
DIAGRAM
40.
83
84
DIAGRAM
41
THREE-BUTTON FROCK FOR STOUT FIGURE.

The measurements
are as follows:
1^
9^
inches
Strap
13
inches
inches
18^
inches
16^
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
13>-j
inches
Breast
40
inches
Waist
40
inches
Indentation
Scye depth
Waist length
Fashionable waist length
Full length according to style
18J/ inches
From
and F
From C
down;
to
the scye depth plus
is
inch
is
natural waist length
halfway between
square out from G, F, B, C, D and E.
waist length
to
this locates
length
full
is
is
1/2
is
indentation
H; from
to
draw a
is
halfway between H and L; from N to O

draw a line from O to 84.
as from H to O
is
and B
straight line from
breast;
and I
square up from 14; K is halfway between
to
apply the blade measure from
L to locate
to J
to
is
]^
is
through
inches;
fashionable
is
halfway between
R to Q
and square
J to 14 is }i inch;
K L is S'^ inches; square down from

L which is 13^/^ inches and square up N
;
lj4 inches; from
is
to 24
same distance
the
is
From A
is Vb
from
to S
is
from A to
is 6^ inches
T to U is V/i inches draw a line from A to
to P
draw a line from }i inch below
square up from V to locate
square down from S and shape the back.
breast
to
breast
THE SIDEBODY
from O to 36 is A breast; point Z
shape the sidepoint 3 is yi inch above the waist line
is halfway between Y and M
to 4 is ^ waist; square down from 4; this locates 11; from 11 to
body as shown; from
12 is y2 inch less than % breast; 12 to 34 is, 3,^ inch; draw a line from 3 to 34; now
draw a straight line from 22 to 12 point 35 is where the two lines cross cut out a small
V at 35 hollow the waist seam slightly from 3 to 35 as shown in this diagram.
F>om X
to
is
from
1>4 inches;
to 2
is
^4 inch;
is cut out and this is what produces

halfway between M and 4; point 6 is halfway
and L to 7 is the strap
between L and J; draw a line from 5 through G up; from A to
to P
inch less than
measure plus J4 inch draw a line from 7 to P from 7 to 23 is
23 to 38 is }i inch
In cutting out this coat, the space between 12 and 34
the fulness over the stomach;
point 5
is
Square forwards from 7 by line 5-(5, also square forwards from 6 by the same line
draw
breast
from 7 to 9 is % breast 9 to 10 is the same from 7 to 8 is
a line from 8 through 10 and shape the gorge; from 4 back to 27 is 1% inches; from Z to
add from 37
shape the side of forepart
Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net
to 15, 1J4 inches and from 4 to 13 the same and shape the front edge.
this locates 37
THE SKIRT
Square down from Y; from Y to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26 is 1>4 inches; draw a line
from 22 through 26 down from 22 to 32 is J^ inch more than from S to 17 from 34 to 18
is the same distance as 22 to 32; draw a line from 32 to 18; point 16 is yg, inch below point
inch at 26.
3
shape the skirt and finish, rounding the latter
;
The checking
off of the strap
in ihf frock coats as in all
and the over shoulder measure plus
other coats.
inch should be done
17
DIAGRAM
41.
32
85
8G
DIAGRAM
42
THREE BUTTON FROCK FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE

The measurements
are as follows
Indentation
!]/>
inches
1)^ inches
Scye depth
inches
1?
Natural waist length
18^ inches
Full length, whatever the style calls for.
down and
Scjuare
is
able waist length;
P""rom
to
is
to locate
-yi
to (J
From A
draw
to
4"^
inches
Waist
i-j
inches
F, B, C,
inch or }j the indentation

to I is i/< breast;
draw
is halfway between H and

and E.
K
;
halfway between
is
from
("i,
H; from
square up from 14;
from
inches
Q;
to
inches
11
to
1!J
Blade
Breast
is fashionC is natural waist length

the scye depth plus y^ inch
and B G is halfway between
is full length; F is halfway between
and F; square out from
this locates
13 '^ inches
(,)\ersliiiulder
out from A.
I''rom
Strap
a straight line
to J
is
l^^ inches;
I;
to
to L is 3^^.
L which is 14
and L; N to O is 1J4 inches; from

from O to 24.
to 24
from
iV
inches;
through
inch;
square
down
J to 14
is
inches and square up
is
a line
is (ifs
inches
to
is
inches
;54
draw
a line
from
to
from
to
inch below
to P
square up from V to locate W" draw a line from
square down from S and shape the back. This being a corpulent
34 breast
from
square down from 4
to 4 is J^ waist
coat, the waist suppression is made as follows
this locates 11; from 11 to 13 is 14 inch less than H breast; 12 to 34 is )4 inch; from 4
is
from
breast
to S
is
back to 27 is 1^4 inches; from

nothing to come out at Z.
to
R and
27 to
is
the waist measure net;
this leaves
Square down from Y; from 1 to 2 is .;4 inch; point Z is halfway Ijetween Y and M:
from O to 36 is A breast; draw a line from 36 to Z; point 3 is yi inch aljove the waist line:
shape the sidebody with a slight hollow from 22 to 3, also draw a line from 3 to 34; now
draw a straight line from 22 through 12; this locates 35; cut out a small V at 35; shape the
bottom of the forepart the same as shown on diagram 41.
and 4; point 6 is halfway between L and J; draw a line

Point 5 is halfway between
and L tn 7 is the stra]) measure plus ^/\ inch; draw a line
from 5 through 6 up; from A to
lower the shoulder ;!^ inch at 23
to P
from 7 to P from 7 to 23 is ys inch less than from
and shape the slioulder and armscye.
Square forwards from 7 by line 5-6 also square forwards from 6 by the same line; this
to 37; from 9 to 10 is the
locates 37; from 7 to 9 is % breast; draw a rounding line from
lireast
from
8 thrcjugh 10 and shape
draw a line
depth of the gorge desired; 7 to 8 is %
skirt
The
is made in the same
the gorge; from 37 to 15 is 1J4 inches; 4 to 13 is the same.
on
about
inch or the
manner as shown in diagram 41 with the exception that at 31 add
amount that the front part and sidebody o\'erlap at 3.
fl
DIAGRAM
42.
s?
88
DIAGRAM
43
ENGLISH WALKING FROCK WITH SACK FRONT

The
nieasureinents are as follows
Indentation
12f4 inches
18
inches
Strap
>4 inches
Scye depth
9J^ inches
Wyi inches
Overslioulder
Blade
i'iji
inches
18^4 inches
Breast
-VJ
inches
Full length
37
inches
Waist
Sbyi inches
From A
to
and F
the scye depth plus J4
is
able waist length;
is full
square out from G. F,
From C
to
is
1/2
indentation
H; from
square down; this locates
K is
'"^''i
'
is
halfway between
B, C, D and E.
length;
is
draw
to
a straight
is
and B;
from
line
(i
is
,D
fashion-
through
to
and
to J is IJ/2 inches; J to 14 is
Syi inches; s'quare down from L to locate
yi breast;
halfway between H and I K to L is

M apply the blade measure from H to L which is 13J4 inches and square up N
between H and L; N to O is 1J4 inches; A to 24 is the same distance as from
inch
is
halfway between
is
halfway
to
A to is
is 1J4 inches; draw a line from A to
to T is 6^, inches; T to
inch
below
P Q to
draw
line
from
to
a
square
from
to.
locate
up
V
'A breast;
J4
i/^ breast;
is
inches;
to
the
back;
X
to
Y
1
2 is
from
and
shape
square down
S
S is
1J4
point
is
inch
above
and
3
A
halfway
between
Y
inch
O to is breast point Z is
J^
From A
than
the waist line
From
shape the sidebody as shown.
down from 4; this locates 11; from 11 to 12 is '}4 inch

and 4 point 6 is halfway between L
halfway between
and L to 7 is the strap measure plus -}i
and J draw a line from 5 through Gup; A to
inch
draw a line from 7 to P 7 to 23 is
square forwards
drop the shoulder }i inch at 23 and shape the shoulder and armscye
draw a rounding line from 9 to
inch
7 to 9 is '4 breast plus
from 7 by line 5-6
14; 9 to 10 is the depth of the gorge desired; 7 to 8 is J^ breast; draw a line from 8 to
10 and shape the gorge; 14 to 15 is 1% inches; 4 to 13 is the same; 4 back to 27 is 3J4
inches; Z to Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net shape the side of forepart
less
to 4
is J/2
breast
waist; square
point 5
is
draw
a line
from
3 to 12;
this locates K!.
THE SKIRT
Square down from Y to 25, 9 inches; 25 to 26 is 1>4 inches; draw a line from 22
12 to 18 is the same disinch more than from S to 17
through 26 down; 22 to 19 is
tance as S to 17 shape the skirt from 22 to 16
cut out a fish at 16; leave the front and
skirt whole and finish.
DIAGRAM
43.
8!)
:'0
DIAGRAM
44
SINGLE-BREASTED STRAIGHT-FRONT FROCK

The measurements
are as follows
;-
Indentation
IJ/^
inches
Strap
13
Scye depth
9^
inches
Overshonlder
Blade
1834 inches
13J-2 inches
Breast
40
inches
Waist
37
inches
Waist length
17
18}^ inches
Full length, whatever
is
inches
desired.
inches
From A
to
the scye depth plus 34 inch; C is natural waist length; D is fashionis full length; F is halfway between A and B;
G is halfway between
is
able waist length;
and F; scjuare out from G,
F, B, C.
and E.
From C to R is 34 indentation; draw a line from A through R to Q and square down;

inch; K is halfway between H
from H to I is 34 breast; I to J is I34 inches; J to 14 is
apply the lilade measure
and I Iv to L is 3^ inches sqtiare down from L to locate
from H to L which is I334 inches and square up N is halfway between H and L N to O
is 134 inches; from A to 24 is the same distance as from H to O
from A to U A to \'
draw a line from '4 mch below ^\' to P O
square up from V t(_i locate
is /i breast
to S is 34 breast; square down from S and shape the back; X to Y is 1 34 inches; square
breast point Z is halfway between Y and M
down from Y 1 to 2 is J4 i'T-'h O to K is
point 3 is 34 inch above the waist line shape the sidebody.
From A
to
6%
is
inches;
to
is
\\'
inches;
13-4
draw
a line
i'if
from 11 to 12 is 34 inch
square down from 4; this locates 11
halfway between
and 4; point 6 is halfway between L and
and L to 7 is the strap measure plus
draw a line from 5 through 6 up from A to
J
drop
draw a line from 7 to P 7 to 23 is
)4 inch
square forwards from 7
inch at 23 and shape tlie shoulder and armscye
the shoulder
by line 5-6; 7 to D is /^ breast plus 34 inch; draw a rounding line from 9 to 14; from 9 to
7 to 8 is 3/^ breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge; 14 to 15
10 is Ve brea.st
is 134 inches; 4 to 13 is the same; place the straight edge to line 4-12 and make a mark at 29.
From
less
than
Vb
to 4
is
34 waist;
breast; point 5
is
and backwards pivoting at 29; shape the bottom of lorepart

from 3 hollowing it slightly into the sweep at 12; from 4 back to 27 is 234 inches; Z to
shape the side of forepart.
Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net
Sweep from
12 forwards
THE SKIRT
If a close-titting skirt is desired,
the skirt
line
9
shown here
is
from 20 into the sweep
inches;
is
should be made the same as
at 12
I34 inches;
square
draw
is
down from
a line
made
in the
as follows;
cutaway frock;
draw a straight
from 20
20 by that line
from 20 through 26 down.
;
to 25
more than from S to 17 12 to 28 is the same distance

square down from the front edge by the waist line; .shape the bottom of
From
to 18;
25 to 2G
it
a slightly draped skirt and
20 to 18
is
34 inch
and round the side ^^ inch
at 26.
is
as 20
skirt
DIAGRAM
14
01
92
DIAGRAM
45
SINGLE-BREASTED STRAIGHT-FRONT FROCK FOR A STOUT FIGURE

The measurements
follows:
are as
Indentation
I3/2
inches
Strap
13y^ inches
Scye depth
9^
inches
19
17
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
14
inches
Fashionaljle waist length
183/2
inches
Breast
42
inches
Waist
42
inches
Full length according to style.
inches
From
waist length
to
is
the scye depth plus
is full
length
F; square out from G, F, B, C,
inch
is
halfway between
and E.
is
and B
is
fashionable
is
halfway between
and
R to Q and square down;

from H to I is J4 breast; I to J is 1^ inches; J to 14 is -% inch; square up from 14; K is
halfway between H and I K to L is Syi inches square down from L to locate
apply
N is halfway between H
the blade measure from H to L which is 14 inches and square up
and L; N to O is 1^4 inches; from A to 24 is the same distance as from H to O draw
From C
to
is
1/2
indentation; draw a line from
through
a line
From
breast
Vb
to S
is
square
from
to
to 24.
is
down from
between
From
6^
inches
to
is
1^
inches
draw
a line from
A to U A
and
from
to 2
point 3
is
is
3^ inch
inch
to
above the waist
is
line
breast
halfway
V
;
is
1^
inches;
is
halfway
shape the sidebody.
to 4 is J^ waist; square down from 4; this locates 11; from 11 to 12 is yi

and 4; point
Vb breast; 12 to 15 is }i inch; point 5 is halfway between
between L and J draw a line from 5 through 6 up from
to
and L to 7
is
W to
point 22
inch less than

6 is
to
draw a line from

inch below
breast; square down from S and shape the back; from X to Y is
than the back shoulder width
inch;
draw
a line
drop the shoulder
from
7 to
inch at
from 7 to 23 is
inch less
23 and shape the shoulder and
;
armscye.
Square forwards from 7 by line 5-6, also square forwards from 6 by the same line this
from 6 to 9 is Vb breast; draw a rounding line from 9 to 32; from 9 to 10 is
draw a line from 8 through 10 and shape the gorge 32 to
7 to 8 is ^/^ breast
Vb breast
19 is 134 inches; 4 to 31 is the same; shape the front edge from 19 through 31; from 4
back to 27 is 1% inches; 22 to Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net; shape the
;
locates 32;
side of forepart.
Now draw a line from 3 to 15 also draw a straight line from 20 to 12 point 16
two lines cross; cut out a small V at 16 place the straight edge to points
make a mark at 29; from 12 back to 30 is 2^4 inches; sweep from 30 forwards to
;
the
is
where
and
12-4
13 pivot-
ing at 29; shape the bottom of forepart hollowing the line slightly between 3-16.
THE SKIRT
Place the square to line 20-16 and square
IJ/2
inches;
draw
a line from
2ii
down
to 25;
20 to 25
through 26 down; from 20 to 18
is
is 9
inches; 25 to 26
is
inch more than from
S to 17 from 13 to 28 is the same distance as 20 to 18; square down from 13 by the waist
inch rounding at 26.
In cutting out this skirt,
line; shape the bottom of skirt and add
there is nothing taken out between 12 and 15; the skirt is cut straight through from 20 to
;
16,
30 and 12 to 13.
28
DIAGRAM
45
93
!U
DIAGRAM
46
CLERGYMAN'S STRAIGHT-FRONT FROCK

The measurements
are as follows:
Strap
Oversh( lulder
V^}^ inches
18
inches
Blade
13%
inches
inches
Breast
39
inches
Full length, 40 inches or according to style
Waist
3."i><
inches
inches
Indentation
IJ/2
Scye depth
9>^ inches
Scjuare
down and
From A
to
".
16^4 inches
18>1.
out from A.
the scye depth plus
is
3/4
incli;
is
From C to R is >4 indentation

down; from H to I is y, breast;
between H and I
measure from H
to
From A
to
to J
to
154 inches;
is
draw
and B
a straight line from
IjA inches;
is
is Gyg,
to 24
inches
same distance as
the
is
to
is
lyi inches
to
draw
is
is
fashion-
is
halfway between
through
J to
square down from L

to L is 3% inches
L which is 13J4 inches and square up; N
E is full length F is halfway between

able waist length
and F; square out from G, F, B, C, D and E.
to
and square
is halfway
inch;
apply the blade

halfway between H and L;
to locate
is
a line from
to
to
from % inch below \V to P O

to S is }i breast; square down from S and shape the back; from X to Y is 1J4 inches;
square down from Y; from 1 to 2 is }i inch; O to K is A breast; point 22 is halfway between Y and M 34 is }4 inch above the waist line shape the side body.
breast
'/,
is
square up from
to locate
draw
to 36 is
From
a line
waist
square
down from
this locates
36;
11;
11
to
12
is
j',
inch
and 36; point 6 is halfway between L and

less than Vb breast; point 5 is halfway between
from
to
and L to 7 is the strap measure plus .}4
A
draw a line from 5 through 6 u])
I
23
is
less than the back shoulder width
7
to
inch
draw a line from 7 to P from
inch
of the
from 7 to is
from
7 by line 5-6
shape the shoulder and armscye square forwards
and
36
neck size plus )4 inch draw a line from 9 through 14
).'.
From
9 to 10 is Ih breast;
7 to 8 is >^
from
same; now add to the right front from 30
same shape the front edge from 36 back
27 to 21 is the waist measure net; shape
the gorge;
now add
draw
a line from
to 27 is 254 inches
to
and shape
10
14 to 32 and 36 to 35 the
32 to 19 and 35 to 31 the
29, Ij/i inches;
to
breast;
10 to 30, >4 inch;
for the left front
from 22 to Y,
to
and
the side and bottom of forepart.
THE SKIRT
follows: from Y to 25 is 9 inches; 25
20
through
26 down; 20 to 18 is % inch more than
from
to 26 is
distance
as
20
to
same
18; point 3 is ^ inch below 34; shape
is
the
28
from S to 17; 12 to
26.
inch
at
it
rounding
the skirt and finish,
ys,
If a slightly flaring skirt
This coat may also be used for a Knights Templar coat.
shown
on
44.
diagram
made
as
is desired, the skirt may be
If a close-fitting skirt is desired, proceed as
iy2 inches;
draw a
line
THE COLLAR
The
standing collar
is
made
as follows:
draw
a line
from 10 through 7;
from 10 to 16
of which
J-S
into the
from
collar
16
the
Shape
would be iy%, the distance from
of
coUar
the
heighth
is
the
to
15
16
that
line;
from
Hi
to
by
gorge and square up from
c(_illar
as
shown.
desired plus two seams; shape the
is
the shirt collar size plus
inch,
10 to 16
1
-"i
i.
e.,
if
the collar size
would be
85^.
is
15>4 inches,
95
)A
dia(;k.\ai
iG
96
DIAGRAM
47
CASSOCK
The meaburements
are as follows
Scye depth
inches
Strajj
l^yi inches
17
inches
17^
inches
1(SJ{,
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
13
inches
Full length
50
inches
Breast
38
inches
(These coats are supposed to rearb ilonn
to the feeti.
Waist
H^/2 inches
'J}i
From
A to B
waist length
is
the scye depth plus ^4 inch
length
is full
is
is
halfway between
and E.
and B
fashionable
is
halfway between
is
and
and from y to
breast
E from H to I is
I to J is IJ/2 inches
^ inch K is halfway between
J to 14
H and I K to L is 3}i inches square down from L to locate M apply the blade measure
from H to L which is 13 inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O is 1^
inches; A to 24 is the same distance as from H to O; draw a line from O to 24.
From C
to
is
inch
1/2
through
is
to
is
6}i inches;
to
From A
draw
to
to locate
Y
Y
and
lyi inches;
is
draw
a line
from
draw
to
U A
;
to
is
a line from J4 inch below

to P; from
to S is 3J4 inches; place the straight edge to points A-S and draw a line through to 17;
square down from Y; from 1 to 2 is }^ inch;
shape the back; from
to
is 1J4 inches
breast;
square up from
point Z
is
halfway between
point 3 is J4 inch above the waistline; shape the side-
body.
From
to 4 is
J-^
waist;
scpiare
down from
4;
this locates 11;
from
11
to 12 is ^4
draw a straight line from 12 through 3; point 5 is halfway between

M and 4; point 6 is halfway between L and J; draw a line from 5 through 6 up; from A to
7 to 23 is % inch
\V and L to 7 is the strap measure plus j-^ inch draw a line from 7 to P
inch less than
breast;
less
than the back shoulder width
drop the shoulder
inch at 23 and shape the shoulder
and armscye.
Square forwards from 7 by line 5-6 from 7 to 9 is >^ of the collar size worn plus ^ inch
from 9 to 10 is Ye breast; 7 to 8 is J/^ breast; draw a
a rounding line from 9 to 14
line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge; now add for the left front from 10 to 29, yi inch;
14 to 15 and 4 to 13 the same; for the right front add from 29 to 30, IJ/2 inches and from
13 to 36 the same; square down from 13 and 36 by the waistline.
;
draw
From 4 to 27 is 2 inches; from Z to Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net:

22 is
shape the side of forepart, cutting out a small V in what will be the skirt as shown
about 1J4 inches below 3; now place the square to line Y-12 and square down to 25; from
Y to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26 is lyi inches; draw a line from Y through 26 down; Y to 18
shape the Ijottom.
12 to 28 is the same distance as 19 to 18
is 14 inc-h more than from S to 17
;
add on to the back as from Q to 23 and E to 34, 41/2 to 5 inches also add from S
and
from 17 to 32 the same amount as has been added from Q to 33 add from Y to 1(>
to 31
These
amount
as has been added from S to 13, all the way down the same.
the same
side.
inverted
one
on
each
into
three
center
and
plaits,
one
in
the
additions are to be made up
Now
THE COLLAR
Draw
a straight line
from 10 through 7; the length of the collar should be IJ^

shape the collar as usual.
larger than the shirt collar;
sizes
6a()-i3'
DIAGRAM
47
97
''^<
DIAGRAM
48
CLERGYMAN'S STRAIGHT-FRONT SACK

'J'his
coat
is
The measurements
Scye depth
Waist length
Full length
Strap
and not too shapely.
to be easy
are as follows
Overshoulder
F'rom
is full
:.
down and
.Square
16J/S
inches
Blade
Breast
33
inches
12
inches
17
inches':
inches
A to B
12}4 inches
38
inches
Waist
34J/>
inches
Seat
40^
inches
'.
out from A.
the scye depth plus y4 inch

C is waist length ,C to D
F is iialfway between A and B: G is halfway between
is
length;
out from G, B, C,
is
6 inches
to
and F; square
and E.
From C to 2 is ^S indentation square down from 2 shape the center back from F to 3
from 1 to H is 3/2 breast; H to I is 1^ inches; I to J is ^4 inch; K is halfway between 1
and H
K to L is 3yi inches square down from L to locate Q apply the blade measure
from 1 to L which is I214 inches and Square up
is halfway between 1 and L;
to N is
1^ inches; square up from N; N back to 4 is 14 inch; 22 to 7 is the same distance as 1
draw a line from 4 to 7 N to P is A breast A to 8 is 6}i inches 8 to 9 is IJ/S inches
to 4
draw a line from A to 9.
;
From
is 'A breast; square up from 10 to locate 11

draw a line from J4 'ic'i
and shape the back; Q to S is ^,2 waist; point T is halfway between Q and
S; point U is halfway between L and I; draw a line from T through U up A to 11 and L
draw a line from V to O V to Z is % inch less than
to V is the strap measure plus >)4 inch
drop the shoulder /s inch at Z and shape the shoulder and armscye.
the Ijack shoulder width
below 11 to
to 10
Scjuare forwards from
a rounding line from
draw
by
T-U
line
to J
V to W
to X is
is
Vt,
worn plus '4 inch;

draw a line
J^ breast
of the collar
14
breast
to
is
inch; J
and shape the gorge; X to 26 on the left front is
place the square
are the same; from Q to R is ^4 inch, J^^ ,the indentation
square down, also square down from 13.
from
to
3.-2
to 12
and S to 13
R-S and
to point.
From 6 back to 16 is 2J<2 inches; from 14 to 3 and 15 to 20 is the seat measure; 20

draw a line from 18 through 20
back to 19 is 2 inches square up from ii9 to locate 18
down and shape the side of forepart; from 18 to 21 is the same distance as 5 to 7 31 to 32
shape the bottom of forepaKt; now add to the right front from 26 to 27, IJ/
is }i breast;
inches; 13 to 28, 13 to 29 and 32 to 17 are'all the same.
;
THE COLLAR
Draw
worn,
/'.
a line
if
e.,
from
thrtiugh
the size collar
worn
Y
is
to 23
from
more than the size collar

would be 7 J/^ inches, this
shape the collar from 23 into the
to 23
two
is
sizes
15 inches, one-half of which
would make the distance from X to 3, 8^4 inches

33 to 24 is the heighth of the collar
gorge line square up from 33 to 24 by that line
shape the collar and finish.
desired plus two seams and from 36 to 25 is the same
:
DIAClÎAM
IS
99
100
DIAGRAM
49
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK
The measurements
arc as follows:
>1>
inches
Strap
Scye depth
'*}'2
inches
-l(i)l>
inches
Uvershoulder
Blade
Fashionaljle waist length
18^4 inches
Indentation
Full length, whatever style calls for
From A
to
waist length
B is the
E is full
From C
to
is j/2
H;
to
inch
Waist
35}4 inches
is
and B
through
F,
I is j/2
is
breast;
to J is
1^
N
A
O
T
to
to
is l>it
inches;
is (>}^
square up from
breast; square
draw
a line
down from S and shape
from
fashionable
is
halfway between
is
to
and square down;
is halfway
J to 14 is 1 inch;
from L to locate
apply the blade
}i inch
below
halfway between
draw a line from
is
A to 2i is the same distance as H to O;

T to U is 1^ inches; draw a line from A
to locate
inches;
inches;
inches
inches
39
and I K to L is 3}4 inches square down

between
from
H to L which is 13j4 inches and square up;
measure
13^
halfway l)etween
B, C, D and E.
length
2)4 inches
inches
Breast
^^kii^''^
scye depth plus
and F; square out from G,
this locates
18
to
U A
;
to
to
P; from
H
O
and L
to 24
is
'A,
breast
to
is
j^
the l)ack.
THE SIDEBODY
From X
is
to
inch; O to K
1J4 inches; square down from Y; from 1 to 2 is
halfway between Y and M; point 3 is 3,^ inch above the waistline;
22
breast;
is
is
shape the sidebody.
THE FOREPART
From
to 4
inch less than
Vt:
is
down from 1; this locates 1]

from 11 to 12 is J/2
halfway between M and 4; point
is halfway between
from 5 through 6 up; from A to \V and L to 7 is the strap measure
from 7 to 23 is
inch less than
line from 7 to P
to P; shape
y^ waist;
breast;
square
point 5
L and J; draw
plus )4 inch; draw a
the shoulder and armscye.
a line
is
(i
Square forwards from 7 by line 5-6; 7 to 9 is 'f, breast plus )4 inch; add J4 inch for
through H down; from 9 to 10 is Vo breast;
seam at 4 and shape the front edge from
S
from
to
10
and sha])e the gorge; 4 back to 27 is 2J4
7 to S is y^ breast; draw a line
is
the
waist measure net; shape the side of forepart.
inches; 22 to Y, X to R and 27 to 21
!i
THE REVER
Draw
at
a straight line close to the front edge as at 12-4 up;
12; sweep from
12 forwards
and backwards pivoting
at 29;
sweep from
make
K) to 29 pivoting
the width of the rever
according to the style desired.
THE SKIRT
if a slightly flared skirt is desired, square down
inch more
proceed as follows: go up from 20 to 30,
or less according ti) the amount of drapery desired; draw a line from 16 to 30 and square
down by tliat line to 25; from 30 to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26 is 1^ inches; draw a line
inch more than from S to 17; from 12 to 28
from 30 through 26 down; from 30 to 18 is
square down from b! by the waist line; finish the skirt
is the same distance as 30 to 18;
Draw
from
20.
a straight line from 12 to 20 and
If
more
flare is desired,
as
shown, rounding
it
^s inch at 26.
DIAGRAM
41)
101
102
DIAGRAM
50
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK FOR A STOUT FIGURE

The measurements
are as follows;
inches
Strap
13i4 inches
inches
17
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
18%
inches
1^
9^
Indentation
Scye depth
['nil length whatever style
Square down and
From
waist length
to
From C
from
to
I is J/2
to
is
]%
inches
Waist
42
inches
B,
F,
(".,
C,
indentation
'/>
is
breast
and
blade measure from
42
way between
inches
Breast
C is natural waist length D is fashionable

the scye depth plus }i inch
and B G is halfway between
and
F is halfway between
length
is
is full
to
from A.
(lUt
square out from
F;
calls for
inches
1!)
K
U>
and E.
draw
a line
from
through
to
and square down
square up from 14;

to J is ]>4 inches; J to 14 is 1 inch
inches square down from L to locate
to L is
3^
L which
inches: from
is
to 24
the
half-
M apply the
halfway between H and L:
to O; draw a line from O to 24.
14 inches and square up;
is
K is
same distance as
FT
is
T is G}i inches; T to U is IjA inches; draw a line from A to U from A to

inch below
draw a line from
to P
O to
S is }i breast; square down from S and shape the back; from X to Y is 1J4 inches; square
down from Y 1 to 2 is }i inch O to Z is t'i breast; point 22 is halfway between Y and
From
is Vb
to
breast
to 4 is
inch less than
3/4
waist;
breast;
square
12 to 15
is
shape the sidebody.
point 3 isT^ inch above the waistline;

I'^rom
down from
->4
this
4;
from
hjcates 11;
inch; draw a line from
to
15;
to
II
jioint
is
.12
is
]<
half-
M and 4; point G is halfway between L and J draw a line from 5 through

draw a line from 7
and L to 7 is the strap measure plus >:J inch
from A to
siiape the shoulder and
from 7 to 23 is }i inch less than the back shoulder width
to P
armscye: square forwards from 7 by line 5-(5 from 7 to .9 is 14 breast plus }i inch; also
square forwards from 6 by the same line; this locates 30; add j4 i"ch at 4 and shape
the front edge from 9 through 30 and 4 down; from 9 to 10 is % breast; 7 to 8 is %
breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge; from 4 back to 27 is 1}^ inches;
from 22 to Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net; shape the side of forcjiart.
way between
(i
up
Draw
a straight line
from 20 to 12;
this locates
hollow the bottom of forepart slightly between
point
and
16;
cut
out
small
at
10;
16.
THE REVER
from
Draw a straight line from 19 up to 29; sweep from 10 to 29 ])i\()iing at
shape the
back to 32 is 2J/ inches; sweep from 32 forwards to 13 ])i\'oting at 2!l
bottom of forepart; make the width of the rever according to style.
I'.i
12
THE SKIRT
Square down from 20 by line 16-20; from 20 to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26 is 1 1/$ inches;
draw a line from 20 through 26 down; from 20 to 18 \s% inch more than from S to 17;
]!)
to 28 is the same distance as 20 to 18; square down from 13 by the waist line; finish
the skirt rounding
it
inch at 26.
DIAGRAM
50
103
104
DIAGRAM
51
DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE

The measurements
Indentation
are as follows:
I3/2
inches
Strap
i'-^H
9^
inches
Overshouklcr
Blade
19J4 inches
14J4 inches
Breast
43
inches
Waist
46
inches
.-
Scye depth
17
inches
18^
inches
inches
From
A to
waist length
is
the scye depth plus
is full
length
From C
is
inch
is
halfway between
and E.
J4 indentation; draw a line from

from
to I is J4 breast; I to J is lyi inches; J to 14
and I from
to L is 3J4 inches
halfway between
to
is
and B
tinough
H and L; from N
draw a line from O
tween
to
From
V is
to
6^
is
to
H
O
L which
to
is
M%
inch;
square
to 24
is
is
fashionaljle
halfway between
is
to
and
and square down;
square up from 14;
down from L
to locate
is
to
is
halfway bedistance
the same
as from H
1J4 inches; from
is
is
to 34.
inches;
to
is
1/2 inches; draw a line from
from
to P
draw a line from j4 inch below
to locate
square up from
to 4 is I/2 waist;
from Q to S is 5^ breast; square down from S and shape the back; from
square down from 4; this locates 11; from 11 to 12 is J/^ inch less than % breast; 13 to 15
to
is
breast
}^
J4 inch.
From
this waist
4 back to 37 is \}i inches; from X to R and 37 to Y is the waist measure net;

being 3 inches larger than the breast, there is nothing to^ come out between the
sidebody and the forepart square down from Y from 1 to 2 is }i incli O to Z is i'= breast
inch above the waistline shape
points 21 and 22 are
point 3 is halfway between Y and
or
the sidebody and also the side of forepart, overlapping it between 31 and 33 about
and 4 G is halfway between L and J draw a line from 5
inch point 5 is halfway between
;
through 6 up.
From
7 to 33
is
A to
W and L
to 7
is
the straj) measure plus
% inch
draw
a line from 7 to
P from
;
shape the shoulder and armscye; square
}i inch less than the back shoulder width

from 7 by line 5-6 square forwards from 6
;
by the same line this locates point 30

add }i inch to 4 for a seam and shape the front edge from 9 through 30 down.
Notice: In this case the distance Ijetween the line squared down from 4 and the front
edge is about 3^ inch this amount is given there so as to compensate for the V that is being
cut out from the forepart and also to give the front edge a regular line.
forwards
From
gorge
point 16
16,
9 to 10 is
breast; 7 to 8
is
J4 breast;
draw
a line
from
and shape the
8 to 10
draw a line from 32 to 15 now place the square to point 20 and draw a line to 19
hollow the Ijottom of forepart slightly between 22 and
is where the two lines cross
;
and cut out
a small
at 16.
THE REVER
Draw
to 32
is 2J/2
forepart
sweep from 10 to 29 pivoting at 19 from 12 back

forwards
from
32
to 13 pivoting at 39; shape the bottom of
sweep
inches;
a straight line from 19 up to 39
make
the width of the rever according to style.
THE SKIRT
Square down from 30 by line 16-30 from 20 to 25 is 9 inches from 35 to 26 is lÂ inches
square down from 19 and 13 by the waist line from 30 to 18
a line from 30 through 36
from 19 to 28 is the same distance as 20 to 18; sweep
is j4 inch more than from S to 17
from 32 to 34 pivoting at 28 shape the top of skirt from 30 through 16 to 34 finish the skirt
;
draw
rounding
it
inch at 26.
DIAGRAM
:.l
105
106
DIAGRAM
52
EVENING DRESS COAT

Tlie
Strap
13
inches*
inches
U\ershoul(lcr
17
inches
inches
Blade
Breast
12>-1
inches
30
inches
Waist
32
inches
Indentation
V/2 inches
Scye depth
Full length whatever style
9
16J/'
I834 inches
calls for

the scye depth plus J4 inch; C is natural waist length; U is fashionable waist length; E is full length; F is halfway between A and B; (j is halfway be-
From A
tween
to
and F
is
square out from G, F, B, C,
and E.
through K to Q and square down;

breast; I to J is 1]/^ inches; K is halfway between H and I; K to L is
from H to I is
31/ inches; square down from L to locate M; apply the blade measure from H to L
which is \2y, inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O is I14 inches;
A to 28 is the same distance as from H to O draw a line from O to 28.
From C
to
is
indentation;
draw
from
a line
From A
breast
is Yb
to S
is
to
Yf,
is
G^
inches;
may
be
breast or
from
the hack;
square up from
to
tn
to locate
made
if
from A to U; A to V
from
below
to P
square down from S and shape
draw a
inches;
draw
smaller
1J4 inches;
is
is
/,
line
a line from ^4
so desired
i"*-"li
down from Y.
square
halfway between Y and M point

square
from
to 4 is 3/2 waist
inch less than î breast; point 5 is halfway
down from 4; this locates II from U to 20 is
draw a line from 5 through 6 up
between M and 4 point 6 is halfway between L and J
inch draw a line from 7 to P 7 to 23 is
A to
inch less than the back shoulder width shape the shoulder and armscye.
From
to 2
is
-yj,
inch
(J to
above the waist
>4 inch
is
line
is
1*5
breast
point
shape the sidebody
is
Square forwards from 7 by line 5-G 7 to 9 is Vt breast; 4 back to 13 is V/2 inches;

through J and 13 down; draw a line from 3 to 20 and shape the
shape the front edge from
bottom of forepart; from 9 to 10 is !6 breast; this may be made more or less according to
style; 7 to 8 is J/^ breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge.
;
THE REVER
a straight line from 14 through 27 up; make the width of the rever according to
and also make the length of the rever to correspond with the front and skirt strap;
from 4 back to 30 is 2>4 inches; Z to Y, X to R and 30 to 21 is the waist measure net;
Draw
style
THE SKIRT
From Y
34 to 19
to 19;
is
to 25
14
draw
is 9
inch
inches; 25 to 20
is
1 >{.
inches; draw a line from 24 through 20
down;
to 17; from 20 to 29 is the same distance as from 24

from 3 to 13 is y^ inch; shape the top of the skirt from
inch at 14; from 14 to 15 is l.)4 inches; from 15 to 16 is Vi
more than from S
a line from 19 to 29;
24 through 12 and drop
it
54
of the distance of 14 to 24.
From
skirt
and
19 to 18
finish
is
the
rounding
it
same distance
inch at 26.
as 15 to 16;
draw
a line
from 18 to 16; shape the
22(S^
DIAGRAM
5a
1<>'
108
DIAGRAM
53
EVENING DRESS COAT FOR A STOUT FIGURE

The measurements
are as follows
Indentation
IJ/^
inches
Strap
13
Scye depth
9^
inches
18^4 inches
16%
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
13J/2
inches
F"ashionable waist length
ISyi inches
Breast
40
inches
Waist
40
inches
inches
Square dmvn and out from A.
From A
waist length
to
is tiie
scyc deptli
is full lengtii
jjIus >4
inch
is
halfway between
and E.
is
and B
is
is
fashionable
halfway between
antl
from A through R to Q and square

down; H to I is yi breast; I to J is Ij/S inches; K is halfway between H and I; K to
L is 31/2 inches; square down from L to locate M; api)ly the blade measure from H to
L which is 13J^ inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O is 1'/^
inches; A to 28 is the same distance as H to O; draw a line from O to 28.
From C
to
is
y, indentation
draw
a straight line
a line from A to U
A to V
from )4 '"^^li 'je'tjw
from
to P
inches;
Y
is
the
back;
from
X
to
and
shape
from
S
"/^
square
down
1%
breast;
to
is
S
Q
point Z is halfway
from 1 to 2 is }i inch O to K is A breast
square down from Y
above
Waist line; shape
inch
the
to
Z
point
is
from
K
line
draw
a
>2
between Y and M
From A
is
to
inches
is ii}i
square up from
breast;
Vb
to
is
to locate VV
>^ inches
;
draw
draw
a line
''>
the sidebody.
From
to 4 is >^ waist;
square
down from
draw
this locates
from' 11 to 14
11;
is
j/l
halfway
draw a line from 5 through 6 up;
is halfway between L and J
and 4; point
between
inch; draw a line from 7 to 1'; from ;
from A to
to 23 is ys inch less than the back shoulder width; shape the shoulder and'armscye.
inch less than
breast; 14 to 15
is
}i inch;
from
a line
(!
to
15;
point 5
is
-j-:^
back to 3 is 13,2 inches;

Square forwards from 7 by line 5-0; 7 to is U. I)reast from
Hi
to
I)re:^st
is
7 to 8 is V^
and Kidown; from
tlirnugh
shape the front edge fnini
inches; from Z
breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge; from 4 back to 30 is 1
to Y, X to R and 30 to 21 is the waist measure net shape the side of forepart draw a straight
line from 24 to 14; point 12 is where the two lines cross; cut out a small V at 12; point 27
shape the top of skirt from 24 through 27 and 12, dropping it y
inch below point
is
inches; 25 to 26 is l^^ inches; draw a
inch at 20; square down from Y; Y to 25 is
inch more tiian from S to 17; 15 to 29
line from 24 through 20 down; 24 to 19 is
draw a line from 19 to 29 from 20 to 22 is ly inches 12 to
is the same distance as 24 to 19
from 20 to 12 is !^ the distance of 20 to 24; 19 to 18
10 is the same; draw a line from Hi to 22
is the same distance as 20 to 12; draw a line from 18 to 10; shape the skirt and finish, round!)
'.
'J
'
1.
.>lj
.!
1)
ing
it
ys inch at 26.
THE REVER.
The
rever
is
made
in
the
same way
as described in the previous diagram.
DIAGRAM
.'):!
]()!!
no
DIAGRAM
54
EVENING DRESS CQAT WITH REVER'ANO SKIRT STRAP

The measurements
IN ONE.
are as follows;
Indentation
1^4 inches
Strap
Scye tlepth
Waist length
9^
(Jvershoiilder
IGyi inches
Blade
13
inches
Fashional)le waist lengtli
18^
Breast
38
inches
inches
inches
Waist
down and
S(|uarc
iM'om
to
waist length;
12J4 inches
l'i}i inches
34}4 inches
out from A.
is fashioniible
C is natural waist length
B is the scye depth plus j4
E is full length; F is halfway between A and B; G is halfway between A and
i'l*-"'!
F; square out from G,
I-^,
B, C,
L.)
and E.
through R to Q and scpiare down;

I to J is 1^ inches; K is halfway between H and I
K to L is SJ^
from
apply the blade measure from H to L which is 13
inches; square down from L to locate M
inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O is 1J4 inches; A to :i8 is the
same distance as from II to O; draw a line from O to 28.
From C
to
is
II to 1 is 1/ lireast
A to U; A to \"
to P; from
draw a line from 34 '""-'h lielnw
from
to
is
and
the
back;
X
Y
down
from
S
shape
is
\y4 inches;
Q to S
A
inch;
point
Z
is
halfway
beis
K
is
breast;
from
1
to
2
to
down
from
Y;
O
square
%
inch
abo\-e
the
waistline;
shape
the
sidebody.
is
point
3
2
tween V and M;
3
From A
to
is 6)4,
inches;
square up from
3^ breast; square
breast;
is Vi
to
to locate
1^^ inches; draw a line from
is
W;

11 to 16 is 3^ inch less
halfway between M and 4; point 6 is halfway between L and J;
and L to 7 is the strap measure plus 34
through
up; from A to
draw a line from
frcini 7 to 23 is
inch less than
to P
shape the shoulder
inch draw a line from 7 to P
is }{, Ijreast
4 back to 13 is
and armscve square forwards frcmi 7 by line 5-6; from 7 to
lyi inches; draw a line from D through J and 13 down.
From
than
Vi
to 4 is 34 waist
breast;
point 5
is
(i
.j
from Z to Y, X to R and 30 to 31 is the waist measure

to \V and 7 tn ITi is the length (if the waistcoat plus
to 15; tiiis locates 20;
inch; siiape the bottom of forepart, hollowing it slightly from
make the distance from '2(i tn 22 alxiut '4 inches and shape the lapel and fmnt edge ac<-ord-
From
back to 30
is
2^4 inches;
net; shaiic the side of forepart;
from
.\
.'!
ing to style.
THE
From Y
to 25
is 9
inches; 25 to 26. is
3/'2
SKIRT.
inches; draw
a line
from 34 through 20 down;
from 2 J to 10 is 3/4 inch more than from S to 17; from 10 to 2!) is the same distance as
from 21 to 10; draw a line from 10 to 29; from 20 to 13 is '^ the distance of from 20
to 24; from 19 to 18 is the same distance as from 20 to 12; draw a line from 18 to 12;
inch
shape the top of skirt from 24 through 27, dropping it }i inch at
from 3 to 27 is
Finish the skirt rounding it ->s inch at 26.
12.
#26
DIAGRAM
54
111
11^
DIAGRAM
This coat
is
the same style as"
The measurements
Diagram
55
except that
54,
it
is
for a Stout Figure.
are as follows
1^
9^
Indentation
Scye depth
inches
Strap
inches
13JX inches
inches
19
17
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
14
inches
18^
inches
Breast
43
inches
Waist
42
inches
calls for
From A
to
waist length
is fashionable
C is natural waist length
the scye depth plus J4 inch
G is halfway between A and
length F is halfway between A and B
is
is full
and E.
A through R to Q and square

halfway between H and I K to L is 3}4
inches; square down from L to locate M; apply the blade measure from H to L which is
14 inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O is l}i inches; A to 28 js
the same distance as H to O
From C to R is J^ the indentation draw
down; H to I is J/^ breast; I to J is IJ^ inches;
;
a line from
is
T to U is I3/2 inches; draw a line from A to U from A

to P
to locate VV; draw a line from %. inch below
from
V
to V is % breast; square up
from
back
X
Y
is
inches
and
shape
the
to
down
from
S
1%
Q to S is >^ breast square
l^reast point Z is halfway between
square down from Y from 1 to 2 is J4 '"'-"h O t" ^ '^
Y and M; point 3 is J4 inch above the waistline; shape the sidebody.
From
to
6^
is
inches;
''-
square down from 4;

is halfway between
from 11 to 14 is J/^
and 4; point 6 is halfway between L
and J draw a line from 5 through 6 up from A to
inch less than
to P shape the shoulfrom
7 to 23 is
to
P
7
line
from
draw
a
inch
}i
breast; from 4 back
by
line
5-6;
from
to
is
from
7
9
^
7
forwards
square
armscye;
der and
through
and
down.
from
13
line
9
a
draw
inches;
to 13 is 134
J
From
to 4
inch less than
Ye
is
waist;
breast; point 5
From
9 to 10 is
14,
this locates 11;
breast; 7 to 8
is
34 breast;
draw a
from 8 to 10 and shape the

and 30 to 21 is the waist meas-
line
gorge; from 4 back to 30 is 1J4 inches; fromZ to Y, X to R

and 7 to 15
ure net shape the side of forepart from A to
plus 1 inch; shape the bottom of forepart from 3 to 15.
THE
is
the length of the waistcoat
SKIRT.
1>^ inches; draw a line from 24 through 26

From Y
from
than
S to 17 from 14 to 29 is the same distance as
more
inch
down; from 24 to 19 is
to
is Ki the distance of from 30 to 24 19 to 18 is
from
30
12
to
39
34 to 19 draw a line from 19
inch shape
line
a
from 18 to 13 from 3 to 27 is
draw
to 25 is 9 inches;
25 to 36
is
the top of skirt and finish.
NOTE: The only difference between this coat and the previous coat is that this coat
being for a stout figure, has a small V cut out at 12, and the other dress coat has a fish cut out.
DIAGRAM
55
11.1
114
DIAGRAM
56
SINGLE-BREASTED OVERCOAT.
This ovefcoat is neither a shapely overcoat nor a loose overcoat it is just a plain coat
which never is out of style. The measurements for overcoats are taken over the waistcoats
in all cases, the same as for any other coat and the additions are made in the cutting.
;
The measurements
as taken over the waistcoat are as follows:
Scye depth
Waist length
Full length whatever
inches
Blade
IS^/^
inches
t>K>
inches
Breast
3(i
inches
Waist
33
inches
Hip
38
inches
style calls for
Strap
12
inches
Overshoulder
17
inches
From A
to
is
the scye depth plus 34
i'l*-"'^
to
is
inch
this
the difference be-
is
from A to D is the waist length plus ;4 inch D to

halfway between A and C; G is halfway between
is
F
length;
is
full
to
E
inches;
A
6
23 is
E.
and
D,
23
B,
C,
from
G,
square
out
F
A and
tween the undercoat and the overcoat
E to 22 is the same; this not being a shapely coat, you

shape the center of back from F to 2 and down this locates
this case is lyi inches. If the material for the overcoat is to he extremely
from 1 to 21 may be as much as 2 inches and no more; from 3 to 25 is
distance
heavy, the
inches; I
is 3/ of 3t) breast: H to I is
.;-4
from 1 to 21 from 21 to
as
the same distance
square
from
is
Sy,
inches;
down
21
and
H;
K
to
L
between
halfway
is
inch; K
is
to
From D
to 2 is 3/ indentation;
line out at 22
do not swing that

from 1 to 21 in
1
to locate Q.
Apply the blade measure from
to 15, 34 inch or
Vi
21 to
L which
of the distance of from
I234 inches and square up; go liack from
is
to 21
this gives
'A
of the increase to the fore-
part and Vi of the increase from the front of the armscye backwards; square up from 15; point
from N to 4
is halfway between 1 and 15; from M to N is I34 inches; square uj) from .\
2S
as from
inch;
to
is
the
same
distance
from
22
case
is
this
%
from N back to P in
is 1 inch
This distance
to P.
may
be
made
greater
if
so desired.
is 134 inches; draw a line

from 28 to P; from A to 8 is 6^ inches; S to
to
10
locate
draw a line from
square
from
11
breast;
up
from A to 10 is Vb
from A to 9
point
from
is
of
waist;
T is halfway
back;
to
S
32
'/^
O
34 inch below 11 to O and shape the
line
from
through
between
L
and
I;
draw
a
T
V up.
between O and S; point U is halfway
Draw
a line
from V to O;
from V to Z is ;Hi i'i^"'i '^^^ than the lâck shoulder width; shape the shoulder and armscye;
draw a rounding
is 'A brea.st plus 3^ inch
square forwards from \' by line T-U from Vto
to X according to style; V to Y is 3-s
to J make the depth of the gorge from
line from
l)reast; draw a line from V tlu-ough X and shape the gorge.
From
and L to
to 11
is
inch;
draw
a line
is of a medium weight the distance from J to 12 is \}^ inches; if the maheavy weight the distance may be 2 to 2>4 inches but no more if the material is extra
weight. 13^ inches is enough; from S to ]3 is the same distance as J to 12.
If
the material
terial is
light
draw aline from R through S; square down from 13

and
16; there being no under-arm fish in this coat, the
by
distance from 27 to 7 is the same as from H to 12; from Ifl to 25 and 7 to 20 is the hij)
measure; from 20 back to li) is 2 inches; square up from 10 to 5; draw a line from 5 through
from 5 to 29 is the sanie distance as from 5 to 28
20 down and shape the side of forepart
bottom
of forepart and finish.
the
shape
breast;
is
17
IG
to
%
from
From
line
R-S
to
is
34 the indentation;
this locates points 27
DIAGRAM
56
115
ic
DIAGRAM
57
SINGLE-BREASTED SHAPELY OVERCOAT.

The measurements
as taken over the waistcoat are as follows
1^
9%
Indentation
Scye depth
Waist length
Overshoulder
Blade
17^
inches
inches
13
inches
inches
Breast
38
inches
34J/^
inches
l^yi inches
Waist
Hip
17
inches
style calls for.
Strap
iOyi inches
From A
to
the scye depth plus
is
plus
to 23
is
(i is
halfway between
inch;
From
of
to 2
1^
inches;
down from L
to
is
^ inch A to D
;
the waist length
is
halfway between
6 inches; A to E
and F; square out from G, B, C, D, 23 and E.
is
^ the indentation;
is
inch
full
to 22
length;
is
the distance of
is 3/2
and C;
to 2; shape the center
from 1 to 21 is lyi inches; 21 to H is i/^ breast; H to I is

K is halfway between 21 and H K to L is 3^ inches square
to J is ^ inch
apply the blade measure from 21 to L which is 13 inches and square
to locate Q
back from
j/4
to 2
and
2 to 22
up.
up from 15; point M is halfway between 1 and 15;

from M to N is 1J4 inches; square up from N; from N to 4 is 1 inch; point P is halfway between M and N from 22 to 28 is the same distance as from ] to P this may be made wider if
so desired. Draw a line from 28 to P; from A to S is Gfg inches; 8 to 9 is 1^ inches; draw a
square up from 10 to locate 11 draw a line
line from A to 9 from A to 10 is li of 38 breast
from y^ inch below 11 to O and shape the back.
iM-om
back to 15
is
J/ inch; square
between Q and S; point U is halffrom A to 11 and L to V is the strap

measure plus ^4 inch; draw a line from V to O; from V to Z is }& inch less than 11 to O;
is 'A
V to
shape tlie shoulder and armscye; square forwards from V l)y line T-U
from
to
from
to
X
is
breast
or
according
line
rounding
%
draw
inch
a
i)reast plus
J
to style; V to Y is ji breast; draw a line from Y through X and shape the gorge; from S
to 13 is 1% inches; J to 12 is the same.
From Q to S is 3/2 of 34
way between L and I draw
;
is halfway
J4 waist; point
through
up
a line from
draw a line from R liiruugli S; square down from

from 27 to 7 is J/^ inch less than from H to 12;
from 19 to 25 and 7 to 20 is the hip
from 3 to 25 is the same distance as from 1 to 21
measure; from 20 back to 6 is 2 inches; square up from 6 to locate 18; draw a line from
18 through 20 down and shape the side of forepart.
From
i:i
l)y line
to
R-S;
is
J/4
the indentation;
this locates point 27-16;
from 5 to 28; 16 to 17 is j/s breast; shape the

l)ottom of forepart and finish. Cut out an underarm fish and lower the side of forepart as
from 31 to 32, J^ the amount that has been taken out at the fish.
From
18 to 29
is
the
same distance
as
)i.\(,K.\M
.-.r
118
DIAGRAM
This coat
is '^yi
from
to
3-)4
is
made
the
same as shown on diagram
inches and from S to 13
tiie edLrc.
is
the same-
58
J? with the exception that from J to 13
This would
set the
buttons 7 to
7^/2
inches
DIAGRAM
58
;i:)
120
DIAGRAM
59
SHAPELY OVERCOAT FOR A STOUT FIGURE.

The measurements
Indentation
Scye depth
Waist length
Full length according
IJ/^
inches
9^
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
inches
Breast
43 inches
43 inches
13j4 inches
Waist
Hip
17
to style.
Strap
19 inches
14 inches
44 inches
From
plus
is
to
inch;
halfway between
From
from 2;
21 to
the scye depth plus 34 inch B to C

is 6 inches;
to E is full length;
is
to 23
is .)4
inch;
to
is
halfway between
and F; square out from G, B, C, D, 23 and E.
is
waist length
and C;
to 2 is J4 indentation; shape the center of back from to 2 and square

this locates 1-3; from 1 to 21 is IJ/2 inches; 2 to 24 and 3 to 25 are the same;
is
1/2
H to is
H; K to L
of 42 breast;
halfway between 21 and

the blade measure from 21 to
L which
lj4 inches;
is 3J/2
is
in>-hes;
to J
is
inch; square up from J;
down from L
square
14 inches and square up
from
to locate
L back
to 15
down
from
is
Q; apply
is
}^ inch
Square up from 15; point M is halfway between 1 and 15; M to N is 1J4 inches;' square
up from N from N to 4 is 1 inch N to P is 'A inch 22 to 28 is the same distance as from 1
to P; draw a line from P to 28
from A to 8 is (i^ inches; 8 to 9 is 1 J/ inches; draw a line
from A to 9 A to 10 is K of 42 breast; square out from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from
J4 inch below 11 to O and shape the back.
;
From O to S is y, waist; point T is halfway between Q and S; point U is halfway between L and I draw a line from T through U up; from A to 11 and L to V is the strap
measure plus ^}^ inch draw a line from V to O from V to Z is
inch less than the back
shoulder width; shape the shoulder and arm scye; square forwards from V by line T-U
V to is % breast plus ^ inch square out from U by the same Ime this locates 26 draw
a line from
to 26
from
to X is J^ breast \' to Y is j/^ breast; draw a line from Y to X
and shape the gorge.
;
is 1% inches; S to 13 is the same; from Q to R is 3^2 indentation; draw

through S; square down from 13 by line R-S and shape the front edge; from
S back to 14 is 2^/^ inches; from 27 to 7 is J4 inch less than 13 to 14; from 5 to 24 and 14
to 18 is the waist measure net; square down fmni 18 to locate 6; from 6 to 20 is 2 inches;
draw a line from 18 through 20 down and shape the side of forepart; from 18 to 29 is the
same distance as from 5 to 28.
From
a line from
From
26 to 12
16 to 17
is J/g
breast;
measure from the side of backpart
draw
a straight
and from
line
from
2!)
to
17;
now apply
the hip
from 19 to
20 in this case of I54 inches; split the forepart down to the pocket; open the pocket to
the front V allowing it to open under the arm I14 inches the same as shown on diagram
18 and 19.
to 25
7 to 19
this leaves a surplus
l-.'l
22
DIAGRAM
59
DIAGRAM
60
DOUBLE-BREASTED OVERCOAT FOR STOUT FIGURE.

'I'lic
in tlie
or
nieasurenients fur this coat arc the
same way with the
;j-)4
inches;
S to
inches;
27 to
"i
is
same
as gi\
eii
exceptiuii uf the l)Utton-staiul
13 is the
same; square down
y^ inch less
Finish the coat in the same
than
1:1
manner
fn.>m
for iliayraiii
which
l.'i
is:
fmm
hy hne R-S
to 14.
as described for
diagram
59.
The
.")'-i.
to
'.'G
I'.'
coat
is
is :!'j
from S to
made
inches,
It is 2}^
123
82
DIAGRAM
60
124
DIAGRAM
61
SINGLE-BREASTED LOOSE-HANGING OVERCOAT.

This overcoat
neither a shapely coat iinr a liux o\ ercoat,
is
Ijut is just
between the two.
The measurements as taken over the waistcoat are as follows:

9
inches
Overshoulder
Scye depth
16i/^ inches
Blade
Waist length
17
12i/^
inches
Breast
36
inches
Waist
32
inches
Strap
inches
18
inches
From
to
is
the scye depth plus Yn inch B to C is

is G inches; A to E is full length;
;
plus
halfway between
is
inch;
^
F
inch
to
is
waist length,
halfway between
and F; square out from G, B. C. D, 23 and E.
to 23
is
and C;
dnwn; this locates 22; square

be more if so desired; 21 to H is
breast; H to I is 1J4 inches; I to J is
inch K is halfway between 31 and H; K to L is
square down from L to locate Q apply the blade measure from 21 to L which
3J/^ inches
is 12I/J inches and square up; from L back to 15 is Yz inch.
F'rom
to 2
is
forwards from 32; from
iticli
1
draw
to 21
is
from
IJo inches or
a line
'.'
may
llimugli
I''
halfway between 1 and 15; from M to N is \Y inches; square up and down

from 19 to 6 is 1 j inches 19 to 20 is 3J/2 inches or make the
distance from 6 to 20, 5 inches; draw a line from N through G
this locates 5; from 4 to 25
is Y2 inch
draw a line from 25 through 20 dow n from 35 to 18 is the same distance as from
Point
from
is
this locates point 19
'
35 to
5.
from A to 10
to 8 is 6^^ inches; 8 to 9 is 1J4 inches; draw a line from A to 9
breast; square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from Ya nich below 11 to
and
From A
is
shape the back.
manner: frnni
between L and
3
1
This being a draped coat, we lengthen the front edge in the following
to S is J/^ waist; point T is halfway between Q and S; point U is halfway
draw a line from T through U up.
measure plus J4 inch; draw a line from V to O

V to Z is -l^ inch less than the back shoulder width shape the shoulder and armscye
is M breast plus .)4 inch; draw a rounding
square forwards from \' by line T-U V to
to J
draw a line from Y to X and
line from
to X is /^ breast V to Y is J^ breast
shape the gorge; J to 12 is \^/^ inches; S to 13 is the same; Q to R is 1 inch; draw a line
from R through S; square down from 13 by line R-S this locates 16; from 16 to 17 is Yi
breast; shape the front edge, bottom of forepart and finish.
From
to
II
and L
to
is
the strap
from
DIAGRAM
61
]2/:
126
DIAGRAM
62
STRAIGHT-HANGING OVERCOAT FOR A STOUT FIGURE.

The measurements
as taken nvev the waistcoat are as follows:
Scye depth
Waist length
Strap
10
inches
J7>4 inches
calls for.
]
o)4 inches
Overshoulder
Blade
Breast
Waist
Ill
DIAGRAJM
62
-127
128
DIAGRAM
63
DOUBLE-BREASTED ULSTER.
The measurements
Overshoulder
Blade
17^
inches
13
inches
inches
Breast
38
inches
13>4 inches
Waist
34
inches
9}i inches
inches
Scye depth
Waist length
17
Full length
47
Strap
From A
between
to
length plus
and F; square out from G, B, C,
From D
B to C is
inch;
to
the scye depth plus y4 incli
and C
A to E is full length F is halfway between
is
inch
D
;
the waist
is
is
halfway
and E.
^ inch; draw a line from F through 2

breast; H to
to H is
1>4 inches;
down;
from 1 to
halfway
is ly^ inches; 3
3/2
^
from
L;
apply
the
blade
measure
square
down
inches;
between 3 and H; K to L is 3J/2
is halfway
from 3 to L which is 13 inches and square up; from L to 15 is yi inch; point
from
from
square
and
down
N;
N to P
up
between 1 and 15; from M to N is 1J4 inches
inch
from P to 4 is ^ inch.
is
to 8
is
I is
;i
this locates 23;
to J
is
inch;
is
From A
is 'h
1(1
8 to 9
is
from A to
from 19 to 6 is
locates point 9 shape the back from A to
to 30 is 3>4 inches; draw a line from
draw
inches;
lj/2
square up from 10 to locate
draw
draw
11 to
1,
!i
a line from
from
a line
a line from N through 6 down; this

O, O to 4 and from 4 through G dow;i to
through 20 down; hollow the side seam at 2(i about
inch;
to 8 is 6J^ inches;
breast;
11 to
A
O
to 9
(I
inch.
halfway between Q and S; point U is halfway bea line from T through U up; from A to 11 and L to V is the strap
measure plus % inch; draw a line from V to O from \' to Z is ^ inch less than 11 to O;
is Mi
square forwards from V by line T-U from V to
shape the shoulder and armscye
to j
from
to X is Ve breast; V to Y
Ijreast plus yi inch; draw a rounding line from
draw a line from Y to X and siiape the gorge.
is % breast
From Q to S is J4
tween L and I; draw
waist; point
is
from R through S; from S to 13 is 3^ inches; J

this locates point 16; from 16 to 17 is
line R-S
by
to 12 is
v!^ breast
shape the front edge. Now add }i inch as from 4 to 5 and 9 to 10 and reshape
from 4 to 18 is the same length a- from 5 to 10 shape the bottom of forepart
the backpart
From
to
is'j4 inch;
the same; square
draw
a line
down from
13
and
finish.
THE COLLAR.
Draw the crease line from 12 through 27 up;
down to the second button; the collar is cut so as
\'
from 33 to 24
From
>;\
is
to 25
to 26 is the
will
from A to 11 on the backpart; from 21 to 23

the crease line from 23 through V to 27.
shape
the same;
same width
to 21 is the
button up high or to roll

button easily in either case; from
this coat is to
it
is
width
as
is
1%. inches and
33-25 and square out to 26;

}i inch; place the square to points
of the collar desired; shape the collar and finish.
from
DIAGRAM
63
139
i:50
DIAGRAM 64
SINGLE-BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT.
The measurements
Scve depth
style calls for.
inches
13
Strap
Overshoulder
Blade
inches
!'
16>4 inches
Waist length
inches
Breast
1^/^ inches
î'jj/l inches
Waist
32
inches
From A
to
to
halfway between
and E.
and C;
scye depth plus
is
length;
J4 inch; E is full
inch;
y^,
is
is
inch
is
to
is
waist length plus
halfway between
and F;
draw a straight line from F through 2 down; this locates 22;

square forwards from 22 by that line; from 1 to 21 is 3 >^ inches; 21 to H is ^ breast; H
to I is lj/2 inches; 1 to J is ^ inch; K is halfway between 21 and H; K to L is 31/2 inches;
square down from L to locate Q; apply the blade measure from 21 to L which is 12}^
inches and square up; L back to 15 is Y2 inch; square up and down from 15; this locates
From D
to 2
is
inch;
;5.
square up from N to lofrom

A to 'J; from A to 10 is
cate U;
and
line
from
to
shape the back; point
draw
a
11
O
locate
to
11
10
from
square
up
M breast;
from
to
locate IS); 11) to G is
line;
square
down
4
breast
the
crosses
armhole
4 is where the
and
from 4 through 20
through
to
lines
from
draw
4
7
inches;
is
to
20
3^
ly^ inches;
I'oint
yV
halfway between
is
to 8
is
and 15;
^y% inches; 8 to D
is
to
1}2 inches;
is
inches;
xy^,
draw
a line
(i
(i
to 18.
halfway between Q and S point U is halfway bedraw a line from T through U up; from A to II and ]^ to V is the strap
tween Land
inch less than 11 to O shape the
measure plus 1 inch draw a line fromV to O; V to Z is
]i/^ inches;
shoulder and armscye as shown; from 3 up to R is 1^ inches; from S to Hi is
to 12 is the same; draw a line from R to 13 and square down; this locates point l(i from l(i
V to
is 'A
edge square forwards from V by line T-U
"to 17 is 34 breast; shape the front
to J.
breast plus y^ inch
From
o to
1
^4 waist
is
point
is
and shape tiie

is J^ breast; draw a line from Y to
to P, 1J4 inches and from 7 to 5 the same and reshape
shape tiie bottom of
the same distance as from I' to
breast; V to Y
to X is
From
o-oro-e; now add to the backpart from 4
the back as shown;

forepart and finish.
\<>
from
to IS
is
.")
DIACIRAM
Gi
131
;i3
DIAGRAM
65
BOX OVERCOAT FOR A STOUT FIGURE.

The measurements
Scye depth
Waist length
inches
i)>4
inches
17
style calls for.
inches
13
Strap
Overshoulder
Blade
18>4 inches
ISJX inchess
Breast
40
inches
Waist
40
inches
From
to
plus }i inch; E is
F square out from G, B, C,
;
From D
locates 22
to
to 2 is
iy2 inches;
I is
and
square dowri from
^4 inch
is
and C;
is
to
is
waist length
halfway between
and
E.
V through
square forwards from 22 by that line
the scye depth plus J4 inch B to

full length; F is halfway between
is
and shape the center seam;
to 21
inches
is 1^:^
is halfway between 21
inch;
to J is
to locate Q; apply the ijlade measure
21 to
this
3^ breast
3^1 inches;
is
and H; K to L is
from 21 to L which
is
13^
From L back
halfway between
is
(i}i
to 15
inches; 8 to 9
is
is
y^ inch;
square up and down from 15; this locates point 3; point

to N is I34 inches; square up from N; from A to 8 is
from A to 10 is 'A breast; square
draw a line from A to
and 15;
l^^ inches;
i)
up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from 34 i'i<-"li below

the back as from A to ]], 11 to O and O through 4.
Point 4
is
where the armhole crosses the breast
line
]] to
square
shape the upper part of
down from
this locates
3}i inches; draw line from 4 through 6 down;

19; from
from 3 to S is J/^ waist; point T is
through
20 down
line
from
4
draw
a
also
this locates 7;
and I draw a line from T through
halfway
))etween
L
is
U
and
S;
i)oint
halfway between Q
19 to 6 is 1>4 inches;
6 to 20 is
up.
from V to O; from
and armscye
draw a line from VV
is % breast plus ^4 inch
square forwards from V by line T-U V to
draw a line from Y to X
to X is the depth of the gorge desired V to Y is y^ breast
to J
and shape the gorge; J to 12 is ] J4 inches; S to ]3 is the same; Q to R is IJ^ inches; square
\'
From A to n and L to V is the strap measure plus

Z is ^ inch less than the back shoulder width;
to
R-S
16 to 17
is
draw
a line
shoulder
the
this locates 16.
from 4 to 14 is the
y^ breast
of forepart; now add to the back from 4 to
From
bottom
13 by line
down from
inch
shape
same length as from 4 to 7 shape the

P and 7 to 5 ly inches and reshape the
;
not absolutely necessary to split the front for the sake of

taking out the front fulness, but if so desired.it may be done as follows: split the forepart
overlap it the same way as shown on diaas from 28 to 23, 23 to 24 and from 24 to 26
gram 66, but in which case it is well to add as from 14 to 18 about as much as will be
back.
In a coat of this kind
it is
taken out between 26 and 27;
this
is
done so as the drapery should not be lessened.
'
13(1
DIAGRAM
65
134
DIAGRAM
After the forepart has been
forepart together so that they
134 inches allowing
as at
so that
it
when
split as
be fuller than the upper edge.
shown on diagram
should touch at l)-K;
to overlap
the
66
from
to
65, place the
open from
to
and reshape the bottom.
two seams are taken out the lower edge
two parts
of the
say about
Cut out
or
a small
of the pocket should not
DIAGRAM
66
i;55
136
DIAGRAM
This diagram
is
the
same
67
as ciiagram G5 with the exception that this
is
a Double-l'reasted
Overcoat, and the addition to the front edge should be made as follows: from 25 to 12 should
be
J/4
of the button lap
Finish the coat in
and from S to 13 the same.
tlie
same manner
as
shown on diagrams
05 and 66.
DIAGRAM
67
137
138
DIAGRAM
68
SINGLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT.

The measurements
as taken o\'er the waistcoat arc as follows:
Indentation
Strap
J^ inches
Scye depth
[ull length according to
12J/2
'J}i
inches
0\ ershouldcr
]6i/2
inches
Blade
Breast
ISJ4 inches
n%
Waist
style.
inches
inches
13
inches
38
inches
34J/2
inches
.'
Square down and out from A,
From A
to
the scye depth plus "4
is
iuch;
to 30 is
-J^
inch;
to
is
J/2
inch
more than the natural waist length; C to D is IJ/^ inches or may be l->4 inches; E is full
length; F is halfway between
and 30; G is halfway between A and 1'"; scpiare out from
.'\
G, F, B, 30, C,
and E.
From C to R is ],< the indentation; draw a line from .A through R tn y and square
down this locates II from H to 13 is I3/2 inches or may be made 1 J4 inches; from 13 to I is
;
J-2
breast
is 33,4
which
31
is
to
to j
inches
is
'
inches
halfway between 13 and I from K to

measure from 13 to L
back to 31 is 3/2 inch point N is halfway between H and
the same distance as H to O; draw a line from O to 28.
J to 22 is
and square up;
134 inches;
is
down from L
sejuare
13 inches
(.)
to 28
L
is
inch
to locate
K
;
is
apjjly the blade

;
from A to
to P from
draw a line from 14 inch below
scjuare up from V to locate
breast
Q to S is 5^ breast plus ^4 inch or may be made to style; scjuare down from S and shape the
from O to 23 is
t(j 2 is j4 iui-'h
back; from X to Y is 134 inches; square down from Y;
tV breast; jtoint Z is halfway between the line squared flown frotn 31 and Y; point 3 is 3/2
inch above the waist line; shape the sidebody.
I'Vcim
\' is
t(i
,'()
inches;
is ii-}g
to
draw
inches;
is IJ/2
a line from
From M
to 4
is
34 inch less than
3.-2
',4,
.5
down from I; llus locates II; from 11 to 14

halfway between
and 4; point 6 is halfway bethrough
and L to 7 is the strap
up; from A to
to P;
from 7 to P; from 7 to 23 is )i inch less than
point 5
tween L and J; draw a line from

measure plus .>4 inch; draw a line
shape the shcadder and armscye.
square
of 3434 waist;
breast;
to
is
is
(i
is 'i breast plus 3'2 inch; draw a line

Irom 1 to
Scpiare forwards from 7 by line .5-(i
from 9 to 22 from
to 10 is 'A breast; 7 to 8 is 3/3 breast; draw a line from 8 to 10
and shape the gorge; from 4 back to 17 is 234 inches; from R to 29 is the same distance
as from 11 to 13; from Z to Y, X to 2'.l and 17 to 21 is the waist measure net; shape the
!l
!)
side of forepart.
sweep from 14 forwards and backPlace the square to line 14-4 and make a mark at .'Ui
from 22 to 27 is 1^4 inches; 4 to
wards pi\oting at 3() and shape the bottom of forepart
;
32
is
the same;
shape the front edge.
THE
Draw
a straight line
SKIRT.
from the front swecj)
to Id;
this locates point 12;
go up from 16
according to the amount of flare desired; draw a line from

12 to 24 and square down by that line to 25; from 24 to 25 is 9 inches; from 25 to 26 is I34
inches; draw a line from 24 through 26 down; from 24 to 19 is 34 inch more than S to 18
finish the skirt as shown, rounding it 5^
from 14 to 15 is the same distance as from 24 to 19
to 24, 134 inches
more or
less
inch at 26.
DIACiRAM
68
139
H"
DIAGRAM
SINGLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOA
69
FOR A STOUT FIGURE.
1"
Tlie mcasurc-incnts as taken over the waistcoat are as follows:
Indentation
1^
inciies
Strap
13J/2
inches
Scye depth
Natural waist lengtii
9^)4
inches
O\ershoul(ler
Id
inches
IT
inches
14
inches
18^
inches
Blade
Breast
12
inches
Waist
43
inches
Prom A
length plus
and
:!()
to
j/^
the scye depth plus 34 '"^''i

L> to oO
is 1J4 or 1^4 inches; E is
C to
is
halfway between
is
is
'
inch;
J4
'"^"'i
'<
to
length;
full
is
and F; square out from G, F, B,
is
natural waist
halfway between
30,
C,
and E.
draw a line from A through R to O; from H to 13 is IJ/2

inch
breast
from 13 to I is
I to J is ] /$ inches
J to 23 is }i
from K to L is SJ/^ inches; square down
square up from 22; K is halfway between ]3 and
apply the blade measure from 13 to L and square up; from L back to 31
froiu L to locate M
is yi inch; point N is halfway between H and 31; N to O is lj4 inches.
I'"r(ini
to
to
2!) is
inches
is
inch;
;>4
the
same
same distance as from H to U draw a line from O to 28 A to T is

6% inches T to U is 1J4 inches draw a line from A to U A to V is >^ breast square
i"ch below
from O to S is ^/^ breast
to P
; draw a line from J4
up from V to locate
plus '4 ill"-''
square down from S and shape the back; from X to Y is 1^ inches; square
ddwn from Y from 1 to 2 is J^ inch O to 33 is A breast point Z is halfway between Y and
37: i)oint 3 is ^ inch above the waistline; shape the sidebody.
From A
to 28
is
the
THE FOREPART.
I<"rum
less than
M
'.(-,
draw
a line
and
inch:
to 4
is
yi waist; sijuare
down from
from
3 to
34
draw a line from

draw a line from
is
7 to 23 is
from
11 to J4 is ^2
14 to 34,
>4
inch
inch
and 4; point G is halfway between L

7 to
we go down from
halfway between
through 6 up from A to
point 5
S(|uare forwards from 7 by line 5-G
by
line 5-6
desired
l.)4
this locales
inch less than
to
inch
shape the shoulder
armscye.
an<l
(I
breast; this being a coat for a stout figure,
this locates
7 to 8 is >^
S.'j
breast
inches; from Z to Y,
7 to 9 is li breast plus
sipiare forwards
from
draw a line from 9 to 35 from 9 to 10 is the depth of the gi irge

draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge from 4 back to 17 is
to 29 and 17 to 21 is the waist measure net; shape the side of
;
forepart.
From
tlic
35 to 27
IJ^ inches; from 4 to 33 is the same; shape the front edge; (dace
make a ma.rk at 3() draw a straight line from 16 to 14;
where the two lines cross; from t l)ack to .38 is gi/ inches; sweep from
is
straight edge tn line 14-4 and
cut out a small
38 fcnwards pivoting at 36;

llic
hollow the forepart slightly between
and the
and shape
hnttdni of forepart.
THE
SKIRT.
F'rom IG up to 24 is 1J4 inches; draw a line from 13 to 34 and by that line square down
from 24 to 25 is 9 inches from 25 to 26 is lyi inches draw a line from 24 through 26
inch more than from S to 18; from 14 to 15 is the same distance
down; from 34 to 19 is
finish the skirt as shown rounding it -><i
as 34 to 19; square down from 20 by the waistline
to 25
inch at 36.
DIAGRAM
69
in
142
DIAGRAM
70
SINGLE-BREASTED PADDOCK OVERCOAT.

The measurements
as taken o\er the waistcoat are as follows:
Indentation
J/2
Strap
inches
Scye depth
dyi inches
1G.)4 inches
l-'ashionahle waist length
1SJ4 inches
length according to style.
I'ull
12J4 inches
18
inches
Overshonlder
Blade
ISJ^ inches
Breast
39
inches
Waist
35i/2
inches
From
to
the scye depth plus
is
length plus yi inch;
and 19;
From C
til
32
to 15 is
ly
is
inch
is ^j4
draw
to 33
is
inch
to 19
to
is
^4 inch;
is full
and F; square out from C,

a line
from
through R to
the same; from 32 to
is
F.
is
B, 19,
is
natural waist
halfway between
C, D and E.
and square down
breast;
'/z
to
length;
to
if,
from
lyi inches;
K to L is Syi inches; square down from L

halfway l)etween 32 and
measure from 32 to L which is 13)4 inches and square up; L back
y2 inch; sipiare up and down from 15; N is halfway between H and 15; from N to
to 14 is
In locate
to
ly^ inches;
is
to
halfway between
is
3/4
or Ij^ inches;
is II/2
inch
is
apjjly the blade
inches.
same dstance as from IT tn ); draw a line fmm O to 2-1; from A

draw a line from A to U; from A to V is %
111 T is Gfg inches; T to L' is I'j inches;
draw a line from y^ inch below
to P
breast square up from \' to locate \V
Q to S is ^
square down from S and shape the
breast plus y inch or make the distance to suit the style
back; from X to Y is 1 14 inches; square down from Y; from 1 to 2 is .^4 inch; O to Z is
1^ breast; point 22 is halfway between 29 and Y;
point 3 is 3^4 inch above the waistline;
From A
to 24
the
is
>hape the sidebody.
THE FOREPART.
M
From
than
!i'i
draw
to 1
a line
to locate
to i:; is j inch less
square down from
from
])oiiU
is halfway between L and
halfway between M and
J;
and L to 7 is the stra]) measure plus
through G up; from A to
inch;
to P
to !'; shape the shoulder and armscye.
7 to 31 is -'s inch less than
waist
is J/i
point 5
breast;
fmm
tlraw a line from 7
is
'
(i
is 'i l)reast plus I2 inch; draw a roundby line 5-1! from 7 to

from 9 to 10 is 'h l)reast or to suit tlie style; 7 to 8 is 3^^ breast; draw a
line from S tn 10 and shape the gorge; 11 to ;)0 is 1^4 inches; 4 to 31 is the same; 4 back to 27
is 334 inches: from 22 to ^', X to 33 and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net; shape the side of
Sc|uare forwards from
ing line from
to 14
~i
!i
forepart.
Draw
25 to 26
a line
from
134 inches
is
the skirt rounding

;
through
draw
3 to
24;
a line froin 24
down from 21 from 24 to 25 is 9 inches;

through 2G down from 24 to 18 is 34 inch more
square
shape the front edge and finish

This skirt cuts open to point Hi and from there a fish is
the front of the coat and skirt are left in one piece.
than from S to 17
taken out
13
from 13 to 28
it
;Vs
is
inch at 2G.
3^ inch less than 24 to IS
DIAGRAM
TO
]4;i
Ml
DIAGRAM
71
DOUBLE-BREASTED PALETOT.
The measurements
inches
Strap
12
inches
inches
17
inches
16>^ inches
Overshoulder
Blade
1SJ4 inches
Breast
12>4 inches
36
inches
Waist
32
Indentation
Scye depth
Full length to suit style.
inches
From A
length plus
and 30;
to
the scye depth plus
is
inch;
to
1^
is
halfway between
is
inch
y:^
inches;
to
to
;Jii
is
and F; square out
is
full
J4 inch
to
is
length;
frcim
(I,
F, B, 30,
is
natural waist
halfway between
C, D and E.
back from F through R to Q and

same from 13 to I is 3^ breast I to
K to L is 3i/^ inches;
is halfway between 13 and 1
inch;
K
to
22
is
inches;
is
I
Y^
J
1J4
apply the blade measure from 13 to L which is 12^
s(|uare dnwn from L to locate
inches and square up; from L back to 31 is ^4 inch; square up from 31.
From C to R is
down from
scjuare
>^ indentation; shape the center of
to 13
is
]>^ inches
to 29
is
the
fViinl
halfway between
is
and 31; from

from ()
to
is
}4 inches;
from
6^
same distance as J I to
draw a line from i\ to U; A to \' is \i breast; square up from V
to P; from O to S is V/, inches; 24 to 18 is
\V; draw a line from ^ inch below
draw a line from S to 18 and shape the back.
O; draw
the
is
\y2 inches;
a line
to 28;
from
to
is
to 28
inches;
to
is
to locate
5 inches;
from Y to 25 is 9
through 26; from 16 to 19 is the same
to 4 is ^^
inch; square down from K; from
distance as from S to 18; from 1 to 2 is
and 4; point 6 is halfway between L and J draw a line
waist; point 5 is halfway between
and L to 7 is the strap measure plus ^4 inch draw a line
from 5 through 6 up from A to
to P
from T to P from 7 to 23 is y& inch less than
is li breast plus J.^ inch; draw a rounding
square forwards from 7 by line 5-6; from 7 to
From
to
inches; 25 to 26
is
is
inch;
square
IJ^ inches;
draw
down from
a line
from
^'
this locates point IG;
l(i
1)
line
from
9 to 22.
draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the

gorge; 22 to 27 is 3>^ inches; 4 to 32 is the same; M to 20 is ^ inch; draw a line from
this locates 4; from 4 to 5 is J/^ breast; from 4 back
211 to 32 and square down from 32;
to 17 is 2J'< inches; apply the waist measure from X to 29 and 17 to Y and suppress the
add Y^ inch round at 26.
balance between Z and 21
From
9 to fO is Jo breast; 7 to 8 is y^ breast;
DIAGRAM
71
145
146
DIAGRAM
72
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT

The measurements
Indentation
lyz inches
Strap
12i/^
inches
Scye depth
9^
17^
inches
IQyi inches
Overshoulder
Blade
13
inches
]8^
Breast
38
inches
Waist
S-ijA
inches
inches
inches
From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 inch; B to 30 is

inch
A to C is natural waist
length plus ^1 inch; C to D is 1^ inches;
to E is full length; F is halfway between
A and 30; G is halfway between A and F; square out from (1, F, B, 30, C, D and E.
From C
down; from
to 13
inches; J to 22
down from L
to
is
is
indentation; draw a straight line from

ly, inches;
is
inch;
to locate
to 20
is
the same:
K is halfway between 13 and I;

apply the blade measure from 13 to
up; L back to 31 is
inch; square up and
and 31 N to O is ]>4 inches.
down from
31
13 to
through
I
to
and square
J^ breast; I to J is IJ/S
to L is 3^ inches; square
is
L which
point
is
is
13 inches and square

halfway between H
From
6^
inches
up from
plus
to 28 is the
to
to locate
is 1^/2
square
inch or to style:
From X
same distance as H to O draw a line from O to 28 A to T is

draw a line from A to U from A to V is 'A breast square
draw a line from % inch below
from Q to S is ^/^ breast
to P
inches
down from S and shape
the back.
down from Y; from 1 to 2 is ^ inch; O to 33

halfway between the line squared down from 31 and Y; point 3
inch above the waistline; shape the sidebody.
breast;
to
point
is
is
is
jA
1^4 inches; square
is
THE FOREPART.
From
down from 4; from 11 to 14 is y2 inch less than %

halfway between
and 4; point 6 is halfway between L and J; draw a
line from 5 through 6 up
A to \V and L to 7 is the strap measure plus
inch
draw a line
from 7 to P; 7 to 23 is }i inch less than the back shoulder width: shape the shoulder and
to 4 is i^ waist;
breast; point 5
square
is
>'4
arm scye.
Square forwards from by line S-fi 7 to 9 is 'A breast plus J4 '"^"'i îl'' /4 '""-''i fi^r scam
4 and shape the front from 9 through 22 down to 14; from 9 to 10 is Vt breast; 7
to 8 is 3/^ breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge; 4 back to 17 is 2%
inches; Z to Y, X to 29 and 17 to 21 is the waist measure net.
']
in front of
THE REVER.
Draw
a straight line at 14-4
Draw
a straight line
up to 36; sweep from 10 to 3(5 pivoting at 14; sweep from 14

forwards to 20 and backwards pivoting at 36; shape the bottom of forepart, including the
rever.
Make the width of the rever according to style.
THE
from
1(3
SKIRT.
into the front
sweep;
this locates 12;
from 16 to 24
is
1J4
draw a line from 12 to 24 and square down; from 24 to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26 is 1^

inches draw a line from 24 through 26 down 24 to 19 is J4 '"ch more than S to 18 14 to 15
finish the
is the same distance as from 24 to 19; square down from 20 by the waistline;
inches;
skirt
rounding
it
Ys inch at 26.
DIAGRAM
72
147
MS
DIAGRAM
73
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE.

as taken over the waistciiat are as fulluws:
The nu-;isurements
9^
Scye depth
Full length according to
inches
18;>4
inches
inches
1!)
14 inches
43 inches
44 inches
Breast
Waist
style.
13>4 inches
Strap
down and
Scjuare
From A
to
is
length plus >4 inch;
Oxershoukler
Blade
inches
17
and 30;
out from A.
the scye depth plus 34 inch; B to :10 is J4 inch;

to E is full length;
is 1^4 inches;
C tt>
halfway between
is
and F; square out from
to
is
is
natural waist
halfway between
F^ B, 30, C, D and E.
( i,
from A through R to Q and square down from

H to lo is ]_!/ inches; R to 29 is the same; 13 to I is 1^ breast; I to J is 1>^ inches; J to
from K to L is 3^1 inches;
22 is 1 inch; square up fmni 22; K is halfway between 11 and I
square down from L to locate M; apply the blade measure from 13. to L which is Flinches
N is halfway beand square up; L back to 31 is >4 inch; square up and down from 31
From C
to
^4 inch
is
draw
a line
tween
and
From N
from
\'
to
to
to 28
is
to
is
waist;
From
to 14
is
11
inches;
34 breast plus >4 '"^'b
square
is
to
3;!
down from
inch less than
'_.
IT
to
is
breast;
14 to 34
is
draw
a line
from
i)oint
through
W and L to
inch; from
.>:4
is
(i
and
back to 17
\'
from
point
1;
is
is
;4
to 2
point 3
10;
forepart,
the
of
;
down from
halfway lictween
to
4; this locates 11.

'.,
inch above the waistline; shape the sidebody, also the side
and 1
point .5 is halfway between
it about ys inch at 3;
and
to
draw a line from 34 ''i^'li below \V
square down from .S and shape the back; from
the waist measure net; square
breast;
iV
is
U
locate W;
\'
square up from
and
to 29
inch;
-14
is
brea.st
y^
to 4
to 28 is the .same distance as FT to (); draw a line

1^4 inches; from
to U
is 1^ inches; draw a line from
from A tt) T is Gji inches; T to
/(.
P; from
is
31.
is
3^
overlapping
halfway between L
up.
y inch; draw a line from 7 to P;

shoulder
back
width;
from 7 to 23 is ji inch less than the
plus y inch; square out from
"i-G
from
to
9
is
Vf,
breast
7
square forwards from 7 by line
of
and shape the front edge
3,');
front
for
in
se;im
add 34 i'H'h
by line .Vd this locates
From A
to
7 is
(1
from
through 35 down to
Draw
across; 39
a line
is
wdiere
hollowing
l.art,
from
it
:'.
tiie
37.
phu
to 34;
two
slightly
square to point
llic
lines cross; cut out
between
and
.1
small
\'
.ind
Itl-ll
at
3i)
draw
shape the
straight
line
i)ottt)m of fore-
39.
THE REVER
sweep from U) to ;i(i pi\oting at 37 from 14 back
from 37 up to
and shape the l)ottom of
234 inches; sweep from 38 forwards to 20 pi\oting at
Draw
to 38 is
a straight line
:)V>
:'.(!
forepart.
THE
SKIRT.
from l(i to 21 is 1>4 inches;

has been located by drawing the line from Ifi to
draw a line from 12 to 24 and square down 24 to 25 is 9 inches 25 to 26 is 1>4 inches draw
from 24 to 19 is 34 inch more than from S to IS 37 to 15 is
a line from 24 through 26 down
the same distance as 24 to 19; square down from 20 by the waistline; finish the rever to
Point
12
style
and round the
skirt y& inch at 26.
DIAGRAM
7;J
149
150
DIAGRAM
74
SHELL FOR FUR COAT.

The measurements
Scye depth
Waist length
length
Fvill
48
whatever the
(or
Overshoulder
Blade
17
13J/2
inches
inches
Breast
36
inches
inches
Waist
33
inches
inches
16)4 inches
style calls for).
Strap
13
This coat
two inches over
to be increased
is
inches
to the scye depth, jX inch to the strap,
the breast, waist and seat
also add
inch
inch tn the o\ershoulder and Yz inch to the blade.
This makes the measurements as follows

Scye depth
9^ inches
Strap
133/2 inches
Overshoulder
VtVi inches
Blade
13 inches
Breast
38 inches
Waist
34 inches
From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 incii, in this case 9^^ inches; B to 18 is Y^ inch;
from A to C is the waist length plus -)4 inch C to D is 6 inches; A to E is full length F is
halfway between A and 18; G is halfway between A and F; square out from G, B, 18, C, D
and E.
;
From C
to 3
to 2 is
\y2 inches;
is
inch
3 to
draw
a line from
H is J^ of 38 breast; H
H K to L is 3^/2 inches;
and scjuare down
to 3
to I
is
1^4 inches;
this locates
from
to J is J4 inch;
is
to locate
apply the

square down from L
Q
blade measure plus an extra Yz inch from 3 to L, in this case 13 inches and square up L back
is halfway between 1 and 15;
to N is \Ya inches; square up and
to 15 is Y2 inch;
down from N; this locates point 6; from 6 to 19 is 1 inch; 6 to 30 is 3J4 inches; draw a
inch; P to 5 is J/2 inch.
line from N through 19 down; this locates 7; from N to P is
;
From
A to 8
is
6^^ inches; 8 to 9
is
draw
1>4 inches;
a line from
square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from 11 to
of 38 breast;
A to 9; A to 10 is Vh
O and shape the back.
THE FOREPART.
Draw
through 30 down; hollow the side seam at the waist about

inch;
from
31
is
the
same
length as from P to 7; from Q to S is 3/2 of 34 waist;
5 to
Ya
point T is halfway between O and S
point U is halfway between L and I draw a line from
from
T through U up
A to 11 and L to V is the strap measure plus .54 inch, in this case 13^4
shape the
inches
draw a line from V to O from V to Z is
inch less than 11 to O
shoulder and armscye.
from
a straight line
Square forwards from V by line T-U from V to 4 is '0 breast plus Yj, inch draw a
rounding line from 4 to S from V to Y is )^ breast; make the distance from 4 down to the
gorge Vb breast and shape the gorge; from J to 13 is 3)4 inches; S to 13 is the same; from
Q to R is 1 inch; square down from 13 by line R-13 this locates point 16; from 16 to 17 is
shape the front edge and bottom of forepart.
Yi. of 38 breast
;
THE COLLAR.
The backpart
Square up from
11
by
A-9 and square up from
line
by the same
line,
1^4 inches; 11 to 33 is the same; draw a line from 34 to 33; from 33 to X is

1 Ya inches
34 to
is the same
from 34 to 35 is the width of the collar desired plus Y2
inch which is to be shaped of? later on; 33 to 34 is the same; shape the Ijackpart of the
from
to 34
is
collar as
shown.
The
front part of the collar:
From 29 to
\Ya inches; draw a line through 38 for the

from 27 to 36 is 1)4 inches; place the square to line
38
is
break of lapel this locates point 30

38-31 and square up until the right angle touches at 14
square back from 31 this locates 32
shape the collar stand from 26 through 30 to 33 from 37 to 33 is the same distance as from 23
to 84 on the backpart of the collar; shape the collar from 33 through 33 into the front break
;
line.
Now
cut out the
two parts
of the collar
point 34 to 33, and reshape the collar.
and place them together,
jioint
33 to 37 and
DIAGRAM n
151
jr)2
DIAGRAMS
75
&
76.
THE SLEEVE.
Diagrams 75 and 76 show how to measure the armhole for the sleeve. Measure the
armscye closely, beginning at 1 through 2 and up to 3; now let us say that this armhole
measures 19 inches; proceed as follows point 3 is ] inch above the breast line and is the
front notch; for the back go up J4 of the armscye from the breast line and place the notch
:
there.
Place the back shoulder along the front shoulder as shown on diagram 76; point b is
now measure the distance on a straight line from the front notch to the
back notch: this distance is 934 inches; make your sleeve as shown in the following way.
the back notch:
DIAGRAM
A
77
armscye; from B to C is the same distance as from -1 to 5,

inch always
which is the distance from the back notch to the breast line; from B to D is
full
length of
to
E
is
breast
line:
B
notch
from
the
which is the same distance as the front
little
with
very
wadup
This
is
be
made
sleeve
to
square out from C, B and E.
the sleeve
from
to
B,
distance
A
make
the
ding; should a regular pad be desired for the sleeve head,
from
tlie
the
same
as
renuiins
Vi armscye plus % inch, but the distance from B to C always
From
to
is >5
of the
breast line to the notch.
From D to K is U^ inches which is the same distance as from 2 to on a straight line

is halfway between L and B
square down from K; this locates L; point
(diagram 76)
square up from M; this locates points O and N; point P is halfway between A and N;
draw a line from P to D place the square to line O-E and square back from E to U is the
widtli of the sleeve desired plus 1 inch for seams.
.J
where an underarm fish is cut nut. make the distance from

'j inch; in sack coats or overcoats where no underarm lisli is cut out, make the
K
ilistance from K to V, J4 inch in this case from K to V is yi inch add J4 '""-''i width on top
from B to G is 1^ inches;
of the undersleeve at V for a seam; draw a line from V to M
E to H is the same; B to 1 is the same distance as B to G E to J is the same distance
hollow the upper and undersleeve as at Q and R, .>^ inch and add the same amount
as E to H
from S to T and shape the sleeve in shaping the undersleeve go up froiu 1 to F a full 34 incdi.
Ill
frock coats or sack coats
til \'
DIAGRAM
76
DIAGRAM r
153
DIAGRAM
78
In a case of measuring the armhole on a frock coat, proceed in the same manner as
described on diagrams 75 and 76. but before measuring the distance from the back notch to
the breast line, let the back uxerlap the sidebody a JS inch before measuring same.
DIAGRAM
79
This sleeve is made the same as shown on diagram 77 with the exce|)tioii that it is
cut half and half, therefore add a seam at D which is an extra ^ inch to the upper and
under sleeve as shown and fmish the same as the other sleeve.
DIAGRAM
an extra easy sleeve
If
to
is }4
the armscye
from B
is
desired,
to
is
inch always
make your
80
slee\ e as
same distance
the
from
shown
as from
tlic
in
this
diagram.
From
breast line to the back
shown on
halfway between I and B; square
this locates points O and N
point P is halfway between A and N
up from
draw a line
from P to D from I down to S in this case is
inch
place the square to S-B and square
down this locates point H square back from H by line O-H and make the width of the
slecxe according to style and linisli the same as shown in diagram 77.
notch
Diagram
to
76; square
is 1
down from
to
this locates I
is
the width of the sleeve as

is

U1A(.RAM
DIAGRAM
78
?9
DIAGRAM
80
155
l-^>'^
DIAGRAM
81
In cutting sleeves for overcoats, the same iiietliod is used as for under coats. The only
change made is that the overcoat sleeve is cut l)j inches larger around the wrist than an
imder coat slee\e of the same size would he
'l"o measure tlie armhole for a Box (Jvercoat, proceed as follows: do not add the overhq) as from
to 2 in the measuring of the armholes, but hegin as at A and measure around through 2 straight up to B; for the overlap
and 2 there is an addition made on the undersleeve.
between
]
DIAGRAM
82
SLEEVE FOR BOX OVERCOAT.

The
size of this
armhole
is
".'
1
inches; the width of the slecxc cm a straight line
is
lU
inches.
down and
S(|uare
I'rom
to
15
is
'
out frinn A.
.!
(if
the armscye
to
from U to K is K.l inches;

halfway between L and B square up from
way between A and N; draw a line from I' to
niilinng at K but draw a line from K to V
this
overlaii "' I'"-" arndiole finm
to 2 (diagram
shown.
out Irom
C and
l]
I'roui
to
I'L
is ^,4
is
tlie
sleeve lengtli
in
of the arinsc_\e;
square
this locates points
D; from
back to
gi\es the e.xtra
81);
to
11
down from K;
add on
j/.
and
is
inch that
seam
is
inch
j/2
point
square
L;
half-
this h.icates
inch;
is
is
take out
is
retpiired for the
to the
imdersleeve as
the case of an o\ercoat, the sleeve
is
cut the
same length as for the under coat there is no need to adtl an\ length because the backpart
and shoulder having become wider and the armhole deeper, this gives sufficient length to
the sleeve by making it the same length as the under coat square back from E by line O-E.
;
From E
and will make

would be. Add from B to
G 1% inches and from E to H the same; reduce the underslee\e from B to 1 and E to J
the same amount as has been added to the upper sleex e IkiIIow at O and R, j'i inch and add
the same amount from S to T.
it
to
in this case is
''1^2
inches
this will finish the slee\-e ]! inches
ly^ inches wider than an under coat sleeve of the
same
size
DIAGRAM
82
57
158
DIAGRAMS
&
84.
narrow shoulder manipulate the sleeve as follows
h'ur a
ers natural
width
by natural width,
the distance from
Now
83
see
to 2 at least
diagram
83,
mean
first
of
all
that after the back width
cut
is
all
your should-
squared up, make
inch.
After the pattern
now
is
finished with the natural shoulder,
measure
draft the sleeve for the natural arniscye and pro-
the arniscyc and
mark
ceed as follows;
place the back shoulder along the front shoulder and reshape the shoulder
width, see diagram
Now
line
(i-4
.see
u])
8:5,
diagram
the notches;
broken
84.
line,
but do not cut out.
Place the original back notch to the sleeve head as at
and make the notch as
at 4;
now
lengthen the undersleeve as from 3 to 4 to

shape.
reshape
make
it
as
indicated
by the
.T
extend
broken
line;
correspond with the upper sleeve and
re-

DIAGRAM
8;i
DIAGRAM
81
159
Hi"
DIAGRAM
85
RAGLAN OVERCOAT.
The nieaMircmeiUs a.s taken over the waistcuat are as follows:
Overshonldcr
Scye depth
^J'/i inches
Blade
inches
17
Waist length
Breast
Full length whatever style calls for.
Waist
inches
Strap
^''^H
18
inches
13^
inches
39
inches
35^
inches
From
}^
1'"
to
scye depth plus
is
inch;
to
is
^4 inch;
to
waist length plus
is
halfway between A and C; G is halfway between A and

square out from G, B, C, D and E.
inch; draw a line from F through 2 down; this locates 22; square
From D to 3 is
inch;
;
length;
full
is
is
from 1 to 31 is iy2 inches; 31 to H is I/2 breast; H to I is 1)4 inches; I to J

Kto L is 31/2 inches; square down from L to
is ^J/^ inch; K is halfway between 31 and H
to
from
31
blade
measure
L which is 13)4 inches and square up; L back
apply the
locate y
1.");
and 15; from
from
down
point
JNI is halfway between
til J5 is y'j inch; square up and
to N is 1^ inches; square up from N.
out from 22;
is IJ/2 inches; draw a line from A to 9

A to 10 is
from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from 1 1 to O and shape the back;
square down from -1 to locate 19
point 4 is where the armhole crosses the breast line
from 19 to 6 is 1^ inches; G to 20 is 1^/2 inches draw a line from 4 through 6 down this locates ] and draw a line from 4 through 20 down from 4 to 18 is the same distance as from 4
point L' is halfway beto T; from 3 to S is J^ waist; point T is halfway lietween O and .S
From
Vb
to 8
Gya inches; 8 to 9
is
breast; square
uj)
tween L
anil
draw
from
a line
4'
through
up.
imh draw a line from \' to O;

shape
shouhlciand armscye; square forwards
the
to Z is ; incli less than
fnmi
\'
\'
to J;
plus
rounding line from
breast
inch;
draw
a
is ;
to
from
by line 4'-l'
y
from
to
breast;
shape
the
gorge;
Y is >^
Q to
W to X is the depth of the gorge desired; V
by
line
to
down
from
J3
12 is the same; square
K is iy4 inches; S to i:i is y inches; J
iMMm A
to
II
and
to
is
the strap
\'
measure plus
to 2i;
R-13
this locates Hi.
l'"rom
I
to J\
]()
to 17
breast;
is y^,
and
134 inches
fi-om
"i
shape the front edge and bottom of forepart;

the same and reshape the liackpart.
to
now add from
.">
measure the armhole the same as shown on Diagram 81, that is, from 30 down to
inch aliove the lower breast line; from the lower
point 15 is
through
4 up to 21
and
make
the back notch at I. The measurements for this
of
arniscyc;
lluis
i)reast line to 14
Now
i."j
armhole are as follows:
Armscye circumference
Back notch
In
lower
at 14 to
this co.at
it
is
brc.ist line
31 yi
inches
5^-^
inches
not necessary to take the width of the anuhole from notch to notch on a
on the backpart from 11 into the armhole; place the square to

inch more or
that line until the right angle touches at 34; go out from 33 to 25 about
armhole.
into
the
25
less according to style and sha|ic the backpart as from II through
straight line;
now draw
a line
THE FOREPART.
Draw
a line as
from
to 15;
place the square to that line until the right angle touches
from \' to 26 is y, incli
shape the front part from 26
:!(i;
from 29 to 31 is y inch;
through 31 to 15; now measure the distance on the backpart from the notch up to 11; in this
case it is 7j/^ inches; measure the distance on a straight line from 15 to 26, in this case
at
it is
10 inches.
Measure the width

it
is
inches;
now
of the shoulder at the narrowest point as from 27 to 38. in this case
proceed with your sleeve as follows:
dia(;ram
8r
161
162
DIAGRAM
THE
S(|uar(_' iliiwii aiiil
nut
86
SPLIT SLEFA'E.
mi A.
I'ri
D to C is the same distance as from the breast line up

to D is Kj of the armscye
iiicli
square out from C and D; from 1'- to F is y^ of the
back notch; D to E is
armscye; square U]) and down from K; this locates (i p<iint N is halfway l)et\veen D and (i:
this locates |)oints Z and X.
square up and down from N
From A
to the
From D to B is the slee\e length; scpiare l);ick from Fi l)y line Z-B from B to () is tiie
inch; draw a line from F' to II and shape
width of the sleeve desired; from N back to II is
the under sleeve; from V to T is Y^ inch less than the distance from the back notch up to 11,
;
'
_-
case 7!s inches.
in tliis
F"rom
\i
to
is
the
same distance
as from
to
1">
.'(>,
in this
case 10 inches; from
to
sweep from O to R pivoting at F.

sweep from T to U pivoting at F' sweep from W forwards to R and backwards to U pivoting
this locates Y.
at X; from U to \' is Y^ inch; R to S is the same; draw a line from R to
Hollow the sleexe from Y to I the same amou;it as the shoulder has l)een rounded from 29 to
:11
draw a line from \' to X and from S to X point P is halfway between O and B draw a
line from Z tlirough X down to P; add -'s inch or '^ inch each side of line Z-P and rut out the
is
the
same distance
as from
to 27, in this ca
;iiS
-.e
(i
inches
!",
reduce the sleexe frcpm
sleexe;
to
\'
inch and
'^
1.
DIAGRAM
rniisii.
87
from A to B is Yi of the armto

back
notch
the
is the same distance as from the
lower l^reast line; I! to 1)
scye; B
'_>
of
and
down
from K; this locates L;
the armscye; s(piarc up
is
inch; from 1) to K is
this locates (); M to Y is y'j inch;
point M is halfway between P> and L; square up from M
to 21) on diagram 85; from K to 1 is the same
from 1) to Z is the same distance as from
distance as from hack notcii up to 11.
whole
If a
to
proceed as in this diagram:
sleex'e is desired,
(_"
l.'J
.\dd irom
to
\'
amount
the s.anic
as has been cut off from the actual b.ackpart at
to its present raglan style l>ack. in this case
it is
swee[) forwards from
inch;
Ji.'j
L; sweep backxv.ards from Z iiixutingat M; this locates point P; draw

line from 2 ti,) \', ;dso draw
line from \
D; from 1' to is inch; draxv
at
".'
:\
;i
from
Ilolloxv tiie sleeve
'^
to
shape the undersleexe

finish the same as other sleeves.
29 to
.'!l
the s.ame
straigiit
In sewing up the side of this sleeve,
tile
amount
froni
uprier
sleexe
L and
al)out
inch aliove the notch to witliin about
draw the
y^ inch
er.
\'.
sleeve in
between
The
'4
and
best
way
to sexv in this
inch, also lay

\'
;
your
lajie
press the fullness
sleeve
line
II
pivoting
from P to
to Y.
as the shoulder has been rounded from
down
itetween
is
and shape the
\'
is
as
to
be fulled
folloxvs:
U|)])er
in
sleexe and
al)OUt
inch beloxv the shoukler point at
inch beloxv 2 and
away on both
'S
incli
put the stay in from
draw
P and
that part in about
sides liefore joining to the should-
DIACUAM
86
DIAGRAM
87
163
Kii
DIAGRAM
88
BALMACAAN.
cut the
This coat
cut same by proportion.
Breast
is
same as
either the
Box Coat
or the
Raghm
Coat, therefore \vc will
inches
38
34/2 inches
Waist
Heighth
ft..
is
7 ins.
Frt)m
to
is
breast plus 3>i inches;
to
is
inch;
to
heighth plus
14
halfway between A and C; G is halfway between A and F;

E
.54 inch;
E.
and
D
C.
B,
from
G,
square out
down; this locates 22; square
draw
a line from F through
From D to 2 is ^4 inch;
H to I is iy2 inches; I to J
to
breast;
H
is
inches;
21
>4
(lut from 22; from 1 to 21 is 1>4
inches; .square up and down
to
is
H;
K
L
and
from
21
3><
is ->4 inch; K is halfway between
from
15.
and
down
square
up
from L; L back to 15 is >^ inch;
length;
is full
is
>'
Point
is
halfway between
and 15;
to
I34 inches; square up from
is
to 8 is 6}i inches; 8 to ! is 1/2 inches; draw a line from

draw a line from 11 to
square up from 10 to locate 11
;
A
O
to
f)
from
to 10
''6
is
and shape the back;
from
breast;
point
-1
is
where the armhole crosses the breast line; square down from 4; this locates 19; from 19 to
through 6 to 7 and from 4
6 is IV2 inches; from (J to 20 is 33/ inches; draw lines from 4
waist.
distance
from 3 to S is
to
as
from
4
7
same
the
18
is
2i>
4
to
to
18
through
Point T is halfway between O and S; point U is halfway between L and I; draw a line
from T through U up; from A to 11 and L to V is }i of 38 breast plus 4 inches, in this case
from V to Z is ^ inch less than the back shoulder
I31/2 inches; draw a line from V to O
;

is li breast plus yi inch
draw a rounding
Square forwards from V by line T-U V to
\' to Y is
breast
draw a line from Y to X and
\V to X is 'A breast
to J
line from
shape the gorge | to 12 is 1>4 inches S to 13 is the same; Q to R is 134 inches; square
down from 13 by line R-Ki; this locates Hi; Pi to 17 is Vs breast; shape the front edge and
width
licittoni
forepart.
of
THE COLLAR.
Draw
a line from
through
shirt collar for a 38 breast
is
\'
from Xto 29
halfway between 29 and X;

29 through 31 to X.
from
the collar
point 30
of the shirt collar size;
is y'z
from
15 inches, therefore the distance
is
square up from 30; 30 to 31
to 29
is
is
the normal
lyi inches;
shape
]>4 inches;
place the square to points 29-32 and square out to 34; from
shape the collar stand
33
is
1>4 inches; X to 39 is ^2 inch
32 to 34 is l>i inches; 39 to
is
square
to points 33-35 and
35
inch
place
the
to
34
}i
from 33 through 34 to 39 from
to
and 39 to 38 are
of
the
collar
desired;
34
37
width
square out to 30; 33 to 3(1 is the
From
29 to 32
is
breast;
the
same
shape the collar as shown and
This collar stand

the collar size as
for an overcoat.
it is
is
to be stretched until
it
folds over as
shown by
the crease line
be two inches larger than the shirt collar which is correct

measure the armscye as from 24 through 15 and 4 up to O; the cir-
now
Now
finish.
will
armscye is 21 inches; point 15 is 1 inch above the lower breast line;

cumference
now draw a straight line on the
line to back notch is 54 armscye
breast
lower
from the
line until the right angle touches
jilace
the
square
to
that
armscye;
to
the
11
from
backpart
of this
at
O.
Add from
27 to 28, >2 or
.>4
inch rounding and shape the backpart
draw
on the
a line
make
place the square to that line until the right angle touches at Z
forepart from 15 to V
'4
to
is yi
inch
from
V
style,
about
25
to
this
case
in
the distance from 23 to 26 according
;
inch
shape the forepart from 25 through 26 into
15.
DIAGRAM
88
JG5
166
DIAGRAM
Now
as
cut
lilt
the tiirepart ami Ijackpart. place
shown on diagram
much
from C
to
frcim
to
F and F
1'^
as
to
opened from C to D.
S'.\
split the
them
hackpart a< Inmi
as desired, ni this case al)Oiit
H; open from
11 to
89
side
ti.>
oj.^
the same
seam
to side
B and B
inches,
amount
b>
alsci
as
the
seam and
jjioceed
open the liackpart
sjilit
the
forejiart
backpart
lias
as
been
DIAGRAM
89
168
DIAGRAM
(Diagram
til
90).
The
90
forepart and backpart being
now
in
one piece fold pattern over un-
both sides of the armscye as shown come together as at letter A. also the distance from
to 2 should be about
IJ/4
inches; crease the pattern
down
as shown.
DIAGRAM
90
16!l
1^"
DIAGRAM
i\'ii\\
and
take
(liagiaiii !M
line B,
C and
!"
91
rei)reseiit the line
this practically cuiistitutes the center of the coat;
ol the
arnihole desired,
in thi>
case
it
is
ure the distance from
notch to C and Ironi
the front notch to
measurements
will
to B, in this case
imw go down from A
inclies; scjiiare
it
is
an<]
he noted on this diagram.
where the pattern was creased,
hack from
oy4 inclies;
1);
now draw
shajjc the arnisc_ve as
to
this locates
lines
slmwn.
from
the
dei)tli
C meas;
tlie
hack
The armscve
^tlMSCVf C/RCUMffUfWE/*
23INCHE5
3^CV. NOTCH
5i
Inches
""^~^
-4-
DIAGRAM
:)L
/ffl
171
DIAGRAM
92
BALMACAAN SLEEVE.
Square down and out
froni A.
From A to B is 'A armscye B to C is the same distance as from the breast Hne to the
back notch which is
armscye; B to D is 1 inch square out from C and B from D to E is
armscye; square up and down from E; this locates Z; point Y is halfway between B
and Z; square up and down from Y; this locates M.
;
From D
to
is
same distance
the
case 1034 inches; from
to
is
from
inch less than from the back notch up, in this case 7ys
as the shoulder width at the narrowest part, in this case
M to O is the same
sweep from P back pivoting at D sweep from N forwards pivoting
forwards and backwards pixoting at M this locates points Q-S.
inches; from
6 inches
as from the front notch up to the shoulder point, in this
at
sweep
draw a line from S to D hollow from VV to X the same

amount as the front part has been rounded from the straight line; hollow out between Q
and E about }i inch Q to R is ^ inch S to T is the same draw lines from R to M and
place the
from T to M take ofT from R to 13, ^ inch from P> to G is the sleeve length
square to M-G and square back.
Draw
a line
from
to E, also
From G to 8 is the width of the sleeve desiretl; point 10 is iialfway between G and 8;
shape the upper sleeve as shown, adding y2 inch each side of line E-H-L-10, from B to F is
square forwards and backwards from F; from
yi the distance of from A to D on diagram 91
F to I is the same distance as from A to B on diagram 91 jjIus ^4 inch for a seam, in this
from F to 1 is 9-34 inches; from I to
case it is 3% inches plus a seam; square down from I
which
F
to
is 9^ inches: add a seam at 2
as
from
1.
distance
same
2
is
the
F and 1 to
is }i inch more than from the
2;from
E
to
3
from
E
to
line
draw
a
and square dowji
;
hack notch to C. (diagram 91)
From
a>
it
is
11^
inches.
% inch more than from the front notch to C shape the upper and unshown and draw lines from J to K and from 3 to 4 from 5 to 6 is the same
from 5 to 7 from 6 to 9 is the same distance as from 7 to 8 shape the .sleeve
to J is
der sleeve as
distance as
in this case
shown and
finish.
DIAGRAM
92
n:i
1^4
DIAGRAM
HOW TO MAKE
T'l;u-e
tlu'
l>ack
|ir(iceed as fullows:
!",
l)v line
A-l'"; this
the hackpart as at
shoulder alongside
draw
a line I'lMni
shoulder should he
II
and
iif
93
SPLIT SLEEVE.
the trout shduhlcf as show
to F:
frnni
to
\i
made narrower than
and the forepart as from G.
is
ii
|s iireast
in tliis iliat^rani
and
square haek Inim
the ordinary shoulder
reshape
DIAGRAM
y;5
Ho
176
DIAGRAM
Tlie Sleeve
the backpart as
is
made
shown
as follows
in this
(diagram
U-i)
94
place
the upper slee\e U> the edge of
diagram, the side seam of the upper sleeve to rest along the
notch of the backpart and shape the shoulder as shown through

the sleeve on that
split
The Forepart (diagram

forepart, notch to notch,
add
to
as shown.
C.
Now
!5)
place
95
the other half of the upper slee\e alongside of the
and the sleeve
heail
to
the
shoulder seam;
through E and the sleeve through F down; sweep from
yi inch for
and B and
line.
DIAGRAM
from
two seams from E
to
H, F to
and
J to
to
shape the shoulder
pivoting at F;
now
reshape the slee\e from

DIABRAM
!)J
DIAGRAM
95
177
1^8
DIAGRAMS
If a
two seam
split
the shoulder has been
follows:
the
line to the
measurement
back notch
is
iov the
5^/2
&
97
proceed as follows: measure the armscye before
slee\ e is desireil,
made narrower
96
the
same
shown on diagram
as
armscye circumference
is
31^
93 and proceed as
inches and from the breast
inches.
From A
is 1
inch;
is
to
is 'j
of the
square out from
armscye; B
C and B;
halfway between B and L;
way between
\\'
and
draw
to
to
is
SJ^ inches which
is
j'',
square up and
a line
from
to
1/4
armscye;
to
armscye; square down from K; point
down from
is
also
draw
this locates
a line from
I' is
to
and
half-
shape
the upper and under sleeve as shown.
From B
A-B-FI
is
to
on the
on diagram OT
the sleeve length
is
fold
split
and
is
square out from
not cut through; after the sleeve
the sleeve on line \\'-M-F.
this
is
locates
cut out. open
it
U
as
line
shown
179
05
<
50
05
<
o
380
DIAGRA1V1S98, 99&
(
Diagram
Notch your sleeve
98)
of the backpart of the coat, point
from
from
to
is
r.
which
to
line
point
is
is
^'4
from C
inch;
to
is
the
backpart of
the
place
tiie
which represents the slee\e notch
to
*4
is
sleeve
alongside
to the Ijack notch;
inch;
shape the sleeve
inch below line L-J.
the notch of the slee\c to the notch
is
I'lace the frcjnt part of the
!!))
shoulder seam;
the width of the sleeê desired; from
through C to B
(Diagram
at
100
sleeve to the forepart of the coat, point E,

of the
armhole and the sleeve head
same distance as from B
shape the sleeve from F through
I.
to J
on Diagram
point
to J;
is
-y^
'JS
to
;
the
from
inch below
C-D.
Sweej) from
II
to
pi\dting at
A; add from F
to
M,
J/,
inch and reshape the slec\e
as per broken line.
To
test
the
two parts
of the sleexe together as
made on
the slcc\c from
of the sleexe, proceed as on
shown on
to
(1
this
diagram; from
on Iîagram
99.
Diagram
to
(]
is
100;
lay the
the addition
two parts
tiiat
has been

DIAGRAM
DIAGRAM
99
98
DIAGRAM
H)0
181
183
DIAGRAM
101
INVERNESS.
The measurements
Scye depth
inches
Blade
12i.^
inches
Waist length
Ki^
inches
Breast
36
inches
Strap
13
inches
Waist
'o2
inches
Overshoulder
17
inches
the scye depth plus j4 inch; B to C is -j^ inch; A to

is full length.
These coats are usually cut fairly long.
down and out from
S(|uare
From A
to
is
length plus j^ inch;
way between A and C; G
From D
to 2 is
out from 23;
from
A.
-34
inch;
to 21
is
draw
a line
from F through
to J
inch;
is }'4
IJ/ inches;
31 to
is
breast;
yi
is
3^
to
IJX
is
inches;
inclies
13J/,
half-
and
F,.
square
locates 23;
tliis
II
is
inches;
square
down
and scpiare up;
and 1."); from M tn N is 1J4 inches; square up and dnwn

halfway between
l!i; from 111 to
is
inches;
back to 30 is ;!'/ inches; draw
1 J/^
lines from N through
down to 7 and from N thniugh 3o down to 18; N to 18 is the same
distance as from N to 7.
Point
from
is
down;
halfway between 31 and TI

K to
from L; ai)])ly the blade measure from 31 to L which is
back to 15 is ^j inch; s(|uare down from 15.
I
halfway between
is
waist
{*
is
this locates point
li
(1
(i
From A
to 8 is
(ij/g,
inches;
8 to D is
1^
draw
inches;
a line
from
to 0;
.\
to 10
is

draw a line from 1 1 to (); from O back to P
IS iy'2 inches; N to 4 is 1 inch; 7 to 5 is thesame; draw a line from 4 to 5 and shape the
back as sliown from 3 to S is J^ waist: point T is halfway between Q and S; point U is
breast;
halfway between
I^
and
draw
from
a line
through
up.
L to \' is the strap measure ])lus 1 inch; draw a line from V to O;

same distance as from 11 to P L to 3.3 is 3!-j inches; square back from
square forwards from \' by line
33; this locates point 24; notch the liackpart on line 23-24
y'2
from
to
is
breast
plus
inch
draw
rounding
line
to J
to X is %
T-U Y
a
breast; V to Y is J/^ breast: draw a line from Y to X and slia])e the gorge.
From A
from
to
to 11 and
."4 is
the
From
,'{,
to 12
is
1^4 inches;
from 13 by line R-13;

bottom of forepart.
S to 13
this locates 16;
is
the.
same;
16 to 17
is
to
inches; square down

shape the front edge and
is I3/4
breast;
THE CAPE.
Extend the breast line back to 25 from L tci 30 is the slee\-e length plus )<4 inch
sweep from 30 forwards to 28 and backwards to 25 pivoting at \" add from 28 to 39, 1 inch
shape the back from 35 through P and Z to ^^. If the cape is to
from 34 to Z is -l^ inch
it
should
be cut ofif as at X-T-S-38. but if it is to button, add from X to 31,
meet in front,
.S
to 33 the same and shape as per broken line; point 27 is 3 inches from
34 inch, J to 32 and
point 25; this is to be a small open vent.
;
DIAGRAM
10]
18.'!
184
DIAGRAM
102
SQUARE SHOULDERED INVERNESS.

The
same
iiicaMircnicnts are the
diagram
as in
101,
S(juarc diiwn and DUt fnun A.
iM'um
plus
scye deptii plus ^4
iiuli
to
1";
["rom
to 3
out from 22; from
length;
^4 inch;
is
1 to
21
is
is
draw
a line
is
and C;
from E through
]>4 inches; 21 to li
^^ inch;
is
halfway between
inch;
from
D
and E.
square out
G, B, C,
}{l
and
B is the
E is full
to
down;
'i
y, breast;
II
to
is
waist length
halfway between
is
this locates 22;
to
13^ inches;
is
square
I
to J
halfway between 21 and H; K to L is 3j/j inches; square down from L to

locate Q; apply the blade measure from 21 to L and sc|uare up; from L back to 15 is J/^
square up and down from 15.
inch
is
j4 inch;
is
and 15; M to N is .IJ4 inclies; stpiare up and down

halfway between
t<.i
is 1 ^4 incdies;
G to 20 is 3J/2 inches;
draw lines
irvm H
this locates tJ-1
to
td
20
drnvn;
from
is
the
same
distance
as
N
18
thrcjugh
T and from N thnmgh
I'oinl
from
from
N
N
is
j\l
i)
(i
(i
t(j
is
14
breast;
to
4,
lM"om
to 8 is
ii-ya
inches;
S to
!)
is
1)^
draw
inclies;
line
square up from lo to locate 11; draw a line froiu
inch and fruni
11
from
to
to
to
.10
now add from N
same and shape the back.
to 5 the
THE FOREPART.
From 3 to S is 3,2 waist: point T is halfway between O and S; point U is halfway
between L and I; draw a line from T through U up; from A to II and L to V is the strap
inch less than 11 to O; L to
measure plus 1 inch; draw a line from V to (); \' to Z is
23 is 3J4 inches; square back from 23; shape the shouhler and armscye as shown; notch the
back on line 23-24.
.';s
by
line
T-U
to
is
I'ti
breast plus ^< inch
draw
a round-
ing line from \V through J and S; from

to X is % breast; V to Y is j/^ breast; draw a
line from Y through X and shape the gorge; from J to 12 is ^}i inclies; S to 13 is the same;
from
is
3 to
Ys breast
down from
-13 by line R-13;

bottom
of forepart.
is
;
j4 inches;
square
this locates IG;
from 16 to 17
extend the breast line to 25; from L to 30 is the sleeve

as follows
sweep from 30 forwards to 28 and backwards to 25 pivoting at V;
from 28 to 29 is 1 inch; shape the bottom of the cape as shown; from Z to 26 is % breast;
sweep from Z to 27 pivoting at 26; from Z to 27 is IJ^^ inches; draw a line from 27 to 25;
shape the V of the cape as from Z to 26 and the side of the cape from 25 through 27 to 26,
adding }{\ inch round to line 25-27.
The cape
length plus
.54
is
made
inch:
DIAGRAM
JO-i
185
i<5
DIAGRAM
103
SHOULDER CAPE.
Select
overcoat pattern to correspond with the breast measurements required and
ail
mark
proceed as follows:
from
to
to
is
Jj
to
pivoting at
is
inch
breast;
the backpart pattern on a piece of paper at A, B, C,
to
to
is
is
2 inches
to
draw
3J4 inches;
is li
breast
a line from
from B
through
to J
1;
is j/l
and G;
breast
sweep from C
shape the back of the cape as shown, flattening the bottom about }< inch-
DIAGRAM
104
THE FOREPART.
Place the forepart pattern of the overcoat on
shown; from
to
this case 2 inches
point
from
is
to
From
is
from
to
I is Vs
to
breast; point J
is J/<
on the backpart; sweep from
inch less than
is
is
yi inch
to
F on
the
to
to
a line
from
F pivoting
to
at
G
G
to
F on
from
a line
from F to
pivoting at
is
from
through
the
the backpart, in
parallel with the
from the front edge; point
draw
the backpart
paper and mark around as
of
same distance as
draw
134 inches
of the full breast;
inch.
is
to
4 inches from E; sweep from
is
3/i
i^ inch;
piece
to
is
is
1^
inches;
the same.
down; from B
to
from
to
same distance
flatten the
armhole
as
bottom of the cape about

|)IA(;ra.m
DIAGRAM
10^
k).-.
is;
JSS
DIAGRAM
J'he backpart and
the
iVji-epart,
bottom straightened
if
after they arc cut
necessary.
IU5
i_iiit
arc tn he placetl together as at
and
DIAGRAM
105
isi'
100
DIAGRAM
106
SPANISH CAPE.
Select an overcoat pattern to correspond with
is
14.
Draw
the front and back pattern as shown.
A-B-C and mark
place the square to line
breast:
breast
measurement desired and
shown
at
E; from
place the back shoulder alongside of the front shoulder as
proceed as follows:
to
the
lenoth of the cape from
to
see
D-E and
to
down from E;
square
what difference there
a line from
is,
if
measure the
any, between that and the
overcoat length.
Reduce or increase the back from

increased from
to
to
to
P and backwards
the
same amount as has been reduced or
reduce or increase the front part from
been reduced or increased from

distance from
J to
J to
K:
to
1 is
and make the distance from

to
pivoting at
A; reshape
the
to
same distance
to
the
same
the
as
same amount as has
to
sweep from
the bottom and finish.
measure the
forwards
DIACRAAI
11)1!
1!1
AMERICANGARMENT CUTTER
DIAGRAM
107
MILITARY CAPE.
Select an overcoat pattern to correspond with the l)reast
both sliMulders touch
F and
l)et\veen
li,
at
make
or ^4 inch and from
1/2
O; apply
way between
Sweei) from
the
to
shown,
/.
td
after both parts
make
tlie
the same;
to
II to
to
F and
and
reduce the forepart from
to
and H,
L,
('
so
tliat
\vhate\er difference there
and
N; draw
iiivoting at P;
to S
is 5
straight line from
backpart from
jxiint
is
inches; this distance
of drapery desired;
c. the
fmm D
in this (liai;ram,
to
the
h^
N;
add to
same
pnint
I'
M-N
ani(
is
is
mnt
half-
and O.
T: from
amount
the length
the same distance between
as has been increased frnm
from
shown
place the forepart and l)ackpart into a square as
as follows:
measure desired and jtroceed
draw
a line
through
from S
to
lialfway between
may
to
made more
R; shape the
at
II;
draw
a line
or less according to
front
and the front part from
have been cut out, place them together
circle complete.
be
L and
and back parts as

V.
point .S-T and
through
hll in
to S
slightly to
niACRAM
107
]93
194
DIAGRAMS
&
108
109
A HOOD.
The
made
liood is
select an o\erc(iat [)atteni of the size desired;
as follows:
backpart on a sheet of paper and mark around
line
is
the breast line;
from
?>
forepart to overlap the liackjiart
Make
the opening between
gorge of the forepart as from

is;
draw
a line
from C to
from 24 to
is
'j
U
In
is j/,
inch
and
to
is
from S
2."),
from
to A,
breast;
to
inth;
and from
2.")
is
''.~>
In
2)<l
to
is tiie
hood
herein shown, go in from
after
it
to B,
now
to 'M
mark around
point 21
is
llie
the length of hood desired;
seam
to
S;
place the
slundder and
wdiere the lapel crease
line
draw
line
24-M.
After the hood has been fokied,
inch; round the center seam
stretch out the fold and shrink in the center
now
1.
folded into place.
is
U, and
inches;
shape the hood, adding aJiout an inch rounding oxer the
Diagram 109
as
to
as from
it
place the
as indicated.
away
as to line
B;

DIAGRAM
108
DIAGRAM
109
195
196
DIAGRAM no
NAVAL
(This coat
The measurements
OFFICER'S BLOUSE.
worn hy
also
is
policemen.)
Ijicycle
are as follows
Blade
13 inches
Waist
inches
Breast
38 inches
inches
^Vaist
34 inches
inches
Hip
40 inches
i)^ inches
Scye depth
Full length
30
Strap
Overshoulder
17>^ inches
Scjuare
down and
From
to
2^
out from A.
scye depth plus
is
^
A
is full length; F is halfway between

from G, F, B, C, D and E.
inch
and B;
is
waist length
is
to
halfway between
D is
A and
fi
inches;
to
F; square out
from E to 2 and 2 to 22; from

K is halfway between 1 and
J
to locate O; api)ly the blade measure from 1
and L; from 4 to N is 1^
is halfway between
to L which is 13 inches and square U]);
inches; square up from N; tliis locates point R-O.
From C
to 2
is
inch
to 22
is >{.
inch
draw
H is breast; H to I is 1J4 inches; to

H K to L is 3^ inches; scjuare down from L
1
i/^
to
is
a line
.}4
inch;
From R
to
from A to 9 A
below 11 to O;
is
inch; from
to 8
6^
is
inches;
8 to 9
draw
li4 inches;
is
line
draw a line from j4 '"ch

breast; square up from 10 to locate 11
to lo is
and shape the back.
square down from
is 34 waist;
from 2 to
'
i,
")
".
THE FOREPART.
From Q to S is y, waist; point T is halfway lietween
between L and I; draw a line fr<im T through V up: from
measure plus -^^ inch; draw a line from \' to (); \' to Z
shape the shoulder and arm scye.
shoulder width
A
is
and S; point
11 and L to
to
><;
inch
less
U is halfway
V is the strap
than
tiie
back
is y, inch; shape
by line T-V V to 23 is K, breast; 23 to
inches;
to 15 is the
to
11
is
and
down
from
S
S
the front edge from \Y through J
2Jj
is the waist
from
and
to
to
14
31
measure;
5
2
same; from 32 to 3 and 15 to 20 is the seat
from
down
through
from
20
line
18
measure; point 18 is halfway between 5 and 31 draw a
is
from
to
forepart;
16
17
side
of
shape the
18 to 21 is the same distance as from 5 to 7
breast; shape the bottom of forepart.
Stpiare forwards from
f)
Point 27
is
halfway between
29 the surplus
amount from between
facing; from
to 26
and
6 to 33 is
and L; square down from 27; take out between 28 and

18 and 31
the broken line as at 24-25 and 26-33 is the
1>4 inches each, and this is left on the facing for a but;
ton stand-
The
collar for this coat
grams 47 and
48.
is a
standing collar and
is
made
the
same as shown on Dia-
DIAGRAM no
197
198
DIAGRAM
111
COACHMAN'S OR GROOM'S FROCK UNDERCOAT.

The measurements
are as follows
Indentation
lyi inches
Scye depth
Waist length
DJ^ inches
16.)4 inches
1834 inches
inches
Fashional)le waist length

Full length
31)
Strap
1^:54
inches
Overshoiikler
18
inches
Blade
13 ^4 inches
Breast
39
Waist
35^2 inches
inches
From
to
is fashionthe scye depth plus ^4 inch; C is natural waist length;

G is halfway between
is full length
F" is halfway between .V and B
is
able waist length
From C
to
is
down; from
to
is
tween H and I;
measure from EI
and F; square out from G, F, B, C,
to
is
From
and E.
indentation; draw a straight line from

3/ breast;
to J
is
I34 inches; J to
1-1
A
is
through
.)4
inch;
to
Q
is
and square
halfway. be-
L is o^j inches; square down from L to locate M; apply

L which is ]334 inches and square up; N is halfway between
to
to
the blade
II
and L;
134 inches.
to 24
&}i inches;
up from
is
to
to locate
plus 34 'nch
From X
the
is
square
to
above the waist
is
same distance as from 11 to O; draw a line from O to 24 A to T is

draw a line from A to U A to V is ;<; breast; square
from O to S is 3/3 breast
to P
draw a line from 34 '"^h below
;
I34 inches;
;
down from S and shape the back.

134 inches; square down from Y;
line;
point Z
is
halfway between
and
inch; point
to 2
is -ji
M;
shape the sidebody.
;]
is
3^ inch
THE FOREPART.
M to 1 is 3/ waist; square down from 1 this locates 11 from 11 to 13 is 34 inch
is halfway between L
and 4; point
than M, breast; point 5 is halfway between
and J draw a line from 5 through 6 up from A to
inch less than the back shoulder
inch; draw a line from 7 to P
from 7 to 23 is
From
less
width
shape
tiie
(5
from 7 to 9 is }i breast plus % inch 7 to 8 is %

Square forwards from 7 by line .5-0
breast; square forwards from 8 and shape the gorge. These coats are cut to button high
up and are made with a short lapel and fronts close with five buttons: from 14 to 15 is 134
inches; 4 to 13 is the same; shape the front edge.
From 4 back to 27 is 2% inches; from Z to Y, X to R and 37 to 21 is the waist measure
net; sha]ic the side and bottom of forepart.
;
THE
From Y
is I34 inches; draw a line from 22 through 26 down;

more than from S to 17; from 12 to 18 is the same distance as
square down from 20 by the waist line; from 3 to 16 is % inch; shape the skirt
to 25
from 22 to 19
22 to 19;
and
finish,
SKIRT.
is
is 9
inches; 25 to 26
34 inch
rounding the
latter
inch at 26.
^(^
DlA(;RAi\l
111
19!)
200
DIAGRAM
112
COACHMAN'S FROCK OVERCOAT.

The measurements
Scye depth
Fashionable waist
18;4 inches
Full length
46
9}^ inches
inches
17
inches
whatever style calls for.)

(or
From A
to
is
the scye depth plus
inch
Strap
lo
Overshoulder
Blade
18J4 inches
13^ inches
Breast
40
inches
Waist
37
inches
to 30
is -^^
inch
to
is
inches
natural waist
halfway between A and 30;

G is halfway between A and F; square out from (J, I*", B, 30, C, D and E.
From C to R is ^4 'ch draw a line from A through R to Q from H to 13 is 1 >4 inches
13 to I is J/2 breast
I to J is IJ/^ inches; J to 23 is 1 inch
K is halfway between 13 and I
K to L is Syi inches; square down from L to locate M; apply the blade measure from 13
to L which is 13^/2 inches and square up; L back to 31 is yi inch; square up and down from
31; N is halfway between H and 31; N to O is 1^ inches.
From A to 28 is the same distance as H to O; draw a line from O to 28; A to T is fi^'^
inches; T to U is IJ/^ inches; draw a line from A to U
A to V is /i breast; square up
to P
from O to S is 3^ breast
from V to locate W; draw a line from ^ inch below
plus
inch
square down from S and shape the back.
length;
fashionable waist length;
is
is
full
length;
is
THE SIDEBODY.
From X
1J4 inches;
and 40; point 3
to
way between Y
1 to 3 is
is
is
inch;
to 33 is
inch above the waistline;
breast;
point Z
half-
is
shape the sidebody.
THE FOREPART.
From
down from
4; this locates 11; from 11 to 14 is J/

halfway between
is halfway between
and 4; point
and L to 7 is the strap measure
L and J draw a line from 5 through 6 up from A to
inch
draw a line from 7 to P 7 to 33 is f^ inch less than the back shoulder width
plus
Square forwards from 7 by line 5-6; from 7 to 9 is H breast plus ^4 inch; add 34 i"^li
in front of 4 for a seam and shape the front edge from 9 through 33 down to 14; from 9 to
10 is % breast; 7 to 8 is 3^ breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge; 4 back
to 17 is 2% inches; R to 39 is the same as from H to 13; from Z to Y, X to 29 and 17 to 31
is the waist measure net;
to 4
inch less than
is
3^ waist; square
breast
J^
point 5
is
(i
THE REVER.
Draw
sweep
from 14 forwards to 20, and backwards pivoting at 36; the rever width from 14 to 30 is 3
inches; from 36 back to 37 is yi inch; round the rever slightly down from 37; 37 to 38 is
finish the rever as shown43^ inches
a straight line from 14 up to 36; sweep from 10 to 36 pivoting at 14;
THE
Draw
SKIRT.
into the sweep at 14; this locates jjoint 12; from 6 to

from
24 is 134 inches; draw a line from 12 to 24 and square down; 24 to 35 is 9 inches; 25 to
26 is iy2 inches draw a line from 24 through 26 down
from 24 to 19 is 34 i'^ch more than
from S to 18 14 to 15 is the same distance as 34 to 19 square down from 30 by the waist
line
finish the skirt as shown, roiuiding it
inch at 36.
a straight line
(!
Prussian collar
is
to be
a straight line from 10 through 7;
portion shirt collar for a

10 to 39
is
man
THE COLLAR.
worn with
this
10 to 39
of 40 breast
coat,
is
which
3^ the
would be
collar
is
made
size of the
15'/> inches,
as follows:
shirt collar;
draw
the pro-
therefore the distance from
7>4 inches.
shape the collar from 39 through 42 to 10; from 39 back to 45

A to
on the backpart place the square to points 39-45 and
is the same
is
inches
46
to 47 is
square up; 45 to 46
inch; 39 to 43 is I34 inches; 10 to 44 is 3^
1>4
collar
stand
from
through
43
inch
shape the
46 to 44
from 43 to 48 is the width of the
outer
leaf
of the collar and finish.
collar desired; shape the
Point 41 to 43
is 1
inch;
distance as from
DIAGRAM
112
201
202
DIAGRAM
113
FOOTMAN'S OR DOORMAN'S DRESS COAT.

The measurements
are as fuUuws:
Ij/z
inches
Strap
12
inches
!)
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
17
inches
12^
inches
Breast
36
inches
^^'aist
^(2
inches
Indentation
Scye depth
1834 inches
Full length
o-l
(or according In the
inches
10^'^
inches
man's heighth.)
From A
to
is
able waist length;
and F
square out from G. F, B, C,
C is natural waist length;

the scye depth plus 34 iiudi
is fashionis full length; F" is halfway between A and B; (i is halfway between
F^
and E.
R to O and S((uare down;

halfway
between H and I;
.î
locate M; apply the blade measure from H
K to L is 33/) inches; square down from
to L, which is 'i2'jA inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O is IJ^
inches; from A to 24 is the same distance as from II to O; draw a line from O to 24.
C
F'roni
to
to
'A
breast; square
I is
I""r(_im
}i breast
is
jA breast;
11
to
indentatiiiu
'/.
to J
is 6-}i
inches;
draw
inches;
is IJ/^
to
J to
L to
is
a line fnmi
I
tiiruugh
inch;
is
inches; draw a line from
i}^
draw a line from 34

from V to locate
square down from S and shai)e the back.
ujj
is
'"<-"''
to
U A to V
Q to S
;
below
W to P
inch
point Z
is
is
THE SIDEBODY.
F>om X
between
to
is
M;
and
134 inches;
point
;!
is
square
'j
down
fioni
inch abo\ c
to 2 is
waistline;
tiie
.)4
halfway
is
shape the sidebody.
THE FOREPART.
F>om
to locate 11
11 to 12 is 3^ inch
waist; square dt)wn from
puint
is halfway between L and
halfway between M and
thmugh
up; from A to \V an<l 1. to 7 is the straj) measure plus
a line from
to P; shape the
draw a line f|-iini 7 to P; from 7 to '}') is ;]' inch less than
and armscye.
'A
to 4
is 3<^
breast; point 5
is
(!
<!
T)
hum
less
than
J;
draw
f^ inch;
shoulder
by line .")-(>; 7 to
is
breast plus j/j inch; 4 back to 13 is 134
to 10 is li breast; 7
inches; sha])e the front edge from
through
and 13 down to 15;
to 8 is 3/8 breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and sliape the gorge; 4 back to 27 is 2 inches; Z
shape the side and bottom of forepart.
to Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net
Square forwards
'
1,
THE
Fruni
20 to 18
a line
is
from
Y
34
to
2.")
is
!t
inches;
2.')
to
more than from S
'"*^'i
18 to 28;
2(J
is
to 17;
sliape the skirt as
lyj
SKIRT.
inches;
12 to 28
is
draw a line from 2<> through 2() down:

same distance as 20 to 18; draw
the
shown, rounding
it
inch at 26.
THE COLLAR.
Draw
a line from 10 through 7; 10 to 10
is
two
proportionate size of shirt collar for a man, 36 breast,

inches.
The
the gorge;
the same;
sizes
is
more than the
shirt collar;
I43/ inches, one-half of which
distance therefore from 10 to 10
is
8%
inches;
from 10 to 22; 10 to 22
the collar as shown.
is
tlic
licighth of collar desired;
square
linish
U|)
is
the
734
shape the collar from 19 into

10 to 16
is
la
DIAGRAM
113
203
-oi
DIAGRAM
114
FOOTMAN'S COATEE.
The measurements are as follows
Scye depth
(}^ inches
Natural waist
Fashionable waist
18;./,
FTdl length
;;c>
Strap
17>^ inches
13
inches
inches
Breast
38
inches
inches
Waist
Si
inches
I2>^ inches
S(|uare
down and
From A
to
waist length:
and
Overshoulder
Blade
10^4 inches
is
is
out from A.
the scye depth plus >4 inch
is
halfway between
B, C, D and E.
square out from G, F,
F";
length;
full
is
and B
is
is
fashionable
halfway between
from A through R to Q and square down;

halfway between H and I; K to L is 3>4
inches; square down from L to locate M; apply the blade measure from H to L which is
13 inclies and square up; N is halfway between FI and L; N to O is 1)^ inches; A to 31 is
F^roni
to
is
to
From
S
is
breast;
}(,
3^ breast
to
is
to J
is
to
draw
G^^ inches;
square
From X to Y is
way between Y and
134 inches;
point 3
a line
to
is
to locate
down from
inches;
is I'/z
square up from
;
draw a
jA indentation;
is
y, breast;
.S
line
is
from
to 24.
1>4 inches;
W;
draw
a line from A to
from }i inch below
draw
a line
W to P
to
to
and shape the back.
THE SIDEBODY.
to 3 is }i inch; O
to
is
I's
inch above the waist line
breast;
point
is
half-
shape the sidebody

to 4 is yi waist; square down from 4 to locate 11; 11 to 13 is
inch
less than J-^ breast
J^
point 5 is halfway between M and 4
point 6 is halfway between L and J draw a line from
5 through G up; A to
inch; draw a line from 7
to P
7 to 23 is y^ inch less than
to P
shape the shoulder and armscye;
is
1/2
Square forwards from 7 by line S-G 7 to 9 is Mi breast; 4 back to 13 is lj4 inches;

shape the front edge from
through J and 13 to 14 9 to 10 is Vb breast; 7 to 8 is J^ breast;
draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge; from 4 back to 27 is 2 inches from Z to Y,
X to R and 27 to 31 is the waist measure net sha])e the side and bottom of forepart.
;
THE
From Y
23 to 19
is 14
to
2.5 is
inch
9 inches;
more than S
25 to
to 17
2(;
is
SKIRT.
draw a line from 22 through 3G down;
same distance as 33 to 19 draw a line
ly. inches;
12 to 18
is
the
from 18 to 19; point 16 is 5^ inch below point 3. From 15 to 20 is 1^ inches; from 20 to 34

is y3 the distance of from 14 to 22; from 19 to 28 is the same distance as from 20 to
24; draw
a line from 24 to 28. Cut the rever the same as for any other dress coat.
DIAGRAM
114
205
206
DIAGRAM
115
MESS JACKET.
The mea'ûrements are as follows:
inches
9
Scye depth
Overslumlder
Blade
17
inches
Waist length
IG
13^
inches
I'ashionable waist length
llj^ inches
Breast
36
inches
Full length
20
inches
Waist
32
inches
Strap
12
inches
inches
From A
length;
to
square out from G,
the scye depth plus
is
F",
inch
halfway between
B, C, D and E.
length;
is full
is
is
and B
waist length
fashionable waist
is
halfway betwen
is
R and
and F;
down
from
H to I is '1. breast; I to J is 1^ inches; J to l-i is J4 inch; K is halfway between H
and I; K to L is 3^ inches; square down from L to locate M; apply the blade measure
from H to L, which is IS^/^ inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O
From C
is
to
indentation
is y'z
draw
to
square
134 inches.
From
j\
to 'M
inches;
is 6;]/8
is
the
to
same distance as H to O; draw a line from O to 24; from A to T

A to V is Vt breast; square
inches; draw a line from A to U
from R to X is }i breast;
to P
draw a line from ^ inch l)elow
is 'iy>
up from \' to locate W;

S to 18 is I'll inches; shape the back.
THE SIDEBODY.
From X
to
more than from S
is l^/^
tween
and
inches;
to 18;
down from Y;
square
1 to 2 is
inch;
to
this locates 20;
is
20 to 17
point
breast;
-î
is
is
inch
halfway be-
shape the sidebody.
THE FOREPART.
From
to 4
is
3^ waist;
down from
square
this locates 11
from
11 to
\'i
is
jA inch
point U is halfway bethan li, breast; 12 to 28 is the saine distance as from D to E

tween M and 4 point 6 is halfway between L and j draw a line from 5 through 6 up; A to
inch draw a line from 7 to P 7 to 23 is }i inch less
\V and L to 7 is the strap measure plus
shape the shoulder ami armscye.
than the backshoulder
less
î/J
draw a rounding line from i>

Square forwards from 7 by line 5-6 7 to 9 is % breast
to
is
9
to
10
breast
8
breast
draw a line from 8 to 10 and
from
is
Mi
7
through 14 to 4
3^
from
forepart
10
to
inch
14 to 22, 4 to 25 and 28 to 30
to
the
left
19, yi
shape the gorge add
19
to
to
front
from
inches;
22
add
29, 1%
15, 25 to 13 and 30 to 26 is
the same; on the right
the same.
;
from Z to Y,
4 back to 27 is 2J4 inches
shape the side and bottom of forepart-
From
net
The
collar is a standing
one and
is
made the same
to
as
and 27 to 21
shown
in other
is
the waist measure
diagrams.
30 28
DIAGRAM
115
8(i;
208
DIAGRAM
116
CHAUFFEUR'S SACK.
The measurements
are as follows
Overshoulder
Blade
Indentation
V/i inches
Scye depth
Waist length
93/2
J7
inches
Breast
Full length
'i'i
inches
Waist
35^
Strap
18%
inches
Seat
41 J4 inches
inches
inches
18
13/4 inches
inches
39
inches
From A
is full
to
length;
is
the scye depth plus ^4 inch
is
out from G, B, C,
halfway between
and E.
and B
waist length
is
to
halfway between
is
is 6
inches
to
and F; square
and square down 1 to H is J4 breast

11 to I is 1% inches; I to J is % inch; K is halfway between 1 and H;
K to L is 3}<^
inches; square down from L to locate Q; apply the bhuie measure from 1 to L which is
13^ inches and square up; M is halfway between 1 and L; M to N is 1^ inches; square
22 to 7 is the same
up from N N to P is iV breast point 4 is halfway between M and N
distance as from 1 to 4.
From C
to 3
^4 inch
is
draw
a line from
to 2
is 1^ inches; draw a line from A to 9

A to 10
is (>% inches; 8 to
square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from 34 iuch below 11 to O and
shape the back; from (J to S is J/S waist; point T is halfway between Q and S; point U is
halfway between L and I draw a line from T through U up.
From
is
to 8
!)
breast;
]b
From
to
is
to 11
and L
to
is
measure plus
the strap
inch less than the back shoulder width;
inch
shape
draw
a line
from
to
O;
shoulder and armscye
tlie
is
breast plus y2 inch; draw a rounding line
V by line T-U V to
from
to X is J^ breast
from
to J
V to Y is J^ breast draw a liiie from Y to X and
shape the gorge; from J to 13 is SJX inches; S to 13 is the same; from Q to R is % inch;
draw a line from R through S to 13 and square down by that line; this locates 16.
square forwards from
From
16 to 17
and 15 to 20
18;
the
is
y& breast;
is
'ii
from
back to 15
is
the seat measure; from 20 back to 19
the
is
same distance as H to 12; 14 to 3

up from 19 to locate
2 inches; square
draw a line from 18 through 20 down and shape the side of forepart; from
same distance as from 5 to 7 shape the bottom of forepart and finish.
18 to 21
is
from 26 back to 24
is
THE COLLAR.
From
to 26
is
the
same distance
as
to 11 on the backpart
shape the collar crease from 24 through

and 30 to
from
J4 inch
to 23 is the same; X to 31 is
inch; from 24 to 25 is the width
24 to 28 is 1J4 inches;
to 32 is the same
from
inch
place the square to 27-24
to 27 is
of the collar desired
1
inch
29 to 30
is
and square out to 25; shape the collar as shown by the broken
line
and
finish.
dia(;ram uo
209
210
DIAGRAM
117
CHAUFFEUR'S OVERCOAT.
Tlie
measurements as taken over the waistcoat arc as follows:
9^
Scye depth
inches
inches
17
Waist length
Full length whatever heighth requires
Overshoulder
Blade
17j^ inches
13
inches
Breast
38
inches
3i
inches
Waist
12J^ inches
Strap
'.
A to B is the scye depth ])lus ^4 inch; B to C is ^ inch;

D to 23 is inches; A to is full length; F is halfway
between A and F; square out from G, B, C, D, 23 and E.
Square down and out from A;
to
waist length plus
is
between
and C;
From D
to 2
is
H;
21 and
from 21 to L
is
1 to 21 is
J4 breast;
1}4 inches;
to
is
distance from G to 20, 5 inches
draw
is
if
the material
inches;
to 8
is 63/g
to
from
down;
and 15;
is Ij,^
is IJ/4
inches or
to 4
or 2
halfway between
is 1
same distance
square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from 11 to
1^
the blade measure
to
3^
is
through 6 down
3 to 18 is the
is
Q; apply
19 to 20
may- be
it
inch;
is ^'4
square
this locates 22;
hea\y
is
to locate
inches;
is ly'i
a line
inches; 8 to 9
halfway between
19 to 6
inch; draw a line from 3 through 20
through
is
From L back to 15 is ^ inch;

down from N from
From
1%
down;
I^
3}4 inches; square down from

which is 13 inches and square up..
to
square up and
is J<2
J-^
(i
inch; di'aw a line from
forwards from 22; from

inches; 21 to
inch;
halfway
is
to 9
inches;
make
inch
-i
the
to 3
as from 3 to
;
to 10
5-
is 'A
and shape the back; from

Q to S is y2 waist; point T is halfway between Q and S; point U is halfway between L
and I; draw a line from T through U up; A to 11 and L to \' is the strap measure plus j4
inch less than the back shoulder width;
inch; draw a line from V to U from V to Z is
breast;
draw a line
is li breast plus J< inch;
Square forwards from V by line T-U V to
to J
to X is li breast; V to Y is J/^ breast: draw a line from Y to X and shape
from
the gorge; X to 25 is ;4 inch; cut out a V a^ between X and 25; J to 12 is 3J,-2 inches;
S to 13 is the same; Q to R is 1 inch; draw a line from R to 13 and square down bj' that
;
this locates 1(1;
line;
IC to 17
is
The button stand on this coat

to 7.
waist down; add from
J4
broken
line.
If a
as shown by the
î
Ys breast; 12 to 24 is
will he 83/
34
int" lies.
inches at the breast and 7'j inches frcmi the
inches; from 5 to 14
center plait
is
is
the
desired, add
same
from
ai>Q
reshape the back
to 20, 2J4 to 3 inches
and from 22 to 27 the same.
THE COLLAR.
from X to 28 is the same as the size of the
halfway between X and 28; square up from
shape the collar stand from 28 through 30 to X from 28 to
29 from 29 to 30 is l}i inches
31 is 1% inches; from X to 32 is ^4 inch; shape the collar crease from 31 through 33
from 31 to 33 is the same distance as the top width of the back place the square to
to 33
points 31-33 and square up to 34 from 33 to 34 is ^4 i'lcli
now place the square to points
31-34 and square up to 35; 31 to 35 is the width of the collar desired; 32 to 36 is the same;
shape the collar and finish as shown.
Draw
a straight line froni
shift collar, in this case 7^4 inches;

;
through
\^
point 29
is
The
than
crease line of this collar after being
the size of the shirt collar, in this case
finished.
it
out will be found to be 9 inches more

to be 8^4 inches plus 2 seams or 17 inches
ctit
is
>7*
DIAGRAM
117
211
218
DIAGRAM
118
RIDING SACK.
'I'lie
Scye depth
Waist lengtli
".>
'
lilade
]"43'-'
Breast
'M
inches
inches
Waist
3"2
inches
Seat
.'^8
inches
Full length
84
Strap
12
inches
1?
inches
)vershoulder
Stiuarc (Inwn and
l'"rfim
length;
is
B, C, I)
and E.
im-hes
inches
inches
fnmi A.
<iut
B is the scye depth net

halfway between A and B;
to
is
waist length
C'
tn
halfway between
(I is
.\
1) is
inclies
(1
and
to
.\
square
1';
i)Ut
is full
li
from
(1,
indcntatii m in this case '_! inch; draw a line from A to 2.'!; 23 to 2

C to 2.'i is
same as C to 23: square down fnmi 2; this locates 22: now shape the backpart from
tn } is ^^4 inch; K is
to 11 is >^ breast; H to 1 is ];Ki inches;
F to 2 and down; from
and 11
K to L is 3J/ inches; square down from 1. to locate Q; apply
halfway between
to L which is 13^ inches and square up.
the blade measure from
l'"r()ni
is
'._.
the
Point
to
as
.M
halfway l)etween
is
is 12
breast;
to 4;
draw
I'Voni
]'
to
to 4
IS
is
to
")
inches:
is l)f'8
from
a<l<l
S to
is
!)
'
U
is
halfway between L and 1; draw a

the strap measure plus '4 inch; draw
is
For
riding sack
it
shoulder and armscye

is
inch
draw
shape the gorge;

draw a line from
is
22 to 7 ts
to
<lraw a line from I4 inch below 11 to
fnini 4"
a line
to
is
from
inch less than
;}/8
\'
is
to 12
to
1'4 nulies.
to 21,
point
square forwards from
a line
">
1'
is
halfv\ay between
through
\"
to
up;
L"
to
!i
to 11
Irom
and S; point
and L to V
( ).
desirable to have the shoulder (|uite easy, therefore shape the
is
\'
line
11
up from X; N
the same distance
l^^ inches; sc|uarc
is
breast;
is
shoulder above point Z

25
_>
square up from in to locate

'i
from (J to S is ^j waist
back;
and shape the
1(1
to
down from
inch; stiuare
-y^
from
a line
and L;
from
is
tlirough
2.j t<i J
inch;
."s
\'
S to
scpiarc
to
13 is
the
by
the
'
,h
back shoulder width;
line 4"-U
breast;
to
\'
same; from Q
]'> by line I-i-S
to
;
is
'i.
shape the
is
breast;
forwards from
stjuare
down from
V4
to
and
indentation;
this locates 10;
Ifl
to 17
breast.
to 2(i is the seat

back to If) is 3 inches; S to 14 is2'j inches; 19 to 3 and
P'rom
measure; 5 to 2 and 14 to IS is the waist measure plus 3/j inch; draw a line from 18
through 20 down; IS to 21 is the same distance as from 5 to 24 shape the bottom of forepart and finish.
1.")
<i
213
13*-=
DIAGRAM
118
î
$!D
S)E
214
DIAGRAM
RIDING SACK.
119
(Continued).
After the backpart and forepart have been cut out,

27 and proceed as in this diagram:
28 about lyi inches;
This
keep the pattern close
reshape the underarm
will give the coat the proper
tish as
amount
split the front as
at 26
and open
shown down
of drapery.
to 18
from 26 down
it
and
to
between 27 and
finish.
S7
28
DIAGRAM
119
215
216
DIAGRAM
120
RIDING FROCK.
The measurements
are as follows
9^
Scye depth
inches
IQyi inches
I814 inches
calls for.
Overshoulder
Blade
lli/s
inches
13
inches
Breast
38
inches
Waist
34
inches
12J4 inches
Strap
From A
to
waist length
is
the scye depth plus 34 inch
is full
length
is
is
halfway between
and E.
and B
(i is
fashionable
is
halfway between
and
to Q and square
halfway between
apply the blade measure
H and I K to L is 3>4 inches square down from L to locate
from H to L which is 13 inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O
is 134 inches; from A to 24 is the same distance as H to O; draw a. line from O to 24.
From C
to
I is
down;
to
is
>4 indentation;
>4 breast
to J
is
draw
a straight line
1>4 inches; J to 14
from
is
through
.\
inch;
i/^
is
A to V is
a line from A to U
below
to
P from
from
inch
draw a line
% breast square up from V to locate
J4
is
inches;
Y
1^4
1 to
Q to S is >^ breast; square down from S and shape the back; X to
above
the
waistline;
2 is .54 inch; point Z is halfway between Y and M; point 3 is yi inch
shape the sidebody as shownFrom A
to
is
Gys inches;
to
is
V/> inches;
draw
11 to 12 is ^ breast
waist
short so that when
front
have
the
necessary
to
less 1 inch.
waist
seam.
break
above
the
should
not
the
coat
sitting on a horse
From
to 4
is
waist;
In a riding frock
it is
draw a line
Point 5 is halfway between M and 4; point 6 is halfway between L and J
and L to 7 is the strap measure plus ^ inch; draw a line
from 5 through 6 up A to
shape the shoulder and armscye square
to P
from 7 to P 7 to 23 is }i inch less than
draw a rounding line from 9
forwards from 7 by line 5-6 7 to 9 is' Ve breast plus J4 '"ch
from 4 back to 27
square forwards from 8 and shape the gorge
7 to 8 is 3/^ breast
to 14
waist measure net; shape the side and
is 2>4 inches; Z to Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the
;
bottom
of forepart.
From
14 to 15
is
1J4 inches; 4 to 13
THE
Draw
a straight line
from 12 to 22
is
the same.
SKIRT.
this locates point
IG
22 to 20
is
down; from 20 to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26

26
down; 20 to 19 is '^ inch more than from S
20
through
draw a line from
20
to
19; draw a line from 19 to 18; round the skirt
is the same distance as
line from 16 to 20 and square
finish.
inch;
is
1>^
draw
inches;
to 17; 12 to 18
inch at 26;
16(1)/
(8
13H
DIAGRAM
1?n
21';
318
DIAGRAM
121
COLLARS.
shows a collar made up with a >traight crease; after deciding upon the length
of the lapel, go out from A to B," 1)4 inches; this represents the collar stand; draw a line
from the lapel, crease through B; from E to D is 1)4 inches; from C to D is >4 inch more
swing out the
than the top width of the back; square down from E to D by line B-E
collar about 14. inch at E and make the distance from E to E according to the style of
collar desired. and shape.
Figure
For a long
roll
the collar
is
made
as
shown on
made up
inches; draw
a line for the crease
of the back;
shape the collar the same as
in
figure
same manner as described
this collar is
the
through B; C tu
figure
in
2.
As
the crease
for figure
is
34 inch
]._
is
to be straight,
From A
to
is
1%
more than the top width
1.
F"igure 3 shows a collar made up slightly horse-sh(je, or a rounded collar slightly hollowed at the crease line. It is made as follows: A to B is 1 inch; draw a line through
B; this locates E; from E to G is j^ inch; (1 to H is 134 inches; draw a line from H to
A; from C to H is the same as the top width of the back, plus 34 inch; square up from H
to G by line A-H swing out the collar about 3/4 inch at F
G to E is the width of collar
desired shape the collar. This collar must be slightly shrunk on the crease.
For a man with a short neck or for a fat man's coat, the collar should be made as
shown on figure 4. F^rom A to B is ;54 inch; draw a line from the lapel crease through B;
to 11 is the same; draw a line as from H through
this locates E; from E to (! is 1 inch;
C to A from C to li is 3/4 inch nmrc than the toj) width of l)ack s(|uarc up from H to G by
line H-C and finish the collar.
;
shows how to make an ulster collar to either roll or button this collar is made
from A to B is 134 inches; draw a line through B; C to D is I34 inches; D
is the same as the top
to F' is the same; draw a line from F^ through V to A; from F' to
width of back plus 34 inch; from F" to (1 is 1 J-4 inches; sliapc the collar crease from I)
through G into the crease line square up from G.
F'igure 5
as follows:
]".
From G
To have
inch and
H is -34 inch; place the square to point

according to style desired and finish.
to
leaf of collar
this collar
make another
button up to the neck jM-oceed as follows:

collar stand as
from
should be cut on the bias and then bent

be treated
in this
D-H and
manner
so that
when
to
J.
In the
line
in at
go up from
making up
1-B-J.
to
I,
of this collar the canvas
and leaf should

on that line.
Bot4i the stand
up, the collar will break
rolled
up; make the outer
scjuare
shows how to make a standing collar, also a standing rolling collar- This collar
draw a line from A through C; from A to B is 1 inch more than 34 of
the shirt collar size. This collar when finishe
must measure 2 inches more than the shirt
collar; draw a line from B through O into the gorge; square up from B by line B-D
from B to V. is tiie width of the collar desired plus a scam; A to F is the same, shape the
Figure
is
made
as follows:
collar as siiown
F"or a
inch;
by the
solid line.
standing rolling collar proceed as follows:
hollow the outer
leaf at
about
3/2
place the standing collar so as line E-G- will touch on the broken line corresponding
shape out as from E to H and from F to I; now cut out the outer leaf the
same as shown by the broken line; those two parts of the collar arc to be sewn together
at those points;
at line
E-G-F.
All the other style collars are
diagrams.
shown and described
in
conjunction with the \arious coat
DIAGRAM
l:.'!
219
my
DIAGRAM
122
SINGLE-BREASTED NO-COLLAR WAISTCOAT.

In measuring for a waistcnat,
that
all
needed
is
is
the opening and
full
length measure-
ments, otherwise the same measurements are used as for a coat.
The measurements
waistcoat are as follows:
this
for
Scye depth
inches
Waist length
IGJ/ inches
Strap
12
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
17
inches
12>< inches
Square down and out
fr(jm
Breast
36
Waist
Opening
32
1/2
inches
Full length
253/2
inches
.\.
From A to B is the scye depth plus J/4 inch C

may be increased or decreased according
is
From C
(;
to
makes
and B
.\
to 2
is
inch
-}{i
is
halfway between
draw
from
a line
waist length
to 2
this locates
the blade measure minus
halfway between
is
from 20 to
From A
\J is 14
is
to
to
2^
is
inches; this
your own individual ideas; E i's halfand E; square out from F, B. C. and D.
to
to 1 is
inch; J is halfway between
134 inches;
the waistcoat one size smaller than the coat; square
is
inches
distance
way between
11
inches
v-< inch from ] to K,

which in
and K; from X to 3 is '/. inch;
from
and
J to
down from
this case
s(|uare
is
to
is
"^ breast
inches
to locate
12 inches
up from
is 3
this
L; apply
and square up;
3; this locates 20;
inch.
is
6^
S to
inches;
is
to locate
the shoulder heighth as at 5-4, also add a
I'/z
inches;
draw
a line
A to T from A
W; now add 54 i'lfh
from
V; draw a line from V to

seam on top of line A-\'.
to
to
From L to M is 34 waist; N is halfway between L and M O is halfway between K and

draw a line from N through O up A to 5 and K to I* is the strap measure plus ^ inch;
draw a line from P to
from P to R is ^ inch less than 5 to 4 go forwards from K about
inch
and
shape
the
shoulder
and armscye square forwards from P by line N-O P to Y
)4
is
breast plus l^ inch shape the front edge from Y through I and M down.
;
'/b
to Q is 1 inch; from P to 11 is 34 inch less than from .\ to 5 on the backpart

from 11 to Q; make the depth of the neckpiece as from Q back I34 inches;
apply the opening measure as from 11 to wherever it comes, adding in this case only 34
inch and the full length down to Z jilus .V4 inch.
From P
draw
a line
From L to 6 is inch j to 12 is I/4 inches; draw a line frcim 12 to 6 and shape the side
and bottom of forepart; 7 is halfway between 2 and 6; from 7 to 8 is 34 vvaist; 7 to 9 is 34
waist plus .^4 inch; shape the center of back through 9 and the side from 12 through 8 to
10; lengthen the back at 10, 3/g inch and finish.
1
If
ing
the overshoulder
inch to
it.
is
to be used, apply
it
in
the
same way
as
shown on sack
coat, add-
DIACRAM
n-i
221
2S2
DIAGRAM
123
SINGLE-BREASTED WAISTCOAT WITH NOTCH COLLAR

The measurements
are as follows:
Scye depth
Waist length
inches
Breast
38
17
inches
My2
inches
Strap
123/4
inches
Waist
Opening
13
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
Full length
26^
inches
13
i>y
17^^ inches
inches
inches
From A
to
From C
is
is
halfway between
to 2
scye depth plus 34 inch; C is waist length; C

and B F is halfway between A and E square
is 3,^
square
down
this case
inch
H to
from K to
134 inches;
it is
123/4
draw
is
a line frc^m
inch;
to 2
this locates
is
to
(j
is
2^4 inches;
frcmi
ciut

locate L; apply the blade measure minus
to
G
J
!",
is j/S
B,
breast;
to
inch from
34
is
1
is
C and D.
to
inches;
to K, in
inches; square up.
halfway between 1 and K; X to 3 is y^ inch; s(|uare uji fmiu 3; this locates 20;
inches; draw a line from A to T; A
linch; A to S is 0^ inches; S to T is
\'
to
draw
square
from
locate
a line from \' to
add on 34 inch
breast;
up
U
to U is J^
'")-4
on
top
also
inch
of
back
as
at
A-V.
line
add
to the shoulder as at
34
is
20 to \V
is
'
..
From L
to
is
34 waist; point
is
halfway between
up; A to 5 and
draw a line from N through
from P to R is % inch
inch; draw a line from P to
^ inch and shape the shoulder and armscye as shown
and
L and
to P
() i^
halfway between
the straj) measure plus
is
.V4
go forwards from K
sc|uare forwards from P by line N-O
This vest being cut with a collar it does not lose a seam
less
than
')
to 4
from P
at
to
in this case is J4 inch-
as the collar
is
sewed on
flat.
From P to Y is '0 breast plus 3-4 inch; shai)e the front edge from Y through I and M
down; apply the opening measure plus % inch in this case from A to 5 and P to I, also the
is
inch; from J to 12 is I34
inch from A to 5 and P to Z from L to
full length plus
and shape the side of forepart and finish.
inches; draw a line from 12 to
1
(i
C>
halfway between 2 and (5; from 7 to 8 is 34 waist; 7 to 9 is 34 waist plus 34

inch; draw a line from 12 to 8 and shape the side of backpart, also the center seam; finish
inch to the backpart as 10.
the vest as usual, adding
Point
7 is
DIAGRAM
123
223
224
DIAGRAM
124
diagram shows a waistcoat for a figure with a large blade. The measurements
same as in the previous diagram except that the blade measure is I'Syi inches.
I'his
are the
From A
is
to
the scye depth plus ^4 inch;
is
halfway between
and B
is
waist length;
is
halfway between
and E
to
is
2^
inches;
C and
square out from F, B,
D.
draw a line from E tu 2 1 to (j is ^2 breast G to H is iy4 inches

halfway between 1 and (j; from J to K is 3 inches; square down
from K to locate L apply the blade measure minus '/2 inch from 1 to Z, in this case it is
X to 3 is }4 inch;
13 inches; square up and down from Z X is halfway between 1 and Z
square up from 3.
F'rom
to
is
to 2
is
inch; J
inch
is
is 1 inch; A to 12 is 3/2 of the tlistancc between K and Z, in this case ^

from 12 to E and shape the center seam as shown by the broken line;
from 12 to S is 6^ inches S to T is lyi inches draw a line from A to T 12 to U is % breast
from L to
square up frdm U to locate V; draw a line from \" to W
is 1/2 waist; point N
6
and
point
is
halfway
between
Z
and
draw
is halfway between
M
O
H
a line from N
finish
the
same
as
shown
through O up. Otherwise
the vest
in diagrams 122 and 123.
P"rom 20 to
inch;
draw
a line
DIAGRAM
This diagram shows how to make
The measurements
that the blade
are the
12'
is
waistcoat lor a figure with a
same as described
inches instead of
Square down and out from
l.'i
in
From C
down from
12
is
inch
to 2
is
4-4
draw
a line
from E to
from
From A back
E;
is
chest.
is
to
from
halfway between
is
is
3/2
J to
breast
is 3
'/i inch from 1 to Z,

halfway between 1 and Z
to
inches; square
in this case
;
to 3
is
it
J/^
3.
to 12
12 to
down from Z
is
C.
(J;
square up and
B and
wajst length;
out from F,
square up from
from
from 12 to
is
H to is ^ inch; J is halfway between and

K to locate L; apply the blade measure minus
inches;
line
inch
full
.\.
1J4 inches;
hack and
flat
the previous diagrams with the exception
inches.
From A to B is scye depth plus J4 inch; C

F is halfway between .\ and E; square
and B
125
is
}4 of the distance of
12 to S
is
6^
inches; S to
from
is
tt>
lJ/4
to locate \'
is ^ waist; point N is halfway between

L to
H draw a line from N through O up.
and
Z, in
inches;
;
draw
point
this case
draw
is
inch
from
draw
A to T
W; from
from V to
halfway between Z and
a line
J/4
a line
From
12 to 5
per broken
line.
and Z to P is the strap measure plus ^ inch shape the back from 12 to E as
Otherwise finish the waistcoat the same as shown on the other diagrams.
;

DIAGRAM
124
DIAGRAM
123
225
^'^'i
DIAGRAM
126
DOUBLE-BREASTED WAISTCOAT.
measurements are
Tlie
as follows:
Scye depth
Waist length
IT
inches
Blade
Breast
Strap
12^
inches
Waist
Overshoulder
18
inches
dy'z
inches
13 j4 inches
3d
inches
351/2
inches
Sf|uare dinvn and out frnm A.
From A
is
halfway between
to
From C
to 2
is
scye depth plus
and B; F
'-y^
j/4
inch;
waist length;
i>
halfway between
is
from
to 2;
H to is 54 '"ch J is halfway between and

down from K to locate L; apply the blade measure minus
and
1334 inches and square up; X is halfway between
inches;
\^/4
up from 3 to locate 20; 20

line from A to T.
From A
to
is
to
breast
'/b
is
inch;
to
square up from
6^
is
(i
up from
;
is
<ier
to 5
and
to
is
measure
inch less than 5 to 4; go forwards J^
'"'^h
to
inch from
^'2
to locate \'
inch
jilus ^4
from
is
(i
K; from X
the strap
to
draw
M
;
is
j/..
K
1
is
a line
'j
E
C and
D-
is
2}^ inches;
is
to 3
inches; S to
to
from
on ^4 inch as at o-l. also 34 inch on top of back; from E to

point
is halfway between K and
way between L and
(_'
and E; square out from
F, H,
breast;
to
is
inches; square
is 3
to K, in this case
is
I'/i
inch; square
y'j
draw
inches;
from
waist; point
to \V
add
half-
is
draw a line from N through

draw a line from P to
P
O
to
and square up; shape the shoul-
and armscye.
From
back to 13
is '2
inch
tlraw a line from 13 through
on the backpart
J4 inch less than A to
to Q and finish the top neckpiece.
is
Ti
frcmi
to
1'
is
up and down from P to

;
11
11
Apply the opening measure plus '^4 inch fnmi II tn 17, and the full length plus 94 iticli
11 to Z; draw a line from Q through 17 ddwn; make the button stand from 15 to Iti
according to style; from Z to M is 134 inches; draw a line from 14 to 16; add on ^ inch in
front of 16-14 which is for the make-up of edge and the button-hole; from L to 6 is 1 inch;
and shape the side of forepart.
inches; draw a line from 12 through
f to 12 is 1J4
from
(i
7 is
halfway between
and
7 to S is J4
waist
7 to 9 is ^4
the center and side of backpart and finish, adding tn the fiackpart
Where
fish
double-breasted waistcoat
through the pocket as shown on
is
tliis
withnut
diagram.
cut
waist plus
->8
inch at
a separate re\er,
it
inch
-54
shape
10.
is
well to cut a
14
DIAGRAM
126
227
228
DIAGRAM
After the forepart
is
cut out, crease
the buttons and buttonholes as
it
shown and
over as
127
at line 17-Z;
shape
ofif
the Ijottom
mark
finish.
DIAGRAM
128
If a waistcoat is cut with a separate rcver proceed as on Diagrams \2S and !>'!.
l'"ini>li
your vest regular, after which cut ofif 34 inch from the front edge of the forepart all the
way down, following the regular line as shown by those diagrams. After which proceed
as follows: draw a straight line from 17 to Z
make the distance from Z to 14, IJl- inches
or according to your own ideas; make the width at l(i about Ji'l inches and draw a line as
from l(i to 14. Add % inch in front of line l(i-14 for the makeup of the edge and buttonholes.
;
Reshape the neck as from 1 through IT down; add in front oi IT-Ki about 'j inch for
two seams. This style of vest should be made with a collar. To make the collar for this
to 4
style of vest proceed as follows: go down from 1 to 2, 34
breast; square out from
by line 1-2; make the distance from 2 to 3 about l'v4 inches and from
to 4 the width of
the lapel desired; go up from 4 to 5 about
inch; from 2 to
is the same <listance as
Draw an imaginery line for a seam as from
from 2 to
to
now shape the collar as
desired; this is shown so as to give an idea of about the proportionate length of the collar
<^'f
'i
.">
(i
;].
and
;i
(i
lapel.
DIAGRAM
After the rever
as shown.
is
cut off place
it
129
to the forepart as at line
Z and reshape the bottom
229
W4
C5
<
<
Q
00
0
<:
Pi
o
<
<
O
<
^30
DIAGRAM
130
SINGLE-BREASTED NO-COLLAR VEST FOR A STOUT FIGURE

The measurements
are as follows:
Scye depth
9>4 inches
Breast
40
inches
Waist length
17
inches
Waist
40
inches
Strap
13
inches
Opening
ISJ/^
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
18^
inches
Full length
273/^
inches
ISyi inches
From A
to
is
the scye depth
halfway between
is
and B
is
jjlus
'-4
inch;
is
halfway between
waist length;
and
F.
to
3^
is
inches;
C and
D.
from 1 to G is I/2 breast G to H is

1% inches; H to I is 3<J inch; square up a short line from I; J is halfway between 1 and G;
J to K is 3 inches; square down from K to locate L; apply the blade measure minus yi
inch from 1 to K, in this case, 13 inches and square up; X is halfway between
and K X to
3 is yi inch square up from 3 this locates 20.
From C
to 3
is
inch
draw
a line from
to 2
From
20- to
T A
inch;
is 1
to S
is
6^
inches
S to
is IJ/2
square up from U to locate V draw a line from

add J4 inch to the back shoulder as at line 5-4, also add
inch to the top of back
to
is yi waist
N is halfway between L and
is halfway between
and
to
to
is
breast
M Q
from N through O up-; A to 5 and K to P

from P to
from P to R is
inch less than
shape
shoulder
up;
the
and armscye
line
is
the
5 to 4
to
from
K
H draw a
inch
draw
strap measure plus ^
a line
square
go forwards 34 inch from K and
;
Square forwards from P by line N-O P to Q is 1 inch; P to 11 is J4 inch less than

on the backpart draw a line from 11 to Q and finish the neckpiece. From P to Y is
breast plus J/^ inch square forwards from O by line N-O this locates 18 shape the front
edge from Y through 18 and
down; apply the opening measure plus J4 inch from 11 to
the opening, also apply the full length of the waist coat plus ^ inch from 11 to Z from L
to 6 is 1 inch J t(.i 12 is 1 J4 inches; draw a line from 12 to 6 and shape the side and bottom
;
A
%
to 5
of forepart.
Point 7 is halfway between 2 and 6 7 to 8 is

waist; 7 to 2 is J4 waist plus }i inch;
yi inch to the backpart at 10, also add ]/2 inch to the forepart at the same point, because the pocket will be cut open as at line 6, and two seams will have to come out of there.
;
add
DIAGRAM
i:iit
2:^1
233
DIAGRAM
After the forepart
131
is
cut out and the pocket
overlap the forepart as from
and B
this will give the
the bottom.
amount
to
about
131
is
'
cut open, proceed as

inch, allowing
of convexity necessary to
it
to
shown
in
diagram
open as between
go over the stomach.
Reshape
DIAGRAM
131
333
AMERICAN GA R M ENT CUTTER
rM
DIAGRAM
132
SINGLE-BREASTED WAISTCOAT FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE

J'he
ineasurenK'nts
as fiilluws:
artr
Scye depth
Waist length
Strap
131/2
rjvershnulder
19
Blade
14
inches
fmm
Square down and mit
to
to 2
to
is
from
42
inches
44
inches
inches
Waist
Opening
14
inches
inches
Full length
2Sy2 inches
A.
is >'4 incii
is
draw
is
-waist length;
halfway between
and E
from
the scye depth plus
is
way between A and R
H
K
Breast
9f^ inches
inches
17
a line
inch;
from E to
to
2^
is
inches;
C and

to
('
is Vi
breast
(i
to
is
D.
1%
is
half-
inclie'-
from
to
y4 inch; square up a short line from I; J is halfway between 1 and Ci
inches: square down from K to locate L; apply the blade measure minus Vz inch
is
to K. in this case
is
it
131, inches and square up.
to locate 2(i 2(i

and K; from X to 3 is Vj inch square up from
halfway between
to
is 1 inch; from A to S is (5;J^ inches; S to T is 1 '-j inches; draw a line from A to T
A to U is
breast; square up from U to locate \' draw a line from \' to
add ^4 inch to
the shoulder as at 5-4, also !4 '"ch on top (^f back.
is
.'!
-'IS
L to M is 1/3 waist; X is halfwa} betwcfti I, and W () is halfway between K and H:

draw a line from N through O up; from A to 5 and K to V is the strap measure plus ^
inch draw a line from P to \\' from P to R is Ks inch less than from 5 to 4 shape the shoulder and armscye.
;
Square forwards from P by
locates 18; from
and
lar
down;
inch
applv the
I'Vom
side
if
the vest
is
is
N-O
line
full
I.
to
is
of forepart: point
waist plus
3,4
inch
by same
line; this
inch from
inch from
to 5
to 5
and P to
and P
to the opening, also
Z.
1%
inches; draw a line from 12 to

and shape the
7 to 8 is ^4 waist 7 back
shape the center of back and also the side add '4 inch to the
inch: J to 13
length measure plu>

fi
also square forwards from
breast plus y^ inch; shape the front edge from Y through 18

to be with a collar, go out from P to Q 14 '"ch if without a col-
apply the opening measure plus
and bottom
to 2 is
to
is
"
is
fi
fi
liackpart at 10 and finish.
For a coipulent man it is well to set a V in as shown at point 7

backpart of the vest easy across the hip and gi\e it the proper sha))e.
.\ftei-
the backpart
shown on diagram
131.
is
cut out, open the pocket and manipulate
it
in
this will keeji the
the
same way as
DIAGRAM
132
2:i:.
AMERICAN GAKMRNT CUTTER
236
DIAGRAM
133
DOUBLE-BREASTED VEST FOR A STOUT FIGURE

The measurements
arc as folk)\vs:
iiiclies
Breast
4:^
inches
inches
Waist
4"-i
inches
13'
inches
(Jpening
I!*
inches
Full length
inches
Scye depth
Waist lengtli
17
Strap
".tj-^
Overshoulder
Blade
Square down and uut
to
is
to 2
is
)'4
and B
inch;
inches
Irimi A.
the scye deptli pins
halfway between
inches
l.'i
^y,' j
h"
draw
is
inch;
'4
a line frcmi
I-",
waist length;
is
halfway between
from
tn 2;
to
is

1
to
is 'j
breast;
2^4 inches;
to
(J
C and
F, B,
is
]\
is
D-
134 inches;
halfway between 1 and (i J to K is

J
to K
Indies; square down from K to locate L; ap])ly the blade measure minus 'j inch from
\n lucate
is
inch; s((uarc up from
and square up; X is halfway between and K; X to
is 1 inch; from A to S is IJ^g inches; S to T is I'j inches; draw a line trcmi
20; 20 to
to
is J4
inch; square
uj) a siiort line frnin
is
I!
II
'
'<
,.
to T.
From A
J/4
inch
tct
to
is 'i
breast; s([uare up from
the slioulder as at .vl, also add '4
to locate
V; draw
inch to the top
a line
from
back; frcmi
i.if
\'
tn
to
W
M
adil
is
y'2
X is halfway between L and M; point () is halfway between K and 11; draw

a line from X througli O up; fn mi A to 5 and K to P is the strap measure i)lus j^ inch;
shape tlie shdulder and
draw a line from P to \V from P to R is yg inch less tiian 5 to
waist;
jxiint
armscye.
Square forwards from P by line N-O also scjuare forwards from O by the same line
inch from P tn 11 is 3/4 inch less than A to 5 on the backlocates 18; from P to (J is
draw a line from 1 to Q and finish tiie neckpiece.
this
l)art
apply the oi)ening

l-"r(im M l)ack to Pt is 'j inch; draw a line from ]<S thniugh Ii dnwn
measure plus 5,4 inch from VI to the o])ening. also api)ly the full length measure plus -^4
inch from 11 to Z draw a line from O through the npening down; make the width from Z
fur the making
t<i 1(> according to style, also add j^ inch in front of line 1(1-1
to 14 and
up of the edge and the buttoniioles.
;
1.")
From L back
down;
through
between
(i
and
to C
is
inch; J to 12
is
\%
inches; shape the side of forepart from
12
also add I2 inch to the forepart and backpart at 10; point 7 is halfway
6; from 7 to 8 is ^4 waist; from 7 to 2 is 34 waist plus .V4 inch; cut out the
forepart and backpart
shown on diagram
134.
cut in the pocket as at
<1
and mani])ulate the
iiattern
the
same as
DIAC.KAM
i;'.;i
237
2;i8
DIAGRAM
134
In cutting a double-lireasted waistcoat for a stout figure
the forepart as between

as from 10 to
to lines 8
and
and
and o\erlap
it
2,
to cut in the breast pocket as
as between 5
9; this will not alone
and
(!
is
well, besides
from
!)
to
1(1;
overlapping
open the pocket
about Vg inch, after which
work around over
the neck line so as to keep the opening from
it
adtl
seam
the stomach but will also shorten
being loose.
DIAGRAM
134
'239
840
DIAGRAM
135
SINGLE-BREASTED DRESS WAISTCOAT

'I'lie
Scye depth
inches
Breast
3G
inches
33
inches
Waist length
16^
inches
Strap
13
inches
Waist
Opening according
Overshoulder
Blade
IT
inches
Fidl length
Square
l'"roni
25>^ inches
I^JS inches
<lo\vn
to style
til
11
hallway hetween
and out from A.

the scye depth plus '4
is
and B; F
i'l'-"''
halfway between
is
i"^
waist length
and
]",
;
to
is
square nut from
234 inches;
C and
B,
I*",
is
D.
is I1-4
to 2; 1 to (i is y, breast; (i to
to
square
down
(i;
K
is
inches;
1
and
between
halfway
is
inch;
j
to
inches:
}i
J
tu
fmni
in
this
case
12
minus
inch
K,
measure
blade
apply
the
from
to locate L;
ij inch; square up from 3
tn
:!
is
K;
X
between
and
is
halfway
inches and square up; X
From C
to 2
is
1'^.
"/4
I is
:!
'
_.
to locate 20; 20 to \V
inch;
to S
is
6}i inches; S to
is
XjA inches;
draw
a line
from
u>'r.
Frohi
is
til
is
breast
inch to the shoulder as
point
at
square up from
to locate \'
draw
a line
frum
\'
also add 34 'H'^'i to the top of back; L to

and H;
and M; point () is halfway between
'>-[.
N is halfway between L
N through O up; from A to 5 and K to P
P tn W from P to R is 3^ inch less than
from
from
up; shape the shoulder and armscye.
;
is
tn
is
ai-ld
y2 waist:
draw
a line
the strap measure plus 34 inch draw a line
go forwards
5 to 4;
3/4
inch from
K and
square
and from P
inch; apply the o])cning measure jilus 3 inch from A to
is
From P to
inch frum A lu < and 1' tn Z; shape
wherever the opening comes, also full length plus
breast; draw a line from Y
the front edge from I through AI down; from M back to Y is
to Q; shape the opening, adding a little round to the straight line as shown in this diagram
'4 inches; shape the side and bottom of forepart.
is 1 inch; I to 12 is
from L to
Ti
to
'1'.
from 7 to 8 is % waist;
halfwav between 2 and
of
backpart and finish.
inch; shape the center and sideseam
Point
The
7 is
collar, like all other
(1
waistcoat collars,
is
cut
flat
no stand.
to 9
is
'4 w-aist plus 34
DIAGRAM
135
241
242
DIAGRAM
136
DOUBLE-BREASTED DRESS WAISTCOAT

As shown
diagram
in this
of a single-breasted waistcoat;
a straight line
inches;
from B through
to 15 is 2VS inches;
14-15 for the
makeup
go back from
D down
draw
of the edge
Measure the opening plus
made
this waistcoat is
to
a line
from
the
up
same
as
shown
after
which crease over the front part on the center
same
as
breast;
shown on diagram
a line
Line
A-D
draw
a line
is
the same;
from Z to ]4
draw
is
1J4
J4; add ^^ inch in front of line
in the
other waistcoat; go back
line
shown,
B-Z and reshape the bottom the
127.
DIAGRAM
This diagram shows
regular edge
to the side of the neck point; reshape as
line
'li
to
is tlie
and buttonholes.
from
to 16,
center line;
tlmmgh
IT)
A-C
and from C
j/ inch
this locates
^4 '"ch the
draw
as follows: line
how
to
make
a doui)le-l)rcasted waistcoat with a
the center line of frirepart
from B through L; add
the front; crease over as at line
137
from
Sr inch
fur
A-E and mark
to
is
makeup
SJj inches;
to
V
E
shaped front
is 3',^
in front of line B-F.
inches;
and reshape
the buttons and buttrmholes as shown.
243
344
DIAGRAM
138
CLERGYMAN'S WAISTCOAT
As
rejjeat
measuremeiUs
the
same
in
waistcoats are inxariahly
fur
Therefore the measurements
each case.
same,
tlie
is
it
not necessary to
same as
for this waistcoat are the
in
previous diagrams.
Scjuare drnvn and out from A.
From A
is
to
is
the scye depth plus
halfway between
and B
is
inch;
is
halfway between
waist length;
to
is
2^
inches;
F, B,
and D.
from E tn 2; imm to (i is l^ breast G to H is 1 J4 inches;
H to I is -V^ inch; J is halfway between and (i; to K is inches; square dnwn from K
inch from
to K and square uj) X is halfway
to locate L; apply the lilade measure minus
between and K; from X to 3 is 'S inch; square up from 3 to locate '20; from 20 to \\' is 1
inch; A to S is G^ inches; S to T is I],-! inches; draw a line from A to T.
to 2
is j/i
inch
draw
a line
I!
'
..
From A
add
draw a line from \' to
L' to locate \'
is
to
to
M
i"^-"li
the
top
of
back;
from
L
add
inch to the shoulder
J4
waist; point N is halfway between L and J\l point () is halfway between K and H draw a
line from N through O up; from A to b and K to P is the strap measure plus .)4 inch; draw
from P to R is }i inch less than 5 to 4 go forwards .)4 i'^ch from K and
a line from P to
square up; shape the shoulder and armhole.
to
breast
is '&
square up from
as at 5-4, also
J,.^
P to Y is 'i breast plus '/> inch; shape the front

Square forwards from P by line N-<
from
Y to Q is 34 inch less than % breast; P to 11
down;
M
and
through
I
from
Y
edge
line
from
draw
a
11 to Q and shape the gorge; add on a seam
breast;
than
less
is y4 inch
y
measure
inch from A to o and P down;
length
plus
ftiU
apply
the
at
P-Q
at the gorge as
shape
the
side
and
bottom
of forepart; point 7 is halfinches;
12
is
to
L to is 1 inch;
^l/^
I4 waist plus .^4 inch
is
shape the center and
to
9
waist
7
to
8
is
7
way between 2 and
}4
")
(J
C>
sideseam of back.
THE COLLAR
From
to 12 is
'-^
inch; draw a line from 12 through P; from 12 to 13
is
inch
more
than y2 of the shirt collar size; shape the collar from 13 into the gorge line; from 13 to 14
to
is the heighth of the collar desired; make the distance from 12 up the same as from 13
11
shape the collar and
finish.
DIAGRAM
138
2i5
246
DIAGRAMS
These diagrams show how
with a seam
in the
139
&
a clergyman's waistcoat
Diagram 139
center front.
as explained in diagram 138, cut off from the
140
may
be
made
to button
after the regular waistcoat has
inmt edge
J4 inch as
from
on the side
been cut out
to 2
and
3 to
4.
Place the front pattern on a piece of paper and mark around the side, shoulder and armhole as
shown on
Diagram
this
diagram
draw
a line as from 5 to G and cut out the extra piece.
140 represents the extra piece tiiat has been traced out and this
for the button stand
is
to be used
and the buttonholes are to be placed on the side of the front
part.
DIAC.KAM
189
DIAGRAM
140
317
248
DIAGRAMS
&
141
142
These two diagrams show h()w the same waistcoat
From
front.
from
back to
through
lish fr(.im
2 is
U down
J/j
to 4
inch and 3 back to 4
and square down
the lower pocket as shown.
is
by the waisthne
This will allow the
by the waist, after which mark your breast pocket and

part as from
to B,
front edge can be

finish.
sewn together,
ness and can be
to
Keep
(Diagratid 142.)
gram and
made
C and C
the
two parts
is tt;
of the
made up on
line
from
i)rticeed as
forejiart close at
add
seam
be added on to the jiocket.
also the lower fish
seam
in
cut out a small
to be squared
follows
split
down
the front
to D.
into a straight line
Nothing
the same; shape the front edge as
is
fnnii
made without
to be
is
sewn, the
the fold without a
frcjnt will
seam
as at
C; overlap
A-B
When
as
until
shown on
these parts,
ha\ e the pro[)er
in front-
at
tlie
this dia-
and B are
amount
o''
round-
DIAGRAM
141
DIAGRAM
142
249
250
DIAGRAM
143
SINGLE-BREASTED WAISTCOAT FOR A HUNCH-BACK

The measurements
are as follows
inches
Breast
38 inches
my^
inches
Strap
11
inches
Waist
Opening
36 inches
13 inche
Overshoulder
Blade
16^4 inches
Full length
25 inches
Scye depth
Waist length
inches
13

F'rom
is
to
is
halfway between
tlic
scye depth plus >4 inch;
and B; F
is
is
halfway between
waist length;
to
is 2-)4
inches;
and E; square out from F, B, C
anil
D.
from E to 2; from 1 to G is 3^ breast; G to H is

\% inches; H to I is f^ inch; J is halfway between I and G J to K is 3 inches; square down
inch from 1 to K which is 12i^ inches
from K to locate L; apply the blade measure minus
and square up; X is halfway between 1 and K; X to 3 is j/i inch; square up from 3 to locate
S to T is iyi inches; draw a line from
is 1 inch; A to S is 6^ inches;
20; from 20 to
A toT.
F>om C
to 2
is
draw
^4 inch;
a line
',
_.
From
on
to
is
breast
square up fmrn
inch to the shoulder as at 5-4, also add
to locate
''i^l^
a line from V to
back; from L to
draw
to the tup of
W
M
add
is
><
O is halfway between K and H draw a line from N

waist; N is halfway between L and
is
the strap measure plus ^ inch; draw a line from P
to
P
and
K
to
5
through O up; from A
to 5; go forwards ^ inch from K and shape the
'ess
than
4
is
in^'li
to W; from P to R
^s
;
up; the overNow apply the overshoulder measure plus inch from to 4 and from
shoulder measure reaches up to 10, in this case the distance between 13 and 10 is 1^4 inches,
Proceed as follows: add from 4 to ft, Ij^
the overshoulder therefore is 1^ inches short.
inches; from 5 to 11 the same; go in from 1 to 14, 1% inches; draw a line from 14 to E;
1
A-T now
shape the backpart from 15 to 1 and from 15' to 11, 11

Measure the distance from 1 to 9 and make the distance
6 is 1 inch point 7 is halfway between 2 and 6 7 to 8
from
L
to
inch
less;
to
R,
from P
inch
plus
waist
2
is
7
to
is ^^ waist;
}i
J to 12 is 1% inches; shape the sideseams of the
J4
forepart.
and
?,
backpart
point 15 begins at line

to 9
and from
9 into the
armscye.
Now
apply the opening measure plus

and P to Z
1 inch from 15 to 11
length plus
inch from 15 to 11 and
to
finish.
and the
full
DIAGRAM
143
Sol
DIAGRAMS
144
&
145
TROUSERS
Measurements
manner: the outside

minus -j^ inch for regular trousers.
If the trousers are to be very narrow, the measurements may be made minus
inch.
Loose leg tr(,nisers luay always be made slightly Imiger than tight leg trousers;
the inseam should Ije taken from the crotch down to the top of the heel minus the same aniount as has been reduced on the nutside seam. 'J"he waist measure should he taken J/S
inch closer than the natural measure because the measurements are taken o\er the tnaisers
and the trousers will be worn ox'er the underwear. The seat measure should be taken natural, neither too loose nor too tight and knee and bottom should be taken according to style.
tntusers shnulcl
fcir
taken
lie
length should be taken from the hip bone
down
in
the
following
to the top of heel,
The measurements
for
diagram 144 are as follows:
(Outside length
4"^
Inseam
Waist
i'.ii
:>".!
Square down and out from
inches
Seat
38
inches
inclies
Knee
It)
inches
inches
liottom
KJ^j inches
.\.
From A to B is the outside length: from B to C is the inseam plus '^ inch: B to E is
inseam plus 5 inches: C to D is
seat: square out from D, C,
from C to
and B
F is '2 seat: from F to
is .j/l(i inch and 1' to
is the same, or make the distance from
from
to {', is
] to 2, ^^ incli
seat; <i back to 11 is '^4 inch; K is halfwav between C and
'..
1-2
b'.
'.
.s
H.
same distance as from C to K draw a line from L through K up;

T
y^ inch less than % bottom; L to .S is the same; M to K is % knee; M
to Q is the same; draw a line from T through (J up: this locates j
to (1
sweep from
pivoting at O; from N to () is '4 waist: N to V is the same: draw a line from S to R and
B to L
b'roiu
from L to
the
is
is
from R to C; sha|)e the front part as shown.
THE BACKPART
Diagram
to
is
145.
I'.xtcnd
S-T-R-Q
lines
back to H is
incli
from D to ]0 pivoting
up from
place the square to points
1
.)
ways;
this locates point
From
the side
is
S to 9
seam
is lA
and
finish-
S to
fr(Tni
\\"
is
]2
pivoting at
\'
at
T to
is 1^
inch;
\'
is
'
!>
inches;
:1
F-('i
until
the right angle lays on 3 and
square both
S.
from R through 40 up; hrillow

to X is '4 -waist; X to Y
and 12; from
\"
seams, including the
whatever is left between Y and 3 is to be
and Z sweep from X to Z pivoting at
shape the backpart as shown
to K)
seat;
is
1'j inches;
draw
a line
of the backpart slightly lietween 10
lyi inches for six
cut out as a
inches; from R
Q; from (] to 7
R to '[> is the same; sweep from C backwards pivoting at H sweep
at 14; sweeji from P to
pivoting at 19; 4 to 5 is 1 inch; square
inch; sweep from
to ~
DIACtRAM
144
DIAGRAM
1.1
'>:.:!
^51
DIAGRAMS 146 & 147

STOUT MANS TROUSERS
The measiireiiieiits are as follows:
42}4 inches
inches
32
Outside length
Inseam
Waist
42
inches
Seat
44
Knee
Bottom
21
inches
16J/$
inches
inches
From A
to
iiTêam plus
is
the outside length;
inches; from
'!
to
to
is
the inseam plus 34 iuch
E and
seat; square out from D, C,
'n
is
to
is
B.
inch and ] to 2 is
inch from 1 to G is y^ seat
halfway between C and H B to L is the same distance as from C to K draw a line from L through K up; from L to T is J4 inch less than 14
to R is the same; draw lines from T
bottom: L to S is the same; M to Q is J4 knee;
through Q up; this locates J; sweep from J to G pivoting at Q, also draw a line from S
ic. R and R to C.
From C
to
back to
is
is
}! seat
inch
3/4
to
point
5/1
1 is
fi
is
From N
is
to
is
y^ waist;
to
place the square to points C-1
'i;
is
witii
the
the
same; draw
riglit
from 13 to O, g(i up the same distance from

and shape the forepart as shown.
to 1 and from O to
whatever the distance
now draw a line from P through
lines frfim
angle touching at 13
13 to
14;
THE BACKPART
from S to \V is }i inch T to V is lî inches
Q; from G to 7 is 1^ inches; from R to H
is
sweep from D to
inch R to 13 is the same sweep from C backwards pivoting at H
10 ]Mvoting at H; sweep from P to 3 pivoting at 12; from 4 to 5 is 1 inch; square up
from 5; place the square to points F-6 until the right angle touches the sweep as at
and mark both ways; this locates 8.
Diagram
to
1
is
Extend
147.
S-T and Q-R
lines
inch; sweep from
to 7 pivoting at
.'!
From
from
6 to
S to 9 is JX seat
is }/,
3 cut out as a
waist;
at
to 10
to
is 1
'/j
is IJ^j
inches
draw
line
from
inches for seams; v^'hatever
shape the hackpart and
finish.
through 10 up to 3
left between Y and
;
is
I)IA(iKAM
l-tB
DlAGRAAl
255
J47
>.oG
DIAGRAM
148
PEG-TOP TROUSERS
Tlie
measurements are
as follows:
inches
3S
Outside length
41
inches
Seat
Inseani
-i-
inches
Waist
-j"
inches
Knee
Bottom
1
';!
inches
'
inches
Ui
S(|uare ilovvn and out from A.
From A
inseam
iilu>
From C
to
'i
to
P.
is
the outside length;
is
inches:
to
is
'j seat;
to
li
to
is
the inseam plus
seat; square out from D. C.

is
."J,
Hi
inch;
to 2 is
-Vs
l'^
K and
inch;
inch:
to
is
y^
seat;
B.
to
is
Ci
Ys
hack to H is '4 inch; K is halfway between C and 11 from B to L is the same distance as
from C to K; draw a line from L through K up: 1. to T is '4 i"'""li less than I4 bottom;
L to S is the same; draw a line from '!" to H; this locates O; sweep from 11 to (i pivoting
at O; from 'Q to K is ,'4 knee; draw a line from S through E up.
and O to
waist; N to 1' is the same; draw lines from O to
F"rom N to () is
1' through
from
to E.
sideseam
shape
the
and
desired
as
much
as
from
to
C
add
;
v'
il
!)
THE BACKPART
Ivxtend lines T-S,
this locates ];
from
g-I-:,
to
:?
the right angle touches at
H-C, 4-D and U-l": from

'
is
;5
seat plus
^.'2
this locate's 8;
inch;
from
to
place
:>
is
the
inches; square up from o

square to points F-(i untd
Pj
S to U) is K' seat plus
1
'
_,
mches
draw
;
1
is yi inch; T
from S through KJ up; S to
plus
measure
waist
the
inch; sweep from (i to 7 pivoting at Q G to T is 1^ inches; apirly
inch for a \' and shape the backpart as shown, adding about
i;,!, inches for seams and
a straight line
to
\' is
1', inches;
to
L' is
inch rounding at
12.
DIAGRAM
148
257
2-^8
DIAGRAM
This diagram slunvs a
'ihe
measurements
]iair
149
of trousers with large legs, witiiout
heing iJCg-tnp.
are as follows.
Outside length
inclies
Seat
-10
.'!'2'S
inches
Knee
yti
;!4
inches
liottom
Hi'
\'i
Inseam
Waist
inches
inches
inches
!>
I'Voni
inseam plus
to
the outside length;
is
I^)
inches;
to
to
is
the inseam pins
seat; square out from
I) is 'n
1),
C,
]".
and
',4
inch:
1'
to
!".
is
y,
R.
to 1 is ."i/Ki inch;
to 2 is -y'n inch; from 1 to G is 's seat;
hack to 11 is V^ inch; K is halfway between C and H; B to L is the same distance as
from L" to K; flraw a line from L through K up; from L to T is '4 inch less than 34
bottom; L to S is the same; draw a line from T to H; this locates Q; sweep from 11 to
From C
to
is
]/>
seat;
1'
(i
i)i\oting at
waist;
to
O, also draw a straight
is
the same;
draw
lines
line frcim
from
S to C;
and
to
C)
this locates R()
to 2
From N
to <>
is
34
and shape the forepart.
THE BACKPART
Extend
is
jA inch;
Q; from
lines
S-T and Q-R; from R
to 7
(1
H;
R and U to
])ivoting at
to
to 11 is
inch; R to E is the same; from S to \^
from U to U is
inch; swee;) from G to 7 pivoting at
is 1^ inches; sweep from C backwards pivoting at H; swee]) from D to 10
sweep from P to 3 pivoting at F, apj>ly the knee measure iilus 1 inch from
to
is
J4 inches;
13.
\'i and
R in half; this locates E; from U to 1.'! is the
shape the inseam from 7 through i:i to \' from 4 to H is
from 5; place the scjuare to ])oints F-li until the right angle touches the
Divide the distance between
same distance as from

1
inch; square
sweep
at
:i
From
uj)
this locates
8 to 10
outside seam from

\ious diagram.
15 to ]l
8.
is
yi seat ])lus
1<)
through
\l
to
IK
inches;
from R through 10 up; shajie the

the backpart the same as shown on the pre-
draw
W and finish
a line
UIACJRAM H9
250
260
DIAGRAMS
&
150
151
This diagram shows how to make Spring Bottom Trousers. In these trousers the knee
measure is shown to be 18 inches and the bottom 19^ inches; make the front part from
e.. the knee, measure
is
T to S about 2 inches smaller in size than the knee measure,
which
is
of
16.
distance
from
S
to
T,
8
inches,
18 inches, therefore make the
J^
/'.
THE BACKPART
From
plus
is
to
is
inch
T to V is lyi inches; S
T to S and V to 3 point
inch for seams from
the same distance as 3 to
\' to
is
inches;
to
is J/i inch
measure the bottom,
V to 5
to 2 is the same; shape the backpart
;
is
as shown.
151
This diagram shows how to manipulate the backpart of a pair of trousers
back bow. After the forepart and backpart have been cut out, proceed as follows: split
the backpart as from 1 to 2 overlap th ebackpart as from 2 to 3, y'z or jj^ inch now make the
distance from the inseam notch up to 5 the same distance as it was before being split and reshape the backpart as shown Iiy the broken line. There are quite a number of cutters who
claim that in a back bow the forepart should be made longer and the backpart shorter,
but as a matter of fact, the forepart is made longer because as the backpart becomes shorter
Diagram
for a
the front part
is in itself
comparatively longer.
DIAGRAM
i:.(i
DIAGRAM
151
261
262
DIAGRAMS
&
152
153
BROAD FALLS
The
niitciied
to
is
facing lur
on the
the
hmad
fcireitart,
falls
is
mark C
to D,
same shape the facing

;
inch;
is
to
the
;
IS
and
):)
same as
E D
to
incii
falls
to
is 2}/,
to J
I"
to II
are cut as follows:
is
to
the same;
iinish as rejiresented.
2Jj inches;
11
to J
is
v^J
inch;
FALLS
Line D-I"
C; square back from F; from

inches;
is
as indicated.
NARROW
The narrow
After the side pockets are marker! and
cut as folldws:
is
draw
the same;
a line
1*"
to
draw
from
the center of fore|iart
is
is
a line
to
"^
L; cut
(i
from
T)
to
!'
from
through K; from
to
to
inches;
from
draw
a line
in the forepart
from
DIAGRAM
152
DIAGRAM
153
.'G:i
2G4
DIAGRAMS
Trousers
for
together;
find as nearly as
Let us say the space
is
in the
the knee line
seam by opening the pattern

the outside
and inseam by
After the forepart

(see
155
diagram loo).
bowed by ha\ing ynur
you can theamount
three inches, which
is
having cut the forepart

Line A-C
&
bow-legged men are cut as follows:
Ascertain the amount the legs are

cl(.)se
154
is
means
of space there
that each leg
regular way, pr(.)ceed
as
inch,
which
filling in slightly at
is
is
follows:
cut the forepart open as from

.'4
cust(.>mer stand with his heels
one-half the
to
linished as explained, cut the backpart
between the knees.
bowed
1
',
(diagram
inches.
Now,
154).
C; lengthen the outside
anmunt
C and reducing
is
the
of the l)ow.
same amount
Reshape
at
A-B.
according to the forepart
DIACKA.M
l.jl
DIAGRAM
155
205
2(i(i
DIAGRAM
156
RIDING BREECHES
lie nicasuri'il in tlic follnwiny manner: I'lrsl lake llie outside
to the top of the lieel in tiie regular way, then the inseam in
next take the waist and seat measures in the usual way for trousers.
Riding
lirccclifs arc
In
seam
from the hip bone down

way,
After the measurements are taken in this manner, proceed

Tlie measurements should be taken over the drawers, but if
up close to the leg so as to get the complete outline of the
sketch at 1, wliich is the regular knee; 2 is the small of the
e.xtensicin is desired, make a mark also at 4.
if an
the
length,
regular
as follows: (see sketch)

so desired, the trousers may be pinned
leg: now make a mark as shown on the
knee; 3 is the largest part of the calf;
Now
let us suppose that the measurements are as follows.

Outside length
42
Inseam
''i'A
(This leaves a
rise
of
'J'/j
inches.)
Waist
'''>
Seat
'>'>
Length from the crotch
To
To
The
to
knee
1^
10
the small of the knee

the largest part of calf
ly,"-^
to 4 is the e-\teiision and

distance from
the knee at 1
the small of knee as at 2
the largest part of calf as at :!
as at 4
:i
may
be
made according
to
proceed
witli
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
your own judgment.

inches
i:j^ inches
Around
Around
Around
Around
Now
indies
inches
14,'4
11
inches
inches
diagram.
down and out from .V.

.\ to C is tlic rise, in this
Scjuare
case 'J'A inches; C to D is 2 inches always: this is to give enough

Im-oiu
length over the knee while sitting: from D to E is 13 inches; to F is 10 inches: to B is \'J'A inches;
to (i let us say 24 inches: square out from C. E. F, B and (j.
I'rom C to H is M seat: 11 to Ml is
seat; point K is halfway l)etween C and Ul; si|uare up from
to X, J/i i"ch and draw a line from X to Y; from X to Y is '/j
H: thi^ locates W; go down fnnii
waist; from H to I is 1/2 inch; 10 to J is the same; from B to L is '4 seat; draw a line from L through
K up; this locates points O and M; from M to N is '4 knee: O to P is '4 small of knee: from L to Q
'
is
extension
If the
;4 calf.
is
,,
desired, extend that line
down and make
tlie
distance
fr(uii
i;
U,
to
ankle.
M Id R is 1' j iiulies; draw a line from K tlirough T dov\'n: draw a slraiglit

and shaiie the ciiiUli and inseam; from Y to Z is the waist liand: from C to 1 is
i;4 inches; draw a line from 1 to R: shape the outside scam as shown.
L
l-rom
line
from
to
is
inch;
through
THE BACKPART
%
lines as shown ami proceed as follows; from s to 1) is

waist plus I'/j
to 11 is }-8 seat; from 11 to 12 is
l-}4 inches:
from 12 to i:i is y'2 inch; draw a line from i:; |o it; from i:j to 10
to 7 pivoting at N.
1:1 lo 1,") is the same width as Y to Z: sweep from 10
HI
Extend
through
all
1)
llie
from
up;
'.i
scat;
draw
line
from
inches; from 1 to 5 is
is yi waist plus 2 inches;
to U;
down througli 1' and
inches: draw a line from T to N and from
inch.
If the measurements are taken over
to 22 is the ankle measure plus
the trousers they are to lie cut without any addition, but if taken over the drawers, there is to be 1
This includes all tlie measurements, i. e.. the calf, the small of the knee and the knee
inch additicni.
nieasiireincnts,
h'rom
from
to
to T
is
and
1-J4
to 2 is the calf measure; from P to S and P to :i is the small of knee measure;

to 4 is the knee measure; shape the side seam of the liackparl from 12 through
Suppress tlie distance
give it a regular run.
4. 3 and 2, extending the line from 2 to 23 so as to
as between 20 and 21. including two scams for making up
between 22 and 23 by cuttin.g out a
same: add from 4 to 24. '.i inches: 2:; to 2.") is the same: this is to lie uêd for a butlou stand.
briuii
from
to
to
and
R and N
,").
the clolli is soft and can easily be shaped with the iron, the baekpart is to be stretched between
Usually tlie
Q, also between 4 and 2, and the front part is to be fulled in above the knee.
kind of material riding breeches is made of is hard to press, in wdiich case split the baekpart between
These two pieces are to be sewn together
3 and 4 and N and P; take out IJ^ inch lisli under the knee.
which is taken out between 20 and 21 is to
and tliis helps to form the baekpart of the trousers. The
give the proper round over the calf.
If
N and
From
11)
and
18.
IS to 20
When
and from
this
is
to 21 is the same distance as has been taken (.nit between l!i and
up. it will rcquirethis much more length in order to gi\e the
sewn
of the breeches a straight run.

Cut out a ;/. inch V at the
lop of the
waistljand and finish.
V and
bottom
20
81
DIACRAM
JJG
2(u
.'08
DIAGRAM
Riding l^recches witlmut
diagram
151!,
exteiisioiis.
except that they are
made
These
is
lirecclies are
made
the
same as shown
withe mt the extcnsiims, and the material
can be shaped with the inm. therefore, there

backpart
157
is
no
tish
is
cut out under the knee
uii
such as
and the
cut one-halt" incli shorter than the forepart so as to allow for the stretching un-
der the knee.
DIAGRAM
157
2fii)
270
DIAGRAM
158
COACHMAN'S BREECHES
Tlic nieaMiremcnts
nseam
Waist
Seat
to
is
Draw
line A-T!
I'^rom
i:!
inches
Knee
;i;j
inches
Small of knee
;!;i
inches
Calf
;i'.i
inches
length
)iitside
as fullnws:
;ire
is
t(i
inches;
to
inches
:!
inches
inches
11
and square out to P.

the diliference between the outside and inside >cani^,
is
inch less than
l.'i
D is %
H is
of the inseam,
]/>
inches;
\'i' j
seat; square out frdui
C, D, E,
!;
tu
i>
:'<
inches; from
1(1
inches; from
to
and B.
From C to
'/j
In get P; tlraw a
seat; from 11 to j is ''4 inch; square u\> imm
from II to P to get 2'i; from j t(j L is 's seat; L hack tn K is s.s inch pnint T? is half11
is the same distance as C to 1"*; draw a line from
way between C and K from B to
through 12 to locate imints 2(1, 25 and
\
line
).
Frnm
11
to
is J/|
nf the calf;
the knee measure; from
than
to S;
2(i
From
from
to
2.)
is
11
to
to 2t
is
from
is
1:1
2(1
toS
is
',4
inch less than 25
34 waist; () to
of the --mall of knee; 25 to
inch L'>s than
the
is
s.irc.e;
t(j
to
II
T; from
to 21
2(1
is
R
1
is
y^ of
inch less
R.
shape the forepart as indicated.
THE BACKPART
Extend
From T
S In
(;
from
(!
to 7
to
and
inch; from
through 4
is
l:i
P-M, 2:VD, C-E, R-21,

'P
to
1(1
is
to 22
2 to 5 is
3/2
is 2
S-21 and T-i;3.
the calf mc;iMirc plus
the small of knee measure ])lus
is
ure plus
lines 12-0,
inches;
waist plus
i^ inch; sh.ape the liackpart
inch
()
inch
and
to 2
;
fr(]m
is
draw
finish
:is
'j
inch for seams; from S to 21 and
to 24
waist;
a line
and R
from
indicated.
to
5 to
to
is
23
\'
'.
is
the knee meas-
draw
seat;
to
(I
is
i"!
a line
seat
DIAGRAM
158
271
.373
DIAGRAM
159
KNICKERBOCKERS
nu-asurcmeiits are as follows:
I'Ik-
1" inches
Seat
Outside seam
42 inches
Tnseam
Waist
'-^2
inches
Small
:>4
inches
Calf
ID
Draw
line
iM-oni
inches: from
B and
out to
to
inches
is 4
Ki inches
knee
It inches
S.
D is the difference between

D to 13 is inch less than 'j
inches, and from
is 21/2
13,
to
A-C and square
of
the inside seam and the outside seam, which

of the inseam. which is 1,") inches; from 13 to
from
to
l-:
is
seat; square out from
F.,
is
P>
D,
C.
inch; s(|uarc u]! from II to get point S; draw a

between (i and II; J to K is '/ seat; K
halfway
line from G to S to get point
J
(' to N is the same distance as from
ij
from
K;
inch; M is halfway between D and
to L is
to
13 is the same; from N to 7 is 14
knee;
11
of the small of
D to M from 11 to U is
to
inch;
13
12 is the same; draw a line from
to 14 is 1
is the same; from
of the calf; N to
I/4
to
R
T is the same; shape the forewaist;
12 to 14; D to Z is I'ci inches; from R to S is
From D
to
is
'j
seat:
(i
to
:!
II
is
.\,
is
I)
part as indicated.
THE BACKPART
Extend
T,
to
to
.5
from
is
is
to
T!!
lines A-S,
seat;
%. seat;
C,
is
to
from
Z-L,
Y
1.')
X-U and
14-7
from
7 to 8 is y, inch
to
is
the .same
from
is î inch; from Z to 15 is 1 J-^ inches; from R to 16 is y, waist:

draw a line from U! through
to
i> the same length as Z to T
'j waist plus
."î
inch;
draw
a line
from
(i
to
3.
to \',
and
Api)ly the small of knee measure plus 1 inch for seams from 12 to
which is 11 inches; apply the calf measure plus 1 inch for seams from 7 to 14 and from S to
10 which is IT) inches; shape the backpart as indicated.
DIAGRAM
159
273
2^4
DIAGRAM
160
GOLFING BREECHES
The measurements
are as follows
Outside length to knee
23^
inches
Seat
40 inches
Full length
42
inches
Knee
22 inches
Inseam
Waist
32
inches
Small of the knee
13 inches
34
inches
Draw
line
From
inches; to
A-C and square out
to
to S.
is
inside lengths which is 10

is the difiference between the outside and
the knee length, 23i< inches; from B to C is (i inches; D to E is % seat;
square out from E, D,
B and
C.
to G is yi seat; G to H is .)4 inch; square up from II to get S; draw a line

S to get 3; point J is halfway between C, and II; from J to K is y seat; K
is halfway between D and K; from G to N is the same distance as
to L is JX inch; point
draw a line from N through M this hicates Q-R from N to O is J4 inch; from N
D to
reaching up to Q; from P to 7 is J4 of the
to P is the same; cut out a Y between 1' and
inch O to 9 is the same from Q to V is j4 knee Q to U is the same
small of knee plus
from R to S is ^ waist; R to T is the same; from D to Z is 1^ inches; shape the forepart
From D
from
to
as indicated-
THE BACKPART
Extend lines S-T. 3-E. L-Z, U-V and 7-9. Fniui R to 4 is jA waist; R to 5 is H seat;
from
draw a line from 4 through 5; 4 to is yi waist plus inch; draw a line from to
to F and 3 to 2 is the seat measure plus ?>j4 inches; from L to X is A seat; X to Y is y^
\' to B is the same
7 to 8 is y^ inch 9 to 10 is the same take out
is ^4 inch
inch U to
a Y from the back the same as between P and O on the forepart shape the backpart as indifi
;i
cated and
The
finisji.
cufif
on the bottom
is
to be aliout 3 inches wide.
::
DIAGRAM
160
27.-)
270
DIAGRAM
161
STRAIGHT-FRONT SACK FOR A BOY
YEARS OF AGE
The Proportion Table comes as near the actual breast and waist sizes for children as it
does for grown people, but in cutting children's clothing it is always advisable to cut same
two sizes larger, as it is not good judgment to have children's clothing fit as closely as
men's garments. This coat, therefore, is increased two sizes.
The measurements
for this coat are as follows:
Breast
inches
26
inches
Waist
25
Seat
28>^ inches
12?^ inches
Waist length
Sleeve (taken from the center of the back to the elbow and the
full
length to the
21^
wrist
Around
wrist
inches
inches (see proportion table for boys and youths.)
9^
From A
to
J4 breast;
is
halfway between
and E.
and B
is
waist length;
is
From C to 2 is ><^ inch E to 22 is J4 inch shape

down to 22; from 1 to H is >^ breast; H to I is 1^
is
is
is 5
inches;
is full
length;
the center of back from
to
halfway between
inches;
to J
is
and
to 2
inch; from
to
breast on square division plus J4 inch square up and down from L this locates
to N is 1 inch square up from N to locate O.
halfway between 1 and L
;
From
A to
is
6^
is
inches; 8 to 9
is
draw
lyi inches;
a line
from
to 9
to 10
is
inch if so desired; square up from 10 to locate

be made Ye breast plus
breast; this
^4 inch; from 22 to 7 is the same distance as
4
is
back
to
N
11
to
line
from
O;
11; draw a
A breast shape the back.
is
P
N
to
to
line
from
7
4;
from 1 to N draw a
may
From Q
to S
between L and
is
;
waist; point
draw
a line
from
to
plus }i inch draw a line from
shoulder and armscye as shown.
;
T is halfway between Q
T through U up from A
;
from
to
is
and S; point
to 1] and L to
>4 inch less
than 11 to
halfway
is
V is 16 breast
O shape the
;
inch draw a
is % breast plus
Square forwards from V by line T-U frotn V to
front edge
the
is
the
same;
shape
to
13
to J J to 12 is 1 inch; S
rounding line from
H
from 6 to
as
from
to
same
distance
through 12 and 13 down from S back to 14 is the
J
is
measure
shape
to
the
seat
20
15 is the same distance as from 13 to 14 from 19 to 3 and 15
is
breast
from
16 to 17
J^
the side seam. From 5 to 21 is the same distance as from 5 to 7
shape the front edge, bottom of forepart and finish.
;
THE COLLAR
From
to 23
is
inch
draw
a line for the lapel break
inch more than A to 11 on the backpart

collar as shown and finish.
24 to 25
is
through 23
yi inch; 25 to 26
is
from 23 to 24
3/[
is }^
inch; shape the
12^^
DIAGRAM
161
277
278
DIAGRAM
162
DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK FOR A BOY.

The measurements
YEARS
(Increased 2 sizes)
are as follows:
Breast
Waist
Hip
Waist length
SOJ^ inches
inches
28
Coat length
Ziyi inches
Sleeve length
27
inches
32J/ inches
145^ inches
Wrist
11
inches
From A
is
C,
to
34 breast;
is
halfway between
and E.
From C
to 2
i/^
is
and B
inch;
waist length;
is
is
to
halfway between
D is 5 inches; A to E is
A and F; square out
to 22 is ^^ the distance of
to 2
draw
length;
full
from G, B,
a line from
to 2
from 1 to L is Vî
is halfway
breast (on square division) plus J^ inch; square up and down from L;
between 1 and L; M to N is 1 inch; square up from N from N to P is A breast; N back to
4 is J4 inch from 22 to 7 is the same distance as from 1 to 4 draw a line from 4 to T
from A to 8 is 6}i inches; 8 to 9 is lyi inches; draw a line from A to 9.
and down
from
to
is
i^ breast
to
is
1^
inches
to J
is
)4 inch
draw a line frrim 1 to O

and shape the back; from Q to S is 3% waist; point T is halfway between Q and S; point
U is halfway between L and I draw a line from T through U up from A to 11 and L to \'
from V to Z is ^ inch less than 11 to
is Vi breast plus ^ inch; draw a line from V to O
From
to 10
is
breast; square up from 10 to locate 11;
is % breast plus yi inch; draw

Square forwards from V by line T-U from V to
is
breast; draw a line
X
6
breast;
to Y is
from
to
V
from
to
a rounding line
J
from
is
inches;
to
13
is
the same; from Q
to
12
S
the
gorge;
from Y to X and shape
J
2J-<
line
from
13
by
R-13;
this
locates
points
6 and 16; from
down
to R is 3^4 inch; square
is
from
H
to
back
to
15
the
same
distance
as
12 from 23 to
16 to 17 is % breast from 6
square
from
19 to locate
20
back
to
19
is
2
inches;
up
3 and 15 to 20 is the seat measure;
of
forepart;
from
down
and
shape
the
side
18 to 21 is
18; draw a line from 18 through 20
forepart
and
finish.
the same distance as from 5 to 7 shape the bottom of
;
DIAGRAM
ir,2
r,"-)
380
DIAGRAM
163
SINGLE-BREASTED OVERCOAT FOR A BOY.

For further measurements see Proportion Table
same as
10
YEARS
(increase these overcoats 2 sizes the
for other coats.)
Breast
29 inches
Waist
27 inches
Seat
31
inches
From
is 5
to
inches;
J4 breast
is
F; square out from G, B,
From C
B
to 24
is
to 2
is
3/2
1,
inch
length;
is full
to 1
is
inch
same
to 22 is the
J4 breast;
(on square division) breast plus
Ij^ inches;
24 to
is
from 24 to L is /^
inch square up from K;
back to K is
square up from N from N to P is 1 inch
draw a line from 4 to 7.
as from B to N
halfway between
C. D and E.
is
to
and
is
draw
to
^-^
inch
is
l}i inches;
to 2
I
square up and
to
and
and 2 to 22
to J
is
inch;
down from L
halfway between B and K;

to N is 1 inch
inch 22 to 7 is the same distance
back to 4 is
is
halfway between
a line from
is
waist length plus ^^ inch
draw a line from A to 9

A to 10
is 6J^ inches; 8 to 9 is 1>4 inches;
square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from 11 to O and shape the
back; Q to S is JX waist; point T is halfway between Q and S point U is halfway beup; from A to 11 and L to V is Vs breast
tween L and I; draw a line from T through
From A
is
Vb
to 8
breast;
]ilus }i inch.
from \' to O; from V to Z is 14 in^h less than 11 to O shape the shoulder

is % breast plus J4 inch
and armscye; square forwards from V by lineT-U; from V to
breast square forwards from Y and shape the
to J V to Y is
Draw
a line
gorge.
inch; square down from

S to 13 is the same; Q to R is
and 16; 16 to 17 is >^ breast; 6 back to 15 is the
same distance as from H to 12 from 23 to X and 15 to 20 is the seat measure; 20 back to
19 is 2 inches; square up from 19 to locate 18; draw a line from 18 through 20 down and
shape the side of forepart; from 18 to 21 is the same distance as from 18 to 7; shape the
From
13 by line
J to 12 is lyi inches;
R-S
this locates points 6

;
bottom
of forepart
and
finish.
DIAGRAM
163
28.1
DIAGRAM
164
DOUBLE-BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT FOR A BOY.
YEARS
16
Vor further ineasurcnients see Proportion Table.

Breast
32
inches
Waist
2d
inches
Seat
33-y4
inches
From A
full
length
from G, B,
to B is J4 breast B to
F is halfway between
1, C and D.
;
From C
to 2
is y'^
inch;
draw
forwards from 22; from B to 21

I
to J
is
^4 inch
from, 21 to
down from L L back

;
and 18;
h'rom
breast
to
is
to 8
is
1 is 1 incli
and
a line
A
G
to
is
waist length plus Yz inch D is

A and F square out
;
halfway between
is
from F through
inches; 21 to
down;
3^2
this
locates 22; square
is
square up and down from 18

inch: scjuare u].) from N to locate O.
to 18 is
to
yi breast;
breast (on square division) plus y'z inch
is IJ/^
is ?^
inch
Gyg inches; 8 to
is
J/j
draw
inches;
a line
draw
from
1 1
is
ti
From
;i
to S
is
inches;
where the armhole crosses the breast line square down from 3 to locate 4 4
inches; 5 ti)
is 3Vj inches; draw lines fmni
thmugh 5 to 7 and from 3 through
is
l^/z
square up and
halfway between B
from A tu
A to 10 is
and shape the back; point
a line
to (J
is
'f.
to 5 is lyi
G to 15.
T is halfway between P and S; point U is halfway bethrough

T
U up; A to 11 and L to V is Vs breast plus
from
Z
to U;
V to is -yg inch less than 11 to O; shape the shoul-
Yz waist; point
tween L and I draw a

der and armscye.
;
line
\'
from
Square forwards from V by line T-U \ to

is ''t breast plus yi inch; draw a
rounding line from
to J; \V to X is Yd breast; V to Y is yi breast; draw a line from
Y through X and shape the gorge. From J to 13 is 'S buttonstand, in this case 2J/2 inches;
S to 13 is the same; Q to R is 1 inch; place the square to points R-13 and square down;
this locates Ki; 1
to 17 is yi breast; now add U> the backpart from 3 to K, 1 inch and
from 7 to 11 the same; from 3 to 15 is the same distance as from K to 14; shape the bottom and linish.
;
(1
DIAGRAM
164
28;5
384
DIAGRAM
165
BOYS' SLEEVE
The
sleeve for children's coats
and cut the
slee\'e
made
is
as follows:
measure around the armscye closely
by the armscye.
Draw line A-F and square back to L

From A to I is ^ of the armscye square down from I from A to B is A of the armscye B to D is 34 of the armscye D to E is the same square out from B and D from D
to C is 1 inch; from C to H is }4 of the armscye; H to J is ^ inch; draw a line from C
draw a line from E to J.
to H point G is halfway between C and H
;
From A
from
to
to
is 1
is
armscye
;^ of the
inch;
to
is
inch for seams; point
is
to
from S
to
to
same
the
is
^2 inch
is
the
to
same from
;
is
inch;
D
F
to
to
is
is
the sleeve length
the same; place
from F to N is the width of the sleeve desired

to N
halfway between C and F; square back from T to locate
shape the upper and under sleeve as indicated.
is the same
G-F and square back
the square at
plus
DIAGRAM
166
BOYS' TROUSERS
Boys' trousers are cut as follows:
(for
measurements
see Table of Proportions for
Boys
and Youths).
Draw
A-D and
line
square out to
I.
From A to C is the rise; C to D is the mseam; C to 2 is !^ seat; square out from 2.

C and D from C to E is J/^ seat E to V is J^ seat G is halfway between C and V from D
to F is the same distance as C to G draw a line from F through G to get 7 from F to N is
F to O is the same square up from E to get I from I to K is 3/2 waist shape
yi bottom
;
the forepart as indicated.
THE BACKPART
Extend
From N
lines G-7, 1-K, 6-2,
to
is
2 to 3 is 134 inches;
pivoting at
N X
;
3/ inch
from
to \'
is
C-V and N-O.
O to R is the same; \' to U is I36 inches; U to 5 is 34

sweep from K
to X is H seat; draw a line from X to 6
;
'/,
waist plus
inch
shape .the backpart as shown and
inch;
to
finish.

DIAGRAM
DIAGRAM
165
166
385
286
DIAGRAM
167
NORFOLK COAT
Of course
tliere is
limit to the various styles
no
hut no matter what the style
may
be they must
how
This coat
to
made
be
The two Norfolk
after the various plaits are inserted.
as suggestions on
all
and ways of producing Norfolk Jackets,
coats
to the original pattern
shown here
are merely offered
produce same.
After the pattern
cut from the ordinary sack coat pattern.
is
come up
to
is
cut out as
usual, proceed as follows:
THE BACKPART
Point F
same; cut
is
tiie
halfwav between
]".
and
back through as marked;
from E
now add
to
a
seam
I3/4
is
tn the
inches;
(i
to
is
the
lower portiiin of the back
and add the same to the yoke.
The
forei)art is
and
1;
to
and from
yoke.
from
made
to
I
to
is
in the
same way.
jA inch;
add
seam
to
l'>om
is
to the
t<>
J is
inch;
is
the same; cut the pattern
halfway between
thmugh
as from
lower part of the front and the same to the
DIAGRAM
J (17
287
288
DIAGRAM
168
NORFOLK COAT
After the back and forepart are cut out proceed as follows: cut
on the forepart and backpart

the yoke and to the lower part
back;
split
Now
desired.
it
1,
the pattern
down
as
line 1-2
from
Lay
and
your yoke as marked
be cut according to taste.
Add
seam each
on the backpart represents about the center

to
3,
take a thin piece of paper, crease
to
of the
also through the waistline as 3-3.
o\er
it
in
either
two or three
plaits or as
many
as
the piece that has been cut out off the backpart on the folded piece and cut
according to the original pattern.

3,
may
this
ofif
That piece when opened up should look
as
shown here
4.
THE FOREPART
Split the forepart as
and
from
fold in plaits as explained
part and place
it
adding seams as
and sew the yoke
to E,
A-C and B-E.
on-
B and B
on the backpart
on the plaited piece;

at
to
Now
cut
set
it
to
A now
;
take a piece of soft paper
then take the piece that

uut
in
is
cut from the fore-
accordance with the original piece;
the piece back
in
again as the broken line shows
DIAGRAM
168
289
sno
TABLE OF PROPORTIONS
tor^horl
Îteamire^,
bif^recmh anS iMeiphl
FROM
NORMALS TO STOUTS
291
292
FOR
BOYS AND YOUTHS

COATS
AGE
293
A FEW REMARKS ABOUT MAKING COATS.

The canvas and
haircloth for
all
coats shmild be cut on the bias as
shown on Diagram
Some tailors
A; cut in this way, it will give freely at the gorge, shoulder and armhole.
the wrong
this
is
B;
Diagram
as
shown on
consider the canvas on the bias when cut
and
shoulder
gorge,
the
around
straight
way, because if cut in this way it will be on the
at
give
will
not
and
stiffness
produce
a
armscye, and unless cut in at several places will
the shoulder and armscye as
it
should.
Sack Coats Before sewing up the side seams it is well t<> shrink in the back from about
four inches below the armscye to the shoulder so as to form a pocket for the blade bone,
pocket
also put in a piece of stay linen at the back of the armscye so as to keep the blade
the
waist.
slightly
at
backpart
the
stretch
coat,
may
you
If a close-fitting sack
in place.
at
the
stretched
not
be
must
backpart
the
overcoat
On a straight hanging sack coat or
do
not
but
shoulder,
and
gorge
the
slightly
at
it
In pressing the canvas, stretch
waist.
stretch the cloth because the fulling in of the back at the shoulder seam, also the fulling
in of
the collar will give
all
the stretching needed.
dip the stay tape in water and press before using it. When ba.sting stay tape on the front edge, hold it short n\ er the breast and work the front edge m,
the edge
so that the roundness of the breast is pressed into the middle of the front and
The Edges Always
stout person, hold the stay tape short over the most prominent
rounding, which is over the waist. In all straight front coats, such as overcoats, doublebreasted sacks, or straight-front sacks, the front edges must be worked in until they are
becomes
For
straight.
straight.
In
sewing up the front seams always begin at the top, and, basting on
there
the upper sleeve, keep both upper and under sleeves even for about 3 inches; from
from
and
bottom
the
from
inches
down, hold the upper sleeve a little short to about 3
basting
and
on
top,
begin
also
seam,
back
there down, hold them even. When sewing up the
on the upper sleeve, keep them both even to the elbow: over the roundness of the elbow hold
The Sleeves
the upper sleeve easy, and from there down even.

When basting in the sleeve, begin with the right one and placing the
to the notch of the back hold it easy to about 1 inch beyond the shoulder
seam
seam
of the sleeve
;
from there
on full the sleeve in until the front notch of the sleeve reaches the front notch of the armhole;
from there hold the sleeve even until you reach the part of the armscye that is drawn
in with the stay linen and full the undersleeve in over the back.
The Collar Collars are to be put in easy in the hollow of the gorge for normal or
A
concave shoulder needs a longer collar than a normal shoulder.
don't
stretch
the
case,
cither
In
stout person needs a shorter collar than a normal person.
persons.
slim
collar stand.
FROCKS
In basting the sidebody to the front
and hold straight
all
the
always begin and keep them even
at the
armscye
way down.
THE SKIRT
of stay tape to
After the sideseam and fish are sewed and pressed open, baste a piece
after
.stretching,
from
it
the bottom, or the waist seam of the sidebody, so as to prevent
side
the
to
even
sidebody
and
which baste the skirt on, beginning at the side, hold the skirt
front.
to
the
even
on
there
from
seam. From there on for about 4 inches hold the skirt full, and
and keep both back and
In sewing the back to the sidebody, begin at the armscye
full the back in about Ya
sidebody even to about 4 inches from the waist; from there down
on
to it, and then only just
inch don't stretch the sidebody until after the back is sewed
enough to make the backseam straight shrink in the sidebody halfway.
;
i'M
V
.X
295
THE PLAITS
The proper way to make plaits is to put a baste in
mark stitch and press the roundness of the skirt in until
open as
if it
were a seam.
Pull the baste out and
it
is
y^
inch or a
the plait
is
seam back from the
straight; then press
ready to be joined to the
it
l>ack.
shoulder, collar and sleeves are the same as in tlie sack coats.
In double-breasted frocks or dress coats a.l tlie seams are joined the same as the singlebreasted coats, except that the rever is held slightly short over the breast and the bell
The
shape skirt needs but
little
fulness at the waist.
VESTS
vests cut bv this system need no collar stand, as the stand is cut on the vest.
the front edges are to be made straight with the stap tape, /. <., they
.\11
The Edges All

are to be
worked
until the
edge
is
straight and the fullness pressed into the middle of
the front.
The Shoulders The shoulders ought to bj stretched slightly and the back held
inches from
The Collar, if there be one, sh mid be held easy to about
over them.
;!
shoulder and from there held short to about
'i
full
the
inches from the front edge.
Double-breasted vests, with or without c illar, or dress vests with low openings should
have stay tape laid around the opening and held short so as to prevent the edge sticking
away from
the shirt front.
Double-breasted vests and double-breasted coats must have more breast worked
in
them
than single-breasted \ests or coats.
TROUSERS
backpart from the knee up and that but slightLet the notches come together
s|iil them.
Any
ly.
hold easy over the calf.
liackpart
tlie
knee
a
id
over
the
easy
forepart
hold
the
evenly
Avoid stretching trousers, except

stretching on the forepart
is
in the
sure to
Peg top trousers should have the roundness from over
the hip pressed into the back;
the forepart be held easy over the backpart from the hip to the knee; waistbands
should be held a little .short over the forepart, easy in hollow of the waist and even from
shapthere back; the right fly should be held easy in the hollow of the crotch. Let all the
let
ing be done by shrinking.
Do
not stretch.
296
INDEX
Page
INTRODUCTION
PREFACE
[[]
TREFACE TO THIRD EDITION
THE MEASURING OF THE HUMAN BODY
HOW TO MEASURE
HOW TO MEASURE, Continued
HOW TO MEASURE. Continued
FIRST LESSON FOR HRAFTINtJ A SACK
COAT
FIRST LESSON FOR DRAFTING A SACK
COAT. Continued
FIRST LESSON FOR DRAFTING A SACK
COAT. Continued
HOW TO
AI'I'LY
3
4
5
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
33
34
'.G
THE OVKRSHOULDBR
MEASURE
38
HOW TO MAKE THE CHANGE FOR A

LO SHOl LDEK
SO
SACK COAT FOR A FKiURE WITH A
LARGE BLADE
SACK COAT FOR A FIGURE WITH A
SMALL BLADE
TO CAUSE A SMALL FOLD AT THE BACK
OF THE ARM
TO INCREASE THE WIDTH OF THE
SHOULDER
SACK COAT FOR A SWAY-BACK FIGURE
TO CUT AN INCREASED SIZE COAT
HITHOUT DISTURBING THE BALANCE
FOUR-BUTTON STRAIGHT-HANGING SACK
BOX SAC K COAT
THREE-BUTTON STOUT MANS SACK
HOW TO POCKET A FAT JIAN'S COAT
THREE-BUTTON SACK COAT FOR A
CORPULENT FIGURE
DOUBLE BREASTED SACK COAT
DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK COAT FOB A
SToiT FKiCRE
THREE-BUTTON SACK
FOR
FROCK COAT
THREE-BUTTON FROCK, Continued
TO PROCURE THE PROPER SEAMS ON
A FROCK COAT
HOH- TO CHANGE A FROCK COAT PATTERN FOR A LOW SHOULDER
FIGURE WITH A FLAT BLADE AND A
FULL CHEST
FIGURE WITH A LARGE BLADE AND A
FLAT CHEST
THREE-BUTTON FROCK
THREE-BUTTON SACK FOR AN ATHLETE
FROCK COAT FOR A LARGE BREAST,
SMALL WAIST AND SLIGHTLY SWAYBACK
FROCK COAT. Continued
THREE-BUTTON FROCK FOR STOUT FIGl BE
THREE-BUTTON FROCK FOB A CORPULENT FKiUBE
ENGLISH AVALKING FP JK WITH SACK
FRONT
SINGLE-BREASTF
STRAIGHT-FRONT
FROCK
SINGLE-BREAS- iD
STRAIGHT-FRONT
FROCK FOR A STOUT FIGURE
36
38
40
43
44
46
48
50
53
54
SHAWL COLLAR TUXEDO

PEAKED LAPEL TUXEDO
HOW TO <iET A HIGH BACK SEAM
34
COAT
HUNCIi-BACK
^^
S3
58
60
63
4
Page
CLERGYMAN'S STRAIGHT-FRONT FROCK 94

CASSOCK
9g
CLERGYMAN'S STRAIGHT-FRONT SACK 98
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK
lOO
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK FOR A
STOUT FIGURE
i(j3
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK FOB A CORPULENT FIGURE
104
EVENING DRESS COAT
106
EVENING DRESS C<(AT FOR A STOUT
'<il'KE
108
EVENING DRESS COAT WITH BEVER
AND SKIRT STRAP IN ONE
110
EVENING DRESS COAT. Continued
113
SINGLE-BREASTED OÊRtOAT
114
SINGLE-BREASTED SHAPELV OVERCOAT 116
SINGLE-BREASTED SHAPELY OVERCOAT.
Continued
ji8
SHAPELY OVERCOAT FOR A STOUT FIGIKE
130
DOUBLE-BREASTED
OVERCOAT
FOR
STOUT FIGURE
133
SINGLE-BREASTED
L<OSE-HANGING
0\ ERCOAT
134
STBAUillT-HANGING OVERCOAT FOR A
STOUT FIGURE
136
DOUBLE-BREASTED ULSTER
138
SINGLE-BREASTED BOX 0\ ERCOAT
130
BOX 0\ERCOAT FOR A STOUT FIGURE 133
BOX OVERCOAT FOR A STOUT FIGl'BE.
Continued
143
DOUBLE-BRE.VSTED I'.VLETOT
144

FOR A CORPULENT FKiURE
SH ELL FOR FUR CO.YT
THE SLEEVE
THE SLEE\ E, Continued
SLEE\ E FOR BOX OVEKCO.VT
SLEEVE FOR V NARROW SHOULDER ...
146
0> ERCO.\T
66
8
R.VtiL.V.N
JO
15AL.MAC A.%N
73
74
134
DOUBLE-BREASTED OVERCOAT FOR A

STOUT FIGURE
SINGLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT..
SINGLE-BREASTIil) FROCK OVERCOAT
FOR .V STOIT FH:UKE
SINGLE-BREASTED PADDOCK OVERCO.V'f
THE SPLIT SLEEVE

THE WHOLE SLEEVE
BAL.WAC.YAN, Continued
BAL.MAC.Y-YN, Continued
B.VLMACAAN. Continued
BAL.MAC.YAN SLEE\ E
74
76
BALMACAAN SPLIT SLEE\E

SLEEVE. Continued
SEA.>I SPLIT SLEEVE
SLEEVE, Continued
78
T O
80
IN>ERNESS
SOUARE-SHOULDERED INVERNESS
SHOULDER CAPE
83
84
86
88
90
93
SHOULDER CAPE,
Continued
SPANISH CAPE
.MILITARY C.YPE
A HOOD
NAVAL OFFICER'S BLOUSE
COACH.MAN'S OR GROO.M'S FROCK UNDEBCO.YT
COACH.M.VN'S
136
138
140
148
l,-,0
ir,>
154
1
i(i
Ij8
160
163
163
164
'
MESH JACKET
CHAUFFEUR'S SACK
CHAUFFEUR'S OVBRCOAT
RIDING SACK
RIDING SACK. Continued
RIDING FROCK
COLLARS
SINGLE-BREASTED NO-COLLAR WAISTCOAT
SINGLE-BREASTED W.YISTCOAT WITH
NOTCH COLL.VR
WAISTCOAT FOR A FIGURE WITH A
LARGE BL.YDE
U.YISTCOAT FOR A FIGURE WITH A
FL.AT BLADE AND FULL CHEST
DOUBLE-BRE.4STED WAISTCOAT
H.VISTCOAT
CUT
WITH SEPARATE
REVER
CLERGYÎAN'S W.MSTCO.VT. Continued ...

CLERGYM.VN'S W.MSTCO.VT. Continued ...
SINGLE-BRE.VSTED W.VISTCOAT FOR A
HUNCH-B.VCK
TROUSERS
STOUT M-VN'S TROUSERS
PE<i-TOP TROUSERS
TROUSERS WITH L.VRGE LEGS
SPRlNti-BOTTOM TROISERS
lUtW TO .M.VMPULATE A PAIR OF TROUSERS FOR H.VCK HOW
BROAD AND N.VRROW FALLS
TROUSERS FOR BOW-LEGGED MEN
RIDING BREEHES
RIDINti BREECHES WITHOUT EXTENSIONS
CO.VCH.M.VN'S
168
173
174
176
178
180
182
184
186
188
190
193
194
196
200
303
%o*
goj
208
210
212
214
216
218
220
333
334
234
226
228
SINGLE-BREASTED NO-COLLAR VEST

FOR A STOUT FIGURE
SINGLE-BRE.YSTED
NO-COLLAR VEST
FOR A STOUT FIGURE. Continued
SINGLE-BRE.YSTED WAISTCOAT FOR A
CORPULENT FIGURE
DOUBLE-BREASTED WAISTCOAT FOR A
STOUT FIGURE
DOUBLE-BRE.VSTED WAISTCO.VT FOR A
STOUT FIGURE. Continued
SINGLE-BREASTED DRESS WAISTCOAT.
DOUBLE-BREASTED DRESS WAISTCOAT
CLERtiYJIAN'S WAISTCOAT
230
333
234
336
238
240
242
244
'346
348
'^50
*S3
254
56
258
260
260
262
364
266
268
370
272
274
BREECH ES
K.NICKEKBOCKERS
GOLFING BREECHES
FRONT SACK FOR A BOY

OF AGE
no DOUBLE-BREASTED S.VCK FOR A BOY.
16(i
198
FROCK OVERCOAT
FOOTMAN'S OR DOORMAN'S DRESS COAT
Page
FOOT.MAN'S COATEE
STR.VIGHT
6
YE.VRS
13 YEARS (Increased 3 sizes)

SINGLE-BREASTED OVERCOAT FOR A
BOY 10 YEARS
DOUBLE-BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT FOR
A BOY 16 YEARS
BOY'S SLEEVES AND TROUSERS
NORFOLK COAT
.
NORFOLK
CO.VT. Continued
T.VBLE OF PROPORTIONS, FOR SHORT

JIEASURES BY BRE.VSTS & HEKiHTS
TABLE OF PROPORTIONS FROM NORMALS TO STOUTS

T.VBLE OF PROPORTIONS FROM STOUTS
TO CORPULENTS
A FEW REMARKS ABOUT GARMENT
JI.YKING
REMARKS ON COAT
REMARKS ON COAT
276
378
380
282
284
286
288
390
291
292
293
.M.VKING.
Continued 394
.MAKING, Continued
295
"-t
b.
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
Ill
iiiiiiiiiiiiin
II
II
014 082 908

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American Garment Cutter

AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY

International Copyright, 1914

Entered According to Act of Congress in the Year 1914

American Fashion Company

All Rights Reserved

PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION

ance pending the publication of this edition, the

and second issues having

Whether it be a Practical Cutter or Tailor, or one totally unacquainted

scope every outer garment worn by man.

AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER

THE MEASURING OF THE HUMAN BODY.

fact that in order to perfectly

cannot be too often urged upon the cutter, and

not only that,

that ninety-nine out of one

perhaps, while being measured. It is

measurements are required,

will pose, unconsciously

standing erect, with shoulders

opinion was asked as to whether actual measurements or proportions were the

dence and certainty.

only correct line needed for attitude is the horizontal

being the breast

find that the

one-half inch too deep, so is the front shoulder length, and

the scye depth

The next important measurement

the waist indentation.

that the greater

AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER

AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER

place the short end of the square under the

keeping the inner edge of

long end upwartl (see Fig.

close, but not tight, at the front scye

at the front scye.

AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER

AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER

mark shown on the

blade line cross.

AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER

AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER

After the length

obtained, proceed as per -Fig.

on the backpart on each

same distance from

AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER

AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER

tape string around the liollow part of the waist and

to 1) six inches for the liip measure.

measure, you must be right.

the waist length at C.

easilv imdcrstood that

you go down the same ihstance

AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER

AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER

hollow of the waist to see

the average indentation at that place

shall explain later

between the waist hollow and the

AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER