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How to Crack Eggs Like a

Badass
DANIEL GRITZER

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Cracking eggs quickly means cracking them onehanded. [Photographs: Vicky Wasik]
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Breakfast
Everything you need to make the most important meal of the day delicious.

I once had the honor of spending an

afternoon cooking omelets with the
legendary chef Andr Soltner. It's a task
that seems simple but of course isn't,
and for that reason making an omelet
was what chefs would ask prospective
employees to cook as an audition. As the
well-known refrain goes, everything you
need to know about a cook, you can
learn by observing them make an
omelet.
Interestingly, Soltner's lesson didn't start
with the omelet. It started with cracking
eggs. I'd been cracking eggs my whole
life, but I had no idea just how detailed a
person could be about the right way to
do it. His method was rooted in extreme
resourcefulness: Soltner grew up in
wartime France, when food was often
scarce. An egg, in those years, was
beyond precious, a source of nutrition
and sustenance like little else. To waste
even a drop of it was unthinkable.
He showed me how to crack the egg,
split the shell in two, dropping the white
and yolk into a bowl, then cradle each
half in his fingers, freeing his thumbs to

carefully scrape every last bit of white

from the shell halves. His method was
deft, efficient, and beyond thorough.
Well, that's not what I'm here to show
you today. Instead, I'm going to show
you the exact opposite. You see, there
are timessuch as war and perhaps a
calm weekend morning when you're
taking the time to make the most
painstaking omelet of your life for
yourself and maybe, maybe a loved
onewhen that kind of care is essential.
But then there are other times when
speed, crude and rough, is all that
matters.
As a guy who used to work a Saturday
night dinner shift and then return to the
restaurant early the next morning for a
Sunday brunch that stretched into a
dinner service, at least 15-hours on my
feet working non-stop from start-tofinish, I know that sometimes you need
to crack a lot of eggs as freaking quickly
as possible.
For home cooks, speed-cracking is not
something you need to do every day. But
sometimes it comes in handy. Let's say
you've rented a house on a lake with
your friends, a whole big bunch of them
plus all the significant others. And you
wake up one chilly morning and decide
to make scrambled eggs for the crowd.

Sure, you could break the eggs one-byone, semi-carefully, the way most of us
normally do. But this is a moment that is
crying out for some badassery. This is
when you want to stand there in that
rented kitchen and bang those motherfers out like nobody's business. Your
friends will be astonished. They'll also be
fed more quickly.
To do it, there's only one thing you need
to know: how to crack an egg with
one hand.

HOW TO CRACK AN EGG WITH ONE HAND

This is one of those things that's easier
shown than with words, but I'll try my
best. First, a few observations:

Not all eggs are created equal: Some

eggs have firm, thick shells that are
easier to split cleanly; others are soft and
weak and will crush and crumble in your
hand. You can do this technique with
either kind, just be prepared to adapt to
these differences in shell strength.
There is no way of doing this technique
that will guarantee you no shell
fragments end up in the eggs. Heck,
there's no way to crack eggs carefully
and have them always be shell-free. If
you're doing one or two dozen eggs, you
can just pick out the few bits of shell that
may get in the bowl; if you're doing

more, you can borrow a common

restaurant technique of cracking the
eggs into a China cap, then pushing
them through by plunging up and down
with the bottom of a ladle. Any shells will
be strained out and your eggs will come
out pre-scrambled from the other side
(then be sure to pre-salt them for best
results).

This technique works best for eggs that

you are going to beat, such as for
omelets, scrambles eggs, frittatas, etc. If
you want a sunny-side-up egg, you can
do it one-handed, but there's more risk
that the yolk will break.

Winco CCS-12F China Cap Strainer, 12-Inch Diameter, Fine Mesh

$30.61 on Amazon
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A China cap can help catch shell fragments.

Okay, so now that we're ready to get
cracking, here's how to do it. You
basically have two choices: you can
either crack an egg in one hand while the
other reaches for the next egg, or you
can break two eggs at once with one in
each hand, then grab the next two, on
and on. I'm a lefty, so if I were doing the
first method, I'd single-hand crack with
my left hand while my right was grabbing
the next egg. But, because I'm a lefty,
I'm also accustomed to using my right

hand often (damn you, right-handed

scissors!), so I'm comfortable taking one
egg in each hand, banging them both
out at once, and then grabbing the next
two. You can do it either way, it really
doesn't matter.

THE ONE-HANDED CRACK-ANDREACH

Like a competitive hot-dog eater who

reaches for the next dog with one hand
while stuffing the first down the gullet,
this move is all about carefully-timed
coordination. Pulling this one off is like
patting your head and rubbing your belly
at the same timefig.

The key is being able to direct your nondominant hand for the next egg, while
you're simultaneously firing off the
current one in your main hand. If you
were an archer, it'd be like shooting an
arrow with one hand while grabbing the
next from the quiver. That's a badass
move if I ever heard of one. With the
cracking and reaching happening at
once, as an onomatopoeia it would
go: creach, creach, creach...or
maybe, rack, rack, rack...

OKAY, BUT WAIT, HOW AM I

ACTUALLY CRACKING THIS EGG
IN ONE HAND?

Ah, I was hoping you wouldn't ask that. I

have a feeling each person may do this a
slightly different way. But I'll tell you how
I do it: I cradle the egg in my hand, in a
grip that's somewhere between allfingers and full-on palm. I make sure that
I have my pinky and ring fingers gripping
the bottom (wider) half of the egg, and
my middle, index, and thumb on the top
half. Using this grip, there should be one
side of the egg still exposed and not
covered by your hand or fingersI
whack that exposed part against
whatever cracking surface I'm using.
Then, holding the base of the egg steady
with my pinky and ring finger, I pry the
top half open with my other fingers. The
egg should drop out into the bowl or
China cap below.
It's not unlike the motion you might use
to pop a soda can open one-handed,
except with a soda can the thumb usually
joins the ring and pinky fingers in
steadying the can while the index and
middle fingers (or maybe just the index
finger) pry the tab. Here the thumb and
middle fingers are helping out on that
prying action.
Is this making sense? Yes? Great! No? Go
grab an egg, I guarantee you that you'll
figure it out. Or just look at the photos
and gifs we've included here.

THE TWO-HANDED SMASH-ANDBASH

For some folks, especially those with one

hand that's way more dominant than the
other, the One-Handed Crack-and-Reach
may be the way to go. For those of us
who are more ambidextrous, the TwoHanded Smash-and-Bash can be easier.
Why? Because commanding one hand to
do one thing while sending brain signals
to the other to do something totally
different is way trickier than it should be
for Earth's most intelligent life form. If
you have good control over both hands,
it's way less taxing on your brain to have
them mirror each other. And that's
where the Two-Handed Smash-and-Bash
comes in.

Here, you're going to grab one egg in

each hand, then simultaneously crack
them against your cracking surface. It's
freaking gorgeous.

And that's it! Granted, this is not an

essential kitchen skill. It may even be
forbidden in the pristine galleys of Per
Se, Noma, or the Fat Duck. But there's a
time and a place for everything.
Sometimes you need the precision of a
brain surgeon, and sometimes you've
got ten guys bleeding out from gunshot
wounds and slow-and-steady just ain't
gonna cut it.
In those moments, you Crack-and-Reach
and Smash-and-Bash your way to some
hardcore badass renegade Rambo
eggs.*
* Legal disclaimer to be speed-red in a
lawyerly voice: No matter how fast you crack
your eggs, you are still responsible for how
you cook them: scrambled eggs should still be
softly cooked and moist; omelets should have
minimal-to-no browning and be slightly runny
on the inside; frittatas should be as tender and
delicate as a baby's bottom.
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DANIEL GRITZER CULINARY DIRECTOR

PROFILE

TWITTER

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In his restaurant days, he cooked at some of New York's top American, Italian and French
kitchens - starting at the age of 13, when he began staging at the legendary restaurant
Chanterelle. After college he spent nearly a year working on organic farms in Italy, where
he tended to livestock, harvested wine grapes, and planted an olive orchard and a
vineyard. Five years later, he returned to Europe, this time harvesting almonds
andPadron peppers in Spain, shepherding a flock of more than 200 sheep in Italy, and
making charcuterie in France. When not working on, thinking about, cooking and eating
food, he blows off steam (and calories) as an instructor of capoeira, the afro-brazilian
martial art.
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39 COMMENTS

okupin11:19AM on 10/30/14
Awesome, Daniel! On the more "pristine" side--I asked Kenji a while ago about
a comment that Sara Moulton made on ATK. She claimed cracking an egg on a
flat surface such as a countertop produced a cleaner break with fewer
fragments than cracking it over the edge of a bowl. Kenji hinted there could be
a little turbo Food Lab experiment on it. Any chance you'll take up the
gauntlet?
selyar11:26AM on 10/30/14

i always crack on a flat surface. i find it far superior. i've never done the double
smash and bash before, but i'm totally trying it this weekend!
J. Kenji Lpez-AltSTAFF11:50AM on 10/30/14
@okupin
Actually Daniel started testing egg cracking techniques (and I did a little bit
myself). We decided it wasn't particularly worth writing about. The headline
would have been something like "We Cracked 500 Eggs to Discover You're
Probably Already Doing it Right."
Not exactly compelling reading. :)
okupin12:08PM on 10/30/14
@Kenji--OK good to know, thanks.
agfish12:20PM on 10/30/14
Must add a comment here. Although the risk is quite small, the method of
cracking the egg on the bowl - either the rim or the interior, leaves the minimal
possibility of carrying some additional bacteria into the bowl from the egg shell
surface. I doubt that anyone washes their egg shells prior to cracking. In that
regard, Mr. Gritzer is violating a safe workspace procedure. Granted, for most
home cooks, it is a bit over the top, but safe kitchen tecnique should have at
least been stated as well.
When I worked in a French bakery for a while I was responsible on my shift for
prepping the brioche dough, and I'd have to crack somewhere like 120 or more
eggs at a time, can't quite remember anymore. The first few times that I tried
the one-hand method I was a lost cause, but it eventually became second
nature.
J. Kenji Lpez-AltSTAFF12:38PM on 10/30/14
@agfish
In the U.S. eggs are scrubbed and washed before they're packed for market so
the risk of any kind of bacterial infection is insanely small. Actually, more folks
get salmonella poisoning from infected fruits and vegetables (particularly
cantaloupe) than eggs these days in this country. Eggs are quite clean.

The downside is that the cleaning methods used in the U.S. also wash off the
waxy cuticle that surrounds eggs to they are more prone to subsequent reinfection from outside bacteria, which is why eggs in the U.S. are sold
refrigerated.
Not so in Europe where eggs are rinsed but are left un-washed so that the
cuticle remains. European eggs are at a higher risk for salmonella poisoning, but
can be stored and sold at room temperature.
Daniel Gritzer1:02PM on 10/30/14
@agfish I'd also add that after testing several cracking methods (which @kenji
mentioned above), I think avoiding exposure to the exterior of the shell is
almost impossible no matter how you crack the eggs. Here's what I mean: A lot
of people say not to crack on the rim of a bowl because it has a higher chance
of driving shell fragments into the egg, and then having them fall into the bowl.
But after cracking lots of eggs, I had roughly similar rates of shell contamination
from both flat-surface cracking and rim cracking, maybe marginally more for the
rim (I don't have my numbers in front of me). But cracking on a flat surface has
its own problems: white inevitably leaks out of the egg when you tap it, getting
it on the flat surface you're using. If you're using a counter, you now have egg
on the counter. Subsequent eggs then dip in the wetness from the prior eggs,
which mixes it all up even more. Plus, any time a shell fragment falls into the
eggs, you're technically making contact with the exterior of the shell and the
eggs. Bottom line: Even if you tried really hard, I don't see a good way of
preventing the exterior of the egg shell from coming into contact with
something; it's practically inevitable when cracking an egg. So you have to
choose where you're going to have that exposure happen. If anything, cracking
in or on the bowl itself is the least bad of all possible ways, since you're keeping
the eggs contained to the bowl, and you're then going to cook those eggs
anyway. Not so for cracking outside the bowl, which then requires sterilizing
that surface if you are really concerned about pathogens. But, like Kenji said,
I'm not actually hyper concerned about the issue with eggs, beyond basic good
practices.
agfish1:26PM on 10/30/14

KL-A & DG - thanks for the quick response and some clarification for me and
other readers.
Double_J2:44PM on 10/30/14
I forget where I saw the tip but should you get pieces of egg shell into your
eggs, fish them out with another piece of egg shell. I have no idea why it works,
but it's almost like the egg shells are magically attracted to each other. None of
that stupid painful chasing of egg shells around the bowl.
Christina's Bookshelf3:49PM on 10/30/14
My husband can crack 4 eggs at a time, 2 in each hand. He developed that
technique when making scrambled eggs for about 1000 people one morning,
when Sysco forgot to send carton eggs & sent eggs in the shell instead. (He had
developed serious egg cracking skills before that when making omelets to
order for hundreds of people per day.)
I am doing good just to get one egg cracked at a time without getting egg
everywhere. I tend to either hit the egg too hard, so the egg shell crumbles, or
too soft, so there is just the tiniest crack.
kmayers0:47AM on 10/31/14
That's the way I've always cracked eggs. Evidently, I'm a badass ;-)
Mawich4:33AM on 11/01/14
Sorry but why do people always say that omelettes should have minimal
browning? The only ones I've had with minimal browning are damp and insipid
throughout and this is not tasty and delicious.
Perhaps I've never had a truly great omelette :(
Meg O2:13PM on 11/01/14
When cracking eggs, I always think of this scene from the Audrey Hepburn
movie "Sabrina": http://youtu.be/5t3Iuoln2WQ
dtremit4:57PM on 11/01/14
@kenji "European eggs are at a higher risk for salmonella poisoning, but can be
stored and sold at room temperature."

That may be theoretically true, but Europe is much more aggressive about
preventing salmonella in the chickens in the first place.
Daniel Gritzer11:45PM on 11/02/14
@Mawich Reasoning behind a classic French omelet is that eggs remain tender
(not tough) on the surface and moist and runny inside when cooked gently,
which are the hallmarks of a good classic omelet. Browning usually corresponds
to some surface toughness (sort of like a hard-cooked texture), plus there's the
flavor of browned egg, which I guess isn't considered desirable. But of course
it's ultimately a matter of personal taste, so feel free to brown your eggs as
much as you like, if that's how you like them.
J. Kenji Lpez-AltSTAFF2:07AM on 11/03/14
For me omelets aren't an either/or thing. Sometimes I like that classic French
pale golden, tender/runny in the middle, rolled into a cigar thing. Other times I
want a more American diner-style omelette which is generally browned, cooked
through, and folded in half. Still other times I want the omelets my mom made
which were somewhere in between with semi-scrambled eggs that were
definitely browned on the surfaces, but were still runny when she did a sort of
envelope fold on them. I think those omelets were something ofya a cross
between a Japanese tamagoyaki and the omelet she learned from the Frugal
Gourmet.
I have distinct memories of her saying "If you don't want a watery omelet, add
water to it," reciting the line from this episode where Jeff Mason explains that
milk added to the eggs will make for a more watery omelet than water added
to the eggs. He's right (though for the wrong reasons).
J. Kenji Lpez-AltSTAFF2:09AM on 11/03/14
And oh man, I just re-watched that episode and realized how much of my early
culinary education was based on totally flawed premises. He not only makes
mistakes talking about milk in eggs, but he misteaches the oft-recited "mixing
butter and oil will raise the smoke point" (it won't) and pre-salting eggs makes
them tough (it doesn't).
J. Kenji Lpez-AltSTAFF2:24AM on 11/03/14
Sorry for the triple comments. But this Jacques Pepin video on omelets is THE
best demo I've seen. He shows perfect technique for how to make both styles

of omelet, browned rustic, and classic pale French. He also very rightly repeats
that one is not better or worse than the other, they're just different. It's ok to
like both :)
Rosie J12:04PM on 11/03/14
@Meg O: I saw that movie as a young teenager, and that's when the lightbulb
went off in my head. Cracking eggs didn't require two hands!
I can typically crack eggs now with just one strike against a hard surface, and
rarely with shell fragments, but it's taken years of practice. I'm a little more
careful when I'm going to separate the eggs, though, because sometimes I
wind up with the shell cracking more vertically than horizontally and I like to use
the shell for separating.
carriemc4:37PM on 11/03/14
@ Kenji: Did you mean Jeff Smith?
BKF5:03PM on 11/03/14
@KL-A Thanks for the Jacques Pepin link. That is an awesome demo.
Fundamentals like that can go a long ways for those of us who have never had a
formal culinary education.
@DG I've found that I end up with a mess if I try to crack my eggs on the flat,
with a much higher likelihood of getting shells in my eggs. I usually do the one
handed crack, though I've tried the double handed approach with pretty good
results.
kman4846:04PM on 11/03/14
Three points:
1. Jacques Pepin is plenty enough badass for me, and notice that he carefully
cracks the eggs on the table, to minimize the chance of contamination, as he
often states.
2. Contrary to Jacques, Escoffier states that you should let the butter brown:
"Heat the butter in an omelette pan until it just begins to turn brown, this will
not only give an excellent flavour to the omelette, but will also provide the
required amount. of heat necessary to ensure the correct setting of the eggs."
(Cracknell and Kaufmann translation of Le Guide Culinaire, Wiley, 1979). I

wonder what Daniel and Kenji have to say about this?

3. Notice that Jacques scrapes away with his metal fork on a teflon pan. He was
once asked about this, and he said that he gets so many for free that he can
afford to replace them as often as he likes--for us mere mortals, not
recommended. In fact, if you don't wish to unnecessarily aggravate your
mortality, you should avoid Teflon altogether--it's a nasty toxic brew. I have a
well-seasoned carbon steel omelette pan--I recommend it as a means to a more
healthful omelette.
Nashwill6:58PM on 11/03/14
My main man for omelets is Eric Ripert, one of whose videos demonstrates his
method of letting the butter JUST melt, no sizzling, then pouring in seasoned
LIGHTLY beaten egg. Shake the pan to keep the egg floating free until it
begins to set, then lift around the edges to let the liquid egg run under. Add
the cheese etc. while there's still uncooked egg on top, fold and let sit with the
burner off (or the pan off if it's electric). NO brown at all, and the only problem
is it's too tender to fold vigorously I don't do them that way all the time,
because if it's packed with lumpy stuff like avocados it'll just fall apart.
I must say that my mother made the "omelet" she grew up with, puffy and dry
and scorched brown to black, which she considered the "best part"! It just
tasted like burnt hair to me, and still does. As for frittatas, Daniel, egg frizzled
brown in hot fat, is the only brown egg I can tolerate in fact I love it so when
I'm making a frittata just for me it's alway lacy brown around the edges!
As for breaking eggs, well, Mom taught me to break them against a sharp edge
over 60 years ago, and I ain't stopping that now.
MRubenzahl8:23PM on 11/03/14
I think there are 500 ways to make an omelet and 498 of them are just fine. But
I sure wish there were two names - one for the classic French and a different
name of the big, honkin', puffy American style.
@kenji and @daniel, wish you would reconsider the article on cracking them on
an edge because soooo many food gurus swear by the flat surface. Even Alton
Brown, in a rare case where I disagree, says it prevents "shrapnel."

Not for me, it doesn't. With the normal variation of shells and size, I find it
impossible to get the force such that it neatly opens the egg without leaving a
booger of egg white on the counter.
I thought I had a clever idea. Drop the egg from a specific height. That
guarantees the same striking force. Didn't work for me. I just don't get cracking
on the flat.
Rosie J0:51AM on 11/04/14
Thinking about it more, I wonder if the fragment/no fragment issue isn't more a
matter of what you do after the eggs are cracked than where you cracked them.
I don't remember seeing a demonstrable difference in the frequency of
fragments in the egg when I switched from edge of the bowl to a flat surface.
By that point I'd pretty much developed the muscle memory for the amount of
force to apply to get the shell to open without crushing it.
It might have to do with how you're applying force. I no longer use the tips of
fingers, but rather the joint of my thumb, which I imagine spreads the impact
over more of the shell's surface.
J. Kenji Lpez-AltSTAFF2:00AM on 11/04/14
@carriemc
oh, yeah. Whoops. Smith!
@kman484
1. Jacques Pepin does come from another country and another era, one in
which eggs posed much more danger. There's really pretty much close to zero
chance of contamination when using an inspected U.S. egg. They scrub and
sterilize them.
2. Jacques demonstrates two distinct methods of making an omelet. One uses
browned butter, the other doesn't. Personally I sometimes feel like one,
sometimes the other. No right answer here.
3. A carbon steel omelet pan is definitely the way to go!
Bigbananafeet7:31AM on 11/04/14

The funnest way to crack an egg is to bonk it slightly firmly, pointy side up, on
the kitchen counter.....where it will sit on its slightly cracked, now flat, base,
which I think is the cleverest thing ever.
Makes actually breaking it into the pan a bit messy, but it's a very neat cool trick
otherwise!
BKF8:59AM on 11/04/14
@MRubenzahl @Nashwill I'm with you on the edge cracking. I wonder too if the
type of edge makes a difference. There's a huge difference between a mixing
bowl with a lip and a prep bowl with a very fine edge. I almost always am
cracking my eggs into a prep bowl.
I've had very little success cracking on the flat without leaving a glob of egg on
my board or counter. It's the edge for me.
jim s12:17PM on 11/04/14
Tip for flat surface egg crackers:
Go to Costco and buy the cheapest paper plates they sell and crack away, no
counter contamination, no clean up. Now go wash your hands before you touch
anything. Just one of many uses for cheap paper plates.
Kenji do I get a free 1yr. subscription to CI for this tip?
J. Kenji Lpez-AltSTAFF12:23PM on 11/04/14
@jim s
As a now-San Franciscan, I gotta say that throwing out a paper plate every time
you crack an egg seems pretty darn wasteful to me. Why not just wipe down
the counter when you're done?
jim s12:47PM on 11/04/14
Because the paper plate is the same price (620 plates for $7.00) or a few 10ths
of a cent more than the price of a paper towel (cheaper if you add in your
cleaning agent), and I'm cracking at least 6 eggs at a time. Plus I'm a cross
contamination freak.
carriemc12:53PM on 11/04/14

@jim s: Why paper plates v. paper towels? I wipe up my counter or cutting

board with a sponge and a weak water/bleach spray, it costs almost nothing,
wastes nothing, and I have yet to get sick from any cross contamination.
J. Kenji Lpez-AltSTAFF1:15PM on 11/04/14
@jim s
Use a regular plate or a sponge?
jim s2:01PM on 11/04/14
The diluted bleach thing doesn't work for me. Put a little bleach on your fingers
and see how hard it is to rinse away. And the people that tell you to clean your
cooking surfaces with bleach solutions are also the same people that let the
poultry salmonella, beef/produce E. coli problem get out of hand.
Spend 3 days in bed with the chills lying in the fetal position making frequent
sprints to the bathroom while fluids are coming out of both ends with violent
force simultaneously, causes one to be very vigilant about food safety. The
Cause: Burger King Cheese Whopper 31 years ago.
carriemc2:17PM on 11/04/14
The bleach is beside the point. I think Kenji's point is that it's environmentally
irresponsible to throw away a paper plate/towel/whatever every time you crack
an egg. He's right...use a regular plate and wash it with the rest of your dishes.
No free CI subscription for you!
sassypantscooks2:36PM on 11/04/14
For whatever reason, I cannot crack eggs single-handed with my dominant
hand. I'm a righty, and can only crack eggs single-handed with my left hand.
Weird.
scaffnet7:50PM on 11/04/14
I've had backyard birds for 10+ years and I find it very challenging to anticipate
an incredibly soft shelled egg vs. an iron egg. They vary so much. I've given up
on the one handed technique because it too often led to a smashed pile of egg
and shells from a random soft shelled egg. When you understand how
expensive your own eggs are to produce, you don't want to waste a single
drop, let alone a whole egg!

kman4844:12PM on 11/05/14
Kenji--But Jacques talks about browning only a "country" omelette--not the
classic omelette. Escoffier recommends letting the butter brown for what would
presumably be considered a classic omelette, with small curds, etc.--what's
more classic than Escoffier? I wonder if you could cook it quickly enough in
brown butter to benefit from the flavor of brown better without actually
browning the omelette--something to experiment on tout de suite.
shiv3:07AM on 09/10/15
waw...
amazing style....

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