Leaving For Lesvos

26/11/2016
Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees
Leaving for Lesvos
One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees
Final thought
IMAGE ~ MARCH 20, 2016 ~ LEAVINGFORLESVOS ~ 2 COMMENTS
https://leavingforlesvos.wordpress.com/page/3/
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Leaving Lesvos
MARCH 20, 2016 ~ LEAVINGFORLESVOS ~ 1 COMMENT
It has been over three weeks since I landed on this beautiful island. My head and heart are full with
everything I have seen and learned while Ive been here. I hope that my ramblings have made it all
just a little more real for others who live so far away from the chaos that is playing out here,
throughout Greece, and everywhere the refugees are passing through.
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The EU and Turkey signed an historic agreement

(http://www.nytimes.com/2016/03/20/world/europe/migrants-lament-as-deal-with-turkeycloses-door-to-europe.html?ref=world)on Thursday that is supposed to go into effect today. It is
problematic on many levels, not the least of which is that it violates international law with respect to
treatment of refugees, but it remains to be seen if it will stand and how it will be implemented. Here
are the take-home concepts:
Turkey will take back all migrants who arrive in Greece starting today, March 20.
Turkey will get $6.79 billion from European countries by December 2018.
For each Syrian who crosses illegally into Greece and is returned to Turkey, one Syrian will be
transported to Europe as a legal refugee. Those who attempt to cross illegally will be at the bottom
of the list of refugees who can go legally to Europe under this provision.
The total number of Syrian refugees Europe will accept from Turkey under this agreement is
capped at 72,000 (over one million arrived in Turkey last year).
Turkey gets fast-tracked toward consideration of admission into the EU, but there are numerous
negotiations that are must happen successfully for this to move forward.
Turkish citizens get fast-tracked toward visa-free travel to the EU but only if Ankara meets 72
conditions.
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On paper the agreement looks consistent with EU and international law, but the problem is that
many of the safeguards cant be put in place by March 20, said Vincent Cochetel, the United
Nations refugee agency director for Europe.
The Vatican also criticized the deal. Cardinal Pietro Parolin, the highest Vatican ofcial after the
pope, said that faced with the serious drama of migrants, we should feel it humiliating to shut
doors, as if humanitarian law, won with such toil by our Europe, no longer has a place here.
Wall Street Journal, March 18, 2016 (http://www.wsj.com/articles/turkey-european-union-lookto-strike-deal-on-migration-crisis-1458292486).
It is unclear to me what this means for the tens of thousands of multi-ethnic refugees alreadyin
Greece, what it means for the non-Syrians who come into Greece after today, nor what the asylum
process will be here in Greece for future arrivals.
I spent my last day in Moria Camp on Friday. It was much like the others except for the drama
created by a ght in the residential huts at the base of the hill in the morning. I later learned that
ghts happen every day, but seldom come to sticuffs like they did yesterday. Emotions were very
high and the air was denitely crackling as volunteers and residents stepped in to break up the
argument over blankets. This is what happens when people are just so very stressed and their
home is reduced to the pile of blankets they carry in and out of a temporary hut each day. I dont
know any more details, and the details are probably unimportant. Really it is just an indication of
how traumatized these people are and how fundamental their world is right now.
As I walked around the camp, I recognized that Im ready to leave. Ive done enough for now and
need to go home to reenergize and process all that Ive observed and heard. Its a lot.
Some conclusions from the last few weeks:
This crisis is messy and confusing and complicated like a sticky spider web thats been crumpled
and tattered.
The real-life individuals involved in this are a lot like us. They look like us, they want the same
things we want, and they have the same strengths and weaknesses we see around us in our daily
life wherever we live and work and go to school and make our communities. This is true of both
refugees and volunteers.
Volunteers are making a difference, but we are standing with our ngers in the holes in the dike
while the necessary structural repairs await system-level action that never seems to come.
Refugees biggest need may not be food, shelter, clothing. It is probably accurate information.
Despite the cell phones that link them to family around the world, they are sorely lacking in
accurate timely information that can really be used to make big decisions for themselves while
governments are making enormous decisions that determine their futures. One organization,
newsthatmoves.org (http://www.newsthatmoves.org), attempts to post critical information for
them and in their languages, but that it is brief and limited, nowhere near as comprehensive as
what the refugees need. From the rst step they take inside of Moria, to the last step they take into
their new country of residence, everything is confusing and overwhelming. As I often remind
myself when I cant gure things out at home, I have a PhD and I cant gure it out! How is
anyone supposed to know what to do? That applies more than ever in this situation. Knowledge
is power, and their lack of knowledge keeps these people powerless, day after day.
Greece is an interesting, beautiful, charming, gritty country whose residents have those same
characteristics. She has an incredible, rich, long history and is struggling to survive a terrible and
painful present.
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McVities makes a dark chocolate version of their digestive biscuit, and it is possible for one person
to eat two boxes in one 24-hour period.
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I saw a German Shepherd kill a terrier on the village street yesterday, and I was reminded that it is
a dog-eat-dog world, quite literally. But, I still want to believe that humans are better than that.
We have to be.
Ive done good work. I didnt plunge into the Aegean Sea and pull babies out of boats, but I
helped a lot of people get fed and sheltered and have hope, and I feel good about that. Im very
lucky.
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The world is watching. Or isit?

MARCH 17, 2016MARCH 19, 2016 ~ LEAVINGFORLESVOS ~ LEAVE A COMMENT
Angelina Jolie is coming! Shes coming! She might be coming! Hmmm. Guess shes not coming after
all. Well, that was certainly a disappointment to the government and NGO reps who were excited to
show Angelina all thats lovely and delightful about Moria. On Wednesday morning, word was
circulating (http://www.keeptalkinggreece.com/2016/03/15/angelina-jolie-to-visit-refugees-onlesvos-in-her-role-as-unhcr-special-envoy/) among the volunteers that Angelina was coming to visit
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Moria. Refugees were allowed to stay in the rooms unlike on typical days when they have to be out
from 8-3 to allow for cleaning. Government workers even removed a layer of razor wire from the
exterior walls of the camps (as if that changes the lovely view of several more layers of razor wire).
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Entrance gate at front of Moria Camp.
Grafti on barricade wall.
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But, alas, Angie changed her mind, dissed Lesbos completely, and headed north directly to Idomeni
without even as much as a wave and a smile. No time to visit Moria, Skala or Kara Tepe on this trip.
Sarcasm aside, the real tragedy right now is denitely in Idomeni, so if the Good Will Ambassador
and Special Envoy for the United Nations High Commission for Refugeescan only make one stop,
she is choosing the most appropriate place to call world-wide attention to the crisis.
Last week in Idomeni, I shared a hotel, a restaurant and an airplane with Jim Yardley, New York
Times Rome Bureau Chief, who was working on a story. His piece
(http://www.nytimes.com/2016/03/18/world/europe/greece-idomeni-refugees.html?
hp&action=click&pgtype=Homepage&clickSource=story-heading&module=photo-spotregion&region=top-news&WT.nav=top-news)came out today and is a nice summary of the refugee
impact on Greece and Greeces impact on the refugeespersonal stories that hit hard. The writing
and photos are excellent. Everything he says rings true to what Ive seen in each of the places where
our paths crossed.
For those who are asking, how did it come to this, I have to say, Well, go back a century. Historians
know what I am talking about: the Sykes-Picot Agreement of 1916 and the Cairo Conference.
Courtesy of Cosmo
Learning.
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Attendees to the Cairo Conference 1921. Courtesy of Clio Visualizing History.
I have read two books recently that really help explain the history that led up to this debacle. I can
recommend both of them: Mary Doria Russells Dreamers of the Day
(http://marydoriarussell.net/novels/dreamers-of-the-day/)is a ctionalized account of the Cairo
Conference which describes the cavalier way in which European dignitaries drew political
boundaries for the current Middle East; Lawrence Wrights The Looming Tower
(http://www.lawrencewright.com/books/#the-looming-tower-al-qaeda-and-the-road-to-9-11): Al
Qaeda and the Road to 9/11 takes the long view to understanding the development of Al Qaeda; his
analysis has relevance for the current refugee crisis and the development of ISIS in the region.
Book a vacation toMolyvos!

MARCH 16, 2016 ~ LEAVINGFORLESVOS ~ 1 COMMENT
Alright, maybe you never considered a vacation on a Greek island. Or maybe, you didnt think it was
appealing until you heard that half of Syria was headed here and maybe they knew something you
didnt. Whatever the rationale, Im here to conrm that a vacation to Molyvos is a GREAT idea, and
now more than ever. Really.
I spent today taking it easy again and recovering from the damage done by my internal storm while
the north end of the island recovered from the wind storm outside. I walked into Molyvos and visited
the castle properly (had only seen it from the outside before), admired the incredible views, and
stopped at the local bakery for an 80 cent raisin bread. Yep, 80 cents, folks. You cant get a better
vacation deal in Europe right now than this island. Im convinced of it. Unfortunately, due to the the
refugee crisis, the usual vacationers are canceling their regular visits planned for this summer,
bookings are down about 80% according to some sources, and the locals are really concerned about
how they will survive the summer season without customers. As if Greece didnt already have it bad
economically, this is a blow to the knees for sure.
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So, in an effort to entice friends and family to consider a vacation on a spectacular Greek island
where the views are tremendous, the hospitality is delightful and the food is gastronomically
unmatched, Im sharingphotos from my walkabout this morning. These images are all within a 45
minute walk from my hotel. If youre thinking about a European vacation, please consider Lesbos. If
youre dreaming of a vacation somewhere sometime, please enjoy these photos and let them carry
you through your day as you take a vacation in your mind.
(https://leavingforlesvos.wordpress.com/2016/03/16/book-a-
vacation-to-molyvos/3-16-sea/)
(https://leavingforlesvos.wordpress.com/2016/03/16/book-a-vacation-to-
molyvos/3-16-moped/)
vacation-to-molyvos/3-16-turkish-coast/)
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(https://leavingforlesvos.wordpress.com/2016/03/16/book-a-vacation-to-molyvos/3-16-molyvosview/)
vacation-to-molyvos/3-16-castle-arabic/)
(https://leavingforlesvos.wordpress.com/2016/03/16/book-a-vacation-to-molyvos/3-16-lambingseason/)
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vacation-to-molyvos/3-16-hobbled-sheep/)
(https://leavingforlesvos.wordpress.com/2016/03/16/book-a-vacation-to-molyvos/3-16-red-gate/)
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(https://leavingforlesvos.wordpress.com/2016/03/16/book-a-vacation-to-molyvos/3-16-octopuslegs/)
(https://leavingforlesvos.wordpress.com/2016/03/16/book-a-vacation-to-molyvos/3-16-molyvosmarket/)
Clockwise from upper left: Eftalou beach; Molyvos side-street; Turkish coast vista; Molyvos castle
gate with Arabic inscription above; billy goat; octopus legs drying; Molyvos grocery; residential gate;
lambing season; view of Molyvos from the castle wall.
The sea is angry and I amsick

MARCH 15, 2016 ~ LEAVINGFORLESVOS ~ 3 COMMENTS
The sea is white with churning water and rough waves. Yesterday and last night the winds were the
strongest Ive seen here, and sounded like the building was blowing away. Balcony furniture was
blown away, ying through the air and shattering on the ground. I cant imagine anyone starting a
voyage across from Turkey in this weather, but at least one boat arrived early yesterday morning just
before we went to work at Moria. The refugees were soaked with water, but landed safely and made
it to the camp. That is the only boat I know of that came in yesterday. Considering the smugglers
send the boats off from the coast with no one to captain them, I cant imagine how this one
successfully arrived. I heard that the refugee who ended up at the helm dislocated his shoulder
during the passage. No surprise there.
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(https://leavingforlesvos.wordpress.com/2016/03/15/the-sea-is-angry-and-i-am-
sick/refugee-boat/)
(https://leavingforlesvos.wordpress.com/2016/03/15/the-sea-is-angry-and-
i-am-sick/refugee-boat2/)
Refugee boats recovered.
While the sea was churning, so were my insides as I got hit with food poisoning in the middle of the
day. It was not pretty (never is, I suppose), and I went straight to bed late in the afternoon only to
emerge from my room late this morning. While the wind whistled and roared, I tried to sleep it off
and was so thankful to have a warm, dry bed in which to suffer. Apparently Hepatitis A (a fecalborne disease) has been identied at Idomeni, and I just think about those poor people as
uncomfortable as I was, but without a dry, warm place to rest and recover. Awful.
Athens ferryevery refugees next goal.

Ive been trying to gure out something cheerful to write about as I have heard from a number of
people that my posts are depressing. These were not complaints, just reactions. And, I agree, they are
depressing. But, I just cant nd a way to put a positive spin on any of this. Yes, we volunteers are
giving it a noble effort to help and reach out and support and encourage. But really, lets be honest,
this situation is downright horrible and doesnt look be improving anytime soon, if at all. That is the
unfortunate reality, and one that I just cant sugar-coat no matter how I try. For a great overview of
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the situation, and a really engaging video, check out this video
(http://www.vanityfair.com/news/2016/03/european-migrant-crisis-refugees-in-lesbos#1). It
wont be uplifting, but none of it is.
Where does $5K getyou?

MARCH 12, 2016 ~ LEAVINGFORLESVOS ~ LEAVE A COMMENT
Meet Pervez. He is a soft-spoken 24-year-old English teacher with warm brown eyes from Lashkar
Gah. He has lived through nothing but conict in his countryconict that is an outgrowth of
foreign involvement in Afghani affairs over the past four decades. He has been traveling for about
two months. Lets see how he has spent his money: $2,000 to get from Afghanistan to Istanbul by car.
$misc to support himself in Turkey for three weeks while he looked for a smuggler and waited to
depart. $50 for a life jacket at a store in Turkey. $1,000 to get across the Aegean Sea to Lesvos in a boat
with 70 people. $65 for a ferry ticket from Mytilini to Athens. $35 for a train ticket from Athens to
Thessaloniki. $25 for a shared car from Thessaloniki to Idomeni. $misc to support himself in Greece
while he waits to cross the border. So far he has been waiting 11 days. Teachers in Afghanistan
(https://www.afghanistan-analysts.org/too-few-badly-paid-and-unmotivated-the-teacher-crisisand-the-quality-of-education-in-afghanistan-2/) make about $150/month; Pervez started his journey
with about three years salary in his pocket. Does he have enough to get back to Afghanistan if the
borders never open? While he sits on a cinderblock step in the Idomeni refugee camp, he wonders
what will happen. He is determined to wait it out because he wants to live somewhereanywhere
in Europe where he can work and learn and live. How long will he have to wait?
Meet Fadi. He is in his early thirties. He is from Hama, Syria, a primarily agricultural area of the
country famous for growing pistachios. Fadi is well-educated and worked for several years in the
Gulf as an administrator in a large corporation before returning to Syria to get married and start a
family. He is well-educated, wears glasses and looks like your next-door neighbor (if your neighbor is
professional, polite, well-spoken and dresses nicely). He ed Syria with his family because his baby
and young children could not sleep due to the constant bombing all around them. I met Fadi and his
family in Moria camp over a week ago. We met again in Idomeni yesterday where he was frustrated
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because the non-food-item distribution tent would only give him 10 diapers for his children. He had
walked 1.5 miles from his tent where the family is staying to get diapers and he got 10. He was told
that there are 10,000 people in need so his allocation was 10 diapers for his family. Like Pervez, Fadi
has spent so much money, time and hope getting this far, he is determined to see the journey through.
Unlike Pervez, Fadi is Syrian and so will still have preference if the borders only open to Syrians and
not others. For now, he and his family wait and live in tents outside a gas station where the Greek
owner was kind enough to tell him they could sleep inside if the rain gets bad. Lucky Fadi. (Soon
after we spoke someone brought his family two bags of diapers, wipes and a large carton of warm
blankets.)
Conditions in Idomeni were marginally better yesterday because it was sunny and the ground was
drying out along with everyones laundry.
But, the borders are still slammed shut, riot police are stationed at the rail line crossing in case anyone
gets a bright idea to try to climb the razor wire fence, and Macedonia is now planning to extend the
19 mile fence another 200 miles (http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3479372/Macedoniareveals-plans-build-200-mile-long-fence-border-Greece-protected-guards-armed-Tasers-ahead-EUsummit-deal-migrant-crisis.html).
Greek citizens I spoke with express dismay at the current situation. As individuals they are warm
and generous, putting families up in spare apartments, providing food to those who ask and carrying
water to thirsty refugees who trudge along in the sun. As a country, possibly the hardest hit by the
European economic crisis, Greece is at a real breaking point, and the rest of Europe is watching them
grow with refugees and shrink with possibility. Greeks are horried and embarrassed at what is
happening at Idomeni just like we are and feel as helpless as we do when we can only help one
diaper at a time.
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There, but for the grace of God, goI

MARCH 10, 2016 ~ LEAVINGFORLESVOS ~ LEAVE A COMMENT
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We started our morning with fresh sheep milk butter on warm bread and Greek coffeea moment of
grace to begin the day. That was denitely the high point. Everything after that felt desperate and
overwhelming.
Our goal for the day was to get a comprehensive perspective on what is happening at this northern
Greek border with Macedonia. Our regional director and medical coordinator are trying to decide
what, if anything, SCM can contribute to meeting the crisis here. We started by driving about 40
minutes south east toward Athens to Eko camp. This camp of about 400 sprang up as a result of
somewhat unrelated factors. Eko is the name of the fuel station on the highway to the border. It
happened to be the location where busses of refugees stopped and dumped their load. Initially, those
refugees hitched a ride or called a taxi or tried to nd another bus or walked the remaining 15 or so
kilometers. But, when the border was closed, and the Idomeni camp began bursting at the seams,
some refugees stayed at Eko until they thought they could cross over. Now, there are UNHCR tents,
periodic MSF and OTH medical units, and occasional targeted supply distributions like the one we
did this morning. We drove in with a car load of supplieswe chose Eko over Idomeni for this
distribution because we were warned we would get overrun at Idomeni. Wow, did we learn our
lesson. We were immediately swarmed by men, women, children askingand in some cases very
forcefullyfor anything we were handing out.
In the pouring rain and 45+degree weather, we handed out dry socks, knit hats, scarves and vests,
and hygiene kits. The crowd grew and swarmed and pressed in. Despite my commanding demands
to step back, we were soon overwhelmed and forced to move on. It was a real slap in the facecrowd
control is a science and we are not that kind of scientists.
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Our next stop was Idomeni itself. I think images speak louder than words in this case, so Ill include
several photos.
(https://leavingforlesvos.wordpress.com/2016/03/10/there-but-for-the-grace-of-god-goi/idomenicamp/)
(https://leavingforlesvos.wordpress.com/2016/03/10/there-but-for-
the-grace-of-god-go-i/idomenitrainstation/)
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(https://leavingforlesvos.wordpress.com/2016/03/10/there-but-for-
the-grace-of-god-go-i/trainstationidomeni/)
Everyone and everything was wet from the constant rain that had pounded all night. The medical
tents were lled with lines of people coughing and suffering. The portable toilets were lthy with
urine and feces simply because they were not numerous enough to meet the demand. The showers
are only cold water, so many are foregoing cleanliness in the face of possible hypothermia. Signs
warn parents to keep track of their childrenhuman trafcking is a very real danger.
(https://leavingforlesvos.wordpress.com/2016/03/10/there-but-
for-the-grace-of-god-go-i/childsafetyidomeni/)
(https://leavingforlesvos.wordpress.com/2016/03/10/there-but-for-the-grace-of-god-goi/watchyourchildren/)
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This feels so hopelesseven more so than the prison-turned-refugee-camp in Moria. At least at

Moria the people are warm and dry and sleeping in structures at night. They get three solid meals,
warm blankets, services, etc. And, they still have hope. Here, they get minimal food, minimal
medical care, and you see the photos of where they are sleeping.
In Moria I was able to make eye contact constantly and speak with people, greeting them in Arabic
and asking how they were. At Idomeni, almost no one looked at me and when they did, they seem
so much more sober, resigned, desperate. One family has been waiting in the camp for THREE
WEEKS. Can you imagine?
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I just keep remembering a phrase I learned as a kid: There but for the grace of God go I. We are so
lucky. I see the elderly people and imagine my mother and my father in their shoesliterally. No 80year-old deserves to be living like this. It is humiliating, terrifying and debilitating. They have lived
out their years in their home countries and are now here trapped in a soggy, cold, tenuous refugee
camp . One of the volunteers on our team has grandparents in Syria. Her grandfather wont ever
leave because he cant bear the thought of dying outside his homeland and not being buried with his
ancestors. He would sooner stay in Homs. I can now understand his perspective.
The border has been slammed shut and these people are caught on the wrong side of the door. It has
been happening incrementally since September.
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For a very good summary of EU actions, read this article

(http://www.theguardian.com/world/2016/mar/04/eu-refugee-crisis-number-of-asylum-seekersdoubled-to-12-million-in-2015). Who knows when/if it will open again? The refugees keep arriving
in Greece, the gates to the rest of Europe are ofcially closed. All camps are full. What next for these
families?
Surrounded by like-mindedpeople
FEBRUARY 28, 2016FEBRUARY 29, 2016 ~ LEAVINGFORLESVOS ~ 3 COMMENTS
After almost 24 hours of travel, Im settled in my home-away-from-home for the next three weeks.
SCM is so well-organized that the travel was smooth and trouble-free. I ew through Athens to
Mytilene, the airport at the south end of the island. There I was met by the mission manager, Jamal,
who happens to be the charming, efcient and competent nephew of Rita, the fearless leader of SCM.
I traveled part of the way with another Seattleite, Tawk, who is originally from Jordan. I am
surrounded by like-minded people all here with one goal: to help where needed and buoy up these
weary refugees as they pass through.
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It was a cheerful and energetic crowd in the SCM van traveling from the Mytilene airport to the
Molyvos hotelsix European young people several of whom are spending their gap year
volunteering here with Starsh (https://www.facebook.com/HelpForRefugeesInMolyvos/)which is
a wonderful organization helping and coordinating with SCM. The Starsh volunteers were
brimming with sugar-induced energy and cheerful friendliness until they all fell asleep in the van
like a pile of puppies who have been playing and working and going non-stop. I can tell Im going to
have a lot of fun with them when our paths cross. I could denitely see my daughters doing
something like what these admirable young volunteers are doing.
Today conditions on the island changedagainbecause the ferries transporting refugees from
Lesbos to Athens are closed to refugees for the next ten days. Athens has been deemed overcrowded
with refugees, so as they arrive, the refugees are stuck here on the island for at least a week and a half
unless something changes. This means that well be doing some work in the camps on the south end
of the island. Usually the camps are temporary and transitory, but this will keep people there longer
with a developing backup unless the policy changes before the 10 days are up.
It is denitely a bizarre contradiction of realitiesthis beautiful tourism paradise overlaid with the
ow of refugees passing through.
Here is what I saw as we drove into the beautiful town tonight:
Molyvos Castle
Tomorrow we will see more in the daylight, and on Monday I expect to be working in the camps
which will bring the harsh reality slamming down.
Almost there and where are therefugees?

FEBRUARY 24, 2016 ~ LEAVINGFORLESVOS ~ LEAVE A COMMENT
Conditions on Lesbos continue to change on a daily basis. While I have been passing my CPR test at
the local re department and learning to say bheb ishrab shuayet ahuey ou shuayet shai (I would
like to drink some coffee or some tea), NATO moved warships into the Aegean Sea to stem the ow
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(http://www.nytimes.com/2016/02/16/opinion/international/nato-and-europes-refugeecrisis.html?_r=0) of refugees crossing from Turkey to Greece.

NY Times Feb. 16, 2016: Concern for refugees safety was not, however, the reason Germany, Greece
and Turkey the three countries most affected by the crisis asked NATO for help. The main
concern is political: public dismay at the prospect that the tide of refugees shows no sign of abating.
Last week, Turkeys president, Recep Tayyip Erdogan, threatened to send millions of refugees on to
Europe. Turkey has already taken in three million people and is under pressure to take in more.
We can all certainly agree that Turkey has more than its share of problems. At the same time that it is
responding to pressure from the EU and is dealing with the mass of refugees on its border with Syria
(and distributed throughout the country), it is also facing increasing violence from entities (ISIS
and/or PKK) within its borders. The very recent bombing in Ankara was even more distressing than
the one back in November.
It sounds as if the presence of NATO ships, while ostensibly not there to turn back refugee boats, may
be severely reducing the number of boats setting out for Greece.
The other very interesting development this week was the continued tightening of Macedonias
borders. For anyone not up on Balkan geography, heres a visual of how the countries are laid out:
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Back in December Macedonia began this closure process by limiting who could pass
(http://www.aljazeera.com/news/2015/12/macedonia-border-closure-leaves-refugees-hope151205094648175.html):
Al Jazeera, Dec. 5, 2015: An estimated 3,000 asylum seekers remain stuck at the Idomeni border
crossing in Greece because of Macedonias refusal to allow entry for those who cannot prove Iraqi,
Syrian or Afghan citizenship.
Among those Macedonia has classied as economic migrants and barred from entry are Moroccans,
Tunisians, Iranians, Algerians, Yemenis, Eritreans, Pakistanis and Somalis.
Macedonian President Gjorgje Ivanov has said the move was designed to prevent tension between
Macedonians and those entering the country.
Ivanov said that any more than 2,000 refugees crossing through the country at any given moment
would cause permanent and direct threats and risks for national security.
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Now the Afghans are being prohibited from passing into Macedonia because the Serbian border is
closed to them. Macedonia does not want to get stuck with Afghans who cannot depart from inside
its borders.
As someone with strong ties to Albania, Ive been watching and waiting for the refugees to begin
using Albania as their pathway to Serbia and northern Europe. Like Macedonia, Albania shares a
long border with Greece, but unlike Macedonia, that border is almost exclusively mountainous.
Additionally, Albania itself is extremely poor and relatively lawless in some areas, both factors that I
assume have deterred the refugees until now. Will that change as more and more of the other borders
become impassable? An article (http://www.ozy.com/fast-forward/the-country-of-lastresort/66921)in Ozy, while sprinkled with journalistic generalizations, gives a good perspective on
how a border country is trying to prepare for and anticipate an inux of refugees.
My friends tell me to be safe and praise my bravery. I am not brave. The refugees who are traveling
for days, weeks, months trying to nd safety, they are the brave ones. I am inspired by others who are
taking it upon themselves to help the refugees passing before their front doors. Here is one suchstory
(https://www.facebook.com/aljazeera/videos/10153715497418690/)of a brilliant, big-hearted
young Macedonian woman. Watch it.
Knit Scarves vs.Bombs

FEBRUARY 7, 2016 ~ LEAVINGFORLESVOS ~ 1 COMMENT
Feb. 5 I think Russia and I were working at cross purposes today. While I was in the SCM ofce in
Seattle picking up suitcases of Anacin, hygiene kits, Mylar blankets and childrens hand toys, Russian
jets were carpet-bombing Aleppo (http://www.nytimes.com/2016/02/06/world/middleeast/syriaaleppo.html?hp&action=click&pgtype=Homepage&clickSource=story-heading&module=rstcolumn-region&region=top-news&WT.nav=top-news). Tens of thousands of NEW refugees are
amassing at the Syrian/Turkish border trying to escape the violence. Where will they go? I just want
to cry.
From todays NY Times: The United Nations said 20,000 people were stuck at the border fence
between Syria and Turkey, and aid groups said as many as 50,000 were expected. Turkish ofcials
have said they will allow refugees to cross, but it was not clear when they would open the
crossing or how many would be allowed through. A few people requiring urgent medical care are
being taken to Turkish hospitals.
The United Nations director of humanitarian operations, John Ging, told the Security Council on
Friday that the situation around Aleppo, and the closing of an important border crossing with
Turkey, could prevent food and medicine from reaching 325,000 people caught in the ghting,
according to two diplomats who attended the closed meeting.
In the meantime, I continue with my Arabic and my CPR and my plans.
Heres what Ill be carrying in checked baggage:
18 adult and 18 child hygiene kits
Warmth hand made by Rachel and Barb
2 boxes of KIND bars

Hand-knitted items: 2 vests, 6 hats, 11 scarves, 4 neck
gaiters
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8 warming blankets
40 Mylar rescue blankets
100 pair hand/toe warmers
26 pair socks
3 eece jackets
200 individual doses Anacin
21 hand-size toys
(https://leavingforlesvos.wordpress.com/2016/02/07/knit-scarves-vs-bombs/2016-02-07-11-06-53/)
I will also carry a letter from SCM as well as letters from Governor Inslee and Senator McDermott
asserting that I am a legitimate humanitarian worker carrying badly needed supplies. Apparently the
airline employee at the check-in desk has the authority to decide whether or not to charge me for
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checking two bagsit all depends on whom I get on that morning at the AirFrance desk. Im
optimistic I will sail throughwhy not be optimistic in the face of uncertainty? That is what the
refugees are doing on a daily basis, no?
Migrant Crisis by theNumbers

FEBRUARY 5, 2016FEBRUARY 5, 2016 ~ LEAVINGFORLESVOS ~ LEAVE A COMMENT
Feb. 4 From the New York Times today (Your Thursday Brieng online): One day after thepeace
talks in Geneva broke down (http://www.nytimes.com/2016/02/04/world/middleeast/syriapeace-talks-geneva-de-mistura.html), world leaders today are seeking $9 billion to help Syrians
inside and outside the country suffering as a result of the civil war, now entering its sixth year. By
comparison, $50 billion was spent on the Sochi Olympics. And Germanys cabinet hastoughened
asylum rules (http://www.nytimes.com/2016/02/04/world/europe/german-cabinet-approvesmeasures-tightening-asylum-rules.html). We measure thestaggering toll of Europes migrant crisis in
lives and dollars (http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2016/02/04/world/europe/migrant-crisisby-the-numbers.html)
The number of migrants crossing the Mediterranean seems to ebb and ow day by day, week by
week and month by month. It is not surprising that the number in December/January is the smallest
since the upsurge began last spring. The cost to cross is also lower in the winter months; smugglers
gouge desperate migrants as much as they can depending on demand. It is, like everything else at
base, an economic system based on supply and demand. But unlike some other economic systems,
this one is truly a life-or-death situation.
The United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR), which is the international body in
charge of refugee issues across and between nation states, puts out numerous data resources
(http://data.unhcr.org/mediterranean/country.php?id=83/greece/)including a daily bulletin
tracking the movement of migrants generally and specic numbers for Lesbos. For example,
yesterdays bulletinshowed the following:
Total arrivals in Lesvos (01 Jan 2015-03 Feb 2016): 540,348
Total arrivals in Lesvos during Feb 2016: 4,155
Average daily arrivals during Feb 2016: 1,385
Average daily arrivals during Jan 2016: 1,167
Estimated residual population staying on the island: 1,984
Estimated departures to Mainland: 2,572
We expect the Lesbos numbers to creep back up as the weather improves, but migration is affected by
border closures as well as climate issues. And, not surprising, in todays world there is an app used
by the migrants (http://www.wired.com/2015/12/smartphone-syrian-refugee-crisis/) updated in
real time to help those at each step along the way nd the safest and most open route possible.
Learning to Save a Life and to Talk Aboutit

FEBRUARY 5, 2016 ~ LEAVINGFORLESVOS ~ LEAVE A COMMENT
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Feb. 3 Today I nished my Basic Life Support for Providers course online. I am actually kicking
myself for not taking it years ago. Somehow after having babies, the need to be CPR-certied seemed
less imperative. Im so glad that this mission has given me the opportunity to become skilled again in
case I need to save someone from choking, heart attack or breathing difculties. My rst aid course is
next week at the local re department, and my nal exam will be just before I departalso at the
local re department. I cant imagine the portions on using an AED nor the mouth-to-mouth that is
really mask-to-mouth will apply on Lesbos, but perhaps there will be more equipment available than
I anticipate.
I also continued with my Arabic lessons today, both audio and in person. My lovely neighbors Nahed
and little Nora are innitely patient as I bumble my way through the most basic of phrases and
concepts. I have denitely mastered I do not understand Arabic (Mabaraf Arabi) How are you?
(Kifak?) and Good morning (Sabah al khir) (the response (Sabah al noor) to the latter directly
translates to Good light to youso lovely!). But today I wrestled with would like as in You
would like to eat something (Bithibi takli shi). I have learned that Arabic is based on many sounds
where consonants seem to be butted up against one another as in bithebti and even more troubling
is the fact that Ive now discovered what sounds like four different h sounds, one of which is
essentially a growl and another which sounds like Im trying to remove something solid from my
throat. Nahed just chuckles and encourages me as I try to create guttural sounds that are actually part
of the language. As my mother says, onward and upward!
Hot Soup Because Baheb akol shi (I would like to

eatsomething).
Feb. 2 Tonight I made Avgolemono Soup
(http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/avgolemono-352269). It is one of our favorites,
and just happens to be Greek. As I was carefully incorporating the eggs and lemon juice into the hot
broth, I anticipated the Greek food I will be able to enjoy at the end of long days in Molyvos. Unlike
the others arriving there from across the sea, I will have a warm bed to sleep in and the funds to eat
hot meals at local cafes. And, as I watched the swirling soup, trying to keep the beaten eggs smooth
as they joined the lamb broth, I couldnt help but think about the foreign refugees streaming onto the
Greek roadways and from there to the ferries as they move northward trying to integrate into the
larger masses of European citizens.
My imagination runs wild as I consider what I have seen in photos and videos about conditions on
Lesbos where locals try to continue some semblance of a normal life while having such an inux of
foreigners arriving daily. The best overview I have seen to date was put out by the Washington Post
and is called The Waypoint (https://www.washingtonpost.com/graphics/world/lesbos/). Note
the scene with the staff/volunteer burning trash in the Moria camp on Southern Lesbos; when I
voiced nervousness about being able to handle my upcoming duties as a volunteer, Sam kindly
pointed out the fact that I am an expert at managing burn piles so I will certainly be able to help out
in that department.
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Keeping Warm andDry

Jan. 28 Im worried about being cold. Of course, when we hear Greek beach, we all think of a sundrenched island paradise. Me, too. But, the beach on Lesvos in February/March is not sun-drenched,
and Im told to expect rain and cold. January even saw some snow at the beach. Yeesh! So, going on
the advice of a recent mission returnee, Im thinking Seattle winter hiking gear which means layers
and rain barriers and more layers. Im already set for under-layers, but Im going to have to purchase
waterproof gloves, waterproof pants, and maybe even a new rain jacket as mine is intermittently
effective. If I buy all that, well be guaranteed to have 21 unbroken days of sunshine. Good plan. SCM
advised bringing waders, and I had lined up a loaner pair, but my returnee information source said
that my insulated muck boots would likely be ne and that we really are not supposed to be the ones
pulling people out of deep water. That duty goes to another NGO (non-governmental organization).
It sounds as if it is all very well organized and duties pretty clearly assigned. There is even a group
that launders all the left-behind clothes and readies them for the next wave of migrants to change
into when they arrive wet and cold; this volunteer group is aptly named Dirty Girls
(http://www.hufngtonpost.com/entry/refugees-clean-laundrylesbos_us_56785f43e4b014efe0d65292).
None of this speaks to staying warm while I sleep though, and Ive heard from multiple sources that
the hotel in Molyvos while quite comfortable and safe and convenient is also rather cold. So, Ive
purchased an old-fashioned hot-water bottle to schlepp along so Ill have a warm companion at
night. And, again, layers, layers, layers.
BLOG AT WORDPRESS.COM.
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Leaving For Lesvos - One Woman's Mission To Help The Refugees

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26/11/2016

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

The EU and Turkey signed an historic agreement

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

The world is watching. Or isit?

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Entrance gate at front of Moria Camp.

Grafti on barricade wall.

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Attendees to the Cairo Conference 1921. Courtesy of Clio Visualizing History.

Book a vacation toMolyvos!

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

The sea is angry and I amsick

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Athens ferryevery refugees next goal.

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Where does $5K getyou?

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

There, but for the grace of God, goI

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

This feels so hopelesseven more so than the prison-turned-refugee-camp in Moria. At least at

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

For a very good summary of EU actions, read this article

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Almost there and where are therefugees?

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

(http://www.nytimes.com/2016/02/16/opinion/international/nato-and-europes-refugeecrisis.html?_r=0) of refugees crossing from Turkey to Greece.

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Knit Scarves vs.Bombs

Warmth hand made by Rachel and Barb

2 boxes of KIND bars

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Migrant Crisis by theNumbers

Learning to Save a Life and to Talk Aboutit

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Hot Soup Because Baheb akol shi (I would like to

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Keeping Warm andDry

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees

Leaving for Lesvos | One Woman's Mission to Help the Refugees