Project Title: Virtual Training Centre for Shoe Design

Project No: 134124-LLP-1-2007-1-RO-LEONARDO-LMP

Agreement No.: 2007-3111/001-001 LE3-MULPRO

Virtual Training Centre for

Shoe Design

Common Curriculum

This project has been funded

with support from the European
Commission.

This publication reflects the views only of the author, and the Commission cannot be held responsible for any
use which may be made of the information contained therein.
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 CONTENT
Virtual Training Centre for Shoe Design as a Model 5

Development of Competence Based Curriculum 6

Part I Foot 8

Lesson 1.1. Knowledge on Foot Anatomy Applied to Footwear Design and 8

Pattern Making

Lesson 1.2. Knowledge on Foot Biomechanics Applied to Footwear Design and 8

Pattern Making

Part II- Footwear 10

Lesson 2.1. Materials Used for Footwear Products 10

Lesson 2.2. Footwear: Structure and Functions 12

Lesson 2.3. Lasts for Footwear Industry 14

Lesson 2.4. Footwear Technology 16

Lesson 2.5. Technological Allowances for Pattern Making 17

Part III- Measurements and Tools 19

Lesson 3.1. Measuring the Foot - Foot Anthropometrics 19

Lesson 3.2. Measurement Systems 21

3
Lesson 3.3. Tools for Pattern Making 22

Part IV- Design and Pattern Making 24

Lesson 4.1. Principles and Elements of Design Applied to Footwear 24

Lesson 4.2. Basic Stages in Producing Footwear Patterns From 3D Design 26

Lesson 4.3. Producing Standard Forme of the Last 28

Lesson 4.4. Producing Design Standard (Master Pattern) 30

Lesson 4.5. Pattern Making for Womens Court Shoe 32

Lesson 4.6. Pattern Making for Mens Casual Shoe (Oxford, Derby) 34

Lesson 4.7. Pattern Making for Childrens Shoe 38

Lesson 4.8. Pattern Making for Loafers 42

Lesson 4.9. Pattern Making for Trainer/ Sport Shoe 44

Lesson 4.10. Pattern Making for Womens Sandals 46

Lesson 4.11. Pattern Making for Childrens Boots 48

Lesson 4.12. Pattern Making for Women High Boots 50

Lesson 4.13. Producing Lining Patterns 52

Lesson 4.14. Elements for Designing Bottom Components 54

4
VIRTUAL TRAINING CENTRE FOR SHOE DESIGN AS A
MODEL

The rapidly changing technologies, as well as the innovative e-learning teaching methods
require for adapted modules for lifelong training that keeps continuously up to date with
the relevant developments of the European footwear industry. The Virtual Training
Centre for Shoe Design is an interactive platform, a meeting point for policy-makers,
social-partners, practitioners, researchers and all those with an interest in footwear
design field of vocational education and training. Experts in the field can share and
exchange knowledge and experience with associates within and outside the European
Union.

The projects scientific and pedagogic objectives are in tune with the main priority in
Lifelong Learning Programme. Through the various research and development projects,
partners have developed training materials for footwear design. These materials have to
be compared between involved partners in order to get common curricula to be share
with future users at a European level. The innovative e-content, developed within the
VTC-Shoe project, can easily be translated to various languages.

5
DEVELOPMENT OF COMPETENCE BASED CURRICULUM

Recognizing competencies and skills needed in footwear industry and anticipating their
development stand for a complex mission given several socio-economical factors, which
must be taken into consideration. The stakeholders (VET schools, universities,
employers, professional associations etc.) have to monitor this identification taking place
at various levels: 1) deciding the overall competences development plan necessary for a
successful business strategy, action that should be taken at the highest managerial
level; 2) defining the new competence needs through involvement of employers and
employees; 3) elaborating specific competences development plan; 4) developing
learning environment.

The VTC-Shoe project attempted to design the competency-curriculum for VET under the
area of a Virtual Training Centre. The study research was conducted in order to identify
and explore the usefulness of the questionnaire tool in finding a suitable presentation
form for a competence-based curriculum. The sampling method based on convenience
and targeted colleagues, former students, business contacts from the footwear industry
and their acquaintances, from Romania, Greece and Turkey. The questionnaire was
developed based on planned curricula structure and on preliminary interviews with some
experts from footwear industry and potential trainers and trainees. After its development
with the partners in the project, it was applied on VTC-Shoe content development, and
modified accordingly with the feedback obtained from piloting courses.

6
The curriculum and the content developed based on this curriculum stand on four parts.
The first part is about Foot. The second part is dedicated to Footwear. The third part
deals with Measurements and Tools. The last part is about Design and Pattern Making.

7
 PART I FOOT
LESSON 1.1. KNOWLEDGE ON FOOT ANATOMY APPLIED
TO FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND PATTERN MAKING
UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This unit aims to identify and describe the main structure and functions of the foot in
order to apply this knowledge to designing the footwear.
TOPICS

Identifying foot structure and its functions

Identifying problems related to footwear
CONTENT

1. Describe the structure and functions of the foot

2. The main foot structures: muscles, bones, joints, nervous system
3. Foot problems related to footwear. Structural and functional disorders of the
foot.

LESSON 1.2. KNOWLEDGE ON FOOT BIOMECHANICS

APPLIED TO FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND PATTERN MAKING

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This unit aims to identify biomechanics parameters and to offer knowledge about gait
analysis computer techniques

8
TOPICS

Managing and collecting measurements of foot biomechanics parameters with

computer techniques
Gait analysis is performed to obtain baseline data of consumers walk pattern
CONTENT

1. Foot biomechanics
2. Gait analysis

9
 PART II- FOOTWEAR

LESSON 2.1. MATERIALS USED FOR FOOTWEAR

PRODUCTS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This unit aims to identify and describe the entire range of materials used in shoe
production both for upper and for bottom components (leather, textile, substitutes,
rubber, synthetics, non-woven etc.).

TOPICS

Identifying materials uses within footwear industry

Recognizing characteristics of materials
Determining performance of materials
Identifying common faults, problems and surface defects of materials
Selecting and testing the materials accordingly with the purpose of the product

CONTENT

1. Identifying/ Classifying footwear materials

2. Performances of materials for footwear
- Physical properties
- Mechanical properties
- Chemical properties
- Technological and usability characteristics of materials
3. List of international standards ( ISO) for footwear industry

10
11
LESSON 2.2. FOOTWEAR: STRUCTURE AND FUNCTIONS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This unit presents various types of footwear considering their structure. The footwear
components, both for uppers and bottoms, are presented in relations with their role for
structuring and achieving the function of the entire footwear product.

TOPICS

Standard footwear types

Presenting the components of footwear: uppers (vamp, toe, quarter, counter,
tongue, apron, tab, strips, linings, stiffener, toe puff) and bottom (insole, rigid
insole backer, shank, bottom filling, insole cover, welt, middle sole, sole, heel)
Identifying footwear components both for upper and for bottom, their role and
recommended materials
Recognizing the functions that footwear has to fulfil during its use

CONTENT

1. Footwear components: uppers and bottoms

2. Constructive types
3. Description of the main features and functions of footwear
3.1. Types of footwear (fashion, casual, sport)
3.2. Footwear features (uppers, soles, heels, lining, laces and buckles, etc.)
3.3. Features of footwear related to foot function and structure (size, shape).

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LESSON 2.3. LASTS FOR FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

Transferring the foot size and its general shape into definitive lasts includes variables
such as nature and extent of functional demands, foot characteristics, styles and
characteristics of the materials. This unit covers the theoretical knowledge regarding
various types of lasts used in footwear industry, as well as the selection criteria of a last
according to footwear design requirements.

TOPICS

Transforming the foot measurements into the last shape and dimensions
Identifying various types of lasts and their build-up components
Measuring and controlling the last
Selecting an appropriate existing or commercial last which closely matches the
required foot shape and size

CONTENT

1. Lasts for footwear industry

2. Classifying the lasts
3. Dimensional characterization of the last
4. Verifying the shape and the size using control patterns
5. Verifying the quality requirements
6. Selecting the last

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LESSON 2.4. FOOTWEAR TECHNOLOGY
UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This unit presents the entire manufacturing process, from pattern cutting through
closing, lasting, soling and finishing.

TOPICS

Identifying the manufacturing process, from pattern cutting through closing,

lasting, soling and finishing.

CONTENT

1. Cutting
2. Sewing
3. Lasting
4. Soling
5. Finishing

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LESSON 2.5. TECHNOLOGICAL ALLOWANCES FOR
PATTERN MAKING

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

There are three main types of allowances for the sectional patterns: lasting allowance,
seam allowance and edge allowance The unit presents basics information for establishing
these allowances according to the footwear manufacturing technology. Various design
effects need special allowances and these can be estimated considering the treatments
and materials involved.

TOPICS

Presenting and setting up the allowances for different edge treatments (folded
edge, binding edge, laced edge, special effects etc.);
Presenting and setting up the allowances for different type of seams
Presenting and setting up the lasting allowances accordingly with lasting
technology

CONTENT

1. Basics for uppers preparation due with the edge treatment

2. Basics of uppers closing by sewing
3. Basics for shoe lasting technology

17
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 PART III- MEASUREMENTS AND TOOLS

LESSON 3.1. MEASURING THE FOOT - FOOT

ANTHROPOMETRICS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This unit defines and presents the anthropometrical parameters within the foot and leg.
Foot measurements may be undertaken by using basic measuring devices such as ruler
and measuring tape (manual techniques) or special equipments such as 3D scanners
(computer techniques).

TOPICS
Marking the anatomical points on foot and leg
Measuring the foot and defining anthropometrical parameters
Managing and collecting measurements of foot parameters with computer
techniques
Assigning the relation between main dimensions of the foot (length and girth) and
shoes size

CONTENT
1. Anatomical points of the foot with an active role in biomechanics.
2. Anthropometrical parameters of the foot: length, width, girth, height, and angles
3. Variability of the foot dimensions and shape during standing and walking
4. Practice of measuring the foot and leg
4.1 Manual procedure for measuring the foot/leg
4.2 Computer technique for measuring the foot/leg

19
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LESSON 3.2. MEASUREMENT SYSTEMS
UNIT DESCRIPTOR

To present various measurement systems by connecting foot and last measurements

with footwear sizing.

TOPICS

Describing foot, last and footwear measurement sizing

Interpreting design brief
Analysing and assessing sizing for footwear design
Adapting the measurements of foot to shoe design requirements

CONTENT

1. Measurements of the foot transposed into measurements of the last

2. Footwear sizing
2.1. French (Continental) Measurement System
2.2. English Measurement System
2.3. American Measurement System
2.4. Mondopoint System
2.5. Sizing charts and transformation relation between various measurement
systems. Measurement and comparison tables
3. The effect of poor-fitting or poorly made shoes
4- Shoe Size Conversion Tables
- Adults (Men and Women) Shoe Size Conversion Table
- Girls Shoe Sizes
- Boys Shoe Sizes
- BATA Comparative Chart Table

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LESSON 3.3. TOOLS FOR PATTERN MAKING
UNIT DESCRIPTOR

In order to obtain good patterns it is necessary to know and select the essentials tools.
This unit demonstrates which these tools are and how they are used for.

TOPICS
Presenting the tools for pattern making

CONTENT

B type various pencils

Cutting knife
Measuring tape
School rubber
Metal ruler
Compass
Protractor
Copying wheel
Scissors
Revolving punch plier

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 PART IV- DESIGN AND PATTERN MAKING

LESSON 4.1. PRINCIPLES AND ELEMENTS OF DESIGN

APPLIED TO FOOTWEAR

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

In order to create a good product design, knowledge about the theory of elements and
principles of design is required. The unit demonstrates how elements of design
integrated into principles of designs could be used within the footwear product concept.

TOPICS

Elements of design applied to footwear

Principles of design applied to footwear
Examples, presentations and recommendations

CONTENT

1. Introduction
2. Elements of product design: line, shape, form and colour
3. Principles of product design: repetition, pattern, gradation, rhythm, radiation,
harmony, contrast, dominance, proportion, balance, and unity
4. Examples of brand designs

24
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LESSON 4.2. BASIC STAGES IN PRODUCING FOOTWEAR
PATTERNS FROM 3D DESIGN
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
This unit aims present the essentials of footwear pattern making in accordance with the
design specification and manufacturing requirements. The student will be introduced with
the VTC Shoe pattern making method. This method requires for 3D design to be created
first directly on the last and then accurately transferred into a 2D standard design, and
finally being transformed into working patterns.

TOPICS
Defining design lines and features on 3D last
Translating designs from 3D to 2D standard forme
Drawing patterns to outfit required specifications of the footwear
Modifying and adjusting patterns

CONTENT
1. VTC Shoe pattern making method
2. Stages in producing footwear patterns
2.1. Completing design specification and selecting the last
2.2. Producing the mean forme
2.3. Drawing the standard design grid
2.4. Drawing the 3D model directly on the last
2.5. Transferring design lines from 3D shell to 2D standard forme
2.6. Obtaining the 2D standard design of the model ( Master
Pattern)
2.7. Producing and modifying working patterns
3. Producing footwear patterns for boots and high boots

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LESSON 4.3. PRODUCING STANDARD FORME OF THE
LAST
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
The mean forme is the most important pattern in footwear design. If it is not accurate,
all the patterns will reproduce the errors within the original mean forme. The unit
presents several accurate methods of producing mean forme.

TOPICS
Identifying the forme-making methods: paper slotted forme, paper taped forme;
Transposing the main anatomical points and lines on the last accordingly with
their position on foot
Obtaining outside and inside forme by flattening the surface of the last

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CONTENT
1. Introduction
2. Forme-making methods
2.1. Forme-making using paper slotted method;
2.2. Forme-making using paper tape method;
3. Flattening inside and outside formes and making adjustments in order to get the
mean forme.

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LESSON 4.4. PRODUCING DESIGN STANDARD (MASTER
PATTERN)

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

The standard design gives a master pattern that represents the shape and the basic lines
of the footwear model, and they are transposed into a 2D drawing.

It is very important that the design standard should have position points, and the basic
lines should be clearly marked.

These points and basic lines are linked with the anatomy and biomechanics of the foot,
and have to be in view during all the stages of designing and pattern making process.

TOPICS

Producing design standard in reference to foot anatomy, last construction/

characteristics and footwear style.

CONTENT

1. The link between foot anatomy and basic construction lines.

2. Auxiliary constructions lines
3. The link between construction lines and footwear patterns.

30
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LESSON 4.5. PATTERN MAKING FOR WOMENS COURT
SHOE
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
The classic court shoe is the most common model of womens footwear. In order to get
an accurate pattern for this type of shoe fitting correctly on the last, basic principles of
pattern making are to be known as well as the necessary adjustments.
TOPICS
Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for court shoe
Drawing the outline for vamp, toe cap, quarter, counter
Obtaining design standards for court shoe
Making and modifying the working patterns
Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets,
working progress files

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CONTENT

1. Preparatory stage for pattern making

1.1. Selecting the last to meet the design specification
1.2. Designing requirements regarding the shape and specific outlines of the
patterns
2. 3D modelling of the court shoe
3. Producing design standards (master pattern) and sectional patterns

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LESSON 4.6. PATTERN MAKING FOR MENS CASUAL SHOE
(OXFORD, DERBY)
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
Designing and producing patterns for classical types of mens shoes, as Oxford and
Derby models, are presented in this unit. The Oxford style is characterized by the fact
that the vamp section is laid over the quarter sections. The Derby shoe is a lace-up style
in which the quarters are laid on the vamp section.

TOPICS
Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for Oxford/Derby shoe
Drawing the outline for vamp, cap, quarter, tongue, back straps
Obtaining design standard for Mens Oxford shoe
Obtaining design standard for Mens Derby shoe
Making and modifying the working patterns
Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets,
working progress files

CONTENT
1. Preparatory stage for pattern making
1.1. Selecting the last to meet the design specification
1.2. Design requirements regarding the shape and specific outlines of the
patterns
2. 3D modelling of the Mens shoe
2.1. Oxford shoe
2.2. Derby shoe
3. Producing design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns
3.1. Design standard and sectional patterns for the Oxford shoe
3.2. Design standard and sectional patterns for the Derby shoe

34
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LESSON 4.7. PATTERN MAKING FOR CHILDRENS SHOE
UNIT DESCRIPTOR

It is to be noted that childrens shoe is not a small size of an adult shoe.

Special features are required for this category of shoes due to different conditions and
features that childrens feet have to perform.

TOPICS

Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for childrens shoe

Drawing the outline for vamp, cap, quarter, tongue, back straps
Obtaining design standard for childrens shoe
Making and modifying the working patterns
Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets,
working progress files

CONTENT

1. Preparatory stage for pattern making

1.1. Differences in pattern making between children and adults shoes
1.2. Identifying the design requirements regarding the shape or specific outlines
of the patterns
2. 3D modelling of the childrens shoe
3. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns

38
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LESSON 4.8. PATTERN MAKING FOR LOAFERS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

A low step-in shoe is called Loafer and it is characterized by the fact that no laces or
other systems for setting up on foot are used. Designing this type of shoe requires
special attention to the topline of the uppers that has to be according to the usability of
the footwear. Elastic tape could be used and the patterns for uppers have to be designed
taking the presence of this functional element into consideration.

TOPICS

Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for boots

Drawing the outline of sectional patterns
Obtaining design standard for boots
Making and modifying the working patterns
Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets,
working progress files

CONTENT

1. Preparatory stage for pattern making

1.1. Selecting the last to meet to meet the design specification
1.2. Identifying design requirements regarding to shape or to specific outlines of
the patterns
2. 3D modelling of the Loafers
3. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns

42
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LESSON 4.9. PATTERN MAKING FOR TRAINER/ SPORT
SHOE

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

The constructive characteristics of this type of leisure/sport footwear lie in the uppers
style as being the same for men, women and children. The uppers can be made from
different types or combination of materials. They could have following patterns: split toe
cap, outside counter, back tab facing, front facing and side flash (side stripe).

TOPICS

Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for trainer/sport shoe

Drawing the outline of sectional patterns
Obtaining design standard for trainer/sport shoe
Making and modifying the working patterns
Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets,
working progress files

CONTENT

1. Preparatory stage for pattern making

1.1. Selecting the last to meet the design specification
1.2. Identifying the design requirements regarding shape or specific outlines of
the patterns
2. 3D modelling of the trainer/sport shoe
3. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns
44
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LESSON 4.10. PATTERN MAKING FOR WOMENS
SANDALS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

The most common method for sandals pattern making is by drawing the design lines
and the sectional patterns directly on last. The 3D model is translated into the 2D
standard forme and the working patterns are obtained.

TOPICS

Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for sandals

Drawing the outline of sectional patterns
Obtaining design standard for sandals
Making and modifying the working patterns
Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets,
working progress files

CONTENT

1. Preparatory stage for pattern making

1.1. Identifying design requirements regarding shape and
dimensions
2. 3D Modelling of the womens sandals
3. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns

46
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LESSON 4.11. PATTERN MAKING FOR CHILDRENS
BOOTS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This type of footwear should be produced on a last specially designed for a boot. For
designing boots or high boots, we will use the mean forme of the last registered in the
reference system. A standard design (master pattern) is constructed based on the same
principles as described in lesson 4.4. The pattern making for boots is based both on the
mean forme and on a geometrical construction, where some specific dimensions about
heights and girths measured on leg should be taken from sizing tables.

TOPICS

Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for boots

Drawing the outline of sectional patterns
Obtaining design standard for boots
Making and modifying the working patterns
Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets,
working progress files

CONTENT

1. Preparatory stage for pattern making

1.1. Differences in pattern making of shoes and boots
1.2. Identifying design requirements regarding shape and dimensions
2. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns
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LESSON 4.12. PATTERN MAKING FOR WOMEN HIGH
BOOTS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This type of footwear should be produced on a last specially designed for a high boot.
For designing high boots, we will use the mean forme of the last registered in the
reference system. The pattern making for high boots is based both on the mean forme
and on a geometrical construction, where some specific dimensions about heights and
girths measured on leg should be taken from sizing tables.

TOPICS

Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for high boots

Drawing the outline of sectional patterns
Obtaining design standard for high boots
Making and modifying the working patterns
Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets,
working progress files

CONTENT

1. Preparatory stage for pattern making

1.1. Differences in pattern making between shoes and high boots
1.2. Identifying design requirements regarding shape and dimensions

2. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns

50
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LESSON 4.13. PRODUCING LINING PATTERNS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

This unit presents different ways of making patterns of lining for classic types of
footwear (Court shoe, Derby shoe, Oxford shoe). At the base of lining pattern making
lies the uppers standard design having only the lasting allowance, without folding or
sewing allowances. There are two types: joined linings by seam and free linings. Also,
the linings could be from leather or from fabrics.

TOPICS

Presenting the role of lining

Producing lining patterns for Court shoe, and for Derby/ Oxford shoe

CONTENT

1. What is the role of lining?

2. Lining pattern making for mens Derby/ Oxford shoe

3. Lining pattern making for womens Court shoe

52
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LESSON 4.14. ELEMENTS FOR DESIGNING BOTTOM
COMPONENTS

UNIT DESCRIPTOR

The basic construction grid for designing bottom components is presented in this unit.
Practical exercises demonstrate the principles for designing main components of the
bottom.

TOPICS

How to construct a grid for designing bottom components

Designing bottom components: insole, rigid insole backer, shank, bottom filling,
insole cover, sole.

CONTENT

1. Basic construction grid for designing bottom components

2. Insole
3. Rigid insole backer
4. Shank
5. Bottom filling
6. Insole cover
7. Sole

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