Embracing Jakarta Fashion Week 18.07.

2017

By Cynthia Darman

Jakarta Fashion Week (JFW) was planted in 2008, and ever since then, its branches of beauty
and creativity have never stopped blooming. Like other Fashion Weeks sparking wonder and
excitement around the globe, Jakartas catwalks have been flaunting the artistic potential of up
and coming designers with collections that wildly stir the nations hearts. High expectations are
inevitable, especially when theyre projected upon the second largest city in the whole of Asia
(by population).1 Despite this, growth and prestige evidently lacks, and it is vastly incomparable
to the main Fashion Weeks, which all take place in the west. Although Fashion Weeks in Asia,
such as Seoul Fashion Week, Tokyo Fashion Week, and Hong Kong Fashion Week, have made
it to the Vogues of the west, captivating the attention of western fashion writers, why does
Jakarta miss out?

Primarily, I must clarify that I have never attended Jakarta Fashion Week. I am writing as an
observer and a patriot, hoping that one day my city makes it to the fashion spotlight that it
deserves. The first thing I noticed about JFWs online presence is that designers have a fist-tight
grip on traditional prints, silhouettes and colours, especially that of Batik. Batik is the nations
symbol of cultural pride; we wear it to distinguish ourselves from other countries, and when
worn for local occasions, a sign of respect for each other. This is something that is only mildly
demonstrated in other fashion weeks - a fierce love for heritage that preserves our identity and
unites the nation. Jakarta is a hub of a diverse array of individuals; there is no one physical
specification defined under a Jakartan (I myself have been mistaken for many things not
Jakartan). As a fabric, Batik is versatile, it can be subtly or fervently incorporated into garments
an indefinite number of ways, and therefore Indonesian outfits can be reinvented to appeal to
anyone. The question remaining is: so why are western-based high street stores selling kimonos,
but not Batik? Why do people upset Indians by appropriating the bindi, when Indonesians would
endlessly encourage them to wear Batik whenever? The reason lies by the countrys lacking
reputation and a missed opportunity to merge Indonesian and western design for commercial
benefit.

Westernising Indonesia without diluting its cultural essence is a fine line that Jakarta Fashion
Week must evaluate. One strategic factor they could consider is implementing a specific
aesthetic like the Japanese and Koreans have achieved. The Japanese-aesthetic or the
Korean-aesthetic have become viral trends in the west, it is heavily sought out by millennials
due to the rise of recognition of its pastel simplicity (Korean) and unapologetic cuteness or sleek

1
Illsley, C. (2017). Largest Cities In Asia. [online] World Atlas. Available at:
http://www.worldatlas.com/articles/the-largest-cities-in-asia.html [Accessed 18 Jul. 2017].
minimalism (Japanese) that creates a stark contrast to western trends. Without turning a blind eye
to the fact that there is problematic baggage tied to this trend (fetishisation, infantilization, under-
aged cosmetic surgery), it is undeniable that these two countries have penetrated the western-
sphere in a rapid influx. From music, to make-up, language, to lifestyle, retail stores in the US
and the UK have been stocking up in imported products. Barack Obama himself2 has mentioned
an increasing number of Americans putting in the effort to learn Korean to understand their
favourite K-Pop bands - and we are all familiar with the dedication that comes with being a fan.
Its hard to imagine a world where internationally, people scour the internet to find study
materials to learn Bahasa Indonesia, even though it is technically an easier language to learn for
English speakers. Jakarta, or Indonesia for that matter, is a long way away from competing with
the booming sensation of Korean and Japanese pop culture. That, however, doesnt mean Jakarta
has nothing to offer.

Perhaps another reason why Indonesian fashion seems so alien and incompatible with the west is
our commitment to modesty. Indonesia is majorly Muslim, which means Modest Wear is one of
the four categories that JFW prioritizes, and the hijab being a ubiquitous fashion feature. The
exponential rise of radical Islam and brutal xenophobia in the west unknowingly rejects
Indonesian input and paints our country negatively in the eyes of the ignorant and privileged
before we can actually prove our worth. Last year, however, the British Council have provided
the opportunity for Indonesian designers to showcase a hijab-wearing line in London Fashion
Week - the very first time Muslim attire was showcased in London3. A combining of east and
west is also perceived by the retail store Monki, that have a style that is both Scandinavian and
Japanese inspired. An overlapping in fashion values is truly a celebration, thus Monki is a street
favourite among the young and eclectic. The wide printed culottes, rectangular silhouettes and
chunky footwear is often seen among the peacocks of Fashion Weeks on both sides of the
globe, a strong statement of playfulness and je ne sais quoi on the streets. A fusion of styles in a
single retail store could also be a tangible project for next-generation progress in micro-
urbanisation. According to Brent Luvaas of Urban Fieldnotes, the British Council have made a
similar intervention in pairing their designers and Indonesian designers to produce a single
fashion line.4 This is an achievement for Indonesian designers, as it provides further exposure
and increased opportunities for buyers, narrowing the gap between the fashion industries and
boosting (slowly yet steadily) the countrys economy.

2
YouTube. (2017). [News] 170703 Obama's speech mentioning SHINee, In N Out. [online] Available at:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72a1fqNE9tQ [Accessed 18 Jul. 2017].
3
Antaranews.com. (2016). Indonesian designers to showcase muslim wear in London Fashion Week.
[online] Available at: http://www.antaranews.com/en/news/103078/indonesian-designers-to-showcase-
muslim-wear-in-london-fashion-week [Accessed 18 Jul. 2017].
4
Luvaas, B. (2016). Urban Fieldnotes: October 2016. [online] Urbanfieldnotes.com. Available at:
http://www.urbanfieldnotes.com/2016/10/ [Accessed 18 Jul. 2017].
Street style is also a wildly anticipated aspect of Fashion Week, giving the opportunity for high
profiles and the mundane alike to dress up with flair in hopes to be noticed by the flashing lights.
Unfortunately, JFW does not have a record of being as big a cool-girl capital as other Fashion
Weeks, but there is solid evidence of Jakartan street culture emerging with a specific identity of
its own. It does, however, lack a certain originality and excitement, but that cant really be
helped when the citys climate is considered. The sweat and humidity isnt ideal for attendees
who long to playfully layer a bunch of fabric on their frames, in fear of mid-day discomfort.
Embellished boots and hefty bags are desired but often at times, practicality is prioritized for the
sake of getting through a day without any apparel mishaps - which is the last thing that should be
witnessed at a Fashion Week. Of course, that doesnt mean dressing expressively in a tropical
climate is an absurd feat, it simply means layering is not as abundant as it is at other events.
Jakartas street wear can be regarded as more practical and relaxed, yet styled with a sense of
formality and elegance that feels no need to exaggerate any proportions or prints. I particularly
admire how some garments are loose-fitted with a balance between smart and casual. Despite the
effort, this emerging style is not yet at a stage as cohesive as that of Korean street style, but some
say that the Korean culture depends excessively on trends anyway, and that deviation in a
community is not a crime.

One fashion week I have attended is London Fashion Week (LFW). As a student, I volunteered
to be a dresser and back-stage staff at On | Off, a non-profit, charity based event that showcases
freshly discovered talent created by Lee Lapthorne. Although it was not precisely the glamorous
LFW that I had hoped for, I experienced the atmosphere first-hand and helped in the setting up of
exhibitions. Listening to the buzzing discussions of ideas and possibilities hidden from the public
eye was such a thrill that it ignited further desire to bring the city of my education and the city of
my identity together. I have a child-like dream to be welcomed to both JFW and LFW after I
earn my degree, but until then, I will continue to envision a more united industry and an elevated
platform for Indonesia.